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Nightlife
Despite economic hardship and high unemployment, Sofians love to go out and party. Day and night, the countless bars and cafs throughout the city are heaving - a phenomenon that never fails to amaze foreign visitors. Unfortunately, the public transport system completely shuts down from 0100-0500. However, to illustrate just how night-orientated the city is, it is worth noting that a number of restaurants operate 24 hours, the best ones in the centre being La Gondola, 16 Vitosha Boulevard, Europe, 35 Alabin Ulica, and Breza, 45 Nikola Petrov Ulica. There are also several 24-hour shops.
The biggest concentration of bars and cafs lies to either side of Vitosha Boulevard. Irish pubs have hit Bulgaria and, as always, pull a mixed clientele of locals and ex-pats. Bars are busy until midnight, after which people move on to nightclubs, which are fairly dispersed through out town. Heavily frowned upon during Communist times, homosexuality is gradually becoming tolerated and it is now considered quite cool to be gay.
The absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours and ages, although one must be over 16 to purchase alcohol. Most bars and cafs stay open until midnight. While locally produced wine and rakiya are excellent and reasonably priced (Lv7-10 for a bottle of table wine or Lv15-30 or more for a bottle of reserve wine), it is currently fashionable to drink imported beers and spirits (between Lv2-5), which are generally three times the price of the local tipple (between Lv1-2). Cigarettes are cheap (tobacco is one of Bulgaria’s main exports), so don’t expect smoke-free bars. Nightclub admission is also cheap, on average Lv3. Sofians are open-minded when it comes to dress, although some clubs only allow admission once ‘no neck’ bouncers have checked you out.
Check the English-language weekly Sofia Echo (website: www.sofiaecho.com) and the monthly Sofia City Info Guide for information on ‘what’s on’ in Sofia.
Bars: Black Label, in the Military Club, 8 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, is a classy low-lit bar with a stunning choice of whiskies and bourbons, open until 0500. J J Murphy’s, 6 Karnigradska Ulica, one block west of Vitosha Boulevard, is a busy Irish pub serving good food, popular with Bulgarians and ex-pats alike, while Stateside, 34 Stambolijski Boulevard, attracts the Yanks with Tex-Mex food and live music. Beer Hall Schweik, 1A Vitosha Boulevard, is a pseudo-Czech beer hall serving imported beers and food.
Casinos: Casino Princess, in the Hotel Princess, 31 Maria Louiza Boulevard, claims to be Bulgaria’s biggest casino. The luxurious International Casino Club Sofia is situated within the Sheraton Hotel, 5 Ploshtad Sveta Nedelya. Both require a passport for entry (minimum age 18 years) but do not operate a dress code.
Clubs: Sofia’s clubs play music ranging from techno to jazz and rock to salsa. Caramba, 4 Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, follows the glitterati taste for Latin music and Chervilo, in the Military Club, 8 Tsar Osvoboditel, features house music courtesy of Turkish DJs. The candle-lit bar, open throughout the week, offers a comfortably sleazy atmosphere with dark wooden furniture and red velvet upholstery. The disco opens Wednesday (Latino night with salsa lessons and sangria), Friday and Saturday (techno). Dali, 6 Shipka Ulica, is a particularly fashionable disco, while Spartakus, in the underpass in front of Sofia University, between Vassil Levski Boulevard and Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, was the city’s first gay club and now attracts a mixed, young and trendy clientele. Swingin’ Hall, 8 Dragan Tsankov Boulevard, close to the Vassil Levski Stadium, is also young and cool, with two live contemporary bands and dance music in between.
Live music: For a true Balkan experience, spend the evening at a restaurant featuring live Bulgarian folk music. The best are Chevermeto, 106 Maria Louiza Boulevard, Boyansko Hanche, 1962 Boyana Residential Area, Sorishte, and Vodenitzata, set in an old mill in the Dragalevtzi district, close to the chairlift. All three are presented in typical rustic folksy style. Bulgarian pop-folk music, chalga, can be danced to at Erma, 25 Alabin Ulica, and Pri Kmeta (The Mayor’s), 3 Paris Ulica, on Thursday and Friday night.
Bourbon Street, 114 Vassil Levski Boulevard, offers occasional jazz and blues gigs, along with the rock ‘n’ roll concerts, while Backstage, 100 Vassil Levski Boulevard, offers a range of live music each night of the week. Foreign rock stars can be spotted at the Natsionalen Dvorets na Kulturata or National Palace of Culture (NDK), 1 Ploshtad Bulgaria, Yuzhen Park (tel: (02) 9166 2300; website: www.ndk.bg), which hosts rock concerts. The box office is to the left of the main entrance.
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Nightlife