World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day

Vyaehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vyaehrad, 3km (2 miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence does not bear out the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that, in the 11th and 12th centuries, Vyaehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo-Gothic (1880s) church of sv Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the faade has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Vyaehrad Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics – an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvork and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vyaehrad itself, located on Neklanova and Rasnovo nbře~, are villas designed by the architect Josef Chochol, whose designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism.

Vyaehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels). Vyaehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnosti 159 (tel: 24141 0348; e-mail: info@praha-vysehrad.cz; website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz), provides further information.

Troja (Trojsk Zmek): Prague’s only chateau, Troja (tel: 28385 1614), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich Baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I’s victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May to October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Ndra~ Holeaovice or a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700 (November to March). Admission is Kč100 (free on the first Tuesday of the month).

Prague Zoo near Troja (tel: 29611 2230; website: www.zoopraha.cz) is getting back to its feet after its closure in the aftermath of the flood at the end of August 2002. Visitors should check in advance before planning a trip there.

For a Whole Day

Kutn Hora: Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutn Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century, as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boom town economy developed and, until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent-like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners’ guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrdek in Barborsk Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines (protective clothing is supplied).

Kutn Hora’s main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec – linked to Prague by trains from Hlavn ndra~ or fast trains from Masasykov ndra~, on Wilsonova at the eastern end of Hybernsk (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Visitors must change to the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from Prague, which leaves from outside metro }elivskho.

Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located 3km (2 miles) northeast of the Kutn Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary (kostnice) on Zmeck. Part of the Cistercian Abbey complex (now the largest tobacco factory in Central Europe) the graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindřich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The noble Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870, they commissioned a local woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed. Visitors can reach the monastery with the ossuary by bus 1 or 4 from the town centre. Kutn Hora has a particularly good selection of pictorial signs pointing to all the sights.

The Tourist Information Office, Palackho nmst 377 (tel: 32751 2378; website: www.kutnahora.cz), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutn Hora, Sankturin House, Palackho nmst 377 (tel: 32751 5556; fax: 32751 2378; e-mail: infocentrum@kutnohorsko.cz; website: www.kutnohorsko.cz) provide further information. Barborsk Czech Silver Museum (tel: 32751 2159; website: www.cms-kh.cz)

Cesky Krumlov: This idyllic Bohemian town stakes a fair claim to being the most attractive in the country. UNESCO rated it so highly that it featured second in importance on their World Heritage list behind Venice and with good reason. Cesky Krumlov was badly damaged by the floods a few years ago, but it is now largely back to its best. This sleepy town curls around the Vltava river in a swish of churches, old town houses and a charming picture postcard perfect castle, which hangs high above the scene.

The compact old town is every bit as appealing as any part of Prague with plenty of cosy cafes and bars where visitors can relax for a while. Other attractions include visiting the one of the largest castle complexes in the country, once home to the mighty Rozemberk dynasty. Its pastel pink tower brings a touch of drama to the rather more austere faade and regular tours run around the interior. Tours also explore the local Eggenberg Brewery, which the brewery produces to really put the place on the map for most Czechs. There is little else to do, which is part of the charm, bar lazing by the river, or taking a boat out and idling beneath the ramparts of that dramatic castle. The town comes alive with the Cesky Krumlov International Music Festival in July/August.

Regular trains leave from Prague’s main station and there are also bus services from the Czech capital. Note that walking from the train station is quite a trawl into the Old Town. The Tourist Information Office, Namesti Svornosti 1 (tel: 38070 4621; website: www.ckrumlov.cz) have plenty of information on Cesky Krumlov and they can also book canoe and boat trips on the Vltava.