World City Guide

Nightlife

In the 1990s, Prague’s post-communist nightlife was justifiably famed with grunge-chic firmly en vogue. These days the Czech capital has developed a more sophisticated scene that still does have avant garde clubs with a distinctly East Berlin buzz, but is also has slick cocktail bars, sumptuous whisky lounges and trendy DJ-bars, all weaving into an eclectic and enticing mix. Venues shift in and out of popularity with great rapidity in Prague. There are still many options in the city centre, but some of the more interesting new places have moved out in search of cheaper venues to suburbs like }i~kov. Establishments tend to be divided to meet the demands of three groups – expensive (for the newly wealthy Czechs and tourists), cheap and trashy (for the young tourists, backpackers and ex-pats) and cheap and innovative (for young Czechs and visitors in the know). Many bars are open late (until 0200 or 0400) and clubs even later (until 0500, 0600 or even later).

In the Czech Republic, however classy, ‘nightclubs’ means a table dancing club, usually with a proper strip show and often even with a sauna and Jacuzzi. Clubs that feature live music are generally known as ‘music clubs’ or ‘jazz clubs’, while establishments that offer dancing are known as ‘discos’ or ‘dance clubs’.

Dress codes and admission prices do not feature strongly in Prague’s nightlife. The minimum drinking age in the Czech Republic is 18 years and drinks are inexpensive at Kč30 for half a litre of beer or Kč70-100 for imported beers and Kč15-60 for spirits (depending on the drink – vodka is cheaper than whisky, for instance).

Weekly listing (in English) of music events can be found in the Prague Post (website: www.praguepost.cz) and the racier fortnightly Prague Pill (website: http://prague.tv/pill/). In Your Pocket is an excellent English language monthly listings guide. Do msta gives monthly nightlife listings in Czech.

Bars: The nefarious bars of the ex-pat nightlife haven around the infamous Marquis de Sade, Templova 18, are still very popular with tourists and ex-pats as well as Czechs wanting to meet them. Just around the corner Radegast, Templova 2, is a world away, an old beer hall living in a time warp with smoke stained walls and very cheap beer. Irish bars and British theme pubs are currently all the rage and can be found throughout the Old Town, but more traditional options include Zhlato Tygra, Husova 17, a tiny bar where Vaclav Havel took Bill Clinton for a beer when he was in town. The uber trendy suburb of }i~kov is where the local cognoscenti tend to hang out these days. Some worthwhile bars out here include Hapu, Orlicka 8, a friendly and intimate bar run by a couple expert in mixing generous cocktails and U Sadu, Skroupovo nměsti, a more traditional style Czech beer hall that is popular with students.

Casinos: Gambling plays an important part in the lives of many Czechs and is big business in Prague, with new casinos opening all the time. Most casinos present a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere, with bets ranging from a minimum Kč20-25 to a maximum of Kč5,000 (in a few cases like the Jalta, Kč10,000). The minimum age for gaming is 18 years and a passport or ID is required. Entrance fees are as high as Kč500 in some establishments. Casinos can be found in many of the luxury hotels, where evening dress is essential for admission.

Most of the best casinos are found on Na přikop and Vclavsk nmst. Recommended venues include Casino Admiral Praha, Palace of Culture, 5 Kvetna 65, Prague 4, the 24-hour Casino Jalta Happy Days, Vclavsk nmst 35, Prague 1, the VIP Club Casino, Hotel Ambassador, Vclavsk nmst 7, Prague 1, and Casino Palais Savarin, Na přikop 10.

Clubs: Prague has more than its fair share of trashy discos, but a welcome alternative is the world music that continues to attract great attention in both clubs and live venues in the city. For a myriad of styles, everything from world music through to rock, try Akropolis, Kubelkova 27, Prague 3 (website: www.palacakropolis.cz), a complex of concert spaces, bars and a caf in }i~kov. Latino clubs include La Habana, Maesk 12, Prague 1, and Mnes, Masarykovo nbře~i 250, Prague 1, a 1930s functionalist gallery, which is only open on Friday and Saturday. Roxy, Dlouh 33, Prague 1, caters to the dance crowd and features a hidden tea house. Radost/FX, Blehradsk 120, Prague 2 (website: www.radostfx.cz), is one of the few clubs to survive the early post-Revolution period and offers up a glamorous mix of house and techno music with big name guests DJs, though the dance floor is disappointingly small. It also includes a vegetarian restaurant and art gallery. Industry 55, Vinohradsk 40, Prague 2, stays open very late for a youngish crowd, playing techno, house, trance and other dance music. Klub Lvka, Novotnho Lvka (by the Charles Bridge), is a popular top-40 club with good food, a wonderful riverside terrace and a tendency to put on strippers. Karlove Lzn, also located at Novotnho Lvka, claims to be the largest club in central Europe. The four floors all feature different music styles, with synth techno on the fourth floor, retro on the third, radio pop occupying the second and hip hop and funk blasting out on the first floor, complete with MCM caf. There is also a chill-out area with big bean bags and sofas.

Live Music: For Czech folk music, see the Music section in Culture. Otherwise, Malostransk Beseda, Malostransk nmst, Prague 1, features everything from 1920s jazz to contemporary rock. The Lucerna Music Bar, Vodickova 36, Prague 1 (website: www.musicbar.cz), serves up a rich blend of excellent jazz, rock and 1980s nights, with plenty of space to dance. Jazz has been popular in Prague since the 1920s and even though the scene has contracted with the growth of rock music, there are still excellent venues for an evening of jazz and blues. AghaRTA, Krakovsk 5, Prague 1, is undoubtedly the city’s best venue (website: www.agharta.net). The Jazz & Blues Caf, Na přikop 23, Prague 1, has good programming and sound reproduction that more than make up for the terrible decor. The best local musicians often meet up for late-night jam sessions at U Star Pan, Michalsk 9, Prague 1. U Malho Glen, Karmelitsk 23, Prague 1, is one of the oldest jazz bars in Mal Strana, with good food and a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. Reduta, Nrodn třda 20, Prague 1, remains infamous as the club where President Clinton attempted to establish a cool image by playing the sax for President Havel, but is very touristy.

The image of the cowboy has been inexplicably popular in the Czech Republic since the 1920s. Prvn Prag Country Saloon Amerika, Korunn 101, Prague 3, is only open until 2300 but can provide a wild evening of country and western music – dress the part and mosey on down.