World City Guide

Mini Guide of Miami

City Overview

Hardly the brash, drug-ridden crime capital of America that was made famous in the 1980s television series Miami Vice, today’s booming metropolis has since been dubbed ‘America’s Casablanca’, the ‘Magic City’ and, more recently, the ‘America of the Millennium’. These various appellations touch on one aspect of Miami that distinguishes it from other US cities – its identity as a truly multicultural American city. It is a gateway to South and Central America and the third most popular city in the United States for international visitors (after Los Angeles and New York). In fact, Miami just might be more Latin American than simply American.

For a city famed for its sunny weather, spicy nightlife and fine dining, Miami had surprisingly humble beginnings. Located on the far south coast of Florida, perched between a mangrove swamp and a barrier reef, Miami was founded a 100 years ago, when a tycoon called Henry Flagler extended his railroad to carry citrus fruits from the frost-free south. Development was slow until the Florida land boom in the 1920s. During Prohibition, Al Capone came here when the heat was on in Chicago. After World War II, the Mafia moved in and later, once Fidel Castro seized power in Cuba in 1959, waves of Cuban refugees arrived. Before long, they had established Miami as the Latin capital of the USA – with later mass immigration in the 1980s as well. The cultural climate the Cubans created in Miami inspired residents of other Latin countries (Colombia, Dominica, Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Haiti and others) to seek an escape from poverty or oppressive governments and emigrate. And now, Spanish is spoken as pervasively in Miami as English.

Yet the city is one of America’s most ultramodern cities – the second largest in Florida (after Jacksonville) but easily its most exciting, exotic and cosmopolitan. Miami, known as Greater Miami and the Beaches or just Greater Miami for short, includes a number of islands and mainland communities, including two cities – Miami and Miami Beach. Much of Miami’s appeal is due to its diverse neighbourhoods, which range from the big-city, towering skyscrapers of downtown Miami (the commercial heart of the city) to Little Havana, home to the Cuban community, or to the trendy Miami Beach neighbourhood of South Beach. South Beach is probably most recognisably ‘Miami’ – with its candy-coloured Art Deco buildings set against a pure South Florida backdrop of cloudless skies, dazzling blue ocean, pale sandy beaches and swaying palm trees.

Greater Miami is also an international crossroads of commerce, finance, culture, sports, entertainment, transportation and tourism, which is, not surprisingly, the city’s main source of income. The downtown Port of Miami is the largest cruise ship port in the world, which handles more than three million passengers a year. Besides its importance to cruise travel, Miami Beach is, of course, world-renowned for its ‘gold coast’ hotel strip, palatial properties and outdoor recreational facilities. Locals give the feeling that nothing could ever be more important than taking a morning run along the beachside path, sunning oneself or shopping during the afternoon, then dining and dancing till dawn. Its subtropical climate ensures warm weather year-round, with plenty of sunshine – and the lifestyle and vibe here emphasise not work but plenty of play.

The city’s real genius, however, is that, in recent years, it has successfully absorbed the different cultures of its multi-ethnic population and been influenced by them all – and now Miami is considered a model community for the 21st century and a compelling example of America’s changing face. Despite this, not every immigration story is a happy one. Immigrants are not given as hearty a welcome as the Eastern European immigrants to America once were, for example, as the sad story of young Elian Gonzales and his attempted illegal emigration shows, when, in 1999, his mother lost her life in trying to secure US citizenship for her son. And, indeed, there are downsides as a result of its diverse population but, nevertheless, Miami is essentially a city founded on the ideals of liberation by immigrants looking for an opportunity to flourish. Now one of the most exhilarating cities in the country, this safe, successful, multicultural metropolis has vibrancy and savoir faire and really is a ‘City of the Future’.

Getting There By Air

Miami International Airport (MIA)
Tel: (305) 876 7000 or 1 800 TALK-MIA. Fax: (305) 876 7398.
Website: www.miami-airport.com

Located 11km (7 miles) northwest of the city, Miami International Airport is regarded as the ‘Hub of the Americas’ – the primary connecting point for air travel between the Americas and Latin America and a major gateway to Europe. It has the third highest international passenger traffic in the USA and is number one in the USA for international freight trade. Almost 40 airlines serve 34 million passengers per year.

The terminal building is in the shape of a horseshoe, with nine concourses (A-J). For easy access to any of the concourses, there is a moving walkway on Level 3. International flights arrive at concourses A, B, D, E and F.

Major airlines: National airline American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 7300; website: www.aa.com) serves Miami International Airport. Other airlines include Air Canada, Air France, Air Jamaica, British Airways, Continental, Delta, Lufthansa, Northwest/KLM, TACA, TWA, United, US Airways and Virgin Atlantic.

Approximate flight times to Miami: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 3 hours; from Los Angeles is 5 hours; from Toronto is 3 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 18 hours.

Airport facilities: Throughout the terminal, there are plenty of restaurants, cafs, snack bars, gift and duty-free shops, newspaper stands and foreign currency exchange booths. A pharmacy (concourse F), a post office (concourse B, level 4) and a unisex hair styling salon cover additional passenger needs. Car hire firms include Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National. There are five Tourist Information Centers (the main one, at level 2 of Concourse E, is open 0500-2400), a full-service bank (concourse B, level 4) and several ATMs (concourse C and G, level 2).

Business facilities: There are data port connections at various locations throughout the airport terminal. For specific locations, visitors should either pick up a white paging phone or ask at one of the Information Counters. There is also an Internet caf at the Casa Bacardi restaurant located in the Concourse E food court. The Miami International Airport Hotel (Concourse E, upper level; tel: (305) 871 4100; fax: (305) 871 0800; website: www.miahotel.com) offers conference suites, boardrooms and other meeting facilities, with catering service available. Many airlines (including American Airlines, Delta and United) belong to the airline VIP club, enabling their business-class passengers to access executive lounges. There is a computer that can be used by the public to access the Internet, at the 7th level of the hotel.

Arrival/departure tax: US$50-95, depending on airline and destination, included in ticket.

Transport to the city: Some hotels provide a free minibus or limousine service to their visitors. In lieu of this service, perhaps the best mode of transport for the money is the SuperShuttle (tel: (305) 871 2000 or (800) 874 8885; website: www.supershuttle.com). Minivans depart from the lower level of the terminal outside baggage claim, with 24-hour service to points as far north as Palm Beach and to some of the Lower Keyes. On average, Miami destinations cost US$8-15 one way.

Public transport from the airport to Miami is somewhat complicated. A free 24-hour shuttle bus (departing from the ground level of concourse E, directly across from US Customs) connects with the Miami Airport Tri-Rail station. Tri-Rail (tel: (800) 874 7245 or (954) 942 7248; fax: (954) 788 7878; website: www.tri-rail.com) trains run from Miami Airport station as far as Mangonia Park station in Palm Beach (0416-2210 weekdays and 0700-2157 weekends). To reach downtown Miami by train, passengers must travel two stops on the Tri-Rail to the Tri-Rail/Metrorail Transfer Station (cost: US$2 weekdays/US$4 weekends) and transfer to Metrorail, operated by Miami-Dade Transit Agency (MDTA; tel: (305) 770 3131; fax: (305) 654 6583; e-mail: transit@miamidade.gov; website: www.co.miami-dade.fl.us/mdta). Metrorail trains cost US$1.25 and operate 0500-2400.

Alternatively, Miami-Dade Metrobuses, also operated by the MDTA, and costing the same as the Metrorail, leave from the lower level of Concourse E. Bus 7, which goes to the Government Center in downtown Miami and the main bus terminal (journey time – 35 minutes), and bus 42, which goes to Coconut Grove, both leave every 40 minutes 0600-2200. Bus J goes to Miami Beach every 30 minutes 0440-2400 (journey time – approximately 1 hour). The Metrobus Airport Owl Line runs hourly (1150-0540) and goes as far as South Beach.

Taxis charge flat fares (tip is not included) from the airport to most destinations (Port of Miami US$18, Miami Beach US$24 and Key Biscayne US$31) and take about 20 minutes to downtown Miami. A porter matches travellers with taxis on the arrivals and departure levels.

Getting There By Water

The Dante B Fascell Port of Miami (tel: (305) 371 7678; fax: (305) 347 4843; website: www.co.miami-dade.fl.us/portofmiami), under the authority of Miami-Dade County Seaport Department (tel: (305) 371 7678), is the world’s busiest cruise port. As the ‘Cruise Capital of the World’, it serves more than three million passengers a year and handles more ‘megaships’ (vessels capable of transporting 2,000-plus passengers) than any other port in the world. The port, near Bayside Marketplace, is home to 18 cruise ships and its terminal has such smart new facilities as VIP lounges and an outdoor observation deck, as well as a branch of the Avis car hire company. There is a fair amount of construction happening at the Port. Travellers are advised to consult the website for information regarding accessibility.

Boat services: Carnival Cruise Lines (tel: (305) 599 2600), Norwegian Cruise Line (tel: (305) 436 4000) and Royal Caribbean International (tel: (305) 539 6000) are among several cruise lines operating regularly from the port with services to the Caribbean and beyond.

Transport to the city: Bus 3, 16, 95, C or S goes from Bayside (Biscayne Boulevard) to downtown Miami.

Getting There By Road

Americans drive on the right-hand side of the road and pass on the left. Right turns at a red light are permitted (unless otherwise indicated) but only after stopping. Speed limits range from 24kph (15mph) to 72kph (45mph) in the city, 88kph (55mph) on most state highways, and 88-112kph (55-70mph) on Interstates and the Florida Turnpike. Speeding fines are hefty. There are also tough penalties for drink driving – the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. All passengers must wear seatbelts and children under five must be fastened into a child safety seat. All drivers must be over 16 years and are required to hold a current driving licence. The State of Florida recognises valid driver’s licences from the USA and other countries, as well as International Driving Permits. Visitors who plan on driving should have Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) as part of their standard travel insurance.

The road system is straightforward, consisting of interstate expressways, toll-paying motorways, primary state highways and other state roads, each identified by a number. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north–south and the even numbers go east–west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333 or (305) 661 6131; website: www.aaa.com) provides information and road maps and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357

Routes to the city: The I-95 is the major north–south expressway, providing access into Miami from Palm Beach and Fort Lauderdale. It runs through downtown Miami and into US-1 (also called Dixie Highway), which continues south to Key West. Another toll-paying expressway, the Florida Turnpike, heads southwards from Orlando and central Florida to the Golden Glades Interchange in the northern part of Miami. The major east–west expressway to downtown Miami is State Road 836 (Dolphin Expressway), connecting Florida’s Turnpike in the west with the I-95 and Miami Beach (via the I-395) in the east.

Driving times to Miami: From Fort Lauderdale – 1 hour; Palm Beach – 2 hours; Key West – 3 hours 30 minutes; Orlando – 5 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (800) 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates three main coach stations in Miami – at 4111 NW 27th Street (tel: (305) 871 1810), near the airport, at 36 NE Tenth Street (tel: (305) 374 6160), near Bayside, downtown Miami, and at 16000 NW Seventh Avenue (tel: (305) 688 7277, in North Miami. Facilities at these terminals range from basic to non-existent. Greyhound operates direct links to Fort Lauderdale, Orlando and Key West, as well as further-flung destinations, such as New Orleans, Washington DC and New York.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway provider. With comfortable trains and a reliable and efficient service, Amtrak is an excellent way to travel. For national rail enquiries, visitors should call the toll-free information line (tel: (800) USA RAIL/872 7245). Miami’s main Amtrak rail terminal is located at 8303 NW 37th Avenue (tel: (305) 835 1221). The station has very basic facilities, including a checked baggage service, an enclosed waiting area, payphones, vending machines and car hire from Hertz. The station is also fully accessible to persons using wheelchairs.

Rail services: Amtrak offers a comprehensive rail network to cities throughout the USA and Canada, including Fort Lauderdale (journey time – 45 minutes), Orlando (journey time – 5 hours) and Jacksonville (journey time – 8 hours). SilverMeteor and SilverStar trains operate up the Atlantic coast from Miami to New York City (journey time – 25 hours) three times daily. Amtrak has begun to strictly enforce its two carry-ons, three checked baggage limit since November 1st, 2004.

Transport to the city: Bus 42 connects the Amtrak station with downtown Miami.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Getting around Greater Miami can be difficult, mainly due to the sheer size of the city. Nevertheless, Miami-Dade Transit Agency (MDTA; tel: (305) 770 3131; fax: (305) 654 6583; e-mail: transit@miamidade.gov; website: www.co.miami-dade.fl.us/mdta) provides a variety of useful transport options, including Metrorail, Metrobus and Metromover.

At 34km (21 miles), the Metrorail is the longest elevated rapid transit system in America. It runs from Kendall northwards through South Miami, Coral Gables, downtown Miami and then northwest to the Hialeah district. There are 22 stations (each about a mile apart) and the entire journey takes 42 minutes. Trains run 0500-2400 approximately every 10-20 minutes, every six minutes at peak times and every 30 minutes after 2000. Fares are US$1.25 each way – exact change only is placed in the slot at the entrance turnstiles. The trains connect to the Metrobus and Tri-Rail. Transfer to the Metromover (see below), at the Government Center station or Brickell station, costs US$0.25 and must be purchased at one’s original boarding station.

Metrobus (tel: (305) 638 6700; website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/metrobus.asp) operates a comprehensive bus service with 94 routes running 0400-0213 Monday to Friday (with extended hours at weekends). Blue and green bus-stop signs list the routes and destinations. Fares are US$1.25 each way – exact change only is handed to the driver upon boarding. A transfer from bus to bus or from bus to Metrorail costs US$0.25. Some express routes charge an additional US$1.50.

Downtown Miami is served by the futuristic, driverless Metromover (tel: (305) 770 3131; website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/metromover.asp), an elevated, three-loop, fully automated monorail. This links major business, entertainment and cultural centres, hotels, shopping malls, government buildings and the Brickell Financial District, and also connects with the Metrorail and Metrobus. It operates daily0500-2400, every three minutes or every 90 seconds during rush hour, with the outer Loop serving Brickell and Omni operating as one continuous loop from 1900-2400. The Metromover is free to all travellers. It is safe, air-conditioned and it also provides unparalleled views of downtown Miami.

The Electrowave (The Shuttle) (tel: (305) 535 9160; website: www.miamibeachfl.gov/newcity/electrowave.asp), South Beach’s electric shuttle service, provides transportation up and down Washington Avenue (between Lincoln Road and South Pointe Park) and along Collins Avenue (between Lincoln Road and Dade Boulevard). It operates every 12-15 minutes (0800-0100 Monday to Saturday, 1000-0100 Sundays and holidays) and costs just US$0.25 – tickets are purchased on board. It stops at 36 designated stops in the Art Deco Historic District.

A monthly Metropass, costing US$60, allows for unlimited travel on the Metrobus, Metrorail and Metromover. This pass is available for purchase from the Transit Information Center on the second level of the Government Center Metrorail station and at designated outlets (website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/passtokens_outlet.asp). Passes bought in groups of five or more qualify for a discount. Please consult website for details.

Taxis
Taxis are plentiful but it is not the norm to hail one in the street. They are easily available from taxi stands outside most hotels and shopping malls, although it is more common to telephone for one.

Firms include Metro Taxi Co (tel: (305) 888 8888), Aventura Taxi (tel: (305) 599 9999), Coral Gables City Taxi (tel: (305) 899 9999) and South Dade Miami Taxi (tel: (305) 448 8888). All service providers offer flat-rate fares (including tolls but not tips) from Miami International Airport to some of the more popular destinations (see Getting There By Air), otherwise visitors should expect to pay US$3 for the first mile and US$2 for each mile thereafter. A tip of 15-20% of the fare is usual and expected.

Water Taxis
The waterways are served by a fleet of local ferries, known as water taxis. These operate along two main routes (from Bayside Marketplace to the Fifth Street Marina at the southwestern end of south Beach or to the western end of Lincoln Road) 1000-2300 daily. Fares are US$7 one way, US$12 round trip and US$15 for an all-day pass.

Limousines
Dolphin Limousine Service Inc (tel: (305) 651 1641; website: www.dolphin-limo.com), Protective Limousine Service (tel: (305) 255 3636; website: www.protectivelimo.com) and Signature Limousines (tel: (305) 717 5470; website: www.signature-limousine.com), all cater for both business and leisure needs. Visitors should expect to pay around US$150-175 per hour (for a minimum of three hours) or US$170-190 per hour at weekends.

Driving in the City
Greater Miami comprises 30 municipalities, so familiarisation with the major neighbourhoods is extremely helpful for drivers. Coral Gables (actually a city in itself), Coconut Grove and Little Havana are the popular neighbourhoods in Miami, as well as the downtown area. Miami Beach, a city distinct from Miami, situated to the east, has the lively beachside and shopping centre of South Beach. Visitors should also note that Miami is divided into quadrants. Flagler Street runs east–west, thus dividing the city into north and south sections, while Miami Avenue runs north–south, splitting the city into east and west sections. Most Miami addresses refer to these quadrants.

Highway interchanges can be very confusing, so visitors should be sure to read the signs carefully. Main routes include the major east–west expressway State Road 836 (also called the Dolphin Expressway), which leads from Miami International Airport to the major north–south I-95 expressway and onto Miami Beach via I-195. Four main causeways link Miami and Miami Beach and, once there, the A1A (Collins Avenue) is the main thoroughfare running parallel to the coast. The orange ‘sun’ signs visible on selected highways identify official tourist routes – to Coral Gables, Coconut Grove, downtown Miami, Key Biscayne, Miami Beach and the Port of Miami, as well as to Fort Lauderdale, Orlando and Key West.

Construction is all-pervasive in booming Miami. Drivers should look for ‘smart’ signs, which convey alternate routes and warnings, and also keep an eye out for construction-induced potholes in torn-up areas. Greater Miami traffic can be terrible; cars can come to an absolute standstill along Ocean Drive and Collins Avenue in South Beach during weekday rush hour and weekend nights. Visitors should be aware that short-tempered drivers are as prolific as road construction signs.

There is plenty of metered parking available in Miami but not elsewhere. Visitors should check displayed information for rates and hours of operation. The average rates for parking range from US$1 to US$3.25 per half-hour. The fine for an expired meter is US$18 (US$45 if not paid within 30 calendar days). On weekends, parking garages fill up with shoppers during the day and clubbers during the night, especially in Miami Beach and Coconut Grove. Further information on locations of car parks, hours and rates is available from the Miami Parking System, 190 NE Third Street, in downtown Miami (tel: (305) 373 6789; website: www.miamiparking.com).

Car Hire
Hiring a car is relatively straightforward. Drivers must be over 25 years old and possess a valid national driving licence and a credit card to hold a deposit of at least US$500. When arranging car hire, visitors should inquire about an all-inclusive rate and ask how this compares to the regular daily rate. An all-inclusive rate should include all taxes, airport fees and car handling fees. CWD (also known as LDW), which makes the rental company, rather than the driver, responsible for damage to the car, and SLI (supplementary liability insurance), also sometimes called top-up liability insurance or EP (extended protection), increases third-party liability coverage. All-inclusive rates may also include a tank of petrol and additional drivers (otherwise around US$5 per driver). There is usually an extra charge for child seats (US$3-5 per day).

It is worth shopping around for the best rates. These vary considerably, from a minimum of around US$170 per week or US$40 per day for a compact car with air conditioning, although this may vary from branch to branch and season to season. Convertible cars for travel in sunny Miami start at a higher rental rate. Free one-way drop-offs are normally possible within Florida, although rarely with the cheapest cars.

Major providers include Alamo, 3355 NW 22nd Street, Miami International Airport (tel: (305) 633 6076; website: www.alamo.com), Avis, 2300 NW 37th Avenue, Miami International Airport (tel: (305) 341 0936; website: www.avis.com), Budget, 3901 NW 28th Street, Miami International Airport (tel: (305) 871 3053; website: www.drivebudget.com), Hertz, 3795 NW 21st Street, Miami International Airport (tel: (305) 871 0300; website: www.hertz.com), Interamerican, Miami International Airport (tel: (305) 635 3060; website: www.interamerican.com), and Thrifty, 2875 NW 42nd Avenue, Miami International Airport (tel: (877) 283 0898; website: www.thrifty.com).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
While Miami has busy thoroughfares, Miami Beach has smaller neighbourhood streets so most rental outlets are in bike-friendly Miami Beach. The Miami Beach Bicycle Center, 601 Fifth Street (tel: (305) 674 0150), charges around US$20 per day. Bikes to Go, 6600 SW 80th Street (tel: (305) 666 7702; website: http://bikestogo.net/), sells and rents bikes in Miami itself. Visitors interested in hiring an Italian scooter should visit Ride, 710 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 673 3307).

Bicycle hire rates are around US$20 per day and visitors should ask for a sturdy U-type or Kryptonite lock as bicycle theft is common, and wear a helmet.

Business

Business Profile
Thanks to its strategic situation at the gateway to the Caribbean, Central and South America, as well as its superior seaport and airport capabilities, Miami is known as the major international trading hub of the Americas. Founded in 1977, the Miami Free Trade Zone (the first and largest privately owned and operated trade zone in the world) is located just west of Miami International Airport and boasts around 200 major international clients. The customs in Miami process 40% of all US exports to Latin America and the Caribbean. Top export trading partners include Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela, Dominican Republic and Argentina.

Recent years have seen the steady economic growth and strengthening of international business opportunities, with trade, construction, manufacturing (clothing, metal fabrication, printing and medical products), real estate and the service sectors showing the strongest potential. The city’s main commercial district is at the heart of downtown Miami, where six blocks of government and municipal offices house such prestigious multinationals as AT&T, Apple, Johnson & Johnson, Kos Pharmaceuticals, Sony, Texaco and Toshiba. More than 400 multinational companies have operations in Miami and many have their Latin American headquarters here. The city is also emerging as a key international banking centre. Indeed, Brickell Avenue has more international banks (over 100) than any other place in America.

The city’s chief source of income, however, derives from tourism. The direct economic impact of just under 10.5 million visitors to Miami in 2003 was visitor expenditure of US$11 billion. Thanks to its multitude of hotels with conference suites, it is also a major business convention centre. The film and entertainment industry also generates millions annually with film, television, commercial and fashion photography production. Major media organisations located in Greater Miami include Telemundo and Univision (the top two Spanish-language television networks in the USA), the Discovery Channel, MTV Networks and the Travel Channel.

Miami’s unemployment rate of 6.1% for 2004, is certainly declining from recent highs, yet is still higher than the national average of 5.4%.

Business Etiquette
Miami’s close proximity to Latin America makes it a fascinating place to do business. Throughout the past decade, a large number of companies from the Caribbean, Central and South America have set up offices here and, as a result, Greater Miami’s workforce has grown younger, more multilingual and more culturally diverse. However, for business purposes, it is still essentially America. Therefore, dress code is smart and business is managed the American way – quickly, efficiently and frankly. Business cards should always be presented. Outside the boardroom, Americans are often informal and will use first names. Business socialising, drinking and dining is popular in Miami.

Office hours are generally 0900-1700, although these can vary slightly from one organisation to the next. When public holidays occur on a weekday or weekend, they are usually celebrated on the nearest Friday or Monday, thereby creating a three-day weekend. Meetings often take place in social situations and, in keeping with the fast-paced business life of Americans, breakfast meetings are common. Lunch meetings are also popular, sometimes with alcohol. Meetings may also take place over the weekend.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Miami has long been a premier tourist destination, acclaimed for its physical beauty and its excellent climate. Year round, the fabled white-sand beaches and clear blue waters lapping Miami Beach have beckoned visitors to America’s ‘Riviera’. Others are lured by Miami’s world-class shopping and cosmopolitan dining, its international culture and legendary nightlife.

Miami’s diverse neighbourhoods offer a range of activities, from cultural to sporting. Residential Coral Gables is known for its examples of architectural elegance, including the Biltmore Hotel, Fairchild Tropical Garden and the incomparable Venetian Pool, while the bustling Bayside harbour complex in Downtown Miami offers boat excursions. The distinctly Latin district of Little Havana, home to the city’s huge Cuban population, has cigar-making shops and is the place to be in March for the lively Calle Ocho Festival. Over in Miami Beach, South Beach is one of the most-visited neighbourhoods, famed for its pastel and stainless steel Art Deco buildings, where the legendary Ocean Drive boulevard is fringed by Miami’s trendiest sidewalk boutiques, bars and restaurants – the favourite haunts of such local celebrities as Gloria Estefan, Madonna, Ricky Martin and Donatella Versace.

Perhaps Miami’s biggest crowd-puller is its rich multicultural flavour, which gives the city an undeniably unique atmosphere. Just as the rest of America has embraced the rhythms of heart-throb Ricky Martin, Enrique Iglesias, Shakira and other Hispanic music sensations, Miami has long been swaying to a Latin remix of sensuality, salsa and South Beach style, making it one of the most exciting cities in the USA.

Visitors should note that Miami is divided into quadrants. Flagler Street runs east–west, thus dividing the city into north and south sections, while Miami Avenue runs north–south, splitting the city into east and west sections. Most Miami addresses refer to these quadrants.

Tourist Information
Greater Miami and the Beaches Convention and Visitors Bureau
Suite 2700, 701 Brickell Avenue
Tel: (305) 539 3000. Fax: (305) 539 3113.
E-mail: visitor@tropicoolmiami.com
Website: www.miamiandbeaches.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800.

There are also Visitors Centers at Aventura Mall, 19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura, and Bayside Marketplace, 401 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami, and elsewhere.

Passes
There are no tourist discount passes in Miami; however, visitors should contact the Visitors Bureau for promotions, specials and money-saving coupons.

Key Attractions

Downtown Miami
Downtown Miami is the metropolis’s nerve centre (the commercial heart of the city) distinguished by its sleek skyscrapers, impressive government buildings and cultural centres and edged by the Port of Miami, the largest cruise ship port in the world. Brickell Avenue is home to major international banks and businesses, as well as Brickell Village, the area around SW Sixth Street, which has power-lunch restaurants cum buzzing nightspots. On the waterfront, the lively Bayside Marketplace is a popular shopping and entertainment arcade, clustered around a small harbour and abuzz with bars, shops and market stalls. Bayside is the main stop for the water taxi service (see Getting Around) and the starting point for several boat tours (see Tours of the City) of Miami Bay. Adjacent to Bayside Marketplace is the American Airlines Arena, a 20,000-person entertainment venue and home of the basketball team Miami Heat. The historic Gusman Center for the Performing Arts nearby hosts the Miami Film Festival and other cultural events under a painted ‘starry sky’ ceiling. Beyond the port, exclusive Fisher Island, accessible only by boat or private plane, is the address in Miami and home to many celebrities.

Bayside Marketplace
401 Biscayne Boulevard
Tel: (305) 577 3344.
Website: www.baysidemarketplace.com
Transport: Metrorail Brickell, Government Center or Overtown/Arena.
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 1000-2200, Fri-Sat 1000-2300, Sun 1100-2100.
Admission: Free.

American Airlines Arena
601 Biscayne Boulevard
Tel: (786) 777 1000 or 777 1237 for customer services.
Website: www.aaarena.com
Transport: Metrorail to Government Center then Metromover to Freedom Tower.

Gusman Center for the Performing Arts
174 East Flagler Street
Tel: (305) 374 2444.
Website: http://gusmancenter.org
Transport: Metrorail to Government Center then Metromover to NE 1st Street Station.

South Beach
Glitzy, glamorous South Beach is undoubtedly the trendiest part of town, the place to see and be seen and a magnet for celebrities and fun-lovers who thrive on its cosmopolitan atmosphere, designer shopping, upbeat restaurants and fast-paced nightlife. By day, a young, hip crowd of trendy film-star wannabes, international supermodels, artists, writers, tourists, strollers, strutters and the thriving local gay community all cruise Ocean Drive and the pedestrian-friendly Lincoln Road Mall, with its art galleries, shops, and restaurants – providing the colourful mix that fuels the district’s feverish energy levels. By night, salsa or techno music flows from the many dance clubs onto the busy streets.

South Beach itself, with its white sands, palm trees and dazzling blue sea, stretches from Lincoln Road Mall to South Pointe Park at the southernmost tip (great for surfing, fishing and sunsets). The main access point is Lummus Park, bordering Ocean Drive, a favourite park for in-line skaters and volleyball players. However, the most striking feature of South Beach is its famous Art Deco Historic District – over 800 buildings within one and a half sq kilometres (one sq mile), all in the same streamlined architectural style, painted in pastel shades and lit with brilliantly coloured neon lights. Even the Burger King on Alton Road is housed in an Art Deco structure. Tours of the district are offered on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday mornings or Thursday evening and self-guided tour maps are always available at the Art Deco Welcome Center.

Lincoln Road Mall to South Pointe Park
Transport: Bus C, K, M or W; or Electrowave.

Art Deco Welcome Center
1001 Ocean Drive
Tel: (305) 531 3484.
Website: www.mdpl.org
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2200, Fri and Sat 1000-2400.
Admission: Free; US$20 (guided tours); concessions available.

Miami Beach
Miami Beach is located on a long slender island connected to mainland Miami by four main causeways. It comprises various coastal towns, each with its own personality – including Surfside, the upscale shopping district of Bal Harbour, Sunny Isles Beach, South Beach (see above) and Golden Beach. Miami Beach’s white sands extend from Lincoln Road Mall northwards to 87th Street, with a scenic boardwalk popular with joggers and strollers, and pastel-coloured Art Deco lifeguard stations dotting the shoreline. A variety of watersports are available, including windsurfing, sailing, jet-skiing and parasailing.

Lincoln Road Mall to 87th Street
Transport: Bus C, G, H, L, M, S or W.

Bal Harbour Shops
9700 Collins Road
Tel: (305) 866 0311.
Website: www.balharbourshops.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-2100, Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1200-1800.
Admission: Free.

Little Havana
After Fidel Castro took power in 1959, refugees fleeing Cuba settled just west of downtown Miami, in a neighbourhood known as Little Havana. Today, with its 800,000-strong Cuban-American community, this colourful district has a distinctly Latin atmosphere with its Spanish signs, Cuban coffee bars and restaurants, small cigar factories and street-side food stalls, selling such delicacies as baho (Cuban stew) and freshly squeezed juices. Monuments to anti-Castro Cubans line the streets, especially around Calle Ocho (Eighth Street), the liveliest part of Little Havana and the venue for the Calle Ocho Festival, a famous annual spring carnival – America’s largest street party.

Little Havana
Transport: Metrorail Vizcaya; then bus 17 or 24.

Key Biscayne
Linked to the mainland by the Rickenbacker Causeway, Key Biscayne combines traditional Florida-style houses with ostentatious mansions belonging to some of Miami’s wealthiest residents. The beaches here rank among Florida’s best – their fine sand and relatively calm seas make them a popular choice for families. Other top attractions include two beautiful parks (Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area and Crandon Park) both with magnificent beaches, bike trails and nature walks. The small Crandon Family Amusement Center in the park has an old-time carousel, playground and outdoor roller rink.

Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area
1200 South Crandon Boulevard
Tel: (305) 361 5811.
Website: www.dep.state.fl.us/parks
Transport: Bus B.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-sunset.
Admission: US$1 walk-in ; US$5 per car (maximum 8pp), US$3 single occupancy.

Crandon Park
4000 Crandon Boulevard
Tel: (305) 361 5421 or 7388/5 (Amusement Center).
Website: www.miamidade.gov/parks/parks/crandon_amusement.asp
Transport: Bus B.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-sunset (park); daily 1000-1900 (Amusement Center).
Admission: Free; US$4 (parking); US$1 (three carousel rides).

Miami Seaquarium
Located on beautiful Biscayne Bay, the Miami Seaquarium has over 10,000 aquatic creatures on display – including crocodiles, ‘gators’ and seals, as well as fish of every imaginable shape, size and colour. Star acts include Lolita, a 7,000-pound killer whale (visitors should sit at least six rows back in the audience to keep dry), Salty the sea lion and TV superstar Flipper the dolphin. The most impressive aspect of Seaquarium, however, is its genuine attempt to preserve and protect marine life. The in-house Marine Mammal Rescue Team is constantly striving to save stranded or injured manatees, dolphins and whales in the waters of South Florida. Other exhibits include Discovery Bay, a natural mangrove habitat used to rehabilitate rescued sea turtles; and the special Manatee Exhibit where manatees are nursed back to health, ready for release into the wild.

4400 Rickenbacker Causeway, Key Biscayne
Tel: (305) 361 5705. Fax: (305) 365 0075.
Website: www.miamiseaquarium.com
Transport: Bus B.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800.
Admission: US$25.95; concessions available.

Coconut Grove
Located on the edge of Biscayne Bay, south of downtown Miami, Coconut Grove is one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, with bohemian roots. Settled by a multicultural group of Bahamians and New Englanders, the neighbourhood drew artists and intellectuals, who set up summer homes here. Today, it is a trendy district with a bustling village atmosphere, full of colourful galleries, theatres, nightclubs, fine restaurants, hip sidewalk cafs and shops. The main attraction is The Gallery at CocoWalk, a stylish shopping mall packed with restaurants, bars, shops and a cinema. It is also home to the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens (see below).

Transport: Metrorail Coconut Grove.

The Gallery at CocoWalk
3015 Grand Avenue
Tel: (305) 444 0777.
Website: www.galleryatcocowalk.com
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1100-2200, Fri and Sat 1100-2400 (bars and restaurants until 0200).
Admission: Free.

Coral Gables
This elegant Mediterranean-style residential district (16km (10 miles) southwest of downtown Miami) was created by local developer George Merrick during the boom years of the 1920s. Today, it contains some of the city’s finest architecture, set amid broad boulevards, canals and parkland. Some buildings are preserved as historic landmarks, including the stunning Biltmore Hotel, identified by its 15-storey tower modelled on the Giralda bell-tower in Seville. The remarkable Venetian Pool, transformed from a mere rock quarry in 1923, has exotic bridges and waterfalls and was the site of many high-society soires and beauty pageants in its time, as the vintage on-site photographs reveal. Today, it is the only swimming pool on the National Register of Historic Places. Coral Gables is also known for its art galleries, its exclusive Miracle Mile shopping street, its neatly manicured golf courses and some of the best hotels and restaurants in town.

Transport: Metrorail Douglas Road, then bus 42, 72 or J.

Biltmore Hotel
1200 Anastasia Avenue
Tel: (305) 445 1926. Fax: (305) 913 3159.
Website: www.biltmorehotel.com

Venetian Pool
2701 De Soto Boulevard
Tel: (305) 460 5306/57.
Website: www.venetianpool.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1930, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (Jun-Aug); Mon-Thurs 1100-1730, Sat and Sun 1000-1630 (Sep, Oct, Apr and May); Tues-Sun 1000-1630 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: US$9.50 (Apr-Oct); US$6.25 (Nov-Mar).

Historical Museum of Southern Florida
This museum offers a fascinating insight into the region’s past. It has a small but impressive collection of hands-on displays, archive material, historical objects and multimedia presentations, which covers 10,000 years of Florida history from the first settlers to the present day.

Miami-Dade Cultural Center, 101 West Flagler Street, downtown Miami
Tel: (305) 375 1492. Fax: (305) 375 1609.
E-mail: hasf@historical-museum.org
Website: www.historical-museum.org
Transport: Metrorail Government Center.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700, every third Thurs 1000-2100, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$5; concessions available.

Miami Museum of Science and Planetarium
The nationally renowned Miami Museum of Science and Planetarium, associated with the Smithsonian Institute, features interactive scientific exhibits on physics, electricity, light, sound and anatomy, as well as daily astronomy and laser shows in the adjacent planetarium. It also boasts South Florida’s largest natural history collection and a wildlife centre that rehabilitates injured birds of prey and reptiles and displays more than 175 live animals.

3280 South Miami Avenue, Coconut Grove
Tel: (305) 646 4200. Fax: (305) 646 4300.
Website: www.miamisci.org
Transport: Bus 48; or Metrorail Vizcaya.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last entry at 1700).
Admission: US$10; concessions available.

Art Museums
The Miami Art Museum displays international art since World War II, complemented by art from other periods to provide historical perspective. Meanwhile, the new Miami Beach Cultural Park has many art institutions, one of which is the Bass Museum. The permanent exhibits of this weighty art museum focus on European works from the 15th to 18th centuries. A new wing, designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, also has a outdoor sculpture garden. The Wolfsonian Museum, affiliated with the Florida International University, was founded by an eccentric world-traveller and Miami native from his own collection of modern design and ‘propaganda arts’. One-of-a-kind exhibits address 19th- and 20th-century political themes, displaying the arts and crafts that were created to persuade, nationalise or rally citizens. The gift shop sells high-design home decor objects and lovely art books.

Miami Art Museum
Miami-Dade Cultural Center, 101 West Flagler Street, downtown Miami
Tel: (305) 375 3000. Fax: (305) 375 1725.
Website: www.miamiartmuseum.org
Transport: Metrorail Government Center.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1200-1700, third Thurs of the month 1000-2100.
Admission: US$5; concessions available; free on Sun and second Sat of the month.

Bass Museum
2121 Park Avenue, at 21st Street, Miami Beach
Tel: (305) 673 7530.
Website: www.bassmuseum.org
Transport: Bus J.
Opening hours: Tues–Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700, second Thurs of the month 1000-2100, closed Mondays and holidays.
Admission: US$6; concessions available.

Wolfsonian Museum
1001 Washington Avenue, South Beach
Tel: (305) 531 1001. Fax: (305) 531 2133.
Website: www.wolfsonian.fiu.edu
Transport: Bus J or Electrowave shuttle.
Opening hours: Mon-Tues, Fri and Sat 1100-1800; Thurs 1100-2100, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$5; concessions available.

Zoos
Miami MetroZoo, just south of Miami, is a state-of-the-art cageless zoo, with over 700 animals of 240 species roaming the 116-hectare (290-acre) grounds, separated by moats from spectators. Wildlife shows, a petting zoo, tram tours, monorail, gift shops, food courts and a playground provide fun for all the family. MetroZoo has also won a number of awards for its successful breeding of rare and endangered animal species.

At Monkey Jungle, the humans are kept in caged walkways while the primates roam freely. Here, visitors can see North America’s first colony of wild monkeys, crab-eating monkeys diving for treats and hundreds of other exotic primates in lush, tropical jungle surroundings.

The relocated Parrot Jungle and Gardens, now on its own island between Miami and Miami Beach, is a unique bird sanctuary-cum-botanical garden with more than 1,100 birds and 100 plant varieties, together with alligators, giant tortoises and apes. Spectacular trained bird shows run throughout the day and children can help hand-feed the birds, hold one of the free-flying macaws or play with the animals at the petting zoo.

Miami MetroZoo
12400 SW 152nd Street (Coral Reef Drive), Richmond Heights
Tel: (305) 251 0400. Fax: (305) 378 6381.
Website: www.miamimetrozoo.com
Transport: Metrorail Dadeland South; then Metrobus Coral Reef MAX to Miami Metrozoo.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730 (last entry at 1600).
Admission: US$11.50; concessions available.

Monkey Jungle
14805 SW 216th Street
Tel: (305) 235 1611. Fax: (305) 235 4253.
Website: www.monkeyjungle.com
Transport: Bus 35 to Cutler Ridge Mall.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (last entry at 1600).
Admission: US$17.95; concessions available.

Parrot Jungle and Gardens
Watson Island, off I-395 MacArthur Causeway
Tel: (305) 666 7834. Fax: (305) 661 2230.
Website: www.parrotjungle.com
Transport: No public transport currently.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last entry at 1700).
Admission: US$24.95; concessions available.

Further Distractions

Fairchild Tropical Garden
This magnificent 33-hectare (83-acre) botanical garden is located just south of Coconut Grove. It contains extensive collections of rare tropical plants, a 1,440-sq-metre (16,000-sq-foot) conservatory, 11 lakes and lily ponds and a rainforest exhibit, set among a waterfall and stream.

10901 Old Cutler Road, Coral Gables
Tel: (305) 667 1651. Fax: (305) 661 8953.
Website: www.fairchildgarden.org
Transport: Bus 65.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630.
Admission: US$10; concessions available.

Vizcaya Museum and Gardens
Vizcaya is a beautiful Italian Renaissance-style palace set in four hectares (10 acres) of picturesque formal gardens, south of downtown Miami on Biscayne Bay. Built as a winter residence for the Chicago industrialist, James Deering, in 1916, the mansion is modelled on neo-classical designs and its 70 rooms are filled with antique furnishings spanning the 15th to 19th centuries. Tours are available.

3251 South Miami Avenue, Coconut Grove
Tel: (305) 250 9133. Fax: (305) 285 2004.
Website: www.vizcayamuseum.com
Transport: Metrorail Vizcaya.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700; gardens until 1730 (last entry at 1630).
Admission: US$12; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Miami Design Preservation League (tel: (305) 672 2014 or 531 3484; website: www.mdpl.org) conducts 90-minute walking tours of South Beach’s Art Deco Historic District (Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun at 1030 and Thursday at 1830), departing from its Art Deco Welcome Center, 1001 Ocean Drive, and costing US$20. Self-guided audio tours are available here daily and cost US$15 to rent the 45-minute cassettes.

Bus Tours
Dragonfly Expeditions (tel: (305) 774 9019) and Dade Heritage Trust, 190 SE 12th Terrace (tel: (305) 358 9572; fax: (305) 358 1162; website: www.dadeheritagetrust.org), operate the ‘Miami Magic City Bus Tour’, which takes in the city’s most famous and historic neighbourhoods in a three- to four-hour tour costing US$40.

Boat Tours
Island Queen Cruises, Bayside Marketplace, 401 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 379 5119; website: www.islandqueencruises.com), tour Miami Bay in one and a half hours, travelling past the Port and exclusive Millionaire’s Row – home to such celebrities as Gloria Estefan, the Bee Gees, Oprah Winfrey, Boris Becker, Paul Newman and Whitney Houston. The tours depart from Bayside Marketplace daily (Mon-Thurs 1100-1600, 1730 and 1930; Fri-Sun hourly from 1100-1900) and cost US$16 (concessions are available). The Urban Trails Kayak Company, 3400 NE 163rd Street (tel: (305) 947 0302; website: www.urbantrails.com) offers a unique way to see Miami and outlying natural areas. Self-guided tours and expedition packages of varying length and difficulty are offered. Rates vary, call or visit website for information. Rent a kayak starting at US$8 per hour or full day for US$25.

Other Tours
Dr Paul George Bike Tours at the Historical Museum of Southern Florida, 101 East Flagler Street (tel: (305) 375 16251; website: www.historical-museum.org/educate/tours/tours.htm) offers tours with the noted local historian throughout the year. Reservations are required. Consult their website for tour and cost information. The Miami Beach Bicycle Center, 601 Fifth Street (tel: (305) 674 0150), rents bicycles and provides maps for self-guided tours. Prices start at US$8 per hour or US$20 per day.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Fort Lauderdale: Only 40km (25 miles) north of Miami, this smart east coast resort and international yachting centre is often described as the ‘Venice of America’ because of its many canals and waterways. It is easily accessible by train from Miami railway station but really has so much to recommend it that a full day could happily be passed here. It boasts magnificent sandy beaches, as well as excellent shopping and nightlife. Attractions include the contemporary collections of the Museum of Art, the Museum of Discovery and Science and the spectacular Hugh Taylor Birch State Park and Recreation Area. The Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau, Suite 200, 100 East Broward Boulevard (tel: (954) 765 4466; fax: (954) 765 4467; website: www.sunny.org), provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Everglades: South of Miami, the Everglades National Park is the second largest national park in America, with its 6,070 sq kilometres (2,344 sq miles) of marshes, mangrove forests, freshwater and saltwater areas and open grass prairies. Gator-spotting is one of the main attractions in this vast subtropical wilderness, which is also home to an abundance of rare plants, birds and animals – including wild orchids, Florida panthers, ospreys, manatees, giant loggerhead turtles, the Everglades mink, the Florida black bear and the only saltwater crocodiles in America. There are several entry points, each with Visitor Centers that organise ranger-led walks and talks, boat and tram tours, as well as canoe trails. The main Visitor Center (tel: (305) 242 7700; fax: (305) 242 7711; website: www.nps.gov/ever) is just southwest of Homestead, south on the Florida Turnpike (Route 821) until it merges with US-1 at Florida City, where drivers should turn right onto Palm Drive (State Road 9336/SW 344th Street) and follow the signposts. The park is open 24 hours a day, all year round. The Visitor Centers are open daily 0800-1700. Admission costs US$10 per vehicle or US$5 walk-in.

The Keys: This chain of small coral-and-limestone islands (‘keys’) south of Miami, stretches 180km (113 miles) out across Florida Bay and is linked by just one highway, the US-1. The keys have a unique atmosphere (more slow Caribbean than fast-paced American) and offer some of the best sport fishing, scuba diving, boating, swimming and snorkelling in the world. Further information is available from the Florida Keys and Key West Visitor’s Bureau, 402 Wall Street, Key West (tel: (305) 294 2587; website: www.fla-keys.com).

Key West: The most visited island in the Keys, Key West, is at the southernmost point of Continental USA, just 144km (90 miles) north of Cuba. This 5-km (3.5-mile) -long sandbar is renowned for its sunset celebrations, its key lime pie, its sizeable gay community and for being the home of Ernest Hemingway (see Literary Notes in Culture). The Key West Information Center, 1601 North Roosevelt Boulevard, Key West (tel: (305) 292 5000; e-mail: info@keywestinfo.com; website: www.keywestinfo.com), provides further information.

Sport

Miami is an excellent city for spectator sports. Several major American teams hail from Miami, including basketball heroes, Miami Heat (website: www.nba.com/heat), who play at home between November and April, at the American Airlines Arena, 601 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 577 4328 or 960 8500; website: www.aaarena.com). Miami’s top football team, the Miami Dolphins (website: www.miamidolphins.com), plays at the Pro Player Stadium, 2267 NW 199th Street (tel: (305) 623 6100), from August to December, as do baseball’s Florida Marlins (website: www.flamarlins.com). Their season runs from April to September.

Tickets to sporting events can be purchased direct from the venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (305) 358 5885; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Beaches: The public South Beach stretch from First Street to 15th Street is the wide, pristine sand that everyone refers to when they talk about Miami Beach. The Third Street Beach is popular with families, while the 12th Street Beach area is the gay-friendly section. Toplessness among women on public beaches is common and regarded casually. The only beach where clothing is entirely optional is north of Bal Harbour, at Haulover Beach Park, in North Miami Beach. Bill Baggs is the most spectacular of Key Biscayne beaches but Crandon Park draws equal numbers of sun worshippers to its shores even though it is a bit of a walk from the parking area to the sand.

Diving: The Biscayne National Underwater Park, 9700 SW 328th Street, Homestead (tel: (305) 230 7275; website: www.nps.gov/bisc), with over 72,400 hectares (181,000 acres) of marine habitat and live coral reefs, is popular for diving, snorkelling and glass-bottom boat rides. PADI-registered South Beach Divers, 850 Washington Avenue (tel: (305) 531 6110; e-mail: info@southbeachdivers.com; website: www.southbeachdivers.com), offers lessons, equipment and daily diving trips.

Fishing: Deep-sea fishing day trips are operated by a variety of companies, including the six-person vessel Therapy-IV, 10800 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach (tel: 305) 945 1578; website: www.therapy4.com), which starts at US$125per person. Reward Fishing Fleet, Miami Beach Marina, off the MacArthur Causeway (tel: (305) 372 9470; website: www.fishingmiami.com), includes all the necessary equipment. Rates start at US$35 per person.

Fitness Centres: Many hotels in body-conscious Miami provide some type of fitness centre. American chain fitness centres have several branches around Greater Miami and sell daily passes, which start at around US$25. These include: Crunch Fitness, 1259 Washington Avenue (tel: (305) 674 8222; website: www.crunch.com), with an array of aerobic, yoga and fitness classes, or Gold’s Gym, 1400 Alton Road, South Beach (tel: (305) 538 4653; website: www.goldsgym.com), with its serious weight-training focus. Local gyms, such as Ironworks, 1676 Alton Road, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 531 4743; website: www.southbeachironworks.com), have less expensive rates. Day spas are all the rage in Miami and can be found in many of the big hotels. Sundari Spa, owned by model Christie Turlington and situated in the Shore Club Resort, 1901 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 695 3292; website: www.shoreclub.com), has received a lot of attention for its Asian Ayurvedic scrubs and soaks from its gorgeous rooftop locale. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Spa (see Hotels) is popular for its local algae treatments.

Golf: Florida is a golfer’s paradise, with favourable weather year round and more courses than any other American state. The Biltmore Golf Club, 1210 Anastasia Avenue, Coral Gables (tel: (305) 460 5364), is among Miami’s most beautiful courses. Green fees are US$120 before 1400 or US$100 after 1400 and include golf cart. Crandon Golf Course, 6700 Crandon Boulevard, Key Biscayne (tel: (305) 361 9129), is one of America’s top-ranked municipal courses and home to the Royal Caribbean Classic golf tournament. Green fees are US$148 or US$39 after 1500. Doral Golf Resort and Spa, 4400 NW 87th Avenue (tel: (305) 592 2000; website: www.doralresort.com), boasts five 18-hole courses, each varying in difficulty, from the Great White course to the notorious Monster Blue. Green fees (depending on course and season) are US$195-275. All golf clubs mentioned are open to the public and do not require membership.

In-line Skating: Visitors can join the South Beach crowd and rent a pair of in-line skates from Fritz’s Skate and Bike Shop, 730 Lincoln Road (tel: (305) 532 1954), hires out skates hourly or daily. Free lessons are offered on Sunday.

Public Swimming Pools: Miami-Dade County operates three public pool/park facilities that are open year-round, and 14 operational during the summer months only. The A D Barnes Park, 3401 SW 72 Avenue (tel: 305 666 5883; website: www.metro-dade.com/parks/Parks/ad_barnes.asp) is a 65-acre park nestled in the heart of one of the busiest areas of Miami. The park offers a heated swimming pool and is home to The Sense of Wonder Nature Center and Trail set within one of the few remaining Pine Rocklands in Miami-Dade County. A complete list of public pools and their various operating hours of access can be found at www.metro-dade.com/parks/pools.asp.

Sailing: Miami Boat Charters, 542 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 673 3956; website: www.miamiboat.com), offers boat rentals and yacht charters, manned and un-manned, from Miami Bay, along with many other outfitters and charter companies that use the marinas and docks along the strip at Bayshore Drive.

Tennis: There are public courts at the North Shore Tennis Center, 350 73rd Street, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 993 2022), the Biltmore Tennis Centre, 1150 Anastasia Avenue, Coral Gables (tel: (305) 460 5360), and the Tennis Center at Crandon Park, 7300 Crandon Boulevard, Key Biscayne (tel: (305) 365 2300), where the NASDAQ-100 Open is held. Crandon Park courts are illuminated for night play, although reservations are required.

Shopping

Shopping opportunities abound in Miami, with a broad assortment of facilities ranging from sophisticated malls to small specialist boutiques. Miracle Mile in Coral Gables has quality galleries, boutiques and department stores, while the 6.4-hectare (16-acre) waterfront Bayside Marketplace, in downtown Miami, offers an unusual mix of retail shops and local artisan stalls. Other key areas are the funky boutiques of South Beach (most notably the Lincoln Road shopping district, nicknamed the ‘Fifth Avenue of the South’), The Gallery at CocoWalk (see Coconut Grove in Key Attractions) the exclusive Streets of Mayfair shopping centres in Coconut Grove and the numerous malls scattered about Greater Miami. A stretch of Collins Avenue, between Sixth and Eighth Streets, in South Beach, has a handful of local boutiques and medium-price chain stores like Banana Republic, Urban Outfitters and A/X Armani Exchange.

For chic interiors and objects for the home, nothing surpasses the Miami Design District (NE 36th to NE 41st Streets, between NE Second Avenue and North Miami Avenue; website: www.designmiami.com), where high-end decor and furniture shops are open to the public.

Aventura Mall, 19501 Biscayne Boulevard, Aventura (tel: (305) 935 1110; website: www.shopaventuramall.com), is one of the most popular malls, featuring Burdines, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Sears, JC Penney and over 250 smaller shops. Bal Harbour, 9700 Collins Avenue (see Miami Beach in Key Attractions), is renowned for its high-end designer boutiques, such as Gucci and Tiffany. Sawgrass Mills, 12801 West Sunrise Boulevard, in Fort Lauderdale (tel: (954) 846 2300; website: www.sawgrassmillsmall.com), is the place to shop for bargains – it is the world’s largest outlet mall with more than 300 discounted brand-name stores.

Most malls are open Monday to Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800. Most supermarkets open daily 0800-2200, although some are open 24 hours. Sales taxes are 6.5% on all goods – and there is no system for claiming this back. Credit cards are widely accepted.

Culture

As home to the Florida Grand Opera, the New World Symphony, and the Jackie Gleason Theater of the Performing Arts, Miami’s cultural life is very much alive and kicking. The local newspapers are a good way for visitors to find out what is on: the New Times (website: www.miaminewtimes.com) or the Friday edition of the Miami Herald are best. An excellent online events calendar (website: www.miami.nightguide.com) also gives daily listings of special events.

Tickets can be bought at the various venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (305) 358 5885; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Music: The Florida Grand Opera (website: www.fgo.org) is undergoing a renaissance, entertaining audiences with its repertoire of well-loved classics and lesser-known works, at the Broward Center for the Performing Arts, 201 SW 5th Avenue, Fort Lauderdale (tel: (954) 522 5334; website: www.browardcenter.org). The New World Symphony (website: www.nws.org), America’s unique orchestral academy, plays from late September to early May in the historic Lincoln Theatre, 555 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 673 3331). The only symphony orchestra of its kind in the world, the New World Symphony, has been training gifted graduates for careers in music since 1987 and sometimes plays at the historic Gusman Center for the Performing Arts, 174 East Flagler Street (tel: (305) 374 2444; website: http://gusmancenter.org), a renovated 1920s movie palace, which now stages a huge variety of arts events, including the annual Miami Film Festival. The Concert Association of Florida, 1470 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 808 7446; website: www.concertfla.org) prides itself on bringing world-renowned orchestras and performers to the South Florida community at a variety of venues. The Performing Arts Center of Greater Miami, Suite 100, 1444 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 377 1220; website: www.pacfmiami.org) will open the doors of a brand new facility for music and dance in the fall of 2006 and is representing all of the above mentioned organizations in the interim. Visitors might also enjoy an event at the Miami-Dade Auditorium, 2901 west Flagler Street (tel: (305) 547 5414); a schedule of events is available by phone or at their box office.

Theatre: The Jackie Gleason Theater of the Performing Arts, 1700 Washington Avenue (tel: (305) 673 7300; website: www.gleasontheater.com), is Miami Beach’s top artistic venue, showcasing Broadway shows, concerts and dance from the Florida Philharmonic, the Miami City Ballet, the Concert Association of Florida and other celebrated productions. Also on South Beach, the intimate Art Deco Colony Theatre, 1040 Lincoln Road (tel: (305) 674 1026; website: www.colonytheatre.org), hosts an exciting and varied programme of dance, theatre, music and film. Other major theatres include the Edge Theater, 405 Espanola Way, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 531 6083), noted for its comedies and its 20th-century classics, and the Coconut Grove Playhouse, 3500 Main Highway, Coconut Grove (tel: (305) 442 4000; website: www.cgplayhouse.com), nationally recognised for its innovative productions.

Dance: Florida’s internationally acclaimed dance company, the Miami City Ballet (website: www.miamicityballet.org), performs a wide repertoire of classical and contemporary works, at a variety of venues including the Jackie Gleason Theater (see Theatre above).

Film: There are cinema complexes at every major shopping mall. IMAX thrill-seekers will find satisfaction at the Blockbuster IMAX 3D Theater at the Museum of Discovery and Science, 401 SW Second Street, Fort Lauderdale (tel: (954) 713 0930; website: www.mods.org), offering a a 300-seat 3-D movie-going experience, with a five storey high screen and a 15,000 watt dynamic wraparound sound system. Arthouse aficionados should head to the Bill Cosford Cinema, in the University of Miami’s Memorial Building, Coral Gables (tel: (305) 284 4861).

Miami’s film and entertainment industry has grown dramatically in recent years. Indeed, the city’s old reputation for brashness was built on the television series Miami Vice in the 1980s, and the underbelly of the city still gets full exposure on current TV shows such as the popular CSI: Miami. Miami is now the third largest centre for film and TV production in America. Recent films set here include Something about Mary (1998), The Birdcage (1996), Ace Ventura (1994), True Lies (1994), Get Shorty (1995) and the unsuccessful adaptation of Carl Hiaasen’s locally set novel, Striptease (1996). Not forgetting the classics, such as Citizen Kane (1941), Key Largo (1948) and three James Bond movies – Dr No (1962), Live and Let Die (1973) and Goldfinger (1964).

Cultural Events: The Art Deco Weekend (website: www.artdecoweekend.com) is the world’s largest annual festival dedicated to the preservation of this unique style. It takes place every January, with a huge programme of street theatre, big band concerts and processions in South Beach. The Miami International Film Festival (website: www.maimifilmfestival.com) is a 10-day event (February), which showcases films and videos from international and US filmmakers, with a special focus on Iberno-American cinema and a forum for smaller, independent works. The Miami Book Fair International (website: www.miamibookfair.com) takes place in mid-November, leading up to American Thanksgiving, with night readings, lectures and workshops with top authors, as well as a book fair.

Literary Notes: Miami itself has little literary history. However, over the years, numerous writers have made Florida their home, in particular Key West. Among them were Ernest Hemingway (1899-1960), author of A Farewell to Arms (1929), For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940) and The Old Man and the Sea (1952); Elizabeth Bishop (1911-79), one of the most celebrated American poets of this century; and Tennessee Williams (1911-83), playwright and author of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1944) and A Streetcar Named Desire (1955). Hemingway (the rough, tough, local novelist) built his reputation in the bars of Key West (see Excursions). The beautiful Spanish colonial-style house, 907 Whitehead Street (tel: (305) 294 1136; website: www.hemingwayhome.com), where he wrote some of his finest works, is open to the public. The contemporary American novelist, Alison Lurie, also has a house in Key West and set one of her novels, The Truth about Lorin Jones (1989), there, while novelist Carl Hiaasen traditionally sets his works such as Skin Tight (1987), Tourist Season (1987), Sick Puppy (2001), etc, in Florida, Miami in particular. Mario Sanchez is among a new generation of Cuban ex-pat writers who call Miami home and brings a humorous and sartorial tone to his acclaimed work Miami, Only Worse (2002).

Nightlife

Miami never sleeps. When the sun goes down, the stars come out. Celebrities from the entertainment world spend the balmy tropical evenings sipping martinis at hip lounges and open-air cafs, before hitting the hot pulsating dance clubs, the cool jazz bars and the countless salsa venues.

The main nightlife district is South Beach. Local Latin/Pop diva Gloria Estefan has a restaurant-bar on Ocean Drive. South Beach’s Art Deco buildings (neon-lit with vibrant yellows, blues, pinks and purples) provide a suitably light-hearted backdrop to a hedonistic nightlife. In the evenings, the bars are abuzz with a colourful, cosmopolitan crowd. After midnight, the whole of South Beach throbs to the international rhythms of its club scene, which offers some of the hottest nightlife in America.

Bars close around 0100 and nightclubs around 0600. The average price of a drink while out and about in Miami is US$8-15 (cocktails etc); beer is about US$5. The minimum age for admission to all clubs in Miami Beach (including South Beach) is 21 years, the minimum drinking age in Florida. It is advisable to carry ID and dress codes often require chic attire. Check out the New Times (website: www.miaminewtimes.com) or the Friday section of the Miami Herald for listings.

Bars: The local scene changes frequently but the following are some of the South Beach bars that are currently ‘in’. B.E.D., 929 Washington Avenue, is named from the abbreviation for beverages, entertainment and dining, but also offers pillow-covered king-size beds in place of tables and chairs. The super-stylish Pearl, 1 Ocean Drive, appeals to the well-off and the well-dressed. Rose Bar at the Delano serves up fancy cocktails off the airy lobby of the glamorous Delano Hotel, 1685 Collins Avenue. Sensual Tantra, 1445 Pennsylvania Avenue, sparked a genre of Miami resto-lounges, proffering a top-notch meal in an exotic setting (grass flooring and Turkish tobacco hookahs) that transforms into a nightclub (the DJ spins Middle Eastern fusion). For a real change of pace, try The Laundry Bar, 721 Lincoln Lane (website: www.laundrybar.com) whose motto is ‘where your clothes get washed while you get sloshed’, offering full bar and dance floor as well as wash/dry/fold and dry-cleaning services!

Larios on the Beach, 820 Ocean Drive, is owned by Gloria Estefan, and serves lethal mohitos (fresh mint, sugar and rum cocktails) alongside nightly funky Cuban music. Metro Kitchen+Bar at Hotel Astor, 956 Washington Avenue, is renowned for its martinis. The Clevelander Hotel’s legendary outdoor bar and dance club, 1020 Ocean Drive, is a hotspot among the 20-somethings. The News Caf, 800 Ocean Drive, one of the Beach’s coolest hangouts (open 24 hours), was the venue for Gianni Versace’s last drink.

Casinos: The Casino Princesa (tel: (305) 379 5825; website: www.casinoprincesa.com) offers Las Vegas-style ‘gaming cruises’ for up to 600 passengers, with on-board blackjack, craps, roulette and slot machines. Four-and-a-half-hour trips (US$9.95) leave Bayside Harbour (adjacent to the Hard Rock Caf), 315 Biscayne Boulevard. Departure times are daily at 1230 and 1930. Dress code is casual, the minimum age is 21 years and ID is required. Boarding begins one hour prior to departure.

Clubs: Colour and mood change at will at Amika, 1532 Washington Avenue (website: www.amikamiami.com), the newest kid on the South Beach beat.an exclusive club with a hi-tech LED system that changes the wall colours and ambiance of this celebrity haunt, owned by popular South Beach figure, Tony Guerra. Nikki Beach Club, 1 Ocean Drive, is right on the beach and has an indoor/outdoor dance floor and a young, supermodel crowd. The gay-friendly Crobar, 1445 Washington Avenue (website: www.crobar.com), has angels on bungee cords above the packed dance floor. Usher and Paris Hilton have been spotted in Mansion, 1235 Washington Avenue, an old movie house and now a massive clubbing venue reminiscent of New York’s Studio 54, while the Opium Garden, 136 Collins Avenue (Mansion and Opium Garden website: www.theopiumgroup.com), is a house and hip hop dance club in an Eastern temple setting. Big spenders and celebrities come to enjoy this open-air amphitheatre venue, including Enrique Iglesias and Missy Elliot. Club Deep, 621 Washington Avenue (website: www.clubdeep.com) offers hip-hop and R&B on a 2,000-gallon aquarium dance floor. In Coconut Grove, try Oxygen Lounge for a subterranean experience, Streets of Mayfair Mall, 2911 Grand Avenue (website: www.oxygenlounge.biz), one of a handful of dance clubs in the area.

Live Music: For the latest Latin rhythms, try Kaffe Krystal, 10855 SW 72nd Street, Miami (website: www.kaffekrystal.net), which has a large dancefloor and hosts live bands and DJs playing authentic salsa music. La Covacha, 10730 NW 25th Street, is one of the hottest places in Miami for salsa, merengue and Latin hip hop, while the hugely popular Mango’s Tropical Caf , 900 Ocean Drive (website: www.mangostropicalcafe.com), has flamboyant South Beach salsa with dancing on the tables and in the street. At Miami Beach, the laid-back Van Dyke Caf, 846 Lincoln Road, and the more upmarket jazz club Jazid (website: www.jazid.net), 1342 Washington Avenue, both have live jazz and blues nightly.

City Statistics

Location: Florida, USA.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 362,470 (city); 2.1 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 65.8% Hispanic, 21.6% white, 11.8% black, 0.1% other.
Religion: Predominantly Christian.
Time zone: GMT - 5 (Eastern Standard Time).
Electricity: 110-115 volts AC, 60Hz; flat two- or three-prong plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 19.5C (67F).
Average July temp: 28.5C (83F).
Annual rainfall: 1,425mm (56.1 inches).

Special Events

Deco Weekend, festival for the preservation and celebration of Art Deco (website: www.artdecoweekend.com), Jan, South Beach
Coconut Grove Arts Festival, multimedia arts event (website: www.coconutgroveartsfest.com), President’s Day weekend, Feb, Coconut Grove
Miami International Film Festival, 10-day festival featuring Hollywood and International independent films and celebrity parties in the Design District (website: www.miamifilmfestival.com), early Feb, Gusman Center for the Performing Arts, downtown Miami, and other venues
South Beach Wine & Food Festival, culinary festival featuring world-class wine and food tasting, gourmet dinners, and culinary demonstrations (website: www.sobewineandfoodfest.com), late Feb, various venues
Ford Championship, golf tournament, late Feb-early Mar, Doral Golf Resort and Spa
Florida Derby, horseracing (website: www.gulfstreampark.com), Apr, Gulfstream Park
Carnaval Miami, a nine-day festival, with parades and entertainment (website: www.carnavalmiami.com), leading up to Calle Ocho Festival, early Mar, Little Havana
Calle Ocho Festival, the largest one-day Cuban-American festival and street party in America, early Mar, Little Havana
NASDAQ-100 Open, ATP tour tennis competition (website: www.nasdaq-100open.com), late Mar-early Apr, Crandon Park Tennis Center, Key Biscayne
Miami/Bahamas Goombay Festival, three-day Caribbean entertainment and food festival (website: www.goombayfestival.com), first weekend in Jun, Coconut Grove
Fourth of July, rides, parade, food stalls and fireworks, 4 Jul, Bayfront Park and Key Biscayne
Hispanic Heritage Festival, the oldest Hispanic cultural festival in America, with food fair and entertainment for a month, leading up to a street party, Festival of the Americas (website: www.hispanicfestival.com), Oct, various venues
Festival Miami, four-week international music festival featuring world premieres, concerts, chamber music and jazz (website: www.music.miami.edu/festivalmiami), Oct, various venues
Junior Orange Bowl Festival, the world’s largest arts, culture and sports festival for youth; an accompanying parade takes place between Christmas and New Year’s (website: www.jrorangebowl.com), Oct-Jan, various venues
South Miami Art Festival, a juried festival and fair of artists and craftspeople, first weekend in Nov, Sunset Drive
Miami Book Fair International, night readings, lectures and workshops with top authors, book fair, mid-Nov, leading up to Thanksgiving (website: www.miamibookfair.com), downtown Wolfson campus of Miami-Dade Community College and other venues
Annual Winternational Thanksgiving Day Parade, fourth Thurs in Nov, starts at the Orange Bowl
King Mango Strut Parade, a quarter-century old tradition, the parade parodies traditional holiday parades and spoofs national figures and current events, Dec 26, Coconut Grove
Fed Ex Orange Bowl Parade and Big Orange New Year’s Eve Celebration, football season events, 31 Dec, downtown Miami

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2
33cl bottle of beer: US$3.50
Miami Herald newspaper: US$0.35
36-exposure colour film: US$6
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.25
Adult football ticket: US$27-140
Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$20-125

1 American Dollar (US$1) = 0.52; C$1.25; A$1.28; 0.77
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005