World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

The prices quoted below include 20% VAT. Restaurant bills will also include a service charge of between 10% and 15%, so a tip is not usually necessary. However, it is customary for patrons to round the bill up to the nearest 1.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include VAT but not service charge or tip.

Gastronomic

Altwienerhof
Altweinerhof is a short walk from the Schnbrunn Palace and is one of the city’s great restaurants, still with many of its original Biedermeier features and an excellent garden. The restaurant has been in the Kellner family since 1928 and Rudolf Kellner is one of the country’s best chefs, well versed in several culinary cultures and his ‘grande cuisine’ is Austrian with a French bias. The menu changes daily, so recommendations are difficult. Nevertheless, all are excellent. Menu options have included lightly boiled pheasant with goose liver sauce and loup de mer (a mild white fish in saffron sauce). The chef prepares a menu dgustation of six or eight courses of each evening’s dishes for diners who are having difficulty making up their minds. The 25,000-bottle wine cellar is one of the world’s best. Closed Sunday and the last three weeks of January. Jacket and tie are essential.

Herklotzgasse 6
Tel: (01) 892 6000. Fax: (01) 8926 0008.
E-mail: office@altwienerhof.at
Website: www.altwienerhof.at/gb/restaurant.htm
Price: 70. Wine: 22.

Drei Husaren
Founded by members of the aristocracy in 1933, the Three Hussars is one of the city’s oldest continually running restaurants – not to mention one of the grandest. The atmosphere and decor still suggest the great days of the Hapsburgs, with a stylishly lavish yet intimate interior. The hors d’oeuvres trolley always offers at least 30 superb seasonal dishes and the house crpes, Husarenphannkuchen, should not be missed. Speciality dishes include the local favourite, tafelspitz (boiled beef) with ox marrow, hash brown potatoes, creamed spinach, chive sauce and apple sauce with horseradish, as well as calf’s head served in a number of ways, such as with tartar sauce and potato salad or with marjoram-shallot sauce and rice.

Weihburggasse 4
Tel: (01) 5121 0920. Fax: (01) 5121 09218.
E-mail: office@drei-husaren.at
Website: www.drei-husaren.at
Price: 65. Wine: 28.

Kervansaray-Hummerbar
The city’s finest fish restaurant, where the house specialities comprise a wide variety of lobster dishes. Besides many other fish dishes, such as Norwegian salmon with a horseradish and champagne sauce, excellent meat dishes are also available, even including kebabs and other top Turkish dishes. A special Caviar Menu is available on request. The ground floor Hummerbar (Lobster Bar) provides more modest Turkish and international meals. Both floors offer a fashionable but classic decor, with superb service and attention to detail. Closed Sunday.

Mahlerstrasse 9
Tel: (01) 512 8843. Fax: (01) 513 8130.
Price: 50. Wine: 17.

Korso bei der Oper
From the exquisite, classic decor to the exceptional food, produced under the direction of one of Austria’s finest chefs, Reinhard Gerer, the Korso is considered one of the city’s finest restaurants. It specialises in Austrian delicacies, with only the finest ingredients, including tafelspitz (boiled beef) and perch in red pepper cream sauce. The wine cellar also is one of the best in Europe. Diners should always save room for the wonderful versions of Viennese desserts. The restaurant has long been a favourite with international opera stars. No lunch Saturday.

Hotel Bristol, Krntner Ring 1
Tel: (01) 5151 6546.
Website: www.westin.com
Price: 75. Wine: 29.

Restaurant Anna Sacher
Since 1876, dining at the Hotel Sacher has been as much a social experience as a culinary one. Most celebrities visiting Vienna eventually end up at the scarlet dining room, usually to enjoy its most famous – and Austria’s national – dish, tafelspitz (boiled beef), served with an apple and horseradish and a chive sauce. Diners should always save room for the dessert speciality, Sachertorte, a chocolate tart split in half, spread with apricot jam and iced with chocolate. Each month there is a new menu reflecting the seasons. Reservations are required and it is best for diners to arrive before 2300, wearing smart clothes.

Hotel Sacher Wien, Philarmonikerstrasse 4
Tel: (01) 514 560. Fax: (01) 5145 6810.
Website: www.sacher.com
Price: 50. Wine: 19.

Terrace Restaurant, Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg
Without question, this venue is Vienna’s best for outdoor dining in the summer, with a terrace overlooking the park in the grounds of the 1716 Palais Schwarzenberg (now partly a hotel). Although the restaurant is extremely smart, dining is a tranquil experience here. The seasonal menu presents both Austrian and international cuisine, with dishes including polenta gnocci with pumpkin and truffles, rabbit ragout and salt encrusted sea bass with Aioli. Deserts, such as chocolate blinis with plums in balsamic vinegar and thyme ice cream, are not to be missed. The wine cellar is exceptional, with many wines available by the glass. It is also possible for diners to enjoy good but smaller meals in the bar.

Hotel Im Palais Schwarzenberg, Schwarzenbergplatz 9
Tel: (01) 798 4515. Fax: (01) 798 4714.
E-mail: hotel@palais-schwarzenberg.com
Website: www.palais-schwarzenberg.com
Price: 60 (50 in the bar). Wine: 25.

Business

Alef-Alef
Located in the middle of the ‘Bermuda Triangle’, next to the synagogue on Siettenstettengasse and just north of the Fleischmarkt, Alef-Alef is one of Vienna’s best kosher restaurants, with arched ceilings and red velvet upholstery. The classic dishes of German-Jewish cooking, such as Gefiltefisch (stuffed carp) and Kigel (potato strudel), are served up here, alongside a wide range of healthier Middle Eastern Jewish dishes of grilled meats and fish, salads and dips.

Seittenstettengasse 2
Tel: (01) 535 2530. Fax: (01) 5352 53033.
Website: www.alef-alef.at
Price: 25. Wine (kosher): 13.80.

Bodega Española
With an antique Spanish decor and a large open fire during the colder seasons, Bodega Espaola looks back to the days when the Hapsburg dynasty had strong connections to the Spanish throne. Located near the Belevedere Galleries, this is one of the finest tapas restaurants in the city. The menu features many small dishes, as well as excellent main courses, like bacalao la malaguea (a fish speciality from Malaga) and lamb steak with lemon-rosemary potatoes. Closed Saturday and Monday. Reservations recommended.

Belvederegasse 10
Tel: (01) 504 5500. Fax: (01) 587 9700.
Price: 25. Wine: 15.

Do&Co Stephansplatz
With the spectacular view from the seventh floor opposite St Stephen’s Cathedral, Do&Co attracts the jet-set crowd and visitors should book a window table in winter or one on the terrace in summer to ensure the prime place in this sophisticated and stylish venue. There is a sushi bar (lunchtime) and a better-than-average selection of vegetarian dishes. Meat dishes include the superb king crab and steak combo, Uruguay beef and goose liver on Caesar salad with pumpkinseed oil and lobster St Tropez (sauted in butter with tomatoes and basil). Sushi, teppanyaki and Thai dishes are also served. Do&Co is also reputed to have the youngest and best looking waitrons in Vienna. The restaurant also runs Onxy, a bar and caf on the sixth floor, as well as Aioli, for antipasti, tapas and Mediterranean dishes, on the third floor.

Stephansplatz 12 (patrons must take Lift Two)
Tel: (01) 535 3969. Fax: (01) 535 3959.
Website: www.doco.com
Price: 45. Wine: 21.

Kupferdachl
Kupferdachl is one of the best choices for moderately priced but excellent quality Styrian dishes, away from the usual tourist haunts. The restaurant is located in the cellar section of the Leupold restaurant and is very much a family affair, with an old-fashioned comfortable atmosphere. Specialities include raumschnitzel (creamed veal cutlet), lungenbraten (tenderloin of beef stuffed with goose liver, served with cream sauce and dumplings), barbury duck and Wienerschnitzel. There is live music occasionally. Closed Sunday; also Saturday in July and August.

Schottengasse 7 (entrance on Mlker Bastei 1)
Tel: (01) 533 9381.
Price: 26. Wine: 16.70.

Yugetsu
Near the Staatsoper, Yugetsu is considered by many to be Vienna’s best Japanese restaurant. The ground floor at Yugetsu, comprising a sushi bar and conventional tables, is decorated in a simple and restful Japanese style and offers sushi, sashimi, tempura and a large la carte menu. Upstairs is lighter, louder and done up for teppanyaki, with comfortable seats arranged around three sides of the double grill, upon which the teppanyaki cooks prepare meals in front of the diners. Closed Sunday.

Fhrichgasse 10
Tel: (01) 512 2720. Fax: (01) 5122 72021.
Price: 30. Wine: 16.70.

Trendy

MAK
In the Museum of Modern Art, MAK is very much a museum restaurant-caf, attracting a crowd that is fashionable rather than cultural. The venue is attractive with a combination of painted wooden ceiling and modern bars and a superb courtyard available for summertime dining. The house speciality is piroghi – pockets of pastry with many different fillings, such as potato and soft cheese. More substantial meals, such as duck with red cabbage and dumplings, are also available and the desserts are wonderful. No credit cards. Closed Monday.

Steubenring 5
Tel: (01) 714 0121. Fax: (01) 957 7729.
Website: www.mak.at
Price: 13. Wine: 16.

Neu Wien
The venue’s casual, cellar-like setting is popular with Vienna’s media and avant-garde crowd. The low lighting effectively sets off the many paintings and interesting murals and the restaurant itself was designated by the artist, C L Attersee. Neu Wien is one of the finest examples of New Vienna dining, where nouvelle cuisine meets that of the Hapsburgs. The menu changes frequently but could include dishes like Zanderfilet (crispy pike with cream beet sauce) or veal in truffle sauce. The superb Vranac wines from Montenegro should not be overlooked. Open until 0200 daily, Neu Wien is an excellent choice for late-night dining. No lunch.

Bckerstasse 5
Tel: (01) 513 0666.
Price: 25. Wine: 17.40.

Novelli
Novelli is one of Vienna’s finest modern Italian restaurants, with an open-plan room with chandeliers and big leather chairs. The antipasti bar is superb and main courses include dishes like steak with sage gnocchi and onions in balsamic vinegar or sea bass poached in tarragon cream. Desserts are well in keeping with Viennese luxury and the Italian wine list is extensive. There is also a discreet bar. Closed Monday.

Brunerstrasse 11
Tel: (01) 5134 2000. Fax: (01) 5134 2001.
E-mail: novelli@haslauer.at
Website: www.haslauer.at
Price: 35. Wine: 30.

Toko Ri
What began as a small sushi bar has now expanded to three locations, serving probably the best sushi in the city in beautiful interiors. The ika-natto-maki and the gyoza are recommended, as is the fish-maki without rice, a delicious composition of tuna, salmon, kani and avocado wrapped in nori. Evening reservations are recommended.

Salztorgasse 4
Tel: (01) 532 7777.
Website: www.tokori.at
Price: 30. Wine: 17.

Branches:
Franz-Hochedlinger-Gasse 2
Tel: (01) 214 8940.

Naschmarkt Stand 263–264
Tel: (01) 587 2616.

Naschmarkt Stand 177–178
Tel: (01) 586 1344.

Budget

Lokanta Sarikoç
Lokanta Sariko is one of Vienna’s best Turkish and Greek restaurants, featuring both buffet and waiter service in a relaxed atmosphere, with a slight accent of Turkish style and decor. There is a wide range of starters, grilled meats, kebabs and fish dishes, as well as many vegetarian dishes. The Wednesday night special menu is lamb on the spit.

Wahringerstrasse 8
Tel: (01) 319 9987.
Price: 15. Wine: 15.

Reinprecht (Heuriger)
Heurigens are outer suburban wine taverns, usually selling wine from the latest harvest. They are such a separate part of Viennese cuisine that it is only possible to recommend one in the main tourist heurigen area of Grinzing. Reinprecht is located in a 300-year-old monastery with a terraced garden and offers grills as well as the usual buffet of cold meats and cheeses, sausages, pickled salads, roast pork and dumplings. Sad Schrammelmusik (19th-century Viennese dance music with violins, guitar and clarinet/accordian) is played here nightly and the atmosphere is lively. The best wines are bought by the bottle, with the Pinot Blanc recommended. Reinprecht is closed from mid December to February.

Cobenzlgasse 22, Grinzing (U2 to Schottentor, then tram 38 to end terminus)
Tel: (01) 3201 4710. Fax: (01) 3205 71322.
E-mail: reinprecht@grinzing.net
Price: From 7. Wine: 11.

Wiener Rathauskeller
Throughout the Teutonic world, city halls have traditionally maintained basement restaurants. Even though this Rathaus was only built between 1871 and 1883 and the cellar restaurant not added until 1899, Vienna’s city hall is no exception. It features six neo-Gothic rooms, still with all their original stained-glass windows and vaulted ceilings. Besides the usual Viennese dishes, the speciality here is the Rathauskellerplatte for two, consisting of various veal, pork and lamb dishes. One portion of the cellar features a Viennese musical evening from 2000, featuring waltzes, operetta and Schrammel music. Closed Sunday. Reservations required.

Rathausplatz 1
Tel: (01) 4051 2190.
Price: 26. Wine: 18.60.

Wrenkh
Two venues form what is arguably Vienna’s top vegetarian restaurant and bar combo, in which Christian Wrenkh serves great seasonal food to a young and elegant crowd. The restaurants have a light and airy designer feel, with the accent on comfort. Firm favourites include miso soup, Greek fried rice with vegetables, feta cheese and olives and wild rice risotto with mushrooms. The attached bar was designed by Eichinger and Knechtl. Closed Sunday.

Bauernmarkt 10
Tel: (01) 533 1526. Fax: (01) 535 0840.
Price: 15. Wine: 12.

Branch:
Hollergasse 8
Tel: (01) 892 3356.

Zwölf-Apostelkeller (Stadtheurigen)
‘City Heurigen’ are generally located in the cellars of Vienna’s old monasteries and offer a taste of what the outlying wine taverns offer, for those who do not have the time to leave the city. In this one, parts of the ‘12 Apostles Cellar’ predate 1561, with wooden tables under lighting partially provided by streetlights set into the floor. The low prices do not detract from the quality of the traditional food, which includes goulash soup, meat dumplings and Schlachtplatte (a selection of meats with hot bacon and cabbage salad). As it is from the barrel rather than the bottle, which is common in a Heuriger, wine is sold by the quarter litre. There is music daily from 1830. Closed July.

Sonnenfelsgasse 3
Tel: (01) 512 6777. Fax: (1) 3686 85815.
Price: 18. Wine: 2.25 (quarter-litre carafe).

Personal Recommendations

Abend-Restaurant Fuervogel
A Viennese landmark since World War I, the Fuervogel is situated opposite the Lichtenstein Palace and is where one can enjoy the Slavic atmosphere and Gypsy violins. Ideally, a meal should begin with Sakkuska, a variety platter. In addition to the usual dishes, such as chicken kiev and beef stroganoff, the restaurant offers options like borscht, veal dulguruki and other dishes of the Steppes. Dessert should definitely be plombier, a rich Russian ice cream. Wonderful fixed-price gourmet dinners of three and five courses (‘Kreml Dinners’) are also available. Closed Sunday and 15 July to 15 August.

Alserbachstrasse 21
Tel: (01) 317 5391.
Price: 30. Wine: 10.

Café-Restaurant im Kunsthaus
This restaurant is part of the Kunsthaus gallery, which houses the unusual works of Friedensreich Hundertwasser – although it is not necessary to pay to see the exhibition in order to eat here. The Hundertwasser style attracts the arty, bohemian and tourist crowds and the restaurant is full of bright primary colours, with undulating floors and vast displays of fresh flowers. Although not the most imaginative of seasonally varied menus –soups, salads, and some Viennese meat dishes like Wienerschnitzel – this still is an extremely attractive and fun place for a meal. The Midsummer Night’s Dream-like garden is open in the summer.

Weissgerberlnde 14
Tel: (01) 712 0497.
E-mail: cafe@kunsthauswien.at
Website: www.kunsthauswien.at
Price: 15. Wine: 15.

Gulashmuseum
Although long a tourist favourite, the Gulashmuseum, with at least 15 different traditional versions of goulash is still an attractive option for a meal. One does not go to this restaurant for its decor, which is very much that of an Austrian country Gasthaus (guest house), almost to the point of a attractive kitsch. The best starter is the ‘national crpe’ of Hungary, Hortobgy palatschinken, pancakes with minced beef and paprika cream sauce. Goulash is served with beef, pork, veal, chicken liver or vegetables, usually accompanied by boiled potatoes and dark bread. The usual Austrian main courses of meat and fish are also available, as are desserts.

Schulerstrasse 20
Tel: (01) 512 1017.
Price: 19. Wine: 8.40 (litre carafe).

Santo Spirito
The Holy Spirit has decor straight from a romantic opera – a dark interior with red velvet curtains and cherubs on the walls – as well as loud classical music and late opening times (until 0200 or 0300). Busts of famous conductors are a feature on the walls. The restaurant has a mixed gay and straight clientele, although everyone is made to feel welcome. Dishes could include Gorgonzola and walnut ravioli in white wine sauce or chicken breast with cranberries, rosemary, marmalade and potato pure. It offers a superb selection of brunches named after famous composers. Reservations are necessary. No credit cards.

Kumpfgasse 7
Tel: (01) 512 9998.
Price: 30. Wine: 17.

Steirereck
With one Michelin star, Steirereck is one of Vienna’s best traditional and nouvelle cuisine restaurants. Located on the Danube Canal, with exposed beams taken from a castle, the restaurant has a cosy atmosphere. The seasonal menu, with a Styrian bias, might include lamb in olive and paprika sauce or lobster and courgettes on saffron rice. The Austrian wine list is extremely comprehensive, as is their cheese selection – some of which they make themselves. Brunch (Weiner Gabelfrhstck) offers an excellent selection of smaller dishes and the menu changes daily, depending on what is fresh at the markets. Visa and MasterCard are accepted in the evenings only. Closed weekends.

Rasumofskygasse 2 (Tram N to Lwengasse)
Tel: (01) 713 3168. Fax: (01) 7135 1682.
E-mail: wien@steirereck.at
Website: www.steirereck.at
Price: 60; 70 (set menu). Wine: 25.