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Nightlife
St Petersburg has a vibrant, varied nightlife – ranging from opera and ballet to sleazy nightclubs and acid house raves – and is emerging, after some 75 years of Communist control, as the rock music capital of Russia. However, the scene is constantly changing – new venues open, old ones close. So the best advice is to check the weekly listings in the St Petersburg Times (website: www.sptimes.ru/current/events/gigs.htm).
The Russian mafia – a collective term for various groups of gangsters, criminals and racketeers – control most of the nightlife and gambling in St Petersburg. However, most visitors will have no contact with this aspect of Russian life and if you do happen to sit next to a gangster in a smart restaurant, you are more than likely to assume the man is a successful businessman. Caution should be exercised, however, especially with casinos – you should only frequent venues that come recommended.
Most of the decent nightlife is in the city centre. Bars open from 1100 and start closing around 2400, although some remain open until 0200 or 0400. Drinking regulations are strict, with the minimum drinking age set at 21 years. The average price of a drink is US$3. Nightclubs have varying hours but you will find them open as early as noon and closing as late as 0900. Casual dress is the norm, although you should smarten up if you plan a visit to the theatre, ballet or to a classical concert.
Bars: Although it is a bit scruffy and smoky, Cynic, Goncharnaya ulitsa 4, is an excellent venue for those wishing to settle down with a teapot of vodka to watch occasional spontaneous dance performance by girls who have watched Coyote Ugly too many times. The Idiot, Moiki reki naberezhnaya 82, is popular with the smart-set, who flock here in droves for the friendly service, vegetarian menu and used English-language newspapers and books that are available for perusal. Mollie’s, Rubensshtyena ulitsa 36, provides the international comfort that people have come to expect from an Irish pub – this is also a good introduction to the ex-pat community of the city. Punters seeking the downright weird should check out Sakvoyazh dlya beremennoy shpionki (A Briefcase for a Pregnant Spy), Malaya Konushnaya ulitsa 11. One room boasts tables and chairs without legs, which are attached to chains that dangle from the ceiling and floor. Propoganda, Fontanki reki naberezhnaya 40, is filled to the brim with kitschy Soviet-era decor and posters.
Casinos: Premiere, situated in the Titan cinema, Nevsky prospekt 47, is a reasonably safe gambling venue with cards and roulette tables. Open 1200-0900. Venice, Korablestroiteley ulitsa 21, is another upmarket venue, which opens 1900-1600 and is frequented by wealthy Russians and foreigners. A passport is required at both casinos and the dress code is smart-casual.
Clubs: At Apraksin dvor 14, Money Honey is located downstairs, with the sweet sounds of rockabilly emanating, while the upstairs City Club caters to an older crowd who like a bit of blues in their rock. Konnyushenny dvor, Griboedova kanala nabrezhnaya 5, is spectacular for clubbers interested in thumping Russian pop music and other wonders of chart-hit wonderland. Located in a former bomb shelter, Griboyedov, Voronezhsakaya ulitsa 2a, is definitely the place to be for an array of house and techno music.
Live music: Fish Fabrique, Pushkinskaya ulitsa 10, is perfect for visitors wishing to see local rock and alternative bands. Jazz Club, Zagorodny prospekt 27, is where to head for the Russian spin on jazz, with the modern stuff played on Friday and Saturday nights. The Jazz Philharmonic Hall, Zagorodny prospekt 27, is the venue for traditional and Dixieland jazz, performed in an auditorium but with a more intimate venue upstairs, in the Ellington Hall. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club, Liteiny ploschad 33, has live bands on at midnight, every night. It is open 24 hours a day and has a reputation for great food but exceedingly lousy service.
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Nightlife