World City Guide

Mini Guide of Vancouver

City Overview

Canada’s ‘gateway to the Pacific Rim’ and third largest city, Vancouver is blessed with one of the most beautiful settings in the world. Ocean and mountains surround the city and expanses of tree-covered parkland fall within its boundaries. Vancouver is also the jumping-off point for exploring the spectacular scenery of British Columbia, from the islands and fjords of the Pacific Coast to the mountains of the interior, as it is located in the southwestern corner of the province, where the Fraser Valley meets the Georgia Strait. With the beauty of the natural environment and the city’s role as a haven for former hippies and counter-culture types, it is not too surprising that organisations such as Greenpeace and Adbusters sprang up here. But Vancouver is also the commercial and cultural heart of Canada’s West Coast and a major convention and tourist destination.

Vancouver is often called ‘Lotusland’ by other Canadians, as much for its temperate climate as for its reputation for offering a laid-back and natural lifestyle. The city prides itself on its outdoorsy attitude, and the recreational options – ranging from sea kayaking, in-line skating and mountain biking to snowboarding, skiing and winter camping – are part of what lures millions of visitors to the city and the surrounding area.

Downtown Vancouver, with its historic Gastown and trendy Yaletown areas, is located on the Burrard Peninsula, as are the residential West End and Stanley Park with its dense cover of fir and cedar. The landmark Lions Gate Bridge links the city with North Vancouver and the North Shore Mountains across Burrard Inlet. The city’s large Chinatown and the multicultural Commercial Drive area lie to the east, while False Creek and the vibrant public spaces on Granville Island separate Downtown from the larger part of the city to the south. Vancouver’s many ethnic communities enliven the city, with everything from excellent restaurants to a diverse programme of cultural events. Numerous pathways follow the curves of the shoreline connecting up many of Vancouver’s distinctive neighbourhoods, such as Kitsilano and the West End, where pavement cafs and people-watching are de rigueur.

The Lower Mainland was originally home to various First Nations peoples (belonging to the Coast Salish linguistic group) when George Vancouver explored the area in 1792. In the 1820s, European settlers set up a fur and salmon trading post at Fort Langley, east of present-day Vancouver. Gold rushes in 1858 bolstered the local population; the town itself grew around a sawmill and the transcontinental railway terminus. The city was known as Granville for a while but, in 1886, it was renamed Vancouver.

For much of Vancouver’s history, and even to a large extent today, the city’s economy has relied on resource-based industries (such as logging and mining) and the transhipment of goods from the rail terminus to ocean-going vessels. Tourism is increasingly a factor, especially after the success of Expo86 and with the rising popularity of Alaska-bound cruises that depart from the Canada Place Terminal. The international spotlight will increasingly shine on Vancouver, along with Whistler, in the lead-up to hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics and Paralympic Games. New light-rail lines and other civic projects to coincide with the event will make an already tourist-friendly city even more geared towards visitors.

Vancouver enjoys a maritime climate, with mild winters and warm summers ensuring that the city is green throughout the year. Although winters can be notoriously rainy, there are often long periods of continuous sunshine in the summertime, when visitors come to explore the region’s natural beauty. Snowfall is rare in the city, although it is more than adequate for the ski slopes on the mountains to the north.

Getting There By Air

Vancouver International Airport (YVR)
Tel: (604) 276 6500 or 207 7077 (information).
Website: www.yvr.ca

The airport is located 15km (9 miles) southwest of the city centre and is a major gateway between Pacific Rim and North American destinations. It serves over 15 million passengers annually, making it Canada’s second busiest airport. The international and domestic terminals are connected directly to one another. The South Terminal (linked by shuttle bus) handles float plane and helicopter services, which are also available to the Downtown waterfront on Burrard Inlet.

Major airlines: The national airline is Air Canada (tel: (888) 247 2262; website: www.aircanada.com), which operates regional services under the Air Canada Jazz moniker and low-cost domestic routes as Tango. The low-cost airlines WestJet (tel: (888) 937 8538; website: www.westjet.com) and Jetsgo (tel: (866) 440 0441; website: www.jetsgo.net) operate flights between Vancouver and other destinations, mainly in Canada. Among the 40 other carriers serving the airport are Air New Zealand, Air Transat, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Continental Airlines, Japan Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa, Northwest Airlines, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, United Airlines and Zoom Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Vancouver: From London is 9 hours 40 minutes; from New York is 6 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 2 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto is 4 hours 50 minutes and from Sydney is 18 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include the Fairmont Vancouver Airport hotel, duty-free and other shops, newspaper stands, restaurants, bars, nursery, bank, bureaux de change, ATMs, left luggage, Internet payphones, WiFi access, DVD rentals, chapel, hair salon, health spa, showers and visitor information (tel: (604) 207 1598). Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Business facilities: In addition to airline lounges, there is the CDS Business Centre, open 0500-2300 (tel: (604) 303 4500) in the international terminal. Services include fax, photocopying and computer workstations.

Arrival/departure tax: An airport improvement fee (AIF) is payable upon departure – C$5 for flights within British Columbia, and C$15 for flights outside the province. Other departure taxes are included in the ticket price.

Transport to the city: The Greater Vancouver Transportation Authority, under the name TransLink (tel: (604) 953 3333; website: www.translink.bc.ca), operates city buses and the SkyTrain, which combine to provide a convenient route into the city centre from the airport. Bus 424 operates a service 0530-2445 daily, to the Airport Station bus terminal, with frequent connections to the 98B express bus, which runs 0427-0119, to Downtown (total journey time – 45 minutes). Departures are every seven-eight minutes at peak times and every 15 minutes evenings and weekends. The fare is C$2.25-4.50.

A coach service to Downtown Vancouver hotels and the main bus depot is provided by Airporter (tel: (604) 946 8866 or (800) 668 3141; website: www.yvrairporter.com) every 15 minutes 0630-2115, then every half an hour until 2410 (journey time – 25-45 minutes). Fares cost C$12 one way and C$18 return (concessions are available). Coaches are also available to Seattle, Victoria and Whistler.

The taxi fare to Downtown is approximately C$25-30 (journey time – 25 minutes). A limousine service is also available from Limojet Gold Express (tel: (604) 273 1331; website: www.limojetgold.com) for a flat rate of C$39 (plus tax) to the city centre.

Getting There By Water

The Port of Vancouver’s 25 marine terminals are looked after by the Vancouver Port Authority (tel: (604) 665 9000 or (888) 767 8826; website: www.portvancouver.com) and is one of the busiest ports in North America. Although most of the traffic is cargo, a dozen cruise lines operate over 300 trips to Alaska, carrying around one million passengers per year. The port contains two passenger terminals. The Downtown Canada Place Terminal offers restaurants, hotels and left-luggage facilities, while Ballantyne Terminal, about 2km (just over 1 mile) to the east, has fewer facilities, with food and drink concessions.

Ferry services: Scheduled services from Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the Sunshine Coast are offered by BC Ferries (tel: (250) 386 3431 or (888) 223 3779; website: www.bcferries.com). The major routes from Vancouver Island are Victoria–Vancouver, with ferries sailing between Swartz Bay and Tsawassen (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes), and Nanaimo–Vancouver, with ferries arriving at either the Horseshoe Bay or Tsawassen terminals (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes or 2 hours, respectively). Pods of orcas (killer whales) can sometimes be seen on the trip from Victoria.

Transport to the city: Canada Place Terminal is a short walk from Waterfront SkyTrain Station and the main shopping and hotel districts. Taxis are readily available at Ballantyne Terminal and all westbound buses on Powell Street and Hastings Street (a few blocks south of the pier) lead Downtown. A free shuttle bus connects the two terminals.

From Tsawassen, foot passengers can book a seat on Pacific Coach Lines coaches (tel: (604) 662 7575 or (800) 661 1725; website: www.pacificcoach.com) to the main bus terminal (tickets may be purchased aboard the ferry). Public transit is available on bus 620 (first bus at 0640, then hourly 0800-2300), which leads to the Airport Station transfer point, from where the 98B bus heads downtown (total journey time – 60-75 minutes). From Horseshoe Bay, express bus 257 (journey time – 40 minutes) and bus 250 (journey time – 55 minutes) both travel directly to Downtown Vancouver.

Getting There By Road

A system of provincial highways links Vancouver with cities in the Lower Mainland and the Sunshine Coast, as well as the US border. Traffic drives on the right. Road signs are international. Maximum speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on rural highways and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. It is legal to turn right at a red light. An International Driving Permit is recommended, although it is not legally required. Visitors to British Columbia may drive on their national driving licences for up to six months, and third-party legal liability insurance is required. The minimum driving age is 16 years.

There are often random road checks to catch intoxicated drivers; the maximum legal alcohol-to-blood ratio for driving is 0.08%, although drivers may be charged with driving under the influence at any blood-alcohol level. Seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers. Radar detection devices are strictly prohibited and may not be carried in automobiles. Although there is very little snowfall in Vancouver, it can be heavy throughout the rest of the province in the winter: snow tyres (and chains in mountainous regions) are a necessity.

Information on road conditions is available from the Ministry of Transportation (tel: (604) 299 9000, ext 7623 or (900) 565 4997, C$0.75 per minute; website: www.gov.bc.ca/tran). The British Columbia Automobile Association (BCAA) offers travel planning, insurance and other services to motorists (tel: (604) 268 5000; website: www.bcaa.com).

Emergency breakdown services:
BCAA (604) 293 2222 (Lower Mainland only)
CAA/AAA (800) 222 4357

Routes to the city: The Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) passes through the Rockies on its way from Calgary and the rest of Canada. From Seattle, Interstate 5 becomes Highway 99 at the border; north of Vancouver, Highway 99 is known as the Sea to Sky Highway and follows the coast from Whistler to the city. Ferries from Vancouver Island arrive at Tsawassen or Horseshoe Bay ferry terminals, which are linked to Vancouver via Highway 99, to the south and north of the city respectively. Victoria is reachable via the Swartz Bay-Tsawassen ferry.

Approximate driving times to Vancouver: From Whistler – 2 hours; Victoria – 2 hours 30 minutes (including ferry crossing); Seattle – 3 hours; Calgary – 11 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Pacific Central Station is the main coach station and is directly adjacent to the main rail station at 1150 Station Street (see Getting There By Rail). A number of carriers operate from the station, each covering different routes.

Greyhound Canada (tel: (604) 482 8747 or (800) 661 8747; website: www.greyhound.ca) runs frequent services from destinations within the province (including Nanaimo and Whistler) and further afield. Pacific Coach Lines (tel: (604) 662 7575 or (800) 661 1725; website: www.pacificcoach.com) operates a daily service from Victoria at least every two hours (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes). Western Trailways (tel: (604) 940 5561 or (877) 940 5561; website: www.cantrail.com), Quick Shuttle (tel: (604) 940 4428 or (800) 665 2122; website: www.quickcoach.com) and US-based Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) offer services from Seattle (journey time – about 4 hours).

Getting There By Rail

VIA Rail (tel: (888) 842 7245; website: www.viarail.ca) is the national rail service provider. The infrequent rail services are generally reliable and standards within the carriages are high. A large number of passengers choose rail for the scenic trip, rather than to get from A to B.

Pacific Central Station is the terminus for the main transcontinental lines. It is located at 1150 Station Street, adjacent to the main coach station. Facilities include bureau de change, food and drink concessions, gift shop and newsagents.

Rail services: VIA Rail operates the transcontinental Canadian service. This thrice-weekly train passes through Winnipeg, Edmonton and Jasper on its three-day journey from Toronto. Both economy and first-class services are available. Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrakcascades.com) provides a daily service from Seattle (journey time – 4 hours). A service from Calgary is offered by the privately run Rocky Mountaineer (tel: (604) 606 7245 or (877) 460 3200; website: www.rockymountaineer.com), with an overnight stop in Kamloops so that the entire rail journey through the scenic Rockies is in daylight. The thrice-weekly service runs from mid-April to mid-October and advance reservations are required. The same company has plans to operate a similar service along the Sunshine Coast and then inland to Whistler: the Whistler Mountaineer (website: www.whistlermountaineer.com) is due to start rolling in 2006.

Transport to the city: Pacific Central Station is located next to the Main Street/Science World SkyTrain Station. Buses 3, 8 and 19 (northbound) all lead to Downtown. A taxi ride to Downtown will cost approximately C$8-10.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Greater Vancouver Transportation Authority, under the name TransLink (tel: (604) 953 3333; website: www.translink.bc.ca), operates city buses and the SkyTrain, SeaBus and West Coast Express services.

A regular bus service (branded Coast Mountain Bus) runs from approximately 0500-2400 and is supplemented by the limited ‘Owl’ night bus service.

Vancouver’s clean and efficient SkyTrain is a metro system with four underground stops Downtown and an elevated track for the rest of its 49km (30-mile) journey through the suburbs. Trains on the original Expo Line run from Waterfront Station via New Westminster to Surrey; those on the newer Millennium Line follow the same route as far as Columbia Station, before branching off for the eastern suburbs and then looping back to connect with the Expo Line at Broadway/Commercial Drive Station. Trains depart every 2 to 4 minutes (first trains are at 0530 Monday to Friday, 0630 Saturday and 0750 Sunday; last trains are at 0115 Monday to Saturday and 2415 Sunday). Transfers can be made at most stations to bus services and at Waterfront Station to the SeaBus, a catamaran ferry that connects Downtown with North Vancouver every 15 minutes during the day and 30 minutes in the evening (journey time – 12 minutes).

Fares for all three modes of transport are based on a zone system – C$2.25 for one zone or for any number of zones after 1830 on weekdays and all day Saturday and Sunday, C$3.25 for two zones and C$4.50 for three zones. Transfers are valid for 90 minutes from the start of the journey. Exact change is required on buses, while tickets for the SkyTrain and SeaBus are available for purchase at ticket windows and machines. Tickets must be validated before entering the fare zone.

Day passes valid for all of the above modes of transport in all zones are available for C$8. Books of 10 tickets are available for purchase from the ticket windows for C$18/27/36 (for one/two/three zones).

Other transportation options include the West Coast Express, a commuter rail service connecting Waterfront SkyTrain Station with a number of cities in the Fraser Valley. The Downtown Historic Railway (website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/streetcar) links Granville Island with Science World on summer weekends (late May-mid-October 1300-1700). A return trip costs C$2.

Connecting a number of points on either side of False Creek are tiny bath-toy-like passenger ferries operated by two private companies – Aquabus (tel: (604) 689 5858; website: www.aquabus.bc.ca) and False Creek Ferries (tel: (604) 684 7781; website: www.granvilleislandferries.bc.ca). Fares (C$2-8.50 one way) depend on the route travelled. Day passes are available for C$10-12 (concessions available).

Taxis
Taxis are readily available at taxi stands or by telephone and can easily be hailed in the Downtown area, although they can be difficult to find elsewhere in the city. The main taxi firms are Yellow Cab Company (tel: (604) 681 1111 or (800) 898 8294; website: www.yellowcabvancouver.ca) and Black Top & Checker Cabs (tel: (604) 731 1111). Minivan taxis are available upon request. Fares start at C$2.56 and increase by C$1.39 per kilometre. A tip of 15% is customary.

Limousines
Limojet Gold (tel: (604) 273 1331 or (800) 278 8742; website: www.limojetgold.com) offers airport transfers to numerous destinations (including Whistler, for C$295 plus tax one way), as well as sedan cars and ultra-stretch limos for C$60-100. Other providers include Griffin Transportation Services (tel: (604) 682 4474 or (877) 369 5466; website: www.griffintransportation.com) at C$70-110 per hour.

Driving in the City
As Vancouver is spread out over a series of islands and peninsulas, the main traffic bottlenecks are the region’s many bridges, notably during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). There are no highways in the centre of the city, so driving is slower and more time should be allowed to reach a destination. It is usually easier to take public transport and/or walk in Downtown Vancouver.

Outside of Downtown, north–south roads are named Streets and east–west roads are numbered Avenues. It is easy to locate addresses on north–south streets by subtracting 16 from the first two digits of the address, to find the corresponding block (for example, 2630 Main Street would be between 10th and 11th Avenues). Ontario Street divides the city into East and West (all of Downtown’s streets are West).

Parking is readily available in underground and multi-storey car parks in the Downtown area – parking lots are run by EasyPark Vancouver (website: www.easyparkvancouver.com). Prices vary depending on the location but are generally in the region of C$1-2 per hour and a C$3 flat rate for evening parking. Locations and rates are available on EasyPark’s website.

Car Hire
All the major car hire companies are represented in Vancouver. Central locations include Alamo, 1185 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 684 1401; website: www.alamo.com), Avis, 757 Hornby Street (tel: (604) 606 2868 or (800) 879 2847; website: www.avis.ca), Budget BC, 416 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 668 7000 or (800) 299 3199; website: www.bc.budget.com), National, 1185 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 609 7150 or (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.ca), and Thrifty, Empire Landmark Hotel, 1400 Robson Street (tel: (604) 681 4869 or (800) 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com). Rent-A-Wreck, 1349 Hornby Street (tel: (604) 688 0001 or (888) 665 3777; website: www.rentawreck.ca), is usually cheaper than the major providers.

In general, an International Driving Permit is not required unless the driving licence is not in English. Drivers under 25 years of age may face certain restrictions and those aged 19-21 may have to pay a surcharge of around C$20 per day. All drivers are required to pay the Passenger Vehicle Rental Tax and other government fees (which add C$2.68 a day to any rental), federal and provincial sales taxes (7% each), plus a surcharge of around 15% for airport rentals. Economy car rates start at around C$35-40 per day, not including taxes or other incidentals (such as CDW, insurance, drop-off fees, petrol or mileage charges, etc). Those hiring a car should always check whether or not the minimum insurance requirements are included in the price of hire.

For excursions into British Columbia’s wilderness, a motorcamper or motorhome (known as a recreational vehicle or RV) offers a great deal of flexibility. Westcoast Mountain Campers (tel: (604) 279 0550 or (888) 878 3200; website: www.wcmcampers.com) and Traveland RV Supercentre (tel: (604) 530 8141 or (888) 318 4000; website: www.travelandrvcanada.com) are two options.

Bicycle Hire
The best place to hire a bicycle or the ever more popular in-line skates is around Robson Street and Denman Street, near Stanley Park. Bayshore Bicycle & Rollerblade Skate Rentals, 745 Denman Street (tel: (604) 688 2453; website: www.bayshorebikerentals.ca), is open daily 0900-2100 (0900-dusk in winter). Hire rates are C$5.60 per hour or C$19.80 for eight hours for 21-speed mountain bikes and C$5 an hour or C$18.50 for eight hours for in-line skates. Spokes Bicycle Rentals, 1798 West Georgia Street (tel: (604) 688 5141; website: www.vancouverbikerental.com), offers guided tours in summer, in addition to bicycle hire.

Along the seawall and within Stanley Park, cyclists should watch for signs indicating if trails may be shared with pedestrians or are pedestrian-only. Elsewhere, the city has a well-marked system of bike paths, although hills and heavy traffic on the bridges may be challenging for inexperienced riders. Bicycle helmets are required by law and the same traffic rules for automobiles apply to cyclists. The City of Vancouver website (www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/cycling) provides further information.

Business

Business Profile
Vancouver’s central business district coincides with the main retail areas Downtown and is supplemented by eight regional town centres within the Greater Vancouver Regional District (GVRD).

Traditionally, Vancouver’s dominant industries have been in the primary sector, drawing on the vast wealth of resources in the province of British Columbia. Even today, the industries that represent the largest proportion of the hundred-or-so firms with head offices in Vancouver are in the forestry and mining sectors, followed by construction, food distribution, retail and financial services. The largest of these firms include Telus (telecommunications), BC Hydro (electricity), Jim Pattison Group (diverse industries), Finning International (heavy equipment), Teck Cominco (mining), HSBC (banking), Canfor (forest products) and Placer Dome (mining). Altogether, Vancouver is home to one tenth of Canada’s Top 500 companies, although the number has been dropping due to mergers or firms consolidating their operations in Toronto or Calgary.

Other important sectors include tourism and conventions, agriculture and export and transhipment industries, taking advantage of the city’s rail, road and sea connections. Vancouver’s port is one of North America’s busiest and ranks in the top 20 in the world. Around 70 million tonnes of cargo (principally coal, grain, sulphur, potash and wood pulp) pass through the Port of Vancouver every year, and the cruise industry adds around C$500 million to the economy.

The past years have seen an increase in film production in British Columbia and the majority of the C$1.1 billion spent in 2001 was in Vancouver and the Lower Mainland.

Around 80% of the working population are employed in the service sector, with the bulk of the rest working in construction and primary industries. The seasonally adjusted unemployment rate in Vancouver was 6.5% in November 2004, about the same as the province at 6.4% and slightly better than the national average of 7.3%.

Business Etiquette
Normal business courtesies should be observed in Vancouver, although Vancouverites are less formal than Europeans and tend to use first-name terms after initial introductions have been completed. Business cards are usually exchanged on meeting a colleague for the first time – and a compliment on Vancouver’s beauty is sure to be well received. Both men and women generally wear suits, although short-sleeved shirts are acceptable in summer. Appointments and punctuality for business meetings are naturally expected. Business hours are usually 0900-1700 weekdays, although may start or end an hour earlier or later, depending on the company. Lunch meetings are more common than breakfast meetings, however, these are rarely alcohol-fuelled affairs. Most business entertainment takes place in bars and restaurants and it is unusual for a business visitor to be invited into someone’s home. If you are, a token gift (alcohol, flowers or chocolates) would be a nice gesture. Anything more expensive may be deemed unacceptable.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Sightseeing Overview Downtown Vancouver is a compact area full of activity, day and night. Robson Square is a focal point, with a series of landscaped terraces, a congress centre and the Vancouver Art Gallery. To the west lie the shops and restaurants of Robson Street, while to the southeast are the renovated warehouses of Yaletown (website: www.yaletowninfo.com), where trendy shops, galleries and restaurants continue to open up.

A view of the mountains to the north of the city can be had from Canada Place, which houses the city’s convention centres and whose striking sail-like roof echoes its role as a cruise ship terminal. East of here lies Gastown (the reconstructed old centre of Vancouver) and Chinatown, the third largest in North America, where a variety of ethnic eating places and shops can be found. Beyond that, Commercial Drive (website: www.thedrive.ca or www.thedrive.net) offers a more alternative scene, interspersed with the older Italian cafs.

Separating Downtown from Stanley Park is the West End, whose green and tranquil streets belie the fact that it has one of the highest population densities in North America. Denman Street typifies the lifestyle, with shops and cafs and a fantastic sunset view over English Bay.

False Creek and Granville Island separate Downtown from the rest of Vancouver to the south. The University of British Columbia is much further to the west, beyond the now-gentrified, former hippie district of Kitsilano.

The FindFamilyFun website (www.findfamilyfun.com) is an excellent help for planning a visit with kids in mind.

Tourist Information
Tourism Vancouver – Touristinfo Centre
Waterfront Centre, Plaza Level, 200 Burrard Street
Tel: (604) 683 2000. Fax: (604) 682 6839.
Website: www.tourismvancouver.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800 (mid-May-Aug); Mon-Fri 0830-1700, Sat 0900-1700 (Sep-mid-May).

There are also tourist information centres in both terminals at the airport, at the cruise ship terminals, and at the Peace Arch border crossing (Highway 99). Information on travel throughout the province is available from Super, Natural British Columbia (tel: (250) 387 1642 or (604) 435 5622 or (800) 435 5622; website: www.hellobc.com).

Passes
There are no sightseeing passes currently available. However, printable discount coupons are available online (website: www.vancouverattractions.com)

Key Attractions

Stanley Park
The 10km (6-mile) Seawall that circles Stanley Park (tel: (604) 257 8400; website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/parks/stanley) provides incredible ocean views for strollers, joggers, cyclists and in-line skaters. Sport equipment may be hired nearby. Stanley Park Horse-drawn Tours (tel: (604) 681 5115; website: www.stanleyparktours.com) offers one-hour tours every half an hour, daily from mid-March to late October, for C$20.55 (concessions available). The departure point is near the park’s Georgia Street entrance. As well, a free shuttle bus makes a circuit around Stanley Park every 15 minutes (daily 1000-1830) in the summer.

The network of trails that crisscross the 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of rainforest and parkland connects the Seawall and beaches with an open-air swimming pool, restaurants, a totem pole park and the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre. The aquarium is home to West Coast marine life, as well as creatures from warmer waters. Daily whale and dolphin shows and the feeding of the sea otters are popular events.

Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre
Tel: (604) 659 3474. Fax: (604) 659 3515.
E-mail: information@vanaqua.org
Website: www.vanaqua.org
Transport: Bus 23, 35 or 135.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1900 (late Jun-early Sep); daily 1000-1730 (early Sep-late Jun).
Admission: C$16.50 (concessions available).

Vancouver Art Gallery
Housed in the former provincial courthouse, the gallery’s permanent collection includes a substantial number of paintings by Emily Carr, whose naturalistic style echoes that of the Group of Seven (the name given to a group of early 20th-century painters whose work highlighted Canada’s beauty). The permanent collection also includes works by Canadian and international artists and is supplemented by a variety of touring exhibitions.

750 Hornby Street
Tel: (604) 662 4700 or 662 4719 (information). Fax: (604) 682 1086.
Website: www.vanartgallery.bc.ca
Transport: Granville SkyTrain Station; bus 5, 15 or any Granville Street bus.
Opening hours: daily 1000-1730 (until 2100 Thurs); closed Mon mid-Oct-Easter.
Admission: C$15 (concessions available); by donation Thurs evening.

Gastown
Gastown, the reconstructed old centre of Vancouver, is a pleasant array of cobblestone streets, cafs and shops (tel: (604) 683 5650; website: www.gastown.org). It is named after Gassy Jack, a voluble saloon owner who offered the local mill-workers all the whisky they could drink if they helped construct his saloon – he was open for business the next day. Gastown is also the site of the unique Steam Clock, driven by steam from the system used to heat Downtown’s office buildings. Though based on 19th-century design, the world’s first steam clock was actually built in 1975. Most tourists come here for the shopping – it is one of the best spots in the city in which to find souvenirs such as Inuit art and works by native Pacific Northwest artists. The latest attraction, however, is the Storyeum, a live multimedia ‘storytelling experience’ that showcases the history of British Columbia. In summer, free 90-minute tours depart from the Gassy Jack statue in Maple Tree Square at 1400.

Storyeum
142 Water Street
Tel: (604) 687 8142 or (800) 687 8142.
Website: www.storyeum.com
Transport: Waterfront SkyTrain Station; bus 50 (many other downtown routes pass nearby).
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1700 (showtimes vary and should be pre-booked).
Admission: $22 (concessions available).

Chinatown
Vancouver’s large Chinatown district (website: www.vancouverchinatown.ca), Canada’s biggest, centres on Pender Street and Main Street, and offers a kaleidoscope of colours and rich scents. A wide range of restaurants is the focus for morning dim sum and more elaborate evening meals. The night market (open Friday-Sunday, 1830-2300, from June-mid-September) is especially worth a visit. Chinese Canadians themselves are just as likely to shop in the southern suburb of Richmond, however, where there are a number of malls comprising mostly Asian shops.

At the western edge of Chinatown, the Dr Sun Yat-Sen Garden was the first full-sized, classical Chinese garden to be built outside of China and offers an oasis from the gritty urbanity that surrounds it. Based on Ming Dynasty precepts, the combination of water, plants, limestone rock and pavilions has finely composed views and is suffused with symbolism.

Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden
578 Carrall Street
Tel: (604) 662 3207. Fax: (604) 682 4008.
E-mail: sunyatsen@telus.net
Website: www.vancouverchinesegarden.com
Transport: Stadium SkyTrain Station; bus 19 or 22.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1900 (mid-Jun-Aug); daily 1000-1800 (Sep and May-mid-Jun); daily 1000-1630 (Oct ); Tue-Sun 1000-1630 (Nov-Apr).
Admission: C$8.25, including guided tour and tea; concessions available.

Granville Island
Granville Island is home to a lively mix of entertainment and eating spots, shops and a large public market. Visitors can watch potters, weavers and glassblowers as they work, or stop by the sport-fishing, model boat or train museums (website: www.granvilleislandmuseums.com). There are often concerts and outdoor events during the summer months. Visitors with children will appreciate the Kids’ Market and playground. The best way to get to Granville Island is an experience in itself – on one of the tiny ferryboats that connect various points along False Creek (see Getting Around).

Granville Island
Tel: (604) 666 5784.
E-mail: info@granvilleisland.com
Website: www.granvilleisland.com
Transport: Bus 50; Downtown Historic Railway from Science World; Aquabus or False Creek Ferries.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Information Centre and Public Market); daily 1000-1800 (Net Loft, Kids’ Market and Maritime Market).
Admission: Free.

Science World
The distinctive silver geodesic dome at the end of False Creek houses Science World – an interactive museum with a special appeal for children. However, the high quality of the exhibits, temporary exhibitions and fascinating demonstrations of science should keep audiences of all ages rapt. It is also the site of the Alcan OMNIMAX Theatre, with its enormous dome screen.

1455 Quebec Street
Tel: (604) 443 7443. Fax: (604) 443 7430.
Website: www.scienceworld.ca
Transport: Main Street/Science World SkyTrain Station; bus 3, 8 or 19; Downtown Historic Railway from Granville Island; Aquabus or False Creek Ferries.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1800. There are also regular evening screenings at the OMNIMAX Theatre.
Admission: C$13.75 (Science World); C$11.25 (OMNIMAX show); C$18.75 (combined ticket); concessions available.

Vancouver Maritime Museum
The Vancouver Maritime Museum chronicles the region’s rich sea-going history with exhibits on everything ship-related, including the RCMP Arctic schooner St Roch (the first vessel to navigate the Northwest Passage from West to East) and working vessels in the Heritage Harbour. Sharing Vanier Park with the museum are the HR MacMillan Space Centre (website: www.hrmacmillanspacecentre.com) and the Vancouver Museum (website: www.vanmuseum.bc.ca). Major outdoor events take place in the park in summer.

Vanier Park, 1905 Ogden Avenue
Tel: (604) 257 8300. Fax: (604) 737 2621.
Website: www.vancouvermaritimemuseum.com
Transport: Bus 2 or 22 to Cornwall Street and Cypress Street; False Creek Ferries.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (mid-May-Sep); Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700 (Sep-mid-May).
Admission: C$8 (concessions available).

UBC Botanical Garden and Nitobe Memorial Garden
For nature lovers, there are two world-class gardens on the University of British Columbia campus – the UBC Botanical Garden and the delightful Nitobe Memorial Garden. The former is a 28-hectare (70-acre) collection of temperate plants from around the globe (with the largest collection of rhododendrons in Canada), while the latter is a traditional Japanese garden and a tranquil place for reflection.

6804 Southwest Marine Drive
Tel: (604) 822 9666 (information) or 822 4529 (garden shop). Fax: (604) 822 2016.
E-mail: botg@interchange.ubc.ca
Website: www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org or www.nitobe.org
Transport: Bus 41, 43, 49 or 480, or any UBC-bound bus, then a 20-minute walk (UBC Botanical Garden); any UBC-bound bus, then a 10-minute walk (Nitobe Memorial Garden).
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (mid-Mar-mid-Oct); daily 1000-1630 (mid-Oct-mid-Mar); Nitobe Memorial Garden open mid-Mar-mid-Oct only.
Admission: UBC Botanical Garden C$6 mid-Mar-mid-Oct, by donation in winter; Nitobe Memorial Garden C$4; combined ticket C$8.

Museum of Anthropology
The Museum of Anthropology on the UBC campus is a striking building designed by Arthur Erickson for the purpose of displaying a comprehensive collection of British Columbia’s First Nations heritage. The simple concrete forms allow the star attraction, totem poles, to stand out against the view of the ocean visible through the expanse of glass walls.

6393 Northwest Marine Drive
Tel: (604) 822 5087 or 822 3825 (information). Fax: (604) 822 2974.
Website: www.moa.ubc.ca
Transport: Bus 44 or any UBC-bound bus, then a 10-minute walk.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700; Tues 1000-2100 (late May-early Sept); Wed-Sun 1100-1700; Tues 1100-2100 (early Sep-late May).
Admission: C$9 (concessions available); free Tues 1700-2100.

Further Distractions

Grouse Mountain
Just 20 minutes’ to the north of the city and clearly visible from almost anywhere in Downtown Vancouver, Grouse Mountain, as well as neighbours Cypress Mountain (website: www.cypressmountain.com) and Mount Seymour (website: www.mountseymour.com), beckons the visitor. The mountains offer skiing opportunities in the winter and spring, and the chance to hike, mountain bike or even paraglide in summer. The SkyRide gondola offers a dramatic approach to Grouse Mountain – every 15 minutes the cable car makes the 1,100m (3,700ft) ascent. Rugged individuals usually do the ‘Grouse Grind’ (a 90 to 120-minute hike up the slope) instead. At the top, trails branch out offering opportunities to explore, with impressive views of the city, ocean and mountains. Night-time skiing is a popular activity. There is also the Peak Chairlift, travelling right up to the 1,250m (4,100ft) summit with its 360-degree panoramic view.

Grouse Mountain SkyRide & Ski Resort
6400 Nancy Greene Way
Tel: (604) 984 0661 or 986 6262 (snow line). Fax: (604) 984 6360.
Website: www.grousemountain.com
Transport: Bus 232 or 236.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2200; winter weekends from 0815.
Admission: C$26.95 (SkyRide); C$42 (Peak Chairlift tickets valid 0900-2200); C$33 (Peak Chairlift tickets valid after 1600); free in summer (Peak Chairlift).

Capilano Suspension Bridge
High over the canyon to the west of Grouse Mountain is the Capilano Suspension Bridge, one of the world’s longest (and highest) suspended footbridges at 140m (450ft) long, which offers a stomach-churning view into the gorge, some 70m (230ft) below. On-site attractions include a totem pole park, native carving centre and nature trails. Less impressive, but free of charge, is the suspension bridge between the Ecology Centre and network of trails in Lynn Canyon Park (website: www.dnv.org/ecology), accessible by bus 228 or 229.

3735 Capilano Road, North Vancouver
Tel: (604) 985 7474. Fax: (604) 985 7479.
E-mail: info@capbridge.com
Website: www.capbridge.com
Transport: Bus 232, 236, 246 or 247.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (winter); daily 0830-dusk (summer).
Admission: C$21.95; concessions available; discount coupon on the website.

VanDusen Botanical Gardens
The VanDusen Botanical Gardens are home to a variety of beautiful and exotic plants. The main attraction for many visitors, however, is the Elizabethan hedge maze, one of only six in North America. The best time for tourists to visit the gardens is during the month of December, when the grounds are lit by thousands of Christmas lights.

5251 Oak Street
Tel: (604) 878 9274.
Website: www.vandusengarden.org
Transport: Bus 17.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-dusk.
Admission: C$7.50 (Apr-Sep); C$5.20 (Oct-Mar); concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The most enjoyable place to walk, which visitors should not miss out on, is the Seawall, which runs around the edge of Stanley Park and continues along False Creek. For guided tours that put the modern city in perspective, Walkabout Historic Vancouver (tel: (604) 720 0006; website: www.walkabouthistoricvancouver.com) offers daily (at 1000 and 1400) two-hour walking tours, one of Downtown Vancouver and Gastown, one of Chinatown and Gastown, and one of Granville Island. Tours cost C$25 and departure points are confirmed following reservation.

The Architectural Institute of British Columbia (tel: (604) 683 8588; website: www.aibc.bc.ca) offers a number of free guided tours, from June to August. These introduce visitors to Vancouver’s history through architecture. Tours take one and a half to two hours. Departure locations vary depending on the tour taken; these are listed online. The Institute also offers a virtual tour on its website.

Bus Tours
There are numerous hop-on, hop-off bus tours in Vancouver, averaging two hours in length for a whole circuit. Options include Gray Line of Vancouver (tel: (604) 879 3363; website: www.grayline.ca/vancouver) for C$30 for a two-day ticket and The Vancouver Trolley Company (tel: (604) 801 5515 or (888) 451 5581; website: www.vancouvertrolley.com) for C$28. Both offer more extensive tours, as does Landsea Tours (tel: (604) 662 7591; website: www.vancouvertours.com), whose four-hour Vancouver City Highlights tour costs C$51.40. Gray Line and Trolley Company both have numerous stops around the city, however, the easiest place for tourists to catch one is in front of the Vancouver Art Gallery on Robson Square. Landsea Tours arranges hotel pickup.

Other Tours
Dinner cruises are available from Accent Cruises (tel: (604) 688 6625; website: www.dinnercruises.com). The two-and-a-half-hour cruise (usually 1745-2015) costs C$25 or C$59.95 with a buffet dinner – departures are from Granville Island. Harbour Cruises (tel: (604) 688 7246 or (800) 663 1500; website: www.boatcruises.com) is based at the north foot of Denman Street (near West Georgia Street). The company offers trips around the harbour for C$19, as well as lunch and sunset dinner cruises for C$54.95 and C$69.95 respectively. Harbour tours take one hour and 15 minutes and departures are at 1430 daily from April to October, with additional sailings at 1130 and 1300, early May to late September. Lunch tours are from 1100 to 1500 (days vary) and dinner tours from 1900 to 2130 (daily, May to October).

Kayak tours are available from Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre (tel: (604) 689 7575 or (888) 425 2925; website: www.ecomarine.com) on Granville Island. A two-and-a-half introductory tour around English Bay and False Creek costs C$49 (daily 0930, 1300 and 1700). They also organize monthly moonlight paddles and rentals. Further afield, Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak Centre, 2156 Banbury Road, North Vancouver (tel: (604) 929 2268; website: www.deepcovekayak.com), offers tours of Indian Arm, an 18km-long (11-mile) fjord, starting at C$80.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Squamish: The town of Squamish lies one hour north of Vancouver on beautiful Howe Sound. The region offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing (notably on Smoke Bluffs) and, during winter, is the site of the largest gathering of bald eagles in North America. Nearby Shannon Falls has the third highest cascade in Canada at 335m (1,099ft). The Travel Information Centre, 37950 Cleveland Avenue (between Victoria Street and Vancouver Street), in Squamish (tel: (604) 892 9244; website: www.squamishchamber.bc.ca or www.coastandmountains.bc.ca), provides further information.

For a Whole Day

British Columbia’s wilderness: Dozens of tour operators offer trips to explore British Columbia’s famed wilderness. Tourism Vancouver (see Sightseeing) can provide advice, as well as brochures for companies offering whale watching, whitewater rafting, ocean kayaking, hiking, floatplane tours, off-road expeditions, yacht charters and salmon fishing trips.

Information about travel throughout the province is available from Super, Natural British Columbia (tel: (250) 387 1642 or (800) 435 5622; website: www.hellobc.com). Outdoorsy travellers can make their camping reservations online (website: www.discovercamping.ca).

Whistler: This area north of Vancouver is a delight for naturalists during summer, while in winter it morphs into the most popular ski resort on the West Coast, with over 200 varied ski runs on Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, including the longest vertical in North America. The less-active traveller will appreciate the shops, dining and entertainment in pedestrian-only Whistler Village. Whistler is accessible by car or coach on Highway 99, the Sea to Sky Highway (journey time – 2 hours), and by charter flights. Tourism Whistler is located at 4010 Whistler Way (tel: (604) 932 2394 or (800) 944 7853; website: www.tourismwhistler.com). As part of Vancouver’s stint as host of the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler will host the alpine, Nordic and sliding events.

Victoria: The capital of British Columbia lies 100km (62 miles) southwest of Vancouver. It is an elegant town with a British feel, distinguished by Victorian and neo-classical architecture. In the harbour area are the impressive Parliament Buildings and the Royal British Columbia Museum, which gives an overview of the region’s history. Not to be missed is afternoon tea in the Empress Hotel and the more than one million plants at Butchart Gardens on the city’s outskirts. Victoria is accessible in three hours, by road and a scenic ferry ride, with a downtown-to-downtown service offered by Pacific Coach Lines (tel: (604) 662 7575 or (800) 661 1725; website: www.pacificcoach.com). The fastest connection is by Helijet Airways (tel: (250) 382 6222 or (800) 665 4354; website: www.helijet.com), journey time – 35 minutes. Harbour Air (tel: (604) 274 1277 or (800) 665 0212; website: www.harbour-air.com) offers a trip by seaplane, with a return by coach and ferry for C$139. It also offers a whale-watching add-on, as does West Coast Air (tel: (604) 606 6888 or (800) 347 2222; website: www.westcoastair.com). Further information is available from Tourism Victoria, 812 Wharf Street, on the Inner Harbour (tel: (250) 953 2033; website: www.tourismvictoria.com).

Sport

Football and ice hockey enjoy a firm following in Vancouver. The BC Lions (tel: (604) 589 7627; website: www.bclions.com), of the Canadian Football League, play at BC Place Stadium, 777 Pacific Boulevard (tel: (604) 669 2300; website: www.bcplacestadium.com). These Lions were roaring in 2004, winning the CFL’s Western Division, ahead of the Edmonton Eskimos, Saskatchewan Roughriders, Winnipeg Blue Bombers and Calgary Stampeders, but losing out in the Grey Cup final. Quarterback Casey Printers, voted the league’s Outstanding Player of the year, was no doubt part of it, and may also have helped boost attendance by 13% to nearly 27,000 per game.

General Motors Place, 800 Griffiths Way, between Gerogia Street and Dunsmuir Street (tel: (604) 899 7400/44), is home to the Vancouver Canucks (tel: (604) 899 4625 or (888) 672 2229; website: www.canucks.com) of the National Hockey League. The Canucks only got as far as the Western Conference quarterfinals in 2003, despite coming in top of its division, and seventh overall in the NHL. Star player Markus Naslund’s 84 points placed him fourth in the league (but seventh for goal-scoring).

The city and area also host the Molson Indy car race, PGA golf tournaments and World Cup downhill skiing. But Vancouverites are much more interested in participating in sports than watching them. Opportunities abound, with wilderness right on the city’s doorstep. Kayaks can be hired on English Bay (see Tours of the City), there are mountain bike trails near the University of British Columbia and on Seymour Mountain, hikers relish the Grouse Grind and rollerbladers can be found everywhere. In the Vancouver area, there is scuba diving, paragliding and rock climbing for the adventurous, while whale-watching, fishing and camping are less strenuous options. Further information is available from Tourism Vancouver (see Sightseeing).

In the winter, snowboarders and downhill and cross-country skiers head for the slopes. There are easy runs on Seymour, Grouse and Cypress mountains, visible from the city, and it is possible to get a lot of runs in at world-class Whistler on a day trip. Vancouver and Whistler will jointly host the 2010 Winter Olympics (website: www.vancouver2010.com).

Tickets for sporting events are available from Ticketmaster’s Sportsline (tel: (604) 280 4400; website: www.ticketmaster.ca) and Show Time Tickets (tel: (604) 688 5000 or (800) 480 7469; website: www.showtimetickets.com).

Fitness Centres: Many Downtown hotels have fitness centres. There is also the YMCA of Greater Vancouver, 955 Burrard Street (tel: (604) 689 9622; website: www.vanymca.org). A C$10 day pass allows visitors access to two swimming pools, squash courts, a boxing room, gym with cardio and free weights, and a sauna and steamroom.

Golf: Vancouver has some spectacular links, with stunning views of the ocean or mountains. General information is available online (website: www.golfvancouver.com and www.bcgolfguide.com).

Furry Creek Golf and Country Club has an 18-hole, par-72 course, overlooking Howe Sound, just off the Sea to Sky Highway north of the city (tel: (604) 896 2224 or (888) 922 9462; website: www.furrycreekgolf.ca). Green fees vary (C$49-109), depending on the time of day and how far it is into the March-October season. A 35-minute drive south of Vancouver is the Morgan Creek Golf Course, 3500 Morgan Creek Way (tel: (604) 531 4653 or (800) 513 6555; website: www.morgancreekgolf.com). Green fees vary by day and season (C$49-95) and membership is not required.

Go-Time Events operates the West Coast Golf Shuttle (tel: (604) 730 1032 or (888) 599 6800; website: www.golf-shuttle.com or www.gotimeevents.com), which provides transportation to both of the above courses, as well as to others, with packages starting at C$89 (C$105 in high season).

Mountaineering: Among the many outdoorsy options in the wilderness north of Vancouver are the mountaineering courses and trekking expeditions organised by the Canada West Mountain School (tel: (604) 878 7007 or (888) 892 2266; website: www.themountainschool.com), a division of the not-for-profit Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia. Skill levels, trip duration and prices vary.

Skiing: Some of the best skiing in the world is available at Whistler-Blackcomb (tel: (604) 932 2394 or (800) 944 7853; website: www.tourismwhistler.com), only two hours north of Vancouver and accessible by scheduled coach and rail services, chartered air or by car. Adult lift tickets start at C$72 per day. For local hills, see Further Distractions.

Swimming: The best spots for summer swimming in Vancouver are free – at Jericho Beach, Kitsilano Beach (there is a salt-water pool here, for a fee) and, for those who dare to bare, Wreck Beach at the base of the bluffs near the University of British Columbia. There is a popular pool at Second Beach in Stanley Park, although it can become crowded with children. For serious lap swimmers, the Aquatic Centre, 1050 Beach Avenue, below the Burrard Bridge (tel: (604) 665 3424; website: www.parks.vancouver.bc.ca), is the city’s best choice. Rates are C$4.40 (concessions are available).

Tennis: The Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation (website: www.parks.vancouver.bc.ca) maintains 183 first-come first-served tennis courts within the city limits, including 10 at Kitsilano Beach and 15 at Stanley Park. A further six courts at Stanley Park are available by reservation (tel: (604) 605 8224), May to September only. Court fees are C$4.75 per half hour.

Shopping

Chic Robson Street (website: www.robsonstreet.ca) offers fashion boutiques, souvenir and speciality shops and, bizarrely, a fair number of Cuban cigar emporia. Yaletown (website: www.yaletowninfo.com) is the shopping ground of Vancouver’s young and aspirational, with designer fashions, art galleries and trendy home decor shops. Other popular areas include Gastown, Chinatown and Granville Island, with its wonderful public market (see Key Attractions).

Indoor shopping Downtown includes the Pacific Centre, Royal Centre and the Sinclair Centre, while Metrotown is a large suburban mall (with 500 shops and food outlets) connected to the SkyTrain station of the same name. For outdoors enthusiasts, the stretch of Broadway between Ontario Street and Cambie Street is a must – Mountain Equipment Co-op, 130 West Broadway (website: www.mec.ca), is the best known of the clutch of sporting goods stores here.

When it comes to souvenir shopping, vacuum-packed British Columbia smoked salmon is a popular, easy-to-carry choice. The most original gifts, however, are Pacific Northwest and Inuit arts and crafts – soapstone sculptures, carved masks, totem poles, pottery, jewellery and prints. Galleries worth visiting include Circle Craft, an artists’ co-operative (website: www.circlecraft.net) and Eagle Spirit Gallery (website: www.eaglespiritgallery.com), both on Granville Island, Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery, 1024 Mainland Street in Yaletown (website: www.coastalpeoples.com), the well-respected Marion Scott Gallery, 481 Howe Street (website: www.marionscottgallery.com), or one of the many galleries on Water Street in Gastown. Lovers of international contemporary art can try the Buschlen Mowatt Galleries, 1445 West Georgia Street (website: www.buschlenmowatt.com), or, more uniquely, can take longer to decide if they like a piece – works curated by the gallery hang in the rooms of the Listel Vancouver, 1300 Robson Street. South of Downtown, there are more than a dozen galleries on Granville Street between Fifth Avenue and 14th Avenue (website: www.southgranvillerise.com). The Arts and Cultural Guide to British Columbia (website: www.art-bc.com) provides more listings.

Shops are generally open Monday to Saturday 0930/1000-1800 (until 2100 Thursday and Friday) and Sunday 1200-1700. There is a non-refundable provincial sales tax (PST) of 7% in addition to the 7% federal Goods & Services Tax (GST). Foreign visitors may claim a rebate of the GST paid on goods that they take out of Canada within 60 days of purchase as well as on short-term accommodation. The total pre-tax value, however, must exceed C$200, with a C$50 minimum for each individual invoice. The Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (tel: (902) 432 5608 or (800) 668 4748; website: www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors) provides further information and forms. A number of private companies will facilitate the process for a hefty fee. Allow extra time at the airport for customs officers to stamp forms and inspect goods.

Culture

Vancouver is a young city and it shows in the city’s cultural scene. While there are established companies in the traditional forms of classical music, opera, dance and theatre, none stand out in particular. It is the smaller outfits and the up-and-comers that make the cultural scene interesting and give a bit of an edge to things. Vancouver’s performing arts season generally runs from October to April. In summer, there are special concerts and numerous festivals.

Information on performing arts can be found in The Georgia Straight (website: www.straight.com), a free weekly newspaper, and the Thursday editions of the daily newspapers, The Vancouver Sun and The Province (website: www.vancouversun.com). The Alliance for Arts and Culture, 938 Howe Street (tel: (604) 681 3535; website: www.allianceforarts.com), is a good source of information for drop-in visitors (Monday to Friday 0900-1700).

Tickets can be purchased directly from the venues or from Ticketmaster’s Artsline (tel: (604) 280 3311; website: www.ticketmaster.ca) or Show Time Tickets (tel: (604) 688 5000 or (800) 480 7469; website: www.showtimetickets.com). Half-price tickets are available on the day of the performance from Tickets Tonight, at the booth in the tourist information centre, 200 Burrard Street (tel: (604) 684 2787; website: www.ticketstonight.ca).

Music: Vancouver offers the full range of classical music, from large symphony and opera productions to intimate chamber groups and choral societies – notably the Vancouver Recital Society (tel: (604) 602 0363; website: www.vanrecital.com) and the Vancouver Cantata Singers (tel: (604) 730 8856; website: www.cantata.org). The Chan Centre for the Performing Arts, on the University of British Columbia campus (tel: (604) 822 2697/9197; website: www.chancentre.com), has three stages, including the 1,400-seat Chan Shun Concert Hall. The Orpheum Theatre, 601 Smithe Street (tel: (604) 665 3050; website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres), hosts choral concerts and is the residence of the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra (tel: (604) 876 3434; website: www.vancouversymphony.ca). The Queen Elizabeth Theatre, 649 Cambie Street (tel: (604) 665 3050; website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres), stages a variety of performances from classical to contemporary. It is also the home of Ballet BC (see below) and the Vancouver Opera (tel: (604) 683 0222; website: www.vanopera.bc.ca), the third largest opera company in Canada.

Theatre: Vancouver has a lively theatre scene, with numerous community and student productions supplementing more than 30 permanent fixtures. Granville Island (tel: (604) 666 5784; website: www.granvilleisland.com) is home to the Arts Club Theatre’s Granville Island Stage, 1585 Johnston Street (tel: (604) 687 1644; website: www.artsclub.com). The Granville Island Cultural Society (tel: (604) 687 3005; website: www.giculturalsociety.org) manages the 240-seat Waterfront Theatre, 1412 Cartwright Street, and Performance Works, a black box studio at number 1218. Elsewhere on the island, the antics of the comedy improvisation troupe TheatreSports (tel: (604) 738 7013; website: www.vtsl.com) enliven the New Revue Stage, 1601 Johnston Street.

The larger venues Downtown include the Queen Elizabeth Theatre (see Music above), and the adjacent Vancouver Playhouse, Hamilton Street and Dunsmuir Street, home of the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company (tel: (604) 873 3311; website: www.vancouverplayhouse.com), the largest regional theatre company in the province. Nearby, The Centre in Vancouver for Performing Arts, 777 Homer Street (tel: (604) 602 0616; website: www.centreinvancouver.com), hosts large-scale theatrical productions and other events. Avant-garde theatre and dance can be seen at the Firehall Arts Centre, 280 East Cordova Street (tel: (604) 689 0926; website: www.firehallartscentre.ca), to the east of Gastown.

The annual Bard on the Beach Shakespeare festival (tel: (604) 739 0559; website: www.bardonthebeach.org) is a summer fixture in Vanier Park that runs from June through September.

The Greater Vancouver Professional Theatre Alliance (website: www.theatre.ubc.ca/gvpta) publishes a seasonal Theatre Guide (tel: (604) 608 6799; website: http://communicopia.net/app/services/calendar1/index.cfm).

Dance: Vancouver is one of Canada’s most important dance centres, with around two dozen professional dance companies operating in the area, performing both classical and modern dance, as well as traditional Japanese and Chinese dance. The Scotiabank Dance Centre, 677 Davie Street (tel: (604) 606 6400; website: www.thedancecentre.ca), is a useful resource and also hosts performances. In July, the Dancing on the Edge festival (website: www.mcsquared.com/edge) gives dozens of independent choreographers from Canada and abroad a chance to show their stuff. Ballet British Columbia (tel: (604) 732 5003; website: www.balletbc.com) performs at the Queen Elizabeth Theatre (see Music above). The Vancouver East Cultural Centre, 1895 Venables Street (tel: (604) 251 1363; website: www.vecc.bc.ca), known locally as ‘the Cultch’, is located in a former church and showcases contemporary dance, in addition to theatre and live music. The innovative Kokoro Dance Company (tel: (604) 662 7441; website: www.kokoro.ca), inspired by butoh (a modern Japanese dance form) performs at various venues.

Film: Vancouver is one of the largest centres for film and television production in North America. In 2003, there were 169 productions, of which 47 were feature films. The city has stood in for many US cities in celluloid (including the first five seasons of The X-Files) but there have been no well known films that actually portray the city as itself.

Both the industry and filmgoers attend the Vancouver International Film Festival (tel: (604) 683 3456 (information line, September-October only) or 685 0260; website: www.viff.org) in the autumn, when more than 300 films from some 50 countries are screened. The Out on Screen gay and lesbian film festival (tel: (604) 844 1615; website: www.outonscreen.com) takes place in August.
Mainstream cinemas once lined Granville Street’s ‘theatre row’, but with expected closures, only one will remain after 2005: the Granville Cineplex Odeon, at number 855 (tel: (604) 684 4000; website: www.cineplex.ca). Instead, Downtown’s eastern fringes host the main blockbuster: the Cinemark Tinseltown, 88 West Pender Street (tel: (604) 806 0799; website: www.cinemark.com), has 12 screens and stadium seating. The Pacific Cinematheque, 1131 Howe Street (tel: (604) 688 3456; website: www.cinematheque.bc.ca), is the city’s main repertory cinema and offers numerous cross-cultural and multimedia events in addition to a wide range of film programming. The city is notable for having a relatively large number of single-screen independent movie houses, including The Ridge, 3131 Arbutus (tel: (604) 738 6311; website: www.ridgetheatre.com).

Cultural Events: Vancouver has a year-round programme of special events, festivals and sporting events. The year kicks off in January with the Polar Bear Swim, when hundreds of brave/foolish swimmers dash into the chilly waters of English Bay. The influence of the city’s Chinese community is felt during the Chinese New Year celebrations, generally in early February, and again with the Dragon Boat Festival in June, when teams of rowers compete in fiercely decorated boats. The summer sees events and festivals showcasing a variety of media, from jazz and chamber music to comedy and theatre, although two of the best festivals, the International Film Festival and International Writers’ (and Readers’) Festival, hold off until the cooler months of September and October.

Literary Notes: Some 1,500 authors live in the province, including such popular authors as Douglas Coupland and the science-fiction writer William Gibson. Both men captured a certain zeitgeist with their works. Coupland’s novel Generation X (1991), about disaffected 20-somethings, gave birth to the moniker for the post-babyboom generation. Gibson, who produced Neuromancer (1984), was at the forefront of defining the cyberpunk ethos and envisioning a dystopian future based on where technology appears to be taking society.

Evelyn Lau captured the city’s seamier side in her autobiographical Runaway: Diary of a Street Kid (1989). Nick Bantock of Griffin & Sabine (1991) fame lives on nearby Bowen Island, while WP Kinsella, whose Shoeless Joe (1982) was the basis for the film Field of Dreams (1989), lives just south of Vancouver. Other famous local writers include Bill Bisset, George Bowering and George Woodcock. One of the area’s earliest writers was the Native poet and performer Pauline Johnson (also known as Tekahionwake), who settled in Vancouver in 1909 and published Legends of Vancouver (1911) two years later. Many of the city’s authors (as well as big-name authors from elsewhere) attend the Vancouver International Writers (& Readers) Festival (tel: (604) 681 6330; website: www.writersfest.bc.ca) in October.

Nightlife

Vancouver offers nightlife to suit all tastes, including nightclubs, pubs, lounges and karaoke bars. Popular areas for going out include Gastown, Yaletown and around Granville Street, which has become increasingly popular of late. The largest cluster of Vancouver’s gay establishments can be found in the Davie Village, on Davie Street west of Granville Street.

In Vancouver, there are also a fair number of members-only clubs catering to all sorts of crowds (many of these have fairly lax membership policies but it is best to check ahead) and restaurants often double up as bars. Any of these may offer live music on some nights. The scene is evolving since licensing laws changed a couple of years ago, with bars and clubs now allowed to serve alcohol until 0400, subject to local approval – individual venues may close earlier. The minimum drinking age is 19 years and the price of an average drink will set you back around C$5.

Entertainment listings can be found in the free weekly alternative paper, The Georgia Straight (website: www.straight.com), as well as in the Thursday edition of the daily Vancouver Sun (website: www.vancouversun.com). Information on the city’s gay and lesbian scene is available in the free weekly Xtra West. A number of local websites (www.clubvibes.com, www.vancouverplus.ca and www.livemusicvancouver.com) also have detailed venue and event listings.

Bars: In Gastown, the Picadilly Pub (‘the Pic’ to the locals), 620 West Pender Street, is a popular spot and sometimes features live bands. Granville Street and surrounds is becoming more and more of a nighttime destination: try Ginger Sixty Two, a hip lounge at number 1219, or Caprice Lounge and Grill, a chilled bar with upstairs nightclub at number 967. For something rather more casual, the Loose Moose, around the corner at 724 Nelson Street, is a decent spot for cheap food and beer. A couple of great spots to down a martini are Zin, 1277 Robson Street, and the classic Delilah’s, 1789 Comox Street, in the West End. Subeez, 891 Homer Street, draws a similar crowd for drinks and dinner in its funky, warehouse-like space on the edge of Yaletown.

The city also has a couple of good brewpubs – Steamworks Brewing Company, 375 Water Street, in Gastown, and the Yaletown Brewing Company, 1111 Mainland Street. Facing each other across False Creek are The Riley Waterfront Caf, 1661 Granville Street (below the bridge, access from Beach Avenue), and Bridges, on Granville Island – both fun spots in the summer. Also on Granville Island, the post-theatre crowd congregates at the Backstage Lounge, beside the Arts Club Theatre.

East Vancouver has more of an alternative edge. Waazubee, 1622 Commercial Drive, is a favourite watering hole among the locals and it also serves reasonable meals. Bukowski’s Bar and Bistro, 1447 Commercial Drive, is a popular spot for beat poetry and also has occasional live bands. Caf Deux Soleils, 2096 Commercial Drive, offers some folk and rock in the evenings.

The pub-bar at the Dufferin Hotel, 900 Seymour Street, offers a kitsch mix of cabaret-style entertainment to a mostly gay crowd, while The Fountainhead Pub, 1025 Davie Street, is a more laid-back spot with street-side tables that attracts gays and lesbians.

Casinos: The Great Canadian Casino offers slot machines, card games and roulette at a number of locations, including one in the Holiday Inn, 709 West Broadway (website: www.gcgaming.com), which is open 1000-0600. The Royal City Star Riverboat Casino, based at New Westminster Quay, on the Fraser River, near the New Westminster SkyTrain Station (website: www.royalcitystar.bc.ca), is a replica paddlewheeler with gaming tables and slots and is open 1000-0400. Admission is to those aged 19 years or older – passports are not required, although younger patrons may need ID to prove their age. Neither of the above casinos charges an admission fee or has a specific dress code.

Clubs: For nights of house, hip-hop and the like, two of the hottest spots are both on Water Street in Gastown. Shine, at number 364, and Sonar, at number 66. Granville Street, though, is evolving into the city’s club district: The Roxy, at number 932, draws weekend clubbers for chart dance hits, while Caprice Nightclub, at number 965, has everything from techno to retro on two levels in a former cinema. In the surrounding area, both Voda, 783 Homer Street, and Skybar, 670 Smithe Street, draw a chic crowd – the latter’s rooftop patio is a bonus. DV8 Lounge, 515 Davie Street, has a more alternative edge, with random art showings and eclectic musical offerings, plus food. For gay visitors, The Odyssey, 1251 Howe Street, offers club hits and theme nights to a mostly male, younger crowd.

Live Music: The renovated Commodore Ballroom, 868 Granville Street, is a great place to catch established acts and well-known artists, who also play at the Queen Elizabeth, 649 Cambie Street, Orpheum, 601 Smithe Street, and Vogue, 918 Granville Street, theatres. The really big acts take over General Motors Place or even BC Place Stadium. For up-and-coming rock bands, The Brickyard (punk and alternative), 315 Carral Street, and the Railway Club (more mainstream), 579 Dunsmuir Street, are good bets. The Yale, 1300 Granville Street, is considered the place for blues in Vancouver. The top spot for jazz in the city is The Cellar, 3611 West Broadway (at Dunbar Street; website: www.cellarjazz.com). Live jazz is also played nightly at O’Douls, in the Listel Vancouver, 1300 Robson Street. The Vancouver Jazz Society website (www.vancouverjazz.com) has loads of info on the local scene.

City Statistics

Location: British Columbia, Canada.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 582,045 (city); 2 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix (by mother tongue): 65% English, 13% Chinese, 4% Punjabi, 2% German, 6% other European, 5% other Asian, 5% other.
Religion: Not available.
Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC, 60Hz; flat two-pin and grounded three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3C (37F).
Average July temp: 17C (63F).
Annual rainfall: 1,117mm (44.3 inches).
Annual snowfall: 549mm (22 inches)

Special Events

Polar Bear Swim, annual swim in the icy winter waters (website: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/events/polarbear), 1 Jan, English Bay
Chinese New Year Celebration, parade along Pender and Keefer streets, Feb
CelticFest Vancouver (website: www.celticfestvancouver.com), mid-Mar, various venues
Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival (website: www.playhousewinefest.com), mid-Mar, Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre and various venues
New Music West Festival (website: www.newmusicwest.com), Nov, various venues
Vancouver International Children’s Festival (website: www.vancouverchildrensfestival.com), late May, Vanier Park
Dragon Boat Festival (website: www.adbf.com), mid-Jun, Plaza of Nations, False Creek
Vancouver International Jazz Festival (website: www.coastaljazz.ca), late Jun-early Jul, various venues
Bard on the Beach (website: www.bardonthebeach.org), Jun-Sep, Vanier Park
Dancing on the Edge Festival, independent choreographers (website: www.mcsquared.com/edge/), Jul, Firehall Arts Centre
Vancouver Folk Music Festival (website: www.thefestival.bc.ca), mid-Jul, Jericho Beach
Vancouver Chamber Music Festival (website: www.vanrecital.com), Jul-Aug, Crofton House School
Vancouver International Comedy Festival (website: www.comedyfest.com), mid-late Oct, Granville Street area
Molson Indy Vancouver, CART auto racing (website: www.molsonindy.com/vancouver), late Jul, Concord Pacific Place
Vancouver Gay Pride Week (website: www.vanpride.bc.ca), late Jul, various venues
Celebration of Light, fireworks (website: www.celebration-of-light.com), Wed and Sat, Jul/Aug, English Bay
Festival Vancouver, opera, classical and world music (website: www.festivalvancouver.bc.ca), early Aug, various venues
Out On Screen, gay and lesbian film festival (website: www.outonscreen.com), Aug, various venues
Pacific National Exhibition (PNE), agricultural fair, amusement park and concerts (website: www.pne.bc.ca), Aug-Sep, Hastings Park
Air Canada Championship, PGA Tour (website: www.pgatour.com), Aug-Sep, Northview Golf Course
Vancouver Fringe Festival (website: www.vancouverfringe.com), early-mid-Sep, various venues on and around Granville Island
Vancouver International Film Festival (website: www.viff.org), late Sep-mid-Oct, various cinemas
Vancouver International Writers (& Readers) Festival (website: www.writersfest.bc.ca), late Oct, Granville Island
Carol Ships Parade of Lights (website: www.carolships.org), 1-23 Dec, Vancouver Harbour

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: C$1.50-C$2
33cl bottle of beer: C$1.50-C$2
Financial Times newspaper: C$2
36-exposure colour film: C$8.50
City-centre bus ticket: C$2.25
Adult Canadian football ticket: C$24-C$64
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From C$25

1 Canadian Dollar (C$1) = 0.42; US$0.80; A$1.02; 0.62
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005