World City Guide

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

Most restaurants include tax and a 12-15% service charge in their prices. If service is good, guests will often leave an extra 2 tip or the small change from their bill, if they pay in cash. If service is not included, it is customary to leave a 12-15% tip. The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include tax and service charge.

Gastronomic

L’Ambroisie
The atmosphere in place des Vosges (one of the most beautiful and intimate squares in Paris) exudes into the ultra chic L’Ambroisie, which is situated in a genuine htel particulier. Classic French cuisine is served to pure perfection in these refined interiors decorated with rich tapestries. The menu changes according to the best fresh produce available and prices are steep. Diners can expect such delights as sea bass with olive oil emulsion, chanterelle and boletus mushrooms, and millefeuille with crystallised rhubarb. Wines are likewise expensive but the range is exceptional. Some diners have complained that staffing levels and standards of service have suffered of late. Closed Sunday and Monday.

9 place des Vosges, 4th
Tel: (01) 4278 5145. Fax: (01) 4278 5145.
Price: 200. Wine: 100.

L’Arpge
Alain Passard has drawn on his family history to produce a restaurant renowned for superb, seasonal cuisine. His grandmother’s portrait hangs on the otherwise minimalist walls and it is her cooking and joie de vivre that is the source of Alain Passard’s inspiration. The restaurant is named in honour of his musical parents and to set the tone for the harmony of flavours. Passard’s menu places emphasis on fresh vegetables, fish and white meat. Dishes include lobster carpaccio with olive oil and caviar, fragrant stuffed tomatoes or strawberries scented with hibiscus petals. The only grumble is that the restaurant can be a touch on the cramped side so be careful what table you get. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

84 rue de Varenne, 7th
Tel: (01) 4705 0906. Fax: (01) 4418 9839.
E-mail: arpege@alain-passard.com
Website: www.alain-passard.com
Price: 300. Wine: 75.

Lucas Carton
Alain Senderens’ three-Michelin-starred restaurant is at the pinnacle of Parisian gastronomy, situated in a grand fin de sicle-setting in chic place de la Madeleine, amid a wealth of posh shops. The first of the Michelin-starred restaurants to serve wine by the glass, Senderen believes that each dish deserves a wine of its own to perfect the flavours, though the 65 glasses may put off those not dining on expense accounts. The wine list is outstanding, with vintage Bordeaux from the 1940s. A wide variety of cigars are also on offer – another way of prolonging the pleasure of the meal. Dishes include pan-fried chicken with cep risotto, roast duck with honey and spices, roast lamb with aubergines or pan-fried lobster served with polenta. No lunch Saturday and Monday. Closed all day Sunday.

9 place de la Madeleine, 8th
Tel: (01) 4265 2290. Fax: (01) 4265 0623.
E-mail: lucas.carton@lucascarton.com
Website: www.lucascarton.com
Price: 250. Wine: 200.

Pierre Gagnaire
This sumptuous restaurant has the reputation of being among the most exciting gastronomic addresses in Paris and it is certainly one of the most fashionable. Formerly based in St-Etienne, near the gastronomic capital Lyon, Gagnaire brought flavours of that region to Paris in his imaginative menus, which hold dear both tradition and innovation. A simple but refined decor, with spotless white tablecloths, makes the perfect setting for his challenging but impeccable cuisine. Specialities include supreme de poularde macre au lait d’amande (chicken supreme cooked in almond milk) and pesto de roquette sauvage (wild rocket pesto). Look out for the ‘grand dessert’, an indulgent dessert orgy that includes pistachio ice cream and an explosion of chocolate. Closed Saturday.

Hotel Balzac, 6 rue Balzac, 8th
Tel: (01) 5836 1250. Fax: (01) 5836 1251.
E-mail: info@pierre-gagnaire.com
Website: www.pierregagnaire.com
Price: 150. Wine: 60.

Restaurant Plaza Athne
Alain Ducasse was awarded three Michelin stars within eight months of first opening his Paris restaurant in 1996, at 59 avenue Raymond Poincare, 16th, where he took over from star chef, Joel Robuchon, after moving to the capital from Monte Carlo. In September 2000, Ducasse moved the restaurant to a chic new venue in the 8th, opening the Restaurant Plaza Athne, a sumptuously stylish venue with soaring ceilings, warm tones and splendid chandeliers. Dishes include creations such as langoustine avec une crme citronne (langoustine in a lemon cream sauce). Advance booking is strongly recommended. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Hotel Plaza Athne, 25 avenue Montaigne, 8th
Tel: (01) 5367 6500. Fax: (01) 5367 6512.
E-mail: adpa@alain-ducasse.com
Website: www.alain-ducasse.com
Price: 250. Wine: 46.

Business

Bistrot de l’Etoile
Some Parisian brasseries have become a little old fashioned and bistros are now all the rage for filling up late at night. Meals, such as duck foie gras with rocket salad, are served until 2330/2400, well after traditional restaurants have closed. Other highlights on the menu include langoustine ravioli with red peppers and a divine crme brule. The atmosphere here is best described as chic decontract – smart but relaxed, with a light and airy feel to the main dining room.

19 rue Lauriston, 16th or 75 avenue Niel, 17th
Tel: (01) 4067 1116. Fax: (01) 4500 9987.
Price: 60. Wine: 20.

Bofinger
Frdric Bofinger first set up a restaurant on this Bastille location in 1864. This convivial Art Nouveau brasserie exudes the unique atmosphere of Paris, as the business community forgets about the office for an hour or two, while tucking into classics such as steak tartare, salade mixte or shellfish. Other specialities include sauerkraut and lobster. The two- and three-course menus are excellent value at 21.50 and 31.50 respectively.

5-7 rue de la Bastille, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 8782. Fax: (01) 4272 9768.
Website: www.bofingerparis.com
Price: 45. Wine: 15.

Le Carr des Feuillants
One of the least understood chefs in Paris (perhaps because he avoids snobbery at any cost) Alain Dutournier brought his love of meat and fine fresh ingredients from the Basque country. The wooden interior of Le Carr des Feuillants is cosy but stylish with Murano glass chandeliers and contemporary artwork, though it is by any means as stylish or lavish as many of the city’s finest restaurants. Specialities include roast guinea fowl in a wild mushroom sauce or roast lobster with garlic and pepper nougatine, but this is really the place to enjoy a steak to remember. Fixed priced menus can be of varying quality, so it is best to stick to a la carte.

14 rue de Castiglionne, 1st
Tel: (01) 4286 8282. Fax: (01) 4286 0771.
Price: 125. Wine: 60.

Les Bouchons de Franois Clerc
Franois Clerc’s bouchons (the name of a traditional Lyonnais restaurant-bar) have captivated the French capital. Some have beautiful terrasses for dining al fresco. The rue de l’Htel branch has no terrace but it does have a wooden beamed interior, typical of traditional Lyonnais restaurants. On the menu are specialities from Lyon, such as cannelles (a kind of egg pastry that soaks up the flavour of fish or pork sauces), as well as standard bistro fare. An added boost is the wine – sold at cost price. No lunch Saturday. Closed Sunday.

22 rue de la Terrasse, 17th
Tel: (01) 4227 3151. Fax: (01) 4227 4576.
Website: www.lesbouchonsdefrancoisclerc.com
Price: 40. Wine: 20.

Branches:
12 rue de L’Hotel Colbert, 5th
Tel: (01) 4354 1534. Fax: (01) 4634 6807.
7 rue Boccador, 8th
Tel: (01) 4723 5780. Fax: (01) 4723 7454.
32 boulevard Montparnasse, 15th
Tel: (01) 4548 5203. Fax: (01) 4548 5217.

La Tour d’Argent
This temple of fine food has superb service, expensive but delectable dishes and, best of all, superb views onto Notre-Dame and the River Seine. The restaurant has a classic French interior and serves duck specialities, such as canard au sang (duck in blood). As it is so popular with tourists some dishes can be tamed a little so make sure your duck or steak is really served rare if that is what you want. The midday menu is especially good value for 65 and is always popular for business lunches. Advanced booking and insisting on a table with a view is highly recommended. Closed Monday. No lunch Tuesday.

15-17 quai de la Tournelle, 5th
Tel: (01) 4354 2331. Fax: (01) 4407 1204.
Website: www.tourdargent.com
Price: 200. Wine: 50.

Trendy

Buddha Bar
A giant Buddha, beautiful people and international cuisine are on the menu at the perennially popular Buddha Bar, the interior of which was designed by Miguel Cancio (who also took on the task of designing the trendy Man Ray). Located close to place de la Concorde, dishes include spiced chicken, seared tuna and tempura platters. It is not everyone’s cup of tea with some visitors leaving disappointed with a big dent in their wallets, but it is worth going just to see what all the fuss is about.

8 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8th
Tel: (01) 5305 9000. Fax: (01) 5305 9090.
E-mail: buddha.bar@buddha-bar.com
Website: www.buddha-bar.com
Price: 80. Wine: 25.

La Gare
This light and airy brasserie, set in a former railway station, cooks poultry to perfection. It serves a varied menu of traditional French cuisine, including chicken, lamb, duck and fish dishes, as well as large mixed salads. A fashionable hangout, it is well worth booking in advance, particularly if dining at the weekend.

19 chausse de la Muette, 16th
Tel: (01) 4215 1531. Fax: (01) 4215 1523.
Website: www.restaurantlagare.com
Price: 30. Wine: 10.

Georges
Georges, decorated in a style that matches the modern Centre Georges Pompidou, is the latest creation from the trend-setting Costes brothers. The restaurant’s location on the sixth floor of the Pompidou Centre draws huge crowds, who come to see the superb views across the city. A chic but trendy clientele dine here, while students often come to take a coffee break before diving back into their studies at the Pompidou library. The menu, which includes both French and international cuisine, changes frequently, although the duck, the lobster risotto and the chocolate tart are firm house favourites. Closed Tuesday.

Centre Georges Pompidou, 6th floor, rue Rabuteau , 4th
Tel: (01) 4478 4799. Fax: (01) 4478 4893.
Price: 55. Wine: 20.

Man Ray
Johnny Depp, Sean Penn, John Malkovich and Mick Hucknall back this East Asian-inspired bar-restaurant, where a chic, sexy clientele are served everything from sushi to Chinese stir-fry and classic European cuisine. Inside the restaurant, which was designed by Miguel Cancio (who also designed the Buddha Bar), Man Ray photographs hang on the deep, copper walls. Man Ray also boasts a sunken hall and wooden mezzanine. Not quite as trendy as it once was, but still a popular place to see and be seen.

34 rue Marbeuf, 8th
Tel: (01) 5688 3636. Fax: (01) 4225 3636.
E-mail: contact@manray.fr
Website: www.manray.fr
Price: 50. Wine: 30.

Spoon, Food & Wine
Star chef Alain Ducasse forsakes classic French food for an Asian-inspired international cuisine where anything goes but it is all blended beautifully together. Expect copious portions and a trendy crowd. Guests can take a quick bite to eat from Japanese-style bento boxes, which are filled with food, at the bar, or indulge in a leisurely meal in the main area. Dishes in this minimalist-style restaurant include tofu and noodles or spiced chicken in coconut milk. The wine list is extensive, with a particularly wide choice of Californian wines. Prior booking is less vital these days as the fanfare that greeted Spoon’s opening in 1998 has died down somewhat. Closed weekends.

14 rue Marignan, 8th
Tel: (01) 4076 3444. Fax: (01) 4076 3437.
E-mail: info@spoon.tm.fr
Website: www.spoon.tm.fr
Price: 30 (bar meal); 65 (restaurant meal). Wine: 35.

Budget

Crperie de Josselin
This Breton crperie serves delicious savoury and sweet pancakes, including ham and cream, spinach and egg with black pepper or banana and chocolate. Always packed and full of atmosphere, the restaurant, decorated in a traditional Breton style, is a good budget option.

67 rue Montparnasse, 14th
Tel: (01) 4320 9350.
Price: 12 (savoury crpe, sweet crpe and cider).

La Grande Mosque de Paris
This beautiful mosque, close to the Jardin des Plantes and Natural History Museum, is an exotic setting for a spicy North African couscous or grillades (spicy meat stew) with frites (chips), followed by a tiny glass cup of refreshing mint tea, accompanied by sweet pastries, packed full with honey and pistachios.

39 rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire, 5th
Tel: (01) 4535 9733. Fax: (01) 4535 1623.
Website: www.mosquee-de-paris.org
Price: 20. Wine: No alcohol served.

Galerie 88
This smoky little Moroccan restaurant, frequented by an arty young crowd, is just a step away from Notre-Dame, overlooking the quayside. The thick, split-pea soup is delicious – equally good is bread with cumin and the wide range of wholesome salads. Meals are served until 2400 daily.

88 quai de l’Hotel de Ville, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 1758.
Price: 20. Wine: 12.

Mimosa
For cheap, cheerful and central Parisian restaurants they don’t come much cheaper, more cheerful and more central than Mimosa. On sunny days there are a sprinkling of outdoor tables where diners can chomp through a hearty menu with the likes of caprese salad to start, steak with pepper sauce as a main and tarte tatin to finish. The house wine is very good value and very drinkable too. The only downside is that the interior can be a bit cramped when it is raining, but this is still one of the city’s best and most central budget options.

44 rue d’Argout, 2nd
Tel: (01) 4028 1575.
Price: 14. Wine: 10.

Web Bar
Tucked away in the Marais, the Web Bar is connected to a trendy but casual clientele, keen for a bite to eat (the salads are extremely good) or to see an exhibition, experimental performance or poetry reading. The food is light, including a cheese platter (with St Maure, Brie de Meaux and Roquefort) or cold-meat platter, served with raspberry and sesame jam and a mixed salad of with walnuts and apricots, toasted bread and butter. The cafe-restaurant area is downstairs and computers line the walls on the second level. Internet access is available for 1 per 15 minutes. A trendy address, there always seems to be a film crew catching the vibe or cultural happening. The Web Bar have also now opened another venue in Marseilles.

32 rue de Picardie, 3rd
Tel: (01) 4272 6655.
E-mail: contact@webbar.fr
Website: www.webbar.fr
Price: 25. Wine: 10.

Personal Recommendations

Iode
This central restaurant is a seafood lovers’ dream. The menu lavishly conjures up the likes of rocket salad laced with langoustines to start and a whole host of fish on the main menu. An emphasis on fresh ingredients and unfussy cooking styles lets the food speak for itself. The menu changes daily and is temptingly placed on the street outside. There are now two floors to this increasingly popular place, with the places to be either on the outside tables in warm weather or upstairs by the windows looking down on the action below.

48 rue d’Argout, 2nd
Tel: (01) 4236 4645.
Price: 50. Wine: 20.

La Coupole
This elegant brasserie originally served the market traders at Les Halles before it was moved to the suburbs. The restaurant continues to offer hearty traditional fare, including oysters, French onion soup with a cheesy crust, steaks and a choice of pork offal dishes, including the hallmark dish (grilled pigs’ trotters) all washed down with robust house wine from the owner’s own vineyard. La Coupole is strong on seafood too with the oysters particularly good. And there is an added bonus & it is open 24 hours a day. Also look out for 20% discounts for on-line bookings.

102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 14th
Tel: (01) 4320 1420.
Website: www.flobrasseries.com
Price: 40. Wine: 20.

Les Philosophes
This restaurant in the Marais is justifiably very popular so booking ahead is recommended. In summer there are a flurry of tables outside and a cosy interior awaits in the colder months. The outdoor tables are the perfect place to sit and watch the hectic Marais street life. Menus are creative with lots of set and a la carte options. The most famous starter is the tomato tart, a delicate and flavoursome concoction, while the steaks on the main menu are chunky and expertly cooked. Leave room for desserts too with a smattering of French classics such as crme brule and tarte tatin in generous portions.

28 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th
Tel: (01) 4887 4964.
Price: 45. Wine: 25.

Le Train Bleu
The grand old dame is one of the most atmospheric places to eat in the city. It is a brasserie that just oozes class, with seamless service and quality cuisine. It has the added bonus of looking on to the tracks of Gare du Lyon to one flank and out across the city on the other. Romanticised scenes of the Mediterranean destinations that the station used to serve adorn the walls and ceiling in an eatery that feels more like a palace than a brasserie with its lavish gilt and stucco work. The steak tartare is first rate and the 43 three course lunch is a steal with the likes of Lyon sausage to start, roast duck with raspberries to follow and the dessert of the day to end. The price also includes half a bottle of wine.

Gare de Lyon, 12th
Tel: (01) 4343 0906. Fax: (01) 4343 9796.
Website: www.le-train-bleu.com
Price: 50. Wine: 23.

Murano Urban Resort
This oasis on the edge of the Marais offers something that is all too rare in Paris these days: a modern, stylish place to eat that does not compromise on the plate or with service. Unlike many ‘chic’ Paris restaurants, a smile awaits as you enter and the menu features the likes of duck foie gras and green tomato jam or crayfish and coconut soup to start. Mains include roasted cod with tomatoes and black olives or a substantial shoulder of lamb, while the chocolate mousse is an excellent choice for dessert.

13 boulevard du Temple, 3rd
Tel: (01) 4271 2000.
Website: www.muranoresort.com
Price: 45. Wine: 35.