World City Guide

Mini Guide of Zurich

City Overview

Synonymous with international banking, Zurich (Zrich or, more familiarly, Zri) has a financial and cultural importance that belies its modest size. Although the largest city in Switzerland, Zurich aptly promotes itself as the ‘little big city’ and has a historic centre compact enough to be explored on foot.

Zurich is located at the centre of the Zurich canton, on Switzerland’s central plain, with the elevation rising towards the south and the Alps. Positioned at the northern tip of the Zrichsee (Lake Zurich), lakeside promenades and expensive houses are prominent and can be spotted along both shores. The city’s most familiar sites are, without a doubt, the Fraumnster and Grossmnster churches, which solemnly face each other across the River Limmat. The Old Town spans this river, and some of the most interesting lanes and buildings are clustered along its banks. The nearby Lindenhof was once the site of a Roman customs post and is a good vantage point. Surrounding the Old Town, the Kreis (districts) of Zurich are arranged clockwise around the city centre, with the numbers corresponding to the last digit in the postcode. In summer, the view of the city is beautiful, with the lake reflecting the mountains and clear blue sky. The winter snowfalls bring a magic of their own.

Zurich dates its origins from 15BC, when the Roman customs post of Turicum was founded. By the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city. It was at the centre of the Swiss religious Reformation in the 16th century, under the leadership of Huldrych Zwingli. His motto ‘pray and work’ was to have a profound effect on this diligent city, which, by the 19th century, had grown into the commercial and financial centre of Switzerland. The modern Zurich is a city of bankers in a country of banks. This concentration of wealth can most readily be seen along the Bahnhofstrasse, flanked by lime trees. All the major banks have a presence here, notably at the Paradeplatz, where elegant shops and designer boutiques line the street, interspersed with trendy bars and attractive cafs, stretching from the Hauptbahnhof right down to Lake Zurich.

Other riches lie in the city’s excellent universities – Zurich is a powerhouse for research, with public-private partnerships leading to innovations both in design and the high-tech sector. The exceptional infrastructure and delightful atmosphere have ensured Zurich’s role as a major conference and incentive destination. The city also has a strong cultural presence – over 30 museums, art galleries, auction houses, the opera, orchestras and the Schauspielhaus theatre, as well as a number of performance spaces that encourage contemporary artists in all media.

The citizens enjoy a high standard of living, and this is evident in the many fashionable and enjoyable bars, cafs and restaurants that fill the Old Town. The ambience is heightened by the large swathes on either side of the River Limmat that are pedestrian-only areas. For those who find the comfortable burgher lifestyle a little too tame, there are always alternative places to seek out. This is, after all, the city that saw the birth of the artistic movement of Dadaism – the antithesis of conformity.

Getting There By Air

Zrich-Kloten (ZRH)
Tel: (043) 816 2211 or (0900) 300 313 (flight information).
E-mail: info@unique.ch
Website: www.zurich-airport.com or www.unique.ch

The airport, situated 11km (7 miles) northeast of the city centre, has two terminals and ranks ninth among Europe’s largest airports. Flights arrive from 197 cities in 82 countries on one of 75 scheduled or 49 chartered airlines.

Major airlines: In the aftermath of the events of 11 September 2001, Swissair ceased trading as of 31 March 2002. Assets were transferred to Crossair, the associated regional carrier, which changed its name to SWISS (tel: (084) 885 2000; website: www.swiss.com). Other airlines serving Zrich-Kloten include Air Canada, Air France, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Delta Air Lines, easyJet, Helvetic Airways, JAL Japan Airlines, Lufthansa and South African Airways.

Approximate flight times to Zurich: From London is 1 hour 30 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 15 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include showers, resting/sleeping areas, childcare, dental and medical centres, duty-free and other shops, restaurants, bars and cafs. The airport offers a number of amenities and good accessibility for disabled passengers. With the Fly-Rail Baggage service, passengers can check their bags in at the rail station up to 24-hours before their flight. Likewise, arriving passengers can check their bags from the originating airport straight through to a Swiss railway station. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National and Sixt.

Business facilities: The Airport Conference Centre (tel: (043) 816 3422), offering 32 rooms of various sizes and four in the recently upgraded ancient tower, is located in the office complex of terminal A. The centre provides full facilities including fax, copiers and wireless LAN; a full list of equipment for hire is on the website. Every room has an overhead projector, flipchart and direct telephone connection.

Transport to the city: Zurich Transport Federation, Zrcher Verkehrsverbund – ZVV (tel: (0848) 988 988; website: www.zvv.ch) regional S-Bahn trains (S2) run from beneath the airport to the city centre every 10-15 minutes (journey time – 10 minutes). There are scheduled services to other Swiss destinations on InterCity trains. Regional Verkehrsbetriebe Zrich – VBZ (tel: (01) 434 4111; website: www.vbz.ch) buses and night buses serve a large area of Switzerland. Many hotels near the airport and in the city offer a courtesy bus service. Taxis are readily available in front of both arrival halls (journey time – 15-30 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Zurich is located at the mouth of the River Limmat, where it spills into the northern end of Lake Zurich. The main ferry terminal is at Enge on the western shore of Lake Zurich, but it is easier to board at Brkliplatz..

Ferry services: Zrichsee-Schifffahrtsgesellschaft, Mythenquai 333 (tel: (01) 487 1333; fax: (01) 487 1320; e-mail: ahoi@zsg.ch; website: www.zsg.ch), operates regular services from Rapperswil and Schmerikon, at the far end of the lake.

Transport to the city: Trams 2, 5, 8, 9 or 11 and buses 161 or 165 all serve Brkliplatz. For Enge, tram 5 from Bellevueplatz or Bahnhof Zurich-Enge stops at the Arboretum adjacent to the harbour.

Getting There By Road

Swiss road designations follow the normal European systems (E, A and B). Swiss roads are generally good, although mountain routes can be narrow and winding. Chains and/or snow tyres may be required in winter, and after a heavy snowfall some routes may be closed altogether. There is a telephone number for information on national road conditions (tel: 163). Cars drive on the right. The maximum speed limits are 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on main roads, and 50kph (31mph) in towns. On minor roads, traffic going up a mountain has priority, except postal buses when a yellow posthorn on a blue background sign is displayed (a line through this same sign cancels this). Road numbers on green signs indicate toll expressways, where a toll vignette must be displayed. An annual road tax is levied – motorists should purchase a vignette (sticker) at border points or from Switzerland Tourism before departure. Stickers are valid for one calendar year. The legal driving age is 18 and a national driving licence is sufficient documentation, although Green Card insurance is recommended. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%.

There are two motoring associations in Switzerland. These are Touring Club Suisse – TCS (tel: (01) 286 8616; website: www.tcs.ch) and Automobil Club der Schweiz – ACS (tel: (01) 387 7500; website: www.acs.ch).

Emergency breakdown service:
TCS/ACS 140.

Routes to the city: The A1 passes through Zurich’s outskirts on its way from Geneva and Berne to Winterthur and St Gall. The A3 skirts the southwest shore of Lake Zurich from Lucerne (via the A4), Chur and Sargans. The A136 to Innsbruck and on to the E17 north takes drivers to Munich, while the E17 south takes one directly to Zurich from Basle. The A51 connects Zurich with the airport

Approximate driving times to Zurich: From Basel – 1 hour; Geneva – 3 hours; and Munich – 3 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Alsa and Eggmann (tel: (0900) 573 747; website: www.alsa-eggmann.ch), operates in conjunction with Eurolines (website: www.eurolines.com) to provide services throughout Europe. There are regular Postauto bus services, run by Swiss Post (tel: (01) 317 2700; website: www.post.ch), to much of rural Switzerland and excursions from major towns and cities. Zurich-Sihlquai station, located near the Hauptbahnhof on Bahnhofplatz, serves all bus companies.

Getting There By Rail

Swiss Federal Railways, Schweizerische Bundesbahnen – SBB (website: www.sbb.ch) operates the majority of services on Switzerland’s rail system. On some routes there are specialised cars for wheelchair and rail is often the preferred mode of domestic travel. SBB in Zurich is also known as Zri Rollt. Further information is available from national rail enquiries (tel: (0900) 300 300).

The busy Hauptbahnhof (tel: (0512) 224 250), Zurich’s main railway station, dates from 1871 and is located on Bahnhofplatz. In addition to the Tourist Information Office, it offers a range of shops and very good restaurants, as well as left luggage, luggage transport, banking, postal and telecommunication facilities.

Rail services: Trains run frequently from major Swiss centres. High speed InterCityExpress (ICE) services operate from Stuttgart (journey time – 2 hours 50 minutes), Karlsruhe (journey time – 2 hours 55 minutes), Frankfurt (journey time – 4 hours), Hanover (journey time – 6 hours 20 minutes) and Hamburg (journey time – 7 hours 35 minutes). CityNightLine (website: www.citynightline.ch) trains depart from Hamburg, Dresden, Berlin and Amsterdam, arriving in Zurich in the morning. A ‘hotel’ high quality sleeper service also links Zurich with Barcelona (journey time – 13 hours 10 minutes). Cisalpino tilting trains connect Zurich with Milan (journey time – 3 hours 40 minutes). There are day and overnight trains to and from Rome (journey time 9 hours 45 minutes) and Venice (journey time – 7 hours 45 minutes), Vienna (journey time – 9 hours) and Budapest (journey time – 12 hours 50 minutes).

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Verkehrsbetriebe Zrich – VBZ (tel: (01) 434 4111; website: www.vbz.ch), operates the highly efficient and easy-to-use tram and bus network (known as Zri Linie) within the city. The Zrcher Verkehrsverbund – ZVV (website: www.zvv.ch), operates services within the canton as a whole, including all trains.

Tickets for all forms of transit must be purchased at ticket machines (located at tram stops, bus stops and train stations) and validated before boarding. Tickets cannot be bought on trams or buses – there is a fine for anyone travelling without a ticket. The websites explain in detail how to use the automatic ticket machines.

Zurich canton operates on a zone system. A single adult fare for one to two zones is valid for one hour (including transfers). A cheaper short hop (known as a ‘Kurzstrecke’) is available for five or fewer stops. First-class seating is available on S-Bahn trains, for a higher fare. Night buses depart from Bellevue on Friday and Saturday.

It is much more simple and better value to buy a day pass (Tageskarte), good for 24 hours of unlimited travel and available from ticket machines and the Tourist Information Office. The 24-hour and 72-hour ZrichCARD include all travel in the seven central zones, including trips to and from the airport. The 9-Uhr-Tagespass is ideal for daytrips out into the surrounding region, and is valid for all journeys after 0900 for one day.

Ferries also form part of Zurich’s public transport network. The city is located at the mouth of the River Limmat, where it spills into the northern end of Lake Zurich. The main ferry terminal is at Enge – on the western shore of Lake Zurich – but it is easier to board at Brkliplatz. Ferries go to many different towns and villages around Lake Zurich and operate daily 0900-1900. Zrichsee-Schifffahrtsgesellschaft (tel: (01) 487 1333; website: www.zsg.ch), operates regular services to Rapperswil and Schmerikon, at the far end of the lake. Trams 2, 5, 8, 9 or 11 and buses 161 or 165 all serve Brkliplatz. For Enge, tram 5 from Bellevueplatz or Bahnhof Zurich-Enge stops at the Arboretum adjacent to the harbour. Tickets can be bought at the ferry terminal.

Taxis
Taxis may be found at taxi ranks or hailed on the street, as well as ordered by phone from Taxi-Zentrale Zrich (tel: (01) 272 4444) or from the taxi firms: Zri Taxi (tel: (01) 222 2222), Taxi 444 (tel: (01) 444 4444), Alpha Taxi (tel: (01) 777 7777) or Taxi Jung (tel: (01) 271 1188). For wheelchair-friendly taxis, telephone Zurich Disabled Transport (tel: (01) 461 3866). Tipping is not an issue, seeing as a compulsory service charge of 15% is included in the fare, although it is customary to tip SFr2 per bag for luggage handling.

Limousines
Transunix (tel: (01) 315 6030; website: www.transunix.ch) offer Mercedes E-class and Mercedes stretch limousines. Drivers are also available. People carriers, armoured cars, minibuses and coaches can also be hired.

Driving in the City
Motorways almost go right into the city centre, making it easy to get to destinations in Zurich. However, parking in the city can be difficult. There is a printed parking guide (including locations of car parks and price of metres), which is published by the police and available from the Tourist Information Office. It is also displayed in car parks. Car parks are located on Lavaterstrasse, Beethovenstrasse, Lowenstrasse, Gessner-Allee and Dufourstrasse.

Car Hire
Zurich is well represented by the major car hire firms, including Alamo/National (tel: (043) 816 4451; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (044) 296 8787; website: www.avis.ch), Budget (tel: (01) 450 7535; website: www.budget.com), Europcar (tel: (01) 271 5656; website: www.europcar.ch), Hertz (tel: (044) 298 8484; website: www.hertz.ch) and Sixt/Eurodollar (tel: (01) 445 9090; website: www.e-sixt.de). The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years and there is an additional charge for drivers under 25 years. Visitors wishing to hire a car must have held a category B driving licence for at least one year. Those hiring a car should check if basic insurance is included in the price.

Bicycle Hire
Rent-A-Bike (tel: (061) 726 9210; website: www.rent-a-bike.ch), from Zri Rollt (see Public Transport), offers free bicycles for use in the city on payment of a deposit and presentation of a valid ID. Bicycles are available from Gate 18 at the Hauptbahnhof (tel: (0512) 222 904), all year round, as well as from railway stations at Altstatten, Enge, Oelikon and Stadelhofen and near the Globus department store on Usteristrasse, from May to October.

Business

Business Etiquette
It is always important to address Swiss colleagues by their surnames (including any academic or honorary titles) and to use the polite Sie form, rather than the informal du, until familiarity has been established. Punctuality is important and business cards are widely used. Do not be surprised by Zrchers’ apparent brusqueness – they believe in speaking the truth, even if it is not pleasant. If invited to a Zrcher’s home, guests should bring a small gift of flowers (these should be unwrapped) or chocolates. Business attire tends to be somewhat casual but is more conservative in financial institutions where business suits should definitely be worn. Business hours are typically Monday to Friday 0800-1200 and 1400-1700.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Most of Zurich’s sights lie within the compact area on either side of the River Limmat, between the Hauptbahnhof and Lake Zurich. The churches and burgher houses of the Old Town are clustered here, as are the elegant shops along Bahnhofstrasse. The Baroque Rathaus (Town Hall) and Zurich’s most impressive churches – the Grossmnster, Fraumnster and the city’s oldest, St Peterskirche (its clock face is the largest in Europe) – all lie within a short distance of the River Limmat, near to where it opens onto the lake.

Tourist Information
Zrich Tourismus
Bahnhofbrcke 1 (in the Hauptbahnhof)
Tel: (01) 215 4000. Fax: (01) 215 4044.
E-mail: information@zuerich.com
Website: www.zuerich.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2030, Sun 0830-1830 (May-Oct); Mon-Sat 0830-1900, Sun 0900-1830 (Nov-Apr).

Passes
The ZurichCARD (SFr15 for 24 hours, SFr30 for 72 hours) allows unlimited travel, free admission to over 40 museums, reduced admission to the zoo, complimentary welcome drink at over 20 restaurants and a half-price guided stroll in the old town. Cards are available at the train stations and many hotels.

Key Attractions

Grossmnster
The twin towers of this attractive cathedral (the largest in Zurich and the city’s symbol) face onto the River Limmat and are best seen from Rathausbrcke. Originally endowed by Charlemagne, parts of this minster date back to the 11th and 13th centuries, notably the Crypt, which is the largest of its kind in Switzerland. Recent archaeological discoveries suggest the existence of a Roman cemetery underneath the church. There are remains of a Romanesque cloister, 12th-century statuary and stained glass in the choir by Augusto Giacometti (Alberto’s cousin). The Karlstrum tower has 187 steps; there is no lift.

Zwingliplatz
Tel: (01) 252 5949.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1200-1800 (15 Mar-31 Oct); daily 1000-1700 (1 Nov-15 Mar).
Admission free (charge for tower).

Fraumnster
Although this beautiful church dates from the ninth century (when it was a Benedictine abbey), it is often the five 20th-century stained-glass windows in the choir by Marc Chagall (1970) that attract visitors. These glass works of art are best seen in the morning light. The church itself was begun in the 12th century, although the undercroft contains the original abbey crypt. The Fraumnster spire is an elegant and notable landmark dating from 1732. The rest of the church is predominantly Gothic, although the choir is Romanesque. The site was originally endowed by Charlemagne’s grandson, the German king Ludwig, in 853 and later became the church of the Zurich noblewomen’s convent. The stained glass windows in the north transept are by Alberto Giacometti’s cousin, Augusto.

Mnsterhof
Tel: (01) 211 4100.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200 and 1400-1700 (Mar-Apr); daily 0900-1230 and 1400-1800 (May-Sep); daily 1000-1230, 1400-1700 (Oct); Mon-Sat 1000-1200, 1400-1600 (Nov-Feb).
Admission free.

Kunsthaus Zrich (Zurich Art Gallery)
This is the city’s most important art gallery, boasting a collection of paintings and sculptures by Swiss and international masters, covering most periods from medieval times but predominately from the 19th and 20th centuries. Two of Monet’s Water Lilies paintings and the largest collection of Eduard Munch’s works outside Norway can be found here, as well as many works by Fssli and Hodler and important works by Expressionists like Kokoschka, Bechmann and Corinth. There are also good collections of photography, the Dadaists and Alberto Giacometti, as well as an important library. Tours are available in English if reserved beforehand. The gallery is currently being renovated, and is due to reopen in 2005.

Heimplatz 1
Tel: (01) 253 8484.
Website: www.kunsthaus.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 1000-2100, Fri-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge.

Schweizerisches Landesmuseum
(Swiss National Museum)
The Swiss National Museum lies on a landscaped triangle between the Hauptbahnhof and the Limmat and Sihl rivers, and has fulfilled the role of the nation’s attic for over a century. Special exhibits in this castle-like museum supplement the permanent display of items related to Switzerland and Swiss culture. These include not only paintings and sculpture but also weapons, flags, watches, clocks, tools, toys and prehistoric objects.

Museumstrasse 2
Tel: (01) 218 6511 or 65.
Website: www.musee-suisse.ch or www.slmnet.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.

Zunfthaus zur Meisen (‘zur Meisen’ Guild Hall)
The ‘zur Meisen’ Guild Hall, opposite the Fraumnster, has exhibits of 18th-century Swiss pottery and china. The elegant Rococo galleries are an appropriate setting for the beautifully decorated porcelain figurines that were produced in Kilchberg-Schooren, Zurich and other porcelain and pottery factories. The building itself, built in 1757, expresses a Baroque aesthetic and is considered to be the most beautiful of all the Zrich guild houses.

Mnsterhof 20
Tel: (01) 221 2807.
Website: www.musee-suisse.ch or www.slmnet.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1030-1700.
Admission charge.

Museum Rietberg
The collection of the Rietberg Museum of Non-European Art is housed within three buildings. Two of these, dating from the 1850s, are set within the Rieterpark. The Villa Wesendonck has special exhibitions in addition to its collection of Indian, Chinese and African art (the core of which is the sculpture collection donated by Baron Eduard von der Heydt), while the Park-Villa Rieter has paintings from China, Japan and India. The third building, Haus zum Kiel, Hirschengraben 20, has rotating exhibitions. There are occasional world music concerts in the Park-Villa Rieter.

Villa Wesendonck and Park-Villa Rieter
Gablerstrasse 15
Tel: (01) 206 3131.
Website: www.rietberg.ch
Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2000 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar).
Admission charge.

Haus zum Kiel
Hirschengraben 20
Tel: (01) 261 9652.
Website: www.rietberg.ch
Opening hours: Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2000 (Apr-Sep); Tues-Sun 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar).
Admission charge.

Migros Museum fr Gegenwartskunst
(Museum of Contemporary Art)
Devoted to collecting and exhibiting contemporary art, especially from the 1990s, the Museum of Contemporary Art features a core collection of works of the Migros Co-operative Society in the open-concept exhibition space. These create a dialogue with the rotating exhibitions and special installations. There are both solo and group exhibitions.

Limmatstrasse 270
Tel: (01) 277 2050.
Website: www.migrosmuseum.ch
Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri 1200-1800, Thurs 1200-2000, Sat and Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Zoo Zrich
The open, park-like enclosures of the Zurich zoo house some 1,500 animals from points near and far, in areas that replicate the animals’ natural environments. The zoo’s animals draw crowds during feeding times (details are available on the website). A complex duplicates Madagascar’s Masoala rainforest. There are several good restaurants at the zoo, including the Altes Klsterli, Siesta and Outpost.

Zrichbergstrasse 221
Tel: (044) 254 2505 or (0848) 966 983.
Website: www.zoo.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Mar-Oct); daily 0900-1700 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.

Botanischer Garten
Zurich’s Botanical Gardens make for a wonderful place to get away from it all. Inside are over a million plants that comprise the university’s botanical collection, representing a number of different ecosystems from tropical rainforests to alpine meadow flowers.

Zollikerstrasse 107
Tel: (01) 634 8461.
Website: www.unizh.ch/bguz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0700-1900, Sat and Sun 0800-1800 (Mar-Sep); Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 0800-1700 (Oct-Feb).
Admission free.

Uetliberg (tliberg)
At an elevation of 871m (2,857ft) this is the tallest point in the city, with views over Zurich, the lake and (on a clear day) the Alps. The Uetliberg is part of the Albis ridge. There is a one-and-a-half to two-hour walk to Felsenegg, from where a cable car connects to Adliswil station, which has connections on S-Bahn line S4 to the city. A 24-hour train/cable car pass is available. The SZU Sihltal Zrich Uetliberg Bahn (website: www.szu.ch), S10, goes to the top of the city’s peak (departing from many stations, including the Hauptbahnhof). A restored 1920s electric railway car can also be hired for groups. The hotel and restaurant Uto Kulm is an excellent venue from which to look down upon the city.

Uto Kulm
Tel: (01) 457 6666.
Website: www.uetliberg.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0730-2300.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
There are a number of marked trails in the hills surrounding the city that are ideal for strolling or jogging. The promenade along the lakeside is popular with locals and tourists alike. Zurich Tourism (tel: (01) 215 4000; website: www.zuerich.ch) organises tailored group tours as well as standard two-hour tours of the Old Town. Tours usually depart from in front of the Tourist Information Office, Bahnhofbrcke 1.

Bus Tours
Zurich Tourism (see above) is the best source for a variety of bus tours of the city, lasting two to two and a half hours and costing SFr32-45. Many involve a detour into the countryside. Some also include a cable car or boat trip. Bus tours depart either from in front of the Tourist Information Office or from Zurich-Sihlquai station.

Trolley Tours
Two-hour Classic Trolley tours in old decorated vehicles, which include headphone commentary in eight languages, are also available from April to October, with refreshments provided. The tour departs from Zurich-Sihlquai station. You can preboook via the tourist office (tel: 044 215 4000) and several travel agencies.

Boat Tours
Cruises are offered on Lake Zurich by Zrichsee-Schifffahrtsgesellschaft, Mythenquai 333 (tel: (01) 487 1333; website: www.zsg.ch), departing from Brkliplatz from April to October. Costs vary depending on the length of the cruise and the cost for cruises with drinks and/or food can climb. Reservations are only necessary for those planning to dine onboard (tel: (01) 487 1313, for reservations). A one-hour river cruise is available.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Winterthur: The canton’s second largest city is 25km (15.5 miles) northeast of Zurich and can be reached in just 20 minutes by train from the Hauptbahnhof. There are a number of intriguing things to be seen and experienced in this Swiss city on the River Tss. The Sammlung Oskar Reinhart ‘Am Rmerholz’ (Oskar Reinhart Collection at Rmerholz), Haldenstrasse 95 (tel: (052) 269 2740; website: www.kultur-schweiz.admin.ch/sor) houses important works from European Old Masters and French Impressionists. The collection is open Tue-Sun 1000-1700 (Wed 1000-2000). The Fotomuseum Winterthur, Grzenstrasse 44 (tel: (052) 233 6086; website: www.fotomuseum.ch), has a good series of special exhibits available for viewing on Tue-Sun 1100-1800, and Wed 1100-2000.

Open from Tue-Sun 1000-1700, one of the country’s foremost interactive industrial museums, Technorama der Schweiz, Technoramastrasse 1 (tel: (052) 244 0844; website: www.technorama.ch) is also located in Winterthur. The Winterthur Kunstmuseum, Museumstrasse 52 (tel: (052) 267 5162; website: www.kmw.ch) is open Tue 1000-2000 and Wed-Sun 1000-1700. Visitors can view major 19th and 20th-century art. Tempo-drom und Block, Lagerplatz 17 (tel: (052) 204 0700; website: www.block.ch), Europe’s largest indoor sports park, which includes a 3,000sq metre (10,000sq ft) rollerpark and beach volleyball court, is a five-minute walk from the main train station. The complex is open Mon-Sat 1000-2400 and Sun 1000-2200. Winterthur Tourismus (tel: (052) 267 5151; website: www.stadt-winterthur.ch) is located in the train station and provides further information.

Rapperswil: The beautiful little ‘City of Roses’ has a medieval character dating back to 1229, with romantic lanes and restaurants on the lakeside. It is located on the northern shore of Lake Zurich, approximately 28.5km (18 miles) from Zurich. Zrichsee-Schifffahrtsgesellschaft (see Tours of the City) offers round trips to this little town (tours take approximately two hours). Rapperswil is also accessible from Zurich by S-Bahn S5 or S7 (journey time – 50 minutes). The Tourist Information Office, Fischmarktplatz 1 (tel: (055) 220 5757; website: www.rapperswil.ch) provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Jungfraujoch: From this mountainous location in the Bernese Oberland (often referred to as ‘the top of Europe’) one can see Switzerland’s largest glacier and the spectacular Alpine scenery of this region. The cogwheel mountain train from Lauterbrunnen climbs to the highest railway station in Europe at 3454m (11,333ft), on the Jungfraujoch. A 11-hour bus excursion can be booked through the Tourist Information Office (tel: (01) 215 4000; website: www.zuerich.ch) the last part of the journey is by train. The tour starts at 0830 Wednesday-Sunday from 24 April to the end of October. Alternatively, the train journey from Zurich to Jungfraujoch station, with changes at Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen and Kleine Scheidegg, takes 4 hours and 20 minutes, however, the Alps are always just outside the window.

Sport

The city’s top ice hockey team is ZSC Lions (website: www.zsclions.ch), which usually plays Nationalliga A games at the Hallenstadion. Whilst this stadium is being refurbished, the team has moved temporarily to the nearby Kunsteisbahn Oerlikon, Siewerdtstrasse 80 (tel: (01) 315 4050; website: www.sportamp.ch). ZSC Lions were first in the 2002/2003 season. Football is also popular in Zurich and FC Zrich (website: www.fcz.ch) plays at Stadion Letzigrund, Baslerstrasse 5 (tel: (0848) 800 800), while rival football club Grasshopper-Club Zrich (website: www.gcz.ch) has been playing since 1886 and can be seen at the Stadion Hardturm, Hardturmstrasse 321 (tel: (01) 447 4646).

Tickets to sporting events can be booked through the stadiums and clubs or through TicketCorner (website: www.ticketcorner.com).

Golf: The Dolder Golf Club, Kurhausstrasse 66 (tel: (01) 261 5045; website: www.dolder.ch), is Zrich’s oldest course, having nine holes overlooking the city and lake. For 18 holes, there is the Zrich-Zumikon Golf Club, located in Zumikon, 10km (6 miles) southeast of the city, at Weid 9 (tel: (043) 288 1088; website: www.swissgolfnetwork.ch). Both courses are available Monday to Friday. Players are required to have a registered golf handicap and to reserve in advance.

Skating: As one would expect, skating is very popular in Zrich. The kunsteisbahn (rinks) include Dolder, Adlisbergstrasse 36 (tel: (01) 267 7080; website: www.doldereisbahn.ch), which has a good restaurant and kiosk; Heuried, Wasserschoepfi 71 (tel: (01) 455 5161 or (079) 684 5752; website: www.sportamp.ch); and Kunsteisbahn Oerlikon, Siewerdtstrasse 80 (tel: (01) 315 4050; website: www.sportamp.ch).

Skiing: The Schweizerischer Ski-Verband (SSV), Worbstrasse 52, 3074 Muri bei Bern (tel: (031) 950 6111; website: www.swiss-ski.ch), is the national ski federation. There are ski hills within half an hour of Zurich and a 12km (7 miles) cross-country trail from Uetliburg (see Further Distractions section), however, it is worth the two to two-and-a-half hours (by rail or road) to ski at Klosters (website: www.klosters.ch) and Davos (website: www.davos.ch). Many locals opt for the shorter journey to Engelberg (website: www.engelberg.ch), south of Lucerne, where a one-day rail and ski pass is available.

Swimming and Fitness Centres: The Hallenbads (website: www.badi-info.ch) are public indoor pools with fitness centres including saunas, solariums and massage facilities. Hallenbad City, Sihlstrasse 71 (tel: (01) 219 7722), is the most centrally located. The Hallenbad Oerlikon, Wallisellenstrasse 100 (tel: (01) 315 6777), is more convenient for the Messe and has a good restaurant and bar. Other pools can be found at Altstetten, Bungertwies, Kferburg and Leimbach. Swimming beaches on both shores of Lake Zurich are open from May to September.

Tennis: The Mythenquai courts, Mythenquai 200 (tel: (01) 202 3243), are situated near the beach. Year-round tennis is available at the Lengg courts, Bleulerstrasse 141 (tel: (01) 381 1313; website: www.lengg.ch). Reservations must be made in winter. Other courts in the city are available from Sportaktiv, Mainausstrasse 50 (tel: (01) 388 9999; website: www.sportaktiv.ch).

Shopping

Shopping Zurich makes shopping a pleasure – elegant boutiques, department stores and speciality shops are clustered in the Old Town, interspersed with cafs and bars for those necessary breaks. Most shops are open Monday-Friday 0900-1830 and Saturday 0800-1600. Many, except for the large stores, close for lunch. Late shopping on Thursday is until 2100. By law, shops cannot stay open longer than 2000 on weekdays and 1600 on Saturday. VAT is charged at a rate of 7.6% can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr400 or more.

The most fashionable shopping street is Bahnhofstrasse (website: www.bahnhofstrasse-zuerich.ch), which stretches from the Hauptbahnhof past Paradeplatz to the lake. High-quality Swiss goods and international labels can be found here. More boutiques tucked away to the east – the main streets (Rennweg and Limmatquai) are a good starting point. More alternative (and cheaper) shops are on Langstrasse, to the west of the Hauptbahnhof.

From May to October, on Saturday (0600-1500), Brkliplatz fills with stalls during the weekly flea market (tel: (01) 216 7160). Interesting antiques and hand-made artefacts are sold at Rosenhof in the Old Town, Thursday 1000-2000 and Saturday 1000-1600 (tel: (01) 216 7161; website www.rosenhof.ch).

Uniquely Swiss gifts are fine chocolates, Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery, linen and handmade clocks. Schweizer Heimatwerk, Bahnhofstrasse 2 (website: www.heimatwerk.ch), has a good selection of traditional and modern Swiss design especially wooden folk toys, while Confiserie Sprngli, Bahnhofstrasse 21 (website: www.spruengli.ch), is renowned for its chocolates and is also Zurich’s oldest pastry shop and the first to permit women to drink coffee in public. The shop also serves dozens of salty hors d’oeurves and over 50 chocolates. Their ‘Luzemburgli’ biscuit is patented and only sold here. It is possible to visit the Lindt & Sprgli factory, situated south of Zurich at Seestrasse 204, Kilchberg, Wednesday to Friday. The S-Bahn 1 or 8 from the Haufbahnhof and bus 165 from Brkliplatz go to the factory. The tour includes a museum, a film about chocolate making and a generous gift of chocolates.

Culture

In addition to high-quality museums and galleries, Zurich has one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world and high-calibre chamber and symphony orchestras. Richard Wagner lived in the Villa Wesendonck (now part of the Museum Rietberg). Fuseli, the pre-Romantic painter, also made his home in Zurich, and it was in Zurich that Tristan Tzara and the other Dadaists formulated their ideas in the Cabaret Voltaire on Spiegelgasse in 1916.

There is an online guide to concerts, cinema and theatre (website: www.kulturinfo.ch). Tickets for events are available from Billettzentrale Zrich (BIZZ), Bahnhofstrasse 9 (tel: (01) 221 2283; website: www.bizz-online.ch), as well as at Jecklin, Rmistrasse 30/42 (tel: (01) 253 7777; website: www.jecklin.ch), Musik Hug, Limmatquai 28-30 (tel: (01) 269 4141; website: www.musikhug.ch) and UBS TicketCorner (tel: (0900) 800 800; website: www.ticketcorner.com).

Music: The Opernhaus Zrich, Falkenstrasse 1 (tel: (01) 268 6666; website: www.opernhaus.ch), is the venue for opera and ballet performances. First opened in 1891, its neo-Baroque auditorium and location by the lakeside promenade add to the atmosphere of a romantic evening. The Zurich Chamber Orchestra or Zrcher Kammerorchester (tel: (0848) 848 844; website: www.zko.ch) plays at the Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7 (tel: (01) 206 3434; website: www.tonhalle.ch), from August to June, while the Tonhalle Orchester (website: www.tonhalle.ch), founded in 1868, performs symphonic concerts. The Tonhalle is renowned for its acoustics and has two halls – the larger seats 1455 and the smaller 636. Part of the Kongresshaus Zrich, it was built in 1895 and the concert chamber was inaugurated by Johannes Brahms.

Theatre: The Schauspielhaus Zrich, Rmistrasse 34 (tel: (01) 258 7777; website: www.schauspielhaus.ch), is one of the largest and most important theatres in Switzerland. Some 14 new productions are staged here each year, varying from Shakespeare to Zurich’s own Friedrich Drrenmatt. Built in the late 19th century, the theatre comprises two venues – the 745-seat Grosse Haus and the 130-seat Schauspielhaus-Keller, which stages more alternative and off-beat productions.

Dance: Zurich’s ballet company, the Zrcher Balletts, performs at the Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1 (tel: (01) 268 6666; website: www.opernhaus.ch). Modern and experimental dance can be seen in a number of venues, including the Rote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395 (tel: (01) 481 9143; website: www.rotefabrik.ch).

Film: Films shown in Zurich are almost always in the original language with subtitles. Open-air screenings take place on the lakeside at Zrichhorn in July and August. There are some 50 cinemas in the city, including repertory and arthouse cinemas such as Xenix, Kanzleistrasse 56 (tel: (01) 242 0411; website: www.xenix.ch). There are also a number of multiple screen cinemas showing the latest mainstream films. The ten-screen Cinemax complex, Heinrichstrasse 269 (tel: (022) 273 2222; website: www.cinemax.ch), is the largest.

KinoTel (tel: (0900) 900 999) provides information on screenings.

Cultural Events: The most traditional events on the Zurich calendar are Sechseluten, Zurich’s Spring Festival, on the third Monday of April, and Knabenschiessen, over the first weekend of September. Sechseluten (website: www.sechselaeuten.ch) involves guild members parading in historic costumes and the Bgg (a mock snowman filled with fireworks) being burned to symbolise the end of winter, while the Knabenschiessen festival (website: www.knabenschiessen.ch) is a folk festival featuring a shooting competition for boys, complete with a market, funfair and concerts. The Zrcher Festspiele (website: www.zuercher-festspiele.ch) takes place from mid-June to mid-July, with ballet, opera, theatre and concerts at stages around the city. During the Zri-Fscht every third year (website: www.zuerifaescht.ch), the city of Zurich is transformed into a giant festival site, with the celebrations culminating in an impressive fireworks display over Lake Zurich. The next festival takes place 6-8 July 2007.

Literary Notes: James Joyce worked on Ulysses (1922) in Zurich, at the same time as the Dadaists were creating at the Cabaret Voltaire. Joyce died in Zurich in 1941 and lies buried in Fluntern Cemetery. Strauhof Zrich, Augustinerstrasse 9 (tel: (01) 216 3139; website: www.strauhof.ch), has a library and organises readings of works by Joyce and other modern writers. Thomas Mann lived in the Zurich area before World War II and again in the 1950s – the Thomas Mann Archiv, at the Federal Institute of Technology, Schnberggasse 15 (tel: (01) 632 4045; website: www.tma.ethz.ch), houses his manuscripts, library and study. He died in Zurich in 1955 and is buried in Kilchberg, to the south of the city. The German playwright, Georg Bchner, lived and died at Spiegelgasse 12. Another of Zurich’s literary residents, 19th-century poet Gottfried Keller is best known for his 1876 novella, Romeo und Julia auf dem Dorfe (Romeo and Juliet in the Village), which transposes Shakespeare’s famous tragedy to a small Swiss village. The playwrights Max Frisch, author of I’m Not Stiller (1958), and Friedrich Drrenmatt, who penned The Visit (1955), are yet more famous literary Zrchers.

Nightlife

Nightlife
The most popular place in Zurich for nightlife is the Old Town, on the left bank of the River Limmat, with many bars and cafs tucked away on the side streets such as Niederdorfstrasse and Oberdorfstrasse. New bars and clubs keep opening up in the city, especially to the west of the Hauptbahnhof in the fourth and fifth districts, around Langstrasse and Escher-Wyss-Platz. The majority of bars and clubs close around 0200 but there are bars and discos open until 0300 or 0400. The minimum drinking age is 18 years. Very few clubs have a dress code.

Information on club nights and performances (as well as theatres, concerts and opera) is listed in Zri Tipp, published in Friday’s Tages Anzeiger (website: www.zueritipp.ch). Clubbers should get hold of Forecast, published monthly, which has extensive listings of Zurich’s club scene.

Bars: Quite a few of the city’s best bars serve food or have a restaurant attached. Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18 (tel: (01) 225 3300; website: www.kaufleuten.com), is a popular bar with a hip restaurant. Upmarket and hyper-trendy Caf Bar Odeon, Limmatquai 2, attracts the beautiful people and those who think they are (tel: (01) 251 1650). Somewhat more irreverent is Iroquois, Seefeldstrasse 120 (website: www.iroquois.ch), a bar with a Tex-Mex restaurant. BaBaLu, Schmidgasse 6 (tel: (01) 383 7077), is an eclectic place, sometimes hosting interesting live music. The Jules Verne Panorama Bar, on the 11th floor between the Brasserie Lipp and the Urania Observatory, Uraniastrasse 9 (tel: (01) 211 1155), is always crowded but offers wonderful views over the city. The Ziegel oh Lac bar and restaurant, in the Rote Fabrik arts centre, Seestrasse 395 (tel: (01) 481 6242; website: www.rotefabrik.ch), has waterside seating in summer and reasonably priced food.

Casino: Although gambling is legal in Switzerland, there is as yet no casino in Zurich. The major complex currently being built at the airport will contain a casino. However, it will be several years before this opens.

Clubs: In Switzerland ‘nightclubs’ refer to venues with erotic floorshows and/or lap or table dancing. ‘Discos’ or ‘dance clubs’ refer to clubs with music for dancing. Many of the new clubs are located in Langstrasse/Zurich West, the former red light and industrial district, and now being redeveloped as the heart of young Zurich. Excellent new clubs often including bars and restaurants include Labor, Schiffbaustrasse 3 (tel: (01) 272 4402; website: www.laborbar.ch) also used for the TV show ‘Aeschbacher’; Soul Cafe, Lwenstrasse 2 (tel: (01) 211 6367) for hip hop, soul and Latin music; and Supermarket, Geroldstrasse 17 (tel: (01) 440 2005; website: www.supermarket.li). Many of the older established clubs are part of larger arts and entertainment complexes with restaurants or cafs. In Rote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395 (website: www.rotefabrik.ch/musikbuero), 5km (3 miles) south of the centre (bus 161 or 165 from Brkliplatz), are the Klubraum and the Aktionshalle; a wide range of dance music is played, as well as live acts. Limmatbar is part of Palais X-tra, Limmatstrasse 118 (tel: (01) 448 1500; website: www.x-tra.ch) features DJs, live bands and attracts a trendy crowd. Kanzlei, Kanzleistrasse 56, near Helvetiaplatz (tel: (01) 241 5311; website: www.kanzlei.ch) features different nights with techno, house and disco. For techno and alternative dance music, Rohstofflager, Duttweilerstrasse, Ecke Pfingsweicerstrasse (tel: (01) 439 9090; website: www.rohstofflager.ch) is still a good bet, as is the newish Dynamo, part of the Jungendkulturhaus, Wasserwerkstrasse 21 (tel: (01) 365 3444; website: www.dynamo.ch) which also features live concerts, usually of punkish music. Salsa and funk are featured nightly at El Cubanito, Bleicherweg 5 (tel: (01) 226 2012; website: www.elcubanito.ch).

Live Music: Large rock concerts are usually held in the Hallenstadion, in the Oerlikon district, but this is closed for refurbishment until August 2005, so in the meanwhile they will be held either in the Stadion Hardturm, Hardturmstrasse 321 (tel: (01) 447 4646), or the Volkshaus, Stauffacherstrasse 60 (tel: (01) 241 6404; website: www.volkhaus.ch). For top-flight jazz in a striking setting, there is Moods Jazz Club, Schiffbaustrasse 6 (tel: (01) 276 8000; website: www.moods.ch), which is part of the major cultural centre in the former Sulzer shipbuilding works. The building also has a restaurant and theatre. There are concerts from Tuesday to Sunday but only two concerts per week in summer. The Casa Bar, Mnstergasse 30 (tel: (01) 261 2002), is Zrich’s longest-running jazz venue offering nightly entertainment. The chic Hotel Bar Widder, Widdergasse 6 (website: www.widderhotel.ch), has recently and successfully revived the old jazz nights on Wednesdays. An older clientele is drawn to the elegant Dolder Grand Hotel Bar, Kurhausstrasse 65 (tel: (01) 269 3000; website: www.doldergrand.ch), for popular piano music.

City Statistics

Location: Kanton Zrich (Zurich canton), north central Switzerland.
Country dialling code: 41.
Population: 364,000 (city); 1,200,000 (metropolitan area).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: - 0.5C (31F).
Average July temp: 17.5C (63.5F).
Annual rainfall: 1,142mm (45 inches).

Special Events

Fasnacht, Zurich Carnival, Feb/Mar, throughout the city
Sechseluten, Zurich Spring Festival, 20-21 Apr, throughout the city, especially on the Sechseluten field near the Opera (website: www.sechselaeuten.ch)
Mercado Latino, Latin American festival (website: www.caliente.ch), mid-Jun, Volkhaus, Helvetiaplatz
Zrcher Festspiele, theatre, opera and concerts, Jun-Jul, various venues (website: www.zuercher-festspiele.ch)
Open-air cinema, Jul-Aug, Zrichhorn Gardens
Ironman Switzerland Triathlon, late Jul/early Aug, Landiwiese (website: www.ironman.ch)
Street Parade, techno music parade, early Aug, throughout the city (website: www.street-parade.ch)
Zrcher Theaterspektakel, avant-garde drama, mid-Aug for 2 weeks, Landiwiese and other venues in the city
Knabenschiessen Festival, shooting competition, market and funfair, second weekend of Sep, around the Albisguetli butts to the southwest of the city (website: www.knabenschiessen.ch)
Zri Jazz Woche, early Sep, various venues
Halloweenfestival, late Oct, Zrich Eventhallen 550, Abb Arena
Swisscom Challenge, women’s indoor tennis championships, mid-Oct, Kloten, Schluefweg Arena
Expovina, floating wine exhibition, first two weeks of Nov, Brkliplatz
Silvesterlauf (New Year’s Eve Race), 10,000 runners participate in a 1.4-9.8km (1-6-mile) race, 14 Dec, through the old city along Bahnhofstrasse (website: www.silvesterlauf.ch)

Cost of Living

1 Swiss Franc (SFr1) = 0.44; US$0.83 ; C$1.03; A$1.07; 0.64
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005