World City Guide

Mini Guide of Oslo

City Overview

Oslo has a spectacular setting at the head of a 110km (70-mile) long fjord. It is the oldest of the Scandinavian capitals, founded in or around 1050 by Norwegian king Harald Hdrda, who established it on the site of an earlier Viking settlement. Following construction of the imposing castle and fortress of Akershus Slott, by Hkon V Magnusson, in the late 13th century, Oslo’s importance grew and it developed into a major trading centre, dealing primarily with Germany and central Europe.

Following numerous lesser conflagrations, the predominantly wooden city burnt to the ground in 1624. King Christian IV rebuilt it on its present site, to the northeast of the castle, and it was renamed Christiania in his honour – a name it kept for 300 years. By the mid-1800s, the Norwegian capital had grown into a major financial, military and administrative centre. The subsequent development of shipping, industry and forestry helped give it the dominant role that it still enjoys in the nation’s economy.

United with Denmark, from 1380 to 1814, and from then on with Sweden, Norway finally gained independence in 1905, and Oslo is to stage a major arts festival in June 2005 to mark this centenary (see Special Events).

The best approach to Oslo is by sea, sailing up the fjord (where shrimpers and small sailing boats jostle with ferries and merchant ships) to where the city sprawls out from its compact centre around the quays to the flanks of the surrounding hills. Although not noted for grand architecture, Oslo’s history lives on in medieval buildings like Akershus Slott, which stands across a park from the austere angular bulk of the 1930s-style Rdhus (City Hall). A highlight is the Slott (Royal Palace), which elegantly dominates the view west along Karl Johans Gate past the Storting (Parliament).

Despite its status within Scandinavia, Oslo gradually faded in international influence until the discovery of North Sea oil in the 1960s. This contributed to its current resurgence, a factor reflected in its bustling docks and the lively retail and leisure sector around Aker Brygge, a transformed former warehouse area along the quay.

The population of just over half a million is small for a major city, but with its late-night shopping, crowded cafs, pubs, restaurants and theatres playing to full houses, Oslo has developed a cosmopolitan feel. However, in this respect, Bergen, its predecessor as the nation’s capital, still has the edge, due to its closer involvement with the international oil industry.

The climate is surprisingly mild for the high latitude. In summer, temperatures often hover around 20C (68F) but in winter, they can fall to well below freezing point. Winter is dark and gloomy, although there is always snow on the numerous ski trails close to the city. During the long summer days, when the sun drops only briefly below the horizon and it never gets truly dark, the inhabitants spend much of their time outdoors. Summer is perfect for exploring the parks and hiking paths, or relaxing on the beaches of the fjord.

Oslo cannot help its dark sub-arctic winters but in recent years it has largely shaken off its former dull and somewhat parochial image without losing its air of informality. More liberal drinking laws have helped create a lively nightlife and oil money provides support for arts and culture, making it a thriving and vibrant city.

Getting There By Air

Oslo Gardermoen (OSL)
Tel: 81 55 02 50. Fax: 64 81 20 01.
E-mail: passasjerservice@osl.no
Website: www.osl.no

Situated 47km (29 miles) north of Oslo, Gardermoen is Norway’s main international airport. Built in 1998 and designed to cope with up to 17 million passengers each year, it is currently servicing a little under 14 million. Users are wise to allow a little extra time – the layout of the terminal entails quite a lot of walking (or running if connections are tight).

Airport facilities: These include airport hotels, bank and currency exchange office, ATMs, cafs, bars, restaurants, various shops (including newsagents, a pharmacy and gift shop) and a travel agency. There are also lounges, a VIP lounge, silent room/meditation area, first aid room and a tourist information desk. Car hire firms with representation in the terminal building are Avis, Europcar, Budget, Hertz, SIXT and Rent-a-Wreck.

Transport to the city: Flytoget (tel: 81 50 07 77; website: www.flytoget.no) is the express train from the airport to Oslo S station. The journey time is 19 minutes and departures are every 10 minutes. Flytoget operates from the airport between 0536-0036 and from Oslo S station 0445-0005. The fare is NOK150 one way (NOK75 concessions). SAS Transport Service (tel: 22 80 49 71; website: www.flybussen.no/oslo) operates a bus service from the airport to Oslo centre (journey time – 45 minutes), costing NOK110 one way, or NOK160 return. These are available to serve all departing and arriving flights. Special fixed price airport taxis can be ordered in advance from Oslo Taxi Central (tel: 23 23 23 23; website: www.oslotaxi.no) and Norges Taxi (tel: 08000; website: www.norgestaxi.no). There are also regular taxi ranks outside the arrivals entrance. The fare to central Oslo starts at NOK600.

Sandefjord (Torp) (TRF)
Tel: 3342 7000. Fax: 3342 7001.
E-mail: post@torp.no
Website: www.torp.no

Although situated some 118km (74 miles) to the southwest of Oslo, the independently operated Torp airport has grown in importance since closure of the capital’s centrally situated Fornebu Airport in 1998. It is much smaller than Gardermoen but offers low-cost alternative international routes, as well as some domestic connections.

Airport facilities: Torp is small, however, there are shop, bar and cafeteria facilities. Car hire is available from Budget, Hertz, Europcar and Avis.

Transport to the city: A coach service, in association with Ryanair, links Torp with Oslo’s city centre and serves all incoming and outbound Ryanair flights – buses depart Oslo three hours before flight time. Journey time – approximately 2 hours. There are regular trains to the capital from Sandefjord station, hourly from 0500-2200 on weekdays. The station is approximately 8km (5 miles) from the airport, and a taxi journey to the station takes about 10 minutes.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Driving conditions in and around Oslo are generally good with well-maintained roads, and some dual carriageway. Elsewhere in Norway, particularly in the mountainous areas, roads are less good and should be used with great care. It is also essential to check that mountain passes are not closed by snow. Major routes are designated by the European ‘E’ prefix – for example, the roads from Oslo to Trondheim are the E3 and E6. Other roads take the ‘R’ (Riksvei) prefix. All roads leading into Oslo have toll booths. Speed limits on roads outside town vary between 80 and 100kph (50-60mph) and, in urban areas, are set at 50kph (30mph). Some residential streets are designated with a 30kph (19mph) limit and are often equipped with vicious unmarked speed-humps – drivers should proceed with care. Additionally, away from ‘priority’ routes (designated by yellow diamond signs) drivers should beware of vehicles suddenly pulling out from side turns on the right – they officially have right of way and fault falls on the driver who hits them.

Traffic drives on the right. The minimum age for driving is 18 years and drivers must be in possession of full national driving licence or an International Driving Permit. Licences must be carried at all times when driving. If bringing a vehicle into Norway, registration documents and a valid certificate of insurance are required. A Green Card, while not compulsory, is desirable. The wearing of seatbelts is compulsory and at least dipped headlights must be illuminated at all times. Children under 12 years must travel in the back of the car. Drink driving is severely dealt with (short prison sentences are common) and the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.02%.

NAF – Norges Automobil-forbund or Norwegian Automobile Association (tel: 2234 1400; website: www.naf.no) provides further information and offers reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in many other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
NAF 8100 0505

Routes to the city: The main highways into Oslo are the E6 from Lillehammer, Trondheim and the north, the E16 from Bergen in the west and the E18 from Stockholm in the east and on to Stavanger in the west. The resund Bridge between Sweden and Denmark, opened in 2000, makes it possible for travellers to drive from Norway to Denmark without using a ferry.

Coach services: The bus station, Bussterminalen (tel: 23 00 24 00), Schweigaards gate 8, is located under the Galleriet shopping centre, behind Oslo S station. Nor-Way Bussekspress (tel: 81 54 44 44 from abroad, 82 02 13 00 within Norway; website: www.nor-way.no) operates a network of domestic and international long-distance routes and tickets are available for purchase at the station or on the bus. Destinations include larger Norwegian towns and European destinations such as Copenhagen, Stockholm, Warsaw, Berlin and Hamburg.

Getting There By Rail

Norges Statsbaner – NSB (tel: 81 50 08 88; website: www.nsb.no) is the national rail provider, operating the local and long-distance services from Oslo. Trains are generally clean and punctual. Catering service is minimal, so travellers are advised to bring their own food and drink if embarking on a lengthy trip. Speeds away from the immediate Oslo area are low, due to difficult terrain. Oslo S station or Oslo Central (tel: 81 50 08 88), located on Jerbanetorvet, is the terminus for long-distance routes. Facilities such as cafs, a bar and shops are available at this station. Local commuter trains operate both from here and the Nationaltheatret T-Bane (Underground) station, located at Karl Johans Gate.

Rail services: The Dovre Line connects Oslo with Trondheim. The Bergen Line goes from Oslo to Bergen, along Northern Europe’s highest railway, while the Southern Line runs from Oslo to Stavanger along the south coast. Trains to Copenhagen (via Gothenburg) leave three times daily. From there, it is possible for travellers to get a train to London via the ferry from Ostend, Belgium. Trains also run to Hamburg and direct to Stockholm.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Oslo has a comprehensive and efficient public transport network of trains, buses, trams, ferries and underground (T-Bane), mostly operated by Oslo Sporveier. Trafikanten, Jerbanetorget 1 (tel: 177; website: www.trafikanten.no), is a one-stop shop for information on all public transport in and around Oslo, and is located in front of the Central Station.

Some 50 separate bus lines and eight different tram lines cover the city. These can be boarded opposite Oslo S station on Jerbanetorget, with tickets available from the driver. The Oslo T-Bane consists of five underground lines. Tickets are available from vending machines at the various stations. The entire public transport network is detailed on a free map, which is available from Trafikanten, post offices and most stations.

Bygdyfergene Skibs A/S (tel: 23 35 68 90; website: www.boatsightseeing.com) operates seasonal ferries (Apr-Oct) from City Hall to Bygdy Island, where many museums are situated. Other small ferries operate from Vippetangen, just behind Akershus Slott, to all the harbour basin islands.

Taxis
Taxi ranks can be found throughout the city, mainly near the shopping centre, city squares and outside Oslo S station. When it is very busy or late at night, long waits may be experienced at ranks. Cabs are operated by Oslo Taxi (tel: 02323; website: www.oslotaxi.no) and Norges Taxi (tel: 08000; website: www.norgestaxi.no) and advance bookings can be made any time. However, in peak travel periods, taxis may take up to 30 minutes to arrive. Hailing on the streets is possible, although not within 100 metres (110 yards) of a registered taxi rank. If the light is on, the taxi is available for hire.

Driving in the City
Driving in Oslo is fairly straightforward. However, the city is relatively small and has an excellent public transport system, so a car is really unnecessary, unless longer trips are planned. Rush hours (0700-0900 and 1500-1800) are best avoided and navigating can be difficult, as there is a complicated one-way system. The Stor Olso (Greater Oslo) map, available from petrol stations, should help, if studied carefully in advance.

Another plus point for public transport is that parking is a nightmare in Oslo, with many places having a one-hour maximum stay. Illegal parking or overstaying the allotted time is dealt with severely – fines start at NOK500. Once a parking spot has been found, a ticket must be obtained from the on-street ticket machine and displayed in the vehicle windscreen. Controlled city centre street parking spots are free to Oslo Card holders (see Sightseeing). There are 24-hour car parks at C J Hambros Plass, Prinsens gate, Chr. Krohgsgate, Oslo Plaza, Asker Stasjon and Skyen Stasjon.

Car Hire
The major car hire providers are Avis, Munkedamsveien (tel: 81 53 30 44; website: www.avis.no), Budget, Munkedamsveien (tel: 81 56 06 00; website: www.budget.no), and Hertz, Holbergsgate (tel: 67 16 80 00; website: www.hertz.no). The minimum age for hiring a car is 21 years and a credit card will be required as security. The driver must have a national driving licence (in Roman script), which he/she has held for a minimum of one year. Insurance is mandatory and tends to be included in the cost of the hire.

Bicycle Hire
Information about cycling can be obtained from Syklistenes Landsforening, Storgata 23c (tel: 2247 3030; website: www.slf.no). Bicycles can be rented from Ski og Sykkelstasjon, Inkognitogate 28 (tel: 22 55 95 70; website: www.skisykkel.no), and A/S Ski Service, Voksenkollen Stasjon (tel: 22 13 95 04).

Business

Business Etiquette
Norwegians are fairly informal in dress, but a smart business suit is advisable for meetings. It is customary to shake hands with everyone present, on arrival and departure. Punctuality is important. Appointments should be made well in advance and adhered to. If running late, it is important to telephone and explain why. Business cards should be exchanged after the preliminary introductions, after which it is straight down to business. Norwegians are direct and ready to negotiate, with the minimum of small talk. Trust is important and, in negotiation, Norwegians are less likely to indulge in tactical dealing and will be more interested in the facts of the product than in personality or social skills. Visitors should make a fair pitch with room for a little adjustment but not produce an initial offer that could subsequently be seen as a negotiating tactic, as this may be perceived as dishonest. Similarly, expensive gifts should be avoided, as they may be perceived as a bribe. Small items bearing the company logo would be suitable and bringing in the duty-free alcohol allowance would be well appreciated. In a country where the price of alcohol is prohibitive, this action could earn friendship for life (well, almost!).

Comments about the high cost of living and cold weather in Norway are often perceived as criticism and Norwegians, probably because of the country’s history, rarely react positively to humour at the expense of themselves, their country, its system or anyone they perceive to be at any sort of disadvantage. ‘Political correctness’ is considered desirable. However, they are friendly and informal in personal terms – first names are generally used from the outset.

Business hours are normally 0800 to 1600, with employees leaving their offices promptly, to return home for middag (dinner), normally eaten at around 1700 or 1800. However, an invitation to either dine out or eat at the home of a business colleague will normally be scheduled slightly later. Luncheon is not a Norwegian custom – they take a short break for a snack at around 1100-1130.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
For such a comparatively small city, Oslo is remarkably well supplied with museums and galleries. The compact city centre retains much of its medieval layout, amid acres of greenery and parks. Within walking range of the centre, there are pleasant districts through which to browse, enjoying the street life and the shops. The area immediately to the west of the Oslo S station (Oslo Sentralstasjon), however, is best avoided after dark.

Aker Brygge, at the centre, has a quayside bustle. To the west, on the edges of the Vigeland Sculpture Park, Frogner is dotted with cafs and interesting boutiques. On the eastern edge of town, in Tyenbadet Park, lies the Munch Museum, which houses the vast collection left to the city by Edvard Munch, as well as the Botanical Gardens and the Tyenbadet swimming pool complex. The peninsula of Bygdy, with its fascinating collection of museums and desirable residential areas, is a short ferry ride away from the City Hall. The Rdhus (City Hall), which lies midway between the Royal Palace and Akershus Slott, is a short walk from Oslo Cathedral, the Domkirke, and the nearby market, Stortorvet. It is surrounded by museums and theatres and is a perfect starting point for an exploration of the town centre or for undertaking a cruise on the fjord from nearby Pier 3.

Wherever one walks in Oslo, there is another lovely view – a panorama of the fjord or the mountains or the fresh greenery of the parks. It is essentially a comfortable city – easy to walk around and small enough to explore the outer fringes in one day of walking. At the edges of the city, the great outdoors encroaches, with skiing and walking trails a mere 15 minutes’ train ride from the centre.

Tourist Information
Rdhuset (City Hall)
Fridtjof Nansens plass 5
Tel: 24 14 77 00. Fax: 22 42 92 22.
E-mail: info@visitoslo.com
Website: www.visitoslo.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1600 (Oct-Mar); Mon-Sat 0900-1700 (Apr and Sep); Daily 0900-1900 (Jun-Aug).

Another tourist information office, with summer late opening (daily 0800-2300, May–Aug; Mon-Sat 0800-2300 Sep; Mon-Sat 0800-1700 Oct-Apr) is located at Oslo Sentralstasjon, Jernbanetorget 2.

Passes
The Oslo Pass probably represents the best value for tourists. As well as free admission to all the museums, the pass offers unlimited local travel on all forms of transport, free entrance to Tyenbadet and Frognerbadet swimming pools and free parking in the municipal car parks, along with price reductions on sightseeing trips and many other discounts, such as for cinemas, restaurants, car hire and souvenir shops. Cards can be purchased for one, two or three days, at a cost of NOK195, NOK285 and NOK375 respectively (concessions are available) and are available at the Tourist Information office, hotels, Narvesen newsagents and various other outlets.

Key Attractions

Akershus Slott and Festning (Akerhus Palace and Fortress)
King Haakon V Magnusson ordered the building of Akershus Slott on a commanding headland, in 1299. Although damaged, repaired, fortified and renovated over the centuries, the ancient walls and central medieval tower of this imposing fortified palace still dominate the sea front. The town was rebuilt within the fortress walls after the great fire of 1624 (the fortress was originally outside the city). The 17th-century renovations of the castle, with magnificent banqueting halls and reception rooms, stand above dank medieval dungeons and underground passageways. The grounds also house Norges Hjemmefrontsmuseum (Resistance Museum), with poignant displays related to the Nazi occupation of Norway.

Akershuskaien
Tel: 23 09 35 53 (palace) or 23 09 31 38 (museum).
Website: www.visitoslo.com
Opening hours: Festning open Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat-Sun 1100-1700 (Jun-Aug), Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat-Sun 100-1600 (Sep-May); Slott open Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1230-1600 (May-Sep); guided tours of the Festning available daily (Jun-Aug).
Admission: Free (fortress); Charge (palace and museum).

Oslo Rdhus (Oslo City Hall)
On the waterfront overlooking the fjord, this modern twin-towered building, opened in 1950 to celebrate the city’s 900th anniversary, dominates but does not particularly enhance the landscape. However, the colourful frescos and murals of the interior, designed by Norwegian artists, redeem the solid exterior. Themes of Norwegian history and culture predominate, depicting daily life and Viking mythology, although references to conflict are inescapable in a building long delayed but finally built in the aftermath of World War II. This is where the Nobel Peace Prize is presented each December.

Fridtjof Nansens Plass
Tel: 23 46 16 00.
Website: www.visitoslo.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1600 (Sep-Apr); Daily 0830-1700 (May-Sep).
Admission charge May-Sep, free with Oslo Pass.

Nasjonalgalleriet (National Gallery)
Norway’s National Gallery houses a respectable pre-1945 international art collection, including Gauguin, Picasso, Cezanne and El Greco. But the Norwegian collection, with its emphasis on works from the ‘National Romantic Period’, is undoubtedly the main interest. Several rooms are given over to the work of Edvard Munch, including a version of Skrik (The Scream). The 19th-century Romantic paintings of Dahl, Tidemand and Gude, such as Bridal Voyage in the Hardanger Fjord, depict the spectacular Norwegian landscapes of forest and fjord, while the museum continues to collect modern Norwegian artists.

Universitetsgata 13
Tel: 22 20 04 04.
Website: www.nasjonalgalleriet.no
Opening hours: Mon, Wed and Fri 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2000, Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1100-1600.
Admission free.

Oslo Domkirke (Cathedral)
Consecrated in 1697, the cathedral has been subject of several renovations over the centuries. The current baroque style interior dates from 1950, when the city was celebrating its 900th anniversary. It does, however, incorporate several original features including the altar screen, pulpit and font, which had hitherto been on display at the Museum of Applied Art. Regular evening concerts and a bookshop also feature.

Stortorget
Tel: 23 31 46 00.
Website: www.oslodomkirke.no
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600 (May-Sep); Daily except Tue 1200-1800; Tue 1000-1600 (Sep-May).
Admission free.

Kunstindustrimuseet (Museum of Applied Art)
Founded in 1876, the Kunstindustrimuseet boasts collections of Norwegian and foreign handicrafts, fashion and design dating from as early as the seventh century. Highlights include 16th and 17th century tapestries, silver, ceramics and furniture. There are galleries dedicated to royal costumes, Asian items and design.

St Olavs Gate 1
Tel: 22 03 65 40.
Website: www.kunstindustrimuseet.no
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 1100-1500; Sat-Sun 1200-1600.
Admission free.

Bygdy
A short ferry crossing from central Oslo to the peninsula of Bygdy transports visitors into Norway’s varied maritime past. All the attractions on Bygdy are within 10 or 15 minutes’ walking distance of one another.

One of Europe’s biggest open-air museums, the Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum) is a walk through Norway’s geography and history, featuring a variety of period buildings that have been transported from all over the country. Turf-roofed farms and barns in one section give way to the streets of the Old Town, complete with shop, houses and early petrol station. A five-minute walk away, the elegant Oseberg, excavated in 1904 and dating from about 800, is the finest of the ships at the Vikingskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum). The museum also contains finds from burial chambers, where two skeletons once lay amid their riches and jewels. The biggest of the ships, the Gokstad, is the best preserved. However, the burial chamber had been looted. The intricate patterns (which scroll and twist all over the ships, the jewellery and the artefacts) all testify to the links with the Celtic nations where the Vikings traded and raided.

The Norsk Sjfartsmuseum (Norwegian Maritime Museum) portrays the pivotal role played by the sea in Norway’s history, from Vikings to fishing to oil tankers, with magnificent model boats, film footage, artefacts and paintings. Outside, a war memorial recalls the Norwegian sailors who perished in World War II, beside a replica of the Gja, the first ship to sail through the North West Passage. Fjord tours aboard a veteran steamship are offered in summer. Nearby, at the Frammuseet, is the 1892 polar vessel, Fram, in which Fridtjof Nansen sailed toward the North Pole, and Roald Amundsen to the Antarctic. The Kon-Tiki Museum houses Thor Heyerdahl’s famous balsa raft, Kon-Tiki, and reed raft, Ra II, as well as other items, including Easter island statues (Moais) and a stuffed whale shark.

Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum)
Museumsveien 10
Tel: 22 12 37 00.
Website: www.norskfolke.museum.no
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); Mon-Fri 1100-1500, Sat-Sun 1100-1600 (Sep-May).
Admission charge, free with Oslo Pass.

Vikingskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum)
Huk Aveny 35
Tel: 22 13 52 80.
Website: www.ukm.uio.no/vikingskipshuset
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (May-Sep); daily 1100-1600 (Oct-Apr), closed public holidays.
Admission charge.

Norsk Sjfartsmuseum (Norwegian Maritime Museum)
Bygdynesveien 37
Tel: 24 11 41 50.
Website: www.norsk-sjofartsmuseum.no
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (mid-May-Sep); Sun-Wed 1030-1600, Thurs 1030-18 (Oct-mid-May).
Admission charge, free with Oslo Pass.

Frammuseet (Fram Museum)
Bygdynesveien 36
Tel: 23 28 29 50.
Website: www.fram.museum.no
Opening hours: Vary between daily 0900-1845 and 1100-1445, according to time of year.
Admission charge, free with Oslo Pass.

Kon-Tiki Museum
Bygdynesveien 36
Tel: 23 08 67 67.
Website: www.kon-tiki.no
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1745 (Jun-Aug); daily 1030-1600 (Oct-Mar); daily 1030-1700 (Sep and May).
Admission charge, free with Oslo Pass.

Further Distractions

Munch Museet (Munch Museum)
The Munch Museum, to the east of the city centre, lies in the broad parklands of Tyenhagen. It hit the news in 2004 when two of the most famous works were stolen, but its collection of other works by Edvard Munch is extensive. Changing exhibitions feature differing aspects of it.

Tyengaten 53
Tel: 23 49 35 00.
Website: www.munch.museum.no
Admission charge.
Please note: The Munch Museum is now closed until June 2005. It has been closed for extensive security work following the theft of 'Skrik' (The Scream) earlier this year.

Holmenkollbakken Ski Museum
Open all year round, the Holmenkollen Ski Museum covers over 4,000 years of the history of skiing. There is a ski simulator and the chance to enjoy views over the capital from the top of the observation tower. Also, a restaurant is located on the hill.

Kongeveien 5
Tel: 22 92 32 00.
Website: www.skiforeningen.no
Admission charge.

Ibsen Museum
Norway’s best-known poet, Henrik Ibsen, lived in this Oslo house from 1895 until his death in 1906. His office is preserved exactly as he left it. Admission by guided tour only, all year round, with special additional tours offered at certain times.

Arbins Gate 1
Tel: 22 12 35 50.
Website: www.ibsenmuseet.no
Admission charge.

Oslo Reptilpark
With more than 100 species including lizards, snakes, dwarf crocodiles and spiders, the Oslo Reptile Park is an unusual diversion in the city centre. Snake feeding, every Tuesday at 1700, is a highlight of the week.

Storgata 26
Tel: 22 17 05 22.
Website: www.reptilpark.no
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission charge, free with Oslo Pass.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The following organisations operate scheduled and bespoke guided tour services for individuals and groups in and around the city: Oslo City Museum ‘Know the City’ tours (tel: 23 28 41 70; website: www.oslobymuseum.no) are available on fixed dates, starting from the museum in Frogner Park; Oslo City and Nature Walks (tel: 41 31 87 40; website: www.oslowalks.no) offers regular scheduled walking tours of the city and the surrounding countryside, plus ‘ghost tours’; Oslo City Walks (tel: 22 28 94 59 or 22 14 49 74; website: www.oslocitywalks.no) runs scheduled themed tours departing on weekday mornings from the main tourist office; Guideservice (tel: 22 42 70 20; website: www.guideservice.no) and Oslo Guide Bureau (tel: 22 42 28 18; website: www.osloguide.no) are the central bookings agencies for licensed guides, primarily servicing the groups market.

Bus and boat tours
Btservice Sightseeing A/S (tel: 23 35 68 90; website: www.boatsightseeing.com) offers a comprehensive choice of bus and boat tours. These range from a basic 50-minute boat tour on the fjord, departing hourly, to the seven-and-a-half-hour ‘Grand Tour’ combined bus and boat tour. The company also offers a three-hour evening sailing ship cruise in July and August, which includes a shrimp buffet. Departures are from Rdhusbrygge 3, in front of the City Hall. City Sightseeing (tel: 22 95 54 14; website: www.citysightseeing.com) offers a range of themed coach tours departing daily except May 17 from Nationaltheatret.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Vigelandsparken (Vigeland Park): Located on the western outskirts of the city, Vigeland Park is Norway’s most visited attraction, annually welcoming over a million people. It can be reached on foot, from the city centre, along Frognerveien, in less than an hour. However, it is tempting for visitors to linger longer by the cafs and boutiques of the attractive Frogner area. Buses 20, 45 and 81 and trams 12 or 15 provide a quicker link. The park is a monument to the artist Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943), who spent 40 years creating the sculptures in granite, cast iron and bronze, which now adorn it. From the entry through the huge wrought iron gates, the first sculptures are the bronze figures on either side of the Vigeland bridge. There are 200 works in total – the most famous of which is the Angry Boy, a chubby youngster stamping his foot. Beyond the bridge, the Fountain is a large saucer-shaped pool supported by six giants with water spilling down around them. At the centre of the park, the Monolith is a mass of human bodies, young and old, carved from a single column of granite, 14m (46ft) high. Around it are groups of people relating to one another in various ways – playing, cuddling, comforting or talking. There are many more sculptures to be seen, both in the park and in the Vigeland Museum (tel: 23 49 37 00; website: www.vigeland.museum.no), where Vigeland’s sketches and plaster originals are on display.

For a Whole Day

Norway in a Nutshell: The ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ excursion by train, boat and bus provides a spectacular glimpse of Norway’s scenery within a day. The train departs from Oslo S station at 0811, reaching Myrdal station, at 866m (2,841ft), with its snow-covered peaks, sheer rock faces and streams plunging down the abyss. The idea of taking a train down through this terrain is unimaginable, however, in a magnificent feat of engineering, the Flm Line descends to sea level along around 24km (15 miles) of winding track, precipitous inclines and deep tunnels. From picturesque Flm, the trip continues by boat to Gudvangen in the innermost reaches of the Sognefjorden, through the narrow passage of the Nryfjorden, the narrowest fjord in Europe. The bus to Voss then takes the mountain road, with perilous hairpin bends, through more magnificent mountain scenery, including dramatic waterfalls at Stalheimskleiven. From Voss, the train returns to Oslo at 2213. It would be impossible to get a more comprehensive overview of the Norwegian landscape in one day. There is a second option which goes via Bergen, involving the night train back to Oslo and arriving in the capital early the following morning. Tours are operated by Fjord Tours A/S (tel: 81 56 82 22; website: www.norwaynutshell.com). NSB (tel: 81 50 08 88; website: www.nsb.no) also provides further information and tickets.

Sport

Shopping

Some bargains can be found in the less specialised shops, particularly for general goods such as clothing. Star buys include knitted knitwear, pewter, ceramics and glassware, traditional knitwear and handmade reindeer skin boots.

The main shopping districts are in Frogner, which is the place for antiques, art galleries and food shops. Bogstadveien (website: www.bogstadveien.no) which runs between the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in the centre, boasts shops, market stalls and department stores of every conceivable description. Aker Brygge, across the water from the Tourist Office at Vestbanen, is Olso’s first big shopping centre (website: www.akerbrygge.no). The biggest shopping mall is Oslo City (website: www.oslocity.no), on Stenersgata, near Oslo S station, while Paleet, Karl Johans gate 39-41, with its marble-lined atrium, is the most ostentatious. Good shops for crafts are Husfliden, Lille Grensen 7 (website: www.husfliden.no/oslo), with its huge selection of handmade goods, including knitwear, pewter, ceramics and national costume, or Norway Designs, Stortingsgate 28 (website: www.norwaydesigns.no), which has the largest selection of work from Norwegian folk artists. The Oslo Sweater Shop, SAS Hotel at Tullins gate 5, has one of the best selections of sweaters in the city, while William Schmidt, Karl Johans Gate 41, has been specialising in sweaters and souvenirs since 1853.

There is an open-air market, Stortorvet, in the square of the same name, every day between 1000-1600, selling general goods, such as clothing, souvenirs and flowers, and an indoor market offering antiques, handcrafts, jewellery and the like in Basarhallene, close to the cathedral.

Most shops are open 0900-1700, Monday-Wednesday and Friday. Thursday is late opening, until 1900, while early closing is generally at 1500 on Saturday. Shopping centres are open until 2000 on weekdays and 1800 on Saturday. Tax-free shopping is available at some 3,000 shops, although a minimum purchase of NOK310 is necessary to qualify. Partial VAT refunds can be claimed at the airport on departure. In Norway, the VAT (locally known as MVA) stands at 24%. Further information can be obtained at the Global Refund website (www.globalrefund.no).

Culture

Oslo, as one would expect of a capital city, has a lively and varied arts scene, and regularly attracts internationally-known artists to its stages and concert halls. Norwegians are proud of their cultural heritage, no doubt partly due to their centuries of domination by Denmark and Sweden.

Tickets to virtually all performances in Oslo, from concerts to sporting events, can be purchased at any post office. Tickets can also be ordered from Billett Service (tel: 81 53 31 33; website: www.billettservice.no or www.ticketmaster.no), to be picked up at the post office later or can be mailed to addresses abroad.

Music: The Oslo Philharmonic Orchestra presents two concerts weekly (except in July and in the first part of August) in the Konserthuset, Munkedamsveien (tel: 23 11 31 00; website: www.oslokonserthus.no), in the centre of the city. The Norwegian Opera, Storgaten 23 (tel: 23 31 50 00, bookings 81 54 44 88; website: www.operaen.no), also in the centre of town, offers daily performances of operas and ballets, from the beginning of September through to May. The Radio Orchestra and the Norwegian Chamber Orchestra present concert series in various venues in the city, as does the Oslo Sinfonietta (tel: 22 42 70 95; website: www.oslosinfonietta.no), which has been dedicated to presenting contemporary music since 1985. The old Aula of the University of Oslo, Karl Johansgate (tel: 22 85 95 55), has excellent acoustics, making it one of the most sought after venues for musical events. Also popular is Gamle Logen, Grev Wedels Plass (tel: 22 33 44 70; website: www.logen.no), composer Edvard Grieg’s concert hall, now restored to its original glory. The State Academy of Music, Gydas Vei (tel: 23 36 70 00; website: www.nmh.no), presents the most extensive programme of concerts in Oslo, most of which are free, although some are not open to the public. The Oslo Cathedral Choir sings both contemporary and traditional pieces, giving occasional concert performances, as well as participating in services. Other concerts are also occasionally staged in the cathedral.

Theatre: General information about Norwegian theatre can be found at www.teaternett.no. The ornate, hundred-year-old National Theatre of Oslo, Stortings plass 15 (tel: 22 00 14 00; website: www.nationaltheatret.no), presents mainly Norwegian plays. The International Ibsen Stage Festival takes place here every other year. The National Theatre has two stages in this historic building and another in the Torshovteatret, Vogts gate 64, in the east of Oslo, where the company presents more experimental work. The other major company in Oslo is the Norwegian Theatre, Kristian IV’s Gate 8 (tel: 22 42 43 44; website: www.detnorsketeatret.no), which performs in the second form of the Norwegian language, Nynorsk (new Norwegian). Oslo Nye Teater, Rosenkrantzgate (tel: 22 34 86 80; website: www.oslonye.no), presents a variety of genres on its four stages, Hovedscenen, Centralteatret, Cafescenen and Dukketeatret (puppet theatre).

Dance: In common with much of central Europe, Norway has a strong tradition of folk dance, featuring mazurkas and polkas. International and Norwegian performers regularly appear at Dansens Hus, Kristian IVs Gate (tel: 81 53 31 33; website: www.dansenshus.com). In the summer there are twice weekly performances of folk dancing at the Konserthuset, (see Music). On Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday in July and August, a traditional ‘Norwegian Evening’ including folk dance, is staged at the Norsk Folkemuseum, on Bygdy (see Sightseeing). The Norwegian National Ballet performs at home, at the Norwegian Opera, Storgaten 23 (tel: 23 31 50 00, bookings 81 54 44 88; website: www.operaen.no), and tours extensively, featuring top Norwegian dancers and guest performers from abroad. It presents a varied repertoire, featuring both traditional and contemporary pieces. International and Norwegian performers regularly appear at Dansens Hus.

Film: General information about what’s on in Oslo cinemas can be found at www.oslokino.no. There are numerous cinemas in central Oslo including the Colosseum, Frdidtjof Nansens vei , the Eldorado, Torggata 9, and Vika Kino, Ruselkkveien. The central booking line for all the mainstream cinemas is 82 03 00 00. Films in Norway are shown in the original language with subtitles, with the exception of children’s films, which are usually overdubbed. Alternative and classic films are shown at Norsk Filminstitutt, Dronningens gate 16 (tel: 22 47 45 00).

Literary Notes: Literature thrives in Norway, although relatively little of it has been translated into English. Among the best known Norwegian writers who lived and worked in Oslo are Bjrnstjerne Bjrnson, who was the first Norwegian writer to be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1903. His great friend and rival, Henrik Ibsen, never received that honour, although posterity has been kinder to him. Like Bjrnson, he was not a native of Oslo but moved there in 1850, writing two plays, Catilina, a tragedy, and The Burial Mound, in that first year. He had hopes of studying to become a doctor, however, after failing the university entrance examinations in 1851, Ibsen moved to Bergen to work in a small theatre. By 1857, he was back as director of the new Norwegian (Norske) Theatre and then later of the Christiania Theatre. In 1864, Ibsen received an award for foreign travel from the government and travelled abroad for the next 27 years, returning to Norway only for brief visits. In the 1870s, he worked with composer Edward Grieg on the premiere of Peer Gynt (1867). He returned permanently to Norway in 1891 and died in Oslo on 23 May 1906.

Knut Hamsun was the second Norwegian writer to receive the Nobel Prize, in 1920. Originally from the Central Valley, he moved to Oslo in 1878, where he lived in poverty for a while, before going off to wander the United States of America. His later life was shadowed by his support of the Nazis. Two of his most famous novels are Hunger (1890) and Growth of the Soil (1917). In contrast, Sigrid Undset, who grew up in Oslo and wrote her early novels there, was a member of the resistance and an outspoken critic of the Nazi regime. Her work was banned by the Nazis and she was forced to flee in exile to America, until the war was over. She was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1928. Her most famous book is Kristin Lavransdatter (1920-1922), a historical novel set in Norway in the 14th century.

The best known contemporary writer is Jostein Gaarder, who received the Norwegian Literary Critics award in 1990 for The Solitaire Mystery. His 1991 novel, Sophie’s World, about the history of philosophy, has been translated into 40 languages and made into a film.

Nightlife

Nightlife, in the sense that most people understand, arrived comparatively late in Norway. For centuries, family life was the lynchpin of Norwegian society, and people tended to socialise at home. Draconian alcohol controls, including a form of prohibition in the early 20th century, did not encourage going out.

Since the late 1980s though, with relaxation of drinking laws, it became possible to drink until 0200. Many pubs and clubs opened to take advantage of the change in legislation.

A publication called What’s On in Oslo has the most comprehensive venue listings and is free from hotel foyers and tourist offices, but good first port of call is Rosenkrantz gate, a street teeming with bars, music pubs and other nightspots. Many nightclubs are located on and around Karl Johans gate. Oslo nightlife is generally relaxed, with neat smart-casual clothing good for everywhere but the most expensive restaurants.

Drinking alcohol in Norway is still, however, a prohibitively expensive business – a half-litre of beer will cost up to NOK60 and a 40ml shot of spirit even more. The minimum drinking age is 18 years for beer and wine and 20 years for spirits. Distilling spirits at home is illegal, although that doesn’t deter production of a form of moonshine called ‘hjemmebrent’, a lethal concoction of distilled sugar and yeast widely available on the black market. The national drink is Akevitt, a fiery spirit flavoured with herbs. Many Norwegians go out late on Fridays and Saturdays after a ‘vorspiel’ (pre-party) involving drinks at home, so the street atmosphere from 2200 on the weekends can be lively, to say the least.

Bars: The Dubliner, Rdhusgata 28, is a typical ‘Irish’ themed bar, as is the Kilkenny Inn, vre Slottsgate. Similarly, the Scotsman, Karl Johans gate, is popular with ex-pats and visitors and also offers the adjacent Angus Steakhouse. English is more often spoken than Norwegian at The Belfry, Lille Grensen 7. A recent arrival in town is an Australian theme pub, Down Under, in Fridtjof Nansens plass. In summer, there is a choice of open-air bar/restaurants along the quaysides of Aker Brygge, in front of Akershus Festning. But again these tend to stretch the traveller’s budget somewhat. Stravinsky, Rosenkrantzgate 17, is a swanky venue for those who don’t mind a bit of ‘clubbing’ thrown in – there is a disco night every Wednesday. The Kristiania Bar and Caf, right by the central station in Jernbanetorget, is a cavernous and rather elegant venue that gets absolutely packed on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Oslo, as gambling is illegal in Norway, other than through the state-run lottery, football pools and horse-racing schemes, for which tickets can be purchased in the ubiquitous ‘kiosker’, small shops also selling newspapers, sweets, hot dogs and soft drinks.

Clubs: Skansen, Rdhusgate 25 (website: www.skansen.no), is known as a ‘real’ house venue, and although relatively small hosts international DJs on a regular basis. Sikamikanico, in Mllergate, offers a choice of house, techno and similar music genres. Gotham Nights, Bjerregaardsgate 68, offers something a little different than the usual techno/house combination, with regular live music for the ‘goth’ fraternity. Tiger Tiger, a relatively new venue at Torggata 5, which has become rapidly popular with the mainstream clubbing crowd.

Live Music: Stortorvets Gjstgiveri, Grensen 1, is a lively traditional jazz joint featuring ragtime and New Orleans-style bands. Galleria, Kristian IV’s Gate 12, features a disco and a live jazz club, while Oslo Spektrum, Sonia Henies Plass 2 (website: www.oslospektrum.no), is where all the visiting international big names play. Skuret Kulturpub, Christian Krohgs gate 2 (website: www.skuret.no), offers a regular programme of rock bands and music-related quiz nights.

City Statistics

Location: Norway.
Country dialling code: 47.
Population: 550,000.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 230 volts AC, 50Hz; two-round-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: -4.3C (24.3F).
Average July temp: 16.4C (61.5F).
Annual rainfall: 1,045mm (41 inches).

Special Events

Oslo Church Music Festival, Mar, Oslo Domkirke (Oslo Cathedral) (website: www.oslokirkemusikkfestival.no),
Nordic World Cup Skiing, Mar, Holmenkollen (website: www.skiforeningen.no),
May Day Celebrations, 1 May, Norwegian Folk Museum
Nasjonaldagen (Norwegian National Constitution Day), national holiday with a parade of flag-waving adults and children, led by various bands, to see the Royal Family on the castle balcony, 17 May, Royal Palace
Hundrersmarkering (Norwegian Centenary of Independence), Jun 3-13 2005, various venues Europride Oslo 2005, Jun (website: www.europride.no)
Norwegian Wood Rock Festival, three day outdoor rock festival featuring major international and Norwegian artists, Jun, Frogner Park
Norway Cup, Aug, world’s biggest junior football tournament, Ekebergsletta Sports Centre (website: www.norway-cup.no)
Oslo Jazz Festival, Aug, various venues in the city centre (website: www.oslojazz.no)
Oslo Chamber Music Festival (Oslo Kammermusikkfestival), Aug, various venues in the city centre
Oslo Half-Marathon, early Sep, city centre
ULTIMA Oslo Contemporary Music Festival, 6-9 Oct 2005, various venues in the city centre (website: www.ultima.no)
Lighting the Christmas Tree, huge tree lighting ceremony with music and frivolity, Nov, University Square
Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony, the winner is announced at a private ceremony but there are a parade and concert to celebrate, early Dec, Rdhus

Cost of Living

1 Norwegian Kroner (NOK1) = 0.08; US$0.15; C$0.19; A$0.20; 0.12
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005