World City Guide

Mini Guide of Reykjavik

City Overview

Reykjavik’s foundation is equally romantic and beguiling as its location, set on the fringe of the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by a lunar volcanic netherworld, with the shadowy hulk of Mount Esja in the background. Legend has it that the world’s most northerly capital was founded by a Viking called Inglfur Arnarson. According to Iceland’s ancient Sagas, he followed the Nordic tradition of letting the gods decide the location of his new home. As he sailed towards the land, he threw two wooden pillars overboard and sent his slaves off to find out where they came ashore. After traversing the fertile south of Iceland, they expressed their disappointment on finding the pillars in the north: ‘For no good did we cross fine districts in order to settle on this remote cape’. Arnarson named the place Reykjavik (‘Smokey Bay’) after the steam rising from the hot springs.

Today, these numerous geothermal springs, running beneath the city, provide almost all the heating and water in the city. The only by-product of this system is a faint odour of hydrogen sulphide, especially evident when showering. But the low level of fuel emissions gives the city clean air and crystal clear skies – when it is not raining. The lack of pollution is also due to the comparatively small size of the capital. The city consisted of only a handful of farmhouses until the middle of the 18th century when a small trading community began to grow. It was granted a municipal charter and gradually developed as an urban centre. By the end of World War II, Iceland gained full autonomy from Denmark and Reykjavik became Iceland’s capital city. Although it still feels like a provincial town, with its low buildings and brightly painted houses, Greater Reykjavik (including the Old Town, harbour and six surrounding municipalities) is home to three out of five Icelanders and the diminutive city dominates Iceland politically, socially, economically and culturally.

Since Reagan and Gorbachev played out the end game of the Cold War in Reykjavik in 1986, the city has emerged as an unlikely tourist destination. Countless travel articles are published focusing on its nefarious nightlife and thousands of tourists a year fly to the city to seek out the legendary bars and clubs. Considering that beer prohibition only ended in 1989, this is particularly impressive but the locals seem to have made up for lost time and the scene in the city centre at weekends is one of hedonistic mayhem. The city’s nightlife is perhaps fuelled by the fact that most Icelanders let go of their weekday Nordic calm and instead reveal the fiery Celtic side of the their heritage (the Vikings kidnapped many Scots and Irish on their way over), especially evident in their friendliness and openness to foreign visitors.

During the day, Reykjavik is a far more sedate place with trim houses, rubbish-free streets and an easygoing pace of life. There are bountiful cultural attractions, countless cafs, six geothermal swimming baths and a myriad of day trip opportunities into the stunning hinterland. One of the most charming things about Reykjavik is that everything visitors would want to see is handily located within walking distance. Cultural festivals are also currently multiplying and maturing, as Iceland begins to establish its cultural identity.

Situated in the country’s southwest corner, on Faxafli Bay, the city has a very wet climate and with winds and rain blowing in from the sea. However, the Gulf Air Stream prevents the city from becoming as cold as its northerly location might suggest. Still, winters are long and bleak, with just four hours of daylight on some days, although the chance to view the spectacular Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights makes up for this. Summer, by contrast, brings the famed midnight sun with the city’s inhabitants at their most colourful and the streets taking on a much lighter atmosphere at night.

Getting There By Air

Keflavik International Airport (KEF)
Tel: 425 0600. Fax: 425 0610.
Website: www.keflavikairport.com

International flights depart from the four runways of Keflavik International Airport, 40km (34 miles) from Reykjavik, on the Reykjanes Peninsula. The airport has just undergone a major renovation programme.

Major airlines: Icelandair (tel: 505 0300; fax: 505 0350; website: www.icelandair.net) is the national carrier and the only provider of scheduled flights from Iceland to the following cities: Amsterdam, Baltimore, Boston, Frankfurt, Glasgow, Minneapolis, New York, Orlando, Oslo, Philadelphia, Paris and Stockholm. Iceland Express flies to Reykjavik from London Standsted and Copenhagen twice daily (tel: 550 0650; www.icelandexpress.com).

Iceland’s domestic airline, Air Iceland (tel: 570 3030; fax: 570 3001; website: www.airiceland.is), operates from Reykjavik City Airport, which is connected to the city centre by bus 5. Air Iceland operates all domestic flights, as well as flights to the Faroe Islands and Greenland.

Approximate flight times to Reykjavik: From London is 3 hours; from New York is 5 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 30 minutes (via New York); from Toronto is 7 hours 30 minutes (via New York); and from Sydney is 32 hours (via Hong Kong and London).

Airport facilities: These include a 24-hour bureau de change, ATMs, travel agent, tourist information, duty-free and other shops, cafs, restaurants and bars. Car hire companies Budget, Europcar and RVS Avis all have offices in the arrival hall.

Business facilities: The Saga Executive Lounge, operated by Icelandair, provides telephone, fax, e-mail and Internet connections, as well as shower facilities.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the cost of the ticket.

Transport to the city: From Keflavik International Airport to the city, a taxi costs approximately IKr5000 (journey time – 30 minutes). Reykjavik Excursions operate The Flybus (tel: 562 1011; website: www.re.is), which runs in connection with all incoming and outgoing flights and travels from Keflavik to the Hotel Loftleidir, in Reykjavik (journey time – 45 minutes). The cost is IKr1100 per person.

Getting There By Water

Gamla Hfnin (Old Harbour) and Sundahfn are the two main harbours. They are known collectively as the Reykjavik Harbour and governed by the Port of Reykjavik. There are no passenger facilities available, as the harbour caters exclusively for cargo ships. The Port of Seydisfjordur (www.seydisfjordur.com) in eastern Iceland, however, has some passenger services.

Ferry services: Direct sea journeys to Reykjavik can be made with the cargo shipping company Eimskip (tel: 525 7000; fax: 525 7009; website: www.eimskip.is). Ships sail weekly between the harbour in Reykjavik and Eskifjordur (Iceland), Torshavn (Faroe Islands), Rotterdam and Hamburg (Germany), Aarhus (Denmark), Gothenburg (Sweden) and Fredrikstad (Norway). The Smyril Line (tel: 570 8600; website: www.smyril-line.fo) operates a weekly car and passenger ferry service during the summer between Seydisfjordur in eastern Iceland and Torshavn (Faroe Islands), Bergen (Norway), Hanstholm (Denmark) and Lerwick (Shetland Islands).

Transport to the city: Reykjavik Harbour is situated in northeast Reykjavik, within walking distance of the city centre. Seydisfjordur is about a 15-hour bus ride from Reykjavik (ferry timetables almost certainly make an overnight stay in Seydisfjordur necessary).

Getting There By Road

There is only one main motorway, Highway One, in Iceland – which was only completed in 1984 and traces the country’s coastline. Traffic drives on the right in Iceland. The use of headlights at all times of the day and night and fastening seatbelts – both in the front and the back seat – are obligatory legal requirements. Streets in towns are generally asphalt and have excellent surfaces. However, outside towns, the roads are often gravelled, so care must be taken. Drink-driving laws are strict and are also strictly enforced – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. The speed limit is 50kph (31mph) in urban areas, while outside urban areas it is 80kph (50mph) on unpaved roads and 90kph (56mph) on paved roads.

Drivers must carry the vehicle’s registration, proof of international insurance (ie a Green Card), plus a valid driving licence (foreign licences are valid for visitors to Iceland). The legal driving age in Iceland is 18 years.

Information on road conditions is available from the Public Roads Administration (tel: 563 1400; website: www.vegagerdin.is). Any foreign national involved in a traffic accident in Reykjavik must contact the police without delay (tel: 112 in an emergency or 569 9000). The Icelandic Automobile Association (FB) can be contacted (tel: 562 9999; fax: 552 9071; website: www.fib.is) for information.

Emergency breakdown service:
FB 511 2112

Routes to the city: A 1351km (840-mile) ring road (called Highway One) traces Iceland’s entire coastline (the interior is largely inhospitable). The main routes to the city are along this road from the east or the west. Akureyri and Isafjrdur are to the west, while Hfn is to the east.

Driving times to Reykjavik: From Akureyri – 6 hours; Hfn – 9 hours; Isafjrdur – 10 hours.

Coach services: The central bus station is located at Vatnsmrarvegi 10, near Reykjavik City Airport. It is run by BS Travel (tel: 591 1000; fax: 591 1050; e-mail: info@dice.is; website: www.bsi.is), which is a consortium of the bus lines offering an extensive bus service to most parts of the country, to destinations such as Akureyr, Hfn, Isafjrdur and Egilsstadir, as well as a large number of organised bus tours. Reservations are not usually necessary and tickets can be purchased at the bus station or from the driver.

Getting There By Rail

There is no rail system in Iceland.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The main provider of bus services is the Reykjavik Bus Service – SVR, Borgartun 35 (tel: 540 2700; website: www.bus.is). The two main bus stations in Reykjavik are located at Hlemmur and Laekjartorg. Buses on the 35 routes operate 0700-2400 Monday to Saturday and 1000-2400 Sunday. On weekdays, buses run every 20 minutes; while in the evening (after 1900) and on weekends buses run every 30 minutes. At the weekend, night buses run 0230-0400. The fare is IKr220 and is paid to the driver (the driver is not permitted to give change). If transferring bus routes, the bus driver can provide a skiptimidi (a transfer ticket), which is valid for 45-60 minutes from the time of issue, otherwise tickets are not usually issued.

Passes of ten fares are available and can be purchased at the bus terminals. The Reykjavik Card (see Tourist Information in Sightseeing) offers unlimited transport on buses in Reykjavik.

Taxis
All taxis in Reykjavik are metered and charge standard fares. Tipping is not expected. Taxis can be hailed in the street or telephoned – operators include Borgarbll (tel: 552 2440), BSR (tel: 561 0000), BSH (555 0888) and Hryfill (tel: 588 5522). Taxis are expensive and taking a taxi on a short trip around town costs from IKr1000. Most taxi stations also offer day tours to the main sights around the city.

Limousines
Limousine operators include Limousine Service (tel/fax: 555 3225). Private transfer is also available from Private Tours (tel: 862 9152; website: www.privatetours.is).

Driving in the City
With a small city centre and a very efficient bus service, it is not really necessary to use a car to get around Reykjavik. Furthermore, the cost of car hire is enough to put most people off. Those that do drive, however, will find it a pleasurable experience. Traffic is not heavy, there is little congestion (the heaviest build-up of traffic is around 2300 in the centre of the city, when the locals head out for a night on the town) and Icelandic drivers are considerate towards other road users.

Parking in the city is easy, with metered spaces costing IKr50-150 per hour. Alternatively, there are six multi-storey car parks and plenty of larger parking lots costing around IKr40-100 per hour. These are Vitatorg, Hverfisgata, Kolaportid, Kalkofnsvegur, Bergstadir, Bergstadastraeti, Tradarkot, Hverfisgata, City Hall Basement, Tjarnargata, and Vesturgata 7, Vesturgata. Other parking lots are located at Hlemmur, Tryggvagata, Tjarargata and near the harbour.

Car Hire
Hiring a car in Reykjavik is prohibitively expensive. In addition to the hire price, VAT is charged at 24.5% and there are compulsory charges for insurance and petrol. Most car hire companies have a minimum age limit of 23 years and a foreign driver’s licence is accepted.

Car hire companies include Avis, Knarrarvogi 2 (tel: 591 4000; fax: 591 4040; website: www.avis.is), Budget, Malarhfdi 2 (tel: 567 8300; fax: 567 8302; website: www.budget.is) and Herz, Flugrallarvegur (tel: 505 0600; fax: 505 0650; website: www.hertz.is).

Bicycle Hire
Reykjavik’s flat topography makes cycling one of the best ways of getting around. The Icelandic Mountain Bike Club (tel: 562 0099; website: www.mmedia.is/~ifhk/tourist.htm), based in Reykjavik, offers advice on cycling around the country, which is a tough and gruelling experience.
Bikes can be hired from Borgarhjol Bike Rental, Hverfisgata 50 (tel: 551 5653) and cost 1700IKr per day.

Business

Business Etiquette
When meeting a business counterpart in Iceland, a handshake is the normal form of greeting. Businesspeople are expected to dress smartly, although casual wear is widely accepted for social functions. Although an Icelander’s second language is generally Danish, a very high proportion of the population is fluent in English. Visits between May and September should be planned, as many businesspeople go on trips abroad at this time. July is the holiday month and offices often close down for a three-week annual break. Standard office hours are 0900-1700 Monday to Friday (although many firms alter this to 0800-1600 during the summer).

Characteristically, Icelanders can be quite reserved (except on Friday and Saturday nights) but very direct. Visitors are often invited into homes (especially if on business) and bringing a gift for the host is the norm (a bottle of foreign wine is always welcomed). Instead of surnames, the majority of Icelanders use the system of patronymics. Instead of a surname the first name of the father is used plus son (son) or daughter (dttir). Because of this, the telephone directory is listed by first name.

Business Profile
Iceland is in the unusual position of having its economy dominated by one industry: fish. A quick walk around Reykjavik’s harbour area is enough to see how dependent the city is on the sea and fishing as its main source of income, with the annual catch for the whole country averaging about 1.6 million tonnes. The importance of fish to the Icelandic economy was demonstrated during the bitter Cod Wars in the 1970s and 1980s when Iceland came to blows with the British navy. The majority of the fish caught in the waters around Reykjavik heads overseas for export, in the form of shellfish, canned fish, shellfish, frozen fish, smoked fish, cod-liver oil and other fish by-products. However, both Iceland and Reykjavik’s economy is trying to diversify and the share of marine products in total exports has fallen from around 90% in the early 1960s to around 70% today.

Tourism is Reykjavik’s most important source of foreign revenue after fishing and it has been targeted by the government for growth. Tourism, however, faced something of a crisis in 2002, as Go, the British budget airline, stopped its cheap flights from London to Reykjavik. The war in Iraq was a tougth time globally for the industry, and Iceland suffer from it too. The country, however, with its mix of beautiful, rugged scenery and the vast choice of activities it offers, continues to attract travellers from all over the world.

Other industries include the sale of minerals, such as aluminium, ferro-silicon, cement and nitrates. Production is increasingly moving to high-technology, demonstrated by the fast-growing number of computer software and biotechnology companies, such as deCODE genetics, a company set up by ex-Harvard professor Kri Stefnsson in1996.

Reykjavik has traditionally been very attractive to foreign investors because of its highly educated work force, low energy costs and low unemployment rate, which fell from 5% in 1995 to just 3.1% in 2003 (the national average for the same year was 3.3%). Iceland boasts one of the highest living standards in the world, with per capita income of 36,320 US Dollars (2002). The Trade Council of Iceland, Borgartun 35 (tel: 511 4000; fax: 511 4040; website: www.icetrade.is), can advise on inward investment and doing business in Iceland.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Reykjavik is a very easy city to negotiate on foot so the best initial advice is to head for the Tourist Information Centre and stock up on some maps and recommended walking routes. Reykjavik has two landmarks that offer views over the city to aid orientation: the Perlan (on skjuhld Hill) and the 75m-high (230ft) Hallgrmskirkja church (in the centre of town). A visit to the top of either of these is the best way for visitors to become acquainted with the city’s layout.

The very heart of Reykjavik lies between the Atlantic Ocean and the pleasant Tjrnin lake to the north. In-between lies the centre of the city with flat, wide streets housing bars, cafs, hotels, museums and art galleries. The modern Icelandic National Gallery lies right on the edge of the lake, while the National Museum lies just to the south. Just north of Tjrnin is Austurvollur, an attractive square popular with sunworshippers in the warmer months and also home to the Alping, the Icelandic parliament. Also in the city centre are the three branches of the Reykjavik Art Museum: the Harbour House, smundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum and Kjarvalsstadethir. Heading east and uphill on Laugavegur, the city’s main thoroughfare, are many of the city’s best shops, cafs, restaurants and bars. Outside the city centre but easily accessible by bus are the rbaer Open-Air Folk Museum and the Sigurjon Olafsson Museum. Dotted around the city are six geothermal swimming baths that come complete with hot pots, which make the perfect venue to relax in after a hard day’s sightseeing at any time of year.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre
Adalstraeti 2
Tel: 562 3045. Fax: 562 3057.
E-mail: info@visitreykjavik.is or tourinfo@tourinfo.is
Website: www.tourist.reykjavik.is
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1900 (summer); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1400 (winter).

Information is also available from the City Hall Information Service, City Hall, Vonarstraeti. Reykjavik Complete (tel: 590 1500; fax: 590 1501; website: same as above), which runs the Tourist Information Centre, can also provide information

Passes
Available for one (IKr1200), two (IKr1700), or three (IKr2200) days, the Reykjavik Card offers unlimited transport on city buses, as well as admission to six geothermal swimming pools and most museums and galleries. It can be purchased from the Tourist Information Centre, the City Hall, the BS central bus station, hotels, guesthouses, museums and pools.

Key Attractions

Hallgrmskirkja (Church of Hallgrmur)
Reykjavik’s highest and most imposing structure, Hallgrmskirkja, is visible from over 20km (12 miles) away. Begun in the late 1940s and completed in 1986, with its stark, light-filled interior and architectural resemblance to basaltic lava, it elicits mixed reactions. Most people visit it for the chance to view the city from the tower: the panorama is superb.

Sklavrduholt
Tel: 510 1000. Fax: 510 1010.
Website: www.hallgrimskirkja.is (Icelandic only)
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 110, 111, 112 or 115.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000 (2200 on Thursday in summer).
Admission: Free (church); IKr350, concessions available (tower).

Perlan (Pearl)
A walk through landscaped gardens (including an artificial geyser) leads to the top of skjuhld Hill and Reykjavik’s architectural masterpiece – the Pearl. This magnificent glass structure, which houses a revolving restaurant perched atop hot water tanks, is an engineering feat. The fourth level has an outside viewing deck offering views of the city, as it sprawls out below. One the ground floor is the Saga Museum, a vibrant multi-dimensional display depicting key moments in Icelandic history, and giving a compelling insight into how Icelanders lived from the settlement of the island at the end of the 9th century through to the Reformation period. The dioramas use eerily realistic silicone rubber figures, whose features were borrowed from Reykjavik residents, so don't be surprised if you recognise a familiar face on the streets of the capital after your visit to the museum!

skjuhld Hill
Tel: 562 0203 or 562 0200 (restaurant). Fax: 562 0207 (restaurant).
Website: www.perlan.is
Transport: Bus 7 from Laekjartorg.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200 (restaurant until 2300).
Admission: Free.

Saga Museum
Tel: 511 1517 or 694 3096 or 897 2410.
E-mail: agusta@backman.is
Website: www.sagamuseum.is
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission: IKr800; concessions available.

Listasafn slands (National Gallery of Iceland)
Iceland’s National Gallery houses a permanent collection of paintings and sculpture by Icelandic and international artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. It also stages temporary exhibitions of Icelandic art. Housed in a modernist building that was originally built for ice storage, it comprises four exhibition rooms, a caf, lecture hall, art library and bookshop.

Frkirkjuvegur 7
Tel: 515 9600. Fax: 562 1312.
E-mail: list@natgall.is
Website: www.listasafn.is
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 110, 111, 112 or 115.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700 (library shorter hours).
Admission: IKr400; free Wed.; concessions available.

Listasafn Reykjavikur (Reykjavik Art Museum)
Known collectively as the Reykjavik Art Museum and housed in three locations around the city (Harbour House (Hafnarhsid), smundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum and the Kjarval Collection) the museum offers up a wealth of Icelandic culture. The Harbour House lays claim to the Err Collection, the Architectural Museum and the Reykjavik Art Collection. Located near the harbour, the Harbour House also boasts six exhibition halls, a multi-purpose space, an outdoor courtyard, bookshop and caf. It houses changing exhibitions of work by modern Icelandic and international artists in a variety of media. Dedicated to the sculptures and drawings of smundur Sveinsson, the smundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum collection is housed in the artist’s former home and studio. The Kjarvalsstadethir gallery houses works by leading Icelandic and international artists of the 20th century. The gallery has a shop and a cafeteria overlooking the Miklatn Park and the Perlan.

Website: www.listasafnreykjavikur.is
Admission: IKr500 (daily ticket to all three museums); free Mon. Concessions available.

Harbour House
Tryggvagtu 17
Tel: 590 1200. Fax: 590 1201.
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 110, 111, 112, 115, 140 or 150 stop by Laekjarbor (a 5-minute walk from the museum).
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.

smundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum
Sigtn
Tel: 553 2155.
Transport: Bus 2 and 5.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (May-Sep); daily 1300-1600 (Oct-Apr).

Kjarvalsstadethir
Flkagata
Tel: 552 6131.
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 15, 140 and 150 stop by Hlemmur (a 5-minute walk from the museum).
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.

Thjdminjasafn slands (National Museum)
Founded in 1863, the National Museum, which has just reopened its doors, has a huge range of relics and tools spanning Reykjavik’s 11 centuries of history. It houses everything from medieval altar cloths through to its star attraction – a 12th-century door depicting a Norse battle scene. The museum covers all aspects of Icelandic life, from the time of the settlements to the present day. Featured at the museum are archaeological finds buried in the eruption at Mount Hekla in 1106, the first bible printed in Icelandic, a history of Icelandic witchcraft, and items such as the census of 1703, with detailed accounts of not just people but livestock across Iceland.

Sudurgata 41
Tel: 530 2200. Fax: 530 2201.
Website: www.natmus.is
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 14, 110 or 112.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (summer), 1100-1700 (winter). Closed Mondays
Admission: 600IKr, concessions available, free Wed.

rbjarsafn (rbr Open-Air Folk Museum)
rbjarsafn is Reykjavk's folk museum, and the largest open-air museum in Iceland. It comprises about 30 buildings, most of them brought to the museum site from downtown Reykjavk. They date from the period 1820 -1920. In the houses, reconstructions of homes and workshops and special exhibitions may be seen. Events are scheduled every Sunday, with live accordion music. Craftspeople demonstrate traditional tasks almost every day in the museum. Milking takes place at 1630 every day and is always a popular event with children. There are also children's horse rides on Saturdays.

rbjarsafn v/Kistuhyl
Tel: 577 1111.
E-mail: abs@abs.rvk.is
Website: www.arbaejarsafn.is
Transport: Bus 110 and 4 from Lkjartorg and bus 10 from Hlemmur.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Mon 1100-1600, Sat and Sun 1000-1800 (June, July and Aug). Outside the summer season, guided tours of the museum are scheduled on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 13:00. Guided tours for groups are by arrangement.
Admission: IKr500; concessions available.

Heiti Potturinn (Hot Pots)
Geothermal swimming pools and hot pots play a major part in Icelandic life as swimming lessons are mandatory and students cannot graduate without passing a swimming test. The hottest pools have controlled temperatures of up to 44C (108F) and are said to have certain medical benefits. As the pools are not heavily chlorinated, it is compulsory to take a nude shower and wash thoroughly before entering. The largest is Laugardalslaug, which has a 50m (150ft) pool, curved waterslide, five hot pots of differing temperatures and a steam bath. (For others, see Sport section). Many locals pop in between 0800 and 0900 to relax before work and catch up on the gossip, making it a good time for curious visitors to join in.

Laugardalur, Sundlaugavegur
Tel: 553 4039. Fax: 581 1555.
Transport: Bus 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 12 or 15.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0650-2200, Sat and Sun 0800-2000.
Admission: IKr230.

Further Distractions

Hafnarfjrdur (Harbour-fjord)
Hafnarfjrdur has long been know as the ‘Town in the Lava’ – due to its location right on top of the Burfell lava formation, which dates back to an eruption 7000 years ago. Nestled in the arc of a natural harbour, it has become a suburb of Reykjavik. In previous centuries, it gained status as a trading centre and, today, its reputation is as a centre for culture. Highlights include a sculpture garden on Vidistadir, a lighthouse and an archaeological site from pre-Lutheran times. It is also home to the Icelandic Maritime Museum, the Museum of Local History and the Museum of Postal and Telecommunications. The town also has two geothermally heated pools and the Keilier Golf Club.

Hafnarfjrdur Tourist Information Office
Vesturgata 8, Hafnarfjrdur
Tel: 565 0661. Fax: 565 2914.
E-mail: tourist-info@hafnarfjordur.is or hafnarfjordur@lava.is
Website: www.hafnarfjordur.is/tourist-info
Transport: Bus 140.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat -Sun 1000-1600 (summer); Mon-Fri only 1300-1600 (winter).

Sigurjon Olafsson Museum
The idiosyncratic Sigurjon Olafsson Museum is devoted to the life’s work of one artist, Sigurjon Olafsson (1908-1982), who was born and lived in Iceland. The sleek wooden floors and starched white walls are the perfect setting for his avant-garde work. Olafsson used a collage of wood, metal, plaster, stone and concrete in his work and his striking forms combined abstract styles with inspiration from the Icelandic Sagas. The museum is not one that many tourists go to or even know about but is much beloved of the locals and well worth a visit. During summer there are concerts in the museum on Tuesday evenings and there is also a caf with lovely views over the ocean.

Laugarnestangi 70
Tel: 553 2906. Fax: 581 4553.
Website: www.lso.is
Transport: Bus 4 or 5.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1400-1700 (summer); Sat and Sun only 1400-1700 (winter). Closed Dec and Jan.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Tourist Information Centre, Adalstraeti 2 (tel: 562 3045; website: www.tourist.reykjavik.is) in Reykjavik can supply mini guides, including maps and routes, for various self-guided walks around the city. Each walk is signposted and lasts around two hours.

For visitors wishing to venture further afield, Ferdaflag Islands, Mrkin 6 (tel: 568 2533; website: www.fi.is), the Iceland Touring Association, offers a selection of day walking tours during the summer. They leave by bus from the central bus station (BS), Vatnsmrarvegi 10.

Bus Tours
A variety of excursions are available, ranging from half-day tours of the city to several days of glacier exploring. Allrahanda Iceland Excursions (tel: 540 1313; website: www.icelandexcursions.is), Reykjavik Excursions (tel: 580 5400 or 562 1011; website: www.re.is), and Destination Iceland (tel: 591 1020; website: www.dice.is) run tours around the city and its environs, as well as to places further afield. Most bus tours leave from the BS central bus station, Vatnsmrarvegi 10, or, by arrangement, from hotels. In fact, BSI Travel, part of Destination Iceland (tel: 591 1020; website: www.bsi.is) also arranges city bus tours and whale-watching tours.

Private Tours
If you wish to avoid the crowds and would like to discover Reykjavik and its surroundings at your own pace, or if you have a particular interest and would like a tailor-made tour, contact Lara or Magnus at Private Tours (tel: 898 5142 or 862 9152; website: www.privatetours.is). Two friendly, qualified guides who offer a professional and attentive service combining private taxi with their experience and knowledge of the area (not to mention a very contagious passion for their country!), they really will go the extra mile to ensure your experience is a 100% satisfying one.

4x4 Tours
A number of operators offer 4x4 day tours around Reykjavik, including trips to Mt Hekla and Landmannalaugar. Iceland Rovers (tel: 567 1720 or 899 7881; website: www.icelandrovers.is) have comfortable, well equipped vehicles and knowledgeable guides. Destination Iceland (tel: 591 1020; website: www.dice.is) have a super truck tour combining the Golden Circle with a snow-scooter ride on Langjokull Glacier... an unforgettable experience!

Whale-watching
Whale-watching tours are offered from April to October by Elding (tel: 555 3565; website: www.elding.is), with three daily departures at 0900, 1300 and 1700 from June to August. The Whale Watching Centre (tel: 533 2660; website: www.hafsulan.is) has similar times and prices.

Horse Tours
The Icelandic horse is a strong but gentle animal that has adapted perfectly to the terrain. Consequently, horseriding is a popular way of visiting the sights outside the city and is suitable even for people with no riding experience. shestar, shestar Riding Centre, Srlaskei 26, Hafnarfjrur (tel: 555 7000; website: www.ishestar.com), offers a variety of tours, ranging from the two-hour lava tour to an eight-day tour of the Golden Circle.

Aerial Sightseeing
For sightseeing with a difference, and if your budget allows, jump on a plane and see Iceland from above with Eagle Air (tel: 562 4200; website: www.eagleair.is). On a clear, sunny day, the views are truly breathtaking and the experience an unforgettable one. Tours to various areas, including flights over Reykjavik, Mt Hekla, the Westmann Islands, the Golden Circle and even day trips to Greenland, are available.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Blue Lagoon: Located in the lunar-like landscape of a lava field, the Blue Lagoon was accidentally created by the run-off water from the Svartsengi power station. The reputed health benefits (particularly for skin ailments) of its mineral-rich, geothermal seawater have made it one of the most visited locations in Iceland. The restaurant at the Blue Lagoon was voted one of the top 50 in the world in 2002 by Restaurant Magazine. Massages are also now on offer at the Blue Lagoon and spa beauty products, including mud from the lake, are also available. The Blue Lagoon (tel: 420 8800; website: www.bluelagoon.is) is situated on the Reykjanes peninsula, about 50km (30 miles) southwest of the city. Bus 5 leaves Reykjavik’s central bus station (BS) three times a day (journey time – 40 minutes). There are also half-day excursions available (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City). The spa is open daily 0900-2100 in the summer (Mid May-August), and 1000-2000 in winter (Last orders at the restaurant should be placed before 2100 in summer, and 2030 in winter).

For a Whole Day

Golden Circle: The waterfall of Gulfoss, together with the famous geothermal area at Geysir and the Kerid crater, form the main attractions of a round tour that has become known as the ‘Golden Circle’. Considered to be Iceland’s most beautiful waterfall, Gulfoss (‘golden falls’) is a two-tier waterfall in a huge gorge carved out by the mighty glacial River Hvt. The spouting Geysir (the original that gave its name to the world’s spouting geysers) ceased to erupt earlier this century but fortunately its faithful stand-in (the nearby Strokker) spouts and sprays approximately every five minutes. The site also includes hot springs that are coloured by mineral deposits, steaming vents and warm streams.

A host of operators offer day trips by coach or 4x4 vehicles. You can also add a snow scooter ride, white water rafting or horse riding to the experience with Destination Iceland (tel: 591 1020; website: www.dice.is). For those short of time the Golden Circle can be combined with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, although the combined tour makes for a very long day. It is possible to get to all these destinations by public bus, however, no one bus covers the whole Golden Circle and buses are infrequent so it would not be possible to do the whole round tour in one day. A tour or private transport is much more advisable.

Sport

Icelanders have a passion for swimming pools and hot pots. Reykjavik owes its reputation as a spa city to the many pools within easy reach of the city. The most popular spectator sport is football and the country’s growing success in the game is demonstrated by the increasing number of Icelandic players in the English Premiership and in other European leagues. The city’s main football teams are Fylkier Reykjavik and Knattspyrnufelag Reykjavikur (KR Reykjavik; website: www.kr.is). Both clubs are in Iceland’s premier league. While their European success has been limited, the national team is growing in strength and is now ranked in 65th place out of 205 nations in the FIFA-ranking list. (The Iceland women's team is currently in 17th place out of 115 nations.) International matches can be viewed at the 7000-capacity Laugardalur Sports Centre, Laugardalur (tel: 568 5533). The most popular event in Reykjavik’s sporting calendar, however, is the marathon, which is held every August. Tickets to sporting events in Reykjavik are available direct from the venues.

Fitness centres: The private fitness centres in Reykjavik have a membership fee and ask for a minimum membership period of a year. Many of the swimming pools have gyms that are open to the public, such as Vesturbaejarlaug, Hofsvallagata (tel: 551 5004), which also has a steam bath. The main sports centre is Laugardalur Sports Centre, Laugardalur (tel: 533 0000), includes a gym.

Golf: The Reykjavik Golf Club operates two 18-hole courses: Grafarholt (tel: 587 2211; fax: 587 2212) and Korplfsstadir (tel: 586 2211 or 2213; fax: 586 2212). Green fees start at IKr2000. Both courses are located at Grafarholt (bus 8, 14, 15 or 115) in a natural landscape with rolling hills and rocky terrain.

Horseriding: The term is ‘horse rental’ and hiring a horse costs from IKr4500 for half a day (see Tours of the City).

Swimming pools: There are seven geothermal baths in Reykjavik, including Vesturbaerjal, Hofsvallagata (tel: 551 5004) and Laugardalslaug (tel: 553 4039). For more information visit www.spacity.is. Most are open-air because the water temperature is at a comfortable 27C (80.6F) all year round. Entrance to hot pools, with temperatures ranging from 37C-42C, are also included in the admission prices.

Tennis: Tennis courts can be found at TBR-Hall (tel. 581 2266).

Wintersports: The Skating Hall, Laugardalur (tel: 588 9705; website: www.skautahollin.is), is open from September to May. Whenever the Tjrnin pond freezes over, the snow is routinely cleared away to allow for skating. Skate hire is available here. The skiing areas of Blafjoll, Skalafell and Hengill are a half-an-hour drive from Reykjavik and are normally open from January to the beginning of May, depending on snow conditions. Scheduled buses leave from the BS Coach Terminal (tel: 552 2300). Information on ski conditions can be obtained by telephone (tel: 570 7711).

Shopping

Reykjavik’s primary shopping district centres on its main artery, Laugavegur, in the downtown area. A selection of boutiques, designer labels, arts and crafts galleries and jewellery design studios can be found here. Over the past few years, Sklavdustgur (the street leading from Laugavegur to the Hallgrmskirkj church) has been transforming into one of the most chic shopping streets in the city. As would be expected in a country that experiences extreme weather conditions, several shops can be found selling high-quality outdoor wear and equipment, such as Sktabdin, Snorrabraut 60, which stocks a range of well-known labels, including the Icelandic trademark Cintamani (website: www.cintamani.is).

The Kringlan shopping mall (in the part of the downtown area know as the ‘new city centre’) is a hub of social activity. Among its 150 shops is slandia, a one-stop outlet for Icelandic souvenirs. Similar souvenir shops are located on Laekjargata, Bankastraeti, and the area between Tjrnin and the harbour. Fur clothes are a particular Icelandic speciality and these can be found at the upmarket Eggert, Sklavrdustgur 38. The famous lopapeysa (or Icelandic jumper) can be bought in many of the tourist shops or from The Handknitting Association of Iceland, Sklavrdustgur 19, although buying one is the mark of a tourist – they are seldom worn by Icelanders. The flea market at Laugardalur 24 is open Saturday 1000-1700 and Sunday 1100-1700 and sells all manner of typical flea market paraphernalia.

Shopping hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1800 and Saturday from 1000 to between 1400 and 1700 (depending on the shop). The Kringlan shopping centre is open Monday to Thursday 1000-1830, Friday 1000-1900, Saturday 1000-1600 and Sunday 1300-1700. Some shops stay closed on Saturdays during the summer. Many supermarkets remain open until 2300, seven days a week.

VAT for most goods in Iceland is 24.5%, except for books, which are taxed at 14%. A VAT refund will allow 15% of the retail price of goods to be reclaimed. To qualify, a minimum purchase of IKr4000 (including VAT) must be made in a store displaying the Global Refund Tax sign (website: www.globalrefund.com) and a refund cheque obtained at point of purchase. The refund can be claimed back on departure. For refunds of over IKr5000, the goods must also be shown.

Culture

Reykjavik received intense media coverage as a result of being one of the European Cities of Culture for the year 2000, and it certainly didn’t disappoint those visitors who wanted a new experience off from the beaten track. With so many months of darkness and bleak weather to fill, far from being limited or monotonous, the city’s cultural life surprises many visitors with its sheer diversity and vibrancy.

Tickets to some cultural events, such as the Arts Festival or the Viking Festival, can be purchased from the Tourist Information Centre, Adalstraeti 2 (tel: 562 3045; fax: 562 3057; e-mail: info@visitreykjavik.is or tourinfo@tourinfo.is). All other tickets are available from the venue box offices.

Two excellent free guides to what’s going on in the city are Reykjavik this month and What’s On In Reykjavik, both available at the Tourist Information Centre and leading hotels. For more information on life in Reykjavik, check out the excellent (and free) Grapevine paper.

Music: In winter, the Iceland Symphony Orchestra (tel: 545 2500; fax: 562 4475; e-mail: sinfonia@sinfonia.is; website: www.sinfonia.is) usually performs every Thursday (sometimes on Fridays and Saturdays too) at 1930, in Hsklabi, Hagatorg, across from the Saga Hotel. Tickets cost from IKr2400. The Salurinn (tel: 570 0400; fax: 570 0401) concert hall in Kpavogur, Hamraborg 6, hosts regular recitals and concerts. Ticket prices vary but normal average price is IKr1500. The Icelandic Opera, Inglfsstraeti, in Garmia Bi (tel: 551 6400 office or 551 4200 tickets; fax: 552 7384; website: www.opera.is), performs lunch operas on Tuesday at 1215. Ticket prices are IKr1000. Tickets for other performances cost from IKr2000. One of the best sopranos in the country, Signy Saemundsdottir, often sings at these events. Bjrk, who broke onto the international music scene with the group The Sugarcubes in 1986, is one of Reykjavik’s most famous daughters, with a string of subsequent solo albums also to her name. Jazz lovers should aim to visit Reykjavik during the first week of September, when the annual Reykjavik Jazz Festival (www.reykjavikjazz.com), an increasingly prestigious event on the international jazz scene, takes place (Sep 29 until Oct 3 this year, 2004). Many of the gigs are at Kaffi Reykjavik, Vesturgata 2 (tel: 562 5530).

Theatre: Serious theatregoers wanting to check out Icelandic drama should head for the National Theatre, Hverfisgata 19 (tel: 5851200 or 5511200 for tickets; website: www.leikhusid.is), or the Reykjavik City Theatre, at Listabraut 3, near the Kringlan shopping centre (tel: 568 8000; website: www.borgarleikhus.is). Tickets start at IKr1700 at the National Theatre and IKr2500 at the Reykjavik City Theatre. A lively, young amateur theatre group, Loftkastalinn, is based at Hdinshsid, Vesturgata (tel: 552 3000). Tickets start from about IKr1500.

Dance: The Iceland Dance Company (tel: 588 0900; website: www.id.is), based at the Reykjavik City Theatre (see Theatre bove), focuses on contemporary work and has a regular programme of modern dance pieces by Icelandic and foreign choreographers.

Film: Reykjavik has six cinemas: Hsklabi, Hagatorg (tel: 530 1919), Kringlubio, Kringlan 4-12 (tel: 588 0800), Laugarasbio, Laugaras (tel: 553 2075), Sambio, Alfabakki 8 (tel: 587 8900), Smarabio, Smaralind Shopping Centre (tel: 564 000) and Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 (tel: 551 9000). Most of the new films shown are from America, although there are also a limited number of European films. Films are usually shown with the original soundtrack and subtitled in Icelandic. The daily papers can provide further details.

Cultural Events: The annual Reykjavik Arts Festival takes place in May. This is Iceland’s premier cultural festival and brings together the best in local and international theatre, dance, music and visual art. Jazz lovers can look forward to the annual Reykjavik Jazz Festival during September or October (Sep 29-Oct 3 in 2004), while film buffs usually gather in Reykjavik in September and October, for the month-long Reykjavik Film Festival. The Iceland Airwaves Music Festival also takes place in October, as a forum for showcasing the best of popular international music.

Literary Notes: According to many experts, the foundations of Icelandic literature were laid during the 12th century, when scribes wrote down the sagas and epic tales of the early Icelandic settlers and villagers gathered in farmhouses on winter nights to hear them. One of the best known, Egils Saga, is a biography of the Viking hero Egill Skallagrimsson. Iceland’s most famous modern writer is Halldor Laxness, who was born in Reykjavik and won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955, for works documenting life in Iceland – such as Independent People (1935) and The Atom Station (1948). Among the most successful of Iceland’s contemporary writers is Hallgrimur Helgason, whose novel 101 Reykjavik (1996) was made into a film of the same name and released internationally in 2000. A dark comic tale of life in the city, the novel tells of an aimless young man who begins to find maturity through an affair with his mother’s Spanish lesbian lover. Evelyn McDonnell tackles the enigmatic Bjork in Army of She (2001), in an irreverent and warm book that ends up with the author truly enamoured with Iceland’s pop queen.

Nightlife

Over the last decade Reykjavik’s nightlife has been hyped up by the enthusiastic Tourist Board and a stream of travel writers. Reykjavik, however, is a small city and those arriving expecting to find a large-scale ‘Ibiza of the North’ may be a little disappointed as most of the action takes place in a very small central area. Having said that, the scene on the weekends, especially in summer, is surprisingly nefarious for such a small city, as revellers flit between bars on the traditional runtur (pub crawl). One strange phenomenon is the nightly drive-by as Reykjavik’s hard-up youth shun the expensive bars and opt to cruise around in their cars for hours on end. Bar prices are expensive, from IKR600 up to as much as IKR1200 for a pint of beer. Most locals tend to counter the expensive bar prices by consuming a lot of alcohol at home before they can go out. Hence, it is not until around 2330 that the streets begin to fill with drinkers and clubbers and the real action begins. First-time visitors should be aware that this can mean some disturbingly drunk and violent people around, although most Icelanders demonstrate a refreshing level of friendliness to visitors.

All of Reykjavik’s nightlife centres on the main street, Laugavegur, and the roads leading off it. The cafs and bars in Reykjavik tend to have a Jekyll and Hyde character – serving beer and coffee throughout the day, before transforming into buzzing drinking and dancing venues in the evening. The runtur is a way of finding the most ‘hip’ bar, with the length of the queues to get in acting as good indications of their ‘hipness’.

Opening times for the majority of caf-bars are Sunday to Thursday 1000-0100 and Friday and Saturday 1000-0300. Nightclubs close around 0400 or 0500 and the dress code is strictly spruce. Alcohol is available from licensed bars, restaurants and fengisbd shops (open Monday to Thursday 1400-1800 and Friday 1000-1800). The minimum drinking age is 20 years. Where there is live music or dancing, expect to pay a cover charge of around IKr1000 per person. For nightlife updates, contact the Tourist Information Centre, Bankastraeti 2 (tel: 562 3045), or go online (website: www.whatson.is).

Caf-bars: Whether British pop star Damon Albarn is still a part-owner or not (no one is telling after an alleged recent tax scandal involving the bar), Kaffibarinn, Bergstadastraeti 1, is still a meeting place of the city’s media set and has a certain cachet, as evidenced by the frequent queues to get in. Reykjavik’s celebs (including Bjrk when she is in town) head to Sir Terence Conran’s Rex Bar, Austurstraeti 9, which has a caf-bistro-style bar upstairs and the quieter ‘Mafia Room’ in the basement. Another popular bar is Kaffibrennslan, Posthusstraeti 9, which (despite its caffeine-inspired name) has a breathtakingly large selection of beers and free English-language magazines to leaf through for those in search of a quieter night. Reykjavik has jumped on the Irish bar bandwagon with The Dubliners, Hafnarstraeti 4, a decent and dimly lit stab at a traditional Irish bar and Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, a less kitsch drinking den with candles and big windows. A current favourite of the smart set is Dillon Bar, Laugavegur 30, which boasts live DJs at weekends and a clientele who all seem to have strolled straight in off the catwalk.

Casinos: Although gambling is not illegal in Reykjavik, there are currently no casinos.

Clubs: Pravda, which has replaced Astro at Austurstraeti 22 (tel: 552 9222; website: www.pravda.is) is the new cool and trendy place to party in the Icelandic capital. Also popular is Nelly’s Caf, corner of Bankastrti and Thorningholtsstrti, a cheerful bar with a small crew of house DJs playing a mix from rock’n’roll to the latest dance tracks on the upstairs dancefloor. The impressive NASA (tel: 511 1313; website: www.nasa.is), located off Austurvollur, opened in 2001 and still draws the crowds with music from disco to house playing on its three floors, and live bands early in the evening. Also at weekends, Restaurant 22, Laugavegur 22, turns into a gay venue after 2300.

Live music: The rather rough and ready Gaukur Stng, Tryggvagata 22, claims to be ‘the Oldest Pub in Reykjavik’ and is still one of the most popular, with live music every night. It is advisable to arrive early to avoid the queues and also to be prepared for some dubious Icelandic heavy rock, which often bashes in among the more interesting local talent. Kaffi Reykjavik, Vifturgata 2, hosts a different band every night and features everything from rock and pop to disco. Although hugely popular, things can get a bit rough and bawdy here, in a venue that doubles as a pick-up joint for twenty/thirty-somethings. On a more civilised note, jazz and blues can be found alternating with rock and pop at Kringlukrin, in the Kringlan shopping mall, and at Gaukurmtng, Triggata 22.

City Statistics

Location: Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland.
Country dialling code: 354.
Population: 115,000 (city); 180,000 (metropolitan area)
Ethnic mix: Homogenous mixture of descendants of Norse and Celts, with a small minority of European and other foreign workers.
Religion: 95% Evangelical Lutheran, 3% other Protestant denominations, 1% Roman Catholic, plus some followers of satr, an ancient Norse religion
Time zone: GMT.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: -1C (27F).
Average July temp: 11C (51F).
Annual rainfall: 780mm (31 inches).

Special Events

Thirteenth Day of Christmas, fireworks, songs and bonfires, 6 Jan, throughout the city
Food and Fun, beer and food festival, end of Feb, restaurants and bars throughout the city
Festival of Light, end of Feb, Laugardalur
Bolludagur (Bun Day), day of excess, 23 Feb, two days before Lent, throughout the city
Sprengidagur (Bursting Day), day of excess before Lent, 24 Feb (Shrove Tuesday), throughout the city
Beer Day, celebration of the lifting of prohibition in 1989, 1 Mar, restaurants and bars throughout the city
First Day of Summer, traditional giving of summer gifts, parades, sporting events and entertainment, 22 Apr, throughout the city
Reykjavik Arts Festival, mid-late May, throughout the city
Festival of the Sea, traditional holiday, first weekend in June, throughout the city
National Day of Iceland, independence celebrations, 17 Jun, throughout the city
International Viking Festival, June, Vidistadatun Park, Hafnarfjrdur
Summer Solstice, gatherings to celebrate the longest day of the year, 21 Jun, throughout the city
Amstel Light Iceland Open, midnight golf, 23-26 June, Reykjavik
Landsmot – Festival of the Icelandic Horse, horse shows and entertainment, late June-early Jul, Vindheimamelar in Skagafjrdur
Gay Pride, parties and parade through city, weekend in early Aug, all over city
Reykjavik Cultural Night, dance, theatre, music and art festival, third Sat in Aug, various indoor and outdoor venues throughout the city
Reykjavik Marathon, third weekend Aug, starts and finishes at Laejhargata
Reykjavik Jazz Festival, end of Sep-beg of Oct, various venues, www.reykjavikjazz.com
Reykjavik Film Festival, end of Sep-beg of Oct, various venues
Unglist Youth Arts Festival, Oct, various venues
Iceland Airwaves Festival, popular international music festival, Oct, various venues
Annar I Jolumm (Second Day of Christmas), locals escape their relatives and party in bars and nightclubs, 26 Dec, throughout the city
New Year’s Eve, bonfires, parties and fireworks, 31 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: IKr250
33cl bottle of beer: IKr500
Financial Times newspaper: IKr300
36-exposure colour film: IKr1000
City-centre bus ticket: IKr220
Adult football ticket: IKr1000
Three-course meal with wine/beer: IKr3000

100 Iceland Krona (IKr100) = 0.85; US$1.58; C$1.98; A$2.05; 1.23
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005