World City Guide

Mini Guide of San Diego

City Overview

Sun, surf and exquisite scenery are the qualities that most visitors equate with San Diego. Nestled in the southern most corner of California’s coastline, the city is blessed with sun year round and temperate weather during most of its winter months. Many travellers come here just to bask in the warmth and experience what it is like to live in a Southern California paradise. Surrounded by long sandy peninsulas (which the locals call ‘islands’), San Diego provides the optimum setting for a vacation getaway. Pristine beaches – such as Coronado Island’s secluded waterfront – and trendy upper-class shopping districts, overlooking the bluffs of San Diego’s ‘jewel’, La Jolla, are two of the unique characteristics of this city.

SeaWorld, on the shores of Mission Bay, is yet another. It is the city’s closest and most respected link to the ocean and in many ways, San Diego’s central identity. The centre for several wildlife conservation programmes, as well as a source for public education, its name is now inextricably linked with San Diego. The more obvious ties to the sea are evident in the sun-tanned, barefoot, bikini-clad surfers that fill the city, especially just north of Mission Bay, where the small shops, coffee houses and restaurants of the city’s beach area, the heart and soul of Southern California lifestyle, are located.

Historic communities like the Gaslamp Quarter – San Diego’s first commercial district – and Little Italy, which once supported a multi-million-Dollar tuna industry, are now centres for performing and visual arts. Once a year, artists in the downtown sector open their studios and galleries to the public as a celebration of the area’s artistic heritage. Music is an integral part of San Diego’s heritage as well – it has become the theme for its historic Gaslamp Quarter festivals and the blues and jazz musician, Jim Croce, is a vibrant part of the city’s heritage. Home to dozens of cultural organisations, writers’ guilds and artist co-operatives, San Diego is one of Southern California’s most important centres for the arts.

San Diego, once a thriving commercial fishing port, is now turning its resources and energy towards tourism. But its reputation as a top North American travel destination owes as much to its history and multicultural status as to its stunning location or arts scene. Considered the birthplace of California, San Diego began with a little-known 18th-century Spanish missionary by the name of Father Junipero Serra. In 1769, Serra established the first of several Catholic missions on a grassy knoll, above what was later to become San Diego. By the beginning of the 19th century, Serra had established missions up and down the coast of ‘Alta’ and ‘Baja’ California (Upper and Lower California) – what is now the west coast of the United States and Mexico. Presidio (‘The Fort’), as California’s first mission is called, remains a testament to San Diego’s Spanish origins. The Fort’s high whitewashed walls, tiled roofs and manicured gardens reflect the flavour and architecture that is still to be found in much of contemporary Southern California.

The Spanish influences remain in this day, especially as San Diego is barely an hour’s drive from the Mexico–US border. The evidence of this inextricable connection with its Hispanic beginnings is everywhere, although most notably in cross-border festivals, such as the Cinco de Mayo celebrations, the San Diego International Film Festival and the Latino Film Festival. Yet this city, which attributes its modest beginnings to the efforts of a single Spanish monk, is also home to more than a dozen world faiths, including Hindu, Islam and Judaism. It is not one single city; it is a patchwork of cultures, neighbourhoods and small, uniquely defined communities – the epitome of the American melting pot.

Getting There By Air

San Diego International Airport (SAN)
Tel: (619) 686 8065 or 231 2100, 24-hour recording.
Website: www.portofsandiego.org/sandiego_airport/index.html

San Diego International Airport is located at Lindberg Field, less than ten kilometres (six miles) from downtown San Diego. While it is not the largest airport in California (Los Angeles International and San Francisco International are more than twice its size), it handles many of the connecting flights to Mexico and South America, as well as Europe, Canada and domestic locations. An average 11.5 million passengers use its facilities per year.

Major airlines: Along with American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.aa.com), San Diego International handles 16 major airlines, including Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, America West, British Airways, Delta, Continental and US Airlines. British Airways operates daily flights from London (Gatwick) to San Diego.

Approximate flight times to San Diego: From London is 18 hours 25 minutes; from New York is 6 hours; from Los Angeles is 50 minutes; from Toronto is 6 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 15 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include ATMs, money exchange kiosks, a small selection of restaurants and lounges and several gift and newspaper stores. There are also Internet kiosks throughout the three terminals. All of the major car hire operators maintain offices at the airport, including Avis, Budget, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: American Airlines, Delta, TWA and US Airlines all provide VIP lounges for their business customers. The lounges are equipped with standard services, such as fax and photocopy facilities, computer access and telephones.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: San Diego Metropolitan Transit System (tel: (619) 233 3004 or 685 4900) operates a regular bus service that connects the airport terminals with the downtown quarter and provides easy connection to bus, train and trolley services within the city. Bus 992 leave for downtown approximately every ten minutes, daily between 0500 and 0100 – connecting bus, trolley and Coaster train services to outlying areas of the county run every 15-30 minutes. Bus fares are US$2.25 to downtown (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). Additionally, most of the major hotels in San Diego’s Hotel Circle and surrounding areas offer an airport shuttle service, either for free or a nominal cost. Express Shuttle of San Diego (tel: (800) 900 7433; website: www.xpressshuttle.com) offers a shared shuttle service.

Getting There By Water

The Port of San Diego (website: www.portofsandiego.org) is overseen by the Port Administration, 3165 Pacific Highway (tel: (619) 989 9200). The B Street Cruise Ship Terminal (tel: (619) 293 8966), located at B Street, Broadway, is the main hub for several international cruise ship destinations. Facilities at the terminal include ATM, gift shop, restaurant/lounge and visitor’s bureau.

Boat services: Holland America (tel: (800) 426 0327; website: www.hollandamerica.com) operates cruise ships to Hawaii and Mexico. Celebrity Cruises (tel: (800) 398 9819, USA or (0800) 018 2525, UK), offers cruises to Puerto Rico by way of the Panama Canal, with stops in Mexico, Costa Rica, Columbia and Aruba. Princess Cruises (tel: (800) 774 6237; website: www.princess.com) offers packages to South America, the South Pacific, as well as Italy, Greece and Turkey.

Transport to the city: The B Street Terminal is located at the foot of Broadway – an easy walk to Downtown. Alternatively, bus 2, 2A, 20 or 992 run from the terminal to Downtown San Diego (journey time – 3 minutes).

Getting There By Road

Southern California has an excellent network of interstate and state highways. Interstates are designated by an ‘I’ and a corresponding number. Speed limits on interstate highways vary from 96kph (60mph) to 120kph (75mph). Urban speed limits are generally 40-48kph (25-30mph). Traffic drives on the right. U-turns are legal in the State of California, unless posted otherwise, as is turning right at stoplights. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. The minimum driving age is 16, with restrictions. Children under the age of six years or less than 22.39kg (60lb) must be carried in a child restraint seat.

California does not require International Driving Permits. It accepts all foreign driving licences. Car insurance is mandatory in the state of California.

The local automobile association is Automobile Association of Southern California – AASC (tel: (800) 400 4222) a regional affiliate of the American Automobile Association. There is a reciprocal service agreement between the AAA and the UK AA.

Emergency breakdown services:
AASC (800) 400 4222
Good Sam RV Roadside Service (800) 905 9911

Routes to the city: San Diego is California’s most southern coastal metropolis. It is the hub of three major interstate highway systems – I-5 (running north–south from the US–Canada border to the US–Mexico border), I-15, which begins in San Diego and runs northeast to Las Vegas, Nevada, and I-8 East, which also begins in San Diego and connects with I-10 outside of Phoenix, Arizona. San Diego also has a new east–west corridor, which is designed to accommodate the increased rush-hour traffic to suburban areas east of San Diego. This four-lane highway is still under construction but is expected to ease much of the congestion on San Diego’s main easterly corridor, the I-15. The I-5 is the connecting artery for most of California’s large cities – Los Angeles and San Francisco are both directly north of San Diego and are within a day’s commuting distance via I-5.

Approximate driving times to San Diego: From US–Mexico border – 45 minutes; Los Angeles – 2 hours 30 minutes; Phoenix (Arizona) – 5 hours 40 minutes; Las Vegas (Nevada) – 5 hours 45 minutes; San Francisco – 8 hours 45 minutes.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) operates buses throughout the USA, as well as to numerous destinations in Canada and a limited number locations in Mexico, from the Greyhound Terminal (tel: (619) 239 3266), 120 West Broadway, at First Street. Tickets for specific destinations can be purchased at the terminal before the time of departure.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates from Santa Fe Station, 1050 Kettner Boulevard, corner of Broadway. Facilities at the station are limited to a snack bar, vending machines, phones and washrooms.

In June 2002, the company announced that it was having financial difficulties and may consider cutting some of its routes. Travellers are advised to confirm their reservations immediately prior to departure.

Rail services: Amtrak operates services that stop at multiple stations along California’s scenic west coast, including hourly departures to Los Angeles (journey time – 2 hours 45 minutes), and daily trips to San Francisco (journey time – 16 hours) and Las Vegas (journey time – 9 hours). Services also go up to Seattle and link up with Canada’s popular Via Rail passenger service in Vancouver, British Columbia Canada.

Transport to the city: The Amtrak terminal is located Downtown, within a ten-minute walk or three-minute bus ride (bus 2, 2A, 20 or 992) of Downtown hotels. Buses to Hotel Circle and other areas of the city stop outside of the terminal and run every ten to 15 minutes.

Getting Around

Getting Around
Public Transport
San Diego Metropolitan Transit System (tel: (619) 238 0100 or 233 3004 or (800) 266 6883, for info; fax: (619) 696 8159; website: www.sdcommute.com) operates three types of public transport within the County of San Diego. Public buses and the trolley operate daily throughout the city every ten to 20 minutes, with buses generally operating between 0600-2400 and trolleys around 0400-0100 (times vary depending on the route).

The Coaster train service provides increased transport to outlying areas, linking seven coastal communities as far north as Oceanside. Six Coaster trains serve the morning rush hour and six run during the afternoon rush hour, with two extra midday services. There are also four services throughout the day (approximately 0930-1930) on Saturday.

Bus fares are usually US$2 but vary according to the distance travelled. Trolley fares within downtown cost US$1.25, otherwise they vary according to distance travelled and cost US$1.25-2.50. Coaster fares depend on distance and cost US$3-4.75. Fares are paid on embarking – exact change is usually required.

Passes – known as The Ready Pass, good for both bus and trolley fares, and The Econo Pass, which is only good for San Diego County bus fares – are both available from The Transit Store, 102 Broadway. A one-day pass costs US$5, while a three-day pass costs US$10.

The San Diego-Coronado Ferry (tel: (619) 234 4111) shuttles commuters and visitors between the Broadway Pier at the intersection of Broadway and Harbor Streets and the Coronado Shopping Centre on Coronado Island. The ferry leaves the Broadway Pier every hour on the hour 0900-2100 Sunday-Thursday and 0900-2200 Friday and Saturday. The ferry leaves the Coronado Ferry Dock every half-hour 0930-2130 Sunday-Thursday and 0930-2200 Friday and Saturday. The fare is US$2 per person and US$0.50 for bicycles.

Taxis
Yellow Cab (tel: (619) 234 6161; website: www.driveu.com) operates throughout San Diego County. It is best for visitors to request a taxi by telephone, although it is possible to hail them in the street. Waiting times for taxis can be anywhere up to one hour. Taxis cost US$1.90 per mile and a 10-15% tip is appropriate for good service.

Limousines
Cloud 9 Shuttle (tel: (858) 505 4900; e-mail: cloud9@cloud9shuttle.com; website: www.cloud9shuttle.com) provides a wide variety of services, including Cadillacs and limousines. Prices vary according to the distance and time required – from US$35 to the airport, up to US$90 for a round trip. 1st Class Limousine (tel: (619) 283 6300; website: www.1stclasslimo) offers limousines at rates starting from US$40 per hour.

Driving in the City
San Diego is well laid out with several well-maintained highways that serve as major arteries to outlying districts. Highways are generally easy to follow, although California’s Interstate highways maintain high speeds and can be unnerving for first-time visitors. As in most Southern California cities, early morning (0630-0900) and late afternoon (1500-1900) are peak rush-hour times and driving during these periods should be avoided. Areas such as Downtown, Mission Bay, Coronado Bridge and the major beach areas are high congestion areas during rush hour – highways and major streets leading into these areas are usually heavily congested. The high occupant vehicle lanes (HOV) are designed for vehicles carrying two-three passengers or more (highways differ in their minimum limit of passengers). There are stiff fines for vehicles carrying less than the stated minimum number of passengers. Left lanes that are not HOV lanes are reserved for passing vehicles.

Public parking in the Mission Beach and Pacific Beach areas is usually at a premium on weekends and holidays. Residential areas often have signage indicating the days and hours that visitors are allowed to park on the street. Vehicles that do not obey the regulations may be towed away. Parking prices are US$3-7 per day in parking garages and US$1 per hour for metered parking.

It is best to use the bus, trolley or train to reach most areas, although there are a few more remote attractions best reached by car or tour bus.

Car Hire
Car hire agencies in the United States require a credit card or cash deposit when hiring out a car. The minimum age to hire a car is usually 25 years and the driver must be in possession of a valid driver’s license – an international driver’s permit is not required but is accepted. Some agencies (Budget and National specifically) will allow drivers aged 21-24 years to drive but will charge an extra fee of US$20-25 per day. Insurance is mandatory when driving and car hire companies normally carry their own optional insurance. Customers who have their own US car insurance are normally covered while driving a hired vehicle.

There are several major agencies located in the city. These include Avis (tel: (619) 688 5030 or (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 221 1203; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and National (tel: (619) 497 6777 or (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com). Rates are around US$25-50 per day for a mid-sized car.

Bicycle Hire
Cycling is a popular past-time in San Diego and the city has no shortage of bicycle shops to accommodate this. Bike Tours San Diego, 509 Fifth Avenue (tel: (619) 238 2444; fax: (619) 238 1617; e-mail: biketoursd@aol.com; website: www.bike-tours.com), provides both bike hire and guided bike tours and is centrally located in the Downtown area. Their rates start from US$18 per day. They also offer both standard scenic tours and trail bike tours within the San Diego County.

San Diego Blazing Saddles, 3221 Mission Boulevard (tel: (858) 488 9595; fax: (858) 488 9597; website: www.blazingsaddles.com), offers bike hire and free self-guided tours. They are located in Mission Beach, close to the boardwalk and parks. They also carry mountain bikes for those intrepid trail-riders who prefer the uncrowded backcountry. Rates start from US$28 per day.

Business

Business Profile
San Diego has benefited considerably from the North American Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which has helped to stimulate commerce from both Canada and Mexico. San Diego’s deep sea fishing industry died about 20-25 years ago, when tuna stocks were depleted in Southern California waters. Now, the county’s three major industries are manufacturing, tourism and the military. Cross-border affiliations with Mexican tourist destinations, such as Tijuana and Ensenada, have increased Southern California’s popularity as a year-round travel destination, as well as stimulated the region’s recreational goods industry. Tourism is the third largest revenue generator of the city’s economy and was hit hard by the effects of the tragedies of 11 September 2001. In 2001, there were 14.7 million overnight visitors to San Diego, down from 15.2 in 2000. Of these visits, 85% were for pleasure – most are made by visitors living in the Western region of the United States.

High-tech, knowledge-based industries, such as consumer electronics, wireless communications, software, computers and biotechnology, have also profited from increased domestic and international trade since the late 1990s, resulting in a 6.4% increase in economic production in the San Diego County area. San Diego’s unemployment rate is fairly low at 3.7% compared to the California state average of 5.8% and the national average of 6%.

Major business districts include the city’s main financial area, Downtown San Diego, Sorrento Valley and Kearney Mesa, both of which are major manufacturing and commerce areas north of Downtown, and La Jolla, an upper-class tourism and retail district, also north of downtown San Diego.

A number of multinational corporations have manufacturing or research and development offices in the San Diego and Tijuana areas. The most notable is the Sanyo Corporation, which has been a leader in fostering commerce between the two regions. Sony Corporation is a long-standing resident of the Southern California area, with manufacturing, engineering, research and development and entertainment facilities in the San Diego, Los Angeles and Tijuana areas. A number of other San Diego based companies, such as Axxis Computer Technologies, Encad Inc, which manufactures high-performance printers, and Global Fax Network, which provides interactive telecommunication services, also support a growing multinational trade.

Business Etiquette
Dress codes tend to be less conservative in San Diego than in many eastern American cities. Suits are not always mandatory at business functions and many restaurants do not maintain dress codes. Standard business hours in San Diego are 0800-1700. A meeting may include brunch at a popular seaside restaurant or dinner beside the pool at the host’s hillside residence. Southern Californians tend to be open and laid back and it is not uncommon to be invited to someone’s home for dinner, as a prelude or conclusion to a business meeting. A smartly pressed suit or dress will not be considered out of place and is often the best and safest choice on first meetings, although business travellers should include some casual wear in their wardrobe, such as shorts, lounge and swimwear.

California is world famous for its wines and these are often featured in casual and formal dining. A high-quality Californian Chardonnay or Pinot Noir may be appropriate as a gift when being invited to someone’s house. Non-smoking bylaws are enforced in most of the city’s public establishments and many Southern California residents do not smoke and are sometimes sensitive about smoking in their house.

Business cards are usually exchanged during introductions and e-mail is a standard manner of correspondence in Southern California.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Most visitors consider SeaWorld, in San Diego’s popular Mission Bay area, to be the city’s key attraction. Just to the north, the city’s beach areas – La Jolla (home of the Birch Aquarium at Scripps and a famed scuba diving area), Pacific Beach and Mission Beach – provide all the sunbathing and swimming that visitors could need. Coronado Island – the tip of a long land spit just west of Downtown – also has several famous beaches, including the Silver Strand State Beach. The historic Hotel Del Coronado, north of the Strand, has been a favourite filming location for many years and is worth a visit.

The Downtown area is home to the old Gaslamp Quarter, with its 19th-century stately houses and jazz and blues bars, as well as over 15 museums and attractions in the lush Balboa Park. The world-famous San Diego Zoo is located at the north end of the park. Old Town, California’s 18th-century birthplace, is located just north of Downtown and contains the majestic Presidio (‘Fort’), overlooks San Diego Bay amid spacious manicured gardens. Northeast of Downtown is the Wild Animal Park, a larger, unique version of the San Diego Zoo. Outlying parks like the Mission Trails Regional Park (again northeast of Downtown) are a nature-lover’s paradise. South of Downtown is Mexico, with the quirky curio shops, old rambling streets and unusual seaside attractions of Tijuana.

Tourist Information
San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau
11 Horton Plaza, at First Avenue and F Street
Tel: (619) 236 1212.
E-mail: sdinfo@sandiego.org
Website: www.sandiego.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.

Passes
The Southern California Value Pass allows admission to both SeaWorld San Diego and Universal Studios Hollywood, within a 14-day period. The pass costs US$75 and can be purchased at either attraction or on their websites.

The Two-Park Ticket includes a ‘deluxe’ admission to the Zoo (with a narrated bus tour and aerial tram tour) and a Wild Animal Park general admission. The ticket, which is available for purchase at either establishment, costs US$40.75 and must be used within five days.

The Passport to Balboa Park Pass provides access to 13 of the museums withing Balboa Park. The pass lasts seven days, costs US$30 and can be purchased from the House of Hospitality, within the park.

Key Attractions

Key Attractions
SeaWorld
For many, the name SeaWorld is synonymous with San Diego. The 77-hectare (190-acre) marine park is one of California’s most popular attractions and for good reason. In addition to being a leader in marine conservation, it is one of the few entertainment parks in which visitors can experience an ‘up close and personal’ encounter with some of the world’s largest marine animals.

Built in 1964, the park is best known for its work with killer whales (now known as Orcas) and dolphins. Acrobatic stunts, featuring the Orca whales, Shamu, Baby Shamu and Namu, highlight the unusual behaviours and talents of trained marine mammals. The Dolphin Interaction Program (DIP) offers visitors a chance to help in the feeding of dolphins and to experience what it is like to ‘swim’ with one of the world’s most unusual warm-water residents.

The ‘Wild Arctic’ simulated flight transports visitors outside Southern California to the world of the walrus, polar bear and beluga whale. The show imitates the feel and view of a jet helicopter flying high above one of the world’s most forbidding landscapes.

Adventure rides are a new and popular attraction at SeaWorld, for example the ‘Shipwreck Rapids’ ride steers participants down turbulent river rapids, through an underground cavern and past menacing looking traps.

500 SeaWorld Drive
Tel: (619) 226 3901. Fax: (619) 226 3952.
Website: www.seaworld.com
Transport: Bus 9 or 24.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (basic hours); hours vary according to season and day of month/week – longest peak hours 0900-2300 (summer).
Admission: US$42.95.

Balboa Park
One of San Diego’s oldest natural reserves, this 485.6-hectare (1200-acre) park is an easy walk from Downtown San Diego and is a favourite landmark for locals and visitors alike. On summer weekends, the park is filled with acrobats and musicians. Its exquisitely landscaped paths and meadows are over 100 years old, although Balboa Park’s signature building, the Casa del Prado, was built for the 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition, to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal. The building’s ornate Colonial-style architecture, high archways and tiled walkways have been meticulously preserved through the years.

The main street in the park is El Prado, around which there are over 15 museums – one to suit just about any interest and historical focus. The park is also home to the San Diego Zoo (see below) and the House of Pacific Regions, an international display of culture, food and customs that is held every Sunday 1200-1700.

The Park’s oldest and most famous museum is the Reuben H Fleet Science Center, with exhibits that range from archaeology and history to Michael Jordan and basketball. It has an on-site planetarium and regularly hosts IMAX wide-screen movies with a strong educational flavour. Some of the other most celebrated museums include the Automotive Museum (featuring over 80 classic models of car and motorbike), the Museum of Man (noted to have exceptional exhibits on anthropology and archaeology), the San Diego Aerospace Museum (covering the beginning of flight to Man’s most recent advances in space travel) and the Museum of Art (regularly featuring artists from around the world).

Art-lovers will find a wide range of topics, artists and mediums to explore throughout the Park’s many art museums, such as the Museum of Photographic Arts, the Timken Museum of Art and the San Diego Art Institute. There are also cultural centres, such as Centro Cultural de la Raza (an interdisciplinary centre that promotes and provides resources for Mexican, Chicano and indigenous art and culture) and WorldBeat Center (dedicated to promoting understanding and appreciation of African cultures and music).

Other attractions include Japanese Friendship Garden, Mingei International Museum, San Diego Hall of Champions, San Diego Historical Society Museum, San Diego Junior Theatre, San Diego Model Railroad Museum, San Diego Natural History Museum, The Globe Theatres, United Nations Building and the Veteran’s Memorial Center Museum.

Central entrances are at Sixth Avenue and El Prado, and Park Avenue and Village Place
Tel: (619) 235 1100 or 239 0512 (House of Hospitality).
Website: www.balboapark.org
Transport: Bus 7.

Reuben H Fleet Science Center
1875 El Prado
Tel: (619) 238 1233.
Website: www.rhfleet.org
Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0930-2000, Fri 0930-2145.
Admission: US$6.75 (exhibit galleries); US$11.50 (exhibit galleries and one IMAX film); US$15 (exhibit galleries and two IMAX films).

Automotive Museum
2080 Pan American Plaza
Tel: (619) 231 2886. Fax: (619) 231 9869
E-mail: info@sdautomuseum.org
Website: www.sdautomuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: US$7.

Museum of Man
1350 El Prado
Tel: (619) 239 2001. Fax: (619) 239 2749.
E-mail: mail@museumofman.org
Website: www.museumofman.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1630.
Admission: US$6.

San Diego Aerospace Museum
2001 Pan American Plaza
Tel: (619) 234 8291. Fax: (619) 233 4527.
Website: www.aerospacemuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1630 (regular hours); daily 1000-1730 (summer).
Admission: US$8.

Museum of Art
1450 El Prado
Tel: (619) 232 7931. Fax: (619) 232 9367.
Website: www.sdmart.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800; Thurs 1000-2100.
Admission: US$8.

Museum of Photographic Arts
1649 El Prado
Tel: (619) 238 7559. Fax: (619) 238 8777
E-mail: info@mopa.org
Website: www.mopa.org
Opening hours: Fri-Wed 1000-1700; Thurs 1000-2100.
Admission: US$6 (gallery); US$5 (theatre).

Timken Museum of Art
1500 El Prado
Tel: (619) 239 5548.
Website: http://gort.ucsd.edu/sj/timken/
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1630; Sun 1330-1630.
Admission: Free.

San Diego Art Institute
1439 El Prado.
Tel: (619) 236 0011. Fax: (619) 236 1974.
Website: www.sandiego-art.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1600; Sun 1200-1600.
Admission: US$3.

San Diego Zoo
Known for its conservation efforts, the San Diego Zoo is one of the only zoos to have successfully bred pandas in captivity. It maintains several endangered species exhibits and works with reserves and conservation groups worldwide, to encourage protection of threatened wildlife. The 40.5-hectare (100-acre) reserve has rambling scenic walkways for foot travel, or can be enjoyed by a narrated bus tour.

One of its newest attractions is the Ituri Forest Exhibit, modelled after the African tropical forest of the same name. The 1.6-hectare (4-acre) exhibit features a life-size model of a traditional Mbuti camp and an underwater viewing area of the forest’s aquatic residents. The zoo’s Sun Bear exhibit is home to several Malayan sun bears, known best for the unusual sun-coloured crescents on their chest and their playful comical nature. The Zoo also houses an exhibit of lowland gorillas, which are known for their size and remarkable agility. Tiger River is one of the zoo’s more remarkable exhibits – the animal enclosures are situated along a winding, misty trail amid waterfalls, grassy knolls and a tropical forest of more than 5000 types of exotic plants. This mini rainforest features tigers, Burmese pythons, Malaysian tapirs and narrow-snouted crocodiles called Gavials. The Polar Bear Plunge is also not to be missed – home as it is to several polar bears in a simulated Arctic tundra environment. The Zoo hosts several ‘after dark’ events, including live music performances and up-close animal encounters.

Park Avenue and Zoo Place
Tel: (619) 675 7900. Fax: (619) 557 3970.
Website: www.sandiegozoo.org
Transport: Bus 7.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1600 (basic opening hours); varies according to season.
Admission: US$19.50 (regular admission); US$32 (deluxe admission with bus ride and Skyfari aerial tram ride).

Birch Aquarium at Scripps
Scripps Institute of Oceanography is one of the pioneers in oceanographic studies. Visitors can get a glimpse of some of the Institute’s more unique projects at its Birch Aquarium. Public presentations and displays include lectures, whale-watching expeditions, tide-pooling trips for families and live cam demonstrations of the Institute’s current research programmes.

Among its more impressive exhibits is the Kelp Forest, a giant live exhibit of one of nature’s more impressive habitats. It is home to thousands of different kinds of sea life, from leopard sharks to the minuscule kelp fish that survive in camouflage along the leaves of the tall plant. A video camera provides a close-up view of many of the Aquarium’s inhabitants. The sea dragon exhibit features the Aquarium’s newest inhabitant, a miniature sea horse that actually looks more like a tiny dragon. The Aquarium’s Jelly Tanks are home to some of the more beautiful and exotic types of jellyfish in the world, such as moon jellys, the lion mane jellys and the purple-striped jellys.

2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla
Tel: (858) 534 FISH/3474. Fax: (858) 534 7114.
E-mail: cclarke@ucsd.edu
Website: www.aquarium.ucsd.edu
Transport: Bus 34 or 150.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: US$9.50.

Old Town State Park
San Diego’s Old Town is where California’s Spanish history first began. The area is home to the famous Presidio mission, which was established by 18th-century Spanish missionaries in 1769. Situated on the grassy knolls above San Diego Bay, the Presidio (Spanish for ‘fort’) commands a stunning view of the city, Old Town proper and the Californian coastline. Visitors can wander the Presidio’s immaculately sculpted gardens or visit the historical museum and mission located within the fort.

The Old Town State Park includes a number of residential and commercial buildings down the hill from the Presidio in the main part of Old Town. The old school house and blacksmith’s building, both of which were constructed of adobe in the early 1800s, are some of Old Town’s last remaining pioneer structures. Mexican curio shops and restaurants are scattered throughout the Old Town residential area, which is now one of San Diego’s upper-class neighbourhoods. The Bazaar del Mundo (World Bazaar) is a shopping area with a number of well-known Mexican restaurants. Surrounded by elegantly sculpted water fountains and lush green scenery, it features Mariachi music most summer evenings. Old Town also has its own popular live theatre, which attracts large crowds throughout the summer months.

San Diego Avenue and Twiggs Street
Tel: (619) 220 5422.
Website: www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=663
Transport: Bus 9, 34, 34A or 44; trolley ‘Mission San Diego’.
Opening hours: Daily 1000 1700.
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Further Distractions
Mission Trails Regional Park
This 2300-hectare (5750-acre) park on the east side of San Diego is not to be confused with the many other 18th-century missions that are scattered throughout California, including the original birthplace of San Diego, El Presidio in the Old Town. The Mission Trails Regional Park is a naturalist’s paradise. On any given day, one can see a variety of animals that are indigenous to this semi-arid landscape, including coyotes, fox, hummingbirds and the small gecko lizard. The park hosts ecology and guided interpretive walks all year round. It is also possible to camp in the park during the summer, as there are 46 fairly primitive campsites that are accessible to vehicles

1 Father Junipero Serra Trail, off Hwy-8 East
Tel: (619) 668 3275 or 2748, for campsite reservations.
E-mail: mtrp@mtrp.org
Website: www.mtrp.org
Transport: Orange ‘El Cajon’ trolley to bus 115.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: Free (park and Interpretive Centre); US$13 (camping), second vehicle US$3 and pets US$2.

Seaport Village
Named for its historic waterfront setting on the shores of San Diego Bay, Seaport Village is one of the city’s more unusual ‘malls’. Located at the southern edge of the city’s old Embarcadero wharf area, the village is primarily a shopping and eating district. However, the beach area does have seven kilometres (four miles) of walking paths, ponds and lakes, providing scenic views of the waterfront, to explore.

849 West Harbor Drive
Tel: (619) 235 4014.
E-mail: conte@spvillage.com
Website: www.spvillage.com
Transport: Bus 4; Orange ‘Santee’ trolley.
Opening hours: Shops open daily 1000-2100 (until 2200 summer).
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Tours of the City
Walking Tours
The Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation, William Heath Davis House Museum, 410 Island Avenue, Downtown (tel: (619) 233 4692; fax: (619) 233 4148; e-mail: gqhf@aol.com; website: www.gaslampquarter.org), has several fascinating tours of the Gaslamp Quarter, San Diego’s oldest neighbourhood. Self-guided tours cost US$2 and guided tours US$3-8. The guided tours leave from William Heath Davis House Museum on Saturday at 1100 and take approximately two hours.

San Diego’s Old Town Boosters, Robinson Rose Historical House and Museum, 4002 Wallace Street (tel: (619) 469 3174; fax: (619) 220 5421; website: www.ot-boot.com), offers guided tours of the Old Town’s 19th-century historic neighbourhoods and national park – often by guides dressed in period clothing. Attractions include an Early American pioneer cemetery, one of the Old Town’s oldest churches and a haunted house. Many of the Old Towns stately early American Victorian houses were relocated to the area some years ago and are now open for public viewing. One-hour tours cost US$5 or US$22 for a tour with lunch and fashion promenade. Tours depart from Robinson Rose Historical House and Museum (also the Information Centre for Old Town).

Bus Tours
Gray Line/Coach USA (tel: (619) 491 0011; website: www.coachusa.com/sandiego) offers a four-hour ‘City Tour’, taking in La Jolla, Pacific Beach, Point Loma, the Embarcadero, Balboa Park, downtown and Old Town, for US$26. They also offer scheduled tours to many of the attractions, including SeaWorld, San Diego Zoo, San Diego Wild Animal Park, Legoland, Disneyland, Universal Studios and shopping trips to Tijuana. The tour picks up passengers every half an hour at various locations throughout the city. Regular stops include the Old Town, Sea World, Harbor Island, Gaslamp District, Horton Plaza and the San Diego Zoo. Visitors may wish to call the bus company to confirm pick up locations nearest to their hotel.

Other Tours
San Diego has built its reputation on its seaports, so it stands to reason that a visit would not be complete without a guided tour of the Bay. There are several options open to visitors, such as whale-watching excursions to viewing Californian grey whales or romantic dinner tours complete with dancing and a gourmet dinner. When in season (mid-December through March), Hornblower Cruises and Events (tel: (619) 686 8700; e-mail: sd@hornblower.com; website: www.hornblower.com) offers three-and-a-half-hour whale-watching tours, costing US$25. One- or two-hour harbour tours are also available for US$15 and US$20 respectively. Tours depart from the B Street Cruise Ship Terminal, Harbor Drive. The Birch Aquarium at Scripps (tel: (858) 534 3474; e-mail: aqminfo@aquavelva.ucsd.edu; website: www.aquarium.ucsd.edu) provides narrated whale-watching tours.

For personalised sailing tours, Classic Sailing Adventures (tel: (619) 224 0800 or (800) 659 0141; website: www.classicsailingadventures.com) offers romantic sunset sails for two to six passengers. Their four-hour whale-watching cruises depart daily at 0830 and 1300 December-March or (only 1300 April-November). In the summer season, there is also a shorter champagne sunset cruise, which sails at 1730-1930. Cruises cost US$60 and depart from Shelter Island Marina.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Carlsbad Ranch: The Flower Fields at Carlsbad Ranch (tel: (760) 431 0352; e-mail: info@theflowerfields.com; website: www.theflowerfields.com) are a relaxing way of experiencing the Southern California countryside in springtime. The Flower Fields includes a new rose garden and educational displays and is open mid-March to early May, from 1000 until one hour before dusk. Admission is US$5. The Ranch is close to the beaches and town of Carlsbad and can be reached by I-5 north, turning east at the Palomar Airport Road in Carlsbad. It is located very near Legoland – the two can be combined for a full day excursion.

San Juan Capistrano Mission: Every March, crowds gather at the San Juan Capistrano Mission (tel: (949) 234 1300) to welcome back the Mission’s beloved swallows. The event is celebrated with a one-day festival and is one of the highlights of the region. Built in the early 1800s, the Mission is considered one of the more beautiful examples of early Southern Californian architecture. The mission is open all year round but is best during the spring, when its carefully sculpted gardens are also in bloom. The Mission is located at the intersection of Ortega Highway and Camino Capistrano, which can be reached by taking I-5 north to Ortega Highway.

For a Whole Day

Disneyland: Not surprisingly, Disneyland Resort, 1313 Harbor Boulevard, Anaheim (tel: (714) 781 4565; website: http://disneyland.disney.go.com), is still one of Southern California’s most popular attractions, especially since it is within easy driving distance of both San Diego and Los Angeles. In addition to its old favourites, such as Main Street USA, where visitors can walk through replicas of early American stores, and Fantasyland, which celebrates some of Disney’s greatest character creations, there is now a brand-new entertainment park. California Adventure is an innovative combination of old-style American amusement parks and 21st-century Disney technology. Its Golden State attraction integrates modern-day concerns about ecology and wildlife preservation with the public’s old-fashioned love for entertainment and adventure. The Paradise Pier is a reminiscent journey back to the days of the original American amusement park, with 1950s version rides and Coney Island-style entertainment. A third attraction, Disney Downtown, recently has been added to the Disney complex. This includes 12 state-of-the-art cinemas, a jazz bar and restaurants featuring North American cuisine.

The easiest way for visitors to reach Disneyland from San Diego is by Greyhound bus (tel: (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) or by Amtrak rail (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com). Both companies provide a direct service to Anaheim and stop in Disneyland. By car, Disneyland is situated on the I-5 north to Anaheim.

A one-day admission to either Disneyland or California Adventure costs US$45. Multi-day tickets with admission to both parks are available and range from US$114 for three-day admission to US$141 for a four-day admission ticket. Other discounts and packages are also available. Standard hours for Disneyland are 0800-2300 and 0800-2100 for California Adventure. Tickets can be purchased at the gate or online.

Tijuana, Mexico: Located less than one hour south of downtown on I-5 is the Mexican border and the town of Tijuana (or TJ to friends). Once considered simply a place for curio shopping and casual dining (as well as gambling), Tijuana is now regarded as a viable vacation destination. Part of its notoriety is due to the increasing partnership between Mexico and the USA in promoting their tourist attractions. An example of this new partnership is the Fox Studio filming lot, located at the south end of Tijuana, in Rosarito Beach. The birthplace of James Cameron’s Titanic (1997), the studios now include a display of the sets and technology that was used in making the film. Visitors can also wander about parts of the studio and get a bird’s eye view of Fox’s upcoming creations.

Tijuana also includes a number of interesting cultural and historical attractions. The Tijuana Cultural Centre has a museum, performing arts theatre and an Omnimax theatre. Paraiso Azteca (Aztec Paradise) incorporates family entertainment with ancient Mexican history. For a tour of one of the area’s newest breweries, the TJ Brewery offers guided tours and has a bar on site. Tijuana also has a new racetrack and sportsbook facility, although most visitors to San Diego these days prefer Southern California’s new casinos, only minutes from downtown.

Most of the downtown attractions and shopping in Tijuana are accessible by walking paths. The San Diego transit goes straight to the border, where it is possible to enter Mexico by foot. Taxis are also available for outlying attractions. However, it is advisable for tourists to ask a hotel or tourist information bureau to call a taxi, as there have been some problems with some taxi operators and crime. It is also advisable for visitors to check directions before setting out and generally go to areas that have been recommended. Travellers intending to travel south of the Tijuana area – specifically further south than the town of Ensenada – or who are planning to remain in the country more than 72 hours, must first pay a Non Immigration fee of US$17, at any Mexican consulate (San Diego has a consulate office). Passports and US visas must be carried, even if one is only going to Tijuana for a shopping trip, as US Immigration will need to see them when re-entering the USA. Security precautions recently have been tightened at all US borders, which means that travellers should be prepared for extra long waits when re-entering the country and to show their purchases and receipts to the customs officials. Equally important, when driving a vehicle over the border, visitors should remember that most US insurance policies do not cover driving in Mexico. Insurance can now be purchased from roadside vendors on the US side of the border, prior to entering Mexico.

Further information can be obtained from the Tijuana Tourism Board in Tijuana, at Condominio Paseo I, Paseo de los Heroes 9365, 201, Zona Rio (tel: +011 (526) 684 2854 or 634 0223, in Mexico or (888) 775 2417, in the USA; fax: +011 (526) 684 2108; e-mail: info@seetijuana.com; website: www.seetijuana.com).

Sport

There are many San Diegans who will maintain that the major reason forone to live in Southern California is the accessibility to outdoor recreation. Just about every warm weather sport can be found here, from sailing to soccer, golf to rollerblading. In fact, San Diego’s well-paved beach walks and scenic parkways offer an irresistible opportunity for many cyclists and roller skaters.

San Diego’s name is well known in American football and the San Diego Chargers (tel: (858) 874 4500; website: www.chargers.com) play at the Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road (tel: (619) 641 3131). Nevertheless, the Chargers are not the best team in the NFL, trailing at the bottom end of the AFC West standings in both 2000 and 2001.

Depending on the seating and vendor, Chargers tickets can cost between US$30 and US$2,000. Other city teams are the baseball team, San Diego Padres (website: www.padres.com), the ice hockey team, San Diego Gulls (website: www.sandiegoarena.com/gulls/gulls.htm), and the women’s soccer team, San Diego Spirit (website: www.sandiegospirit.com).

Tickets for all major sporting events are available for purchase from Ticketmaster (tel: (619) 220 8497; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Boating: San Diego is considered one of the best places for day sailing on America’s west coast, because of mild spring and summer winds and good currents. The proximity to Mexican destinations lures sailors southwards but visitors should refrain from this temptation until they have gained some familiarity with the area, currents and weather changes. Autumn and winter winds and rains can rise suddenly and have even been known to catch local boaters off guard. Pacific Beach, Mission Bay, Shelter Island and Coronado Island are four of the better locations to find quality boat rentals. Seaforth Boat Rental, 1641 Quivera Road (tel: (619) 223 1681; website: www.seaforthboatrental.com), has over 150 boats for hire, from sailing vessels to speedboats.

Fitness centres: Frogs Club One (website: www.frogsclubone.com), known affectionately as ‘Frogs’, has centres at Mission Valley, 901 Hotel Circle South (tel: (619) 291 3500) and La Jolla, 7825 Fay Avenue, Suite 160 (tel: (858) 456 2595). This is a full-service fitness centre that is designed to pamper. Facilities include the standard workout amenities, including free weights and fixed gym equipment, as well as a beauty salon, massage service, a boutique and caf. Best of all for visitors to San Diego, Frogs in Mission Valley is available either for free or for a nominal fee (generally US$10 per day) to many hotel guests in the Hotel Circle area. The facilities are open Monday-Thursday 0500-2230, Friday 0500-21000 and Saturday 0700-2000.

San Diego Fitness and Racquet Centre, 3666 Midway Drive (tel: (619) 223 5581; website: www.sandiegofitness.com), boasts a complete exercise facility, with carido programme, circuit training, a spa and massage service. Like Frogs, the centre also has special arrangements with local hotels and is either free of charge or available for US$10 per day to hotel guests. Opening hours are weekdays 0600-2000 and weekends 0800-1800.

Curves for Women has centres in the Hillcrest area, 1220 Cleveland Avenue (tel: (619) 295 1251) and Point Loma area, 3960 West Point Loma Boulevard (tel: (619) 222 8555), and is a fitness centre specially designed from women on the go. It advertises ‘30-minute fitness and weight loss centres’ using its ‘Quick Fit’ exercise programme of 30-second rotational exercise patterns. Curves for Women does not have a daily rate and enrolment fees are generally US$59 to sign up and a further US$29 per month. Once a member, gyms are available free of charge, countrywide. Opening hours are different for each centre – normally open weekdays 0700-1330 and 1630-1930).

Golf: Mission Bay Golf Resort, 2702 North Mission Bay Drive (tel: (858) 490 3370; fax: (858) 490 3377), which is less than a half an hour from Downtown, has an 18-hole, night-lit course with a driving range, bar and restaurant facilities. Golf lessons are also available. Green fees vary according to the number of holes played and time of the week, ranging from US$18 to US$22. Mt Woodson Golf Club, 16422 North Woodson Drive, Ramona (tel: (760) 788 3555; website: www.mtwoodson.com), with breathtaking mountain vistas, has been billed by Golf Digest as a must-play and is located about half an hour north of Downtown, via I-5 and I-8. Green fees range from US$30 on weekdays to US$56 on weekends. Riverwalk Golf Club, 1150 Fashion Valley Road (tel: (619) 296 4653; website: www.americangolf.com), on the edge of Hotel Circle and just minutes from Downtown, is a 27-hole championship course that hosts tournaments. Fees for this course run from US$80 on weekdays to US$100 on weekends and holidays. Vineyard Golf Course, 925 San Pasqual Road, Escondido (tel: (760) 735 9545), is an 18-hole golf course amid California’s wine country. Green fees are US$55 on weekdays and upwards of US$65 on weekends and holidays. All the above golf clubs and courses are open to the public.

Scuba diving: There are a number of diving shops and charters that cater to the diving aficionado, with daily or weekly diving trips to Mexico and surrounding diving spots. Dive Connections, 1500 Quivera Way (tel: (619) 523 9282 or (800) 420 3047; website: www.gottadive.com), offers diving and snorkel trips, equipment hire, private and daily group excursions. Blue Escape Dive & Charter, Inc, 1617 Quivera Road (tel: (619) 223 3483 or (888) 500 3483; website: www.blueescape.com), provides diving tours, lessons and hire of scuba, snorkelling and kayak equipment.

Surfing: San Diego may not have the biggest waves in the Western Hemisphere but its reputation as a surfing Mecca certainly precedes itself. Images of bronze surfers and bikini-clad sunbathers are a well-earned part of the Westcoast image. Locations such as Pacific Beach, Imperial Beach and Coronado Island are favourite locations for testing out the waves – as well as for taking in the rays. Some beach areas are posted with warning signs, because of undercurrents, and newcomers would be wise to respect the advisories. Not all beaches have lifeguards and drownings do occur in posted areas. To learn more about the current, weather and best places to surf, visitors should consult the online Surfline (website: www.surfline.com) and click on ‘SoCal’ for Southern California’s conditions.

Novice surfers can also find classes at local surf shops, such the San Diego Surfing Academy (tel: (800) 447 7873; website: www.surfsdsa.com). The company also hires out equipment and organises charter trips to Mexico.

Tennis: Balboa Tennis Club, 2221 Morely Field Drive (tel: (619) 295 4242; e-mail: tennis@balboatennis.com; website: www.balboatennis.com), a 25-court facility, is located at Balboa Park. Day passes are available for non-members.

Shopping

Shopping
San Diego has several distinctive shopping areas. Among the oldest is Hillcrest, the geographical centre of San Diego. Visitors can find a wide selection of stores, ranging from local grocery stores to funky gift shops, as well as an impressive selection of restaurants, lounges and trendy coffee bars. Babette Schwartz, 421 University Avenue, specialises in quite ‘Californian’ gifts and personal items. Little Italy, Downtown, offers a tasteful selection of shops that are focused around Mediterranean cooking and culture. Typical Californian gifts range from T-shirts (a Southern Californian favourite) to expensive artwork from one of the area’s many art galleries. A bottle of California wine is always a popular choice.

Built to take advantage of Southern California’s sunny weather, Horton Plaza, at Fourth Avenue and F Street, Downtown, is one of San Diego’s more ‘compact’ shopping malls, with a bright, airy interior that is built in multiple levels and designed for easy accessibility. Fashion Valley, 7007 Friars Road, and Mission Valley, 1640 Camino del Rio North, are two of the city’s larger modern malls, featuring top-line department stores as well as unique speciality shops.

San Diego is a book-lover’s paradise, perhaps owing to the fact that it has been home to several world famous authors, including Dr Seuss. Joseph Taber Books, 1033 Seventh Avenue, specialises in rare and fine books. Bountiful Books, 3834 Fifth Avenue, specialises in hard-to-find titles, multicultural and women’s topics. Paper Antiquities, 1552 Fifth Avenue, carries an impressive collection of newspapers and magazines dating from the 1700s to 1976. San Diego Historical Museum, 413 Market Street, has rare books, photos and memorabilia relating to Western American history.

There are a number of farmers’ markets scattered across San Diego County. The most popular is in Chula Vista, which takes place every Thursday, 1500-1900 (summer) and 1500-1800 (winter), and is known from its large street-fair atmosphere and varied products. A complete listings of farmers markets and schedules is available online (website: www.sdfarmbureau.org/pages/farmersmarket.html).

San Diego, like most Californian cities, has a wide range of supermarkets and speciality food stores. Ralphs and Albertsons are only two of the major markets and are located conveniently in most residential districts. Both are generally open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Other shops are open Monday-Friday 1000-2100, Saturday 1000-1900 and Sunday 1100-1800, although hours will vary.

Sales tax stands at 7.75% in San Diego. There are duty-free stores located in San Ysidro, directly south of San Diego, via I-5, at the US-Mexican border. These stores are tremendously popular and offer a wide selection of products for reduced prices. California sales tax is non-refundable.

Culture

Culture
Artists and musicians from San Diego reflect a diverse and colourful heritage, with Downtown probably the best evidence of the city’s diversity. Home to the American blues artist, Jim Croce, San Diego lives up to its reputation as a bastion for striving musicians – with the Gaslamp Quarter and its up-and-coming blues and jazz performers (see Nightlife). Little Italy is also known these days for its artistic contributions and rich cultural heritage. San Diego County’s Chicano (Mexican-American) population has had a strong and valuable influence on San Diego’s art community, mainly in festivals, such as the annual Latino Film Festival, the Cinco de Mayo (Fifth of May) and the Festival of the Bells at Mission San Diego de Alcala.

Tickets for cultural performance and events are available for purchase from Ticketmaster (tel: (619) 220 8497; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Cultural listings are available online at San Diego’s premier performance and events website (www.sandiegoartandsol.com). San Diego Magazine (website: www.sandiego-online.com) is another well-regarded source of information.

Music: The San Diego Symphony, 1245 Seventh Avenue (tel: (619) 235 0804; fax: (619) 235 0005; website: www.sandiegosymphony.com), is known as much for its versatility as for its excellence. Its concerts range from classical symphony pieces to indigenous cultural music and summertime pop concerts at the seaside. Its indoor events are generally held in the historic Copely Symphony Hall, 750 B Street (tel: (619) 235 0804). There is also the Annual Mainly Mozart Festival in June, featuring music by Baroque, classical and Romantic composers (including Mozart), at selected venues in San Diego and Baja California (tel: (619) 239 0100; website: www.mainlymozart.org).

Theatre: The Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Avenue, Coronado (tel: (619) 437 0600; website: www.lambsplayers.org), is one of San Diego’s oldest venues for professional theatre. Its European-style seating and intimate character lends to its success as a popular contemporary theatre. The Tony award-winning Old Globe Theatre, located in Balboa Park, north of the Museum of Man (tel: (619) 239 2255; website: www.theglobetheaters.org), has three stages. Summer productions usually include Shakespeare. The Starlight Theatre company (tel: (619) 544 7827; fax: (619) 544 0496; website: www.starlighttheatre.org), is one of San Diego’s oldest and most respected musical theatre companies, with a classical repertoire. Its year-round venues include the Starlight Bowl, Presidents Way and Park Boulevard, Balboa Park, Spreckels Theatre, 121 Broadway (tel: (619) 235 0494), and Civic Theatre, Third Avenue and B Street (tel: (619) 615 4100).

Dance: The California Ballet, 4819 Ronson Court (tel: (858) 560 5676 or 6741; fax: (858) 560 0072; e-mail: info@califoniaballet.org; website: www.californiaballet.org), has seasonal performances of contemporary and classic ballets, performed at a variety of venues, including the Civic Theatre (see above) and the David and Dorothea Garfield Theatre, Lawrence Family Jewish Community Center, La Jolla (tel: (858) 362-1348 or (858) 362 1365).

Film: Most San Diego malls have cinemas. The Horton Plaza Shoppingtown mall, Downtown, has a United Artist theatre (tel: (619) 234 8602) that shows first-run movies. The Mission Valley Centre, Mission Valley, 1640 Camino del Rio North (tel: (858) 296 2737), has a 20-plex AMC theatre, which is the largest of its kind in the western United States. Arthouse films are shown at Cinema Star Theatre, Chula Vista (20 minutes south of San Diego), and the Hillcrest Cinema, 3965 Fifth Avenue (tel: (619) 299 2100), which is a well-respected arthouse cinema that shows quality films from around the world.

The San Diego Latino Film Festival takes place every March at the Cinema Star Theatre. Showings include productions from the United States as well as Latin America. Most films are in Spanish with English subtitles.

The most famous San Diego film is Top Gun (1986), which starred Tom Cruise. The Kid from Left Field (1979), starring Gary Coleman and Robert Guillaume was a San Diego favourite, about a small boy who guides the San Diego Padres baseball team to the World Series. James Cameron’s epic movie Titanic (1997) was filmed less than an hour from San Diego, near the Mexican resort town of Rosarito. The studio now includes a Titanic Museum of sets, props and relics from the film.

Cultural events: There are festivals and events to celebrate just about every culture in San Diego. The Santa Fe Market brings together artisans and performers from the Navajo, Cherokee, Hopi, Pima, Isleta Pueblo and Santo Domingo Pueblo Indian tribes, along with other cultures, at Old Town’s Bazaar del Mundo, each Spring (April). The Border Voices Poetry Fair, also in April, at San Diego University, links writers and musicians from Latin America and the United States, in an unusual presentation of the written word. San Diego’s Cinco de Mayo (Fifth of May) celebration in Old Town (Bazaar del Mundo) is one of the best on the West Coast. Celebrating San Diego’s Hispanic heritage, it is a blending of dance, theatre, food and history.

The Sony Artwalk (tel: (619) 615 1090; e-mail: info@artwalkinfo.com; website: www.artwalkinfo.com) takes place in April and is an excellent way for visitors to experience some of the city’s unusual history. Centred primarily around the Downtown quarter of Little Italy, the self-guided walking tour takes the public into artists’ studios, through galleries, to musical performances and short plays. One of the Artwalk’s most popular points of interest, is the ‘Refrigerator Art’, where old refrigerators are used as makeshift canvases for student art projects. The refrigerators are then sold to raise money for the local school art programs.

Literary Notes
Home to L Frank Baum, author of Wizard of Oz (1900), and Dr Seuss, San Diego has enjoyed a thriving literary community for many years. Authors who currently call San Diego their home include world-famous novelist Harold Jaffe, playwright Lonnie Burstein Hewitt and poet Terry Hertzler. Jaffe’s work has been translated into German, Spanish, French, Czech and Japanese and has been anthologised in a number of leading American books, including the Pushcart Prize and Best American Stories. Lonnie Burstein Hewitt has co-authored plays and musical productions for Broadway and the children’s TV production Sesame Street. She is known locally for her non-fiction guide of San Diego, Walking San Diego (1989), which she co-wrote with Barbara Coffin Moore. Terry Hertzler is a long-time resident of San Diego and the founder of a locally known publishing house, Caernarvon Press, as well as several San Diego literary organisations. His poetry has been widely published in the United States.

The much-loved Dr Seuss (Theodor Seuss Geisel), author of The Cat in a Hat (1957) and Green Eggs and Ham (1960), resided in San Diego. His book How the Grinch Stole Christmas (1957) was turned into a film starring Jim Carey in 2000. Dr Seuss was born in Massachusetts in 1904 but called San Diego his home for most of his adult life. His residence at 7301 Encelia Drive, Mount Soledad, included a tower with a spectacular 360-degree view of the countryside. Following his death in 1991, his widow had the main residence renovated, although Dr Seuss’s ‘tower’ still remains.

L Frank Baum’s most famous residence, ‘The Ozcot’, may have been in Hollywood, California, but he was a regular visitor to the shores of Coronado Island. Baum and his wife spent many months at the famous Del Coronado Hotel, which is considered to have been his inspiration for the architecture of the Emerald City in the Wizard of Oz. He is also credited with designing the chandeliers in the historic hotel. Born in New York, in 1856, Baum was a prolific poet, novelist and playwright. The house at 1101 Star Park Circle, on Coronado Island, is the only remaining house owned by the author.

The San Diego Writers Cooperative (website: www.sandiegowriters.org) sponsors readings and classes for local writers. Many bookshops host readings from local authors, including D.G. Wills Books, 7461 Girard Avenue, La Jolla, Rendezvous Caffe, 4644 College Avenue, and Claire de Lune, 2906 University Avenue.

Nightlife

Nightlife
Until recently, San Diego’s marinas were considered the best places to find great nightlife. The development of Downtown’s Gaslamp Quarter and the quiet growth of the city’s historic Little Italy neighbourhood have changed that. Gaslamp is popular among locals and visitors as San Diego’s jazz quarter, although it is also considered one of the best places to find live American rock. Shelter Island is one of San Diego’s oldest waterfront dining and lounge areas. Located just west of the centre of town, it is situated on the Point Loma peninsula and is a favourite haunt for locals and boaters. Similarly, Harbor Island, two minutes northwest of Downtown San Diego, has a selection of bars and dining establishments. La Jolla, approximately half an hour north of Downtown, is an upper-class area that is well known for its nightlife accompanied by breathtaking ocean views.

The minimum legal age for drinking in California is 21 years and photo ID should be carried. Alcohol licensing stops at 0200. The average price of a drink while out and about in San Diego is between US$3.50 and US$6, depending on the venue.

Listings and information for nightlife in the city is available online (website: www.sandiegoartandsol.com; http://sandiego.citysearch.com and www.gaslamp.org).

Bars: Top of the Hyatt, Hyatt Regency, 1 Market Place, with a 360-degree view of the San Diego Bay and the environs, is a mandatory stop for visitors. Top O’ the Cove, 1216 Prospect Street, in San Diego’s beautiful La Jolla district, is primarily known for exquisite dining and outstanding seaside views but its outside patio is also a popular setting for a glass of wine or beer. Meanwhile, Downtown, the Trattoria Mare E Monti, 644 Fifth Avenue, has an intimate, full-service bar featuring a wide selection of wines, including some of the best from California.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in California, except in casinos located on Native Indian reservations on the outskirts of major city areas – for example, on the eastern edge of San Diego. The popularity of casinos in Southern California has provided new and stiff competition with Las Vegas, Nevada and Mexican coastal towns, such as Tijuana and Ensenada, which have been major draws for gambling fans, in the past.

Casinos are a fairly recent arrival to Southern California and have become a trendy alternative to betting across the border. The Sycuan Casino, 5469 Casino Way, El Cajon, run by the Sycuan Indian Tribe in El Cajon, has a bingo room, cards, off-track betting and six different restaurants. El Cajon is a 30-minute drive east on I-8. The Barona Casino, 1000 Wildcat Canyon Road, advertises 2000 new slot machines, a variety of card games and a golf course that has been rated by Golfweek Magazine to be the fourth best in California. Dress code at these casinos is casual. The legal gambling age is 21 years and a passport or suitable ID would be required for those lucky enough to look younger than this age limit.

Clubs: Caf Sevilla, 555 Fourth Avenue, is a popular nightclub in the Gaslamp Quarter. The club features Latin and European music on Friday and Saturday, Brazilian music on Sunday and a range of salsa and Spanish rock on alternate days. Largely believed to have the best ambience in Gaslamp Quarter, Caf Sevilla has been visited by notable musicians, such as the Gipsy Kings and Grace Jones. Tapas dishes are served every day. The Bitter End, 770 Fifth Avenue, is as much reputed for its unusual concoction of California martinis as it is for its live music. It is home to the ‘Black martini’ and the Underground Gaslamp Nightclub, with a full stage for live music, a dancefloor and a state-of-the-art lighting and sound system, as well as dancing every night of the week. The Bitter End is one of the only drinking establishments in San Diego that has a dress code, enforced in the upstairs lounge. The Doubletree San Diego’s Club Max in Mission Valley, 7450 Hazard Center Drive, features a combination nightclub with classic 1940s music. Located ten minutes northeast of downtown via I-5 north and I-8 east, the establishment also has an all-you-can-eat buffet.

Comedy: Mystery Caf serves up comedy with a dramatic twist. Located at the Imperial House Restaurant, 505 Kalmia Street, the dinner theatre includes a four-course meal, costing US$43.50 on Friday evening and US47.50 on Saturday. Shirley’s Kitchen, formerly the Tyler Taste of Texas dinner theatre, 7868 El Cajon Boulevard, La Mesa, features interactive dinner theatre. Seating is US$32 per person.

Live music: Undoubtedly one of the most famous dining and lounge establishments, famed for its live jazz, blues and folk, is named after the American blues artist Jim Croce. Croce’s, 802 Fifth Avenue, corner of F Avenue, was opened by his wife, Ingrid, 16 years ago. The venue hosts a wide and changing variety of musicians throughout the year. Moose McGillycuddy’s, 1165 Garnet Avenue, Pacific Beach, is an old favourite of Pacific Beach locals and a classic Southern California lounge. But if you prefer the Gaslamp area, there is now Moose Downtown. Both feature live rock on the weekends and tend to be packed on those nights. Shelter Island used to be a favourite locale for entertainment and dinner. Humphrey’s Backstage Lounge, Shelter Island, 2241 Shelter Island Drive, hosts blues, folk and jazz performances both in its lounge and in its live concert venue outside.

Neimans, 300 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad (website: www.neimans.com), features live music almost every night of the week, ranging from rock to salsa. Its turn-of-the-century Victorian architecture offers a unique and intimate setting. The venue is also well known for its fine dining.

City Statistics

Location: California, San Diego County, Southwestern United States, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 1,277,168 (city); 2,911,468 (county).
Ethnic mix: 54% white, 24% Hispanic, 9% black, 13% Asian and other.
Religion: Majority Christian, although many other religions are represented.
Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 18.3C (65F).
Average July temp: 24.4C (76F).
Annual rainfall: 254mm (10 inches).

Special Events

Sony Artwalk, annual walk focusing on the city’s artistic scene (website: www.artwalkinfo.com), 1200-1800 26-27 April 2003, Downtown quarter of Little Italy.
Santa Fe Market, cultural festival, Apr, Bazaar del Mundo, Old Town
Border Voices Poetry Fair, Apr, San Diego University
Cinco de Mayo (Fifth of May), celebration of the city’s Hispanic heritage, 5 May, Bazaar del Mundo, Old Town
Annual San Diego American Indian Cultural Days, traditional singers and dancers, American Indian food and arts and crafts, May, Park Boulevard, Presidents Way, Balboa Park
Fourth of July celebrations, national Independence Day with fireworks and parades), 4 Jul, throughout San Diego County
Festival of the Bells, annual historic celebration of California’s first mission, Jul, Mission San Diego de Alcala
Annual San Diego Lesbian and Gay Pride Parade and Festival, Jul, Hillcrest and Balboa Park
Annual US Open Sandcastle Competition, parade, competitions, fireworks, Jul, Imperial Beach Pier, Imperial Beach
San Diego Surf Cup, boys and girls soccer tournament, Jul-Aug, Del Mar Polo Fields
Annual World Body Surfing Championships, Aug, Oceanside Pier, Oceansid
Festival Street Scene, early Sep, Gaslamp Quarter, Downtown
Julian Fall Apple Harvest, mid-Sep-mid-Nov, Julian
Julian Banjo and Fiddle Contest and Bluegrass Festival, food, music, contests, jamming and music workshops, late Sep, Frank Lane Park, Julian
Cabrillo Festival, commemorates the 16th-century Spanish explorations of the Californian West Coast, late Sep, Cabrillo National Monument
San Diego Grand Military Encampment, San Diego’s US Armed Forces historical expo of 200 years of military history, food and entertainment, Oct, Balboa Park
Fleet Week San Diego, air show by the Blue Angels, aviation exposition hosted by the US Navy, Marine Corps and Coast Guard, most of Oct, various venues
Annual Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), traditional Mexican festival; demonstrations, food and guest artists, late Oct-early Nov, Old Town
Del Mar Fairgrounds Holiday of Lights, spectacular holiday light displays, Nov-Jan, Del Mar Racetrack
San Diego Thanksgiving Dixieland Jazz Festival, annual music festival, late Nov-early Dec, Mission Valley
La Jolla Christmas Parade and Holiday Festival, Dec, La Jolla
Christmas at the Prado, evening music, food and craft displays and a regional cultural parade, Dec, El Prado
Old Town Holiday in the Park, candlelit tours of historic buildings, Dec, Old Town

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2
33cl bottle of beer: US$1.50
Financial Times newspaper: US$3.50
36-exposure colour film: US$7.50
City-centre bus ticket: US$2
Adult football ticket: US$240-$2000
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From US$18

1 American Dollar (US$1) = 0.52; C$1.25; A$1.28; 0.77
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005