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Nightlife
It’s at night that Tokyo really comes alive. Busy seven nights a week, the vibrant Roppongi district has a profusion of bars, clubs and discos, frequented by the smart ex-pat set as well as servicemen from the US military bases. Shinjuku, on the other hand, offers a more Japanese scene, with an incredible variety of eating and drinking places, from huge beer halls to tiny intimate theme bars, cinemas, clubs, massage parlours and Japan’s largest gay scene.
Dress codes are rarely overly strict. Entrance fees to clubs are high but usually include a couple of drinks. Cover charges are common in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs) and bars. Drink prices very much depend on the surroundings and range from the reasonable to the stratospheric. If in doubt, do ask before ordering. Should you be tempted by one of the city’s many ‘hostess clubs’, be aware that a beer in the company of an attractive companion can easily cost 10,000. Tokyo’s gay bars are clustered in the Shinjuku 2–chome area. They are generally wary of foreign customers and are best explored with a Japanese companion. Several major hotels have ‘sky bars’, offering impressive night views of the city.
There are no specific licensing hours in Tokyo, although the minimum drinking age is 20 years. Admission fees and opening times vary widely and the Tokyo nightlife scene is ever changing – for listings of what’s on and information about the latest hotspots, visitors should check the English-language Metropolis (website: http://metropolis.japantoday.com/default.asp) or Tokyo Journal (website: www.tokyo.to).
Bars: For a typically Japanese ‘pub’ experience, izakaya offer beer, sake and a huge range of Japanese dishes. Among the most accessible to foreigners are the chains, Murasaki and Tengu. Both have numerous locations across the city and have a lively atmosphere, reasonable prices and convenient picture menus. For a more international scene, head to Roppongi and check out the brash, foreigner-friendly Gas Panic, 3–15–24 Roppongi. At nearby Castillo, 6–1–8 Roppongi, the non-stop disco classics mean the tiny dancefloor is often busier than the bar. For a pint of Guinness, try The Dubliners, 3–28–9 Shinjuku, or experience rock‘n’roll Japanese style at the loud and seedy Rolling Stone, 3–2–7 Shinjuku. Las Chicas, 5–47–6 Jingumae, Harajuku, is a trendy bar/restaurant complex; the leafy courtyard is a fine place to drink on a summer’s evening. Bar Isn’t It?, Roppongi, Minatoku, opposite the Shibuya Bunkamura art centre (see Culture), is a popular hangout and has the added attraction that all food and drinks are 500. For a more refined experience, try Hotel Okura’s Highlander, 2–10–4 Toranomon, a smart bar offering a selection of over 200 whiskies, or the New York Bar, a sophisticated jazz bar on the 52nd floor of the swanky Park Hyatt Hotel, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku.
Casinos: Casino gambling is strictly controlled in Japan and although there are currently moves towards liberalisation, venues are still very limited. Central Tokyo’s only casino is in the Tokyo Dome complex, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo Ku. This casino is open to non-members, although Westerners might find the slot machines and blackjack on offer fairly tame. The dress code is smart – a jacket and tie are required for men. The minimum age for entry is 20 years and a passport is required.
Clubs: Club Asia, 1–8 Maruyamacho, Shibuya, hosts major DJ events and ‘The Ring’, a much-anticipated monthly gay/straight dance party. Take a break from the dancefloor to surf the Internet in an adjacent room. The Liquid Room, 1–20–1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, is a trendy venue for live events and one-off club nights, while Velfarre, 7–14–22 Roppongi, is a huge multi-level disco palace with a strict dress code and a high admission charge. The slick Lexington Queen, 3–13–14 Roppongi, is much loved by the showbiz/model crowd and a good place to spot celebrities, or you can find the hip student crowd at the progressive venue, Yellow, 1–10–11 Nishi-Azabu. For a change of rhythm, try Salsa Sudada, 7–13–8 Roppongi, for a heady mix of cocktails and Latin sounds.
Live music: Tokyo’s local pop and rock scene revolves around ‘live houses’ – dark disco-like venues with a small stage. Crocodile, 6–18–8 Jingumae, Harajuku, and Club Quattro, 32–13 Udagawacho, Shibuya, are among the best known names. Milk, 1–13–3 Nishi-Ebisu, a hip, indie rock music venue, is a club/live house hybrid. Tokyo’s premier jazz venue is Blue Note, 6–3–16 Minami-Aoyama, which regularly attracts top international acts. The two main venues for major rock acts are The Budokan, 2–3 Kitanomaru-Koen, Chiyoda-ku, and Tokyo Dome, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku. Tickets are pricey and should be reserved well in advance.
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Nightlife