World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

Sales tax of 5% and a service charge of 10–15% are added to most restaurant bills in Rio. Most credit cards are now widely accepted in the city’s restaurants, although some of the cheaper or older establishments only accept cash. It is advisable for diners to telephone the restaurant in advance, in order to check whether or not a particular card is accepted.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include sales tax but they do not include service charge.

Gastronomic

Antiquarius
Antiquarius is generally regarded as one of Rio’s best restaurants and has won several prestigious awards for its renderings of classic Portuguese dishes. As well as the elegant splendour of the interior, with its mirror-lined walls and rich furnishings, there is also an antiques shop, which diners can peruse at leisure. As far as gastronomy goes, the leg of lamb is excellent and the menu also features a wide variety of seafood creations, such as shrimp in champagne, lobster thermidor, Cascais-style seafood with rice and over 50 varieties of bacalhau (salted cod). The extensive and impressive wine list includes many fine French, Spanish and Portuguese varieties. It is wise for diners to book ahead, as the restaurant is very popular.

Rua Aristides Espinola 19, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2294 1496 or 1049. Fax: (21) 2512 5756.
E-mail: informacoes@antiquarius.com.br
Website: www.antiquarius.com.br
Price: R$90. Wine: R$33.

Carme Bistr
This small and intimate French-style bistr, with its mirrored walls, chequered floor and silver service on crisp white tablecloths, sports an atmosphere that is refined without being too stuffy. The restaurant serves cordon bleu cuisine that changes seasonally and one of its specialities is game, which goes down well with the excellent selection of wines from the cellar. Diners can choose from starters such as salmon in garlic ginger sauce, mains that might include grilled duck breast on pured potato with caramelised spring onions in a jus du cassis, and then a selection of desserts, such as Honfleur apple tart. Reservations are essential and are made to a strict booking schedule. Dress code is smart. No lunch. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Rua Visconde de Caravelas 113, Botafogo
Tel: (21) 2537 5431.
Price: R$80. Wine: R$24.

Cipriani
The Cipriani, one of two dining rooms in the luxurious Copacabana Palace (see Hotels), is one of Rio’s most exclusive restaurants. In this spacious room with marble floors and French windows, the chef – hailing from the famous Cipriani restaurant in Venice – serves a continually changing selection of North Italian dishes with a Brazilian twist. Tempting appetisers include classic carpaccio with black truffle sauce. Main dishes include veal filet in lemon and oregano sauce served with eggplant, while the heavenly choice of desserts includes Venetian tiramisu and bitter chocolate souffl with crme brle. The dress code is smart – coat and tie are required – and reservations are essential at the weekend.

Copacabana Palace, Avenida Atlntica 1702, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2548 7070. Fax: (21) 2235 7330.
E-mail: reservas@copacabanapalace.com.br
Website: www.copacabanapalace.orient-express.com
Price: R$130. Wine: R$42.

Claude Troisgros
The rather quirky, primrose-coloured Art Deco exterior of Claude Troisgros – named after the renowned French chef who founded it over 20 years ago – contains a surprisingly modern and sophisticated restaurant, which is one of the city’s finest venues. Although the menu is very much centred on traditional French cuisine, Troisgros has always used fresh Brazilian ingredients, which add a tropical theme to dishes. Mains include sole fillet marinated in banana juice with noisette potatoes covered in herb butter or a side of lamb in a tomato, mozzarella and basil sauce. Closed Sunday.

Rua Custdio Serro 62, Jardim Botnico
Tel: (21) 2537 8582. Fax: (21) 2527 8775.
E-mail: escritorio@claudetroisgros.com.br
Website: www.claudetroisgros.com.br
Price: R$70. Wine: R$60.

Le Saint Honor
Located on the 37th floor of Le Meridien Hotel (see Hotels), this refined and classically stylish restaurant offers spectacular views of Copacabana Beach to complement the delightful French cuisine, prepared under the direction of acclaimed chef Paul Bocuse. Brazilian ingredients are used to create exquisite dishes, such as Amazonian pintado (mackerel) with mashed sweet potato and Bois de Boudran sauce or veal filet encrote with a mushroom and garlic flan. Desserts might include tart of mango and pistachio or white chocolate and caramelised figs. The smart dress code and extensive list of fine wines and champagnes make this an ideal place for a lavish dinner. Closed Sunday.

Le Meridien, 37th Floor, Avenida Atlntica 1020, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 3873 8880. Fax: (21) 3873 8777.
E-mail: mail@lemeridien-riodejaneiro.com
Website: www.lemeridien-copacabana.com
Price: R$95. Wine: R$30.

Business

Alfredo di Roma
Based in the Hotel Inter-Continental Rio (see Hotels), Alfredo di Roma is an Italian restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. It is a franchise owned by the well-known chef, Alfredo di Lello, who created the fettucine dish that bears his name. The decor is warm and bright – red walls, dark-wood floor, atmospheric lighting and leafy plants reflect the Mediterranean style of the food on offer. Diners might start their meal with a selection of Italian antipasti or mozzarella baked in a pastry crust with basil sauce, before moving on to mains like tortelli stuffed with salmon in a white wine sauce, risotto with clams flavoured with grappa or, of course, the famous Fettucine Alfredo. There is an extensive wine list and a separate menu for coffees. No lunch.

Inter-Continental Hotel, Avenida Prefeito Mendes de Morais 222, So Conrado
Tel: (21) 3323 2200. Fax: (21) 3322 5500.
E-mail: rio@interconti.com
Website: www.rio-de-janeiro.interconti.com
Price: R$65. Wine: R$30.

Barra Grill
Located just ten minutes from Rio’s longest beach, in the neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, Barra Grill is one of the most popular churrascarias in the city – and deservedly so. The system is that of a typical Brazilian barbecue – waiters visit each table, carrying a platter of beef, chicken and lamb, from which diners choose as much or as little as they wish to eat, with heaps of salad from the buffet. The dining room has a relaxed atmosphere and the service is informal but attentive. Guests of Barra Grill might notice the whisky bottles lining the dark walls, serving as a testimony to the restaurant’s whisky club, where members can entrust their own, labelled bottle to the restaurant and enjoy a tipple whenever they visit. There are live shows in the bar, Tuesday to Saturday.

Avenida Ministro Ivan Lins 314, Barra da Tijuca
Tel: (21) 2493 6060.
Price: R$50. Wine: R$28.

Galani
This exclusive restaurant is located on the 23rd floor of the luxurious Caesar Park Hotel (see Hotels) so, as well as dining on sumptuous international cuisine, guests can also enjoy spectacular views of Ipanema Beach from the large windows. The decor is plain and simple, with neatly laid tables on a marble floor. Antipasti include Padano cheese in balsamic vinegar or aubergine bruschetta with mussels and salmon caviar. For mains, diners have a choice of pastas, risottos, meats and seafood, such as shrimp in saffron sauce with squid fettucine. A buffet lunch (R$52) is served daily.

Caesar Park Hotel, Avenida Vieira Souto 460, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2525 2525. Fax: (21) 2521 6000.
E-mail: hotel_rj@caesarpark.com.br
Website: www.caesar-park.com
Price: R$85. Wine: R$45.

Osteria dell ’Angolo
This smart Centro restaurant is popular with the city crowd for business lunches and is warm and inviting yet simple and uncluttered. There is a fine selection of north Italian dishes, including risottos, meats and pastas, such as tagliolini with scampi e zafferano (scampi with saffrron), accompanied by a wine selection that is predominantly European. The elegant atmosphere and clientele demand more formal dress. No dinner (closes 2000). Closed weekends. However, there is another Osteria dell ’Angolo located in Ipanema, which is open every day for dinner only.

Rua Tefilo Otoni 63, Centro
Tel: (21) 2253 8029.
Price: R$70. Wine: R$32.

Branch:
Rua Paul Redfern 40, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2259 3148.

Siri Mole & Cia
This Brazilian chain specialises in exotic Bahian (northeast Brazilian) seafood dishes. The smart clientele are seated at tables laid with pressed white tablecloths and fine silverware, beside big windows that open out onto the street. The menu boasts six different varieties of moquecas (stews cooked with palm oil, coconut milk, peppers, tomatoes, coriander and other spices), including the sinfonia do mar (symphony of the sea), a bubbling fish and seafood stew prepared in this traditional Bahian fashion. These dishes are usually big enough for two or three people and are served with rice and farofa (ground manioc). The choice of wines includes Brazilian, Chilean, Argentinian and Italian.

Rua Francisco Otaviano 50, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2267 0894 or 2523 4240.
Price: R$90. Wine: R$18.

Branch:
Avenida Rio Branco 1, Centro
Tel: (21) 2233 0107. Fax: (21) 2233 0266.

Trendy

Bar do Arnaudo
Located in a Bohemian corner of the Santa Teresa suburb, Bar do Arnaudo is a tiny bar and restaurant that is full of character. The swing doors open onto a rustic, wooden interior decorated with handicrafts and antique artwork. Wine is served in tankards, while beer and caipirinhas (the name of which translates to ‘little peasant girl’) are also available to accompany the classic dishes from northeast Brazil. Popular choices include carne do sol (sun-dried beef), feijo de corda (black beans in herb sauce) and queijo coalho (grilled cheese on sticks).

Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316B, Santa Teresa
Tel: (21) 2252 7246.
Price: R$45. Wine: R$19.

Boteco 66
Situated in an old house on a residential street, behind a leaf-covered wall, Boteco 66 has a surprisingly modern interior. It is part Paris bistro and part Rio corner bar, which reflects the tastes of its owner – the renowned French chef, Claude Troisgros (see Gastronomic above), who has adopted Brazil as his home. Troisgros has developed a simple menu of European favourites – such as steaks, pastas, risottos and gourmet burgers – all served with a hint of Brazilian flavour and finesse. The wine list is extensive and includes many French favourites as well as a selection of champagnes. The atmosphere and attentive service is unmistakably French and the clientele is appropriately sophisticated.

Avenida Alexandre Ferreira 66, Lagoa
Tel: (21) 2266 0838. Fax: (21) 2527 8775.
E-mail: escritorio@claudetroisgros.com.br
Website: www.claudetroisgros.com.br
Price: R$50. Wine: R$30.

Via Sete Grill
This modern Centro restaurant caters for a busy lunchtime crowd of hungry workers. The colourful decor suits the vibrant atmosphere and the staff is fast, efficient and friendly. Via Sete Grill offers a selection of grilled meats – beef, lamb or chicken – served burger style with salad, potato with cream cheese and salsa. There is also a choice of filled wraps for the more health-conscious customer. No dinner. Closed weekends.

Rua Sete de Setembro 43, Centro
Tel: (21) 2221 8020.
E-mail: cliente@viasete.com.br
Website: www.viasete.com.br
Price: R$40. Wine: R$18.

Branch:
Rua Garcia D’Avila 125, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2512 8100.

Zaz
The people of Rio flock to this tropical bistro in Ipanema, voted ‘one of the top 100 new restaurants in the world’ by Conde Nast Traveller magazine in 2001. The three floors of cosy dining rooms have a distinctly eastern flavour, with Moroccan carpets, exotic artefacts and low-level tables. Yet the cuisine is a mixture of Asian and Brazilian dishes. Main meals include tuna steak with passion-fruit sauce, fried, crunchy kole and jasmine rice. Or diners can take an 11-course journey through the flavours of Zaz for R$105.

Rua Joana Anglica 40, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2247 9101 or 2247 9102.
E-mail: zazabistro@uol.com.br
Price: R$60. Wine: R$28.

Zuka
Bright, modern Zuka is one of the most fashionable new restaurants in Rio. The simple, wooden tables surround a sunken kitchen, where diners can watch their meals being prepared. The food is delicious but it is the presentation that lingers in the memory. Served on big rectangular plates, each dish is a work of art. The selection of grilled steaks and seafood includes shrimps in honey and ginger, with tomato chutney and fresh tagliatelle. Recommended for a light meal is the gourmet burger in dijonaise sauce, served with a pile of stacked fries and green salad.

Rua Dias Ferreira 233, Leblon
Tel: (21) 3205 7154.
Price: R$60. Wine: R$18.

Budget

Aipo & Aipim
Perhaps the best budget option for dining is one of the many quilo (kilo) or plate-by-weight restaurants that can be found throughout the city. Among these individual and chain restaurants, Aipo & Aipim is one of the most popular. The restaurant is decorated with warm, harvest colours and diners eat at basic tables reminiscent of school canteens. The format is the same as any other quilo restaurant – diners pick up a plate, load it with a choice of ingredients from the salad bar and hot plates, then place it on the scales and receive a ticket to be paid after eating. It is simple, efficient and very cheap. Aipo & Aipim has the added advantage of also having a churrascaria, which serves freshly barbecued fish and meat. Other dishes available include basil farfalle and Brazilian beef jerky with cheese. Diners also can select from tempting desserts, which are carried around on a tray.

Avenida Nossa Senhora Copacabana 391, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2255 6285.
Price: R$10. Wine: Unlicensed.

Branches:
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 605, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2549 2215.
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 920, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2547 2101.
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 1175, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2513 2403.
Rua Visconde de Piraj, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2267 8313.

Casa da Feijoada
The feijoada – Brazil’s national dish, introduced by African slaves who were brought over by the Portuguese in the 16th century – is a filling concoction of simmered meats, including pig’s ear, pig’s trotters, dried sausage, salt-cured pork and beef tongue, which are made into a type of stew, along with black beans, spices and orange juice. Although it is traditionally eaten on Saturday, Casa da Feijoada serves up the dish on a daily basis and diners can choose the specific ingredients they wish to be incorporated into their portion. For those who prefer something a little lighter, other Brazilian dishes are also on offer, including marinated chicken or prawns with coconut milk, as well as a delicious selection of traditional desserts, such as doce de abbora com coco (sweet pumpkin with coconut) and doce de leite (caramel rice pudding). The decor, too, is a celebration of Brazil’s national heritage. The walls are painted green and yellow – the two colours of the national flag – and are lined with pictures of the early slaves preparing the feijoada.

Rua Prudente de Moraes 10B, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2247 2776.
Website: www.cozinhatipica.com.br/casa_da_feijoada
Price: R$35. Wine: R$14.

Celeiro
The organic restaurant, Celeiro, is always packed with people enjoying its very healthy but nonetheless tasty cuisine. The decor reflects the natural ingredients used, with rustic wooden panelling and skylights built into the ceiling. The pay-by-weight buffet offers an extensive array of scrumptious salads. There are also hot dishes on the menu, including a variety of pastas. Delectable desserts include truffles, chocolate mousse cup and crunchy mango. No dinner. Closed Sunday.

Rua Dias Ferreira 199, Leblon
Tel/fax: (21) 2274 7843.
E-mail: celeiro@celeiroculinaria.com.br
Website: www.celeiroculinaria.com.br
Price: R$28. Wine: Unlicensed.

Mr pi
Mr pi is another of the quilo (kilo) restaurants, although this one serves gourmet food at slightly higher prices to a predominantly lunchtime crowd of city workers. The decor is elegant and inviting and the smart waiters in pressed white uniforms spoon selected dishes ‘canteen style’ onto plates. One side of the buffet bar serves freshly cooked fish, meats, pies, rice and potatoes, while the other serves Brazilian specialities, such as feijoada (meat and bean stew). Ingredients and recipes change daily and desserts and drinks are picked up en route to the till, where the plate is weighed. No dinner (closes 2000). Closed weekends.

Rua da Alfndega 91D, Centro
Tel: (21) 2224 5820.
Price: R$20. Wine: Unlicensed.

Branch:
Rua da Quitanda 51, Centro
Tel: (21) 2507 3859.

Pizzaria Guanabara
A good selection of tasty pizzas is served in this simple pizzeria. The restaurant spills out onto the pavement, with a line of large green plants separating the diners from the cars. The interior is comfortable and informal and a mural of the Rio landscape dominates one wall. As well as the usual margherita (cheese and tomato) and quattro formaggi (four cheese) options, diners can tantalise their palates with sweet pizza toppings, such as banana or peach. Steaks, seafood and paellas also feature on the menu. The busy road outside might be somewhat distracting but the low prices, down-to-earth atmosphere and late –or rather early – opening hours (until 0400) have made this venue one of the most popular in the affluent Leblon district.

Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva 1228, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2294 0797.
Price: R$35. Wine: R$15.

Personal Recommendations

Bira
It is a long trek to this restaurant in Barra da Guaratiba, on the western edges of the city. However, it is definitely worth the effort. Diners with time and transportation will be rewarded with some of the best Bahian cooking in the Rio area. Specialities from the menu of dishes from northeast Brazil include moqueca (a seafood stew cooked in coconut milk, peppers, coriander and palm oil), which is cooked in an earthenware pot and served bubbling hot at the table. It is usually eaten with rice, sprinkled with farofa (manioc flour) and a hot pepper sauce and is best washed down with a caipirinha made with fresh maracuj (passion fruit). All this is served on a wooden verandah, surrounded by thick vegetation, overlooking a large lagoon. Tiny monkeys sometimes descend from the trees to see what the diners have overlooked.

Estrada Da Vendinha 68A, Barra da Guaratiba
Tel: (21) 2410 8304.
Price: R$60. Wine: R$30.

Cervantes
This Copacabana bar is a great place for visitors to sit or stand with the locals and enjoy a refreshing glass of chopp (beer). It is an old-fashioned venue with frosted windows but has a lively atmosphere. Smartly dressed waiters serve drinks, simple plates and sandwiches to a mixed crowd of customers who drop in at any time of the night for a snack (open until 0500). Meals include filet mignon with broccoli rice, while sandwiches (costing from R$3.50 to R$9.50) feature a variety of meats wrapped in bread with a slice of pineapple. Closed Monday.

Avenida Prado Jnior 335, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2275 6147.
Price: R$30. Wine: R$18.

Confeitaria Colombo
Walking off the streets of modern Centro into the Confeitaria Colombo is much like stepping back in time. The plush interior of Belgian mirrors, curved glass cabinets and Italian marble counters set the scene of an early 20th-century caf where Rio’s high society took afternoon tea. Today, a steady stream of city workers, businesspeople and tourists treat themselves to a special lunch in the opulent interior of one of the city’s finest historic landmarks. The surroundings are best viewed from the upstairs gallery, beneath the exquisitely patterned glass roof. The buffet lunch consists of an appetising selection of salad, meat, fish and rice dishes, followed by mouth-watering cakes and pastries, for which the Confeitaria is deservedly famous. A traditional feijoada (meat and bean stew) buffet is served on Friday. la carte meals are also available. No dinner. Closed Sunday.

Rua Gonalves Dias 32, Centro
Tel/fax: (21) 2232 2300.
E-mail: contato@confeitariacolombo.com.br
Website: www.confeitariacolombo.com.br
Price: R$35 (buffet) or R$75 ( la carte). Wine: R$22.

Doce Delicia
Although Doce Delicia appears classy and upmarket, this restaurant is reasonably priced. It has a welcoming Asiatic theme with its wicker furniture, bamboo walls and calming waterfall features, which cascade like curtains in the middle of the restaurant. The walls are hung with modern paintings and interesting candleholders are scattered throughout the room. Smart, efficient waiters serve simple dishes infused with Brazilian flavour and flair. There are fixed-price plates, daily specials and low-calorie options, including the exquisite Salmo al Limone served with potato noisettes and vegetables. The cakes are as delicious and rich as they look and should not be missed.

Rua Dias Ferreira 48, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2249 2970.
E-mail: sac@docedelicia.com.br
Website: www.docedelicia.com.br
Price: R$35. Wine: R$28.

Branches:
Rua Anibel de Mendana 55, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2259 0239.
Rua do Ouvidor 60, Centro
Tel: (21) 2262 5200.
So Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gvea
Tel: (21) 2420 4943.
Shopping Tijuca, Avenida Maracan 987, Tijuca
Tel: (21) 2284 0455.

Shirley
What started as a front-room eating place serving home-cooked food has grown into one of Rio’s most popular seafood restaurants. This unassuming restaurant – hidden away down a side street, just one block from Copacabana beach – serves a superb range of fish, squid and shellfish dishes. Popular choices include lobster thermidor (R$76), shrimps cooked any which way, fish stew and fish Bahian style. The cosy wood panelling and weathered sea-inspired artwork give the restaurant an authentic and homely atmosphere. No credit cards.

Rua Gustavo Sampaio 610, Leme
Tel: (21) 2275 1398.
Price: R$35. Wine: R$21.