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Food & Drink
According to Georgian legend, when God was distributing land among the peoples of the world, the Georgians were so busy eating and drinking that they lost their place in the queue and there was no land left for them. But when they invited God to join the party, he enjoyed himself so immensely he gave them all the choicest bits of land he had been saving for himself. Georgians pride themselves, with some justification, on being the bons viveurs of the former Soviet Union, and their culinary tradition has survived better than most the dead hand of Soviet mass-catering. The cuisine makes extensive use of walnuts, which are used to thicken soups and sauces (anything including the word satsivi will be served in a rich sauce flavoured with herbs, garlic, walnuts and egg). Walnuts also feature as desserts, coated in caramelised sugar (gozinaki), or in churchkhela, when they are threaded on string then dipped in thickened, sweetened grape juice which is subsequently dried into chewy, flavoursome ‘candles’. There is less emphasis on lamb to the exclusion of other kinds of meat than in other parts of the Caucasus. Roast suckling pig is often served, and beef and chicken are grilled or casseroled in various sauces, one of the commonest forms being chakhokhbili, a stew involving herbs, tomatoes and paprika. Meals usually start with an array of hot and cold dishes which may include spicy grilled liver and other offal, lobio (a bean and walnut salad), marinated aubergines, pkhali (made from young spinach leaves pounded together with spices), khachapuri (consisting of layers of flat bread alternated with melting cheese), and assorted fresh and pickled vegetables and cured meat (basturma). Cafes, restaurants and street-food traditions are all better established in Georgia than in many of the other former Soviet republics, and the markets are full of locally grown fruit and vegetables. Privately run restaurants, cafes and bars, which began to thrive during the Gorbachev period, were badly hit by the post-independence breakdown of civil order, but in recent times have begun to bounce back. The future looks bright.
Both red and white wine is produced in Georgia. Kindzmareuli, a fruity, red wine, is reputed to have been Stalin’s favourite tipple. Akhasheni and Teliani are two of the commoner red wines, fruity and dry respectively. Tsinandali is a dry white wine, as is Gurdzhaani.

Nightlife
Nightlife in the republic is to be found primarily in international hotels. The Georgian State Dancers are highly praised but only occasionally to be glimpsed in Tbilisi, being almost constantly on tour. The Rustaveli Georgian Drama Theatre also has a good reputation and is particularly renowned for its Shakespeare productions.

Shopping
Georgian ceramics, embroidery and jewellery are all distinctive, and may be bought in art salons or special tourist shops. Visitors may also develop a liking for locally produced wines and brandies. Antiques such as rugs and icons attract a heavy export duty and must be licensed for export by the Ministry of Culture. Goods acquired in markets or from private individuals will not come with an export licence, whereas official tourist shops usually take responsibility for certification.

Special Events
It is traditional in Georgia to mark the anniversaries of the founding of cities and towns. For a complete list, consult the Embassy of Georgia (see Contact Addresses section). The following is a special event celebrated annually in Georgia:
Oct 30 Tbilisoba, the largest annual celebration in Georgia, commemorating the founding of Tbilisi.

Social Conventions
Georgians pride themselves on their reputation for gregariousness and hospitality. Visitors sitting in restaurants are likely to be offered drinks by complete strangers. They will then be invited to raise (and empty) their glasses in response to an endless string of elaborate toasts, preferably interpolating a few suitably enthusiastic toasts of their own into the sequence. Smoking is widespread. Visitors may also be entertained in private homes. On such occasions, gifts such as chocolates, flowers or alcohol are well received. On social occasions foreign women will find themselves the object of immense flattery. Those finding such attentions oppressive should avoid giving any hint of encouragement. Appropriate clothing should be worn when entering a church; visitors should ensure they are not wearing shorts and women should cover their heads. Visitors should also be aware that street crime is far from uncommon. Anyone travelling in the republic should be cautious when venturing out after dark, carry as few valuables as possible, and beware of the risk of being robbed and possibly attacked. Tipping: For service in restaurants, cafes or taxis, the bill is usually rounded up.