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Nightlife
Over the last decade Reykjavik’s nightlife has been hyped up by the enthusiastic Tourist Board and a stream of travel writers. Reykjavik, however, is a small city and those arriving expecting to find a large-scale ‘Ibiza of the North’ may be a little disappointed as most of the action takes place in a very small central area. Having said that, the scene on the weekends, especially in summer, is surprisingly nefarious for such a small city, as revellers flit between bars on the traditional runtur (pub crawl). One strange phenomenon is the nightly drive-by as Reykjavik’s hard-up youth shun the expensive bars and opt to cruise around in their cars for hours on end. Bar prices are expensive, from IKR600 up to as much as IKR1200 for a pint of beer. Most locals tend to counter the expensive bar prices by consuming a lot of alcohol at home before they can go out. Hence, it is not until around 2330 that the streets begin to fill with drinkers and clubbers and the real action begins. First-time visitors should be aware that this can mean some disturbingly drunk and violent people around, although most Icelanders demonstrate a refreshing level of friendliness to visitors.
All of Reykjavik’s nightlife centres on the main street, Laugavegur, and the roads leading off it. The cafs and bars in Reykjavik tend to have a Jekyll and Hyde character – serving beer and coffee throughout the day, before transforming into buzzing drinking and dancing venues in the evening. The runtur is a way of finding the most ‘hip’ bar, with the length of the queues to get in acting as good indications of their ‘hipness’.
Opening times for the majority of caf-bars are Sunday to Thursday 1000-0100 and Friday and Saturday 1000-0300. Nightclubs close around 0400 or 0500 and the dress code is strictly spruce. Alcohol is available from licensed bars, restaurants and fengisbd shops (open Monday to Thursday 1400-1800 and Friday 1000-1800). The minimum drinking age is 20 years. Where there is live music or dancing, expect to pay a cover charge of around IKr1000 per person. For nightlife updates, contact the Tourist Information Centre, Bankastraeti 2 (tel: 562 3045), or go online (website: www.whatson.is).
Caf-bars: Whether British pop star Damon Albarn is still a part-owner or not (no one is telling after an alleged recent tax scandal involving the bar), Kaffibarinn, Bergstadastraeti 1, is still a meeting place of the city’s media set and has a certain cachet, as evidenced by the frequent queues to get in. Reykjavik’s celebs (including Bjrk when she is in town) head to Sir Terence Conran’s Rex Bar, Austurstraeti 9, which has a caf-bistro-style bar upstairs and the quieter ‘Mafia Room’ in the basement. Another popular bar is Kaffibrennslan, Posthusstraeti 9, which (despite its caffeine-inspired name) has a breathtakingly large selection of beers and free English-language magazines to leaf through for those in search of a quieter night. Reykjavik has jumped on the Irish bar bandwagon with The Dubliners, Hafnarstraeti 4, a decent and dimly lit stab at a traditional Irish bar and Celtic Cross, Hverfisgata 26, a less kitsch drinking den with candles and big windows. A current favourite of the smart set is Dillon Bar, Laugavegur 30, which boasts live DJs at weekends and a clientele who all seem to have strolled straight in off the catwalk.
Casinos: Although gambling is not illegal in Reykjavik, there are currently no casinos.
Clubs: Pravda, which has replaced Astro at Austurstraeti 22 (tel: 552 9222; website: www.pravda.is) is the new cool and trendy place to party in the Icelandic capital. Also popular is Nelly’s Caf, corner of Bankastrti and Thorningholtsstrti, a cheerful bar with a small crew of house DJs playing a mix from rock’n’roll to the latest dance tracks on the upstairs dancefloor. The impressive NASA (tel: 511 1313; website: www.nasa.is), located off Austurvollur, opened in 2001 and still draws the crowds with music from disco to house playing on its three floors, and live bands early in the evening. Also at weekends, Restaurant 22, Laugavegur 22, turns into a gay venue after 2300.
Live music: The rather rough and ready Gaukur Stng, Tryggvagata 22, claims to be ‘the Oldest Pub in Reykjavik’ and is still one of the most popular, with live music every night. It is advisable to arrive early to avoid the queues and also to be prepared for some dubious Icelandic heavy rock, which often bashes in among the more interesting local talent. Kaffi Reykjavik, Vifturgata 2, hosts a different band every night and features everything from rock and pop to disco. Although hugely popular, things can get a bit rough and bawdy here, in a venue that doubles as a pick-up joint for twenty/thirty-somethings. On a more civilised note, jazz and blues can be found alternating with rock and pop at Kringlukrin, in the Kringlan shopping mall, and at Gaukurmtng, Triggata 22.
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Nightlife