World Country Guide

Granitic Islands

Surrounded by coral reefs, this is the largest of the islands and hosts the international airport, the port and capital (Victoria), the majority of the population (90 per cent) and most of the hotels. It is an island of powdery white sands (there are almost 70 beaches on Mah alone) and lush vegetation, rising through plantations of coconut palms and cinnamon to forested peaks that afford unparalleled views of neighbouring islands. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats from Victoria to nearby St Anne Marine National Park, which encloses the islands of St Anne, Beacon (classified as a nature reserve), Cerf (offering accommodation in chalets and renowned for Creole food), Long (closed to the public), Round (reputed for its tuna steaks) and Moyenne (privately owned, but open to visiting tourists); or by coach, taking in such attractions as the market, the Botanical Gardens (with coco-de-mer, giant tortoises and orchids), and a replica of London’s Vauxhall Bridge Tower in Victoria, before setting off around the island to visit colonial-style mansions in graceful decline, old plantations of cinnamon and vanilla, and everywhere the greenest of vibrant green jungles. Tourists may also visit the Morne Seychellois National Park, occupying the highest part of the island. The National Museum in Victoria celebrates Seychellois history, folklore and music, and has particularly fine displays depicting the history of spice cultivation.
The other Granitic Islands, 41 of them, are all located within 65km (40 miles) of Mah. Some of the more notable islands are described below.
PRASLIN: The second-largest island is two to three hours by boat or 15 minutes by air (25 scheduled flights per day) from Mah. It is famous for the Valle de Mai, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, which contains the double-nutted coco-de-mer palm. Regular excursions are available to smaller islands such as Aride, Cousin, Curieuse and La Digue.
LA DIGUE: Just over three hours by schooner from Mah or 30 minutes from Praslin, this beautiful island is the breeding ground of the rare black paradise flycatcher. There are very few cars and the ox-cart remains the principal means of transport (although bicycles may be hired). There are beautiful old plantation houses, such as Chteau Saint-Cloud, as well as a vanilla plantation, copra factories and superb beaches.
FREGATE: The most easterly and isolated of the granitic islands, Frgate is associated with pirates (Ian Fleming was obsessed with the notion that a pirate’s hoard was buried here). It is also the home of the almost extinct magpie robin. Frgate is 15 minutes by air from Mah.
THRSE: Notable for its rock-pools and tortoise colony. Accessible from Port Glaud by a five-minute boat trip.
COUSIN: Two hours by boat from Mah, Cousin was bought (in 1968) by the International Council for Bird Protection, which operates it as a nature reserve. Amongst the rare bird species thus protected are the brush warbler, the Seychelles toc-toc and the fairy tern. The best time to visit is April or May, when 1.25 million birds nest on the island. All visits to the island must be made as part of an organised tour. Local rangers act as guides; a full tour of the island takes between one and two hours. Local operators can arrange these trips, usually in conjunction with visits to other islands.
ARIDE: Two hours from Mah, Aride is the most northerly of the granitic islands. Home to vast colonies of seabirds, in 1973 it was bought by Christopher Cadbury, President of the Royal Society for Nature Conservation. It is open to visitors from October to the end of April.
CURIEUSE: Approximately 3km (2 miles) long, Curieuse is covered by lush vegetation and huge takamaka trees. It has been designated a reserve for giant tortoises (imported from Aldabra). Day trips may be arranged from Praslin.
SILHOUETTE: Thought to have been home to one of the Indian Ocean’s most notorious pirates, Hodoul, this island may be seen from Beau Vallon Beach on Mah. It has a population of about 200. Sights include an old plantation house of traditional Seychellois timber construction.