World City Guide

Mini Guide of Prague

City Overview

Prague is quite simply one of the most stunning cities in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage listed gem much eulogised as the ‘City of a Thousand Spires’ and countless other clichs. The Czech capital has become the archetypal post-communist city success story with seemingly not a month going by without a travel pundit or writer conjuring up another city as the ‘New Prague’. Not that there is anything wrong with the old Prague, a city that more than justifies the lavish praise heaped on it. Even the most hardened cynic cannot fail to be impressed strolling across Charles Bridge or unfurling into the Old Town Square for the first time. This is a city where just ambling around the impressively well-preserved historic core (stopping off for a fortifying glass of one of the excellent local beers, popping into boutique shops or one of the myriad museums, whilst admiring the smorgasbord of architectural styles that crowd all around on the way) is the real pleasure.

Prague’s story goes back to the distant days of the Celtic tribes, as early as 400BC. The city’s real golden age commenced when Charles IV of Bohemia was elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1346. The ambitious Gothic building programme, including St Vitus Cathedral, Charles Bridge, the University, and the New Town (Nov Mĕsto), centred on Wenceslas Square and transformed the city into one of the greatest and most powerful in Europe.

The 20th century brought massive trauma for Czechoslovakia and Prague as the country was occupied by the Germans during World War II and then spent the best part of five decades subjugated under Soviet communist rule, with attempts to win greater democracy in the 1968’s ‘Prague Spring’ brutally crushed under the weight of Russian tanks. The Czech spirit remained undaunted and in 1989, as the Berlin Wall tumbled, the Czechs finally broke free of communism during the ‘Velvet Revolution’, which was quickly followed by the ‘Velvet Divorce’ as the Slovak portion of the old Czechoslovakia chose to go its own way.

With poet/president Vaclav Havel at the helm, Prague, one of the few eastern block capitals to escape physically unscathed from World War II, became the hub of the post-communist eastern European revival with ex-pats flocking to the city in the 1990s, quickly developing a buzz that brought comparisons with Paris in the 1920s. This post Velvet Revolution buzz has faded to some extent and these days there are as many foreign as Czech voices on the streets with the city massively popular as a tourist destination (particularly for weekend breaks) and as a business hub. In May 2004, the Czech Republic joined the European Union, further cementing the city’s importance and popularity.

Part of Prague’s charm is that it is a rewarding place to visit at any time of year. Winters can be long, harsh and dark, but spring and autumn are often idyllic with summer bringing some very warm central European temperatures. Whether easing under Charles Bridge on a rowing boat on a balmy summer evening, or trudging across the crisp snow of Old Town Square and enjoying a glass of mulled wine at the Christmas Market, the slick, but still deeply characterful Czech capital seldom disappoints.

Getting There By Air

Praha Ruzyne International Airport (PRG)
Tel: 22011 3304/14. Fax: 22011 5301.
Website: www.csl.cz/en

Ruzyne airport is situated approximately 20km (12.5 miles) northwest of Prague. Terminal Two, one of two modern terminals, is undergoing a major overhaul that is slated to be completed by the end of 2005. Praha Ruzyne International provides an ever-increasing amount of direct links with airports all over Europe and further afield, with 94 destinations covered by the end of 2004.

Major airlines: The Czech Republic’s national carrier, CSA (tel: 22480 6111; website: www.csa.cz), operates international and domestic flights from Ruzyne airport. CSA flies to major cities in Europe and the Middle East, as well as to New York, Chicago, Montreal, Toronto, Bangkok and Singapore. Domestic flights are to Ostrava. International airlines serving Prague include Air Canada, Air France, Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, BMIBaby, British Airways, Delta, easyJet, KLM, Lufthansa, SAS, Saudi Arabian Airlines and Wizz Air.

Approximate flight times to Prague: From London is 1 hour 50 minutes; from New York is 11 hours; from Los Angeles is 18 hours; from Toronto is 10 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is between 21-28 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a post office, banks, bureaux de change, accommodation agencies, restaurant, shops and even a duty-free casino. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: The airport VIP Service (tel: 22205 62525 or 22201 13491; fax: 22011 4372) hires out lounges and two meeting rooms (seating up to 12).They also offer a business lounge with telephone, fax and Internet access, for members and guests only, and a press room (seating 35) in the North Terminal. A Representative Lounge is available, equipped with fax, photocopying, a data-projector and free Internet. Fixed and mobile congress counters can be hired through the VIP Service. The Bohemia Lounge is situated on Pier B of the North Terminal, with Internet, fax and photocopying services. Lounges and two conference rooms (accommodating 14 and 25 delegates) are available for hire in the South Terminal.

Arrival and departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Shuttle minibus services to the city centre (Nmst Republiky) are provided every half-hour 0530-2130, by Cedaz (tel: 22011 4296; fax: 22011 4286; website: www.aas.cz/cedaz), at a cost of Kč90, including one piece of luggage (journey time – 30 minutes). Bus 119 (see Public Transport in Getting Around) goes to metro Dejvick (Line A) and operates every 10 minutes 0430-2330. Tickets cost Kč12 and are available for purchase from the newspaper stand or the machine in front of the terminal. FIX s.r.o. taxis (tel: 22011 3892) are expensive and will charge Kč720-870 depending on city zones (approximately Kč770 to the centre), but they are and dependable and have air conditioned cars. Other taxis are often unlicensed and unscrupulous and visitors should avoid these. Prague’s better hotels can often arrange comfortable and reasonably priced pick-ups.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Getting There By Road

Motorways (limited in number) are marked ‘D’ and international routes by ‘E’. Minor roads are designated by a number, with two or more digits. An annual toll of Kč1,000 (Kč200 for a month and Kč100 for 10 days) must be paid to use Czech roads – toll stickers must be displayed and can be bought at border crossings, post offices and petrol stations. The legal driving age is 18 years. Traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas, 90kph (56mph) on main roads and 130kph (81mph) on motorways. Seatbelts are compulsory for drivers and passengers, front and rear (if fitted). On-the-spot fines are high for all motoring offences. There is zero tolerance for drink and drugs (drivers are expected to have a 0% alcohol to blood ratio). EU licence holders must have an International Driving Permit (IDP) if their normal licence does not have a photograph. An IDP is required for drivers from all other countries. A car registration document and country sticker are also necessary as well as a first aid kit and a warning triangle. Note that headlights must be used at all times during winter. Third party liability insurance is compulsory. For drivers based in the Czech Republic for longer than six months, the car must be registered with the Czech authorities – duty and taxes will cost about half the value of the car and minimum third-party coverage with a Czech insurer is also required.

24-hour emergency phone lines are situated every 2km (1.24 miles) on motorways and international routes. Both the strdn Automotoklub – AMK, Central Automobile Club (tel: 26110 4111; website: www.uamk.cz) and the Autoklub Cesk Republiky – ABA, Czech Automobile Club (tel: 22422 1820; website: www.autoklub.cz) have reciprocal agreements with many automobile associations and provide 24-hour breakdown service. Yellow Angels (tel: 154) is a new service with English and German speaking staff

Emergency breakdown services:
strdn Automotoklub (AMK) 1230
Autoklub Cesk Republiky (ABA) 1240

Routes to the city: The main routes to Prague are the D1/D2 to Brno (the epic delays at the Slovak border have eased since EU accession and travellers need no longer avoid the D2/D1 route via Bratislava). From Belgium, the best route is the E40 to Cologne, then the E31 to Heidelberg and the E50, crossing the German/Czech border at Waidhaus/Rozvadov. From Vienna, the E59 leads to the D1 motorway, the E55 from Dresden and Berlin, the E67 from Wroclaw and Warsaw and the E50 from Paris.

Approximate driving times to Prague: From Vienna – 4 hours 15 minutes; from Warsaw – 10 hours 15 minutes; from Bruges – 12 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: International buses depart either from the Florenc coach station, Kři~kova 8, Prague 8 (conveniently located on both metro lines B and C at Florenc station), or from the coach park at }elivskho station (on metro A), located on the corner of Vinohradsk and Jana-}elivskho, Prague 3. Kingscourt Express (tel: (2) 2423 4583; website: www.kce.cz) is the main bus service provider to Western Europe and the UK. For many destinations within the Czech Republic, coaches are far quicker than trains, which tend to stop at every station. Regional services are provided by the state-run company, CSAD (tel: 4751 00014; website: www.csadbus.cz). Buses depart from a number of stations and the most convenient place for travellers to get information and purchase bus tickets is at Cedok (see Tourist Information).

Getting There By Rail

Cesk drhy – CD (tel: 412 503 113; website: www.cd.cz), manages Prague’s railways and stations. Some of the old-fashioned stock is a delight for travellers and the rail system still displays a great deal of the old Austrian pride in the system – a hangover from the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was famous for the extent of its railway network and the comfort and punctuality of their trains. Even Communist rule could not eradicate the pride the railroad takes in its service and these days the network is being modernised for the 21st century.

Rychlck (also express and span) trains only stop at major towns and cities. Osobnvlak are local trains that stop everywhere and average about 30km (19 miles) an hour. Trains are reliable and usually run on time. In many instances, however, buses are faster, due to routing, though most trains are more comfortable.

The two main international terminals are Hlavn ndra~ (main station), Wilsonova, Prague 2, and Ndra~ Holeaovice, Vrbenskho, Prague 7. Masarykovo ndra~, Hybernsk, Prague 1, is the station for trains to Moravia and Slovakia. Praha-Smchov (Smchovsk ndra~), Prague 5, is the station for trains to the south of Bohemia, and Praha-Vysocany, Prague 5, for eastern Bohemia. All stations have lockers and 24-hour left-luggage facilities, while the international stations also have exchange facilities and tourist information services.

Rail services: Direct rail links connect Prague with more than 20 European cities, including Munich (journey time – 5 hours), Vienna (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes), Berlin (journey time – 5 hours 30 minutes) and Paris (journey time – 10 hours). Seat reservations are strongly recommended on all services.

Transport to the city: The main station (Hlavn ndra~) is only a short walk from the city centre, however, the surrounding park can be very dangerous as it regularly attracts a variety of low life, especially after dark. It is therefore advisable for visitors to take the metro. Ndra~ Holeaovice (line B) and Smchovsk ndra~ (line C) are on the metro, while tram 3 goes from the main station to Masarykovo ndra~.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Prague’s inexpensive and efficient transport system is run by Dopravn podnik Prahy – DP (Prague Public Transit Company) (tel: 29619 1817; website: www.dp-praha.cz). The network includes the metro, trams, buses and the funicular on Petrn Hill. Public transport is an integrated 24-hour system – daytime services run 0500-2400, when night trams and buses take over.

There are three metro lines (A green, B yellow and C red). There are three interchanges – Muzeum (A and C), Mstek (A and B) and Florenc (B and C). Trains run at two-minute intervals 0500-2000 on weekdays and at five- to 10-minute intervals at all other times.

Tickets (jzdenky) must be purchased in advance and stamped on entering trams and buses and the transport area of the metro. These are valid for all forms of public transport and can be purchased at station ticket machines, most tobacconists, information centres and any shops displaying the red and yellow DP sticker. Two tickets are available. The Kč8 ticket allows one ride of up to four stops on the metro or a 15-minute ride above ground without transfers (not valid on night buses, the funicular or historical tram). The Kč12 ticket is valid on all forms of transport, including transfers, for one hour at peak times or 90 minutes at all other times. The on-the-spot fine for travelling without a valid ticket is Kč400 and there have been persistent reports of some staff waiting around broken machines to slap fines on unsuspecting travellers.

A funicular railway (lanovka) runs every 10-15 minutes 0915-2045, carrying passengers from jezd in the Lesser Town to the top of Petrn Hill. Tickets cost Kč12.

The historic tram No.91 runs at weekends and on public holiday between April and November, taking tourists on a ramble around the main sights for Kč25.

Travel passes cost Kč70 for 24 hours, Kč200 for three days, Kč250 for a week and Kč280 for 15 days, Kč 420 for one month. A tourist version of the three-day pass, the Tourist Pass, costing Kč690, also allows entrance to over 40 tourist attractions (see Tourist Information).

Taxis
Some taxi firms have links to organised crime, unregistered drivers are widespread and many of the horror stories about exorbitant fares are true and all too frequent. Taking a taxi off the street is best avoided at all times. However, for those who do wish to take the risk, ProfiTaxi (tel: 26131 4151), with English-speaking drivers, are usually safe. Bars and restaurants are also often happy to book a taxi with a reputable firm for customers, a much better option than catching one off the street.

Travellers can expect to pay Kč30 for a street pick-up and Kč25 for a call-up. Fares are charged at Kč22 per kilometre and Kč4 per minute of waiting time. Officially licensed taxis are required by law to have a meter – if the driver refuses to switch it on, travellers are strongly advised to find another cab. Even then many of the meters have been tampered with or drivers may ask for dubious supplements. Passengers normally round up to the nearest Kč10 at the least. An additional amount of 8-10% of the fare could be tipped for exceptional service.

Limousines
Car Service, Palc Vltava, Revolucn, Prague 1 (tel: 22482 6262; fax: 22482 6261; e-mail: info@limousineservis.cz; website: www.limousineservis.cz) and Limousine Car Spiritka, Suaick 21, Prague 6 (tel: 22431 4857; fax: 22431 7372; e-mail: travel@beourguest-limousines.com; website: www.beourguest-limousine.com) can arrange a variety of luxury cars and other extras like bodyguards. Prices start from about Kč800 per hour for an Opel Astra or Kč1,600 for a Mercedes S (50km distance per hour included).

Driving in the City
Cobbled streets, tram lines and erratic drivers all contribute to make driving in Prague an unpleasant experience. In addition to this, the historic centre of the city is pedestrianised. Parking is a major problem and it is usually best for tourists to leave the car in the secure hotel car park and use public transport. Illegally parked cars will either be clamped or towed away, with retrieval costing at least Kč1,000 (tel: 158). There are three parking zones – orange for stays of up to two hours (Kč40 per hour), green for stays up to six hours (Kč30 per hour) and blue for residents and local businesses only. Cars should be locked and alarmed, valuables or radios should not be on display inside.

To discourage driving in the centre of the city, the city transport authority has set up a series of parking lots with direct links to the metro. Indicated by a P+R (park and ride) sign, these parking lots are guarded and charge a flat rate of Kč10. These include Praha 4, Hrncirska (line C, Opatov station), Praha 5, Radlick (line B, Radlick station), Praha 5, Zlicn (line B, Zlicn station), Praha 7, Ndra~ Holeaovice railway station (line C, Ndra~ Holeaovice station), Praha 9, Chlumecka (line B, Rajsk Zahrada and Cern most stations) and Praha 10, V Rybnickach (line A, Skalka station).

Car Hire
Car hire is expensive in Prague and (given the pedestrianisation of the city centre) not really necessary other than for trips out-of-town. Those looking to hire a car should arrange this before arriving, which will guarantee availability and avoid language difficulties. Clients must be over 21 years and must have held a full driving licence for at least a year. A valid national driving licence and an International Driving Permit, a passport and a credit card for the deposit are required. Car hire prices generally include collision damage waiver, theft protection and third party coverage.

Car hire is available at Ruzyne airport, Cedok, American Express offices and many large hotels. Major companies include Avis, Klimentsk 46, Prague 1 (tel: 22185 1225; website: www.avis.cz), Budget, Cistovick 100, Prague 6 (tel: 23532 5713; fax: 23532 5711; website: www.budget.cz) and Hertz, Karlovo nmst 28, Prague 2 (tel: 22223 1010 or 2010 2424 (reservation centre); website: www.hertz.cz). Local companies include Dvořk, Prague Hotel Hilton, Probezni 8, Prague 8 (tel: 22484 2313; fax: 22484 2407; website: www.dvorak-rentacar.cz), Royal Rent, Opetalova, Prague 1 (tel: 22424 44500; website: www.royalrent.cz) and Toscar, Novovysocansk 2a, Prague 9 (tel: 26631 5586; fax: 26631 1254; e-mail: info@toscar.cz; website: www.toscar.cz).

Local companies charge from about Kč1,000 per day, while international companies’ rates tend to be higher, from about Kč2,200.

Bicycle Hire
With high pollution levels, unsympathetic drivers and a lack of cycle lanes, cycling in Prague cannot be recommended. Nevertheless, bicycle hire and group tours of Prague are available in the summer from City Bike, Krlodvorsk 5 (tel: 07761 80284; e-mail: citybike@pragueonline.cz; website: www.pragueonline.cz/citybike), located not far from the Old Town Square. Rates are Kč700 per day with passport or ID as a deposit. A solid lock, helmet and a copy of Prague In Your Pocket come as part of the deal. Booking is possible through the website. Two hour guided group tours leave at 1000, 1400 and sunset.

Business

Business Profile
Since breaking free of communism in 1989, the Czech Republic, with Prague firmly at the helm, has managed a speedy and efficient move towards market capitalism, perhaps the most impressive of all the former Eastern Bloc countries. The ascension to the European Union in May 2004 rubber stamped this progress and the country’s economy remains one of the strongest in the region, with most of the structural economic problems of the switch from communism already dealt with. EU membership brings a host of challenges but also the potential of expanded markets and opportunities.

The Czech Republic’s principal industries remain power engineering and fuels, metallurgy, engineering, glass, wood and armaments. The rapidly growing service industry is a major source of income, with the related tourist industry providing enough invisible income to help redress the trade deficit. Tourism has become massively important economically for the Czech Republic and particularly Prague over the last decade, both as a major revenue generator and as an employer.

Prague is at the centre of Czech business (over 20% of the country’s GDP is created here) although there is no particular central business district, with companies located in all parts of the city and suburbs. As heavy engineering moves outside the city, service industries (financial, retail and telecommunications) and manufacturing industries (electrical, transport and food processing) are becoming increasingly prevalent in the centre. Companies basing their Czech or Eastern European headquarters in Prague include ABB, Siemens and Philips.

Banks are still sometimes cautious about making loans without sound collateral and sources of venture capital are still sometimes limited. This has led to a squeeze on the small and medium enterprises (SMEs), which should be at the heart of a dynamic economy.

Unemployment in the Czech Republic moved above the psychologically important 10% barrier for the first time since the fall of communism in 2004. The strong Czech Koruna is also an economic problem at the moment – exports, especially to the United States, have fallen in recent years. Prague’s rate of unemployment, though, is still only around 3%. Unemployment figures show wide regional variations and some regions of the country, notably those, like Most, in coal mining and steel production areas, are above 20%.

All is not gloom, however, since much of the Czech workforce is well trained (and willing to retrain), intelligent and hard working. Opportunities for venture capital investment, especially in the SMEs, can potentially reap rich rewards, while low share prices offer attractive bargains. Large conglomerates are being broken up and the companies that emerge should be leaner and better able to compete in a global market.

Business Etiquette
By and large the Czechs are a warm people who greatly value hospitality. In some instances, when dining with Czech business colleagues, it will emerge that the bill has quietly been settled. If this happens, business visitors should accept gracefully (considering the disparity in Czech and Western wages, this may also be a matter of personal pride) and try to find some later means of showing appreciation. Czech society is still largely male dominated and, especially with older businessmen, it is unheard of for a woman to pay for a meal, even if she is the senior member of the team. If invited to dine at a colleague’s home, a small gift is appropriate – a bottle of wine or flowers are best. When offering or accepting a lift with a business colleague, the favoured location is the backseat.

Initial business meetings are often serious affairs, during which even business partners refer to each other by title and surname. The use of forenames is a mark of friendship, however, using them without permission is seen as insulting or demeaning. Degrees are considered important and should always be used in addressing correspondence (only the doctorate is used in direct address). Meetings can take longer than expected and be more formal than the average Western businessperson is accustomed to. However, as the old Communist bureaucratic ways give ground to capitalism, business lunches and such meetings are gaining popularity, especially with the younger generation. One should not expect work-related meals to be the norm though.

Office hours are generally 0830-1700 and punctuality is essential – colleagues should be informed of any unavoidable delays. Dress is conservative for older businesses, while new companies tend to be more relaxed. A jacket and tie for men or smart suit for women is a good bet for first time business visitors. A firm handshake and maintaining eye contact are seen as signs of honesty and sincerity, while overloud talking and interrupting are construed as attempts to obscure issues. At first meetings, business cards will be exchanged and an offer of coffee or drinks is common. Congratulating local business people on the Czech Republic’s accession to the European Union should be avoided as this can be regarded as patronising at best or even insulting

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting Prague is that much of the compact old core is accessible on foot, with plenty of bars and cafes to provide relief along the way and an excellent public transport system on hand to ease tired limbs. The most famous square in Prague is Wenceslas Square, scene of the Velvet Revolution celebrations in 1989, though its shabby facades and dubious nightclubs are not too appealing these days. Just to the northwest is a far more cohesive and appealing public space, the Old Town Square, the throbbing heart of tourist Prague. The view from the top of the Old Town Hall gives a solid idea of the layout.

Head west towards the river and Karluv Most (Charles Bridge), with its hotchpotch of peddlars, entertainers and backpackers, unfurls across to the Mal Strana district. The bridge links the Lesser Town and the Castle above with the Old and New Towns. The central tourist area is made up of five sections. Hradčany is the Castle district, which also includes Katedrala Sv Vita (St Vitus Cathedral) and Klster sv Jiř (St George’s Convent). Mal Strana (Little or Lesser Town) is at the castle’s foot. Back east across Karluv Most lies Star Město (Old Town), with its winding narrow streets, Old Town Square and Old Town Hall (Staromestsk Radnice). The much ignored Josefov (the Jewish Quarter) is to the north of the old town while Nov Město (New Town) to the south hugs the river and is home to some interesting modern architecture.

The well publicised floods of 2002 did cause major damage to many low lying buildings on the banks of the Vltava, but apart from some reconstruction work here and there most visitors are unlikely to notice anything out of the ordinary thanks to speedy and efficient restoration work in the immediate aftermath of the floods.

While the Castle district and the Old Town are the real tourist hubs of the city, there is plenty else waiting elsewhere in Prague and further afield. Green spaces include Letn Park, Karlovo Namesti and Petrin Hill. There are myriad half and full day trip options with the chance to visit the UNESCO World Heritage town of Cesky Krumlov, one of Central Europe’s most charming escapes.

Tourist Information
Pra~sk Informacn Slu~ba (PIS – Prague Information Service)
Na přikop 20, Prague 1
Tel: 12444 (general).
E-mail: tourinfo@pis.cz
Website: www.prague-info.cz

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat and Sun 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1500 (Nov-Mar).

PIS branches can also be found in the Old Town Hall, Staromstsk nmst, Prague 1, Celetn, Prague 1, Hlavn ndra~ (main train station), Wilsonova, Prague 1, and, in the summer, at Malostransk mosteck vex (Lesser Town Bridge Tower), Prague 1.

Cedok Travel Agency
Na přikop 18, Prague 1
Tel: 22419 7242. Fax: 22421 6324.
E-mail: cedok@cedok.cz
Website: www.cedok.cz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1300.

Passes
A three-day Tourist Pass, costing Kč790, allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to over 40 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges cost Kč590. These passes are available for purchase from tourist information centres and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP).

Key Attractions

Karluv Most (Charles Bridge)
The construction of Prague’s most famous and most photographed location was begun in 1357, as part of Charles IV’s monumental building programme that included the Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the University. All were supervised by the Swabian architect Peter Parler (although the bridge construction is now known to have been begun by Master Otto). The bridge replaced the earlier Judita (Judith) bridge, the only surviving remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Mal Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation), which flank the bridge, that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these (the Crucifixion) was erected in 1657, followed soon after by the only bronze statue, that of St John of Nepomuk (who was martyred after being thrown from the bridge). Most of the other statues of the saints (carved from local sandstone by Josef Brokof and Matthias Braun) were added between 1706 and 1714 (the latest was not added until 1928). Due to pollution, most have been replaced and the originals are housed in the Lapidarium in Letn Park. Many tourists wonder about the wooden constructions at the base of the pilings on the upriver side – these protect against ice floes and logjams during the spring melt-off.

The fully pedestrianised bridge serves as a focal point for tourists. There are stalls of various artists and craftspeople lining the bridge, while buskers of all descriptions (from Dixieland jazz bands to puppeteers) provide a constant source of entertainment and often congestion. Strolling across as the sun comes down while a young violinist wafts music across the Vltava is one of the quintessential Prague experiences.

Star Město(Old Town)
Transport: Metro Staromestsk; tram 17, 18, 51 or 54.

Pra~sk Hrad (Prague Castle)
From almost any part of Prague, the Castle, perched on the ridge in Hradčany, dominates the skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex (with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right) is most striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible to see everything in a single day.

Katedrla sv Vta (St Vitus Cathedral), the country’s largest church, takes up most of the third courtyard. Inspired by the Gothic cathedral at Narbonne, work commenced in 1344, but, reflecting the changing fortunes of the Czechs, was not completed until 1929. The finest of the 22 side chapels is that built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas – the gilded walls are inlaid with hundreds of semi-precious stones that frame the luminous 14th-century paintings. The overly ornate Baroque tomb of St John of Nepomuk was the work of the Jesuits intent on promoting this martyr as the Czech patron saint in opposition to Wenceslas. The Coronation Chamber displays the Bohemian crown jewels, but is only infrequently open to the public. The Crypt is the resting place of most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia. Bazilika sv Jiř (St George’s Basilica) is a marvel of Romanesque architecture. Founded in 970, it was rebuilt in the 12th century and acquired its present Baroque faade in the 16th century. The chapel dedicated to Saint Ludmilla, the first Czech martyr, is particularly fine. Klster sv Jiř (St George’s Convent), the oldest monastery in the country, was founded in 973 for Benedictine nuns. It now houses a remarkable collection of early Czech art, from the Gothic to Baroque periods.

In the Castle Gardens, the Belvedere is Prague’s finest Renaissance building. Built in the 1530s as a summerhouse for Queen Anne, it now houses a changing programme of exhibitions. Zlat Ulicka (Golden Lane), with its 16th-century houses built into the fortifications, derives its name from being the residences of the court alchemists.

Hradcansk nmst, Prague 1
Tel: 22437 3368.
E-mail: jaromir.potucek@hrad.cz (tickets and tours) or frantisek.kadlec@hrad.cz (information centre)
Website: www.hrad.cz
Transport: Tram 22 to Pra~sk hrad; metro to Hradcansk.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); daily 0900-1600 (Nov-May).
Admission: Kč220 (castle); free (grounds).

Staromstsk Nmst (Old Town Square)
The 12th-century Old Town Square is the focal point for tourists. Stalls selling crafts line the perimeter and horse-drawn carriages await those wishing to take a tour of the historic centre. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city’s largest Christmas Market. The centre is dominated by the monumental memorial to the 14th-century religious reformer, Jan Hus. The Prague Meridian is also found here, designating kilometre zero, from which all distances in the city are measured. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest. The Gothic Staromestsk Radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion (dating to the early 15th century) reveals the Apostles at two windows. Beware the pickpockets who flock to the chimes as eagerly as the tourists. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb Gothic Chrm Matky Bo~ Před Tnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer, Tycho Brahe, is found.

Star Mĕsto (Old Town)
Transport: Metro Staromestsk; tram 17 or 18.

Josefov (Jewish Quarter)
Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. Much of the area was cleared to make way for Art Nouveau buildings, but some of the flavour still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum, allows admission to the }idovnick Radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, the Maisel, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery (in use from the 15th century until 1787) and the Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovon Synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), the oldest synagogue in Europe

Star Mĕsto
Transport: Metro Staromstsk.

Jewish Museum
U Star akoly 1, Prague 1
Tel: 22481 9456 or 22231 7191 (ticket reservations). Fax: 22481 9458 or 22231 7181 (ticket reservations).
E-mail: reservacni.centrum@jewishmuseum.cz
Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1630 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: Kč490 (Jewish Museum sites); Kč (Jewish Museum only); Kč200 (Old-New Synagogue).

Obecn Dm (Municipal House)
The gem of Art Nouveau in Prague, Obecn Dm, has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by A Balsnek and Osvald Polvka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction (1905-10). However, even Karel Spillar’s striking mosaic and the sculptural group by Ladislav `aloun cannot prepare the visitor for the remarkable interiors. Most spectacular of the public areas, the Lord Mayor’s Room features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, caf and the Amerikansk bar were also the work of Polvka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public.

Nmst Republiky 5, Prague 1
Tel: 22200 2101. Fax: 22200 2100.
E-mail: info@obecnidum.cz
Website: www.obecnidum.cz
Transport: Metro Nmest Republiky; tram 5, 14 or 24.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (exhibition hall); daily 0730-2300 (caf).
Admission: Free; Kč150 (guided tours, booking essential); approximately Kč60-100 (separate exhibitions).

Vclavsk Nmest (Wenceslas Square)
Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989, that the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague – from the fashionable and expensive stores to the prostitutes and taxis controlled by organised crime rings. Nothing remains of the square’s earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague’s largest stores – often of more interest for their architecture than for their contents. News kiosks at the bottom end are the best place to purchase Czech and foreign-language newspapers. There are numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s) leading to or surrounding a cinema (in almost all instances) - many are now being renovated to their original Art Deco splendour, chiefly to house trendy shops. The Lucerna (see Live music in Nightlife) is undoubtedly the finest of these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, excellent caf and numerous small shops.

Situated on the opposite side of Wenceslas Square, at number 25, the Grand Hotel Evropa (website: www.motylek.com/evropa), is a major landmark of the First Republic. The Evropa’s time has not yet returned and service is still reminiscent of the Communist period. Its faded splendour is best enjoyed briefly over coffee or tea. The focal point of the upper end of the square is JV Myslbek’s monumental bronze equestrian statue of the Pomnk sv Vclav (St Wenceslas Memorial). The four surrounding statues are of national patron saints – Ludmilla, Procopius, Agnes and Vojtech (Adalbert).

At the top of the square stands the Nrodn Muzeum (National Museum). Founded in 1818, this houses the country’s oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections (dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology) are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. Built in the neo-Renaissance style, the faade and interior decorations form a striking celebration of the history of the former Czechoslovakia.

Nov Město(New Town)
Transport: Metro Mstek (bottom) or Muzeum (top).

Nrodn muzeum (National Museum)
Vclavsk 68, Prague 1
Tel: 22449 7111. Fax: 22224 6047.
Website: www.nm.cz/english
Transport: Metro Muzeum.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr); closed first Tues of the month.
Admission: Kč100; concessions available; free first Mon of month.

Further Distractions

Uměleckoprůmyslovho Musea
(Museum of Decorative Arts)
Only a small fraction of the museum’s holding is on display but what is there makes a mockery of fine art’s supposed elevation above applied art. The fin-de-sicle building itself is stunning. Divided into two floors, the ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions, while the top floor presents a wide range of crafts. Of particular interest and beauty are the Czech ceramics and glassware.

Ulice 17 listopadu 2, Prague 1
Tel: 25109 3135. Fax: 25109 3296.
E-mail: komunikace@upm.cz
Website: www.knihovna.upm.cz
Transport: Metro Staroměstsk; tram 17 or 18.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: Kč150.

Muchovo Muzeum (Mucha Museum)
Celebrating the life of Czechoslovakia’s best-known artist, Alfons Mucha (1860-1934), this collection in the Kaunitz Palace includes many of his Paris posters, including those for performances by Sarah Bernhardt. Paintings, sketchbooks and a recreation of his Paris studio are also on display. There is a pleasant terrace caf as well.

Kaunick palc, Pansk 7, Prague 1
Tel: 22145 1333. Fax: 22145 1335.
E-mail: info@mucha.cz
Website: www.mucha.cz
Transport: Metro Můstek.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission: Kč120.

Wax Museum Prague
The Wax Museum Prague has proved to be a popular attraction and has now moved from its original home to two different locations. The Melantrichov Museum features the ‘Hall of Celebrities of the 20th Century’, the ‘Gallery of Totalitarian Rulers’ and the multimedia program ‘Magical Prague’. The museum at Mosteck focuses on Czech history, including a medieval alchemical laboratory and a 19th-century street scene.

Melantrichov 5, Prague 1
Tel: 22493 3349. Fax: 22493 3915.
Transport: Metro Můstek.

Mosteck 18, Prague 1
Tel: 25753 5753. Fax: 22493 3915.
Transport: Metro Malostransk; tram 12 or 22.

E-mail: info@waxmuseumprague.cz
Website: www.waxmuseumprague.cz
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000.
Admission: Kč120 (single museum), Kč180 (combined ticket); concessions available.

Small and temporary museums
Prague is constantly acquiring new museums, some for the summer season only. These are often strange and extremely interesting. Visitors should look for posters or leaflets in the tourist offices. Among the best to pop in recent years are the Muzeum Komunismu (Museum of Communism), covering the 1948-1989 reign of Communism in the city and the Sex Machines Museum, an exposition of mechanical erotic appliances.

Museum of Communism 1948-89
Na přikopě 10 (first floor), Prague 1
Tel: 22421 2966.
E-mail: muzeum@muzeumkomunismu.cz
Website: www.muzeumkomunismu.cz
Transport: Metro Můstek.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2100.
Admission: Kč180 (concessions available).

Sex Machines Museum
Melantrichova 18, Prague 1 (off the Old Town Square)
Tel: 22421 6505. Fax: 22421 6513.
E-mail: info@sexmachinesmuseum.com
Website: www.sexmachinesmuseum.com
Transport: Metro Staroměstsk.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2300.
Admission: Kč250 (concessions available).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A number of companies offer excellent walking tours of Prague, some with themes such as ghosts, Kafka and legends. Most charge approximately Kč300 for a two-hour tour. Leaflets are available at all tourist information service locations (see Tourist Information). Most tours start from beneath the Astrological Clock in the Old Town Square. Guides will hold up an umbrella of some colour so that people joining the tour can locate them.

Prague Walks, Nezamyslova 7, Prague 2 (tel: 60327 1911 or 60525 3494; fax: 26121 4603; e-mail: pwalks@comp.cz; website: www.pragueandcountry.cz/pwalks), offer scheduled themed walks, including the six-hour (with a boat trip and lunch) Grand Walk (Kč900), the 1 hour 30 minute Modern Walk, Life In Communism, Life Today tour (Kč300), which has been updated to take in EU membership, and the }i~kov Pub Walk on Fridays and Saturdays which explores this raffish and very lively suburb away from the tourists hordes. The Kč350 charge includes three beers and a traditional Czech dinner. Departure points vary depending on the tour, but are often underneath the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square or a nearby tram or metro station. Guides speak English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. The company also arranges personal guides for individual tours.

City Walks (tel: 22224 4531; e-mail: praguewalkingtours@hotmail.com; website: www.praguer.com) provides a number of walking tours, as well as bicycle and boat tours. Daily Walks of Prague (tel/fax: 28191 7642; website: www.walks.cz) and Prague Travel Ltd (tel: 22251 6064; fax: 22252 0573; e-mail: info@praguetravel.cz; website: www.praguetravel.cz) both offer a number of walks. Wittmann Tours (tel: 22225 2472; website: www.wittmann-tours.com) specialises in tours of Jewish interest, both in the city and further afield.

Bus Tours
Prague Sightseeing Tours (tel: 22231 4661; e-mail: pstours@pstours.cz; website: www.pstours.cz) depart from Nmst Republiky and terminate in the city centre – free pick up from most four-star hotels can also be arranged. The ‘Grand City Tour’, which takes in all the major sights and includes a walking tour, takes three and a half hours and costs Kč600. All tours are in English and other major European languages on request.

Bus tours of Prague and other tourist locations are also available through Best Tour (tel: 28481 4141; fax: 22482 6261; website: www.besttour.cz) and Bohemia Travel Service (tel: 22482 6262; fax: 22482 6261; website: www.citytours.cz). Numerous tours of the nearby castles, such as Karlatejn and Konopiat, are also available through Cedok, Na přkopĕ 18, Prague 1 (tel: 22419 7241; fax: 22421 6324; website: www.cedok.cz), travel agencies and booths and kiosks throughout the city.

Boat Tours
Prague Sightseeing Tours (tel: (2) 2231 4661 or 4655; e-mail: pstours@pstours.cz; website: www.pstours.cz) offers three special boat tours. A cruise on the Vltava River with lunch and music costs Kč750, taking passengers under the Charles Bridge on this two-and-a-half-hour trip. The two-hour cruise on the Vltava River with coffee and cake is cheaper, at Kč450, travelling past the Prague Castle District and Lesser Town. The ‘Prague by Night Tour’, costing Kč1290, is three hours of onboard dining and cruising, before a one-hour coach trip to Prague’s most beautiful squares. All tours depart by coach from Nmst Republiky.

Other Tours
Dopravn podnik Prahy (tel: 22262 3777; website: www.dp-praha.cz) offers tours around the city centre on the Historic Tram 91. The circular route runs from Vstaviste, through Mal Strana, across the Vltava to the National Theatre, through Wenceslas Square and returns to Vstaniste via Nmst Republiky. The tram runs hourly 1300-2000 on Saturday, Sunday and holidays, from April to November. A ticket costs Kč25 (concessions available) and travellers can board at any stop en route – an entire round trip takes an hour.

Fiacres (horse-drawn taxis of the pre-car era) offer tours of the centre of the Old Town. Fiacres are found along the west side of the Old Town Square and tours of 20 minutes cost approximately Kč600.

Old Timer History Trip (tel: 77682 9897; website: www.historytrip.cz) offer unique tours in Prague, in beautifully restored cars from the great age of Czech motoring, which took place between the two World Wars. Drivers are suitably attired in 1930s costumes. There are a number of set tours: a three hour tour costs Kč1,100 per person for groups up to 14 people and then Kč900 per person after that.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Vyaehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vyaehrad, 3km (2 miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence does not bear out the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that, in the 11th and 12th centuries, Vyaehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo-Gothic (1880s) church of sv Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the faade has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Vyaehrad Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics – an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvork and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vyaehrad itself, located on Neklanova and Rasnovo nbře~, are villas designed by the architect Josef Chochol, whose designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism.

Vyaehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels). Vyaehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnosti 159 (tel: 24141 0348; e-mail: info@praha-vysehrad.cz; website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz), provides further information.

Troja (Trojsk Zmek): Prague’s only chateau, Troja (tel: 28385 1614), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich Baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I’s victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May to October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Ndra~ Holeaovice or a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700 (November to March). Admission is Kč100 (free on the first Tuesday of the month).

Prague Zoo near Troja (tel: 29611 2230; website: www.zoopraha.cz) is getting back to its feet after its closure in the aftermath of the flood at the end of August 2002. Visitors should check in advance before planning a trip there.

For a Whole Day

Kutn Hora: Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutn Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century, as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boom town economy developed and, until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent-like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners’ guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrdek in Barborsk Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines (protective clothing is supplied).

Kutn Hora’s main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec – linked to Prague by trains from Hlavn ndra~ or fast trains from Masasykov ndra~, on Wilsonova at the eastern end of Hybernsk (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Visitors must change to the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from Prague, which leaves from outside metro }elivskho.

Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located 3km (2 miles) northeast of the Kutn Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary (kostnice) on Zmeck. Part of the Cistercian Abbey complex (now the largest tobacco factory in Central Europe) the graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindřich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The noble Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870, they commissioned a local woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed. Visitors can reach the monastery with the ossuary by bus 1 or 4 from the town centre. Kutn Hora has a particularly good selection of pictorial signs pointing to all the sights.

The Tourist Information Office, Palackho nmst 377 (tel: 32751 2378; website: www.kutnahora.cz), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutn Hora, Sankturin House, Palackho nmst 377 (tel: 32751 5556; fax: 32751 2378; e-mail: infocentrum@kutnohorsko.cz; website: www.kutnohorsko.cz) provide further information. Barborsk Czech Silver Museum (tel: 32751 2159; website: www.cms-kh.cz)

Cesky Krumlov: This idyllic Bohemian town stakes a fair claim to being the most attractive in the country. UNESCO rated it so highly that it featured second in importance on their World Heritage list behind Venice and with good reason. Cesky Krumlov was badly damaged by the floods a few years ago, but it is now largely back to its best. This sleepy town curls around the Vltava river in a swish of churches, old town houses and a charming picture postcard perfect castle, which hangs high above the scene.

The compact old town is every bit as appealing as any part of Prague with plenty of cosy cafes and bars where visitors can relax for a while. Other attractions include visiting the one of the largest castle complexes in the country, once home to the mighty Rozemberk dynasty. Its pastel pink tower brings a touch of drama to the rather more austere faade and regular tours run around the interior. Tours also explore the local Eggenberg Brewery, which the brewery produces to really put the place on the map for most Czechs. There is little else to do, which is part of the charm, bar lazing by the river, or taking a boat out and idling beneath the ramparts of that dramatic castle. The town comes alive with the Cesky Krumlov International Music Festival in July/August.

Regular trains leave from Prague’s main station and there are also bus services from the Czech capital. Note that walking from the train station is quite a trawl into the Old Town. The Tourist Information Office, Namesti Svornosti 1 (tel: 38070 4621; website: www.ckrumlov.cz) have plenty of information on Cesky Krumlov and they can also book canoe and boat trips on the Vltava.

Sport

The Czechs’ greatest sporting success has come from tennis, with Ivan Lendl, Martina Navrtilov and Jana Novotn being regarded as national sporting heroes. Success was also enjoyed in 1998, when the Czech ice hockey team were the Olympic champions. The Czech national football team has largely flattered to deceive in recent years after making the final of the European Championships in 1996, with strong qualifying performances not matched when it comes to big events. In the domestic league, the First Division rivalry between Sparta Praha (website: www.sparta.cz) and Slvia Praha (website: www.slavia.cz) is very strong. Prague’s other First Division team, FK Victoria }i~kov (website: www.fkviktoriazizkov.cz), is based at the Viktoria }i~kov Stadium, Seifertova třda, Prague 3 (tel: 22272 2045). Sparta Praha play at their own Letna Stadium, Milady Horkov 98, Prague 7 (tel: 22057 0323), while Slvia Praha play at the Eden Stadium, Vladivostock 1460/2, Prague 10 (tel: 26731 1102). Despite the fact that many of the best Czech players move overseas, Sparta Prague have managed to make some inroads in the Champions League in recent seasons. In the 2003/2004 season, Sparta, though, suffered the ignominy of coming second in the league behind Banik Ostrava while Slavia were fourth.

Ticketpro, Rytřsk 31, Prague 1 (tel: 29632 9999 ; e-mail: etix@ticketpro.cz; website: www.ticketpro.cz), and other locations around the city, is the best source for tickets to sporting events.

Prague has not yet developed a comprehensive network of sports facilities that cater for visitors and facilities for foreign sports fans are limited.

Fitness Centres: As is the case throughout Eastern Europe, fitness centres are appearing everywhere – most are members only and many have questionable levels of supervision. Luxury hotels catering for the business community often are the best option for visitors. Fitness Club Intercontinental, Nmst Curieovch 43/5 (tel: 22488 1525; website: www.ichotelsgroup.com), and Fitness Centre Hilton, Pobře~n 1, Prague 8 (tel: 22484 2375; website: www.hilton.com), both offer a good range of workout machines and are open to non-residents. Rates generally start at around Kč70 per day.

Golf: The Czech Republic is poorly lacking in golf courses and Prague’s only 18-hole course is members only, although top hotels may be able to arrange access, if given enough advance warning. Golf Club Prague, Plzesk, Prague 5 (tel: 25721 5185), is a nine-hole course and driving range, with green fees of approximately Kč230 per round.

Ice Skating: Skating is an extremely popular sport, however, rinks are only open for one or two-hour periods, usually at weekends. Good rinks include Sportovn hala (HC Sparta), Za elektrrnou 419, Prague 7 (tel: (2) 7292 8273), and Vokovice, Za lny 1, Prague 6 (tel: 23535 2759). From December, outdoor skating is popular at the reservoirs at Divok `rka and Hostivař. The picturesque scenery and the many grog sellers make this an attractive activity, although hire of skates is problematic.

Squash: As this sport is growing in popularity, new squash courts appear regularly in Prague, however, demand still outstrips supply and courts are often booked months in advance. Squashov centrum, 15 Vclavsk nmst (tel: 22400 9232), offers an unbeatable central location. The three courts are open daily until 2300 and equipment is available for hire.

Swimming: With crowds of children and high chlorine levels at the municipal pools, the smaller pools in luxury hotels are often a better option. The indoor pool at Aral, Strahov Stadion, Olympijsk, Prague 6 (tel: 23301 4113), is used by competitive swimmers and also offers sauna facilities. The pool is closed during July and August. The YMCA, Na Pořc 12 (tel: 22487 1111), also caters for serious swimmers and is open until 2200. The fee is Kč1.10 per minute. Swimming in the reservoirs outside Prague is extremely popular, although sites can be dirty and crowded.

Tennis: Outdoor courts, generally clay, cost about Kč120-200 per hour, while indoor courts can run to Kč250–550. Most courts are floodlit and open in the evening, some until 2300. Advance booking is essential. Tenisov klub Slvia Prague, Letn Park, Prague 7 (tel: (2) 3338 4033), has eight excellent floodlit clay courts, as well as fast-surface indoor courts. Booking is usually essential at the Cesk Lawn Tennis Klub, Ostrov `tranice 38, Holoaovice, Prague 7 (tel: 22232 4601; website: www.cltk.cz), with six floodlit courts. Tenis Club, Strleck Island (ostrov), also hires courts to the public.

Shopping

Shopping in Prague can be frustrating or rewarding, depending on the approach taken. Western chains and large stores around Vclavsk nmst do not offer bargains and shoppers should seek out the smaller shops to browse and patronise the cafs when it all becomes too much.

Czech crystal and glassware are superb and often extremely good value. There are enough shops for one to spend an entire day on this alone. Cheap Czech crystal jewellery is found throughout the city. Czech garnets are considered the world’s best. Granat, Dlouh 28, Prague 1, are the specialists. Amber (jantar) can also be found at a bargain price, however, shoppers should stick to the Baltic variety – Russian shops sell a far more brittle and over-priced variety. Even in the markets, it is possible to find beautiful and unique wood and ceramic pieces.

The early post-Revolution days, when exquisite pieces of Art Nouveau Daum and Loetz glass or a set of duelling pistols could be purchased at one-sixth of their value, are long gone but antiques still can be good purchases. Jan Hunek Starozitnosti, Pař~sk 1, Prague 1, sells beautiful Czech glass from the 18th century to 1930s Art Deco. Alma, Vamentinsk 7, Prague 1, specialises in porcelain, lace and folk costumes. Away from the centre, Bazars (glorified junk shops) occasionally turn up real finds. Time is needed for one to search them out but the rewards can be worthwhile. Antiquarian books and prints remain good buys but prices are rising. Antikvarit Galerie Mstek, 28 Řjna 13/Nrodn 40, Prague 1, and Antikvarit Karel Krenek, Celetn 31, Prague 1, both offer an excellent selection. Antikvarit Pař~ska, Pař~ska 8, Prague 1, specialises in prints and maps from the 16th to 19th centuries. Classical music CDs are often very low in price. The best selections are at Bonton Megastore, Palc Koruna, Vclavsk nmst 1, Prague 1, and Bontonland (Supraphon), Jungmannova 20, Prague 1. Supraphon, the privatised state recording company, draws on a wealth of stunning Czech music in its archives (website: www.supraphon.cz).

Shop opening hours vary widely but are generally Monday to Friday 0800-1000 and 1700-2000 and Saturday 1000-1400. Many tourist shops and larger stores remain open all day including Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Most areas of the city have at least one 24-hour food shop. Almost everything closes on public holidays.

Most markets only sell food and their hours generally correspond to standard shopping hours. The best markets for crafts, hand embroidery, leather goods and charming wooden toys are Havelsk, Prague 1, and the craft stalls in Staromstsk nmst. Christmas Markets throughout December are excellent for gifts but visitors should beware of the professional pickpockets and the strength of the hot grog.

VAT stands at 22% for most products and services. Goods must be removed from the Czech Republic within 30 days of purchase, in order for visitors to claim a tax refund. Bills must be confirmed at the border or at the Duty Free Tax desk of the Customs Office in the Departure Hall (Terminal North) of Ryzyne airport upon departure. Actual VAT refunds must be realised by Global Refund at the Thomas Cook cash desk or the Czech Made Products shop in Finger A, or VAT MAX at the transfer desk of Menzies Aviations Group. In Terminal South, actual VAT is refunded in the transit space in Free Shop by Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com).

Culture

Prague is alive with culture at all levels, from buskers wafting the tourists across Charles Bridge with a whirl of the violin through to full blown classical performances by world-renowned ensembles in some of Europe’s most spectacular venues. Music has always been regarded as an important part of education, both through the schools and through town musicians, whose jobs included teaching as well as performing. From its formation in the late 18th century, the Prague Conservatoire has been a world-class training ground for musicians and composers. In the 1780s, Dr Charles Burney described Bohemia as ‘a nation of musicians’ adding: ‘It is said by travellers, that the Bohemian nobility keep musicians in their houses; but in keeping servants it is impossible to do otherwise.’ Behind the big four Czech composers (Smetana, Dvořk, Jnacek and Martin) lie literally hundreds of others, whose talents ranged from good to near great. Virtuoso instrumentalists and conductors have always been manifold. Surprisingly few were actually born in Prague, but almost all of them were residents at one time or another.

With the eclipse of Prague by Vienna, under the Hapsburgs, attention shifted from the political sphere to the artistic. Mozart was more highly regarded in Prague than he was in Vienna and every famous composer and virtuoso was welcomed with open arms, with conductors of the Prague opera including Weber, Mahler and Zemlinsk. One of the downsides of the fall of Communism was the substantial cutback of state funding and the entire arts scene is experiencing financial difficulties in the shift to a market economy. Artists are still regarded as respected members of the community and every possible effort is made to further their careers. Performance standards have, if anything, risen still higher.

Prague is unquestionably a musical city. Prague Spring Festival is one of the major world-class festivals but concerts abound throughout the year. And this is not the end of the matter – buskers are found everywhere and the streets, squares and bridges echo to everything from talented students from the Conservatoire, to Dixieland jazz, folk and world music and pop.

Tickets can be purchased at Cedok (see Tourist Information) and Ticketpro, Rytřsk 31, Prague 1 (tel: 29632 9999; e-mail: ticket@ticketpro.cz; website: www.ticketpro.cz). Ticketpro accepts credit cards but does not book for the bigger classical venues. Bohemia Ticket International (BTI), Na přikop 16, Prague 1, is the only ticket agency that will accept ticket purchases from abroad (tel: (2) 2422 7832; e-mail: order@bohemiaticket.cz; website: www.ticketsbti.cz), although those who choose to do this can expect a substantial booking fee. Ticket agencies tend to mark up ticket prices, especially for foreigners. Purchasing tickets from the relevant box office usually saves quite a bit of money. Unsold tickets costing more than Kč30 can often be purchased 30 minutes before performances. This is especially good value at the National Theatre. Visitors should purchase Spring Festival tickets from the festival office to avoid the hefty mark up.

Weekly listings for all musical events can be found in The Prague Post (website: www.praguepost.cz) and fortnightly in The Prague Pill (website: http://prague.tv/pill/). Do Msta gives monthly cultural listings in Czech.

Music: Prague boasts two world-class orchestras. The Czech Philharmonic (tel: (tickets) 22705 9227; website: www.ceskafilharmonie.cz) is based at the neo-classical Rudolfinum, Alaovo nbře~ 12, Prague 1 (tel: (2) 2489 3111). The Prague Symphony Orchestra (tel: (tickets) 22200 2336; website: www.fok.cz) has now returned to its restored home at the Smetana Hall of the Obecn Dm, Nmst Republiky 5, Prague 1 (tel: 22200 2101; fax: 22200 2100; e-mail: info@obecni-dum.cz; website: www.obecni-dum.cz). Various other orchestras also turn in high-quality performances and important venues for chamber music concerts include the Church of St Nicolas (Kostel sv Mikulse), Staromstsk nmst, Prague 1, the Nostic Palace, Maltzsk nmst 1, Prague 1 (tel: 22451 0131), St Agnes’ Convent (Klater sv. Ane~ky cesk), U milosrdnch 17, Prague 1 (tel: 22481 0835), and the exquisite Baroque Chapel of Mirrors (Zrcadlov kaple of the Klementinum), Marinsk nmst, Prague 1 (tel: 22166 3111 ext. 331).

The standard opera repertoire is offered at the State Opera, Legerova 75, Prague 2 (tel: 22422 7266; website: www.sop.cz). The Estates Theatre, Ovocn trh, Prague 1 (tel: 22422 7981; website: www.estatestheatre.cz), where Don Giovanni was first performed, still presents occasional Mozart operas. Czech repertoire is principally presented at the National Theatre (Nrodn Divadlo), Nrodn 2, Prague 1 (tel: 22490 1111 or 22490 1668; website: www.nationaltheatre.cz). Performances here tend to be more innovative and ticket prices are lower.

Unusual music shows are presented in the summer at the Kři~kova Fontana (Krizik’s Fountain), in Luna Park, Prague 7, with shows linking music, lights, fountains and water features.

Theatre: Misery Loves Company, Celetn 17, Prague 1 (tel: 22480 9168), presents consistently high-quality productions of international plays and Czech works in English translations. They are active in the summer at the reconstructed Globe Theatre, Vstaviat, Holoaovice, Prague 7 (tel: 22271 1515).

There are currently several companies presenting shows combining music, dance and 3D effects with black (ultraviolet) light features, known as Black Light Theatre. Performances run from classical to rock and all the companies are excellent. They include The Black Light Theatre, Jiř Grossmann Theatre, Vclavsk nmst 43 (tel: 22421 9812; e-mail: tickets@wow-show.com; website: www.wow-show.com), The Black Theatre Prague, Na přikop 10 (tel: 22224 4358; e-mail: black.theatre@volny.cz; website: www.volny.cz/black.theatre), Image, Image Theatre, Pař~sk 4, Prague 1 (tel: 22231 4448), Black Light Theatre of Frantisek Kratochvl, Nrodn 25, Prague 1 (tel: 22108 5287), Ta Fantastika, Palc Unitaria, Karlova 8, Prague 1 (tel: 22222 1367), and The Black Light Theatre of Prague of Jiř Srnec, Divadlo Reduta, Nrodn třda 20, Prague 1 (tel: 22493 3487).

Dance: Classical ballet is prevalent at the major theatres but modern dance companies, with their experimental and multimedia techniques, offer a far more exciting evening. Ponec, Husitsk 24A, Prague 3 (tel: 22272 1531; e-mail: divadlo@divadloponec.cz; website: www.divadloponec.cz), a new performance space owned by the dance company, Tanec Praha (website: www.tanecpha.cz), presents a constantly varied and challenging programme of Czech and international companies. Folklore shows combining energetic dancing and music with colourful costumes have not lost their exuberance or high standards under the demands of tourists. Restaurace U Marcanu, Veleslannsk 14, Prague 6 (tel: 23536 0623), offers a year-round show with a traditional Czech dinner for a reasonable fixed price. Excellent summer shows are presented at the theatres Divadlo na Klrove, Nbre~ Edvarda Beneae 3, Prague 1 (tel: 22171 1611), and Divadlo u hasicu, Řmsk 45, Prague 2 (tel: 22422 7693).

Film: The majority of foreign films in Prague are screened in their original language – subtitled films are billed as titulek and films dubbed into Czech are dabovat. The best cinema for feature films, as well as experimental and late-night programmes, is 64 U Hradeb, Mosteck 21, Prague 1 (tel: 25753 1158). Lucerna, Vodickova 36 (tel: 22421 6972; website: www.lucerna.cz) for all its faded glory, remains an atmospheric Art Deco movie palace. Cinema Broadway, Na přikop 31, Prague 1 (tel: 22161 3278), is the best venue for epic films. MAT Studio at Karlovo nmst 19, Prague 1 (tel: 22491 5765), shows Czech films with English subtitles at 2200 – with a capacity of 24, advance purchase of tickets is essential.

South of Smchov is the Barrandov Studio. Built by Vclav Havel’s grandfather, after World War I, it soon became the centre of the Czech film industry. Czech directors, camera operators and technicians were soon in demand across Europe. The earliest important silent films set in Prague, however, were German. Paul Wegener’s The Golem (1920) vividly brought to life the medieval legend of the Jewish clay automaton (with studio expressionist sets that recreated the claustrophobic ghetto) and Henrik Galeen’s The Student of Prague (1926), a tale of the Doppelgnger (evil double) recreated the early 19th-century city. Gustave Machat’s Erotikon (1929) reveals Art Deco Prague in all its glory, while his Extase (1933), winner at the Venice Biennial in 1934, created a sensation with its daring nude scene by Austrian actress Hedy Kiesler (later, in Hollywood, Hedy Lamarr). Czech animation came to prominence in the 1930s and remains influential in the genre.

The implementation of Stalinist doctrine under the Communists largely isolated the industry from the West. However, innovations were still possible and in 1947, Jiř Trnka created the first puppet film, establishing a new genre that helped maintain a Czech presence in world cinema. The 1950s also saw the training of a new generation of filmmakers who, with the relaxation of restrictions in the 1960s, gave rise to the superb Czech New Wave. The finest films of this period were undoubtedly Closely Observed Trains (1966) and The Shop on Main Street (1965). Since the Velvet Revolution, Czech filmmakers seem to have lost their way, remaining in awe of the New Wave and attempting to maintain an identity in the wake of the influx of Hollywood values. Ironically, those values that threaten to swamp Czech films have also served to revive the industry – low costs and quality technicians have made Prague a major location for filming. Amadeus (1984), Mission Impossible (1996), Les Miserables (1998), From Hell (2001) and Frankenstein (2003) are just a few of the feature films filmed there.

Cultural Events: The Czechs have always been known for their musical ability, as well as their love of music. One of the world’s largest festivals, now entering its 60th year, the Prague Spring International Music Festival (website: www.festival.cz) continues this fine musical tradition. Every year, the festival starts on 12 May (the day Smetana died in 1884) and the opening concert always features his great cycle of symphonic poems, My Country. Prague Autumn (website: www.pragueautumn.cz), in September, is a slightly shorter and less intense music festival, which still features many Czech and international performers. Standing outside the main tourist season, it can be a slightly more relaxed event for visitors.

Literary Notes: The German poet, Edward Mrike, wrote a novella called Mozart’s Journey to Prague (1855), which is a delightful, if fanciful, account of the composer’s trip in 1787 to conduct the premiere of Don Giovanni. Jan Neruda (the ‘Czech Dickens’) provides fascinating 19th-century vignettes in Lesser Town Tales (1878), while Gustav Meyrik’s The Golem (1969) remains the classic version of the story concerning the medieval Jewish automaton. Although also Gothic in character, F Marion Crawford’s occult novel, The Witch of Prague (1891), provides a wealth of description of the city in the late 1880s. Prague’s most famous writer, Franz Kafka, generally took a more jaundiced view of the city, filtered through the bewildering and menacing absurdities of Hapsburg bureaucracy. His masterpieces include The Trial (1925), The Castle (1926) and The Transformation and Other Stories (1915). Just as Kafka has spawned an industry of souvenirs, so too has the anti-hero of Jaroslav Hasek’s comic masterpiece of World War I, The Good Soldier Svejk (1921). Karel Capek’s anti-utopian play, R.U.R. (1921), added the word ‘robot’ to the international vocabulary. Bohumil Hrabal’s deservedly famous Closely Observed Trains (1965) offers a thoroughly unromantic picture of the final days of World War II. For the Stalinist period, Milan Kundera’s The Joke (1967) is a far superior work to his better known The Unbearable Lightness of Being (1984). Since the Velvet Revolution, literature (often experimental) has flourished in the Czech Republic. Michael Viewegh’s Bringing Up Girls in Bohemia (1994) offers a wry look at rampant capitalism and sex in modern suburban Prague. Peter Demetz’s Prague in Black and Gold: The History of a City (1998) is richly textured historical work that delves beneath the smooth tourist veneer of the city today to vividly reveal more barbarous and brutal times.

Nightlife

In the 1990s, Prague’s post-communist nightlife was justifiably famed with grunge-chic firmly en vogue. These days the Czech capital has developed a more sophisticated scene that still does have avant garde clubs with a distinctly East Berlin buzz, but is also has slick cocktail bars, sumptuous whisky lounges and trendy DJ-bars, all weaving into an eclectic and enticing mix. Venues shift in and out of popularity with great rapidity in Prague. There are still many options in the city centre, but some of the more interesting new places have moved out in search of cheaper venues to suburbs like }i~kov. Establishments tend to be divided to meet the demands of three groups – expensive (for the newly wealthy Czechs and tourists), cheap and trashy (for the young tourists, backpackers and ex-pats) and cheap and innovative (for young Czechs and visitors in the know). Many bars are open late (until 0200 or 0400) and clubs even later (until 0500, 0600 or even later).

In the Czech Republic, however classy, ‘nightclubs’ means a table dancing club, usually with a proper strip show and often even with a sauna and Jacuzzi. Clubs that feature live music are generally known as ‘music clubs’ or ‘jazz clubs’, while establishments that offer dancing are known as ‘discos’ or ‘dance clubs’.

Dress codes and admission prices do not feature strongly in Prague’s nightlife. The minimum drinking age in the Czech Republic is 18 years and drinks are inexpensive at Kč30 for half a litre of beer or Kč70-100 for imported beers and Kč15-60 for spirits (depending on the drink – vodka is cheaper than whisky, for instance).

Weekly listing (in English) of music events can be found in the Prague Post (website: www.praguepost.cz) and the racier fortnightly Prague Pill (website: http://prague.tv/pill/). In Your Pocket is an excellent English language monthly listings guide. Do msta gives monthly nightlife listings in Czech.

Bars: The nefarious bars of the ex-pat nightlife haven around the infamous Marquis de Sade, Templova 18, are still very popular with tourists and ex-pats as well as Czechs wanting to meet them. Just around the corner Radegast, Templova 2, is a world away, an old beer hall living in a time warp with smoke stained walls and very cheap beer. Irish bars and British theme pubs are currently all the rage and can be found throughout the Old Town, but more traditional options include Zhlato Tygra, Husova 17, a tiny bar where Vaclav Havel took Bill Clinton for a beer when he was in town. The uber trendy suburb of }i~kov is where the local cognoscenti tend to hang out these days. Some worthwhile bars out here include Hapu, Orlicka 8, a friendly and intimate bar run by a couple expert in mixing generous cocktails and U Sadu, Skroupovo nměsti, a more traditional style Czech beer hall that is popular with students.

Casinos: Gambling plays an important part in the lives of many Czechs and is big business in Prague, with new casinos opening all the time. Most casinos present a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere, with bets ranging from a minimum Kč20-25 to a maximum of Kč5,000 (in a few cases like the Jalta, Kč10,000). The minimum age for gaming is 18 years and a passport or ID is required. Entrance fees are as high as Kč500 in some establishments. Casinos can be found in many of the luxury hotels, where evening dress is essential for admission.

Most of the best casinos are found on Na přikop and Vclavsk nmst. Recommended venues include Casino Admiral Praha, Palace of Culture, 5 Kvetna 65, Prague 4, the 24-hour Casino Jalta Happy Days, Vclavsk nmst 35, Prague 1, the VIP Club Casino, Hotel Ambassador, Vclavsk nmst 7, Prague 1, and Casino Palais Savarin, Na přikop 10.

Clubs: Prague has more than its fair share of trashy discos, but a welcome alternative is the world music that continues to attract great attention in both clubs and live venues in the city. For a myriad of styles, everything from world music through to rock, try Akropolis, Kubelkova 27, Prague 3 (website: www.palacakropolis.cz), a complex of concert spaces, bars and a caf in }i~kov. Latino clubs include La Habana, Maesk 12, Prague 1, and Mnes, Masarykovo nbře~i 250, Prague 1, a 1930s functionalist gallery, which is only open on Friday and Saturday. Roxy, Dlouh 33, Prague 1, caters to the dance crowd and features a hidden tea house. Radost/FX, Blehradsk 120, Prague 2 (website: www.radostfx.cz), is one of the few clubs to survive the early post-Revolution period and offers up a glamorous mix of house and techno music with big name guests DJs, though the dance floor is disappointingly small. It also includes a vegetarian restaurant and art gallery. Industry 55, Vinohradsk 40, Prague 2, stays open very late for a youngish crowd, playing techno, house, trance and other dance music. Klub Lvka, Novotnho Lvka (by the Charles Bridge), is a popular top-40 club with good food, a wonderful riverside terrace and a tendency to put on strippers. Karlove Lzn, also located at Novotnho Lvka, claims to be the largest club in central Europe. The four floors all feature different music styles, with synth techno on the fourth floor, retro on the third, radio pop occupying the second and hip hop and funk blasting out on the first floor, complete with MCM caf. There is also a chill-out area with big bean bags and sofas.

Live Music: For Czech folk music, see the Music section in Culture. Otherwise, Malostransk Beseda, Malostransk nmst, Prague 1, features everything from 1920s jazz to contemporary rock. The Lucerna Music Bar, Vodickova 36, Prague 1 (website: www.musicbar.cz), serves up a rich blend of excellent jazz, rock and 1980s nights, with plenty of space to dance. Jazz has been popular in Prague since the 1920s and even though the scene has contracted with the growth of rock music, there are still excellent venues for an evening of jazz and blues. AghaRTA, Krakovsk 5, Prague 1, is undoubtedly the city’s best venue (website: www.agharta.net). The Jazz & Blues Caf, Na přikop 23, Prague 1, has good programming and sound reproduction that more than make up for the terrible decor. The best local musicians often meet up for late-night jam sessions at U Star Pan, Michalsk 9, Prague 1. U Malho Glen, Karmelitsk 23, Prague 1, is one of the oldest jazz bars in Mal Strana, with good food and a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. Reduta, Nrodn třda 20, Prague 1, remains infamous as the club where President Clinton attempted to establish a cool image by playing the sax for President Havel, but is very touristy.

The image of the cowboy has been inexplicably popular in the Czech Republic since the 1920s. Prvn Prag Country Saloon Amerika, Korunn 101, Prague 3, is only open until 2300 but can provide a wild evening of country and western music – dress the part and mosey on down.

City Statistics

Location: Banks of the Vltava, Bohemia, Czech Republic, Central Europe.
Country dialling code: 420. Prague’s phone numbers were digitised in 2002 with the old (02) prefix being replaced by a single (2).
Population: 1.23 million.
Ethnic mix: 94.4% Czech, 3% Slovakian, 0.6% Polish, 0.5% German, 0.3% Roma (gypsy), 0.2% Hungarian, 1% other (of which the largest groups are Russian and Vietnamese).
Religion: 39.8% atheist, 39.2% Roman Catholic, 4.6% Protestant, 3% Orthodox, 13.4% other.
Time zone: GMT + 1.
Electricity: 220-230 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard; converters are hard to find.
Average January temp: - 1C (30F).
Average July temp: 19C (62.6F).
Annual rainfall: 67mm (2.64 inches).

Special Events

Ball (Ples) Season, Jan-Mar/Apr (the beginning of Lent), various venues
Witches’ Night, 30 Apr, celebrates the death of winter with bonfires, throughout the city
Prague Spring (website: www.festival.cz), 12 May-early Jun, various venues
Khamoro, Festival of Roma (gypsy) culture, with music, films, theatre, dance, art (website: www.khamoro.cz), late May, various venues
Dance Prague (website: www.tanecpha.cz), Jun, various venues
Prague Autumn (website: www.pragueautumn.cz), mid-Sep, various venues
Burck Season, late Sep-early Oct, sampling the half-fermented new season wines directly from the barrels
Vokaliza International Jazz Festival, late Oct, Lucerna Music Bar
Musica Iudaica, festival celebrating Jewish composers, Nov, various venues
Prague German-Language Theatre Festival (website: www.theater.cz), Nov, various venues
International Festival of Advent and Christmas Music (website: www.orfea.cz), late Nov-early Dec, various venues, with a final concert of all choirs in the Old Town Square
St Nicholas’s Eve, 5 Dec, men dress as St Nicholas, an angel and a devil, giving out sweets to good children, near Charles Bridge, Staromstsk nmst and Karlovo nmst
Bohuslav Martinu Festival, music festival featuring the music of this 20th-century Czech composer, including a violin and violoncello competition, as well as concerts of chamber, symphonic and dramatic music (website: www.martinu.cz), early Dec, Lichtenstein Palace and the Ruldophinum
Prague Christmas, festival of carols and customs, mid-Dec, various venues including concerts in the Old Town Square
St Sylvester’s Eve, 31 Dec, wild revelry complete with fireworks, especially around Vclavsk nmst and the Old Town Square

Cost of Living

Half-litre bottle of mineral water: Kc9.50
33cl bottle of beer: Kc20
Financial Times newspaper: Kc100
36-exposure colour film: Kc 160
City-centre bus ticket: Kc 8
Adult football ticket: Kc 50-200 (league matches), Kc 100-700 (European matches)
Three-course meal with wine/beer: Kc 500

10 Czech Koruna (Kc 10) = 0.23; US$0.43; C$0.54; A$0.55; 0.33
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005