World City Guide

Mini Guide of Mumbai (Bombay)

City Overview

Mumbai is a city of extreme contrasts, of great prosperity and abject poverty, of 21st-century technology and medieval squalor, epitomised by the destitute and crippled lying in rows beneath bright, electronic advertisements for dotcom companies. It boasts the finest collection of Victorian buildings anywhere in Asia and a myriad of temples and mosques. Yet 42% of its population live in slums - the highest percentage for any large Indian city. Mumbai is also congested with people (it has a population of approximately 15 million, which is rising relentlessly) its streets are clogged with traffic, its air is foully polluted by the barely controlled emissions of its factories and vehicles, and many of its buildings are slowly crumbling. However, the city still has much to offer. Mumbai is a colourful (the saris, the bazaars, the Indian sunlight), vibrant, energetic and friendly city, with a varied and fascinating history and many reasons to face the future with confidence.

Once Bombay (the city was renamed after the Hindu goddess Mumbadevi in 1995, although both names are still widely used), Mumbai is a peninsular that juts out southwest from the Indian subcontinent into the Arabian Sea. It has a hot, humid climate, which is only partly relieved by the annual arrival of the monsoon, between June and September. Originally, Mumbai was a group of seven separate islands. Gradually the islands merged into a single peninsula as land was reclaimed from the sea, although some of the former islands still lend their names to parts of the modern city - Colaba, for example.

Until the arrival of the Portuguese at Bombay in 1509 (they coined the original name, which is a corruption of the Portuguese for ‘good bay’) the islands were home to the Koli fishermen and to a community of Buddhist monks. The Portuguese established a trading base and, for more than a century, dominated the region. In 1661, the Portuguese colony passed to Britain, as part of the marriage settlement between Charles II and Catherine of Braganza. From then until 1858, Bombay was governed by the East India Company, whose raison d'etre was trade and profit. In 1858, following the suppression of the Indian Mutiny, control of British India passed from the East India Company to the Crown, where it remained until Independence in August 1947. It was during this 90-year phase that the modern city took shape. The demolition of the old Bombay fort, in the 1860s, was the precursor to the redevelopment of the British city, or what is now the centre of the city - the area referred to as ‘Fort’. Similarly, the extensive 1920s and 30s land reclamation along Back Bay provided the space for the development of the Marine Drive area of the city, now one of the most important parts of Mumbai.

From its earliest days an important entrepot, Mumbai today is the financial centre of India, home to the country’s largest stock exchange and the heart of its banking industry. It handles nearly a third of India’s foreign trade and is host to a large number of foreign multinationals. It is an important centre of the gem trade and film industry - Bollywood - is a national institution. For many visitors, the city is only a point of arrival, a springboard for the south or the architectural glories of the north. But to pass through Mumbai without tarrying a while is to miss one of the world’s great cities, as worthwhile and idiosyncratic as any on earth.

Getting There By Air

Mumbai (Chhatrapati Shivaji) International Airport (BOM)
Tel: (022) 2836 6700/67.
Website: www.mumbaiairport.com

Mumbai International Airport is located 30km (19 miles) north of the city centre at Sahar and is a major gateway for India, handling 37% of the country’s international passenger traffic, more than any other airport in India. Mumbai handles flights from 31 airlines, which fly to the major cities in Asia, the Far and Middle East, some destinations in Europe (such as London and Paris) as well as New York and Chicago.

Airport facilities: At terminals 1A and 1B, services include hotel reservation counters, bureaux de change and an ATM, first aid and medical facilities, tourist information, car hire (Europcar and Avis), shopping and bars. At 1B there is also a childcare room. There is a free coach transfer service between terminals.

Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available at the airport; the journey time to the city centre takes about 90 minutes. There are also several prepaid 24-hour taxi services available in the arrival hall. Public transport buses operate from the airport, however, taxis are the most reliable, easy and comfortable way for visitors to get to the city centre.

Mumbai Domestic Airport
Tel: (022) 2615 6600.
Website: www.mumbaiairport.com

The domestic airport is 26km (16 miles) north of the city centre, at Santa Cruz. It provides connections to 39 cities in India. Six million passengers use the airport every year, representing some 25% of total domestic air travel.

Airport facilities: Car hire (Europcar and Avis), tourist information and bars are available.

Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available at the domestic airport. Journey times and fares to the central and southern parts of the city are roughly the same as for the international airport.

Approximate flight times to Mumbai: From London is 9 hours; from New York is 16 hours; from Los Angeles is 21 hours and 30 minutes; from Sydney is 12 hours and 45 minutes; from Toronto is 16 hours; from Tokyo 12 hours and from Singapore 8 hours 30 minutes. Within India, from Delhi is 2 hours; from Bangalore is 1 hour 30 minutes, from Chennai (Madras) is 1 hour 50 minutes and from Calcutta 2 hours 20 minutes.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Driving in India can be extremely hazardous and is not recommended to tourists, especially considering that there is no speed limit for drivers of passenger cars – motorcycles, taxis, trucks and buses are constrained to a certain velocity, depending on the vehicle type. The surfaces are often in poor condition, adherence to any rules there may be is patchy and accidents are numerous.

Mumbai is an important junction on the National Highway network of India, which links it to all major towns and cities in the country. National Highways are numbered. Traffic drives on the left. Drivers must be over 18 years and foreigners require an International Driving Permit. The legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.03%. Those intending to take their own car to India must obtain a carnet from one of the international motoring associations (such as RAC or AA) before entering the country. This document represents an undertaking that the car will not remain in India for more than six months. Most European motor insurance policies do not extend to India and motorists are advised to seek cover from an Indian insurer, as insurance is compulsory.

Western India Automobile Association (tel: (022) 2204 1085; website: www.wiaaindia.com) provides information.

Emergency breakdown service: Western India Automobile Association (see above) provides a limited breakdown service within the city for members.

Routes to the city: National Highways 3, 4, 6, 8, 9 and 17 provide connecting routes between Mumbai and the rest of India. In particular, route 3 goes to Indore and Gwalior, 4 to Pune, and 8 to Ahmedabad and Delhi. Visitors should bear in mind that the distances in India are colossal. Pune is the nearest city, 170km (111 miles) away. Delhi, however, is 1,460km (913 miles) and Calcutta 2,836 km (1,773 miles) away. Flying is usually preferable to driving.

Driving times to Mumbai: From Pune - 3 hours. Because the distances are so vast and the quality of the roads so variable, trying to estimate driving times to other Indian cities would be pure guess work, which is why we have omitted them here.

Coach services: The Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (tel: (022) 2307 6622 or 23696109/10; website: www.msrdc.org) operates bus services from Mumbai to other towns and cities within the same and adjoining states. Destinations include Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Goa, Indore, Pune and Surat. The main terminal is located opposite Central Station, on Belalsis Road (tel: (022) 2307 6622).

Getting There By Rail

Mumbai is very well served by its railways, both for suburban and national routes. Western Railway (tel: (022) 2300 5959; website: www.westernrailwayindia.com) and Central Railway (tel: (022) 2265 6565) are the two companies that operate rail services from Mumbai. A computerised enquiry system for arrivals and departure information is available (tel: 132 or 135). During the rush hour (0700-1100 and 1600-2100), trains are extremely crowded and best avoided. Western Railway services depart from Mumbai Central Station, Boman Behram Road, while Central Railway services depart from the magnificent CST building (formerly Victoria Terminus), on Dr D Navroji Road, at corner of St George’s Road. Both stations offer basic facilities.

Rail services: Central Railway operates over 1,000 services per day, while Western Railway handles more than 900 services daily, carrying approximately 2.8 million and 2.6 million passengers per day respectively. Destinations include Central Railway services to Lucknow (journey time - 26 hours), Hyderabad (15 hours), Nagpur (14 hours) and Pune (3 hours 25 minutes) and Western Railway services to Jaipur (journey time - 17 hours 30 minutes), Delhi (17 hours) and Ahmedabad (7 hours).

Getting Around

Public Transport
There is no underground system in Mumbai but the city is well served by its suburban rail network (see Getting There By Rail). There is also a large number of bus routes run by BEST (Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport) (tel: (022) 2414 3611 or 2414 6262, for 24-hour enquiries; website: www.bestundertaking.com), which provides transport within the city and suburbs. The buses are extremely cheap (the average city-centre fare is Rs8) but it is difficult to determine where the buses go, since the route maps (available at newspaper stands) are virtually indecipherable. Buses are often very crowded and seats hard to come by. Some routes (Bus 1, 65, 66 and 202) operate a round-the-clock service. A small minority of the buses are fitted with air conditioning. Tickets are best purchased from the conductor and although concessional fares are offered, no passes are currently available.

Taxis
Mumbai has a huge number of delightfully dated taxis (in a black and yellow livery) plying for trade on the streets. For the foreign visitor, they represent the best way of getting around the city, especially as auto-rickshaws (a staple form of urban travel elsewhere in India) are banned from the centre of Mumbai. Taxis can be hailed on the street and drivers are reasonably knowledgeable of the geography of the city. All taxis have a meter; these are, however, out of date, so each driver carries a conversion table, with which to compute the correct fare. It is important to ensure that the meter is zeroed before starting the journey. Fares are inexpensive: a journey in the centre of the city will rarely cost more than Rs100. Taxis can also be hired for the day. This is a good way for tourists to see the city and it should not cost more than Rs1,000 for a full day. For those who prefer a higher degree of luxury, Cool Cabs (tel: (022) 2824 6216) provides more modern, air-conditioned taxis, which can only be ordered by telephone.

Tipping etiquette in Mumbai's taxis can be somewhat confusing for the tourist. Some drivers demand a tip quite openly, while others are content with the metered or negotiated fare. A 10% tip is generally acceptable.

Driving in the City
Driving in Mumbai is not recommended to tourists. The streets are chaotic and poorly signposted. There is a huge amount of traffic and road users range from a man driving a single cow to vast trucks. There do not seem to be any rules (although red lights are respected) and the horn is the most commonly-used aid to driving. The road surface in many streets is in a poor state of repair and large potholes are commonplace. Would-be drivers should be warned that many Indian motorists regard the use of lights at night as wholly optional; this potentially is very dangerous.

Parking is a problem on Mumbai's streets and an increase in underground parking lots, around such areas as Shivaji Park, Nare Park and Oval Maidan, have been proposed to accommodate shopping, offices and parking plazas. Many hotels provide indoor parking for their patrons.

Car Hire
Drivers in India must be over 18 years, although many car hire companies will insist on a higher minimum age. To hire a car, drivers will need to present an International Driving Permit and insurance must be arranged at the time of hiring. Avis at the Oberoi Hotel (tel: (022) 2285 7518; website: www.avis.com) provides self-drive hire cars. Royal Cars (tel: (022) 2283 2928) supplies mid-range cars.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Scooters and bicycles are popular forms of transport on the crowded streets of Mumbai and there does not seem to be any requirement for cyclists to wear helmets. Scooters are available for short and long term buy back options on well maintained and reliable scooters, from Premjis, 205, Lamington Road (near Apsara Cinema (tel: (022) 2309 9313/9417; website: www.premjis.com). There are also various places, usually small, which hire bicycles cheaply and visitors keen to do so should enquire at a garage.

Business

Business Etiquette
For the visiting foreign businessperson, the principal advantage is that English (now well established as the international language of business) is the lingua franca. This is despite, or perhaps because of, the large number of languages that are spoken in India - there are 18 official ones and some 1,600 minor ones. Indeed, English is so widely spoken that most meetings will be conducted in this language and any lapse into a local tongue should perhaps raise a visitor’s suspicion that the speaker is not to be trusted. The business card is an important part of business life in India. Some people carry cards that are in effect a compressed CV and many are printed in two languages. A suit is considered the proper form of business dress in India. Business hours are generally 0930/1000 to 1700/1730.

Business entertaining is an integral part of Indian corporate life and potentially fraught with difficulty for the uninitiated. Foreign visitors should remember that Indians only eat with the right hand, although the left may be used to hold a plate or utensil. An invitation to an Indian home for dinner will be for 2030 to 2130, although many of the guests will not arrive until much later and dinner may not be served until after 2300. However, once dinner is over, the party is at an end and the guest may depart without giving offence. Drinking, especially at lunchtime, should be avoided until visitors are certain of the host’s opinion on the subject. Even then, alcohol should always be consumed in moderation.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Mumbai’s main areas of interest are located on the more southerly parts of the peninsula, where the European settlers established their enclave and where the various local communities took root. The centre of Imperial Bombay is the area known as Fort, after the fortifications that protected the British settlement. Starting in the 1860s, the Governors of Bombay embarked on an ambitious programme of building development, a process that continued under official and private patronage well into the 20th century. As a result, Mumbai boasts a stunning array of High Victorian buildings in a fascinating range of architectural styles, which reflect the then prevailing British passion for the Gothic as well as the influence of Indian and Saracenic styles. The result is a breathtaking affirmation of the wealth, panache and confidence of Imperial Bombay. There are numerous examples for the visitor to look at, but Mumbai University, Standard Chartered Bank Building and Municipal Corporation Building give a flavour of what can be expected.

At the same time as the sahibs were building their modern Imperial monuments in the Fort, the local communities were expanding rapidly to the north. This part of the city is every bit as characteristic of the modern city as the Fort is - some would say more so. Its narrow, twisting streets and raucous bazaars, all noise, activity and thronging with people, are a complete contrast to the spacious, tree-lined boulevards of the more southerly areas.

Superimposed on these two distinctly different parts of Mumbai is the modern city: the 1930s developments along Marine Drive and on Cumbala Hill, the modern office blocks to the west of the Maidans and the tower blocks that line the southern end of Back Bay. Further north, up the peninsula, are the suburbs of Mumbai and it is here that the worst of the shanty towns and slums are located. These are, sadly, as much part of modern Mumbai as the more glamorous areas to the south. The poverty, squalor and degradation are truly shocking.

Mumbai was a city built on toleration (prosperity was considered more important than religious homogeneity) and this is reflected in the number and range of places of worship that can be found in the city. The Anglican cathedral, Catholic church and Scottish kirk in Mumbai rub shoulders with countless Hindu temples, many mosques and other Parsee and Buddhist temples. Together, they form a rich and varied heritage.

Most attractions are fairly central and can be reached on foot. For those that cannot, visitors tend to take taxis, as they are relatively cheap and infinitely more convenient than public transport.

Tourist Information
Government of India Tourist Office (GITO)
123 Mararishi Karve Road, Churchgate, Mumbai 400020
Tel: (022) 2207 4333/4 or 2203 3144/45.
E-mail: indiatourism@vsnl.com
Website: www.incredibleindia.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat 0830-1400.

There also are offices at the international and the domestic airports. Many of the individual States of India have their own tourist office in Mumbai. The GITO provides contact details.

Passes
There are currently no tourist passes available in Mumbai.

Key Attractions

Gateway of India
Built by the British to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary's visit to India in 1911, the Gateway of India stands as a monument to the importance of Mumbai as a port when the steamship was king. Designed by George Wittet, it replaced the temporary structure that the architect had erected for the Imperial visit itself and was completed in 1917. The archway is built from honey-coloured basalt, in a style derived from Gujarati architecture of the 16th century. For many in the age of steam, the Gateway and the nearby Taj Hotel were their first and their last sights of India. Nowadays, it attracts a colourful crowd of tourists, hawkers and beggars.

Apollo Bunder seafront.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST)
(formerly Victoria Terminus)
Now the headquarters of the Central Railway, this magnificent terminus building, commonly known as CST, was completed in 1888, for the Great Indian Peninsular Railway, to designs by the architect FW Stevens. It is one of the world’s grandest railway stations, quite the equal of New York’s Grand Central Station or London’s St Pancras station. Built in the Italian Gothic style, it looks more like a cathedral than a railway station, an impression strengthened by the tall dome crowned with a statue representing ‘Progress’. In the public parts of the station, the Victorian arches soar splendidly above the hurrying throng, but its real glory is the main staircase. Sadly, this is in a part of the building to which the public is generally denied access, although a polite request to the stationmaster on the main concourse may result in permission being granted to visit the restricted areas. It is certainly worth the effort.

Dr D Navroji Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2265 6565.
Opening hours: Daily early morning to late evening.
Free admission.

St Thomas’s Cathedral
St Thomas’s is the Anglican cathedral of Mumbai and, having been founded in 1676, bears witness to almost the entire history of the British in Bombay. The main structure was not completed, due to lack of funds, until 1718. The tower and clock were added in 1838, while the chancel was built in 1863. The main interest for the visitor is in the splendid array of marble monuments that line the aisles of the cathedral, which give an immediate, anecdotal flavour of life and death in British Bombay. Many of them catch the eye but look out for the memorial to Captain George Hardinge RN. Hardinge, in naval uniform, is being borne away on a huge seashell pulled by two fiery seahorses, while below is a relief of the action in which he was killed. The cathedral has recently been splendidly restored.

3 Veer Nariman, Fort
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1800.
Free admission; donations welcome.

Town Hall
An impressive neo-classical structure overlooking Horniman Circle, the Town Hall was built between 1821 and 1833, to designs by Colonel Thomas Cowper. It originally stood on Bombay Green, which was the centre of the Fort area, and is one of the few remnants (along with the Mint Building) of pre-Victorian Bombay. It is now used as a public library.

Horniman Circle, Fort
Tel: (022) 2266 0956.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1030-1815.
Free admission.

Jehangir Art Gallery
The premier exhibition space in Mumbai for contemporary Indian art, the Jehangir Art Gallery was founded by Sir Cowasji Jehangir, in memory of his son. It boasts two large galleries, which frequently stage changing exhibitions.

Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2204 8212.
Opening hours: Daily 1100-1900.
Free admission; some exhibitions may charge.

Shrine of Haji Ali
Commemorating a Muslim saint who died while on pilgrimage to Mecca, the Shrine of Haji Ali rises out of the sea off Mumbai, sparkling in the bright sunshine like an priceless jewel. The shrine, which is topped by an elegant tower, is connected to the mainland by a causeway (thronging with beggars) and is only accessible at low tide.

Off Lala Lajpa Trai Murg
Opening hours: Daily 0500-2200, subject to tides.
Free admission.

Balbulnath Temple
Perched on the northeastern end of Malabar Hill, overlooking Chowpatty Beach, a visit to Balbulnath Temple necessitates a steep climb. Nevertheless the effort is amply rewarded by the elaborate terrace and the splendid carving, picked out in blue, which adorns the pillared hall.

Near junction of Walkeshwar and Marine Drive
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Free admission; donations welcome.

Mumbadevi Temple
The shady and ornate first-floor balcony overlooking the noisy, chaotic square in the middle of the Bhuleshwar Market is part of the Mumbadevi Temple. The interior of the temple (in complete contrast to the bustle outside) is serenely calm, cool and dark. The temple is on three floors set around a central atrium that ascends to a dome. The carving that decorates the interior is ornate but never surrenders to fussiness. Next door, two other Hindu temples are similarly worth visiting.

Bhuleshwar Market
Opening hours: Daily 0630-2130.
Free admission; donations welcome.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum)
Set in beautiful lush gardens, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalya is one of the landmarks of south Bombay. The museum is housed in a grand and somewhat exotic building, designed by George Wittet in 1909, in the Indo-Saracenic style. The collections include ancient and medieval sculptures and artefacts, Indian decorative arts and a large number of beautiful miniatures. There is also a natural history section which contains a large number of stuffed animals and fish. The admission fee includes an audio tour.

159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 2284 4484.
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1015-1800.
Admission charge; concessions available.

Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum
(formerly Victoria and Albert Museum)
Housed in a purpose-built 19th-century Palladian villa, the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum collections are of mixed interest and quality and are generally badly displayed and poorly lit. There are some fine carvings in both wood and ivory, some interesting antique Indian weapons and a fascinating display of photographs of old Bombay. There are delightful and extensive formal gardens surrounding the villa, which also accommodate a zoo. Other highlights of the gardens are the elaborate Italian Renaissance-style gateway and the equestrian statue of Edward VII as Prince of Wales. The museum is at present closed for restoration; it is expected to reopen in January 2005.

Dr B Ambedkar Road, Byculla
Tel: (022) 372 5799.
Opening hours: Daily 1030-1630, closed Wed.
Admission charge.

Horniman Circle
Laid out in 1869, on the site of the old Bombay Green and originally called Elphinstone Circle, Horniman Circle is the epicentre of the Fort area. The Circle consists of James Scott’s elegantly curved, arcade terraces with a garden in the middle. It was the first significant piece of the city's redevelopment, which began under the governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. The gardens in the middle of the Circle, which are open to the public, are a lush and shady retreat from the glare and bustle of the streets, a good place to break a morning’s sightseeing. Following independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, after an English journalist, Benjamin Horniman, who was a leading advocate of Indian self-determination.

Horniman Circle, Fort
Opening hours: Sun-Fri 1000-2030, Sat 1600-2030.
Free admission.

Further Distractions

Dhobi Ghat (Washing Place)
Dhobi Ghat is a few hundred yards from the manicured lawns of Mahalaxmi Racecourse, but in spirit could not be further removed. Here Mumbai’s laundry is done (by hand in concrete sinks and dried by the sun) as it has been for generations. A dhobiwallah is someone who does the laundry.

Dr E Moses Road, Mahalaxmi
Opening hours: Dawn to dusk.
Free admission.

Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach
Built on land reclaimed from the sea, Marine Drive is Mumbai’s most famous thoroughfare. Lined with crumbling Art Deco buildings, it runs down Back Bay from Malabar Hill to Nariman Point. At the top end of Marine Drive is Chowpatty Beach. The only beach in the central part of Mumbai, it is a popular and lively place to spend an afternoon.

Malabar Hill to Nariman Point
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Maidans
The Maidans are a long strip of palm-fringed green in the middle of Mumbai. They serve as the lungs of the city, where Mumbaikers can stroll, play cricket and football or simply laze in the shade. From the Oval Maidan there is a fine view of the Gothic mass of the Law Courts and, towering high above the palm trees, the University Library Clocktower.

Fort area, Marine Drive
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Malabar Hill and the Hanging Gardens
Jutting out into the sea from the north end of Marine Drive, Malabar Hill offers splendid views of Mumbai. The hill used to be one of the most desirable residential areas of Mumbai and, to this day, the state governor’s official residence is at the end of the point. On the top of the hill are the Hanging Gardens, laid out formally.

Marine Drive
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Bombay Heritage Walks Society (tel: (22) 2369 0992 or 2683 5856; e-mail: heritagewalks@hotmail.com), run by two Mumbai architects, organises a series of English-language guided walks around various interesting parts of the city. The walks are conducted once a month, on a Sunday evening, on the basis of a printed schedule - departure points vary. The tour lasts about 90 minutes. The local press is the easiest way of finding out the schedule and itinerary. Those interested must register by e-mail with the Society at least three days in advance. The society also organises specially designed walks for interested heritage enthusiasts.

Bus Tours
The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) (tel: (022) 2202 4482; website: www.maharashtratourism.gov.in) runs evening open deck bus tours of the city on Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays. These last about 90 minutes. All tours depart from the MTDC building at Nariman Point on Marine Drive.

Boat Tours
From the Gateway of India on Apollo Bunder, there is a harbour cruise; the boat sails around the outer reaches of the harbour, passing close to the naval fort. The cruises last about 40 minutes. They run from about 0900 to about 1700. From the jetty, at the southern end of Chowpatty Beach, one can take a night cruise of Back Bay. It is worth making this trip for the view of the city, all lit up, from the water. The cruises start at sunset and continue until 2300, lasting about an hour. Tours are generally run by a number of informal outlets.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Elephanta Caves: Located on an island in Mumbai harbour, the Elephanta Caves is a complex of temples hewn from the rock, usually dated to between AD450 and 750. The temples are adorned with intricate sculptures of Hindu gods. Boats depart every 30 minutes 0900-1430, Tuesday-Sunday, from the Gateway of India. The last departure from Elephanta is at 1730. Tickets can be bought at the Gateway of India. The journey takes approximately an hour in each direction. The GITO (tel: (022) 2207 4333/4) provides information on the Elephanta Caves, as does the MTDC (tel: (022) 2202 4482; website: www.maharashtratourism.gov.in).

For a Whole Day

Sanjay Gandhi National Park: Located about 40km (25 miles) from the centre of Mumbai, the Sanjay Gandhi National Park (tel: (022) 2886 0362) is a haven of peace away from the noise of the city. The visitor can spend an enjoyable day picnicking or simply meandering around the park (there is an outdoor film set, a Jain temple and three lakes) but the principal attraction is the Kanheri Caves. There are 101 numbered caves in the Kanheri complex (a working Buddhist monastery) ranging from full temples to simple living quarters. The earliest caves may have been excavated in the first century and the latest date from the 11th century. The nearest station is Boravali (on Western Railway) and there are taxis available at the station. The park is open Tuesday-Sunday 0730-1830. For further information refer to MTDC (tel: (022) 2202 4482; website: www.maharashtratourism.gov.in)

Marve and Manori beaches: Located about 50km (31 miles) northwest of the centre of Mumbai, these beaches offer beautiful unspoilt stretches of sand, which are much cleaner than the more famous beach at Juhu. At Marve, there is also an old Portuguese church and fishing village. For Marve, trains go to Malad station (Western Railway), from there it is a short taxi ride or bus 272. For Manori, the ferry goes across Manori Creek from Marve.

Sport

Shopping

Mumbai is a shopper’s paradise. The shops and bazaars offer a truly amazing diversity of goods, as well as being worth a visit in their own right. Mumbai sells everything from expensive European antiques to local spices by way of electrical goods and silks. In particular, it is the centre of the Indian clothing trade and caters for all tastes and budgets. ‘Fashion Street’, on M Gandhi Road between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, is a row of market stalls where some very good bargains can be found. At the other end of the spectrum, Mumbai is also home to a number of tailors who will make clothes quickly at a reasonable cost. For the more adventurous shopper, there is a large amount of Indian furniture for sale in Mumbai, both at dealers and in the bazaars. Caveat emptor is very much the rule and the age or worth of purchases cannot be guaranteed; visitors should trust to luck and their eye, haggle fiercely and hope to be rewarded with an exceptional bargain. Likewise, Mumbai is a major centre of the diamond trade and for those with strong nerves and long pockets, who know what they are doing, it is possible to pick great bargains. For inexpensive yet attractive wooden and other presents, the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Shivaji Marg, between Apollo Bunder and Regal, is open Monday-Saturday 1000-1900.

For those who like to shop in comfort, the Oberoi and Taj Hotels both boast air-conditioned shopping malls with an interesting range of boutiques. No trip to Mumbai is complete, however, without a visit to the bazaars: Chow Bazaar, Mutton Street, near Sir JJ Road, for bric-a-brac, furniture and junk, Zaveri Bazaar, off Abdul Rahman Street, for jewellery, Dhaboo Street Bazaar, Dhaboo Street, for leather goods and Crawford Market, Dr D Navroji Road/Carnac Road, for fruit and vegetables. Markets are generally open from 0900-1900. In most shops and bazaars, bargaining is the norm, particularly for more expensive items. For shoppers of a more literary bent, there are a number of open-air second-hand bookstalls on the streets near the university, around Chowk Fountain, where a persistent search may reveal interesting volumes among the pulp thrillers.

Generally, shops do not open until 1000 or 1030 but tend to remain open until about 1900. Sales tax varies between 4-15%.

Culture

Culturally, Mumbai is probably best known for its film industry, nicknamed Bollywood. Cinema in India is very popular and the city is responsible for the majority of the Hindi-language films that are made in the country. The Mumbai International Film Festival takes place every other year (next due in 2006) and is firmly established as a major event in the cinematic calendar. It is staged at various venues across the city during the month of February. While cinema is popular (there is said to be in excess of 100 million paying cinemagoers a week nationwide) theatre, music and dance also have long traditions in Mumbai and remain important cultural activities. Mumbai is also home to a large number of public and commercial art galleries - the leading public ones being the Jehangir Gallery (see Key Attractions) and the National Gallery of Modern Art, both of which put on regular exhibitions of contemporary Indian art.

Time Out has recently come to Mumbai; its fortnightly listings and reviews provide comprehensive coverage of cultural events in the city. Available from newsstands.

Theatre, Dance and Music: The most important venue for the performing arts in Mumbai is the National Centre for Performing Arts, Nariman Point (tel: (022) 2283 3737; website: www.tata.com/ncpa). This complex of five theatres of varying sizes puts a widely varying programme of plays, musicals and dance. Normally, there will be something on that is well worth seeing. Important, too, is the Nehru Centre Auditorium, Dr Annie Besant Road, Worli (tel: (022) 2496 4676; website: www.nehrucentremumbai.com), where there is an auditorium, as part of a modern complex that includes art galleries, exhibition halls and a planetarium. During the year, it stages theatre, dance and music. It also runs workshops for educational purposes. For plays in English and programmes of Western music, Sophia Bhabha Hall, B Desai Road at Breach Candy (tel: (022) 2367 8550), is a good venue.

Film: The centre of Bollywood is Film City, at Goregoan (tel: (022) 2840 1755), where the majority of the film studios are located. It is possible to arrange visits to some of the studios. The bulk of films made in Bollywood are sugary love stories or action dramas; the aim of the industry is to produce the entertainment and escapism that its audiences demand. The industry is now gaining more international recognition, as the success of Monsoon Wedding (2001), Asoka (2001) and most recently Bride and Prejudice (2004) in Britain shows. Every year in January, the city hosts the Mumbai International Film Festival (see Special Events).

Mumbai has many cinemas, the best known one being the Art Deco Regal cinema, Apollo Pier Road, Colaba (tel: (022) 2202 1017), itself a Mumbai landmark. Many other cinemas, particularly those in the city centre, for example the New Empire Cinema (tel: (022) 207 1286) near CST, regularly show English-language films.

Literary Notes: Those who wish to immerse themselves in the spirit of Mumbai need look no further than Salman Rushdie’s Midnight’s Children (1981). A dextrously handled cocktail of history, fiction and imaginative fantasy, the novel is partly set in Mumbai and provides a wonderful evocation of the city’s geography, atmosphere and history in the years following Independence in 1947. ‘What I can see: the city basking like a bloodsucker lizard in the summer heat. Our Bombay: it looks like a hand but really it’s a mouth, always open, always hungry, swallowing food and talent from everywhere else in India. A glamorous leech, producing nothing except films bush-shirts fish...’ It is an affectionate portrait celebrating the ‘highly-spiced nonconformity of Bombay’. A different view of the city emerges from Anita Desai’s novel, Baumgartner’s Bombay (1988), which conjures up the crumbling fabric of the city, its humidity and pollution.

Mumbai is home to a number of contemporary poets, including Arun Kolatkar. Nissin Ezkiel is often regarded as the founding father of modern poetry in the city. From the 1950s onwards, he did much to encourage young poets in their work. It remains as difficult here as anywhere else, however, to find companies who are prepared to publish poetry. In the field of fiction, Mumbai novelist Kiran Nagarkar has recently published Cuckold (1998).

Nightlife

The party animal will not be disappointed by Mumbai. The city reckons itself to be the capital of Indian nightlife. Certainly, the bars and clubs offer enough variety to satisfy even the most jaded palate. Colaba and south Mumbai used to be the centre of the city’s nightlife, but recently competing clubs and lounges (an Indian hybrid of a bar and a club) have started opening in the suburbs. The prevailing atmosphere is informal (a jacket and tie is almost never required) but Mumbaikers like to be well turned-out and the atmosphere of some establishments is decidedly chic. Many bars and clubs operate a couples-only policy, for members and non-members alike, and charge an entrance fee.

The most popular drinks are beer and spirits (particularly whisky) rather than imported wine, which is relatively expensive and often of indifferent quality, although Indian wine is now better made and more widely available than ever before. Drink prices vary considerably depending on the venue: a bottle of beer in a humble bar costs around Rs100, while in an expensive bar or hotel bar, the price will more likely be in the region of Rs250-400. Licensing hours appear to vary and the legal minimum drinking age is 21 years. Five-star hotels have an extension to enable them to sell alcohol until 0030 and many of the larger international hotels have a nightclub on the premises as well.

Time Out is published fortnightly and is available from news stands. It carries listings on many, if not all, aspects of having fun in Mumbai.

Bars: Indigo, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, was the original Mumbai bar-restaurant and, despite having spawned numerous imitators, its minimalist decor still attracts a smartly turned-out set. Geoffrey’s, in the Hotel Marine Plaza (itself a fine example of Art Deco architecture well worth visiting), is the best-known English-style pub in Mumbai. Geoffrey’s stays open until 0100, and serves a good set-price lunch. Tendulkar’s, near Regal, is a sports bar and restaurant, where one can watch televised sport and drink. Leopold, Colaba Causeway, near Regal, sells inexpensive beer and good snacks; it is popular with backpackers. The Olive Bar and Kitchen, 14 Union Park, in the fashionable northern suburb of Juhu, is a trendy bar and restaurant, which serves food until 0200. All the five-star hotels have bars. where one can drink in air-conditioned and pricey seclusion.

Casinos: There are no casinos in Mumbai, as gambling is illegal in India, except on the racecourse.

Clubs: In the past, the best nightclubs in Mumbai were to be found in the five-star hotels; this is no longer necessarily the case as new places are opening all the time. There is now a dazzling array of nightclubs (known variously as clubs, bars or lounges) on offer in Mumbai. Athena, 41/44 Minoo Desai Marg, now the smartest club in Colaba, also hosts first nights and launch parties. For younger revelers, Lush and the Provogue Lounge in the unpromising environs of the Phoenix Mills Compound, Lower Parel, offer a lively alternative. Cafe Sesso, in The Courtyard, Minoo Desai Road, has a club night on Wednesdays when one can sit under the stars drinking wine and listening to music. Of the nightclubs in the international hotels, the Library, in the Taj President, 90 Cuffe Parade, boasts a lively bar and live music with free entry. In the northern suburbs, the Leela Hotel at Sahar (near the airport) has Zaha.

Live Music: Not Just Jazz by the Bay, Soona Mahal, 143 Marine Drive, is the only remaining bar for live music in the city centre. It has a varied programme of live music; it also stages karaoke nights and on some nights features Indian music.

City Statistics

Location: Maharashtra State, India.
Country dialling code: 91.
Population: 14.8 million (Greater Mumbai).
Time zone: GMT + 5.5.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two- or three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 24.5C (76F).
Average July temp: 28.5C (83F).
Average annual rainfall: 2,160mm (85 inches) Jun-Sep.

Special Events

India, with its many religions, has a multitude of religious festivals. The two most important in Mumbai are both Hindu - Ganesh and Diwali.
Mumbai International Film Festival, Jan, in cinemas throughout the city
Holi: Hindu festival of harvest and fertility on the day after the full moon in early March. People run through the streets bombarding each other and stray tourists with brightly coloured powder and water. Throughout the city.
Independence Day: national holiday, 15 Aug, throughout the city.
Ganesh: Hindu festival, Ganesh is the god of wisdom and prosperity and his festival, which falls in August/September, is celebrated with particular enthusiasm in Mumbai. Its climax is colourful and noisy and involves many tens of thousands of people converging on Chowpatty Beach to immerse themselves and their images of Ganesh (which resemble an elephant) into the sea. It is an unforgettable experience.
Navrati, Hindu festival, early Oct, throughout the city
Diwali (Festival of Light): the most pan-Indian of Hindu festivals (coinciding with the onset of the Hindu and Jain new year) symbolises the victory of righteousness and the lifting of spiritual darkness by commemorating Lord Rama’s return to his kingdom, Ayodhya, after his 14-year exile.

Cost of Living

100 Indian Rupee (Rs100) = 1.22; US$2.30; C$2.87; A$2.98; 1.78
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005