World City Guide

Key Attractions

Karluv Most (Charles Bridge)
The construction of Prague’s most famous and most photographed location was begun in 1357, as part of Charles IV’s monumental building programme that included the Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the University. All were supervised by the Swabian architect Peter Parler (although the bridge construction is now known to have been begun by Master Otto). The bridge replaced the earlier Judita (Judith) bridge, the only surviving remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Mal Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation), which flank the bridge, that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these (the Crucifixion) was erected in 1657, followed soon after by the only bronze statue, that of St John of Nepomuk (who was martyred after being thrown from the bridge). Most of the other statues of the saints (carved from local sandstone by Josef Brokof and Matthias Braun) were added between 1706 and 1714 (the latest was not added until 1928). Due to pollution, most have been replaced and the originals are housed in the Lapidarium in Letn Park. Many tourists wonder about the wooden constructions at the base of the pilings on the upriver side – these protect against ice floes and logjams during the spring melt-off.

The fully pedestrianised bridge serves as a focal point for tourists. There are stalls of various artists and craftspeople lining the bridge, while buskers of all descriptions (from Dixieland jazz bands to puppeteers) provide a constant source of entertainment and often congestion. Strolling across as the sun comes down while a young violinist wafts music across the Vltava is one of the quintessential Prague experiences.

Star Město(Old Town)
Transport: Metro Staromestsk; tram 17, 18, 51 or 54.

Pra~sk Hrad (Prague Castle)
From almost any part of Prague, the Castle, perched on the ridge in Hradčany, dominates the skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex (with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right) is most striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible to see everything in a single day.

Katedrla sv Vta (St Vitus Cathedral), the country’s largest church, takes up most of the third courtyard. Inspired by the Gothic cathedral at Narbonne, work commenced in 1344, but, reflecting the changing fortunes of the Czechs, was not completed until 1929. The finest of the 22 side chapels is that built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas – the gilded walls are inlaid with hundreds of semi-precious stones that frame the luminous 14th-century paintings. The overly ornate Baroque tomb of St John of Nepomuk was the work of the Jesuits intent on promoting this martyr as the Czech patron saint in opposition to Wenceslas. The Coronation Chamber displays the Bohemian crown jewels, but is only infrequently open to the public. The Crypt is the resting place of most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia. Bazilika sv Jiř (St George’s Basilica) is a marvel of Romanesque architecture. Founded in 970, it was rebuilt in the 12th century and acquired its present Baroque faade in the 16th century. The chapel dedicated to Saint Ludmilla, the first Czech martyr, is particularly fine. Klster sv Jiř (St George’s Convent), the oldest monastery in the country, was founded in 973 for Benedictine nuns. It now houses a remarkable collection of early Czech art, from the Gothic to Baroque periods.

In the Castle Gardens, the Belvedere is Prague’s finest Renaissance building. Built in the 1530s as a summerhouse for Queen Anne, it now houses a changing programme of exhibitions. Zlat Ulicka (Golden Lane), with its 16th-century houses built into the fortifications, derives its name from being the residences of the court alchemists.

Hradcansk nmst, Prague 1
Tel: 22437 3368.
E-mail: jaromir.potucek@hrad.cz (tickets and tours) or frantisek.kadlec@hrad.cz (information centre)
Website: www.hrad.cz
Transport: Tram 22 to Pra~sk hrad; metro to Hradcansk.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); daily 0900-1600 (Nov-May).
Admission: Kč220 (castle); free (grounds).

Staromstsk Nmst (Old Town Square)
The 12th-century Old Town Square is the focal point for tourists. Stalls selling crafts line the perimeter and horse-drawn carriages await those wishing to take a tour of the historic centre. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city’s largest Christmas Market. The centre is dominated by the monumental memorial to the 14th-century religious reformer, Jan Hus. The Prague Meridian is also found here, designating kilometre zero, from which all distances in the city are measured. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest. The Gothic Staromestsk Radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion (dating to the early 15th century) reveals the Apostles at two windows. Beware the pickpockets who flock to the chimes as eagerly as the tourists. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb Gothic Chrm Matky Bo~ Před Tnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer, Tycho Brahe, is found.

Star Mĕsto (Old Town)
Transport: Metro Staromestsk; tram 17 or 18.

Josefov (Jewish Quarter)
Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. Much of the area was cleared to make way for Art Nouveau buildings, but some of the flavour still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum, allows admission to the }idovnick Radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, the Maisel, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery (in use from the 15th century until 1787) and the Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovon Synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), the oldest synagogue in Europe

Star Mĕsto
Transport: Metro Staromstsk.

Jewish Museum
U Star akoly 1, Prague 1
Tel: 22481 9456 or 22231 7191 (ticket reservations). Fax: 22481 9458 or 22231 7181 (ticket reservations).
E-mail: reservacni.centrum@jewishmuseum.cz
Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1630 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: Kč490 (Jewish Museum sites); Kč (Jewish Museum only); Kč200 (Old-New Synagogue).

Obecn Dm (Municipal House)
The gem of Art Nouveau in Prague, Obecn Dm, has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by A Balsnek and Osvald Polvka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction (1905-10). However, even Karel Spillar’s striking mosaic and the sculptural group by Ladislav `aloun cannot prepare the visitor for the remarkable interiors. Most spectacular of the public areas, the Lord Mayor’s Room features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, caf and the Amerikansk bar were also the work of Polvka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public.

Nmst Republiky 5, Prague 1
Tel: 22200 2101. Fax: 22200 2100.
E-mail: info@obecnidum.cz
Website: www.obecnidum.cz
Transport: Metro Nmest Republiky; tram 5, 14 or 24.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (exhibition hall); daily 0730-2300 (caf).
Admission: Free; Kč150 (guided tours, booking essential); approximately Kč60-100 (separate exhibitions).

Vclavsk Nmest (Wenceslas Square)
Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989, that the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague – from the fashionable and expensive stores to the prostitutes and taxis controlled by organised crime rings. Nothing remains of the square’s earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague’s largest stores – often of more interest for their architecture than for their contents. News kiosks at the bottom end are the best place to purchase Czech and foreign-language newspapers. There are numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s) leading to or surrounding a cinema (in almost all instances) - many are now being renovated to their original Art Deco splendour, chiefly to house trendy shops. The Lucerna (see Live music in Nightlife) is undoubtedly the finest of these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, excellent caf and numerous small shops.

Situated on the opposite side of Wenceslas Square, at number 25, the Grand Hotel Evropa (website: www.motylek.com/evropa), is a major landmark of the First Republic. The Evropa’s time has not yet returned and service is still reminiscent of the Communist period. Its faded splendour is best enjoyed briefly over coffee or tea. The focal point of the upper end of the square is JV Myslbek’s monumental bronze equestrian statue of the Pomnk sv Vclav (St Wenceslas Memorial). The four surrounding statues are of national patron saints – Ludmilla, Procopius, Agnes and Vojtech (Adalbert).

At the top of the square stands the Nrodn Muzeum (National Museum). Founded in 1818, this houses the country’s oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections (dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology) are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. Built in the neo-Renaissance style, the faade and interior decorations form a striking celebration of the history of the former Czechoslovakia.

Nov Město(New Town)
Transport: Metro Mstek (bottom) or Muzeum (top).

Nrodn muzeum (National Museum)
Vclavsk 68, Prague 1
Tel: 22449 7111. Fax: 22224 6047.
Website: www.nm.cz/english
Transport: Metro Muzeum.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr); closed first Tues of the month.
Admission: Kč100; concessions available; free first Mon of month.