World Country Guide

South Island

To the north of the South Island, the sheltered waterways of the lush and green region known as Marlborough Sounds attract numerous boating, kayaking, sailing and fishing enthusiasts. The Marlborough province is well known for its wine and food, with world-class, new-world wineries such as Cloudy Bay, Le Brun, Fromm, Highfield, Hunters and Montana to name but a few. The best wines from this area tend to be white, sharp Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Nearby, Nelson is a sunny and busy small city on the coast, where visitors will find pretty gardens, spectacular beaches and a growing arts community. Besides being an interesting place for art and culture lovers, the city is a good starting point for excursions to the three national parks in the vicinity. The UNESCO-listed Abel Tasman National Park has a rocky coastline, long golden, crescent-shaped beaches, crystal clear water, a seal colony, an abundance of bird life and a fine coastal track – the Abel Tasman Track (three to four days). Nelson Lakes National Park, also on the UNESCO World Heritage list, offers skiing and snowboarding during winter and fishing or sub-alpine walking tracks during the summer. The Kahurangi National Park, another UNESCO World Heritage area, has a selection of walking tracks that offer an extraordinary range of scenery from mountains and karst tablelands to dramatic black-sand beaches on the west coast. The most famous of these is the tough Heaphy Track (four days). The Kaikoura coast, further south, is a world-famous conservation area, sitting opposite a deep water trench full of marine life, and is renowned for boat rides at close quarters with various species of whale and the chance to swim with dolphins.
To the south, on the edge of the flat patchwork quilt of the Canterbury Plains, lies the ‘Garden City’ of Christchurch, the South Island’s largest community. The tree-lined River Avon meanders through the centre of the city, which with its public school, old university buildings (now a fantastic arts centre) and examples of Neo-Gothic architecture is reminiscent of an old English university town. The central square of the city is occupied by a cathedral which provides a useful landmark for tourists either on foot or using the charming historic trams. About 500m (1640ft) from the square is the vast expanse of Hagley Park, on the borders of which are the Old Canterbury University/Arts Centre, the Canterbury Museum, the Robert McDougall Art Gallery, the botanical gardens and Christ’s College. Just a short walk along the river is St Michael and All Angels Church; an unusually beautiful wooden Neo-Gothic building combining French and English styles and containing a mixture of Maori and Catholic elements. For excursions from Christchurch, the nearby Banks Peninsula provides a hilly alternative to the flat city, with a cable car, beaches, boat trips, pods of Hector’s dolphins (unique to New Zealand) and a number of accessible walking tracks. Another alternative is to take a hot air balloon ride and from that vantage point look west across the broad flat plains to the Southern Alps, north to the Kaikoura Ranges and Cook Strait and south down the east coast as far as the historic white-stone city of Oamaru.
From Christchurch, a single rail line and road lead to the Southern Alps, up over Arthur’s Pass and down the other side to the wild west coast. This is the route of a breathtaking rail journey which can be completed, there and back, in one day on the Tranz Alpine Express. The tiny village of Arthur’s Pass is a good starting point for climbing, canyoning and trekking trips to the UNESCO-listed Arthur’s Pass National Park nearby. The Alps themselves, which can be accessed by five main roads from the east coast, are the spine of the South Island pushed up by plate movement in the earth’s crust. They are larger than the similarly named mountain range in Europe and the spectacular scenery of snowy peaks and glaciers contains unique flora and fauna. The area is dominated by the mighty sagging-tent peak of Mount Cook (3754m/12,313ft), also known by the Maori name Aoraki (cloud piercer). Mount Cook National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage area and contains more than 20 peaks over 3000m (9840ft). Sliding down from one side of Mount Cook is the spectacular Tasman Glacier, one of the longest outside the Himalayas. All types of skiing and snowboarding are available along the Alps with many uncrowded ski fields, including heli-skiing, while around Mount Cook there are a number of stunning lone and guided walking and climbing trips of one to five days.
At the foot of the Southern Alps’ western slopes, the thin strip that is the West Coast is one of New Zealand’s wildest untouched natural areas. The coast gets about 4m (13ft) of rain a year, and is a sparsely populated region with a dramatic mountain and native forest landscape, with pristine bush-fringed lakes, which provides a home to the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. It is possible to take guided ‘ice walks’ on the glaciers or enjoy the myriad wilderness walking tracks that snake in and out of the forests, round the river valleys and gorges, and into the foothills of the Alps. It is also worth visiting the small communities of Greymouth and Hokitika where you can purchase carved greenstone, called pounamu by the Maori, who use it for decoration and to make weapons. This beautiful, green, hard nephrite jade carved in a traditional shape (each shape carries its own meaning and story) provides the perfect souvenir of a trip to the ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’.
To the southwest of the South Island is Fiordland, listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Area, which offers a huge range of walking tracks in the wilderness consisting of numerous lakes, mountains, native forest and a pristine coast. Many scenes from the blockbuster film trilogy The Lord of the Rings were filmed in different areas of Fiordland. Nestling beside Lake Wakatipu at the foot of the Remarkables Range, Queenstown is known as New Zealand’s ‘adventure capital’ where tourists can bungy, paraglide, parachute and jet boat (in narrow gorges) until weak at the knees. There are also several world-class walking tracks running out from Glenorchy just along the lake shore, including the Caples, Greenstone Tracks and Routeburn (all four to five days). Only 100km (60 miles) or so away is Te Anau, on the shores of the gorgeous Lake Manapouri, where many more walking trails (from one to six days) wind into the bush, over the saddles and around the fjords, mountains and forests including the famous Milford Walking Track (four to five days). From Te Anau travelling north, a beautiful scenic road leads to Milford Sound (wrongly named a sound when in fact it is a fjord). Tourist boats carry people out to the sea along the narrow, high-walled, glacially-scooped fjord where Fiordland crested penguins, seals and sometimes whales and dolphins take advantage of the abundance of fish due to the unusual conditions. In the fjord, a layer of freshwater, from the mountains, lays on top of the salt water from the ocean refracting light and creating a mini ecosystem teeming with marine life. For those interested in an even more deserted wilderness experience, there are kayak and boat trips into the adjoining Doubtful Sound.
The green and fertile province of Southland at the bottom of the South Island is home to the cities of Invercargill and Dunedin (which is Gaelic for Edinburgh), both of which have strong Scottish roots and retain a distinctive Celtic flavour. In Dunedin, this is perhaps best reflected by the city’s streets bearing the same names as those of Edinburgh, and the presence of Wilson’s Whisky Distillery (reputedly the world’s southernmost distillery) and the Emmerson’s and Speights breweries. Unlike Edinburgh, Dunedin also has the Otago Peninsula, a glorious natural thumb poking out into the Pacific, where it is possible to see rare yellow-eyed penguins (Maori name hoihoi, meaning noise maker), enormous yet graceful royal albatross, and basking on the rocks around the peninsula – fur seals. Invercargill’s Sub-Antarctic Audio Visual and Gallery is a wonderful museum containing, among other interesting exhibits, a number of live tuatara, New Zealand’s very rare and prehistoric lizard, while nearby is Bluff, home of the famous ‘Bluff oysters’, a delicacy that should not be missed. Between Invercargill and Dunedin is the Catlins Forest Park, with its wild beaches, pods of Hector’s Dolphins and the only mainland colony of Hooker sea lions.
Across the Foveaux Strait, New Zealand’s third-largest island, Stewart Island, has few inhabitants and can be reached by plane (travel time – 20 minutes), helicopter, or boat ride aboard a motor catamaran from Bluff. The island has various attractions, including a rare chance to see the endangered kiwi (New Zealand’s national symbol) in the wild. The birds feed in the evenings around Mason’s Beach, accessible by plane, or by water taxi to Patterson’s Inlet, followed by a delightful four-hour walk. Another draw card is Ulva Island, a predator-free, offshore expanse of bush and beautiful beaches where curious native birds come down to the foreshore to watch tourists clambering off the water taxi.