World City Guide

Mini Guide of San Francisco

City Overview

San Francisco was once simply Yerba Buena (Good Herb), a Spanish fishing village with a population of 400, set on a large natural harbour. At the tip of a 120-sq-kilometre (46.6-sq-mile) peninsula (bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, the north by the Golden Gate Strait and north-east by the Bay) the area is made up of more than a dozen steep hills. About 75 years later, when the West Coast region became US territory in 1847, it was renamed San Francisco, after the old Franciscan mission nearby. The city quickly mushroomed – the Gold Rush of 1849 inspiring a migration so rapid that seekers almost fell into the Pacific, in their desperation for a new life. The population soared to more than 300,000.

They came from the west but also from the east – thousands of people escaped famine in China for a hard life on the railroads, which were created to connect the isolated city with the rest of the country, a project completed in 1869. During this time, Chinese workers were subjected to appalling discriminatory laws. Japanese immigrants came, too, but settled separately, establishing their own businesses in the Western Addition neighbourhood and, later, what is now Japantown. Chinatown and Japantown now constitute the biggest Asian enclave outside Asia, and the city today takes pride in its diverse population and has come to be known for its tolerance overall.

Also changing the landscape of the city was the devastating earthquake of 1906, the fires of which all but levelled its wooden Victorian homes – a handful that survived are the city’s famed and colourful ‘Painted Ladies’ in Alamo Square. Ever resilient, San Franciscans rebuilt their city on the sea. In place of horse-drawn streetcars that traversed Russian and Nob Hills, the introduction of cable cars at the approach of the 20th century changed the way residents got around. When the Golden Gate Bridge opened in 1937, it charted yet another horizon for man and nature working as one and soon becoming the symbol of a city that has it all.

Modern San Francisco retains its relationship between materialism and money on the one hand and cutting-edge thought and progressive politics on the other. In the 1950s, the bohemian Beat movement grew up and out of San Francisco’s Little Italy neighbourhood of North Beach, which helped foster the city’s importance in the arts. The counter culture flowered in the Haight Ashbury neighbourhood (now just called the Haight) during the 1967 Summer of Love and the gay community fought for and found a home in Castro and Polk Street, where they could live openly and happily.

The city saw rapid growth in dotcom industries (located South of Market, and in nearby Silicon Valley) and is now recoiling from downturns in that same area. San Francisco is the financial capital of the West Coast and once a prime shipping gateway to the Pacific, although most cargo ships now head for Oakland. Tourism is the key industry and nets San Francisco billions of dollars each year (US$7.62 billion in 2000). The Bay, which fits neatly between the Golden Gate Bridge to the west and the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge to the east, is home to 14 small islands, including Alcatraz, Angel, Yerba Buena and Treasure. These can be the perfect escape from the city.

San Francisco has a mild year-round climate but it should not be confused with hot and sunny Southern California. As a testament to the moderate temperature, many homes do not have central heating systems and outdoor dining may be enjoyed almost year-round, thanks to the frequent use of outdoor patio heaters. A handy rain- and wind-resistant coat is always advised for those foggy, chilly days.

One would be hard pressed to name another city positioned so glamorously, between the ocean and Sierra Nevada mountains to the east and west and redwood forests and the California desert to the north and south. Alistair Cooke, the British-born commentator, summed up this most beautiful and breathtaking of American cities as a ‘fortuitous mating of marine grandeur and terrestrial snugness’. It remains the best summation on record, of this city, perched precipitously at the edge of the world.

Getting There By Air

San Francisco International Airport (SFO)
Tel: (650) 821 4001. Fax: (650) 821 4004.
Website: www.flysfo.com

Situated 25km (15 miles) southeast of the city, off Routes 101 and 280, San Francisco International Airport is the fifth busiest in the USA and eighth busiest in the world, handling 1,260 flights daily. In 2002, total passengers numbered 31,457,422.

Major airlines: More than 50 major airlines operate in and out of San Francisco International, including US carriers United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522; website: www.ual.com) and American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.aa.com). Other airlines include British Airways, China Airlines, Air Canada, Japan Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and Virgin Atlantic. Domestic airlines provide regular flights to the rest of the USA. They include Alaska Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Hawaiian Airlines and US Airways.

Airport facilities: These include banks, ATMs, bureaux de change and numerous bars and restaurants, gift and speciality shopping, including duty-free outlets. Five public information booths and a Bureau of Consular Affairs are on site. An Air Train takes passengers to nine airport stations and to car hire operators, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National, InterRent and Thrifty.

Business facilities: A business centre, located in the Airport Travel Agency (tel: (650) 877 0422), provides fax services, airline tickets, luggage storage, shipping boxes and hotel reservations. A number of airline lounges are available for frequent flyer cardholders. Conference and business facilities are available at the Global Communications Centre and the AT&T International Calling Centre in the international terminal.

Transport to the city: Shuttles, buses, taxis and limousines are all readily available. American Airporter Shuttle (tel: (415) 202 0733) provides a 24-hour, door-to-door service. The cost is US$15. SFO Airporter Inc (tel: (650) 624 0500) charges US$13.50 and provides service Downtown, every 15-30 minutes (0615-2400). Taxis are metered and the fare to the downtown area is approximately US$30. San Mateo County Transit aka SamTrans (tel: (800) 660 4287) runs bus services to the Transbay Terminal at Mission Street. Journey times vary between 25 minutes and 45 minutes, depending on traffic. Public transportation leaves from the blue zone on the airport’s lower level. Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) (tel: (415) 989 2278; website: www.bart.gov) now operates public transport from the airport to Downtown and other areas. The cost, based on distance traveled, starts at US$4.70. Trains run from early morning until evening, with the last train at 2354 nightly.

Oakland International Airport (OAK):
Tel: (510) 563 3300.
Website: www.oaklandairport.com

Located across the Bay, 32km (20 miles) from Downtown San Francisco, Oakland receives mainly domestic but some international charter flights and may be a less expensive gateway to the Bay Area.

Major airlines: Around a dozen airlines fly to and from OAK. The major US airline include United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522; website: www.ual.com) and American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.aa.com). Other carriers include Alaska Airlines, Aloha Airlines, America West, Continental, Delta, JetBlue, Mexicana Airlines, Northwest, Southwest Airlines and US Airways.

Airport facilities: Facilities include banks, ATMs, shoeshine, Internet access, travel insurance, duty-free shopping, currency exchange and food outlets. Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: Aerzone has opened a number of private mini-offices close to departure gates housing personal computers, fax and Internet services. The airport provides details. Laptop Lane (tel: (510) 969 3580) has five mini-offices near Gate 10, and four mini-offices in the connector building between Terminal One and Terminal Two, near Gate 20. Each mini-office has a personal computer, a colour laser printer, plain paper fax machine, a multi-line phone and laptop PC connections to a T-1 line for Internet and e-mail.

Transport to the city: AC Transit (tel: (510) 817 1717; website: www.actransit.org) operates the TransBay Express, providing a 24-hour service between Oakland International and Mission Street and First Street in San Francisco, costing US$5. Buses depart at the front of both terminals. The service runs every 30 minutes (0500-2100) and hourly thereafter. AC Transit’s line 58 connects the airport to the Alameda/Oakland Ferry (tel: (510) 522 3300), which runs services to San Francisco’s ferry terminal and Pier 39, at Fisherman’s Wharf. Numerous shuttles include Bayporter Express (tel: (877) 467 1800 or (415) 467 1800; website: www.bayporter.com), which charges US$26 into San Francisco plus US$12 for each additional passenger. Journey times vary between 30 minutes and 60 minutes, depending on traffic. An AirBART shuttle, costing US$2, provides services between Oaklands International and the Bay Area Rapid Transit – BART (tel: (415) 989 2278; website: www.bart.gov) train station, for trips into San Francisco.

Approximate flight times to San Francisco: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 6 hours; from Los Angeles is 1 hour; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 13 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: A tax of US$97.73 is added to the price of the ticket.

Getting There By Water

The Port of San Francisco (website: www.sfport.com) operates the 100-year-old Ferry Building on The Embarcadero, situated at the end of Market Street. The port is technically the 11 km (seven miles) of San Francisco Bay waterfront, stretching from Hyde Street Pier in the north to India Basin in the south. It includes restaurants, promenades and the attractions of Fisherman’s Wharf (see Key Attractions). The facilities of the Ferry Building include banks, telephones, restrooms and an informal concessionaire. Remodelling efforts currently underway include plans for shops, restaurants and a waterfront amphitheatre. Some shops have already opened, including The Acme Bread Company, Cowgirl Creamery Artisan Cheese Shop, Ciao Bella Gelato, and Book Passage, a bookstore that averages about 500 annual author events. A farmers’ market is held here four days a week: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, with Saturday being the biggest day.

Ferry services: The Ferry Building is a terminal that serves cruise ships, cargo ships, sightseeing boats and local and Marin County ferries (see Public Transport). The Ferry Building, Pier 39 and Pier 41 are where the various ferries dock – many companies use several of the docks, depending on the routes served. Golden Gate Transit Ferry (tel: (415) 923 2000; website: www.goldengateferry.org) operates services to Marin County. Information on all ferry services is available online (website: www.transitinfo.org).

Transport to the city: The Muni F line stops at the Ferry Building and runs along Market Street to the Castro District or Fisherman’s Wharf. The Embarcadero BART station is approximately three blocks southwest, along Market Street at Davis Street, with East Bay and city-wide connections.

Getting There By Road

The minimum driving age in California (as in the rest of the USA) is 16 years and cars drive on the right. All valid national licences are acceptable, however, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred. US insurance is mandatory. National Interstate Highways can only be entered or exited at specific interchanges and have even numbers from east to west (I-8 near the Mexican border) and odd numbers from north to south. Tolls on roads, bridges and tunnels are commonplace. Speed limits are typically 56 kmh (35mph) in cities and 113 kmh (70mph) on the Interstate, unless otherwise posted. Drivers on the West Coast, however, tend to go faster. Seatbelts must be worn by all occupants of the car and passengers under 12 must be seated in the back. Drivers may turn right at a red light, if the way is clear. A flashing red traffic light is the same as a stop sign, which means that it is necessary to come to a full stop and proceed when safe. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. California has strict drink-driving laws, and penalties may be given at 0.04%. The Zero Tolerance Law, stricter for drivers under 21 years of age, can revoke the licence of drivers with a blood-alcohol content of 0.01% for one year on the first offence. Driving on steep hills may require special care, and emergency care should be used when parking on hills. Manual transmission cars advancing from a stopped light on a steep hill may roll back. Visitors to the San Francisco area are advised to hire automatic cars.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 922 8228; website: www.aaa.com) provides information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service: AAA (800) AAA HELP or 222 4357.

Routes to the city: Major highways are Route 80, the transcontinental highway from the east via Salt Lake City, Interstate 5, stretching to Seattle in the north and San Diego in the south and Route 101, the north–south thoroughfare. The scenic and meandering coastal road, Highway 1 or PCH (Pacific Coast Highway), has incomparable ocean views, however, it also has many intersections and traffic lights, which make for a longer trip. Both Santa Cruz and Monterey are on Highway 1. From both cities, drivers can take this scenic route (Highway 1) or connect to Highway 17 for the Interstate 280 north, which cuts down driving time.

Approximate driving times to San Francisco: From Santa Cruz – 2 hours; Monterey – 2 hours 30 minutes; Lake Tahoe – 4 hours; Los Angeles – 8 hours; Seattle – 21 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) provides the most extensive bus service throughout the USA. The station is the Transbay Terminal, 425 Mission Street, South of Market (tel: (415) 495 1569; fax: (415) 495 1560). Regular long-distance services include Los Angeles, Seattle and Lake Tahoe.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway provider, operating a regular and timely service. Two Amtrak terminals are situated across the Bay, in Oakland. The newer station is located in Jack London Square, 245 Second Street. A second station, situated at 5885 Landregan Street, Emeryville (tel: (510) 450 1081), is where most trains arrive and depart from. Emeryville has a bus service into San Francisco. Facilities include free unattended parking in the station parking lot and a newspaper stand. An Amtrak ticket and baggage centre is located at 101 The Embarcadero, Mission Street, Pier 2.

Rail services: The Coast Starlight travels north from Los Angeles to Seattle, with a stop in the Bay Area. The California Zephyr route travels from the Bay Area to Chicago. There is a daily service to Sacramento, San Joaquin Valley, Portland, Seattle, Vancouver, Reno, Salt Lake City, Denver, Chicago, San Jose, Los Angeles (journey time – between 8 hours 30 minutes and 12 hours), Anaheim and San Diego (journey time – 12 hours). Trains also run to Ontario (journey time – 6 hours 30 minutes) and Las Vegas (journey time – 12 hours).

CalTrain (tel: (800) 660 4287; website: www.caltrain.com), a regional train, serves Palo Alto, San Jose and many other small cities from the station at Fourth Street and King Street. These stop at 22nd Street and Pennsylvanian Street. Tickets cost US$1.75US$8 one-way.

Transport to the city: A free shuttle transports passengers between the two East Bay Amtrak stations and the Ferry Building and CalTrain station in San Francisco.

Getting Around

Public Transport
To avoid steep hills and aching feet, the city’s transport authority, San Francisco Municipal Railway – Muni (tel: (415) 673 6864; fax (415) 923 6166; website: www.sfmuni.com and www.transitinfo.org) operates trolley cars, buses, streetcars, cable cars and a light rail system, for a 24-hour service to all areas of the city. The Bay Area Travel Info line (tel: 511) has automated information on most routes and traffic.

San Francisco has many different types of above-ground vehicles covering the same routes. Buses, trolleys (with wire cable) and streetcars all cover the same routes and command the same adult fare of US$1.25. These operate citywide, with the name, destination and line number displayed on the front of the bus. Stops are designated by pole signs and curb and street markings. Tickets are purchased upon boarding and exact change is required. Historic streetcars run similar routes, every six-15 minutes. The cars come from as far away as Italy and date back to 1928, with US$14 million spent on restoring and maintaining them. Fare is also US$1.25 and is purchased upon boarding.

Cable cars, which run three routes (see Key Attractions) and provide some of the best views in the city, cost US$3. Passengers can buy tickets on-board (exact change is required) or from kiosks located at the cable car turnarounds.

Muni light rail, costing US$1.25 per ride, travels along Market Street to the Mission District and Noe Valley (J line), the Ingleside district (K line), the Sunset District (L, M, and N lines), and the Castro, Embarcadero and Fisherman’s Wharf (F line). Transfers are issued and are good for bus-to-rail or rail-to-bus connections within 90 minutes.

The Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) system (tel: (650) 989 2278; website: www.bart.gov) operates San Francisco’s subway, which runs along Market Street stopping at The Embarcadero, Montgomery, Powell, Civic Center and links San Francisco with East Bay and Daly City. It operates from early morning (exact hours of service depend on the line: some Muni lines begin at 0430 on weekdays; others at 0730, others claim to be 24-hours) until 2400. Tickets (from US$1.15 to US$6.90) are available for purchase from machines located in the stations.

Muni Passports are available for one day (US$9), three days (US$15) or seven days (US$20) and allow for unlimited travel on Muni services. These passes are sold at a number of venues, including the ticket booth at the cable car turnaround at Powell Street and Market Street, as well as the Visitor Information Center, lower level, Hallidie Plaza, Powell Street and Market Street. A comprehensive map of all Muni routes costs US$2 and is available from local bookstores, newspaper stands and corner shops.

Ferries depart from the Ferry Building, The Embarcadero, located at the east end of Market Street – once the world’s second busiest passenger terminal, handling 100,000 daily ferry commuters. Regular crossings go to and from Bay communities. Sausalito and Larkspur are served by the Golden Gate Ferry (tel: (415) 923 2000), which leaves from the south wing of the Ferry Building and makes frequent crossings, taking 30-45 minutes. Tickets are sold on-board. Blue and Gold Fleet (tel: (415) 705 5555; website: www.blueandgoldfleet.com or www.telesails.com), Red and White Fleet (tel: (415) 673 2900; website: www.redandwhite.com) and Vallejo Baylink (tel: (707) 643 3779; website: www.baylinkferry.com) run daily services from the Ferry Building (weekdays only for Tiburon) and Pier 41, Fisherman’s Wharf, serving Oakland, Alameda, Vallejo, Tiburon and Sausalito. Single fares range from US$4.75 to US$9.50.

Taxis
Taxis are plentiful and, despite reports to the contrary, hailing them is not difficult, although the wise passenger will book in advance. Prices vary but fares are about US$2.50 for the first mile and US$2 per mile thereafter. Tipping is customary, almost obligatory, and drivers expect about 15%. Yellow Cab Cooperative Inc (tel: (415) 626 2345) and Veterans Taxicab Company (tel: (415) 552 1300) are both reputable providers.

Limousines
Stretch limos are a common sight in San Francisco. A level of service to suit every taste is available, with some cars carrying up to 10 passengers. Many operate 24 hours a day and come fully insured, American Coach Limo (tel: (650) 876 1884) and All City Limousine (tel: (650) 757 9511) among them. Rates vary. A limousine from the San Francisco International Airport to Downtown costs approximately US$50.

Driving in the City
While arriving in San Francisco by car is a delight, driving around this city is not. Hills and cable cars, which have right of way, do not help. Parking is at a premium, car parks are expensive and the unwitting tourist can easily fall prey to a hefty fine. Regulations can be confusing and are aggressively enforced – pedestrians at a crossing always have the right of way and coloured curbs indicate restricted parking. It is important to note that, when parking on a hill, the driver must curb the wheels to prevent a runaway and ensure that the handbrake is on. Wheels should be turned out facing uphill.

The Fifth and Mission Parking Garage, located where Fifth Street and Mission Street meet, is the biggest in the city. Other car parks include Union Square Garage, Geary Street, and the Ellis-O’Farrell Garage, located where these two streets meet. The cheapest parking lots charge US$2 per hour and are, of course, the first to fill up.

Car Hire
The best reason for hiring a car is to explore the magnificent coastal road, Highway 1, or for longer journeys, further afield. Most car hire companies offer deals that include insurance and unlimited mileage but drivers should be at least 21 years of age – some specify 25 years. A valid driving licence is required, while a second form of identification and booking ahead is advised. Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (415) 885 5011 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (415) 292 8400 or (800) 221 1203; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollarcar.com), or Thrifty (tel: (415) 788 8111 or (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com) offer competitive rates. Daily base rates start at approximately US$45.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
For those visitors who believe they can take on the hills, Holiday Adventures Sales and Rentals (tel: (415) 567 1192) hires out mountain and street bikes from US$5 per hour or US$25 per day. The more adventurous may want to sit astride a Harley. Eaglerider Motorcycle Rental (tel: (415) 503 1900) can turn mere citizens into easyriders from US$75 daily. Prices include helmets, basic liability insurance and unlimited mileage. Drivers must be at least 21 years old and hold a motorcycle driving licence.

Business

Business Profile
Following the rollercoaster ride of its dotcom industries, business in San Francisco now has a decidedly different feel. Not so long ago, new media was muscling in on the back of neighbouring Silicon Valley’s general success in the computing industry. The dynamic energy of the new kid on the block swamped the bohemian enclave South of Market, known as SoMa or Multimedia Gulch. Former warehouses were quickly converted into trendy office spaces in the area that actually runs north and south of Market Street, from Keary Street to The Embarcadero. Corporate investment in the area caused long-term city residents to be forced out by skyrocketing rent. They began a movement to temper the city housing and planning decisions that had displaced residents – a struggle that is still in progress.

Although many of the dotcoms once based here have all but evaporated, some of the area’s more successful ventures included CNET Networks, technology and information (website: www.cnet.com), search engines Northern Light (website: www.northernlight.com) and Ask Jeeves (website: www.ask.com), and Imagine Media (website: www.imaginemedia.com), set up by Englishman Chris Anderson, to archive print and online computing magazines. Rapid downsizing and severance checks have become as normal as a morning cup of coffee and thousands of techies and new media employees have lost their jobs in the past four years, leaving a pool of professionals in a city with few vacancies and exorbitant rent.

The thriving tourism industry is as strong as ever, however. Each year, more than 16 million people pour into San Francisco, spending in excess of US$6.5 billion. The industry employs 61,000 people, although the largest private Bay area companies are scattered throughout various industries – Bechtel Group Inc (construction and engineering), Levi Strauss (clothing), New United Motor Manufacturing Inc (car manufacture), Visa International (financial services), Core-Mark International Inc (distribution) and Wilbur-Ellis Co (agricultural products). After tourism and computing, the city’s key industry is finance. San Francisco is the West Coast’s main centre of finance, with Montgomery Street often called ‘The Wall Street of the West’. Although reverberations of the dotcom collapse have been felt in this industry too, suited finance workers get on with the business, as millions continue to pour in and out of the city’s banking, insurance, brokerages and corporate headquarters – the symbol of which is the Transamerica Pyramid building.

Before the American economy bottomed out, California enjoyed one of the world’s healthiest economies, and one of the nation’s lowest rates of unemployment. Despite this, San Francisco’s extremely low unemployment rate of 4.3% in 2001 climbed in 2002 to meet the national average of 6% – an indication of both the new media industry downturn and the shaky post-September 11 American economy.

Business Etiquette
Visiting businesspeople will enjoy the informal attire worn by new media workers. However, it would be a mistake to think that this reflects a lackadaisical attitude to work. Workers often start late, eat lunch at their desks and work late into the evening. In the Financial District, dress is more formal and working hours are usually 0900-1700. San Francisco is an informal city and business meetings, especially in the new media industry, may include a casual breakfast or lunch with casual attire to match. Business done by bankers and lawyers, however, will be more formal in terms of dress, with ties and jackets worn, even if these are slowly loosened or discarded. ‘Power’ breakfasts, catered lunches and coffee meetings are common, while dinners at private homes are more rare. Fashionable restaurants or wine bars are the more likely settings for financial types. When making a private visit, gifts of wine, sweets from home or flowers are a good bet. Visiting businesspersons should note that equal opportunity in race, creed, gender and sexual orientation is standard practise in San Francisco.

The new media industry, once filled with young and competitive employees who traded jobs every two years, is undergoing a change of heart, due to sheer necessity. The slim number of workers that remain seem grateful for any job at all.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Regularly voted best city in the USA in national polls, San Francisco is a visual feast that offers something for every eye. Grand vistas of the Bay and the city are provided by the many hilltops and landmarks, such as the 55m-high (180ft) Coit Tower, on Telegraph Hill. Works of art are on display in a myriad of museums. For the more contemporary tastes, the high-tech offerings of Yerba Buena, and the Pacific Bell Park, home of baseball’s San Francisco Giants, are yet another side to the city.

But it is where mankind and nature meets that this implausibly diverse city comes into its own. A visit to the Golden Gate Bridge, which used enough wire to go around the earth several times over and was hailed as impossible to build, is a must. Golden Gate Park covers 400 hectares (1,000 acres) and is the largest manmade park in the world, thanks to Scotsman John McClaren, the extraordinary gardener who tamed the sands of San Francisco and created the magnificent park. Then there is Alcatraz, the stuff of legend, Grant Street, the city’s oldest, running the length of Chinatown, Haight-Ashbury, which rekindles memories of Flower Power and the Beat Generation, and Fisherman’s Wharf, at the edge of the Bay, offering hundreds of resident sea lions, cheap souvenirs and, always, something to eat.

Tourist Information
San Francisco Visitor Information Center
Hallidie Plaza, Lower Level, Powell Street and Market Street
Tel: (415) 391 2000. Fax: (415) 362 7323.
E-mail: vicl@sfcvb.org
Website: www.sfvisitor.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 0900-1500.

Passes
The San Francisco CityPass (website: www.citypass.com) allows free admission to five attractions (the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Exploratorium, Asian Art Museum, California Academy of Science and Steinhart Aquarium) as well as a seven-day Muni Passport (see Public Transport in Getting Around), including cable cars and a Bay cruise. It costs US$38 (concessions are available), is valid for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance.

Key Attractions

Golden Gate Bridge
The beautiful Golden Gate Bridge, which connects ‘Frisco’ to Marin County, is not gold, of course, but a vivid orange that stands out even through the frequent thick fogs. Spanning nearly three kilometres (two miles), the bridge is one of the wonders of the modern world and one of five bridges that span the Bay. The best views of the Golden Gate Bridge are from Fort Point in the Presidio (Long Avenue and Marine Drive) and Visa Point, on the Marin side at the north end of the bridge. A walk or, at least, a drive across the bridge is essential (walking takes approximately half an hour and walkers should dress warmly). The two pivotal cables contain enough steel wire to encircle the equator three times, while the concrete alone would provide enough material for a pavement from San Francisco to New York.

Highway 101 (Lincoln Boulevard)
Tel: (415) 921 5858.
Website: www.goldengatebridge.org
Transport: Bus 28, 29.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (roadway and bicycle access); daily 0500-2100 (pedestrian east sidewalk).
Admission: Free; US$5 southbound-only toll for cars.

Golden Gate Park
The 411.5 hectares (1,017 acres) of Golden Gate Park encompass meadows, lakes, myriad gardens, an open-air music concourse, a children’s playground and vintage carousel, a buffalo paddock and the tallest artificial waterfall in the West. The park fronts Ocean Beach, which affords spectacular sunset views. Some 7,000 plant species flourish in the Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, while the must-see Japanese Tea Garden is an absolute haven. The Presidio, the land and buildings surrounding the approach to the Golden Gate Bridge, was formerly one of the oldest military installations in the country and now houses a forest, a Civil War brick fortress and a museum.

Tel: (415) 831 2700. Fax: (415) 221 8034.
Website: www.parks.sfgov.org
Transport: Bus 5, 21, 28, 29, 43, 44, 71 or 82X; N-Judah Streetcar.

Japanese Tea Garden
One Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive
Tel: (415) 752 1171.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730 (garden); daily 1000-1715 (tea house).
Admission: US$3.50.

Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens
Ninth Avenue and Lincoln Way
Tel: (415) 661 1316. Fax: (415) 661 7427.
Website: www.strybing.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1630; Sat-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: Free; donations welcome.

Presidio
Building 201, Fort Mason
Tel: (415) 561 4323.
Website: www.nps.gov/prsf/home.htm
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (visitor centre).
Admission: Free.

Alcatraz
Looming menacingly in the Bay, near Fisherman’s Wharf, Alcatraz (known simply as ‘The Rock’) was the site of the USA’s toughest maximum-security prison, from 1934 until 1963. Al Capone lodged there, as did birdman Robert Stroud, although his infamy is based more on Hollywood legend than fact – he never did keep birds here. Alcatraz, which imprisoned convicts as much with the Bay estuary’s lethal currents as with manmade bars, opened to a curious public in 1973. Now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, its on-island activities include trail walks, audio cassette tours narrated by former inmates and guards and ranger-led tours. The frustration of being able to witness the natural beauty and bright lights of the Bay communities from just a mile away, which must have been felt by many an inmate, is palpable. Alcatraz Island was also the site of the first lighthouse built on the Pacific Coast. Visitors are advised to book early and wear warm clothes.

Alcatraz Island
Tel: (415) 705 5555 or (800) 426 8687 (advance tickets) or (415) 773 1188 (24-hour transport and general information).
Website: www.nps.gov/alcatraz
Transport: Blue and Gold Ferries from Piers 39 and 41.
Opening hours: Departures daily 0930-1830 (summer), 0930-1630 (all other seasons).
Admission: US$11.50; US$16 including audiocassette rental.

Fisherman’s Wharf
In the daytime, visitors throng the sidewalks and piers of Fisherman’s Wharf – a centre for tacky souvenirs, Bay-view restaurants, shops, attractions and the spectacle of some 400 resident sea lions crowded onto pontoons to sunbathe. But in the early hours of the morning, from dawn until 0900, the ambitious visitor can get quite another view – that of a busy fish distribution centre sending out seafood both locally and further afield. Dylan Thomas once waxed lyrical to his wife, Caitlin, about the quality of the lobsters, clams and crabs here and small wonder – oysters, chowder, crab and shrimp cocktail are sold in disposable cartons on the wharf, for eating while strolling.

Pier 39 (website: www.pier39.com), where Beach Street meets The Embarcadero, is actually one of 29 curiously numbered piers on the waterfront and is now the city’s biggest attraction. Not only is it home to the sea lions but also many other attractions, such as the impressive Aquarium of the Bay, where moving sidewalks are surrounded on three sides by water. Sightseeing boats leave from Pier 39 and the neighbouring Pier 41. The Bay views are sublime. The Cannery houses 30 speciality shops, while Ghirardelli Square, former chocolate factory turned chic shopping centre, can also be approached from the wharf. Hyde Street Pier, which displays historic ships (including the Eureka, an 1890 paddlewheeler, the schooner C.A. Thayer, and number of others) and the Art Deco National Maritime Museum, show how life in the city, a century ago, was much more entwined with the marine industry.

The Embarcadero
Tel: (415) 391 2000. Fax (617) 960 9216.
Website: www.fishermanswharf.org
Transport: Bay Street or Beach Street MUNI station; Powell-Mason cable car; streetcar F-line.

Underwater World
Pier 39
Tel: (415) 623 5300 or (888) 732 3483.
Website: www.aquariumofthebay.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000 (summer); Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1900 (winter). Admission: US$12.95.
Concessions available.

Maritime Museum
Beach Street and Polk Street
Tel: (415) 447 5000.
Website: www.nps.gov/safr
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free.

The Cannery
Jefferson Street and Leavenworth Street
Tel: (415) 771 3112. Fax: (415) 771 2424.
E-mail: info@thecannery.com
Website: www.thecannery.com
Opening hours: Shops open Mon-Sat 1000, Sun 1100; restaurants open daily 1130; closing hours vary.
Admission: Free.

Ghirardelli Square
900 North Point Street
Tel: (415) 775 5500. Fax: (415) 775 0912.
E-mail: ghsqmail@aol.com
Website: www.ghirardellisq.com
Opening hours: Shops open Mon-Sun 1000-2100, Sun 1000-1800 (roughly Jun-Aug); Mon-Thurs 1000-1900, Fri-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1100-1800 (roughly Sep-May); restaurants usually open until 2300.
Admission: Free.

Hyde Street Pier
Hyde Street and Jefferson Street
Tel. (415) 447 5000.
Website: www.nps.gov/safr
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730.
Admission: US$5.

Cable Cars
One of San Francisco’s principal attractions is its network of century-old cable cars, America’s only mobile National Historic Landmark. The system was opened in 1873, when Andrew Hallidie guided the first car down Clay Street, near Portsmouth Square, to replace horse-drawn streetcars. It was refurbished in the 1980s. The ride and the views can best be enjoyed standing on one of the outside platforms but travellers should hold on tight and watch out for traffic. The cars operate along three routes – the Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines, beginning at Powell Street and Market Street, run roughly north–south between Fisherman’s Wharf and Union Square. The California Street line runs east–west from California Street and Market Street, near the Embarcadero to Van Ness Avenue. The cars are turned by hand on turntables at the end of the line – all part of the experience. A visit to the Cable Car Museum completes the experience. Here, located in the city’s only remaining cable car barn and powerhouse, visitors can view the cable-winding machinery as it reels 17km (11 miles) of steel at a steady pace of 15km (9.5 miles) per hour. The mechanism is much more interesting than one might think and a video, historical memorabilia and gift shop make the museum a compelling stop.

Powell Street, Market Street and California Street
Website: www.sfcablecar.com
Transport: Cable cars pass MUNI and bus lines, as well as BART stations.
Operating hours: Mon-Fri 0600-0100.
Admission: US$3 per ride.

Cable Car Museum
1201 Mason Street, at Washington Street, Nob Hill
Tel: (415) 474 1887. Fax: (415) 929 7546.
Website: www.cablecarmuseum.com
Transport: Chinatown MUNI station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Apr-Oct); daily 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Cartoon Art Museum
The Cartoon Art Museum, the only one of its kind on the West Coast, displays rotating exhibitions of art, from underground cartoons to popular comic books and animation. An enormous permanent collection and a CD-rom gallery explore every facet of cartoon art.

655 Mission Street, South of Market
Tel: (415) 227 8666. Fax: (415) 243 8666.
Website: www.cartoonart.org
Transport: Montgomery Street BART or MUNI F Line.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700.
Admission: US$6; concessions available.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA)
The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, opened in 1995, to great acclaim. Its permanent collection is particularly strong in American 20th-century sculpture, painting, photography (including works by Andy Warhol, Jackson Pollack, and Georgia O’Keeffe) and multimedia installations.

151 Third Street, South of Market
Tel: (415) 357 4000. Fax: (415) 357 4037.
Website: www.sfmoma.org
Transport: Montgomery Street BART or MUNI F Line.
Opening hours: Fri-Tues 1100-1800; Thurs 1100-2100 (Labor Day to Memorial Day – Sep-Jun). Fri-Tues 1000-1800; Thurs 1000-2100 (Memorial Day to Labor Day – Jun-Sep).
Admission: US$10; concessions available.

Further Distractions

The Mission
The Mission, once linked to Mission Dolores (the city’s oldest building, built by its Franciscan fathers in 1791) is a district of San Francisco where Central America’s immigrants and bohemians rub shoulders with yuppies and dotcom workers. Here, better than anywhere, can the visitor get a feel of the city’s Spanish origins. Beautiful outdoor murals, often on social justice issues, signal the area as a vital hub of diversity and creative change. Valencia Street, a lesbian enclave, is a very desirable property area and boutiques and restaurants with a Latin flavour vie for cash with the drug dealers in neighbouring Dolores Park.

Mission Dolores Dolores and 16th Street, Mission
Tel: (415) 621 8203. Fax: (415) 621 2294.
E-mail: mdolores@earthlink.net
Website: www.missiondolores.org
Transport: J Bus 14, 22, 26 or 53.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1500.
Admission: Free; US$7 (45-minute audio tour).

Japantown
It may only be a few miles away but Japantown – bounded by Laguna Street, Geary Street, Post Street and Fillmore Street, could not be more different to the Mission. The city’s growing Japanese population has a home here but the area also is a commercial centre. Walking up Geary Street or Post Street from Union Square brings the five-tier Peace Pagoda into view. The pagoda and the Japan Center are the focal point of the community’s cultural and business life, as well as the site of several seasonal festivals. Visitors can partake in a Japanese communal bath or one of the many massages offered at the essential Kabuki Springs and Spa. Tuesdays are mixed gender and swimming suits are required.

Laguna Street, Geary Street, Post Street and Fillmore Street
Transport: Market Street; bus 2, 3 or 4 to Buchanan Street and Sutter Street, bus 22 or 28 to Geary Street and Fillmore Street.

Japan Center
1737 Post Street
Tel: (415) 922 6776.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200.
Admission: Free.

Kabuki Springs and Spa
1750 Geary Street
Tel: (450) 922 6000. Fax (415) 922 6005.
Website: www.kabukisprings.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200.
Admission: US$15 (before 1700, Mon-Fri); US$18 (after 1700, Sat-Sun).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A good public transport system has made walking more a pleasure than a necessity and yet there is a walking tour for every taste. For those interested in discovering the gay community and environs, Cruisin’ The Castro (tel: (415) 550 8110; website: www.webcastro.com/castrotour) is a four-hour tour that includes lunch. Tours depart from Harvey Milk Plaza at Castro Street and Market Street, 1000-1400 and cost US$40.

The Foot! (tel: (415) 793 5378; website: www.foottours.com) tours explore some of the city’s most famous areas (including Nob Hill, Union Square, Chinatown and North Beach) and are led by professional comedians. Regular two-hour tours cost US$30 and departure points vary depending on the chosen tour. The two-hour Haight Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour (tel: (415) 863 1621) takes the nostalgic visitor not only back to the 1960s and the famed Summer of Love but also further back to the Haight that was a Victorian resort destination. Tours cost US$15 and depart from the northeast corner of Stanyan Street and Waller Street, Tuesday and Saturday at 0930 (except Nov-Feb). Reservations are recommended for all walking tours.

Bus Tours
Gray Line (tel: (415) 434 8687; website: www.graylinesanfrancisco.com) offers a ‘Deluxe City Highlights’ three-to-four-hour tour, which takes in many key sites, including the Golden Gate Park and the bridge. It costs US$37 and reservations are required. There is a free shuttle pick-up service. Tower Tours (tel: (866) 345 8687; website: www.sftowertours.com) offers a similar three-to-four-hour tour for US$37, which includes a hotel pick-up shuttle service, with three daily departures. Both companies also have trips to Alcatraz, Marin Country and the Wine Country.

Other Tours
A boat tour of the Bay is a must, providing perhaps the best panorama of the city and a unique view of the Golden Gate Bridge. A number of tour operators offer departures from Fisherman’s Wharf. Blue and Gold Fleet (tel: (415) 705 5555, for tickets or 773 1188, for information; website: www.blueandgoldfleet.com) runs a daily narrated cruise, with regular departures from Pier 39. Tours last around one hour and cost US$20.

San Francisco Seaplane Tours (tel: (415) 332 4843 or (888) 732 7526; website: www.seaplane.com) depart daily from Pier 39 in the morning or Sausalito in the afternoon. Shuttle service to Sausalito is available. The half-hour tours cost US$129. A sunset tour with champagne lasts 40 minutes and costs US$140.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Sausalito: A Mediterranean-style community, Sausalito (or ‘Little Willow’) is the first Marin County town over the Golden Gate Bridge and has been long favoured by artists and bohemians. Writer Jack London had connections here and the British Zen Buddhist Alan Watts, who was instrumental in bringing Zen to the west, set up home here. It is easy to take the Golden Gate ferry (US$5.60 one way) or Blue and Gold fleet ferry (US$7.25 one way) from Pier 41 on Fisherman’s Wharf or The Embarcadero Ferry Terminal to this quaint waterfront town (journey time is about 30 minutes). Sausalito offers shops, boutiques and galleries aplenty along Bridgeway (the main thoroughfare) and outdoor restaurants along the waterfront. Attractions include the Bay Model, 2100 Bridgeway, at Marinship Way (tel: (415) 332 3871), a scale model of the San Francisco Bay and Sacramento Delta, as well as the Bay Area Discovery Museum, 557 McReynolds Road, East Fort Baker (tel. (415) 487 4398), which provides hands-on interactive exhibits for children.

A flotilla of 400-plus residential houseboats are still visible in Richardson Bay, although the renowned creativity once associated with them seems to have toned down since commuters moved in. The Sausalito Arts Fesitival (tel: (415) 332 3555), held over Labor Day weekend (September), continues to bring thousands to the waterside town.

The Sausalito Visitor Information Center, 780 Bridgeway (tel: (415) 332 0505, website: www.ci.sausalito.ca.us), closed Monday, provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Monterey: Any visit to California’s central coast is incomplete without a day in Monterey. Major tour operators, such as Gray Line (tel: (415) 434 8687; website: www.graylinesanfrancisco.com), run daily coach trips. However, the best way to visit is by car. The journey down the Highway 280 and then the spectacular coast road, Highway 1, is all part of the experience. The coastal landscape is breathtaking and the two-hour journey, past lighthouses and seaside inns, passes quickly. As Monterey approaches, fields of artichokes seem to stretch for miles and the area is dotted with cypress trees and verdant hills. Attractions in pristine Monterey include the Monterey Bay Aquarium, historic Cannery Row (once the sardine capital of the world) and the National Steinbeck Centre, situated in nearby Salinas. John Steinbeck fans will quickly appreciate the tough life of the Nobel prize-winning author and other workers in the hazardous canning industry. Fisherman’s Wharf is home to tacky souvenir shops but resident pelicans and sea lions enjoy the attention of tourists. This is also the place for visitors to book for one of several whale-watching trips that, depending on the weather and the time of year, depart at regular intervals. A standard price seems to be US$30 and the chances of seeing greys, minkes, orcas, humpbacks and even the mighty blue whale are good. Sanctuary Cruises (website: www.sanctuarycruises.com) is committed to whale conservation and operates the only non-smoking, non-fishing, whale-watching boat on the Bay.

The Monterey Peninsula Visitors and Convention Bureau, 5 Portola Plaza (tel: (831) 372 9323; fax: (831) 372 9320; e-mail: info@monterey.com; website: www.monterey.com), provides further information.

Sport

Baseball’s San Francisco Giants (website: www.sfgiants.com) play in Pacific Bell Park (tel: (415) 972 2000), a ‘state-of-the-art old-fashioned ball park’, which opened in 2000. Located at King Street and Third Street, on the waterfront, it is not unknown for a powerful hitter to knock a ball into the Bay. The 40,800-seater stadium is accessible by all forms of public transport. Tickets are often limited but are available at the ballpark, on the day of the game, two hours before the start (tel: (800) 467 8000 or 734 4268; website: www.sfgiants.com). The season ends in early October, not long after the city’s second major team, the San Francisco 49ers (website: www.sf49ers.com), don helmets and get ready for the start of the American football season, which runs until January. The team enjoys considerable success, hovering at the top end of the NFL West team standings. Tickets, priced at US$45, are often sold out. Home games take place at 3Com Park, Candlestick Point, Jamestown Avenue and Harney Way (tel: (415) 656 4900). Visitors might have a better chance scoring tickets to see the Oakland Raiders (website: www.raiders.com) play football at the Network Associates Coliseum (tel: (510) 569 2121), Coliseum Way, off I-880, north of Hegenberger Road, in Oakland. Tickets are available through Tickets.com (tel: (510) 762 2277).

Fitness Centres: San Francisco is an active city and its number and variety of specialty gyms, including a chain of 24-hour fitness centres, testify to that. Gyms in the Castro are popular with the neighbourhood’s buff, gay locals. Many gyms sell day passes for about US$20, which include fitness classes and yoga. Drop-in yoga studios located throughout the area typically cost US$15 per one-and-a-half-hour class. Budget-minded visitors might prefer to opt for a hotel with a gym.

Golf: This ever-popular sport is well served, with a number of courses open for public use. The 18-hole Presidio Golf Course, Finley Road (tel: (415) 561 4653; website: www.presidiogolf.com), is managed by Arnold Palmer’s company and is known as one of the best courses in the region. Another popular public links is Harding Park Golf Course, Harding Park Road and Skyline Boulevard (tel: (415) 664 4690; website: www.harding-park.com), which has both nine and 18-hole courses. Fees start at around US$88 for the day plus cart rental; booking well in advance is essential.

Tennis: There are around 130 free public tennis courts within the city, which operate on a first-come first-served basis. Mission Dolores Park, 18th Street and Dolores Street, has six such lighted courts. For around US$10, visitors can reserve one of the 21 Golden Gate Park courts (tel: (415) 743 7001 and 753 7101), which fill up on weekends. More information is available from the San Francisco Parks and Recreation Department (tel: (415) 753 7032; website: www.parks.sfgov.org).

Shopping

San Francisco has many of the big names in shopping (Saks, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus and Tiffany’s) mostly clustered around Union Square, the centre of Downtown spending. But it is the dozens of galleries and bookshops within an 800m (half-mile) radius of the square that provide the stimulus and respite to keep going. Unlike many other US cities, San Francisco has no specific indoor malls, opting instead for distinct shopping districts.

The more interesting items are had further afield. A walk through Chinatown can pay dividends, as discounted imported jewellery, clothing and objets d’art appear down Grant Avenue, every few yards. Where else could one find pieces of priceless 17th-century vases, which were smashed during the Cultural Revolution, converted into US$10 jewellery boxes? Or watch workers seal your fate at Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Co., 56 Ross Alley, a small fortune-cookie-making factory? For a counter-culture neighbourhood, The Haight has gone somewhat corporate. But past the GAP, at the Haight-Ashbury intersection, one can find folk art, music, and vintage clothing shops.

There is a more intellectual vibe in North Beach where Beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti’s City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Avenue, stays open until midnight. Currently in vogue, Ghirardelli Square, a former chocolate factory located at 900 North Point Street, and Cow Hollow, to the north of the exclusive Pacific Heights, are both off the beaten track but worth making the effort. Tiny Hayes Valley, west of the Civic Center, has a stretch of funky local art galleries and stylish clothing boutiques, for one-of-a-kind items. Pacific Heights, particularly along Fillmore Street and Sacramento Street, has a similar yet slightly more upscale feel, with many modern houseware and high-end gift shops.

Specialist shops offer something for every taste, from Chocolate Heaven, Pier 39, with chocolates from around the world, and Sanrio, Stockton Street and Market Street, devoted entirely to Hello Kitty and friends, to Stormy Leather, Howard Street, SoMa, a fetish boutique owned and run by women, for the past 16 years. While, for the latest up-to-the-minute high-tech gadgetry, the Microsoft and Sony stores in the Metreon Centre, 150 Fourth Street, dazzle and delight.

The San Francisco Farmers Market (tel: (415) 353 5650) is held on Saturday at The Embarcadero and Green Street, stocking delectable baked and packaged goods provided by small, local outfitters, as well as plenty of organic produce and plants. Confusingly, another market, held on Sunday and Wednesday, at United Nations Plaza, goes by the same name. On these two days, however, the selection focuses on Asian goods, inexpensive produce and some baked goods.

San Francisco adds a 8.5% non-refundable sales tax on every item. Discount stores, like Marshall’s on Market Street, do exist. Duty-free shopping is available for international visitors at DFS Galleria, Union Square, where designer names like Burberry and Calvin Klein vie for attention, while Chanel and Armani are not far away. Opening hours vary widely – many shops are open well into the evening and most are open at least some hours on Sunday.

Culture

The cultural life of San Francisco is as diverse as the different cultures that reside here. In the Mission, the art is on the walls with colourful murals covering historical moments and major personalities in Latin history. In the Civic Center, it streams melodically from purpose-built buildings dedicated to the pursuit of music. SoMa is home to important museums and some of the most exciting visual art in the world, while Union Square is theatreland. Acid rock was born in the LSD days of the 1960s and played to the hippie generation, by bands like Jefferson Airplane and The Grateful Dead, while, in 1967, the Summer of Love crystallised this new cultural consciousness. Guitarist Carlos Santana, recently back in vogue, settled here and continues to speak of the creativity that came out of LSD. Today, the city continues to provide a home to artists of all description, reflecting the breadth of cultural diversity. Its status as a pioneer has settled down, as many of the ideas that earlier generations fought for (such as gay rights in the 1970s) are now more accepted. But there remains a rich tradition of alternative theatre, as well as successful mainstream offerings. There is always something to stimulate the mind and the senses – from street performers, who are licensed by the Arts Commission, to the city’s symphony orchestra.

Tix Bay Area, 251 Stockton Street (tel: (415) 433 7827), provides full-price advance tickets (by phone and in person), as well as half-price day-of-performance tickets (in person only and cash only) for a range of events. There is a website that provides good theatre information (website: www.theatrebayarea.org).

SF Bay Guardian, the SF Weekly and the biweekly Bay Area Reporter all provide listings and information on the city’s cultural activities. (The first two are free papers widely available in newspaper boxes throughout the city)

Music: Concerts of the Grammy-Award winning San Francisco Symphony, led by acclaimed conductor Michael Tilson Thomas, are often sold out. Performances are held at the ultra-modern Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Avenue (tel: (415) 864 6000; website: www.sfsymphony.org), one of the city’s most exciting buildings.

The San Francisco Opera (tel: (415) 864 3330; website: www.sfopera.com) is currently in its 80th season and, under the direction of Lotfi Mansouri, has become one of the world’s great opera companies. Its home is the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue (tel: (415) 864 3330), a gorgeous building dating from 1932. The season is September to January and June to July. Same-day tickets, mostly for standing room only, are usually available.

Theatre: Shows range from Broadway productions on Geary Street to smaller, more alternative shows throughout the city. The Geary Theatre, 415 Geary Street (tel: (415) 749 2228; website: www.act-sfbay.org), opened in 1996 and is home to the American Conservatory Theatre (ACT), one of the nation’s largest resident companies and a Tony Award winner. Between September and July, the cast revisits classics and explores modern masterpieces. The Curran Theatre, 445 Geary Street (tel: (415) 551 2000; website: www.bestofbroadway-sf.com), hosts touring Broadway musicals, while Teatro Zinzanni, Pier 27-29, The Embarcadero (tel: (415) 438 2668; website: www.teatrozinzanni.org), blends cabaret, spectacle, music and dinner to conjure up a night to remember.

Dance: Ballet has been part of San Franciscan life longer than in any other city in America. San Francisco Ballet (tel: (415) 865 2000; website: www.sfballet.org) is not only the oldest company (it started life in 1933), but also reputedly among the best, performing an eclectic repertoire of classical and contemporary works. Performances take place at the War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue (tel: (415) 864 3330), between February and May. There are a number of innovative dance troupes dotted around town. The Ethnic Dance Festival takes place at the Palace of Fine Arts Theatre, Lyon Street (tel: (415) 392 4400), over three weekends in June.

Film: Over the years, San Francisco has been the setting for numerous films – directors and producers are attracted by its varied locations and laid-back lifestyle. Its steep hills are favoured for car chases and the Bay, with the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz in the distance, provides an unrivalled backdrop. Most famously, Steve McQueen starred in the 1960s classic Bullitt (1968). Chris Columbus filmed local resident Robin Williams in Mrs Doubtfire (1993) and Sean Connery appeared in The Rock (1996). More recently, Ang Lee’s remake of the Hulk (2003), starring Nick Nolte and Sam Elliott, was shot in San Francisco. Jennifer Lopez filmed The Wedding Planner (2001) here, and, in 2001, Elizabeth Hurley came to the city to film Bedazzled. The quirky Being John Malkovich was filmed here in 1999.

The San Francisco International Film Festival is held in April and shows a wide range of cinema. Two of the best new film venues are the Yerba Buena Centre for the Arts, Third Street (tel: (415) 978 2787; website: www.yerbabuenaarts.org), and the adjacent Metreon Centre, 101 Fourth Street (tel: (415) 369 6000; website: www.metreon.com), a Sony IMAX theatre, with 15 screens. The landmark Castro Theatre, Castro Street and Market Street (tel: (415) 621 6120, for information or (415) 478 2277, for tickets; website: www.thecastrotheatre.com), shows independent, art, and foreign film and has a Wurlitzer organ that plays before each showing.

Cultural Events: Festivals and parades of every kind seem in constant supply in a city that never stops. June sees the Gay Freedom Day Parade march, from The Embarcadero on the waterfront down to the Civic Center. This month also welcomes the Stern Grove Festival, which provides two months of varied performing arts. The last weekend in July is time for the San Francisco Jazz & Wine Festival at The Embarcadero Centre. Things really get moving in September, with the annual Blues Festival and Opera in the Park. The San Francisco Jazz Festival, one of the biggest and best around, with stars from all over the world, gets underway at the end of October, for two weeks at various venues.

Literary Notes: San Francisco has inspired literary comment almost since its inception. However, until the 1950s, it was mostly the odd epigram from wits like Mark Twain, who reckoned his coldest winter was a summer here, or Rudyard Kipling, who once called San Francisco ‘a mad city – inhabited for the most part by perfectly insane people’, or John Steinbeck, who described the city as a ‘golden handcuff’ without a key. Although William Saroyan did have this to say during the Great Depression: ‘If you’re alive, you can’t be bored in San Francisco. If you’re not alive, San Francisco will bring you to life.’

‘Frisco’ has been at the vanguard of American consciousness ever since, peaking in the 1950s, thanks to Beat Generation writers Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Gary Snyder. Lawrence Ferlinghetti, poet and publisher, was declared innocent of obscenity for publishing Allen Ginsberg’s Howl (1956), paving the way for an open and liberal cultural life in the city. Snyder, a Pulitzer prize winner, was inspired by the cultural diversity and natural beauty of the place. But for many, it was the city’s drug culture and the political climate. Most famous of them all is Jack Kerouac, whose On The Road (1957) spoke for a generation and challenged the status quo. The only survivor of the Beat Generation is Lawrence Ferlinghetti, whose City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Avenue, holds a reputation as one of the best places for buying cutting-edge and classical literature in the USA.

Ken Kesey, author of One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest (1962), continued the outraging of American society, a decade later, fuelled by LSD. For Dylan Thomas, it was a city out of this world: ‘You wouldn’t think such a place as San Francisco could exist,’ he proclaimed. Gay writer Armistead Maupin’s success was founded on that of his newspaper column, which started in the San Francisco Chronicle on 24 May 1976, and his understanding of his city’s gay population. He went on to become a major modern storyteller, quirkily reflecting city life in a series of novels that began with Tales of the City (1978) and continues to enjoy popular appeal. Bay Area author Amy Tan wrote the popular Joy Luck Club (1994), which chronicles four generations of women in San Francisco. ‘Sister Spit’ success-story Michelle Tea, won accolades for Valencia (2000), a story about young punk-rock lesbians in the Mission District.

Nightlife

San Francisco pulsates with creative decadence. Restaurants and bars fill up early and stay open late. With more than 2,000 places to buy a drink, you never go thirsty. Such a huge diversity of bars makes any rule of thumb over dress codes, opening hours, cover charges and behaviour obsolete and it is best to check with individual establishments, if in doubt. Generally, however, attitude makes way for a more laid-back scene and, like all of California, smoking is not permitted. For the most part, anything goes, not least in the 200 or so gay clubs, many of which are so popular they are in danger of turning straight. Dance spots regularly change names and identities and the club scene is in a constant state of flux but the music, from piano bar smooth to house and acid jazz and back again, keeps on playing. Many clubs charge an entrance fee but trendy coffee bars and record shops distribute fliers and invitation cards that get you in for free, or at a discount, if you arrive early. To drink, you will need to be at least 21 years old and carrying identification. Generally, restaurants, nightclubs and bars are licensed from 0600 to 0200. A beer in a microbrewery costs about US$5, while a martini in a swank lounge could set you back US$10.

Some districts (most often those with a young and thrusting street culture) offer many nightlife options. These include Downtown, South of Market (SoMa) and Castro. To find the action, it may be worth consulting a current copy of the SF Bay Guardian, the SF Weekly (free papers widely available in newspaper boxes throughout the city).

Bars: Backflip is the place to go for cocktails after a hard day on the tourist trail. Located in the swish retro Phoenix Hotel, Eddy Street and Larkin Street, it is unpredictably chic, with an interesting clientele and some of the best libations around. At the other end of the spectrum, the Redwood Room piano bar, at the Clift Hotel, 495 Geary Street, offers relaxation for the rich, with formal attire advised. The Bubble Lounge, Montgomery Street at Washington Street, offers sophistication with a choice of more than 300 champagnes and accompanying oysters, caviar and sushi. In the Castro Street area, there are around a dozen bars, including gay-friendly Caf Flore, Market Street and Noe Street, which buzzes during the day, the Lexington Club, 19th Street and Lexington Street, for lesbians, and many others that provide solace until the early hours. Tonic, 2360 Polk Street, is a comfortably normal bar, which is popular with the occasional celebrity, while The Cloud 9 Motel, 34 Seventh Street, is an sumptuous venue with a padded VIP room, popular with the beautiful people.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in San Francisco.

Clubs: DJs are hot property in San Francisco and at 1015 Folsom, 1015 Folsom Street, even the uninitiated will understand their power. Music is loud enough to shake the foundations of both building and soul, with stunning lighting and some of the biggest names on the circuit. Local favourite, Club Six, 60 Sixth Street, SoMa, draws a diverse crowd to its six dance spaces and lounges. John Lee Hooker’s Boom Boom Boom Room, Fillmore Street at Geary Street, fills with a mixed age group, congregating for the genuine blues and boogie. The Endup, Sixth Street, is a SoMa favourite and known for its friendliness, great dance music and delicious cocktails. The Justice League, Divisadero Street, near Hayes Street, draws a diverse crowd for funk, hip-hop and international grooves. See Mission District hipsters and hear electronic music at 26 Mix, Twenty-Sixth Street and Mission. The Zodiac Club, 14th Street, serves drinks based on star signs, borne from the astrological expertise of owners Peter and Maria Garcia. The gay scene finds plenty of well-oiled and muscled hunks on Saturday nights at Club Universe and on Sundays at Pleasuredome. Both have a home at Club Townsend, Townsend Street.

Live Music: Yoshi’s, Embarcadero and Clay Street in Oakland, is the Bay Area jazz venue known for getting the top acts. Slim’s, 11th Street and Harrison Street, gets rock, blues, and world-music acts and is part owned by veteran guitarist Boz Scaggs. It doubles as a bar and concert hall and there is always a good view of the bands, many of which are more modern and alternative than you might expect. Bimbo’s, Columbus Avenue at Chestnut Street, covers a range of music, from punk to mellow solo artistes, in a retro setting that packs in the crowds. The Makeout Room on 22nd Street has dancing to live music.

City Statistics

Location: California, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 801,400 (city); 6,700,000 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 44% white, 31% Asian, 14% Hispanic, 8% black, 3% American-Indian, Pacific-Islander and other.
Religion: Majority Christian (Baptist and Catholic), Buddhist and Jewish.
Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 11C (51F).
Average July temp: 15C (59F).
Annual rainfall: 508mm (20 inches).

Special Events

Dr Martin Luther King Jr’s Birthday, celebrations, march and rally, Jan 15, Yerba Buena Gardens
Independent Film Festival, Jan-Feb, Castro, Roxie and Parkway theatres
Chinese New Year, largest night-time illuminated parade in North America, Feb, Chinatown
San Francisco Tribal, Folk & Textile Art Show, North American folk art dealers selling pottery, baskets, jewelry, and textiles, Feb, Fort Mason
Antiquarian Book Fair, world’s largest rare book fair takes, Feb, Concourse Exhibition Center
San Francisco Jazz Spring Season, Mar-Jun, Masonic Auditorium
St Patrick’s Day, celebrations and parade, 17 Mar, Ghirardeli Square and parade from Second Street and Market Street to City Hall
Cherry Blossom Festival, stalls, Martial arts demonstrations, tea ceremonies, Japanese music and dance and a parade, Apr, Japantown, Post Street and Webster Street, parade from Civic Center to Fillmore Street
San Francisco International Film Festival, more than 100 films and videos showcased, Apr-May, Castro Theatre and other venues
St Stupid’s Parade, celebration of April Fool’s Day, 1 Apr, from Embarcadero Plaza to Washington Square in North Beach Union Street Easter Parade and Festival, Apr, Union Street Citibank Spring Cup Regatta, America’s Cup and USA Olympic team sailors compete, May, northern waterfront
San Francisco Examiner Bay To Breakers Footrace, the world’s largest footrace with more than 70,000 costumed runners, May, The Embarcadero to Great Highway
Carnival, San Francisco’s version of Mardi Gras, May, Mission District
Memorial Day, national holiday, 26 May, throughout the city
North Beach Festival, the city’s oldest street fair, Jun, North Beach
Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender Pride Parade, Jun, The Embarcadero to Civic Center
Stern Grove Festival, free events every Sun afternoon, Jun-Aug, 19th Avenue and Sloat Boulevard
San Francisco Jazz Festival, Jun-Oct, various outdoor venues
San Francisco Jazz & Wine Festival, Jul, The Embarcadero Centre
San Francisco Marathon, Jul, Golden Gate Park to the Civic Center
Fourth of July Festivals, celebrations and fireworks, 4 Jul, Oakland and Fisherman’s Wharf
San Francisco Shakespeare Festival, free performances on Sat and Sun 1330, Aug-Sep, Golden Gate Park
Al la Carte, A la Park, food, wine and beer festival, Aug-Sep, Golden Gate Park
Opera in the Park, Sep, Golden Gate Park
Labor Day, national holiday, Sep, throughout the city
San Francisco Fringe Festival, theatre performances, Sep, various downtown venues
Chocolate Festival, Sep, Ghirardelli Square
Viva Las Americas, music and dance celebrating Hispanic heritage, Sep, Pier 39
Polk Street Fair, music, arts, crafts and food, Sep, Polk Street
Blues Festival, Sep, Great Meadow above Fort Mason
Folsom Street Fair, kinky adults-only festival, Sep, Folsom Street
Castro Street Fair, fine arts and crafts, merchants, dance, performances, and community groups, Oct, Castro Street
Italian Heritage Parade, Oct, along Columbus Avenue, ending at Washington Square.
San Francisco Arts Festival, arts and crafts, Oct, Bill Graham Civic Auditorium
Exotic Erotic Ball, adult indoor masquerade ball, Oct, Cow Palace
San Francisco Jazz Festival, Oct-Nov, various venues
Halloween San Francisco, 31 Oct, Civic Center and Castro Street
Veterans Day Parade, 11 Nov, Market Street
Tree Lighting Festivities, Nov, Pier 39, Ghirardelli Square and Esplanade Gardens at Yerba Buena Center
Great Dickens Christmas Fair, recreation of a 19th-century Victorian London fair, Nov-Dec, Cow Palace

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2
33cl bottle of beer: US$3.50
Financial Times newspaper: US$1
36-exposure colour film: US$4
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.25
Adult football ticket: From US$58
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From US$30

1 American Dollar (US$1) = 0.52; C$1.25; A$1.28; 0.77
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005