World City Guide

Mini Guide of Perth

City Overview

Located in the southwest corner of the Australian continent, Perth sits elegantly on the banks of the Swan River, like a monarch surveying her realm. As the capital of the state of Western Australia, Perth’s domain is huge – the Perth metropolitan area accounts for nearly 90% of the state population. The most isolated capital city on Earth, Perth lies upon a similar latitude to Sydney but over 3400km (2110 miles) to the west – as far away as London is from Beirut. Boasting an impressive skyline, inner-city Perth seems to have been designed with people in mind. Its attractive malls and elevated walkways make it pleasant to navigate on foot. Having grown up in isolation from Melbourne and Sydney, the city has neither the pretensions nor the hustle and bustle of these eastern Australian cities. What it does have is a tangible sense of history. Many of Perth’s earliest buildings are still standing and its quiet pace of life recalls peaceful former times. But with four universities, a modern, well-designed city centre and a culturally diverse population, Perth manages to project a cosmopolitan atmosphere while at the same time being disarmingly friendly and laid-back.

The Swan River area was occupied by Australian Aborigines for at least 50,000 years prior to the arrival of British settlers, who proclaimed the new colony in June 1829, led by Captain James Stirling. With the help of convict labour – convict-built architecture can be seen all around Perth and its port of Fremantle – the colony prevailed over harsh conditions and Perth was finally declared a city in 1871. Thousands of immigrants flooded into the area during the Gold Rush of the 1850s, on their way to the rich gold fields of Kalgoorlie. Post-World War II immigration further swelled Perth’s population and today it is home to 1.4 million people. Nearly 200,000 of them are migrants from the UK – there is also a considerable number of New Zealanders, Italians, Malaysians, Indians and South Africans.

Commercially, Perth provides the distribution point for West Australia’s wheat industry, the burgeoning wine industry and the state’s vast mining operations. Tourism is booming and the city also is an education centre for a large number of students from Asia.

The long, wide streets of central Perth follow an orderly grid pattern. Perth Railway Station is located next to the major east–west avenue, Wellington Street, south of which lies the city proper, extending for five blocks down to the lake-like expanse of the Swan River. The central shopping and business areas together with historical buildings including two cathedrals, His Majesty’s Theatre and Government House, are located here. North of Wellington Street is Northbridge, home to important museums, galleries and the hub of the city’s nightlife. Perth’s location and warm and dry climate – the best of any Australian state capital, with hot summers and mild winters – favour outdoor pursuits. Inner-city parks and gardens are a delight, most notably Kings Park, which offers excellent views of the city and the river. To the east of the city lies a pleasant rural hinterland, while just minutes to the west is the Indian Ocean and long, white, sandy beaches extending for many kilometres along the ‘Sunset Coast’. A stop at nearby Fremantle, regarded the best-preserved 19th-century port in the world, is an essential part of any visit to Perth.

Getting There By Air

Perth International Airport (PER)
Tel: (08) 9478 8888. Fax: (08) 9277 7537.
Website: www.perthairport.com

Perth’s airport has two terminals – the international terminal, located 13km (eight miles) northeast of the city centre, and the domestic terminal, located ten kilometres (six miles) northeast of the city. Transfers between the two terminals are easily available. The international terminal – built in 1986 for the America’s Cup – handles between 15 and 25 flights from over 40 different airlines per day and is a major gateway to Asia, Europe, the Americas and South Africa.

Major airlines: Qantas (tel: 131 313; website: www.qantas.com.au) connects Perth to overseas destinations and all Australian state capitals, as well as Alice Springs, Townsville and Cairns. Virgin Blue (tel: 136 789; website: www.virginblue.com.au) flies from Perth to Adelaide and Melbourne, while Skywest (tel: 1300 660 088; website: www.skywest.com.au) offers flights within Western Australia to destinations including Albany, Exmouth and Kalgoorlie. Air New Zealand, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines and Thai Airways connect Perth to Asia, Europe and the Americas. South African Airways flies to Johannesburg.

Approximate flight times to Perth: From London is 17 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 25 hours; from Los Angeles is 18 hours 10 minutes; from Toronto is 24 hours and from Sydney is 4 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include foreign exchange, ATMs, restaurants, snack bars, duty-free shopping, children’s playground and smokers’ room. Avis, Budget, Thrifty, Hertz and National Car Rental all provide car hire services.

Business facilities: There is Internet access available for a cost of A$1. Qantas and Singapore Airlines offer executive lounges on the third level of the international terminal.

Arrival/departure tax: A departure tax of A$38, safety and security charge of A$3.55, Ansett charge of A$10 and passenger service charge of A$17.20 are included in air fares from Perth.

Transport to the city: The Airport City Shuttle (tel: (08) 9479 4131) meets every arrival within 30-45 minutes and operates between both domestic and international terminals and the city centre (journey time – 45-60 minutes). Tickets to the centre cost A$13 (international), A$11 (domestic) and A$7 between terminals. Fremantle Airport Shuttle services must be booked in advance (tel: (08) 9383 4115) and tickets start at A$15. Buses 37 and 39 operate between the domestic terminal and the city centre every 30 minutes on weekdays and hourly on weekends, 0600-2330. These are operated by Transperth (see Public Transport). Black & White taxis (tel: (08) 9333 3333) to the city centre cost around A$30 from the international terminal and A$25 from the domestic terminal.

Getting There By Water

Perth’s port is Fremantle (tel: (08) 9431 7878; fax: (08) 9431 7755; website: www.holiday-wa.net – tourist information), located 19km (12 miles) to the southwest of the city, a historical town and destination in its own right. Facilities include exhibition and function venues, public telephones, disabled access, VIP room, caf and parking area. The Port Authority (tel: (08) 9430 3567; website: www.fremantleports.com.au) provides details on ships calling at Fremantle.

Ferry services: Transperth (tel: (08) 9221 2722 or 136 213; fax: (08) 9320 9545; e-mail: enquiries@transperth.wa.gov.au; website: www.transperth.wa.gov.au) operates a service between Perth and South Perth, while ferries to Rottnest Island take 25 minutes – companies operating this service include Boat Torque 2000 (tel: (08) 9430 5844), Rottnest Express (tel: (08) 9335 6406) and Oceanic Cruises (tel: (08) 9430 5127). Some scenic ferry tours also operate from Fremantle (see Tours of the City) and various cruise ships also stop here.

Transport to the city: Fremantle Line trains, operated by Transperth (see Public Transport), depart regularly from Fremantle railway station (journey time – 25 minutes). Bus 105 (from Fremantle Interchange), 106 (from Queen Street at Adelaide Street) and 881 (from Fremantle Cemetery) all go to Hay Street in the city.

Getting There By Road

Traffic in Australia drives on the left side of the road and highways are numbered, although are more commonly known by name. By law, drivers and passengers must wear seatbelts or incur a fine of A$150. Unless otherwise indicated, the speed limit in Western Australia for metropolitan areas is 50kph (31mph), while on motorways the speed limit is 110kph (68mph). Speeding fines range from A$50 to A$350. The maximum legal blood to alcohol ratio for driving is 0.05%, which is enforced with random breath tests and severely punished. Driving through a red light incurs a fine of A$150.

The minimum age for driving is 16 years. Foreign driving licences are valid for up to one year – an International Driving Permit is recommended for longer visits. Insurance for temporarily imported overseas motor vehicles is generally not available, although RACWA does offer a tourist insurance policy (excluding left-hand drive vehicles). Outback Western Australia is extremely dry and hot for most of the year and drivers planning to cross desert areas are advised to take a large supply of drinking water.

The Royal Automobile Club of Western Australia – RACWA (tel: (08) 9421 4444; website: www.rac.com.au) provides further information.

Emergency breakdown service:
Royal Automobile Club 131 111

Routes to the city: The main routes into Perth are the Great Eastern Highway 94 (from Fremantle and Kalgoorlie-Boulder), Wanneroo Road (from Geraldton), the Southwestern Highway 20 (from Bunbury) and the Albany Highway 30 (from Albany). People driving direct from Adelaide, Melbourne or Sydney travel via Kalgoorie on the Great Eastern Highway.

Approximate driving times to Perth: From Geraldton – 4.5 hours; from Kalgoorlie – 6 hours; Adelaide – 24 hours; Melbourne – 31 hours; from Bunbury – 1.5 hours; from Albany – 4 hours; from Sydney – 37 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: The main coach operators are Greyhound (tel: 132 030; website: www.greyhound.com.au) and West Australian Government Railways (tel: 131 053; website: www.wagr.wa.gov.au). Destinations are varied and include Esperance, Geraldton, Mukinbudin, Albany, Bunbury and Collie. Services arrive at the East Perth Terminal, Summers Street, East Perth (tel: (08) 9326 2222). South West Coach Lines (tel: (08) 9324 2333) depart from the Perth City Busport, 3 Mounts Bay Road, to Bunbury and Margaret River.

Getting There By Rail

Great Southern Railway (tel: 132 147; website: www.gsr.com.au) and West Australian Government Railways (tel: (08) 9326 2000 or 2813; website: www.wagr.wa.gov.au) are the rail service providers operating from the main interstate/intrastate station, East Perth Railway Terminal, Summers Street, East Perth (tel: (08) 9326 2222). Facilities at the station include a caf and a newsagent. Local connections are available to the main city station, Perth Railway Station, Wellington Street (opposite Forrest Place).

WAGN trains are fast, modern and efficient, while Great Southern Railway trains offer a high standard of luxury travel (see below). There is no centralised national rail information number and visitors with rail enquiries should contact the relevant service provider or station.

Rail services: The famous Indian-Pacific, operated by Great Southern Railway (tel: 132 147; website: www.gsr.com.au), runs between Sydney and Perth via Adelaide, twice a week in each direction. The scenic journey takes 65 hours and terminates at East Perth Railway Terminal – the Gold Kangaroo Class option includes private shower facilities and meals. West Australian Government Railways (tel: (08) 9326 2000; website: www.wagr.wa.gov.au) operates trains to Kalgoorlie (journey time – 7 hours, 45 minutes) and Northam (journey time – 1 hour, 40 minutes) from East Perth Terminal, as well as Bunbury (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes) from Perth Railway Station.

Transport to the city: Local westbound trains leave from East Perth Terminal for Perth Railway Station. The city centre is a 20-minute walk away.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Perth’s integrated, efficient metropolitan public transport system is called Transperth (tel: 136 213; fax: (08) 9320 9545; e-mail: enquiries@transperth.wa.gov.au; website: www.transperth.wa.gov.au). Buses, trains and ferries display the Transperth colours and passengers can transfer between services on one ticket. Timetable and ticket information is available at the Transperth InfoCentres at Plaza Arcade, Wellington Street bus station, Perth City Busport and Perth Railway Station.

Bus services operate daily 0600-2330. Central Area Transit (CAT) buses are free and operate on three different routes around the City and Northbridge.

Transperth trains run from Perth Railway Station to Currambine in the north, Armadale in the south, Midland in the east and Fremantle in the west (weekdays 0530-2400). During summer trains run until 0300 on Friday and Saturday and in winter until 0200.

Ferries operate between the City at Barrack Street jetty across the Swan River to Mends Street jetty in South Perth. Services are between 0700 and 1915 (until 2130 on Friday and Saturday).

The fare structure for all forms of transport is based on eight zones – a two-zone ride costs A$2.90. Tickets can be purchased from the driver or coin-operated machines at train stations and ferry terminals. Prepaid and cheaper FastCards, including A$7.30 DayRider and MultiRider tickets – A$24.65 for a book of ten two-zone tickets – are available for purchase in advance from newsagents and InfoCentres.

Taxis
Reasonably priced, meter-operated taxis gather at transport terminals, taxi ranks and hotels. Taxis can also be hailed in the street. Booking by phone is possible with Black & White Taxis (tel: (08) 9333 3333) or Swan Taxis (tel: 131 330). Black & White Taxis charge an initial A$2.90 hire fee, 0600-1800 weekdays, or A$4.20 all other times, as well as a further A$1.17 per kilometre. Tipping is generally not required unless the service is exceptional, although rounding up to the nearest Dollar is always appreciated.

Limousines
Central Park Limousines (tel: (08) 9409 3660) and Executive Limousine Company (tel: (08) 9448 5135) both provide a limousine service. Hire starts at approximately A$100 per hour.

Driving in the City
Traffic moves relatively quickly in central Perth, except during very wet conditions (the rainy season is May to August), when a combination of caution and accidents slows down the traffic considerably. A traditional bottleneck – the aptly named Narrows Bridge, linking South Perth to the city – was doubled in size in mid-2000 and no longer poses a problem. The new tunnel under Northbridge, on the Graham Farmer freeway, also has significantly reduced traffic through the city.

Parking stations are marked by the CPP symbol and are located in Pier Street, Hay Street, Murray Street and Mounts Bay Road, with parking available at a cost of approximately A$4 per hour. Available at staffed car parks, the Perth Parkcard (tel: (08) 9461 3236) is an alternative to change as a means of payment at outdoor parking stations.

Car Hire
All major car hire companies have offices in Perth, including Avis, 46 Hill Street (tel: (08) 9325 7677; website: www.avis.com), and Hertz, 39 Milligan Street (tel: (08) 9321 7777; website: www.hertz.com). The minimum age for hiring a car is usually 21 years. A credit card is required, as is an International Driving Permit (in English). Rates start from A$61 per day and insurance is not included in the price of hire – this costs an extra A$83.

Bicycle Hire
Perth has many cycle routes that are fun to navigate. Bicycle helmets must be worn at all times. Providers include About Bike Hire, Carpark, Riverside Drive (tel: (08) 9221 2665), Canning Bridge Cycles, 886 Canning Highway, Applecross (tel: (08) 9364 1733), and Boat Torque 2000, Barrack Street, Pier Four (tel: (08) 9221 5844). Hire is approximately A$20 a day.

Business

Business Profile
‘Perth gets up in the morning and says: Okay, let’s do it, let’s make money, let’s get on with a load of really high-powered stuff right now!’ So wrote Ben Elton in his 1989 satirical novel, Stark, and indeed, during the late 1980s, Perth boasted more millionaires per head than any city in the world. This was largely thanks to aggressive exploitation of Western Australia’s massive resources of gold, iron ore, nickel and other minerals. But a lot has changed over the last decade. A series of financial scandals involving corporate fraud and a Royal Commission into government corruption sent some of the highest flyers to prison (Laurie Connell and Alan Bond) and others on the run (Christopher Skase). Anxious to correct its reputation as the ‘Wild West’, the Perth pendulum has now swung in the other direction, with the result being a business climate that may be too conservative for its own good.

The current outlook is, however, buoyant. Despite the October 1997 Asian stock market collapse, Perth’s head count of millionaires is still considerable, with the late 90s having seen a surge in new technology moguls, although many of these fell by the wayside in the 2000 dotcom crash. Successful companies remaining include daytraderHQ, access1 and adultshop.com. The Perth economy sits comfortably on a cushion of natural resources – some of the biggest mining and exploration companies in the world have offices in Perth, including Alcoa, BHP Billiton, Rio Tinto and Western Mining. Tourism has climbed steadily since Fremantle hosted the America’s Cup in 1987 – the city plays host to over three million visitors per year. Major corporations headquartered in Perth also include Wesfarmers, Bankwest, ERG Ltd, Chevron and Woodside. Nevertheless, the government has been criticised for not diversifying enough from the resources sector.

Western Australia still leads the nation in economic growth. In the quarter to June 2001, the area contributed 25% of Australia’s total exports, well ahead of the other states. Unemployment in Perth, standing at 7.7%, was just 1% above the national rate.

Central Perth is roughly divided into Perth, City, East Perth and Northbridge, with the main business district being Perth, particularly along Hay Street, Murray Street and St George’s Terrace. The Perth Convention & Exhibition Centre (website: www.pcecwa.com.au) is expected to be completed in 2004 and will be located in the CBD. The centre will cater for functions of up to 2500 delegates.

Business Etiquette
Businesspeople in Perth are generally less formal than in Melbourne or Sydney. Smalltalk and humour are welcome and most people prefer to be addressed by their first names from first acquaintance. However, a high standard of dress is expected – even in markedly hot weather. Perth people have a strong service ethic and ‘not a problem’ is a frequent reply to any request. Work-related socialising – in the form of picnics, barbecues or cruises – is common and alcohol will flow freely. Similarly, liquid lunches come with the territory. However, smoking in any indoor place should be stringently avoided by visitors, unless they are invited to do so. Normal business hours are weekdays 0900-1700.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Many of Perth’s tourist attractions are a fair distance from town – for instance, the beaches, the Perth Hills and Fremantle – but the inner city area is not without its charms. Remarkably clean and attractive for a modern, high-rise city, the wide, long streets of the Perth central business district boast a selection of historic buildings, museums and parks, all within a relatively compact area. A day exploring the city is made all the more pleasant by great shopping opportunities – especially in the Malls Precinct – and the number of quality restaurants and cafs, many of them with outdoor seating. Northbridge is the seat of Perth’s cultural life, while excellent shopping and dining can be enjoyed in Subiaco, to the east.

Tourist Information
Western Australian Visitors Centre
Forrest Place, corner of Wellington Street
Tel: (1300) 361 351. Fax: (08) 9481 0190.
E-mail: travel@tourism.wa.gov.au
Website: www.westernaustralia.net
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0830-1800, Fri 0830-1900, Sat 0830-1700, Sun 1000-1700 (Aug-Apr); Mon-Thurs 0830-1800, Fri 0830-1900, Sat 0830-1200 (May-Jul).

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Perth.

Key Attractions

Kings Park & Botanic Garden
Lined by gum trees, the magnificent Fraser Avenue entrance to Kings Park gives an indication of what lies ahead – splendid views of the city and the Swan River, impressive monuments and a true wilderness in the heart of the city. Covering 400 hectares (990 acres) on Mount Eliza, the park is crisscrossed by walking trails and bicycle paths (bikes are available for hire). The sombre State War Memorial commemorates Anzacs killed in World War I, with an eternal flame and engraved monument. Of particular interest is the West Australian Botanic Garden, with its collection of native flora, including 1700 varieties of wildflower. There is also a restaurant, caf, Aboriginal art gallery and children’s playgrounds. During summer, the park hosts open-air film screenings, plays and concerts. Daily guided walks depart at 1000 and 1400 from the Karri Log, on Fraser Avenue.

Kings Park Road, West Perth
Tel: (08) 9480 3600. Fax: (08) 9322 5064.
E-mail: enquiries@bgpa.wa.gov.au
Website: www.kpbg.wa.gov.au
Transport: Bus 32, 33, 72 or 103; a 15-minute walk from the city centre.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Perth Zoo
Perth’s small but popular and conveniently located zoo boasts an Australian Bushwalk – where visitors can observe native animals in their natural habitat – and African Savannah. Visitors should keep an eye out for the numbat, the marsupial that is the symbol of Western Australia. Daily keeper talks allow the public to get close to the animals.

20 Labouchere Road, South Perth
Tel: (08) 9474 3551.
E-mail: e-mail@perthzoo.wa.gov.au
Website: www.perthzoo.wa.gov.au
Transport: Bus 35, 108 or 110; ferry from Barrack Street to Mends Street.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: A$14 (concessions available).

Swan Bells
Perth’s futuristic and somewhat controversial bell tower, which opened at the end of 2000, is located at the foot of Barrack Street, on the Swan River Foreshore. Dubbed the Swan Bells, the 80m (260ft) tower houses the historic bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields – a gift to Perth from the City of London for the Australian Bicentenary in 1988. For panoramic views, visitors can ascend the tower via steps. The development also contains shops, restaurants, reception rooms and a tourist information centre.

Barrack Square
Tel: (08) 9218 8183. Fax: (08) 9325 2507.
Website: www.swanbells.com.au
Transport: Blue Cat; Ferry to Barrack Street.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1600.
Admission: A$6 (concessions available).

Art Gallery of Western Australia
Perth’s major gallery has a permanent collection of Australian and international art and one of the finest collections of Aboriginal art in the world. The gallery is also the venue for major national and international touring exhibitions. Free guided tours are held every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday – bookings are required.

Perth Cultural Centre, James Street, Northbridge
Tel: (08) 9492 6622. Fax: (08) 9492 6655.
E-mail: admin@artgallery.wa.gov.au
Website: www.artgallery.wa.gov.au
Transport: A short walk from Perth City Busport and Perth Railway Station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free; special exhibitions carry a charge.

His Majesty’s Theatre
Short-sighted policies have seen the demolition of most of Australia’s old theatres but His Majesty’s still stands in all its Edwardian glory. Arguably the most beautiful theatre in Australia, its features include ornate gilded foyers, a magnificent marble staircase and a domed, three-tiered auditorium. A venue for plays, opera, musicals and dance, the theatre is also home to a remarkable collection of performing arts memorabilia. Friends of the Theatre conduct tours from Monday to Friday, departing from the foyer.

825 Hay Street
Tel: (08) 9265 0900. Fax: (08) 9265 0945.
Website: www.hismajestystheatre.com.au
Transport: A short walk from Perth City Busport and Perth Railway Station; Red Cat.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600 (tours).
Admission: Free (tours).

Perth Mint
A well preserved remnant of the gold rush era, Perth’s 100-year-old mint offers an entertaining public tour. Visitors can see A$200,000 pure gold bars being poured and are invited to touch them. They may also mint their own personalised medallions and witness the production of gold, silver and platinum coins.

310 Hay Street, corner of Hill Street
Tel: (08) 9421 7223. Fax: (08) 9221 9804.
E-mail: pmint@global.net.au
Website: www.perthmint.com.au
Transport: Red Cat.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat and Sun 0900-1300.
Admission: A$6.60 (concessions available).

Western Australian Museum
Housed in a complex containing some of Perth’s oldest buildings, the Western Australian Museum specialises in natural history, with mammal, bird, dinosaur, marine and butterfly displays. The Aboriginal Gallery is outstanding, as is the museum’s collection of meteorites, while the 25m (82ft) skeleton of a blue whale is another highlight. A newer exhibit is Land & People – Western Australian history brought to life.

James Street Mall, Northbridge
Tel: (08) 9427 2700. Fax: (08) 9427 2882.
Website: www.museum.wa.gov.au
Transport: Blue Cat or Weekend Cat.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700.
Admission: Free.

Scitech Discovery Centre
Science meets showbiz at this glitzy attraction featuring over 160 hands-on exhibits covering such topics as electricity, magnetism and acoustics. The Mega-Morphin Heli-Sub Simulator takes visitors on a virtual flight over Perth, then dives beneath the (virtual) sea. New exhibits are introduced every six months.

Corner of Sutherland Street and Railway Parade, West Perth
Tel: (08) 9481 5789. Fax: (08) 9321 2869.
E-mail: ticketing@scitech.org.au
Website: www.scitech.org.au
Transport: City West station (Fremantle Line) or Red Cat.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: A$12 (concessions available).

AQWA – The Aquarium of Western Australia
Newly renovated, the former Underwater World boasts delightful dolphins performing three times a day for their supper. Less charming but undeniably fascinating are the sharks and crocodiles at their respective feeding times. The main aquarium’s 100m (328ft) glass tunnel – the largest in Australia – brings visitors in among schools of fish, turtles, stingrays and the formidable sharks. Sea creatures can even be touched at the interactive Discovery Pool.

Southside Drive, Hillarys Boat Harbour, Hillarys
Tel: (08) 9447 7500. Fax: (08) 9447 7856.
E-mail: bookings@aqwa.com.au
Website: www.aqwa.com.au
Transport: Joondalup Train to Warwick Interchange; bus 423 to Sorrento.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (winter); Wed 1000-2100, Thurs-Tues 1000-1700 (summer).
Admission: A$20 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Mundaring Weir
For those exploring Perth by car, this destination in the Perth Hills is both a fascinating piece of engineering history and a picturesque picnic opportunity. The weir and its pumping station were constructed in the 1890s, to supply water to the Kalgoorlie and Coolgardie goldfields – 563km (350 miles) to the east – and succeeded against all expectations. The weir and its bush-land surroundings are an impressive sight and the weir wall can be crossed on foot. A museum housed in the original pumping station honours C Y O’Connor, the visionary engineer who designed the scheme but committed suicide prior to its completion. The museum is currently open on Sunday only. But with the centenary of the O’Connor project coming up, the museum is refurbishing and will be re-launching soon. Nearby are an arts and crafts shop, the Lavender Patch tea rooms, an outdoor summer cinema and the Mundaring Weir Hotel, a delightfully rustic country pub that is as old as the weir itself.

Number One Pump Station (C Y O’Connor Museum)
Mundaring Weir Road, Mundaring
Tel: (08) 9295 2455. Fax: (08) 9295 2455.
Transport: Great Eastern Highway and Kalamunda Road to Kalamunda.
Opening hours: Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
City Walking Tours (tel: (08) 9447 9079) offer a two-hour guided tour of the city centre, taking in historic buildings such as St George’s Cathedral, Government House and London Court. The tours cost A$9 and depart from the Western Australian Visitors Centre, Forrest Place, on Tuesday and Thursday at 0930.

Bus Tours
The Perth Tram (tel: (08) 9322 2006; website: www.perthtram.com.au) is actually a bus – a wooden replica of the first trams, built in 1899, to operate in Perth. Drivers provide a full historical commentary for the 90-minute City Explorer Tour and passengers can get off and rejoin the tram later. There are stops at Kings Park, Burswood Casino, Barrack Street Jetty, Murray and Queens Streets, Hay Street and Pier Street, and Hay Street and Hill Street. The tour costs A$15 and booking is not necessary. Also offered is a one-hour Kings Park & University Tour, stopping at Fraser Avenue, Pioneer Women’s Fountain, University of Western Australia, Lakeside Picnic Area and Saw Avenue. This costs A$12 or A$25 when combined with the City Explorer Tour.

Other Tours
Captain Cook Cruises (tel: (08) 9325 3341; website: www.captaincookcruises.com.au) offers a variety of scenic ferry services between Fremantle and the city, leaving from the East Street Jetty in Fremantle or Pier Three, Barrack Square in Perth. Prices start at A$15 for a one-way trip (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes). Similar services are provided by Golden Sun Cruises (tel: (08) 9325 1616) and Oceanic Cruises (tel: (08) 9430 5127).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Fremantle: The reasons for taking the 25-minute train ride from Perth Railway Station to Fremantle are many. Visitors to Fremantle, located 19km (12 miles) to the southwest of the city, can experience convict-era architecture and museums, sample the many pubs and South Terrace cafs, or simply enjoy fish and chips near the harbour while gazing out to sea. ‘Freo’ was spruced up to welcome visitors during the 1987 America’s Cup and remains an attractive and welcoming port, while retaining a bohemian edge. Highlights include the Fremantle Markets – which bustle every Friday to Sunday, with stalls selling handicrafts, produce and antiques – and the History Museum and Arts Centre (tel: (08) 9430 7966) converted from a convict-built lunatic asylum, open Monday-Friday 1030-1630, Saturday 1300-1700 and Sunday 1000-1600, with admission by donation. The Western Australian Maritime Museum (tel: (08) 9431 8444) explains the port’s history and showcases the remnants of shipwrecks dating back to the early 17th century – including many relics of Dutch attempts at colonisation. Opening times are daily 0930-1700 and admission is by donation.

Fremantle’s numerous historic buildings, along with their surprisingly bloody pasts, are located along the Tram West (tel: (08) 9339 8719; website: www.tramswest.com.au) route. Four different narrated tours of 45-110 minutes are offered and all leave from the tourist bureau (see below). Perhaps the most fascinating – and macabre – example of Fremantle’s architecture is the Fremantle Prison (tel: (08) 9430 7177), a maximum-security facility from 1855 to 1991, now open to the public, daily 1000-1700.

The Tourist Bureau is located at Fremantle Town Hall, corner of William Street and Adelaide Street (tel: (08) 9431 7878; fax: (08) 9431 7755; website: www.holiday-wa.net).

For a Whole Day

Rottnest Island: In spite of a name that is Dutch for ‘rat’s nest’, this island is an idyllic ten-kilometre (six-mile) stretch of sandy beaches and crystal clear waters, lying approximately 20km (12 miles) west of Fremantle. The rats in question are actually quokkas – small, harmless marsupials that are nonetheless incorrigible picnic crashers (feeding them is forbidden). Swimming, snorkelling, windsurfing, skindiving, sunbathing and fishing are all enjoyed on the island. Bicycles are available for hire and are the popular mode of transport. A two-hour Bus Tour leaves from Thomson Bay three times a day in winter and six times a day in summer, exploring the island’s natural features and ignoble history as a prison for Aborigines. A light railway tour to Oliver’s Hill gun emplacement offers impressive views. Birdwatching is an especially fruitful pastime on Rottnest, with cormorants, reef heron, whimbrels, swans and ospreys among the species populating the isle’s various habitats.

Ferry services to Rottnest Island leave from Perth (Barrack Street Jetty) and Fremantle (East Street Jetty and Victoria Quay). The Rottnest Air Taxi (tel: (1800) 500 006) offers flights on demand from Jandakot Airport, 20 minutes from Perth on the Southern Freeway. The Visitor and Information Centre is located in Thomson Bay (tel: (08) 9372 9752; fax: (08) 9372 9775; website: www.rottnest.wa.gov.au).

Sport

West Australian soccer came of age in 2000, when Perth Glory (website: www.perthglory.com.au) made the National Soccer League grand final. They lost to Wooloongong but the game’s popularity had grown so much, the state government announced the construction of a dedicated soccer stadium. The more traditional sports obsession for the Westralian winter is Australian Rules Football (AFL), also known as ‘aerial ping-pong’, with local loyalties divided between the Fremantle Dockers (website: www.fremantlefc.com.au) and the West Coast Eagles (website: http://westcoasteagles.com.au). Matches are held at Subiaco Oval, Roberts Road, Subiaco (tel: (08) 9381 2187) or the WACA (see below). In summer, the sporting focus is on cricket. Western Australia competes at the national level for the Sheffield Shield. Local matches take place at the WACA (West Australian Cricket Association), Nelson Crescent, East Perth (tel: (08) 9265 7222; website: www.waca.com.au).

Tickets to AFL and cricket matches are available at the venue on the day or from Ticketmaster (tel: 136 122; website: www.ticketmaster7.com). The West Australian newspaper has match details on Fridays and Saturdays.

Fitness Centres: CBD Health Spa, 100 Murray Street (tel: (08) 9221 9900), never closes and has a huge gymnasium, fitness classes, spa, sauna and tanning facilities. Fremantle Leisure Centre, 10 Shuffley Street, Fremantle (tel: (08) 9432 9533), has complete gym facilities as well as swimming pools and a hydrotherapy pool.

Golf: Perth is a golfer’s paradise, with a plethora of world-class public courses, including Araluen Country Club, Country Club Avenue, Roleystone (tel: (08) 9397 9000; website: www.araluencc.com.au), Joondalup Country Club, Country Club Boulevard, Connolly (tel: (08) 9400 8888; website: www.joondalupresort.com.au), and Novotel Vines Resort, Verdelho Drive, The Vines (tel: (08) 9297 0222; website: www.vines.com.au). Fees for an 18-hole game are approximately A$60 Monday to Friday and A$80 Saturday and Sunday. Many private golf clubs have reciprocal playing rights with overseas and interstate clubs.

Tennis: Public tennis courts near central Perth include the Tennis Veterans Centre, 176 Fitzgerald Street, North Perth (tel: (08) 9328 8128), and the Leederville Tennis Club, Bourke Street, Leederville (tel: (08) 9481 3773). Courts cost A$11-13.50 per hour, depending on the time of day.

Watersports: Watersports are a way of life in Perth. Windsurfing on the Swan River and on Sunset Coast beaches is very popular and boards can be hired from Broadway Surf & Sail, 260-262 Railway Parade, West Leederville (tel: (08) 9381 1888; fax: (08) 9381 1866; e-mail: info@surfsailaustralia.com.au; website: www.broadwaysurf.com.au). Jetski enthusiasts can hire them at Coogee Beach Jet Ski Hire, Coogee Beach (tel: (0418) 556 589). Perth was synonymous with sailing even before hosting the America’s Cup in 1987 – Swan River catamarans can be hired from Funcats, Coode Street Jetty, South Perth (tel: (0408) 926 003), and yachts from Fremantle Yacht Charters, 7/8 Mews Road, Fremantle (tel: (08) 9335 3844). Surfing, bodysurfing and scuba diving can be enjoyed all along the Sunset Coast. For information on diving, contact the Perth Diving Academy (tel: (08) 9430 6300) or AQWA Adventures (tel: (08) 9447 7500).

Shopping

Perth’s central shopping area is bound by the Hay Street and Murray Street malls and the Forrest Chase complex. The major department stores, Myer and Aherns, arcades and duty-free shops are found here. The many jewellery stores in this precinct sell Australian gemstones, such as Argyle diamonds, Broome pearls and Kalgoorlie gold. Perhaps the most visible evidence of Perth’s anglophilia, London Court, off the Hay Street Mall, contains souvenir and jewellery shops housed in quaint, mock Elizabethan architecture. Historic King Street has designer boutiques, such as Cartier and Louis Vuitton, as well as galleries selling Aboriginal art. Shopping is also one of the main attractions of Fremantle, with plenty of bookshops, craft shops and duty-free shops in which to browse, as well as excellent weekend markets (see Excursions).

Popular Perth souvenirs include dried wildflowers, Western Australian wine and sheepskin and crocodile leather products. Perth is an ideal place to obtain authentic Aboriginal art – the best commercial showcases are Indigenart, 115 Hay Street, Subiaco (tel: (08) 9388 2899), and Creative Native, 32 King Street (tel: (08) 9322 3398).

There is an abundance of markets. The Subiaco Pavilion Markets, 2 Rokeby Road, Subiaco (tel: (08) 9382 2498), are open Thursday to Sunday, selling jewellery, pottery, giftware, clothes and art. Galleria Art & Craft Markets, Art Gallery and Museum Concourse, Perth (tel: (08) 9310 2159) are European-style markets, open 1000-1700 Saturday and Sunday.

Department stores and many other shops in Perth’s central city area are open seven days a week. Shopping hours are generally 0900-1730 Monday to Thursday, 0900-2100 Friday, 0900-1700 Saturday and 1200-1800 Sunday. In July 2000, the Australian government instituted a Goods and Services Tax of 10%. Prices include this GST. On collection of duty-free items, shoppers must show their passport and onward ticket.

Culture

The arts in Perth tend towards the conservative, except at Perth International Festival time, when the avant-garde is embraced. Nevertheless, the overall scene is healthy, with an excellent symphony orchestra, ballet company, opera company and several professional theatre troupes. There is no shortage of talent in town – the West Australian Academy of the Performing Arts (WAAPA), renowned for turning out stars of stage and screen, attracts students from all over the country. While the arts in Perth lack a visible focal point, such as Sydney’s Opera House or Brisbane’s Performing Arts Centre, the Perth Cultural Centre in Northbridge – comprising the Art Gallery, Western Australian Museum and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts – goes some way to filling the void, as does the 100-year-old architectural gem that is His Majesty’s Theatre.

Tickets to most shows are available from Ticketmaster (tel: 136 122; website: www.ticketmaster7.com). Cultural listings can be found online (website: www.xpressmag.com.au) and in the West Australian newspaper.

Music: The West Australian Opera (tel: (08) 9321 5869; website: www.waopera.asn.au) performs six to nine weeks per year at the Edwardian His Majesty’s Theatre, 825 Hay Street (tel: (08) 9265 0912; website: www.hismajestystheatre.com.au). Perth Concert Hall, 5 St George’s Terrace (tel: (08) 9484 1133; website: www.perthconcerthall.com.au), is the prime venue for classical music and also the home of the West Australian Symphony Orchestra (tel: (08) 9326 0011; website: www.waso.com.au). The hall’s acoustics have been acclaimed as the best in Australia.

Theatre: His Majesty’s Theatre (see Music above), is the elegant venue for opera, ballet, musicals and other theatrical presentations. Burswood Theatre, Burswood Casino, Great Eastern Highway (tel: (08) 9362 7777), presents big-budget musicals, such as Chicago and Fame. The Art Deco Regal Theatre, 474 Hay Street, Subiaco (tel: (08) 9484 1133), formerly a cinema, hosts bedroom-farce-style theatre. The Perth Theatre Company (tel: (08) 9325 8366; website: www.perththeatre.com.au) treads the boards at the Playhouse Theatre, 3 Pier Street (tel: (08) 9231 2377; website: www.playhousetheatre.com.au). The more cutting-edge Black Swan Theatre Company (tel: (08) 9388 9388; website: www.bstc.com.au) is based at the Subiaco Theatre Centre, 180 Hamersley Road, Subiaco (tel: (08) 9382 3385; website: www.subiacotheatrecentre.com.au). Yirra Yaakin Theatre, 65 Murray Street (tel: (08) 9202 1966; website: www.yirrayaakin.asn.au), is a leading Australian Aboriginal theatre company whose performances combine traditional dance with contemporary issue-based drama.

Dance: The West Australian Ballet (tel: (08) 9481 0707; website: www.waballet.com.au), resident at His Majesty’s Theatre (see Music above), performs a repertoire of modern dance as well as classical ballet. Buzz Dance Theatre (tel: (08) 9226 2322) is an important local modern dance company. Major Australian and international dance companies frequently tour to Perth and perform at His Majesty’s Theatre and the Burswood Theatre (see Theatre above).

Film: Mainstream movies are screened at Hoyts (tel: (1902) 263 456; website: www.hoyts.com.au) and Greater Union (tel: (1902) 263 456; website: www.greaterunion.com.au) multiplexes throughout the city. Tickets are cheaper on Tuesdays. A good budget cinema in the middle of town is the Piccadilly, Hay Street Mall (tel: (08) 9322 3577; website: www.regentcinemas.com/piccadilly). Arthouse cinema is enjoyed at Cinema Paradiso, 164 James Street, Northbridge (tel: (08) 9227 1771; website: www.lunapalace.com.au), and the Luna, 155 Oxford Street, Leederville (tel: (08) 9444 4056; website: www.lunapalace.com.au). Outdoor movies are popular during the summer months, at the Sunset Cinema in Kings Park, the Somerville Auditorium at the University of Western Australia and the Luna in the Park in Leederville.

Perth is somewhat under-represented in Australian cinema. Peter Weir’s Gallipoli (1981) and Scott Hicks’ Shine (1996) are arguably the best movies to include Perth as a setting. The modern city also appears in Bill Bennett’s Kiss or Kill (1998). Hollywood stars Heath Ledger and Frances O’Connor are originally from Perth.

Cultural events: The Perth International Arts Festival takes places every year, from mid-January to mid-February, showcasing local and international theatre, dance, film, music and visual art at venues around the city. The festival is the oldest of its kind in Australia, dating back to 1952. Further into the year, July sees National Islander Observance Committee Week, featuring exhibitions of indigenous art and traditional performances. Perth’s Pride Festival happens in September/October, with a range of gay and lesbian cultural events culminating in a street parade and dance party.

Literary Notes
Perth features in a number of important Australian books. A B Facey, author of the panoramic autobiography and quintessential ‘Aussie battler’ story, A Fortunate Life (1981), lived for a large part of that life in Perth, working on the (now defunct) tram system. Tim Winton’s modern classic, Cloudstreet (1991), chronicles 20 post-war years in the life of a Leederville family, while Robert Drewe’s memoir, The Shark Net (2000), evokes Perth in the 1950s, during serial killer Eric Cooke’s reign of terror. Archie Weller’s The Day of the Dog (1980), about urban Aboriginal life in Perth, is a key work of black Australian literature; Sally Morgan’s lyrical My Place (1987) is another. The city was also home to Australia’s greatest Aboriginal playwright, Jack Davis, who tackled injustice in The Dreamers (1982) and No Sugar (1986). Writers who currently call Perth home include Australian literary grande dame Elizabeth Jolley, who penned Miss Peabody’s Inheritance (1983) and An Accommodating Spouse (1999), as well as acclaimed, reclusive science fiction author Greg Egan, famous for Permutation City (1994).

Nightlife

From Wednesday to Saturday, there is no shortage of night-time hotspots to visit in Perth – although occasionally it can seem as if there are more venues than punters. The larger dance clubs are concentrated in Northbridge, Subiaco and Fremantle and are friendlier epicentres for the over-30 crowd. Perth is home to a healthy indie rock scene and the ‘craic’ is good at several Irish pubs.

Some venues demand a smart standard of dress and some have a cover charge, usually around A$10. Pubs tend to be licensed 1000-2400 Monday to Thursday, 1000-0100 Friday and Saturday and 1200-2200 Sunday. Bars and nightclubs have longer hours and are licensed for the entire time that they are open. Most clubs stay open until 0500 or later/earlier on Friday and Saturday. The minimum legal drinking age is 18 years. A spirit or premium beer costs in the region of A$5.50.

Free entertainment weekly XPress (website: www.xpressmag.com.au) is the best resource when planning a night on the town, while Teknoscape (website: www.teknoscape.com.au) is a useful clubbing guide.

Bars: ‘Lounge bars’ have taken off in Perth, with hip venues such as The Jazz Room, 677 Beauford Street, Mount Lawley. The polished wooden floorboards of the Varga Lounge, 169 James Street, Northbridge, continue to attract sophisticated drinkers, while The Moon & Sixpence British Pub, Murray Street, is a kitsch but popular hangout serving a wide range of Australian and international beers. The Duxton Bar, 1 St George’s Terrace, offers civilised surroundings for a quiet cocktail. A crawl of Fremantle pubs, such as The Bog, 189 High Street, and Benny’s, 10 South Terrace, is de rigueur when visiting this port town.

Casinos: Located a short distance east of the city, the pyramid-shaped Burswood International Resort Casino, Great Eastern Highway (website: www.burswood.com.au) has over 140 gaming tables, offering blackjack, craps, baccarat, roulette and the classic Australian game of two-up. The complex also contains nine restaurants, six bars, free nightly entertainment, a five-star luxury hotel and an 18-hole golf course. Normal casino dress standards apply, persons under 18 are not admitted and a passport is required. A free shuttle bus conveys visitors between Burswood station (Armadale Line) and the casino.

Clubs: Seemingly in an effort to please everyone, Perth nightlife has lately crystallised into a number of ‘entertainment complexes’ combining discos, bars and live music venues. The Globe, 393 Murray Street, unites a pumping techno area with a late-night bar featuring live bands. The Deen, 84 Aberdeen Street, Northbridge, boasts no less than six zones and four DJs, every night except Monday. When not featuring major international touring bands, Metropolis Fremantle, 58 South Terrace, is a multi-level dance club. The Rosemount Hotel, 458 Fitzgerald Street, North Perth, has DJs from Wednesday to Saturday, playing Hard House, NRG and freeform. Rise, corner of Lake Street and James Street, Northbridge, is serious about dancing, with a massive dancefloor and state-of-the-art sound system. But gay perennial Connections, 81 James Street, Northbridge – 26 years young in 2002 – still offers the best music and light shows in town and everyone, no matter what their orientation, seems to end up here.

Comedy: Perth has nurtured some of Australia’s finest comedians. The Brass Monkey, corner of William Street and James Street, Northbridge, features comedy on Wednesday nights. Werzel’s Comedy Lounge at the Hyde Park Hotel, corner of Bulwer Street and Fitzgerald Street, features comedy on Thursday nights. The Fremantle Hotel, corner of High Street and Cliff Street, is the venue for stand-up every Friday. Burswood Casino, Great Eastern Highway, hosts international touring acts.

Live music: The Universal Bar, 221 William Street, Northbridge, has live soul, funk or rock every night, as well as a suitably cool ambience. The Subiaco Hotel, 465 Hay Street, hosts jazz on Wednesday and Saturday night; patrons can listen while enjoying bistro meals. Local rock bands perform Wednesday to Sunday at The Grosvenor, corner of Hill Street and Hay Street, while a large ‘surfie’ crowd converges on The Lookout, The Esplanade, Scarborough Beach, for bigger Australian acts and rowdy good times. The American-themed Mustang Bar, 46 Lake Street, Northbridge, offers country and western, rockabilly and big-band swing, while Freo’s Orient Hotel, 39 High Street, provides a salsa band on Sunday nights. The Perth Entertainment Centre, Wellington Street, is Perth’s main venue for major rock groups and blockbuster shows.

City Statistics

Location: State of Western Australia, Australia.
Country dialling code: 61.
Population: 1,400,507 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 81.3% Australian, 12% British, 2.3% New Zealander, 1.5% Italian, 1% Malaysian, 0.7% Indian, 0.6% Dutch, 0.6% South African.
Religion: 31.2% no stated religion, 25% Catholic, 23.9% Anglican, 10.5% other Christian denominations, 6.6% Uniting Church, 2.8% non-Christian.
Time zone: GMT + 8.
Electricity: 220-240 volts AC; 50Hz; non-square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 23.5C (74.3F).
Average July temp: 13C (55.4F).
Annual rainfall: 871mm (34.3 inches)

Special Events

BMW Perth Cup, horseracing event, 1 Jan, Ascot Racecourse
Perth International Arts Festival, mid-Jan-mid-Feb, venues throughout the city
National Islander Observance Committee Week, exhibitions of indigenous art and traditional performances, Jul, various venues
Kings Park Wildflower Festival, native plant display, late Sep, Kings Park
Perth Royal Show, agricultural fair, late Sep-early Oct, Claremont Showgrounds
Pride Festival, gay festival, late Sep-late Oct, throughout the city
Telstra Rally Australia, international motor sports event, late Oct-early Nov, Langley Park
Awesome Festival, youth arts festival, mid-Nov, Forrest Place and Perth Cultural Centre
Ashes Third Test Austalia v England, cricket event, late Nov-early Dec, WACA
Fina Women’s Water Polo World Cup, mid-Dec, Challenge Stadium
Hyundai Hopman Cup, international tennis tournament, late Dec-early Jan, Burswood Dome

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: A$1.80
33cl bottle of beer: A$2.60
Financial Times newspaper: A$8.50
36-exposure colour film: A$6.95
City-centre bus ticket: A$1.80
Adult football ticket: A$16
Three-course meal with wine/beer: A$66

1 Australian Dollar (A$1) = 0.41; US$0.77; C$0.97; 0.60
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005