World City Guide

Mini Guide of Paris

City Overview

Paris is the city of a thousand clichs, the ‘City of Lights’ and Hemmingway’s much quoted ‘Moveable Feast’ amongst them, but for once it is also a city that justifies the hype. The French capital is one of the world’s truly great cities, a metropolis that lavishly satisfies the desires of tourists and business people alike and manages to retain a standard of living that makes becoming a Parisian so alluring.

The city dramatically wears its history on its sleeve and today it is still centred around the Ile de la Cit, where over two thousand years ago Celtic tribes first eked out a living. The Romans were later drawn to this strategic location in the middle of the Seine, a natural crossroads between Germany and Spain, and took control in 52BC. Despite English rule between 1420 and 1436, a series of French kings brought about the centralisation of France, with Paris at its cultural, political and economic heart.

Despite its large size and population almost everything worth seeing is contained within the ring road, the Boulevard Priphrique. The compact centre is easily navigable on foot, with the efficient and comprehensive Mtro system always on hand to ease tired limbs. The lifeblood River Seine splits the city neatly in two and the useful arrondissements system neatly carves Paris into manageable chunks.

The history of Paris can be uncovered throughout its distinctive districts. Hilly Montmartre, with its village atmosphere, was where the Paris Commune began in 1871; the Marais evokes medieval Paris, its winding streets a sharp contrast to the wide, orderly Haussmann boulevards, envisaged by Napoleon III to keep the mobs at bay. These grand 19th-century avenues still dominate the city, interspersed with modern flourishes. The grands travaux (large projects) of Prsident Mitterrand added the Grande Arche de la Dfense, the ultra-modern Opra de la Bastille, the impressive Institut du Monde Arabe, and plonked a glass pyramid in the central courtyard of the Louvre.

The varied populations within Paris define the city’s atmosphere just as much as its landmarks. The French establishment resides comfortably in the smart 16th arrondissement, while African and Eastern European immigrants live less lavishly in areas such as up-and-coming Belleville and the Goutte d’Or. The Jewish quarters include the shabby Sentier and trendy Marais district; the latter is also Paris’ gay centre. Emerging areas include Bercy, where new flats, bars and restaurants are drawing a youthful and moneyed crowd east.

Paris is a city with a varied climate that conjures up its own seasonal delights. In summer, when the mercury rises, the locals flock to the new Paris Plage, where a riverside expressway is converted for a month between July and August into an oasis of swimming pools, sand and deckchairs. The best time to visit is, of course, during the famous Paris Spring between April and June, when the days are sunny but not too hot. The autumn and winter months are another good time to come when there are fewer crowds and snow is a rarity, but there really is no bad time to visit one of the world’s truly great cities.

Getting There By Air

Aroports de Paris – ADP (website: www.adp.fr) is responsible for the two major airports in Paris: Roissy-Charles de Gaulle and Orly.

Roissy-Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG)
Tel: (01) 4862 2280.
Website: www.adp.fr

The city’s main airport is located 23km (14 miles) northeast of the city. There are three terminals: CDG 1 serves international flights; CDG 2 serves national and international flights; and T9 has charter flights only (national and international). CDG 1 and CDG 2 are linked by free shuttle buses. Air France coaches and RER line B (see below) link Charles de Gaulle airport to Orly airport (journey time – approximately 50 minutes).

Major airlines: France’s national carrier is Air France (tel: (0820) 320 820 (within France) or (01) 4299 2101 (outside France); website: www.airfrance.com). Other airlines include Air Canada, Alitalia, American Airlines, Cathay Pacific Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and US Airways.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bars, restaurants and boutiques, post offices, newsagents, chemists, banks, ATMs, bureaux de change, insurance facilities and car parks. There is no left-luggage facility. Car hire companies at the airport include Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National Citer and Sixt.

Business facilities: Eight fully equipped meeting rooms, three offices and one VIP lounge are located within the Roissy Charles de Gaulle 1 Business Centre (tel: (01) 4862 2290; fax: (01) 4862 6129), accessible from the departures level near gate 34, by taking the escalators to the shopping level.

Transport to the city: The RER line B (tel: (08) 9268 7714) runs every eight minutes daily 0456-0014, departing from the TGV station of CDG 2 to the Gare du Nord, Chtelet-Les Halles, St-Michel and Denfert-Rochereau, where there are mtro stations (journey time – approximately 30-45 minutes). Tickets cost 7.75.

Two bus services, SNCF bus de nuit (tel: (08) 1002 0202), run from the airport to the city centre when the train line is closed. One service takes passengers to Gare du Nord and Chtelet, the other to Gare du Nord, Chtelet, Gare de Lyon and Gare d’Austerlitz (journey time – approximately 45-60 minutes).

The Roissybus service operated by RAPT (tel: (08) 9268 7714) departs from the three terminals to rue Scribe, mtro Opra (journey time – approximately 60 minutes). The service operates daily 0600-2300 and cost 8.30. RAPT bus services 350 to Gare de l’Est and 351 to Nation also serve Terminals 1 and 2 (cost 1.40).

Air France coaches (tel: (08) 9235 0820) depart every 15 minutes from CDG 1 and CDG 2 – running daily 0550-2300 to Place Charles de Gaulle (journey time – approximately 40 minutes); a ticket costs 10. Buses also depart every 30 minutes daily 0700-2100 to Paris-Montparnasse, rue du Commandant Mouchotte, Gare de Lyon and boulevard Diderot (journey time – approximately 50 minutes); a ticket costs 11.50.

The Blue Shuttle (tel: (01) 3011 1300; fax: (01) 3011 1309; e-mail: thebluevans@wanadoo.fr; website: www.bluvan.fr) is a door-to-door airport minibus service that is often cheaper than a taxi. Places must be reserved at least two days in advance (journey time – approximately 75 minutes). Ticket prices vary according to the number of passengers and the time of booking, the cheapest rate is 14.50 return per person, which is only available if booked at least three weeks ahead. The lowest fare available for a single passenger is 22 return.

A taxi to the city centre costs approximately 38-43 (journey time – 45-60 minutes). The airport’s chauffeur-driven limousine service (tel: (01) 4071 8462) costs 105.

Paris-Orly Airport (ORY)
Tel: (01) 4975 5252.
Website: www.adp.fr.

Orly is located 14km (9 miles) south of the city, on the A6 motorway. There are two terminals linked by shuttle (navette). Orly Sud handles mainly international flights, while Orly Ouest handles mainly domestic flights.

Major airlines: The national carrier is Air France (tel: (0820) 820 320 (within France) or (01) 4299 2101 (outside France); website: www.airfrance.com). Other airlines include Air Algerie, Air Littoral, Corsair, El Al, Iberia, KLM, Royal Air Maroc, Royal Jordanian, TAP and Tunis Air.

Airport facilities: These include bars, restaurants, boutiques, banks, foreign exchange, dry cleaners, supermarket, pharmacy, post office and a hairdresser. There is no left-luggage facility. Car hire companies at the airport include Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National Citer and Sixt.

Business facilities: The fully equipped Orly West Business Centre (tel: (01) 4975 1233; fax: (01) 4975 0163) has 17 meeting rooms, seven offices and a VIP business lounge in the west terminal. Access is from the departure level, by an escalator located at the entrance to hall three.

Transport to the city: A combination service of RER line C (tel: (08) 9268 7714) and the ADP shuttle bus (navette) departs from both terminals and stops at the Gare d’Austerlitz, St-Michel, Invalides and Porte Maillot (journey time – approximately 35 minutes). The service operates daily 0545-2315 and tickets cost 5.25 (includes travel on RER, ADP shuttle and mtro services).

Orlyval (tel: (08) 3668 7714) is the Val train shuttle link to the RER line B station of Anthony, which has mtro connections to Denfert-Rochereau, St-Michel and Chtelet-Les Halles (journey time – approximately 30 minutes). Trains run every ten minutes 0600-2300; tickets to Anthony cost 7, journeys to other stations in Paris 8.85. Note that some passengers have complained that there are no contingency plans when the Orlyval breaks down with passengers left to fight it out for taxis to the airport.

Frequent RATP buses (tel: (08) 9268 4114 (information in English) or (08) 9268 7714; website: www.ratp.fr) stop at place Denfert-Rochereau. The ‘Orlybus’ runs to Denfert-Rochereau RER and mtro station daily 0600-2330 (journey time – 25 minutes), costing 5.80. The ‘Jetbus’ runs to mtro Villejuif-Louis Aragon (journey time – approximately 15 minutes), costing 5.15.

Air France coaches (tel: (08) 9235 0820) operate daily 0600-2330, stopping at the Porte d’Orlans, Gare Montparnasse, Duroc and Gare des Invalides (journey time – approximately 30 minutes). Tickets cost 7.50.

The Blue Shuttle (see Roissy Airport above) costs around 20 for a trip into the city centre (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Taxis from the airport to the centre of Paris also cost around 35 (journey time – approximately 35 minutes). The Airport Limousine service (tel: (01) 4071 8462) provides chauffeur-driven cars; the price is fixed at 90.

Approximate flight times to Paris: From London is 1 hour 10 minutes; from New York is 7 hours; from Los Angeles is 10 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 7 hours and 20 minutes and from Sydney is 23 hours 25 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Getting There By Water

The most convenient ports to Paris from Britain all lie on France’s northern seaboard and include St-Malo, Cherbourg, Caen, Le Havre and Dieppe.

Ferry services: The following companies run regular cross-channel ferries. Brittany Ferries (tel: (0825) 828 828 or (08703) 665 3333 (UK number); website: www.brittany-ferries.com) operates services from Plymouth to Roscoff, from Poole to Cherbourg and from Portsmouth to St-Malo and Caen. Condor Ferries (tel: (0825) 160 300 or (02) 9920 0300 or (0845) 345 2000 (UK number); website: www.condorferries.co.uk) operates from Poole, Weymouth, Jersey and Guernsey to St-Malo and from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. P&O Ferries (tel: (0825) 120 156 (France) or (08705) 202 020 (UK); website: www.poferries.com) sail from Dover to Calais and from Portsmouth to Cherbourg and Le Havre. Hoverspeed (tel: (00800) 1211 1211 or (0870) 240 8070 (UK number); website: www.hoverspeed.com) offers fast hovercraft services from Dover to Calais and from Newhaven to Dieppe.

Transport to the city: The best way for travellers to reach Paris from the ferry ports is by car or by rail.

Getting There By Road

Motorways bear the prefix ‘A’ and national roads ‘N’. Minor roads are classed as ‘D’ (dpartementales) roads. Traffic drives on the right and drivers must give way to the right, unless the route is marked with Passage Protg signs (a broad arrow, a yellow diamond or an ‘X’ on a triangular background) or the driver is at a roundabout indicating vous n’avez pas la priorit (‘you do not have the right of way’). Speed limits are 130kph (80mph) on motorways; 110kph (68mph) on dual carriageways separated by a central reservation; 90kph (56mph) outside built-up areas and 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Drivers who have held a driving licence for less than two years have different speed restrictions to those who have been driving for longer – a maximum speed limit of 110kph (68mph) is enforced.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn by all front- and rear-seat passengers. Under-tens may not travel in the front seat. A national driving licence, the car’s registration document and a red warning triangle must be carried at all times, or the driver is liable for a fine. EU nationals taking their own cars to France are strongly advised to obtain a Green Card, without which insurance cover is limited to the legal minimum. The Green Card tops this up to the level of cover provided by the car owner’s domestic policy. All headlamp beams must be adjusted for right-side driving by use of beam deflectors or by tilting the headlamp bulb-holder. The French police fine motorists on the spot for driving offences such as speeding. Random breath tests for drinking and driving are common; the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%.

Further details on driving in France are available from French Government Tourist Offices. The Automobile Club de France (tel: (01) 4312 4312) can provide information and might offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown services:
SOS Dpannage (tel: (01) 4707 9999)
Auto Charonne Depannage (tel: (01) 4707 9999; website: www.autocharonnedepannage.com)

Routes to the city: The Anglo-French Eurotunnel shuttle services allow drivers and passengers of cars and coaches to cross the Channel Tunnel (journey time – approximately 35 minutes) from Kent in Southern England to Nord-Pas-de-Calais in Northern France. The tunnel is linked to the UK and French motorway networks. Tickets are available for purchase at check-in on the day of travel or pre-booked with Eurotunnel (tel: (08705) 353 535; website: www.eurotunnel.com). Alternatively, there are numerous daily sea crossings to France (see Getting There By Water).

From Boulogne (near Calais), the A16 leads directly into Paris. The E19 motorway leads from Brussels into Paris (via the A2 and A1). Lille is linked directly to Paris via the A1. Paris is surrounded by the often congested Priphrique ring road, its intersections (portes) are used to access the nearest point of entry to the desired destination. The N10 leads directly from Bordeaux to Paris, while from Marseilles, drivers should take the A7 to Lyon, after which the A6 leads north to Paris.

Approximate driving times to Paris: From Lille – 2 hours 30 minutes; Brussels – 3 hours 30 minutes; London – 5 hours (excluding the Channel crossing); Bordeaux – 6 hours; Marseille – 7 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: The majority of international coaches arrive and depart from the main coach station, Gare Routire Internationale Paris-Gallieni, at Bagnolet, 20th (tel: (0892) 899 091). Reservations can be made (in English) with Eurolines (tel: (0836) 695 252; website: www.eurolines.fr), with links to Paris from Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, London, Rome and many other European destinations.

Getting There By Rail

Socit Nationale des Chemins de Fer – SNCF (tel: (01) 5390 2020 (Ile de France) or (08) 9235 3535 (national); website: www.sncf.com) is the national railway service, which is fast, efficient and generally reliable. A state-of-the-art high speed railway network (the TGV) spreads out from Paris to most major French cities, including Lyon and Marseilles. Paris has six major stations – Gare du Nord, rue Dunkerque, 10th, Gare de l’Est, Place du 8 Mai 1945, 10th, Gare St-Lazare, place du Havre, 8th, Gare de Lyon, place Louis-Armand, 12th, Gare Montparnasse, boulevard de Vaugirard, 15th, and Gare d’Austerlitz, boulevard de l’Hpital, 13th. Each station has cafs, restaurants, tabacs, banks, bureaux de change, ATMs and car hire available on the premises or nearby. The Gare de Lyon also has a tourist office. Information on the French rail network is available directly from SNCF or from Rail Europe in the UK (tel: (08705) 848 848; website: www.raileurope.co.uk).

Rail services: Gare du Nord is the French terminus of the international high-speed Eurostar (tel: (03) 2855 8212 or (08705) 186 186 (in the UK); website: www.eurostar.com) train that runs from London Waterloo (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes). Thalys’ services from Brussels Bruxelles-Midi also terminate here (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes). The train station also contains Eurostar’s executive lounge. Eurostar also runs from London Waterloo to Disneyland Paris (tel: (01) 6474 5800; website: www.disneylandparis.com).

The Eurotunnel shuttle service is also available for drivers (see Getting There By Road).

Transport to the city: All of Paris’ major train stations are directly linked to the mtro network.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Rgie Autonome des Transports Parisiens or RATP (tel: (08) 9268 4114 for information in English or (08) 9268 7714; website: www.ratp.fr) is an integrated, five-zone system of bus, mtro and trains that is both cheap and efficient (except during strikes, which are frequent).

The 14 mtro lines extend into zones one and two in central Paris. Mtros operate daily 0530-0030, lines are colour-coded and designated by numbers. They are also clearly signposted with the names of the terminus station. The newest addition (line 14 mtro Mtor) runs from Gare St-Lazare to Bibliothque Franois Mitterrand using brand new driverless trains. Free transport maps are available at mtro stations, bus terminals and the tourist office.

The RER (Rseau Express Rgional) suburban express network has five lines (A, B, C, D and E) covering five zones and operating daily 0500-0110 with journey times generally much faster than the mtro for distances covered. The system is linked to the mtro network and some SNCF trains.

The bus system is easy to use. Bus routes are numbered and stops display the buses that stop there, while a map shows all the stops on the route and the bus times. Most buses run Monday to Saturday 0630-2100; some continue until 0130. Services are reduced by approximately half on Sundays and bank holidays. Night buses (Noctambuses) run on 18 routes, Monday to Saturday 0100-0530 hourly, with a reduced service on Sunday. The night bus service cuts between place du Chtelet by the Htel de Ville and the suburbs.

The same tickets are valid on the bus, mtro and RER (within zones one and two only) but not night buses (see below). One ticket is sufficient for a single bus ride, for an RER journey (within zones one and two only) or a mtro journey (irrespective of zone). One ticket allows for changes (correspondances) of lines on the RER and the mtro, however, separate tickets are required for changes between buses or between bus and mtro/RER. Tickets should be validated on entry and kept until the end of the journey to avoid on-the-spot fines. Single tickets cost 1.40; a carnet of ten tickets costs 10.50. Tickets, carnets and passes are all available for purchase from stations and tabacs; only single tickets may be purchased from the bus driver.

Night buses require separate tickets, which cost 2.40 each and allow one change. Weekly or monthly travel passes (see below) may also be used on night buses. A mobilis day pass costs 5 for central Paris and 11.70 for five zones including the airports. Paris Visites offer one, two, three and five-day visitors passes at 8.35, 13.70, 18.25 and 26.65 respectively for Paris and its immediate suburbs (zones 1-3), or 16.75, 26.65, 37.35 and 45.70 to include transport to the airports, Versailles and Disneyland Paris (zones 1-5). There are reduced prices for children. These are available for purchase at the airports, mtro and RER stations and tourist offices.

For longer stays, the Carte Orange, with a weekly coupon (coupon hebdomadaire), for sale at all mtro stations, provides good value. At 15.40, it allows a week of travel in zones one and two. There is also a monthly Carte Orange that costs 50.40 for zones one and two. Tickets covering more zones are also available. The Carte Orange reusable ticket should be validated at the mtro turnstile and shown to the bus driver.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed in the street or caught at taxi ranks (arrts taxis) found at airports, stations and close to main road junctions. A free taxi can be difficult to find, especially when most in demand – Friday and Saturday nights. A yellow light displayed on the roof shows that the taxi is available for hire; an orange light shows the taxi is in use. Taxi ranks have telephones, so if there are no cars in the rank you can call one.

A daytime journey in central Paris tends to cost between 6 and 10 (tariff A). Journeys after 1900, on Sundays, bank holidays and in the suburbs are more expensive (tariff B). The most expensive rate (tariff C) applies for the suburbs and airports at night and districts outside Paris during the day. There are additional charges for pick-up (2) and various other situations, including extra passengers, luggage (0.90) and waiting. The minimum charge for a taxi ride is 5.10. Tipping is not compulsory but drivers expect around 10%.

Taxi numbers are displayed at the taxi ranks and listed in the yellow pages. These include Alpha Taxis (tel: (01) 4585 8585), Taxis Bleus (tel: (0891) 701 010) and Taxis G7 (tel: (01) 4739 4739).

Limousines
Major providers are Elite Limousines (tel: (01) 4720 7020; website: www.elitelimousines.com); ExecutiveCar (tel: (01) 4265 5431; website: www.executive-car.com); and Paris France Limousines (tel: (01) 4344 1272; website: www.pf-limousines.com). Rates start at 60 per hour, with driver.

Driving in the City
Driving in central Paris is not advised. Most hotels do not have garages, parking is difficult (illegally parked cars are towed away) and traffic jams (embouteillages) are frequent. While the average speed in the mtro is 27kph (17mph), the average road speed is 18kph (11mph) and even slower during the rush hours (Monday to Friday 0730-0900 and 1700-1900).

Parking prices vary throughout the city but are in the region of 1.50-3 an hour, for a maximum of two hours. Most legal street-side parking spaces are marked ‘payant’; coins of 0.20, 0.50 and 1 may be used for the pay-and-display parking machines (horodateurs). Paris also has numerous underground and covered car parks in the city centre, costing around 2.50 per hour or approximately 15 for periods of 12-24 hours. These include the Arc de Triomphe, place de la Concorde and near the Forum des Halles. Many municipal garages close at around 2300 and some are closed on Sunday. The only good news is that parking is usually free on weekends and on weekdays before 0900 and after 1900.

Car Hire
The minimum age for car hire varies from 21 to 25 years. Drivers must have held a national driving licence for at least one year. It is usually requested that the cost is paid for with the driver’s credit card.

Major car hire companies include Avis (tel: (08) 2002 4034 or (01) 4418 1054; website: www.avis.fr), Budget (tel: (01) 4884 6029; website: www.budget.com), Europcar (tel: (01) 3044 9384; website: www.europcar.fr), Hertz (tel: (01) 3938 3000 or (01) 4703 4912; website: www.hertz.fr), National Citer (tel: (01) 4438 6045; website: www.citer.fr), and Sixt (tel: (01) 4438 5552; website: www.sixt.fr). In addition, local firms include ADA, with numerous branches (tel: (08) 2516 9169; website: www.ada.fr) and Rent A Car (tel: (01) 5358 4000; website: www.rentacar.fr).
Average car hire rates are approximately 60 per day or 200 per week.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
The Mairie de Paris embarked on a scheme to introduce cycle lanes in 1996, which now total 100km (62 miles). Various maps and cycling guides can be found in bookstores and at some cycle shops. Bicycle hire companies include Bike’N Roller, 38 rue Faubert, 7th (tel: (01) 4407 3589), Paris Vlo C’est Sympa!, 37 boulevard Bourdon, 4th (tel: (01) 4887 6001; website: www.parisvelosympa.com) and Paris Vlo, 4 rue du Fer--Moulin, 5th (tel: (01) 4337 5922; website: www.paris-velo-rent-a-bike.fr). Bicycle hire costs from around 12.50 per day.

Scooters and motorbikes are available for hire from Atelier de la Compagnie, 57 boulevard de Grenelle, 15th (tel: (01) 4579 7724; website: www.atelier-de-la-compagnie.com) and SEJEM, 144 boulevard Voltaire, 11th (tel: (01) 4493 0403; website: www.sejem.com). Scooter rental costs from 20-150 a day depending on the scooter’s cc, the day and place of hire.

Business

Business Profile
France is the fourth largest economic power in the world in terms of GDP and the second largest exporter of services and agricultural products. Paris and the Ile-de-France region are responsible for almost a third of the country’s total GDP. The Paris region is predominantly a service economy, followed in importance by commerce, industry, construction and agriculture. Particular strengths are in pharmaceuticals, telecommunications, publishing and research, with Paris ranking first in Europe in terms of research development. Five of the French banks (including Crdit Agricole, BNP and the Caisse d’Epargne) are among the main commercial banks in Europe.

The excellent transport and telecommunications network, highly skilled workforce, quality of life and prestige of Paris have encouraged companies to locate in the city. Many top international companies, including Sony, IBM, Hewlett Packard France, Siemens and Motorola have a presence in Paris and around 40 companies base their international headquarters here. In total, the French capital has attracted about 2,400 foreign companies and numerous foreign banks.

Paris rates among the world’s most popular international conference venues. Its thousand-plus annual conventions include over 300 international conferences and 300 trade shows. Tourism is vitally important to the city’s economy with 22.5 million international overnight stays in 2003. Terrorism scares and global instability have hindered visitor numbers in recent years. Paris is still one of Europe’s major tourist drawcards, with the world’s biggest industry still crucial to the city.

The economy in general is not in a buoyant state at the moment. Both the capital and the country’s unemployment rates have risen since 2002. Unemployment by the end of 2003 was running at 9.1% in Paris and there are said to be nearly 50,000 homeless people on the streets and in the mtro stations. The national unemployment rate is similar, standing at 9.6%.

The main business districts are located in the 8th around avenue des Champs-Elyses, 2nd, where the Bourse (Stock Exchange) is located near to rue de la Banque in a grand First Empire building and the smart 16th arrondissement. The futuristic business district of La Dfense is home to the huge CNIT exhibition hall and Elf, Gan and Fiat.

There are a number of Internet cafes dotted around the city. Some of the most convenient are located at Access Academy, 60-62 rue Sainte-Andr-des-Arts, 6th; Baguenaude Caf, 30 rue de la Grande-Truanderie, 1st and Meilleur des Mondes, 4 bis, rue Michel-Chasles, 12th. Look out also for free internet terminals in major railway stations.

Business Etiquette
A degree of Parisian aggression and plenty of persistence is necessary when attempting business in the capital. However, firmness, not rudeness, is in order. At the first meeting, non-French speakers should apologise for their lack of linguistic aptitude and respect the local formality, addressing colleagues with the appropriate Madame, Monsieur, Professeur or Docteur followed by the surname and a handshake. Business cards (preferably in French and English) should be presented. Small talk is an essential part of doing business, so it is wise to do a quick refresher on French politics and culture prior to the meeting and not to rush straight to talk of business. Smart, conservative dress is recommended.

Standard business hours are Monday to Friday 0830/0900-1800/1900. Lunches may last for two hours or more – it is best for one to schedule meetings at 1100 or 1500, unless for lunch itself. Business lunches, working dinners and breakfast meetings are common. There has, though, been a move in recent years away from boozy long lunches towards shorter less indulgent affairs. Whoever fixes the meeting is expected to settle the bill. Conducting business in August (during the Parisian exodus to the south) is to be avoided at all costs.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The city centre is actually surprisingly compact and the mtro system makes getting around fairly easy. A good way for first time arrivals to get an idea of how Paris fits together is to take a cruise on the River Seine or ascend the Eiffel Tower and take in a sweeping view of the city. With so much to see, time management is crucial and many people opt to choose to concentrate on one or two of the arrondissements.

The nostalgic should wander around the mansions of the Marais district, past the Muse Carnavalet, 23 rue de Svign, 3rd; Htel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th, and Place des Vosges, home to the Maison de Victor Hugo. Those interested in modern art and design should opt for the Centre Georges Pompidou, place Beaubourg, 4th; Jean Nouvel’s Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fosss-St-Bernard, 5th; or the Grande Arche de la Dfense with its high-speed glass lift offering a spectacular view of Paris. The Grande Arche, which lies along the same geographical axis as Napoleon’s Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elyses, was built a century and a half later. This incongruity (the modern city juxtaposed with the old) is all part of the charm of Paris.

Paris overflows with museums, ranging from the vast collections of the Louvre to the small and quirky – such as the Muse des Arts Forains, 53 avenue des-Terroires-de-France, 12th, a shrine to fairground art, with something for everyone scattered through the metropolitan area.

Repeat visitors to Paris usually end up uncovering something new, such as the rejuvenated Bercy district to the east with its green spaces, popular bars and development buzz or Belleville, with its grungy cosmopolitanism and ethnic restaurants. A new attraction is the Paris Plage in summer when the car takes a back seat and the city’s citizens relax by the Seine amidst a world of sand and deckchairs. This is only one urban escape in a city with a sprinkling of parks that offer respite from the bustle.

Tourist Information
Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
25 rue des Pyramides
Tel: (0892) 68 3000.
Website: www.paris-touristoffice.com
Opening hours: (Jun-Oct) daily 0900-1900; (Nov-May) Mon-Sat 1100-1900, Sun 1000-1900.

Further tourist offices are located at the Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot, 12th (open Mon to Sat 0800-1800), Gare du Nord, 18 rue de Dunkerque, 10th (open 0800-1800), Opera, 11 rue Scribe, 9th (open 0900-1830), Eiffel Tower (open daily 1100-1840 May to Sep).

Passes
The new Museum Pass allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region, including the Arc de Triomphe, Muse National du Louvre, Muse d’Orsay and Muse Rodin. The pass is for sale (25 for one day, 44 for three days and 62 for five days) from tourist offices, participating museums and monuments, the main mtro stations and FNAC stores. The pass allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions. For more information, visit www.museums-of-paris.com

Key Attractions

Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower)
The Eiffel Tower literally towers over the Champ de Mars in the smart 7th arrondissement. The top (third) floor offers a sweeping panorama of Paris. From directly underneath there is a fascinating view of the delicate ironwork of Gustave Eiffel, who was commissioned to build the tower for the Exposition Universelle in 1889, the centenary of the French Revolution. The Tour Eiffel is also home to a number of restaurants, which offer views of the city and sky high prices to match.

Champ de Mars, 7th
Tel: (01) 4411 2323 (recorded information). Fax: (01) 4411 2322.
Website: www.tour-eiffel.fr
Transport: Mtro Bir-Hakeim; RER Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-2300 (Sep-mid Jun); daily 0900-2400 (mid Jun-Aug).
Admission: By lift: 4 (first floor); 7.30 (second floor); 10.40 (third floor); by stairs: 3.50 (first and second floors only); concessions available.

Cathdrale de Notre-Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady)
The stocky Notre-Dame Cathedral, situated on the Ile-de-la-Cit, could not be more different from the filigree Eiffel Tower. Bishop Maurice de Sully began construction on the cathedral in 1163, to outshine the new abbey at St-Denis; work was completed in 1345. The result is a Gothic masterpiece, with three stunning rose windows. Visitors should be prepared to climb the 387 spiral steps to the top of the 75m (246ft) north tower. The views over the River Seine and the city centre are well worth the effort. There is also a treasury with various liturgical objects on display. A violent storm in 1999 caused significant damage to the cathedral, though by 2004 much of it had been repaired. The scaffolding, which has blighted the cathedral for as long as anyone can remember, looks set to remain for the foreseeable future.

6 Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame, 4th
Tel: (01) 4234 5610 or 4432 1672 (information on tower). Fax: (01) 4051 7098.
E-mail: info@cathedraledeparis.com
Website: www.cathedraledeparis.com
Transport: Mtro Cit; RER St-Michel-Notre-Dame.
Opening hours: Daily 0745-1845 (cathedral); daily 0930-1845 (towers); Mon-Sat 0930-1130 and 1300-1730 (treasury).
Admission: Free (cathedral); 5.50 (towers); 2.50 (treasury); concessions available.

La Basilique du Sacr-Coeur (The Sacred Heart Basilica)
A long, wide series of steps lead to the snowy-white-domed Sacr-Coeur that dominates the arty district of Montmartre. A mishmash of styles, the Catholic church was built between 1870 and 1919, to fulfil a vow made during the Franco-Prussian war. The interior is splendid with neo-Byzantine mosaics and the domed tower offers a spectacular view over Paris. The crypt contains an interesting collection of religious relics and a slide show on the construction of the Basilica. Below the church, a park tumbles down the hillside in a flurry of benches that make an ideal spot for surveying the city skyline.

Parvis du Sacr-Coeur, 18th
Tel: (01) 5341 8900. Fax: (01) 5341 8919.
Website: www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com
Transport: Mtro Abbesses or Anvers.
Opening hours: Daily 0600-2300 (Basilica); daily 0930–1830 (crypt and dome).
Admission: Free (Basilica); 5 (dome and crypt); concessions available.

Muse National du Louvre (Louvre National Museum)
The Louvre first opened to the public in 1793, following the Revolution, as a showcase for the art treasures of the kings of France. The museum is organised into three wings on four floors – Richelieu (along rue de Rivoli), Sully (around cour Carre) and Denon (along the River Seine). The vast permanent collection includes Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Egyptian and East Asian antiquities, French, Spanish, Italian and northern European sculpture and 19th-century objets d’art. The painting collection is the strongest, with French, Italian, Dutch, German, Flemish and Spanish masterpieces from the mid-13th to the mid-19th centuries. Most famed French works include David’s Coronation of Napolon, Ingres’ The Turkish Bath, Gricault’s depiction of disaster, The Raft of the Medusa and Delacroix’s ode to revolution, Liberty Leading the People. The museum’s greatest treasure, Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, is in a bullet-proof case. There are plans to move it into its own room, but for now it is on display in room 13, on the first floor of the Denon wing. Excavations have exposed traces of the medieval Louvre, which are on display together with the history of the Louvre under the Cour Carre, in the entresol level in the Sully wing. Buying tickets from the official website in advance saves unnecessary time spent queuing.

Cour Napolon, 1st
Tel: (01) 4020 5050. Fax: (01) 4020 5452.
E-mail: info@louvre.fr
Website: www.louvre.fr
Transport: Mtro Palais Royal-Muse du Louvre.
Opening hours: daily 0900-1800, Wed and Fri until 2145 (from Sep 10); closed Tues.
Opening hours for temporary exhibitions vary.
Admission: Permanent and temporary exhibitions: 8.50; 6 (after 1800 and Sun); temporary exhibitions in Napoleon Hall: 7; temporary exhibitions in Napoleon Hall and permanent exhibitions combined: 11.50 (until 1800), 9.50 (after 1800 and Sun); free (first Sun of each month and 14 July); concessions available; advance tickets can be purchased by telephone (tel: (01) 4691 5757), from branches of FNAC and on the Internet; tickets allow same-day re-admission.

Muse Rodin (Rodin Museum)
Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) lived and worked in this 18th-century htel particulier. Now the Rodin Museum, his sculptures populate the interior and gardens. Indoors, The Kiss portrays eternal passion frozen in white marble, while The Hand of God gives life to creamy white, half-formed figures. Works of Rodin’s mistress and pupil, Camille Claudel, and paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir and Rodin himself are also on display. The gardens are graced by the monumental bronze The Thinker, whose godly physique contrasts sharply with the decrepitude of the writhing figures of The Gates of Hell and the controversial final portrait of Balzac, once described as ‘a block that disgraces its author and French Art’.

77 rue de Varenne, 7th
Tel: (01) 4418 6110. Fax: (01) 4418 6130.
Website: www.musee-rodin.fr
Transport: Mtro Varenne, Invalides or St Francois Xavier. RER Line C to Invalides. Bus 69, 82, 87 and 92.
Opening hours: Museum: Tues-Sun 0930-1745, garden: Tues-Sun 0930-1845 (Apr-Sep); museum: Tues-Sun 0930-1645, garden: Tues-Sun 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: 5; concessions available; free first Sun of each month; 1 (garden only).

Muse d’Orsay (Museum of Orsay)
The museum’s home, an impressively converted railway station by the banks of the Seine, is stunning, but the real strength of this large museum lies in its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. The collection, covering the decisive 1848-1914 period, is arranged chronologically, beginning on the ground floor, jumping to the third, then descending to the middle level. Among the most famous works are Manet’s Djeuner sur l’Herbe (Luncheon on the Grass), rejected from the Salon of 1863, five of Monet’s paintings of Rouen Cathedral and the realist work, L’Origine du Monde (The Origin of the World), by Gustave Courbet, whose graphic depiction of the female sex continues to shock.

Entrances at 1 rue de la Lgion d’Honneur and 1 rue de Bellechasse, 7th
Tel: (01) 4049 4814.
Website: www.musee-orsay.fr
Transport: Mtro Solfrino; RER Muse d’Orsay. Bus 24, 63, 69, 73, 83, 84 and 94.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2145, Sun 0900-1800 (Oct-May); Tues, Wed, Fri-Sun 0900-1800, Thurs 0900-2145 (Jun-Sep).
Admission: 7; concessions available; free first Sun of each month.

Muse National Picasso (National Picasso Museum)
Paris-based Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) owned most of this collection, the largest worldwide, housed in a 17th-century mansion in the Marais. All phases of his art are represented, with preparatory sketches and paintings covering the Blue Period, Rose Period, Cubism, Classicism, Surrealism and sculptures ranging from a huge plaster head to a small cat. Memorable works include the Blue Period self-portrait Paolo as Harlequin, the surreal Nude in an Armchair and poignant paintings of Marie-Thrse. Photographs are displayed alongside the works they inspired and African masks with Picasso’s ‘primitive’ wood carvings. There is also a glimpse of the artist’s personal taste in paintings, with his Matisse and Czanne paintings displayed alongside his own.

Htel Sal, 5 rue de Thorigny, 3rd
Tel: (01) 4271 2521. Fax: (01) 4804 7546.
Website: www.musee-picasso.fr
Transport: Mtro Chemin Vert, St-Paul or St Sebastien Froissart. Bus 29, 69, 75 and 96.
Opening hours: Wed, Fri-Mon 0930-1800, Thurs 0930-2000 (summer); Wed, Fri-Mon 0930-1730, Thurs 0930-2000 (winter).
Admission: 5.50; concessions available; free first Sun of each month; extra charge for temporary exhibitions apply.

Centre Georges Pompidou (Georges Pompidou Centre)
Considered outrageous in 1977, the Pompidou Centre, designed by Piano and Rogers, has become part of the Parisian landscape, primary coloured tubes and all. The building was revamped and extended a few years ago, to cope with the huge numbers of people visiting its expanding collection of contemporary art and multimedia library. The centre re-opened on the first day of the new millennium.

Place Georges Pompidou, 4th
Tel: (01) 4478 1233.
E-mail: info@cnac-gp.fr
Website: www.centrepompidou.fr
Transport: Mtro Htel de Ville or Rambuteau; RER Chtelet-Les Halles.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1100-2100; late-night openings until 2300 for some exhibits.
Admission: Museum and all exhibits 10; exhibitions: 9 or 7 according to exhibition, free first Sun of each month.

Paris Plage
Since its inception in 2001 Paris Plage has become a highly successful annual event. The idea of shutting off a busy 3.5km section of riverfront expressway in the city centre and turning it into a giant leisure oasis is both simple and brilliant, though it has provoked the ire of some of the city’s taxi drivers. A flurry of deckchairs and hammocks replace the cars and an open-air swimming pool, mainly geared towards children, was introduced in 2004 alongside the stalls selling food, drinks and ice cream. Mist sprays, sand and the sight of relaxing locals and tourists manage to raise a smile from all but the most world-weary of Parisians.

Banks of the Seine between Tuileries Tunnel and the Henri IV bridge
Opening times: Jul-Aug
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens)
This garden, part formal, part jardin l’anglaise, were created for Marie de Mdicis (Henri IV’s widow), along with the Palais du Luxembourg, which now houses the French Senate. It is a favoured spot for a Sunday stroll, game of tennis, chess or boules, pony ride or yacht trip on the lake.

Boulevard St-Michel, rue de Mdicis, rue Guynemer, rue d’Assas, rue Auguste-Comte or rue de Vaugirard, 6th
Tel: (01) 4234 2362.
Transport: Mtro Odon; RER Luxembourg.
Opening hours: Daily 0715-2130 (Apr-Sep); daily 0800-dusk (Oct-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
This appealing park spreads over 23 hectares between Gare du Nord and Belleville. It was originally commissioned by Napoleon III and mixes grandeur with wildlife. Its walkways are alive with the likes of wagtails, tits, gulls, geese and swans. In the lake pike, tench and roach abound. The park is perfect for escaping the city for a while, strolling around its lofty inclines or even popping on some in-line skates and heading around the skate trail.

Transport: Mtro Buttes Chaumont
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission: Free.

La Grande Mosque de Paris (Paris Grand Mosque)
Built between 1922 and 1926, close to the Jardin des Plantes, this Hispano-Moorish mosque oversees France’s Muslim community. There is free access and guided tours to the sunken garden and patios. The prayer room, however, remains closed to the non-Muslim public. There is also an authentic hammam (Turkish bath) with masseurs at hand, as well as a wonderful mosaic courtyard complete with fig trees and a fountain – the perfect setting for enjoying a sweet mint tea served in tiny gilded glasses with some honeyed baklava. In the adjoining restaurant, couscous and other Arabic dishes are served.

1 place du Puits-de-l’Ermite (access via 39 rue Goffroy-St-Hillaire), 5th
Tel: (01) 4535 9733. Fax: (01) 4535 1623.
Website: www.mosquee-de-paris.org
Transport: Mtro Place Monge or Censier-Daubenton.
Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Thurs and Sat 1000-2100, Fri 1400-2100 (women); Tues 1400-2100, Sun 1000-2100 (men); tours Sat-Thurs 0900-1200 and 1400-1800 (winter), Sat-Thurs 0900-1200 and 1400-2200 (summer); closed Muslim holidays.
Admission: 3 (guided visit); concessions available; free (tearoom); 15 (Turkish baths – massages extra).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Walks on a variety of themes are offered by Paris Walks (tel: (01) 4809 2140; fax: (01) 4243 7551; website: www.paris-walks.com), including ‘Hemingway’s Paris’, ‘The Village of Montmartre’, ‘The Marais Circuit’ and many more. ‘The Marais Circuit’ departs every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday; ‘Hemingway’s Paris’ every Friday and the ‘Village of Montmartre’ every Wednesday and Sunday. Tours depart from various mtro stations, which are listed on the website, last two hours and cost 10 (concessions available).

Details of most tours are in the weekly Pariscope magazine (website: www.pariscope.com). Tour providers and tourist guides are also listed in the English language guide Paris for You. The latter is produced by the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau and can be picked up from Tourist Information Offices.

Bus Tours
The Balabus is an ordinary city bus that is marked Bb on the front. It operates from stops marked ‘Balabus’ from mid April to the end of September, passing key sights between the Grand Arche de la Dfense and the Gare de Lyon. Details can be obtained from any mtro station.

Several companies offer coach tours of Paris, with Les Cars Rouges (tel: (01) 5395 3953; website: www.lescarsrouges.com), using distinctive red London double-decker buses. Tickets cost 22, purchased on the bus or at tourist offices (concessions available). There are nine stops at main tourist attractions and a recorded commentary in English. A trip around the whole route takes 2 hours 15 minutes. Passengers can get on and off at will, with tickets valid for two days.

L’Open Tour hop-on hop-off buses (tel: (01) 4266 5656; website: www.paris-opentour.com) operate daily throughout the year, offering four different routes with running commentaries in French and English, passing all the major tourist sights in the city. One and two day passes cost 24 and 27 respectively and are available from tourist offices, RATP offices and also from some hotels and travel agencies. Buses run every ten to 15 minutes 1000-1800 April-October and every 25-30 minutes 0930-1600 November-March.

Minibus Tours
A good alternative to the big bus tours are tours run by minibus. Minibus may access sites that big coaches may not. Several companies offer minibus tours around Paris, with Paris Trip (tel: (01) 4212 8672; website: www.paris-trip.com), using air-conditioned minivans. City tours cost run from 42 (for a two hours Orientation City Tour including pick-up and return to the hotel) up to 85 (including lunch at the Eiffel Tower and a one hour cruise down the river). Tours are available in different languages.

Boat Tours
The city’s bteaux-mouches and vedettes are a popular and instantly recognisable feature of the River Seine. Many companies offer cruises – some including lunch or dinner – including Vedettes de Paris (tel: (01) 4418 0803; fax: (01) 4705 7453; website: www.vedettesdeparis.com), Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf (tel: (01) 4633 9838; fax: (01) 4329 8619; website: www.pontneuf.net) and Bteaux Parisiens (tel: (01) 4411 3344; fax: (01) 4556 0788; website: www.bateauxparisiens.com). A basic sightseeing tour costs 9-10 and lasts one hour. Departure points are at various stops along the banks of the Seine.

Bicycle Tours
Various maps and cycle guides (available at tourist offices, bookshops or bike-hire outlets) detail cycle routes in the city. In addition, there are also routes in the Bois de Boulogne, the Bois de Vincennes and a popular Sunday trip along the River Seine, which is closed to cars 1000-1600.

Paris Vlo, C’est Sympa!, 37 boulevard Bourdon (tel: (01) 4887 6001; website: www.parisvelosympa.com), offers a variety of three-hour bicycle tours for 32.50 (concessions available) including ‘Heart of Paris’, ‘Paris Contrasts’, ‘Paris at Dawn’ and ‘Unusual Paris’, as well as ‘Paris by Night’ tours during the summer months. Those travelling in groups can book day-long cycling tours to Versailles or Paris Guinguettes. Tours depart from the shop and the price includes bicycle hire and insurance. The company also rents bicycles at a rate of 12.50 per 24 hours or 24 for a whole weekend and 59 per week.

Excursions

For a Half Day
Chteau de Versailles: No sooner had Louis XIV set eyes on his finance minister’s chteau at Vaux-le-Victomte, than he decided to build a bigger and better one. The result is one of the three most visited monuments in France. Construction began in 1664, continuing until Louis XIV’s death in 1715. Much of the palace can only be visited with a guide, with the notable exception of the 73m (240ft) Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors), where the Treaty of Versailles was signed, effectively bringing World War I to an end. It is worth queuing for a guided tour, if only to recapture the ritualistic atmosphere of the reign of the Sun King, whose actions were considered as miraculous as the movements of the sun itself. The honoured elite among the 20,000 courtiers and royal ministers were obliged to relocate to the palace and observed these banal rituals with awe.

Entry to the chteau state apartments (tel: (01) 3083 7800; website: www.chateauversailles.fr) costs 7.50 (concessions available). There is the option of a one-hour guided visit of the King’s Chamber (audio tour), which costs 4. The chateau and gardens are set in a landscaped park, designed by Le Ntre, which is open daily, except during bad weather, from 0700 in summer and 0800 in winter until sunset. Admission to the park is free, although entry to the formal gardens costs 3 (free in winter months). There are also guided tours of the garden for an extra 5. The chteau itself is open Tuesday to Sunday 0900-1730 (until 1830 from April to October). The grounds are so large that a little train chugs from the palace to the former royal love nests – the Grand and Petit Trianons (open daily 1200-1730 – until 1830 from April to October). The Italianate Grand Trianon was built in 1687, for Louis XIV to enjoy the company of Madame de Maintenon. Napolon also had a penchant for this building, which is on a somewhat more human scale than the chteau, and stayed there with Marie-Louise. Louis XV had Gabriel build the Petit Trianon in the 1760s, for his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Admission costs 5 to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon combined. The chteau (and everything on site) is free to everyone on the first Sunday of the month from November to March.

Versailles is located 23km (14 miles) west of the city and is easily accessible from central Paris on the RER line C5 to Versailles-Rive Gauche.

For a Whole Day
Giverny: Monet lived in countrified Giverny, located 80km (50 miles) northwest of Paris, from 1883 until his death in 1926. The house, in which he painted his last, vast water lily canvas, is open to the public as Muse Claude Monet. Although the house retains much of its charm, the artist’s studio is now a large and over-commercialised gift shop – Monet is, after all, big business. Although many of the original paintings are now at the Muse d’Orsay, the inspiration behind them remains here – the famed water lily pond and Japanese footbridges. The museum, 84 rue Claude Monet (tel: (02) 3251 2821; fax: (02) 3251 5418; website: www.fondation-monet.com), is open from Tuesday to Sunday 0930-1800 (April to October). Admission prices are 5.50 for the house and garden or 4 for the gardens only.

A few minutes away, in 99 rue Claude Monet, the Muse d’Art Amricain (tel: (02) 3251 9465; fax: (02) 3251 9467; website: www.maag.org), is a shrine to Monet-influenced American artists, such as Winslow Homer and Mary Cassatt. Opening hours are from Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October) and admission costs 5.50.

By car, visitors should take the A13 runs from Paris to Bonnires onto the D201 to Giverny. Alternatively, the train from Gare St-Lazare station goes to Vernon, from where visitors should take a taxi or bus to Giverny.

Sport

Parisians generally prefer to watch sport rather than participate, although the annual Paris Marathon in April is an exception. The major spectator event, however, takes place in late July, when swarms of cyclists hurl down the avenue des Champs-Elyses, which is lined with crowds, in the final stages of the Tour de France. The voluminous Stade de France, St-Denis-la-Plaine (tel: (08) 9270 0900; website: www.stadefrance.com), is the spectacular venue for international football matches and rugby Six Nations’ Cup matches. The heady days when France won the football World Cup at the stadium built for the event in 1998 and then the European Championship two years later in Rotterdam have been replaced by more modest achievements of late.

Meanwhile, domestic football matches take place at the Parc des Princes, 86 rue Regnault, 13th (tel: (08) 2507 5078; website: www.psg.fr), the base for the first-division Paris St-Germain football team, popularly known as PSG (website: www.psg.fr), and Le Racing (website: www.racingclubdefrance.org) rugby team. After a number of years in the wilderness PSG are back in the thick of things and qualified for the group stages of the UEFA Champions League 2004-2005. The sports venue for everything from ballroom dancing to judo is the Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy (POPB), 8 boulevard Bercy, 12th (tel: (08) 9269 2300; website: www.bercy.fr) to the east of the city centre.

The major horseracing events (the Prix de la Rpublique and the Grand Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe) take place in the Bois de Boulogne to the west of the city centre in October.

L’Officiel des Spectacles details sports events. Le Guide du Sport Paris, available at tourist offices and town halls, lists sports facilities. The Mairie de Paris (tel: (08) 2000 7575; website: www.paris.fr) offers information on municipal facilities.

Tickets for sporting events are available for purchase at FNAC Forum des Halles, 1 rue Pierre Lescot, 1st (tel: (01) 4041 4000; website: www.fnac.com) and various other FNAC ticket offices situated around the city. Virgin Megastore, 52 avenue des Champs-Elyses, 8th (tel: (01) 4953 5000; website: www.virginmega.fr), and online ticket agencies, Ticketnet (tel: (08) 9239 0100; website: www.ticketnet.fr) and Ticketclic (tel: (08) 2508 7000; website: www.ticketclic.fr) also sell tickets to sporting events.

Fitness Centres: A number of companies (such as Moving and Gymnasium) dominate the gym scene in Paris but these tend to be open to members only. Fitness centres open for one-off visits are listed in the Squash section below.

Golf: Golf Disneyland Paris, 77 Marne-la-Valle (tel: (01) 6045 6890; website: www.disneylandparis.com/fr/golf), 32km (20 miles), located east of Paris, has a 27-hole course, which is open all year round from 0830 at weekends and 0900 on weekdays. On weekdays, 18 holes cost 34, rising to 56 at the weekend. Yearly membership is also available.

Squash: Squash Montmartre, 14 rue Achille Martinet, 18th (tel: (01) 4255 3830; website: www.slot-montmartre.com), has four courts, saunas, fitness equipment and a restaurant. It charges 14 per person per half-hour. Club Quartier Latin, 19 rue de Pontoise, 5th (tel: (01) 5542 7788; website: www.clubquartierlatin.com), with squash, fitness and swimming facilities, charges 16 per hour.

Swimming: The underground Piscine Suzanne-Berlioux, Les Halles, 10 place de la Rotonde, 1st (tel: (01) 4236 9844), is extremely central and open daily, costing 3.80 per person. Aquaboulevard, 4 rue Louis-Armand, 15th (tel: (01) 4060 1010; website: www.aquaboulevard.com), has a selection of indoor and outdoor swimming pools, as well as seven large water slides, which are open daily; admission costs 20 (concessions available).

Tennis: To play on municipal courts, application for a Carte Paris-Tennis should be made at the Mairie (see above). Alternatively, visitors can simply turn up and hope for the best. Courts cost approximately 6 per hour. There are also private clubs, which often charge high membership fees. Forest Hill Tennis at Aquaboulevard (see Swimming above) is open daily and charges 23-31 per visit.

Shopping

The Parisian ideal is elegant rather than funky. Trends come and go but Paris is always at the forefront and there are few cities where you can find so many top-quality designers. These include some British designers – John Galliano at Dior, Julian McDonald at Givenchy and McDonald’s predecessor, Alexander McQueen, as well as that ever-controversial Frenchman, Jean-Paul Gaultier, with his own store near Bastille. The exclusive designer shops are in the 8th, enclosed in the golden triangle formed by avenue des Champs-Elyses, avenue Montaigne and rue Franois 1er and along rue du Faubourg St-Honor.

A less rarefied but typically Parisian shopping experience is to be had at the main department stores situated on boulevard Haussmann, 8th. These include Les Galeries, with its huge coloured dome, and Au Printemps. Mtro Temple or Republique take the bargain shopper to the cheapest department store in the city – Tati, 172 rue du Temple, 3rd (website: www.tati.fr). Cut-price designer gear can be snapped up at the Mouton Cinq Pattes, 8 rue St-Placide, 6th. The sales sweep through Paris in January and July.

Those who enjoy intimate, friendly boutiques should head for the Marais district, in the 4th arrondissement. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the gay quarter sells designer kitsch, while the winding rue des Rosiers, in the Jewish quarter, has plenty of young designers whose works are displayed at L’Eclaireur. This area is at its busiest on Sunday, with many shops closed on Saturday due to the Jewish sabbath. It is ideal for a quick falafel snack, while the best ice cream is for sale at Berthillon, 31 rue de St-Louis-en-L’Ile, 4th.

The Carrousel du Louvre, under the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard, is a good place for shoppers to find tasteful gifts but those determined to take home plastic Eiffel Towers should head for rue de Rivoli, home to tourist kitsch. The American-run Shakespeare & Co, 37 rue de la Bcherie, 5th, has the city’s widest selection of second-hand books in English. French books are best purchased at the city’s FNAC stores, one of which is at the shopping arcade, the Forum des Halles, 1st. Bouquinistes sell second-hand books, as well as prints, postcards and gifts, along the River Seine.

Expensive antiques are to be found at Le Louvre des Antiquaires, beside the Louvre on place du Palais Royal. For bric-a-brac, there are the renowned flea markets (marchs aux puces), including the Porte de Montreuil, 20th, which is open on Saturday, Sunday and Monday 0900-1800, and St-Ouen/Porte de Clignancourt, 18th, open Friday 0600-1400, Saturday 0830-1730, Sunday 1030-1800 and Monday 1030-1700. There are numerous morning food markets in Paris, while the Ile-de-la-Cit has one of the largest flower markets in Paris.

Many an eyebrow was raised a few years back when a number of homeless people were evicted from the remaining section of the old Bastille-Vincennes elevated railway and local artists were coaxed in. The end result today is the Viaduc des Arts, Avenue Daumesnil, a unique and atmospheric shopping venue where genuinely different designer creations flourish in a scene that is a world away from the hegemony of the malls and shopping centres. Some of the most interesting outlets include Malhia Kent at No.19, who weaves for the likes of Gucci and Dior, Yamakodo at No.65, with its range of fun and funky modern furniture and Astier de Villatte at No.107, who are renowned for their innovative pottery.

Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 0900/1000-1900/2000 and close between about 1200 and 1430 for lunch. Sales tax ranges from 5.21%-16.38%, varying widely between what are regarded as essential items and luxury goods. Non-EU visitors can obtain a tax deduction of 12-13% on purchases of over 175 in any one establishment, by obtaining a form at the relevant shop and presenting it to customs on departure. Global Refund (tel: (01) 4161 5151; fax: (01) 4834 6020; e-mail: taxfree@fr.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information and advice.

Culture

Parisians are almost as passionate about their culture as they are about their restaurants. The French government takes art and culture very seriously, pumping money into the arts, supporting French cinema against Hollywood imports, and embarking on grandiose grands travaux, such as the new Bibliothque Nationale de France, Quai Franois-Mauriac (tel: (01) 5379 5959 or (01) 5379 5379; website: www.bnf.fr). The Opra Bastille (see Music below) opened in 1989, on the bicentennial of Bastille Day, although the merit of its architecture and the quality of its productions have since been questioned.

Major venues, in addition to those detailed below, include the Palais des Congrs, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th (tel: (01) 4068 0005; website: www.palaisdescongres-paris.com), for opera, ballet and pop-star performances, and the enormous Palais des Sports, Porte de Versailles, 15th (tel: (01) 4828 4010; website: www.palaisdessports.com).

Tickets for concerts of all kinds can be purchased at FNAC Forum des Halles, 1 rue Pierre Lescot, 1st (tel: (01) 4041 4000; website: www.fnac.com), or FNAC Musique, 2 rue Charenton, 12th (tel: (01) 4342 0404). There is also the Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, 1st (tel: (01) 4316 4747; website: www.carrouseldulouvre.fr), located directly beneath the Louvre, or Virgin Megastore, 52 avenue des Champs-Elyses, 8th (tel: (01) 4953 5000; website: www.virginmega.fr). However long the queue, ticket touts at the Opra and concert venues are to be avoided due to high prices and the prevalence of worthless fake tickets.

Listings are to be found in Pariscope (website: www.pariscope.com) and L’Officiel des Spectacles. Classical concerts are listed in the monthly Le Monde de la Musique.

Music: The Paris Opra (tel: (08) 9289 9090; website: www.opera-de-paris.fr) performs ballet and opera at the Opra Garnier, place de l’Opra, 9th and Opra Bastille, place de la Bastille, 12th (Tickets cost 30-110). Large opera productions are also performed at the Chtelet Thtre Musical de Paris, 1 place du Chtelet, 1st (tel: (01) 4028 2840; website: www.chatelet-theatre.com). The varied programme at the Cit de la Musique, at La Villette (website: www.cite-musique.fr), is strongest in contemporary music and home to the internationally renowned Ensemble Intercontemporain (website: www.ensembleinter.com). It also features ancient music, jazz, chansons and world music. The Cit has two important venues – the Conservatoire National de Musique, 209 avenue Jean Jaurs, 19th (tel: (01) 4040 4545), and the Salle des Concerts, 221 avenue Jean Jaurs, 19th (tel: (01) 4484 4484). Big names in French contemporary and experimental classical music to listen out for are Pierre Boulez, Pascal Dusapin and Luc Ferrarie.

A series of orchestras, including the Orchestre Colonne (website: www.orchestrecolonne.fr), Orchestre Lamoureux (website: www.orchestrelamoureux.com) and Orchestre de Paris (website: www.orchestredeparis.com) are based at Salle Pleyel, 252 rue du Faubourg-St-Honor, 8th (tel: (01) 4561 5300). Other prestigious venues for classical music include the Salle Gaveau, 45 rue de la Botie, 8th (tel: (01) 4953 0507), Thtre des Champs-Elyses, 15 avenue Montaigne, 8th (tel: (01) 4952 5050; website: www.theatrechampselysees.fr), and the Thtre Musical de Paris, 1 place du Chtelet, 1st (tel: (01) 4028 2840; website: www.chatelet-theatre.com).

Theatre: The Comdie Franaise, 1 place de Colette, 1st (tel: (01) 4458 1515; website: www.comedie-francaise.fr), is the national theatre, renowned for its production of the classics. Thtre National de la Colline, 15 rue Malte-Brun, 20th (tel: (01) 4462 5252), plays contemporary French drama. New talent is sought out at fringe theatres, such as Guichet-Montparnasse, 15 rue du Maine, 14th (tel: (01) 4327 8861). Peter Brook is based at the Bouffes du Nord, 37 bis boulevard de la Chapelle, 10th (tel: (01) 4607 3450). The Odon, 1 place de l'Odon, 6th (tel: (01) 4485 4000; website: www.theatre-odeon.fr), hosts foreign-language productions.

Dance: The main ballet venue is at the Opra Garnier (see Music above). Major productions are also held at the prestigious Thtre de la Ville, 2 place du Chtelet, 4th (tel: (01) 4274 2277; website: www.theatredelaville-paris.com), where the works of high-profile choreographers, such as Karine Saporta, Maguy Marin and Pina Bausch, are frequently shown. The theatre has another venue, Les Abbesses, with the same contact details at 31 rue des Abbesses, 18th. The Thtre Musical de Paris (see Music above) hosts ballet companies from abroad.

Film: The first public film screening ever (‘Le train entrant en gare’) was shown by the Lumire brothers in Paris in 1895. Today, Paris remains an important cinema capital – in any given week, over 300 films are shown.

There is no English-language cinema in the city, however, most movies are shown in the original language, with French subtitles. UGC (www.ugc.fr) have a major presence in Paris with the city’s largest (18-screen) cinema, UGC Cin Cit Bercy, 2 cours St-Emilion, 12th (tel: (08) 9270 0000). There is also a 16-screen UGC Cin Cit Les Halles, place de la Rotonde, Nouveau Forum des Halles, 1st (tel: (08) 9270 0000). Although the multi-screen UGCs and Gaumonts are on the increase (many based on the Champs-Elyses and in Montparnasse), Paris is still teeming with small arthouse cinemas, clustered in the 5th and 6th arrondissements. Among these are Le Champo, 51 rue des Ecoles, 5th (tel: (01) 4354 5160; website: www.lechampo.com), near the Sorbonne, and Racine Odon, 6 rue de l’Ecole-de-Mdecine, 6th (tel: (0892) 68 9325), known for its all-night showings. Some cinemas are worth seeing just for their decor – one such is kitsch Le Grand Rex, 1 boulevard Poisssonnire, 2nd (tel: (01) 4508 9358; website: www.legrandrex.com). Recent movies Amelie or Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amelie Poulain (2001), directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet (of Delicatessen (1991) fame) and Moulin Rouge (2001), directed by Baz Luhrmann, were both set in Montmartre and took box offices worldwide by storm.

Cultural Events: Paris offers plenty of choice and a wide variety of lively festivals. Among these are the free, city-wide Fte de la Musique (21 June; website: www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr), the Festival du Film de Paris (early April; website: www.festivaldufilmdeparis.com) and the Festival d’Automne (September to December; website: www.festival-automne.com) contemporary dance event. Free concerts are held within the city’s churches during the Festival d’Art Sacr, in the weeks preceding Christmas.

Literary Notes : The written word and words uttered during long caf discussions on the Left Bank have done much to create the mythical Paris that visitors still hunt out today.

Victor Hugo’s historical novel The Hunchback of Notre-Dame (1831) is set in 15th-century Paris and his Les Misrables (1862) in the poverty-stricken Parisian underworld. Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast (1964) depicts the bohemian Paris of the inter-war years. Henry Miller’s Tropic of Cancer (1934) and Tropic of Capricorn (1939) portray a sexier city. A more reflective image is portrayed in Anais Nin’s interlocking works. For Nin, Paris allows the development of her sexuality and (perceived as equally sinful) creativity. George Orwell describes the poverty of the 1920s in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933).

Traces of literary heroes and heroines and their fictional creations are sought throughout the city – in the lingering smoke of the Caf de Flore and Les Deux Magots, boulevard St-Germain, 6th, where the existential discussions between Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus and Simone de Beauvoir used to rage. James Joyce used to drink at chic Le Fouquet’s, 99 avenue des Champs-Elyses, 8th, while such luminaries as Jean Jacques Rousseau, Voltaire and Oscar Wilde frequented Le Procope, 13 rue de l’Ancienne-Comdie, 6th. Ernest Hemingway dined at the La Cloiserie des Lilas, 171 boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th, still popular with the publishing world, and Samuel Beckett’s favourite haunt was Le Select, 99 boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th.

The place of literary pilgrimage par excellence is the Pre Lachaise Cemetery, presumed resting place of medieval lovers Ablard and Hlose. They lie in good company, along with the great 17th-century playwright Molire and fable-teller La Fontaine, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Champollion, Delacroix, Ingres, Gricault, Bizet, Balzac, Proust, Colette and Edith Piaf. Contemporary poet, singer and icon Jim Morrison was famously buried here in 1971. Heather Reyes’ Zade (2004) is set in Pre Lachaise and swirls around the ghosts of Jim Morrison, Marcel Proust and Oscar Wilde.

Nightlife

The temptation to make a beeline for the Champs-Elyses and Trocadro should be avoided unless visitors want to end up crammed alongside fellow tourists in overpriced bars with large egos but little atmosphere. The livelier action has now moved on to the likes of bustling Bastille, which may have been deserted by the real local cognoscenti, but still boasts plenty of colourful small bars, popular clubs and unique little drinking dens. These days anyone wanting to really mix it with the style crowd and have an ‘authentic’ Parisian night out should break east to raffish Mnilmontant, which boasts an increasingly sophisticated and eclectic nightlife scene that was kicked off by the legendary Caf Charbon on rue de Oberkampf, a street now overflowing with bars. The smart money is on Belleville being the next new ‘in’ place, though the scene in this rough-around-the-edges part of town is far less obvious and it is just that bit further from the centre.

Back in the heart of the city, the Marais has managed an impressive renaissance of late and now offers plenty of bars, chic cafes and a perhaps surprisingly active gay and lesbian scene. Pigalle is the seedy sex centre of Paris but home to some good music venues and the Moulin Rouge cabaret, 82 boulevard Clichy, 18th, where the cancan is still performed.

The minimum legal age for drinking alcohol (beer and wine) is 16 years of age, rising to 18 years for stronger drinks and spirits. The average price of a drink while out and about in Paris is 4, although prices can vary dramatically depending on the location. Bars are usually licensed until 0100 but this does vary according to the individual venue and area. Bouncers frequently turn potential punters away and many of the smarter clubs are (or claim to be) private. There is no sure way of gaining admission, although being foreign, dressed identically to everyone inside, accompanied by a regular or simply beautiful helps. Admission prices (usually around 15-20) often include one free drink. Clubs open at around 2300 and tend not to close until dawn; it is coolest to arrive around 0300, or at least after midnight.

Pariscope (website: www.pariscope.com) is one of the best sources of information for nightlife listings.

Bars: The lines between cafs and bars in Paris are very blurred with cafs where you can settle in with a beer and a croissant for breakfast and bars when you can enjoy a late night sandwich along with your cocktail. The 1990s craze for Irish and British pubs has to some extent run its course with the new focus on more funky and interesting bars that have more in common with East Berlin than the East End of London. With the exception of Anglo/Irish bars, beers on tap (bire la pression) are normally served as a demi (25cl).

The once trendy Buddha Bar, 8 bis rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8th, has lost much of its shine, with the bars in Mnilmontant now the place to see and be seen. Caf Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 11th, the bar that kicked the rejuvenation of the area is still going strong and has stayed at the head of the game by adding a club venue, while Le Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf, 11th, so called because of its toolbox decor, is one of most popular bars in the area with a grungy feel. Nearby Lou Pascalou, 14 rue des Panoyaux, 20th, is a relaxed place to hang out with some of the most unusual toilets in the city. The scene in Mnilmontant is constantly evolving so visitors are advised to just wander around rue de Oberkampf and explore some its side streets for the latest ‘in’ bar.

The Marais (3rd and 4th) is packed with a happy mlange of gay and straight bars. Vibrant gay bars include the Coffe Shop, 3 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, and Amnesia, 42 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th. Le Central, 33 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, is one of the city’s oldest gay bars, with a more sedate clientele. Paris’ sole gay-only hotel is situated above the caf. There are also a number of quirky little straight bars in and around rue Vieille-du-Temple, including La Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue du Trsor, 4th, with its ceiling decorated with Frisian cows and a lovely terrace, Au Petit Fer Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, named after its huge horseshoe-shaped bar, and L’Etoile Manquante, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th. Also in the Marais is the Web Bar, 32 rue de Picardie, 3rd, a silversmith’s atelier turned into a hip but relaxing cybernet haunt.

For genuine Scottish beer and televised sports in a relaxed Marais setting the Auld Alliance, 80 rue Francois Miron, 2nd, is the place to head. Anglophone ex-pats will also find safety in numbers at the Caf Oz, 184 rue St-Jacques, 5th, which serves a good range of draught and bottled beers, or The Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St-Denis, 2nd, a traditional British pub. A new branch of the Frog & Rosbif, 25 cour St-Emillion, has recently opened in up-and-coming Bercy.

Casinos: The Casino d’Enghien les Bains, 3 avenue de Ceinture, Enghien-Les-Bains (tel: (01) 3934 1300, website: www.lucienbarriere.com), is a 20-minute drive from Paris on the A15. Visitors must be over 18 years, carry a passport and be formally attired to gain admission to the table rooms, which costs 14. This is the only casino in Ile de France.

Clubs: Techno, house, garage and Latino are the popular sounds of Paris and, to a lesser extent, hip hop and drum‘n’bass. Top DJs play house tunes at Le Queen, 102 avenue des Champs-Elyses, 8th, a gay club that is still considered one of the best clubs in Paris despite the influx of tourists. Thursday and Saturday is gay only, with drag queens in profusion. Le Divan du Monde, located in the Pigalle district, at 75 rue des Martyrs, 18th, once hosted Toulouse-Lautrec but now draws a crowd that changes radically according to the evening’s programme – Brazilian, tango, indie, rock, house and hip hop nights alternate with top French and international DJs. Le Saint, 7 rue St-Sverin, 5th, which plays disco, house and salsa, is inexpensive and relaxed. Les Bains Douches, 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abb, 3rd, a former Turkish bathhouse transformed into the most pretentious of clubs, is enjoying renewed popularity under new ownership. Batofar, 11 quai Francois-Mauriac, 13th, is a fun little club housed in a boat on the Seine that boasts a wide range of musical styles.

Live Music: Le Divan du Monde (see Clubs above) hosts intimate pop concerts, providing a chance to see the stars close up. Live jazz is played by local and international high-calibre musicians at Le Bilboquet, 13 rue St-Benot, 6th, nightly (from around 2200 onwards). There is no admission charge but drinks are priced at approximately 20. A young, unsophisticated crowd is drawn to La Flche d’Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th, a converted station turned live-music venue, with a sticky, beer-stained floor on the edge of trendy Mnilmontant. Concerts run from Thursday to Sunday evenings and the music ranges from rock to blues or reggae and satirical French chansons. Chesterfield Caf, 124 rue La Botie, 8th, situated just off avenue des Champs-Elyses, is popular with ex-pats and hosts US rock and blues bands. To guarantee a seat, it is wise to book a table. Major rock concerts take place at the Palais des Congrs, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th. The Opus Jazz and Blues Restaurant, 167 quai Valmy, 10th, in the rapidly gentrifying Canal de Saint Martin area, offers good food and a eclectic selection of music, from aspiring Parisian youths through to more established acts.

City Statistics

Location: Ile-de-France region, France.
Country dialling code: 33.
Population: 2,107,700 million (city); 11,200,000 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: European majority, with North African, Indochinese and Basque minorities.
Religion: 90% Roman Catholic, 6% non-denominational, 2% Protestant, 1% Jewish, 1% Muslim (North African workers).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 4C (39F).
Average July temp: 19.5C (67F).
Annual rainfall: 642mm (25.2 inches).

Special Events

New Year’s Day, national holiday, 1 Jan, throughout the city
Salon International de l’Agriculture (International Agriculture Show) animal specimens from rural France displayed alongside regional produce (website: www.salon-agriculture.com), late Feb/early Mar, Paris Expo, place de la Porte de Versailles, 15th
La Nuit des Publivores (The Night of the Adeaters), 500 advertisements (publicits) are fted by 6,000 people in two night-long events (website: www.publivores.com), mid Mar, Grand Rex, 1 boulevard Poisssonnire, 2nd
Festival du Film de Paris (Paris Film Festival), late Mar/early Apr, Cinma Gaumont Marignan, 27 avenue des Champs-Elyses (www.festivaldufilmdeparis.com)
Le Marathon de Paris (Paris Marathon), early Apr, starts approximately 0900 on avenue des Champs-Elyses, finishes avenue Foch (website: www.parismarathon.com)
Foire de Paris (Paris Fair), fair for tourism, multimedia and gastronomy (website: www.foiredeparis.fr), late Apr/early May, Paris Expo, place de la Porte de Versailles
VE (Victory in Europe) Day, national holiday, May
Fte de la Musique (Musical Fair), free concerts throughout Paris (and the rest of France), 21 Jun, in the streets and various venues, such as Sainte-Chapelle, the Muse d’Orsay and Palais de Justice (website: www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr)
Gay Pride March, late Jun, along Rpublique and the Bastille plus club events
Bastille Day, national holiday with festivities and fireworks to commemorate the storming of the Bastille in 1789, 14 Jul
Paris Plage, Jul-Aug, stretch of riverside expressway turned into leisure oasis, banks of the Seine between Tuileries Tunnel and the Henri IV bridge
Grandes Ftes de Nuit de Versailles (The Night of Versailles Grand Feast), son et lumire display evoking the era of Louis XIV with costumed dancers and music, Jul, Aug and Sep, gardens of Versailles
Le Cinma en Plein Air (Open Air Cinema), free outdoor film festival, mid-Jul–end Aug, Parc de la Villette, 19th
Le Tour de France, the grand finale of the world-famous bicycle race, late Jul (finishing on last Sun of Jul), finishes on avenue des Champs-Elyses (website: www.letour.fr)
Journes du Patrimoine (Heritage Day), nationwide weekend festival; historic buildings, including the president’s residence and the Palais de l’Elyse, open their doors to the general public, mid Sep, various historic buildings
Festival d’Automne (Autumn Festival), international contemporary drama, dance and music festival, mid Sep-Dec, Thtre de la Ville, Odon and other venues (website: www.festival-automne.com)
Mondial de l’Automobile (Automobile World), biennial international motor show (website: www.mondial-automobile.com), late Sep-mid Oct (next in 2004), Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, 15th
Foire Internationale d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (FIAC – Contemporary Art Fair), late Oct, Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, 15th
Remembrance Day, national holiday with laying of wreaths, military parade and review of troops by the President of the Republic, 11 Nov, place Charles-de-Gaulle, 8th
Mois de la Photo (Photography Month), biennial photography exhibitions, late Nov (next in 2004), various museums and galleries throughout Paris
Fte du Beaujolais Nouveau (Nouveau Beaujolais Fair), first availability of the season’s Beaujolais Nouveau wine, third Tues of Nov, wine bars and cafs everywhere
Festival d’Art Sacr (Festival of Sacred Art), free concerts, Dec, various churches throughout the city
Rveillon (New Year’s Eve), crowds celebrate by the thousand, 31 Dec, along the Champs-Elyses

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 1
33cl bottle of beer: 2
Financial Times newspaper: 2.50
36-exposure colour film: 7.50
City-centre bus ticket: 1.40
Adult football ticket: From 20
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From 20

1 Euro (1) = 0.67; US$1.29; C$1.61; A$1.65
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005