World City Guide

Mini Guide of Melbourne

City Overview

A vibrant cosmopolitan city, located on the magnificent Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne is the state capital and cultural heart of Victoria. The locals’ claim that it is ‘the best city in the world to live in’ may rankle their rivals in Sydney but few would dispute that it is indeed a fascinating place to visit. In fact, the traditional rivalry between Melbourne and Sydney, which covers every sphere of life from business to sport and culture, has resulted in a proud, dynamic city that strives to be the best in all things.

All state roads lead into the city and Victoria’s unique geography means that it is possible to spend the morning on the coast, ski in the afternoon in the Victorian Alps and enjoy an aperitif at a winery, before returning to Melbourne to take in a show at one of the many theatres.

The banks of the Yarra River, home to Aborigines for thousands of years, attracted British settlers who founded Port Phillip Bay in 1835. The settlement rapidly expanded and by 1851, the city – named after Queen Victoria’s Prime Minister, Lord Melbourne – was born. In the same year, gold was discovered near Ballarat and Bendigo, to the west of Melbourne, and the ensuing gold rush turned the city into a powerful financial centre, as well as the first political capital, until Canberra was established in 1927.

Numerous gardens and parks give a pleasant, open feel to the city, whose skyline mixes elegant spires with dazzling modern skyscrapers, which dwarf the elegant Victorian-era buildings that are dotted along leafy streets. However, the city is defined more by its diverse population than by its architecture. Immigration at the end of World War II transformed Melbourne into a thriving cultural melting pot, totalling over three million people, with sizeable Italian, Greek and Chinese communities each carving out their own quarter. In fact, large-scale immigration has made Melbourne home to the largest Greek community outside Greece and the influx of Vietnamese and Lebanese has contributed to Melbourne’s claim to be the cultural capital of Australia. The introduction of European and Asian communities has resulted in an eclectic and energetic blend of theatre, music, art and literature. The international population has also brought a wealth of different cuisine, served up in a wide range of restaurants, from the outdoor cafs along the Crown Promenade overlooking the Yarra River, to the pizzerias in Carlton, the Chinese banquet halls in Chinatown and the fine seafood restaurants in trendy St Kilda Beach.

One topic that is guaranteed to be discussed over dinner is the weather. The city has four distinct seasons and usually enjoys a pleasant, temperate climate. However, winters can get chilly and summers usually see some swelteringly hot days. Sometimes, all four seasons occur in one day. The ever-optimistic locals joke that if one does not like the weather, one just have to wait ten minutes and it will change.

Getting There By Air

Melbourne Tullamarine International Airport (MEL)
Tel: (03) 9297 1600. Fax: (03) 9297 1886.
Website: www.melair.com.au

Located 21km (14 miles) northwest of the city, Tullamarine is served by 29 international airlines and four domestic and regional airlines. The airport caters for over 17 million passengers per year.

Major airlines: Qantas (tel: 131 313, Australia only; website: www.qantas.com.au) operates international and domestic flights from Melbourne. Virgin Blue (tel: 136 789, Australia only; website: www.virginblue.com) also has a growing domestic network. Other major airlines include Air China, Air New Zealand, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Continental Airlines, Emirates, Garuda Indonesia, Gulf Air, Malaysian Airlines, Olympic Airways, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and United Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Melbourne: From London is 22 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 21 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 16 hours 20 minutes; from Toronto is 21 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 1 hour 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include Sky Plaza shopping and food outlets, duty free, bureaux de change, ATMs, left-luggage, information desk and medical centre. Car hire companies include Avis, Budget and Hertz.

Business facilities: The Hilton Hotel, Melbourne Airport (tel: (03) 8336 2000), on top of the airport car park, has a business centre with meeting rooms and full facilities.

Departure tax: A departure tax of A$38 is included in the airfare.

Transport to the city: Taxis are readily available and the journey to the city centre costs approximately A$35 (journey time – 20 minutes). Buses, operated by Skybus (tel: (03) 9335 3066), run every 30 minutes (0530-2330) and then every hour. The journey to the city centre costs A$12 (journey time – 25 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Water
The Port of Melbourne is the largest general cargo port in Australia and among the top 25 busiest ports in the world. It is located four kilometres (2.5 miles) southwest of the city centre and is also the departure point for ferries to Tasmania. The port is overseen by the Melbourne Port Corporation (tel: (03) 9628 7555; fax: (03) 9628 7550; e-mail: information@melbport.com.au; website: www.melbport.com.au).

Station Pier (tel: (03) 9655 6541; fax (03) 9655 6558; e-mail: doi-odcs-pa-internet_mail_database-ports@doi.vic.gov.au; website: www.doi.vic.gov.au) is the sea passenger terminal at the port, accommodating cruise ships and ferries, as well as navy ships and tall ships. Facilities for passengers in the international passenger terminal include tourist information, a coffee shop, lounges, a gift shop, public telephones, information and ticketing for the tram service and a shuttle service to the tram (see below).

Ferry services: The Spirit of Tasmania, operated by TT-Line (tel: (03) 9206 6211; website: www.spiritoftasmania.com.au), departs for Devonport from the Inner East Berth at Station Pier, nightly at 2100 (journey time – 10 hours). There is an additional daytime departure, every day from mid-December to the end of January. Cabin fare starts at A$182 per person (twin-share).

Transport to the city: Tram 108 departs every 15 minutes from Station Pier to Collins Street, in the city centre.

Getting There By Road

VicRoads (tel: (03) 9854 2666; website: www.vicroads.vic.gov.au) has recently implemented a Statewide Route Numbering Program for its rural arterial roads. The letter assigned to each road reflects the quality and function of the route. There are four major road categories – M, A, B and C. ‘M’ roads are the primary roads connecting Melbourne and other capital cities, such as the Princes Freeway (M1) and Hume Freeway (M31). ‘A’ roads are similar to M roads, although carry less traffic. ‘B’ roads are two lane roads in good condition, often indicating a tourist destination, such as the Great Ocean Road (B100) and Alpine Road (B500). ‘C’ roads provide important links between population centres and the primary transport network. Major roads leading to Melbourne include the Princes Highway (M1) and the Western Ring Road (M80).

The legal driving age in Victoria is 18 years. Traffic drives on the left and seatbelts are compulsory for both drivers and passengers. Speed limits are 50kph (31mph) in urban areas – reduced from 60kph (37mph) in Jan 2001 – and 100-110kph (62-68mph) on country roads and highways. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Driving licences must be carried at all times – International Driving Permits are preferred to national licences. Compulsory third party insurance is required for driving in Melbourne.

VicRoads provides information of road safety and conditions (tel: 131 174) and requirements for driving in Victoria (tel: 131 171), as well as an emergency breakdown service (see below).

Emergency breakdown services:
Royal Automobile Club Victoria 131 111
VicRoads 131 170

Routes to the city: Melbourne has good road access to other main cities in Australia. The Western Highway (8) goes to Adelaide and the Hume Highway (31) and Princes Highway (1) to Sydney.

Approximate driving times to Melbourne: From Adelaide – 9 hours; Sydney – 11 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound Pioneer (tel: 132 030, Australia only; website: www.greyhound.com.au) operates extensive services throughout Australia, including Adelaide, Brisbane, Sydney and Darwin. The Melbourne terminal is located at the Melbourne Transit Centre, 58 Franklin Street, and is open 0600-2200 daily.

Getting There By Rail

V/Line (tel: 136 196, Australia only; website: www.victrip.com.au) operates Interstate Link services with connecting coach services, as well as an extensive train service throughout Victoria from Spencer Street Station, Spencer Street (tel: (03) 9655 3434; website: www.doi.vic.gov.au), in the city centre. The station is undergoing a major redevelopment, which is planned for completion in 2005, when the station will be renamed Southern Cross Station. Facilities at the station include a caf, restaurant and shops, ATM, trolley hire, left luggage, lost property, public toilets and changing rooms with showers. All trains are modern and comfortable with sleeper cars for longer journeys. Information on all national routes can be obtained from Countrylink (tel: 132 232, Australia only; website: www.countrylink.nsw.gov.au).

Rail services: The combined train and deluxe coach services offer routes to Adelaide (journey time – 10 hours 15 minutes), Canberra (journey time – 8 hours 15 minutes) and Narooma on the Sapphire Coast of New South Wales (journey time – 10 hours).

Transport to the city: Spencer Street Station is located in the heart of the city centre.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Melbourne’s public transport system is called The Met and it incorporates buses, trams and trains with interchangeable tickets available. The Met was privatised in August 1999 and each separate bus, tram and train company uses individual names, although fares are standard throughout the network.

The bus network is extensive and is operated by different private companies on varying routes, operating 0500-2400 Monday to Saturday; 0700-2300 Sunday. On weekends there is also a limited night bus service.

The City Circle Tram is a free tram service that runs in both directions around the city centre, 1000-1800 daily, with extended hours on weekends from the last Sunday in October to the Saturday before the last Sunday in March. Trams operate every ten minutes – the entire route takes 40 minutes and passes many of Melbourne’s attractions, with commentary provided. M> Tram (tel: (1800) 800 120; website: www.movingmelbourne.com) and Yarra Trams (tel: (1800) 800 166; website: www.yarratrams.com.au) both operate until approximately 0100.

The main train station in Melbourne for suburban routes is Flinders Street Station. Two rail companies covering suburban Melbourne are Connex (website: www.connexmelbourne.com.au) and M> Train (tel: (1800) 800 120; website: www.movingmelbourne.com). Services run approximately 0500-2400 Monday-Saturday and 0700-2400 on Sunday.

Metcard tickets allow travel on Melbourne’s buses, trains and trams, using a single ticket. These are available for purchase at retail outlets that show the Metcard flag, at station booking offices and from ticket vending machines on tram and rail stations. Ordinary tickets for short journeys (zone 1) cost A$2.60 and are valid for two hours – an all-day Metcard is better value for a number of journeys, costing A$5.10. Weekly passes cost A$22.10 and are ideal for a longer stay in Melbourne. Higher rates apply for zones 2 and 3.

VicTrip (tel: 131 638, Australia only; website: www.victrip.com.au) provides further information on all forms of transport within Melbourne.

Taxis
Taxis are available for hire on the street or are found waiting at train and bus stations. Operators include Arrow (tel: 132 211, Australia only) and Black Cabs (tel: 132 227, Australia only). Tipping is not expected. The initial charge is A$2.80 and rates increase at A$1.31 per kilometre and A$0.45 per minute waiting time.

Limousines
Lygon Limousines (tel: (03) 9773 2788) have chauffeur-driven cars for hire at A$65 per hour or stretch limousines at A$100 per hour. The chauffeurs can act as guides as well and can provide detailed information for their clients.

Driving in the City
Driving around Melbourne is fairly straightforward, as many roads are wide, with two or three lanes, although care has to be taken where there are tram routes. Special road rules exist – cars may only overtake trams on the left and must queue on the left in order to turn right at intersections marked by ‘Safety Zone’ signs, in order to accommodate the trams. The rush hours are 0700-0930 and 1700-1900, although there is also notorious ‘footy traffic’ near the Melbourne Cricket Ground, on weekends during the AFL season (April to September).

There are numerous car parks and parking meters all over the city. City Centre Car Park, 22 Little Collins Street (tel: (03) 9654 7818) is open daily 0730-2400. Cars parked illegally in no-parking zones are towed away. The City Centre Car Park charges A$4 per hour or A$22 per day on weekends.

Car Hire
The minimum age for car hire is 21 years and drivers must have possessed a national driving licence for at least one year. It is usually requested that the hire be paid for with the driver’s credit card. Young drivers aged 21-24 years are subject to a surcharge of A$27.50 per day. Compulsory third party insurance is required in Victoria and this is often included in the hire price.

Major car hire companies include Avis (tel: (03) 9663 6366; website: www.avis.au), Budget (tel: (03) 9241 6366; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz (tel: (03) 9338 4044; website: www.hertz.au). Daily hire rates start at around A$54 per day.

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles are available for hire from Hire A Bicycle, located at Yarra Bank by Princes Bridge (tel: 0412 616 633). Prices start at A$8.80 for one hour.

Business

Business Profile
Much of Australia’s economic activity is centred on Melbourne, as it is home to many of the nation’s largest corporations, including BHP Billiton, Coles Myer, Telstra, National Australia Bank and Shell Australia. The city also provides headquarters or the R&D base for international companies such as Cadbury-Schweppes, BP, NEC, Orica, Ericsson and Kraft. In the CBD, smart Collins Street is the prime business address.

Victoria has a workforce with one of the highest levels of education and technological literacy in the OECD. Melbourne’s excellent multilingual capabilities – over 30% of the population speak another language at home – also make it attractive to foreign companies. During 1999-2000, Victoria was the most profitable Australian location for local and international companies. Private business investment grew by 11.8% during 2001, over twice the national rate.

Victoria is home to 40% of Australia’s pharmaceutical industry, nearly 60% of the automotive industry and 50% of the aerospace sector. The Australian head office and manufacturing operations of Toyota and Ford are Melbourne-based and General Motors has begun construction of its new A$700 million state-of-the-art V6 engine plant in Melbourne, also the home of its Holden headquarters.

Australia is one of the leading users of information and communication technologies and most of the major international organisations operating in Australia have manufacturing or research activities in Melbourne, including IBM, Ericsson, Hewlett Packard, Nokia, Motorola, Philips, NEC, Fujitsu and Siemens. Asia-Pacific’s largest Internet service provider, Pacific Internet, also recently opened its Australian headquarters in Melbourne.

Australia’s dairy industry is centred on Victoria and the state produces 13% of the global trade in manufactured dairy products – a Victorian cheese, the Jindi brie from Gippsland, was named best cheese in the world at the prestigious 2002 Wisconsin World Cheesemakers Contest. Victoria provides 46% of Australia’s horticultural production and has strong meat, cereal-based food, confectionery and wine industries. Campbells, Heinz, Coca-Cola, Cadbury-Schweppes, Kraft and Nestl all manufacture and export food from Victoria.

Melbourne is also Australia’s research capital, hosting 38% of total research and development undertaken by businesses nationally. In particular, Melbourne is an acknowledged world leader in biomedical and health research, attracting GlaxoSmithKline, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Monsanto, Aventis and Nufarm to manufacture in Victoria.

In April 2001, unemployment in Melbourne was 6.3%, compared to a national rate of 6.8%.

Business Etiquette
Suits are a must when conducting business in well-dressed Melbourne and all appointments must be arranged in advance. Like much of Melbourne life, business is conducted over coffee. Breakfast meetings or drinks at a stylish bar are also favoured, although long business lunches are a thing of the past. Australian businesspeople are very approachable, quite informal and quick to use first names. Academic or professional titles do not impress them, nor do over-zealous sales presentations. Business cards are used.

Normal business hours are 0830-1700 Monday to Friday, although many executives work longer hours. If invited to someone’s home, a bottle of wine as a gift will almost always be appreciated.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Melbourne has a wealth of places to visit throughout the metropolitan area and is also an ideal city for visitors to stroll around, savouring the ambience and lifestyle. The central business district has a stunning skyline with some intriguing modern architecture. The latest example of this is the enormous and controversial new civic hub Federation Square, with its sandstone plaza, galleries and restaurants.

However, lovers of Australian colonial history will only have to walk through the city to discover many examples of Victorian buildings nestling among the skyscrapers or dotted throughout the suburbs. The intricate ironwork decorating the mansions and business houses testify to the wealth brought to the city during the gold rush. Many examples can be found along Collins Street – number 333, an imposing building that opened in 1891, is famous for its stunning domed ceiling and equally as extravagant interior, which reflects Melbourne’s golden heyday. The Block Arcade shopping centre, also on Collins Street, is a gracious Victorian building and the Old Royal Mint, on William Street, is also a particularly fine example. Close to Bourke Street Mall and Swanston Walk are eclectic narrow lanes and arcades with a mix of colourful bars, chic clubs, coffee houses and elegant arcades.

Melbourne’s parks and gardens reflect their British heritage. A perfect example is Fitzroy Gardens, laid out to represent the Union Jack. Close by, the delightful Treasury Gardens are home to the Old Treasury Building, while to the north is Parliament House, which is open to the public when parliament is not in session. Carlton Gardens is home to the new Melbourne Museum and the adjacent Royal Exhibition Building, built for the 1880 Great Exhibition and based on Crystal Palace in London. This is where Australia’s Parliament sat from 1901 until 1927. In 2001, a re-enactment on the site celebrated the centenary of federation. Kings Domain, south of Yarra River, is a pleasant park housing the Sidney Myer Music Bowl, Government House, the Old Melbourne Observatory and Latrobe’s Cottage. Further afield, the colonial mansions of Como House, in South Yarra, and Werribee Park, in Werribee, both have delightful formal gardens – the latter contains the Victoria State Rose Gardens.

Chinatown is located at the eastern end of Little Bourke Street and has been situated there since the start of the gold rush. The narrow lanes are packed with Chinese restaurants and supermarkets. The Chinese Museum, Cohen Place, is worth a visit to learn about the contribution the Chinese community has made to the growth of Melbourne.

Tourist Information
Melbourne Visitor Information Centre
Melbourne Town Hall, corner of Swanston Street Walk and Little Collins Street
Tel: (03) 9658 9658. Fax: (03) 9650 6168.
E-mail: tourism@melbourne.vic.gov.au
Website: www.melbourne.vic.gov.au
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun 0900-1700.

Other tourist information offices are located at Bourke Street Mall and Flinders Street Station.

Passes
The Melbourne Attractions Pass is a book of coupons for entry to up to six of 11 different attractions, including the Old Melbourne Goal, Melbourne Zoo, Melbourne Museum, Melbourne Cricket Ground, Melbourne Observation Deck and Scienceworks Museum. The pass costs A$54 and is available from Royal Automobile Club Victoria offices or from travel agents.

Key Attractions

Old Melbourne Gaol
The Old Melbourne Gaol was established in 1841 and expanded rapidly during the gold rush. The jail was the setting for 135 hangings, most famously for that of Ned Kelly in 1880. Exhibits include a collection of death masks and Kelly’s armour.

Russell Street
Tel: (03) 9663 7228. Fax: (03) 9639 0119.
E-mail: omg@nattrust.com.au
Website: www.nattrust.com.au
Transport: Museum Station; City Circle Tram to corner of Latrobe Street and Russell Street.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: A$15; concessions available.

Federation Square
Designed as an architectural icon in a city that loves modern architecture, Federation Square is a complete new city block, bringing together social, cultural and commercial activities. Highlights include NGV: Australian Art (the world’s largest collection of Australian art), Federation Pub (a three-level, space-age watering hole), the Australian Centre for the Moving Image and the Atrium. This A$424 million development is due to be completed in August 2002.

Flinders Street
Tel: (03) 9639 2800. Fax: (03) 9663 3652.
Website: www.federationsquare.com.au
Transport: Flinders Street Station.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Royal Botanic Gardens
Melbourne’s Royal Botanic Gardens contain extensively landscaped gardens covering 35 hectares (86 acres) and featuring thousands of plants from across Australia and around the world. Free guided walks or self-guided audio walks are available.

Birdwood Avenue
Tel: (03) 9252 2300. Fax: (03) 9252 2350.
Website: www.rbg.vic.gov.au
Transport: Numerous trams along St Kilda Road; Flinders Street Station.
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1730 (Apr-Oct); daily 0730-2030 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: Free.

Melbourne Observation Deck
Located on level 55 of the tallest office building in the southern hemisphere, the Melbourne Observation Deck offers 360-degree panoramic views of Melbourne and the surrounding areas. The facilities also include a licensed caf-bar. A 20-minute film about the city is included with admission.

525 Collins Street
Tel: (03) 9629 8222. Fax: (03) 9614 8231.
E-mail: ob.deck@rialto.com.au
Website: www.melbournedeck.com.au
Transport: Spencer Street Station; tram 11, 12 or 109.
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2200, Fri-Sat 1000-2300.
Admission: A$10.50; concessions available.

National Gallery of Victoria
Once extensive renovations have been completed in mid-2003, the NGV: St Kilda Road will house Victoria’s impressive international collections, including Picasso’s Weeping Woman, with the large Australian collection going to Federation Square.

180 St Kilda Road
Tel: (03) 9208 0203. Fax: (03) 9208 0245.
Website: www.ngv.vic.gov.au
Transport: Flinders Street Station; trams 7, 23, 24, 30, 34, 35.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free; fees for temporary exhibitions vary.

Melbourne Museum
Australia’s largest museum opened in October 2000 and boasts a living, breathing Forest Gallery, the giant Rubik’s cube of the Children’s Museum, the Bunjilaka Aboriginal Centre and displays featuring dinosaurs, the history of Melbourne and the beloved racehorse Phar Lap.

Carlton Gardens
Tel: (03) 8341 7777. Fax: (03) 8341 7778.
Website: http://melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au
Transport: Parliament Station; trams 86 or 96 or City Circle tram to Victoria Street.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: A$15; concessions available.

Melbourne Cricket Ground
Yarra Park is home to the world-famous Melbourne Cricket Ground, or MCG, the venue for many national and international cricket matches. The ground is open for guided tours and contains the Australian Cricket Hall of Fame, Olympic Museum and Australian Gallery of Sport.

Yarra Park, Jolimont
Tel: (03) 9657 8879. Fax: (03) 9654 1387.
Website: www.mcg.org.au
Transport: Jolimont train station.
Opening hours: Guided tours available 1000-1500 half-hourly, except on match days.
Admission: A$16; concessions available.

Melbourne Zoo
Melbourne Zoo is Australia’s oldest zoo and over recent years has enjoyed large-scale investment to improve facilities for both the resident animals and visitors. There is an African rainforest with gorillas, orangutans, hippos and big cats, as well as a particularly impressive butterfly house and a bushland exhibit, which is home to many of Australia’s native wildlife species.

Elliott Avenue, Parkville
Tel: (03) 9285 9300. Fax: (03) 9285 9350.
Website: www.zoo.org.au
Transport: Royal Park Station; tram 55 Mon-Sat or tram 68 Sun.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: A$15.30; concessions available.

Rippon Lea House Museum & Historic Garden
The last of Australia’s great privately owned 19th-century suburban estates, Rippon Lea House, built in 1863, has opulent interiors and superbly maintained grounds.

192 Hotham Street, Elsternwick
Tel: (03) 9523 6095. Fax: (03) 9523 6921.
Website: www.nattrust.com.au
Transport: Rippon Lea Station; tram 67.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: A$11; concessions available.

Further Distractions

Further Distractions
Heide Museum of Modern Art
The former home of John and Sunday Reed, patrons of the Melbourne art scene, was turned into the Museum of Modern Art, following their deaths. Their home now houses exhibitions of contemporary Australian art. The sculpture park, in the museum’s grounds, is particularly impressive.

7 Templestowe Road, Bulleen
Tel: (03) 9850 1500. Fax: (03) 9852 0154.
Website: www.heide.com.au
Transport: Heidelberg Station then bus 291.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat-Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: A$6.60; concessions available.

William Ricketts Sanctuary
Located in a mountain ash forest in the Dandenong Ranges, tranquil William Ricketts Sanctuary is the location where the sculptor, William Ricketts, positioned his mystical kiln-fired clay sculptures of Aboriginal figures among the rocks and ferns.

Dandenong Ranges
Tel: (03) 9751 1300. Fax: (03) 9751 2118.
Website: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au
Transport: By car along the Mount Dandenong Tourist Road.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1630.
Admission: A$5.20; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A service offered by the City of Melbourne, the Melbourne Greeter Service (tel: (03) 9658 9658; e-mail: greeter@melbourne.vic.gov.au), provides guided tours of the city’s main sights, taking between two and four hours, by local volunteers. These free tours are offered in a number of languages and depart from the Melbourne Visitor Information Centre, Melbourne Town Hall, corner of Swanston Street and Little Collins Street.

Heritage Walking Tours are self-guided tours detailed in a series of maps, which are available from the Melbourne Visitor Information Centre and tourist information booths throughout the city.

Bus Tours
AAT King’s (tel: (03) 9663 3377), Gray Line (tel: (03) 9663 4455) and Australian Pacific Tours (tel: (03) 9663 1611) operate daily tours of the city’s highlights and offer free hotel pick-ups. The cost of a three-hour tour is A$50.

A double-decker hop-on hop-off City Explorer Bus (tel: (03) 9650 7000) departs hourly from 0930 outside the Town Hall and offers over 18 stop-off points and commentary. A ticket valid for one day is A$30.

Boat Tours
A relaxing way for visitors to see the city is to take a cruise along the Yarra River. Melbourne River Cruises (tel: (03) 9614 1215) depart every half and hour, daily from Princes Walk. There are three different tours, each taking one hour and costing A$16.50. Tickets are available at the Blue Melbourne River Cruises Kiosk on Princes Bridge, opposite Flinders Street Station.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Phillip Island: A 90-minute drive south from Melbourne, Phillip Island (tel: (03) 5956 7447; website: www.phillipisland.net.au) features a nature park and numerous attractions. Highlights include The Penguin Parade (tel: (03) 5956 8300; website: www.penguins.org.au), which takes place nightly at sunset, when the world’s smallest penguins emerge from the sea and waddle up the beach to their burrows for the night. The Koala Conservation Centre (tel: (03) 5956 8691) and Seal Rocks Sea Life Centre (tel: (03) 9793 6767), home to the largest fur seal colony in Australia, are open daily (1000-dusk). A three-park pass, costing A$22.40, covers the penguins, koalas and Churchill Island, with its historic homestead. Individually, the penguins cost A$14, the koalas A$5.60 and Churchill Island A$7.70. Admission to see the seals is A$11. Phillip Island is accessible by car on the Princes Highway (M1) southeast from Melbourne, then on the South Gippsland Highway (M420) and finally the A420 to San Remo and across the Phillip Island Bridge.

For a Full Day

Dandenong Ranges and Healesville Sanctuary: The hills of the Dandenong Ranges, east of Melbourne, are covered in vineyards, banks of flowers and distinctly Australian gum trees. The Dandenongs can be reached in an hour from Melbourne by car or by taking a train to Belgrave Station at the end of the Melbourne metropolitan line and then by Puffing Billy Steam Railway (tel: (03) 9754 6800) through forests and fern gullies to Emerald Lake Park. The return trip takes two hours and costs A$26 or A$36.50 depending on the distance travelled.

A car is needed to visit Healesville Sanctuary (tel: (03) 5957 2800; website: www.zoo.org.au), where rescued and orphaned animals can be seen in their own habitat. The sanctuary is open daily 0900-1700 and entrance costs A$15.30. The Moet & Chandon winery at nearby Domaine Chandon (tel: (03) 9739 1110) offers daily guided tours (1100, 1300 and 1500) showcasing the traditional ‘methode Champenoise’ and offering the opportunity to taste some of the wines.

Great Ocean Road: The Great Ocean Road is a spectacular drive along the coast to Adelaide, starting 72km (45 miles) to the west of Melbourne at Geelong. For much of the route, the road hugs the rugged coastline overlooking some excellent surfing beaches and passing through Otway and Port Campbell national parks to the spectacular rock formations known as the Twelve Apostles.

Sovereign Hill: This open-air museum tells the story of life in Ballarat during the gold rush. The streets of Sovereign Hill (tel: (03) 5331 1944; website: www.sovereignhill.com.au) bustle with people dressed in period costume going about their business in the shops, hotels and school. Visitors can still pan for real gold. The museum is located 110km (68 miles) from Melbourne and is open daily 1000-1700. Entrance costs A$25. It can be reached from Ballarat Station.

Sport

Australians are sports mad, both as spectators and participants. Melbourne’s temperate climate means that it is possible to enjoy outdoor sports for most of the year and the city hosts a number of major sporting events covering all seasons. In January, World Series cricket takes place at Melbourne Cricket Ground, Yarra Park, Jolimont (tel: (03) 9657 8879; website: www.mcg.org.au). Victoria’s cricket team in domestic matches is the Bushrangers (website: www.bushrangers.com.au), whose last notable success was defeating New South Wales to take the Mercantile Mutual Cup in 1998/99.

Also in January, the Australian Tennis Open is held at Melbourne Park Tennis Club, now called Australia Open Tennis, corner of Batman Avenue and Swan Street (tel: (03) 9286 1175). The Australian Formula One Grand Prix is now held in Melbourne each March, at Albert Park, Albert Road, South Melbourne. The Australian Grand Prix Corporation (tel: (03) 9258 7100) provides further information.

The Australian Football League (tel: (1800) 266 000; website: www.afl.com.au) season runs until September, when the ‘Aussie Rules’ Grand Final is held at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (tel: (03) 9657 8879; website: www.mcg.org.au). Melbourne is the spiritual home of Australian Rules Football, with nine of the national league’s 16 teams based here, among them Essendon (website: www.essendonfc.com.au), which made it to the Grand Final in 2001 but were beaten by Brisbane.

Rugby is also popular, with local team Melbourne Storm (website: www.melbournestorm.com.au) winning the Rugby League (NRL) Grand Final in 1999.

The final event of the year is the most important in the sporting calendar and is a public holiday in Victoria – the Melbourne Cup at Flemington Race Course, 400 Epsom Road, Flemington (tel: (03) 9258 4666). The highlight of the Spring Racing Festival, this event takes place in October and November each year.

Tickets for most major sporting events in Melbourne can be purchased from Ticketmaster7 (tel: 136 166, Australia only; website: www.ticketmaster7.com) or Ticketek (tel: 132 849, Australia only; website: www.ticketek.com).

Fitness centres: These include St Kilda Sports & Fitness Centre, 97 Alma Road, St Kilda (tel: (03) 9510 9409), Collingwood Leisure Centre, Turnball Street, Clifton Hill (tel: (03) 9205 5522), and Waves Leisure Centre, 111 Chesterville Road, Highett (tel: (03) 9553 1038).

Golf: Golf courses that are open to the public include Albert Park Golf Course, Queens Road (tel: (03) 9510 5588), Brighton Golf Course, Dendy Street, Brighton (tel: (03) 9592 1388), and Yarra Bend Golf Course, Yarra Bend Road, Fairfield (tel: (03) 9481 3729). Fees for an 18-hole game start at A$21.

Swimming pools: Melbourne City Baths, 420 Swanston Street (tel: (03) 9663 5888), is open daily. Facilities include a sauna and spa. Melbourne Sports & Aquatics Centre, Aughtie Drive (tel: (03) 9926 1555), has a pool and wave pool together with a gym.

Tennis: Tennis is a great favourite with residents of Melbourne and there are many tennis courts located throughout the city, although many are open to members only. It is possible to book a court at the famous Melbourne Park Tennis Club (tel: (03) 9286 1244), home to the Australian Open.

Shopping

Residents of Melbourne take their shopping seriously and this is reflected in the number of shopping arcades and markets that are dotted throughout the city. Some of the arcades are architectural masterpieces in their own right. Melbourne Central, Lonsdale Street, has a magnificent glass cone covering the famous Shot Tower, the only feature remaining from the Lead Pipe & Shot Factory. There are over 200 shops, including many Australian designer outlets and the Daimaru international department store. The Block Arcade, Collins Street, Melbourne’s main shopping street, is a grand Victorian building. This is reflected in the shops that sell elegant leatherwear, glassware and couture. Nearby is the Royal Arcade, which features antique and gift shops. Linked by a footbridge to Melbourne Central, Myer is a city institution established over 80 years ago and the biggest single department store in Australia. Next door is David Jones, a department store noted for its tempting food hall. Many of the department stores stock typically Australian products and the best goods to look out for are woollen garments, bush gear, handcrafted jewellery (particularly opals), woodwork design and ceramics.

The exclusive shops along Toorak Road offer the latest designer labels, while young, independent designers have outlets on Chapel Street. Crown Entertainment Complex houses designer boutiques including Armani, Versace and Tiffany & Co. Shoppers with more bohemian tastes will find Brunswick Street in Fitzroy a veritable Aladdin’s cave of clothing shops and gift and book stores. The cake shops of St Kilda, a traditional German Jewish area, are marvels to behold. The bayside suburb also features bookshops and trendy cafs.

Melbourne has a number of markets located throughout the city, although the most outstanding is the Queen Victoria Market, on Victoria Street. This market was traditionally a place to buy foodstuffs but it is now possible to buy almost anything in the various halls and quaint shops. The market is open Tuesday and Thursday 0600-1400, Friday 0600-1800, Saturday 0600-1500 and Sunday 0900-1600.

Standard opening hours are 0900-1700 Monday to Saturday with late-night opening on Fridays and, in many cases, Thursdays until 2100. Many major department stores and shopping centres are also open on Sundays and a few supermarkets are now open 24 hours a day. On 1 July 2000, Australia’s 10% Goods and Services Tax came into force, with a resulting overnight increase in prices – price tags almost always include the GST. There are several duty-free shops in the city centre, as well as at the airport. To obtain a refund, shoppers must show their passport and onward ticket upon collection of goods.

Culture

Its relatively cool climate and European heritage have shaped Melbourne as Australia’s city of civilised indoor pursuits. There are many top-class performances throughout the year at the Victorian Arts Centre, 100 St Kilda Road (tel: (03) 9281 8000; website: www.vicartscentre.com.au), which is home to Opera Australia, the Melbourne Theatre Company, the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra and the Australian Ballet. The Sidney Myer Music Bowl, 21 Linlithgow Avenue (tel: (03) 9281 8000), hosts open-air performances all year round, especially during the many arts festivals held in the city.

Friday’s Age newspaper contains the cultural listings supplement EG. Information also is available online (website: http://melbourne.citysearch.com.au).

Cheap tickets for most venues throughout Melbourne can be booked through the Halftix booth, Melbourne Town Hall (tel: (03) 9650 9420), although only on the day of the performance. Advance tickets can be bought through Ticketek (tel: 132 849, Australia only; website: www.ticketek.com).

Music: Opera Australia (tel: (03) 9685 3777; website: www.opera-australia.org.au) regularly appears at the Melbourne Concert Hall, located in the Victorian Arts Complex (see above), as does the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra (tel: (03) 9626 1111; website: www.mso.com.au).

Theatre: Melbourne has a large number of theatres located throughout the city centre and in the suburbs. The Regent Theatre, Collins Street (tel: (03) 9299 9500), hosts elaborate musical productions, while theatres such as the Athenaeum, Collins Street (tel: (03) 9650 1500) and the Princess, Spring Street (tel: (03) 9299 9800), produce Shakespeare, contemporary plays and musicals. The Melbourne Theatre Company, Ferrars Street, Southbank (tel: (03) 9684 4500; website: www.mtc.com.au) is the oldest professional theatre company in Australia. Playbox Theatre Centre, Monash University (tel: (03) 9685 5100; website: www.playbox.com.au), generates new dramatic works promoting Australia’s cultural diversity.

Dance: Dancehouse, 150 Princes Street, North Carlton (tel: (03) 9347 2860; website: www.dancehouse.com.au), is an exciting venue for innovative dance and physical theatre and has a well-deserved reputation in the contemporary dance field.

Film: Reflecting its European self-image, Melbourne has many independent arthouse cinemas, including the Cinema Como, at the corner of Toorak Road and Chapel Street, South Yarra (tel: (03) 9827 7533), Cinema Nova, 380 Lygon Street, Carlton (tel: (03) 9347 5331), the Lumire, 108 Lonsdale Street (tel: (03) 9639 1055) and the Kino, 45 Collins Street (tel: (03) 9650 2100). The splendid art deco Astor Theatre, at the corner of Chapel Street and Dandenong Road (tel: (03) 9510 1414), hosts the St Kilda Film Festival for experimental film every April. The local IMAX Theatre is located on Rathdowne Street, Carlton (tel: (03) 9663 5454). Mainstream fare is screened at the Hoyts Cinema Centre, 140 Bourke Street (tel: (03) 9663 3303), and at Hoyts multiplexes throughout suburban Melbourne.

The Story of the Kelly Gang (1906), reputed to be the world’s first ever feature-length film, was made in and around Melbourne. Other Australian movie classics set or filmed in Melbourne include Picnic at Hanging Rock (1975) and Phar Lap (1983). Death in Brunswick (1991) and Romper Stomper (1992) both achieved international acclaim. Recent broad comedies The Castle (1997) and The Wog Boy (2000) were huge hits in Australia. Reflecting the recent trend of Hollywood production moving to Australia, The Queen of the Damned (2002) was shot in Melbourne.

Cultural events: The importance of the arts scene in Melbourne is highlighted by the support received by the Melbourne International Festival of the Arts (tel: (03) 9662 4242; website: www.melbournefestival.com.au), held every October. Artists, writers, musicians, actors and dancers from dozens of countries around the world descend on the theatres and galleries of Melbourne, for a 17-day cultural feast. It also boasts a Fringe Festival, which is smaller and definitely more off-beat and kicks off with a parade and huge party in Brunswick Street.

Three days in March are given over to the Melbourne Moomba Festival (tel: (03) 9658 8566; website: www.melbournemoombafestival.com.au), which is Australia’s largest outdoor festival. There are open-air performances, night-time parades, firework displays and even water-skiing competitions. The three-week Melbourne International Comedy Festival (tel: (03) 9417 7711; website: www.comedyfestival.com.au) is Australia’s top comedy event, attracting many local and international acts every April.

Come July, the cream of the Australian and international film world are drawn to the city for the Melbourne International Film Festival (tel: (03) 9417 2011; website: www.melbournefilmfestival.com.au), which has been running since 1951.

Literary Notes
Melbourne has enjoyed its share of internationally acclaimed writers. C J Dennis, who lived in the small town of Toolangi, north of Melbourne, rose to national fame as Victoria’s most popular writer with his urban romance in verse, The Songs of a Sentimental Bloke (1915). The works of Victorian writers of this period, including Dennis, reflected upon the impact of the gold rush and the business of making money. Painter and writer Norman Lindsay, who hailed from the small town of Creswick (near Ballarat), is the author of the irreverent Australian children’s classic, The Magic Pudding (1917).

One of the most sensational novels to come out of Melbourne is Frank Hardy’s Power Without Glory (1950). Loosely based on the affairs and dealings of notorious Melbourne businessman John Wren, the book scandalised Melbourne society and Hardy was prosecuted for criminal libel. British author Neville Shute’s novel On The Beach (1957), another literary cause clbre, depicts Melbourne as the last outpost of a world wracked by nuclear devastation.

Melbourne playwright Ray Lawler’s Summer of the Seventeenth Doll (1957) pioneered dramatic realism in Australia, while criticising cultural stereotypes. Classic modern novels include Picnic at Hanging Rock (1967) by Joan Lindsay, and George Johnston’s My Brother Jack (1964), perhaps the definitive novel of Melbourne between the wars. Peter Carey set one of his best works, Illywhacker (1985), in the city, and his Booker Prize-winning The True History of the Kelly Gang (2001) also features Melbourne as a setting. Helen Garner, whose novels, such as Monkey Grip (1977), are mostly set in Melbourne, has also attracted a wide following.

The ‘grunge lit’ of the 1990s produced writers such as Christos Tsiolkas, whose Loaded (1995) portrays the town as a netherworld of drugs and sex. Criminal Mark ‘Chopper’ Read wrote From The Inside (1991) in the H Division of Melbourne’s Pentridge Prison. While snubbed by the literary establishment, Read’s lively underworld confessions are among the most popular contemporary writing in Australia.

Nightlife

Melbourne is Australia’s bar capital and hub of live music. With the addition of a buzzing clubland, the city covers all styles and caters to all tastes. The central business district not only serves its after-work drinkers but also attracts a young, trendy crowd of inner-city professionals. Many of Melbourne’s smarter bars are tucked away in the city’s many narrow lanes. Across the Yarra River, Southgate provides the arts precinct with a strip of bars with riverside views.

Many Melbourne venues function variously as bars, clubs and live-music rooms, depending on the night and the hour. The varied nature of the bars and clubs means that the dress code also varies enormously – generally the trendier the place, the stricter the dress code. The snooty trend of vetting customers according to style is unfortunately becoming apparent in parts of cosmopolitan Melbourne. Entrance to clubs is free but a fee is often introduced after 2100 at weekends. Gay Melbourne has its base in the inner suburb of South Yarra, with numerous pubs, clubs and discos clustered around Commercial Road. Other inner-city districts, such as Fitzroy and St Kilda, by Port Philip Bay, feature further options for a city that loves to be out after dark. Very relaxed licensing hours mean that it is possible to drink through the night. The minimum drinking age is 18 years. The average price for a beer served in a bar is A$5, while in a nightclub it is more likely to be around A$6.

Free listings magazines include Inpress and Beat. Friday’s Age newspaper contains the entertainment listings supplement EG. Information is available online (website: www.streetsofmelbourne.com.au and http://melbourne.citysearch.com.au).

Bars: Centrally located cocktail bars include the popular Gin Palace, 190 Little Collins Street, and the very smart Hairy Canary, 212 Little Collins Street. The sumptuous Chesterfield lounges of the Melbourne Supper Club, 161 Spring Street, are also a great place to enjoy cocktails and an impressive array of wines, as is the renowned Jimmy Watsons Wine Bar, 333 Lygon Street, in Carlton, Melbourne’s ‘Little Italy’. Hidden away in the CBD lanes, the city’s bright young things can be found in Honkytonk, Duckboard Place, and Misty Place, 3-5 Hosier Lane, both of which feature arty interiors and transform into clubs later at night. One of the most popular bars in Southgate is Walters Wine Bar, Upper Level, Southgate, noted for its fabulous wines, good food and great views. The inner-city neighbourhood of Prahran has a string of inviting bars, ranging from the lively Blue Bar, 330 Chapel Street, to the cosy La La Land, 134 Chapel Street.

Casinos: Crown Casino, in the Crown Entertainment Complex, Southgate, is open 24 hours a day and offers blackjack, craps, roulette, baccarat and poker machines. Dress is smart-casual, although a jacket and tie is required for some areas. Players must be 18 years and over – a driver’s licence, birth certificate or passport are all acceptable as proof of age.

Clubs: Within Melbourne’s CBD, Tatou, 377 Little Collins Street, is a bar/restaurant that becomes a nightclub playing progressive hard house, every Saturday, while Metro, 20-30 Bourke Street, is a large venue that offers a wide variety of musical styles on different nights. The funk, jazz and dub beats of The Laundry, 50 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, attract a regular crowd. Rotating guest DJs attract the party set to Room 680, 680 Glenferrie Road, in inner-eastern Hawthorn. The entertainment at Revolver, 229 Chapel Street, Prahran, ranges from breakbeat and drum’n’bass to soul and funk, featuring top DJs as well as live acts every night. Many of the biggest international touring DJs play house, funk and R&B at QBH, 1 Queensbridge Street, South Melbourne. The white cocoon shape of the Glow Bar, 422 Queen Street, attracts a groovy young crowd for soul and Chicago house, as well as film and performance nights during the week.

Live music: On the city’s north side, alternative bands, including interstate and international acts, can be seen at The Tote, 71 Johnston Street, Collingwood, while heavier punk-style acts often perform at The Arthouse, 616 Elizabeth Street. The Corner Hotel, 57 Swan Street, Richmond, is another large band venue that books acts of all kinds. In St Kilda, the legendary ‘Espy’, The Esplanade Hotel, 11 Upper Esplanade, is probably Australia’s most famous alternative and rock music venue, featuring a big line-up of bands every night, as well as regular comedy shows. Nearby, the Prince Bandroom, 29 Fitzroy Street, hosts the cream of local, interstate and international acts, as well as club nights. In the CBD, The 9th Ward, 298 Flinders Lane, features a wide variety of bands and DJs, while Bennetts Lane Jazz Club, 25 Bennetts Lane, is Melbourne’s prime spot for jazz artists, both Australian and international.

City Statistics

Location: Victoria, Australia.
Country dialling code: 61.
Population: 3,521,957 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 81% white Australian, 15.5% European (including UK), 1% New Zealander, 0.9% Asian, 0.9% African, 0.7% American.
Religion: 26% Roman Catholic, 24% Protestant, 50% other religions, comprising small minorities of all other major religions.
Time zone: GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from last Sunday in October to Saturday before last Sunday in March).
Electricity: 240/250 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 26C (79F).
Average July temp: 15C (59F).
Annual rainfall: 653mm (25.4 inches).

Special Events

Australian Open, annual international tennis tournament, 13-26 Jan 2003, Melbourne Park Tennis Club
Midsumma Festival, gay and lesbian festival featuring parades, dance parties and performances, 17 Jan-9 Feb, various venues
Australian Grand Prix, 27 Feb-2 Mar, Albert Park
Chinese New Year Festival, major celebrations held over two days, Feb, Chinatown
Melbourne Moomba Festival, Australia’s largest outdoor festival, featuring performances and events, 8-10 Mar, throughout the city
Melbourne International Comedy Festival, 27 Mar-20 Apr, various venues
Antipodes Festival, festival celebrating the cultural heritage of Melbourne’s Greek community, centred on the National Day of Greece, Mar, various venues
Melbourne International Film Festival, Jul-Aug, various venues
Royal Melbourne Show, annual country show with agricultural and farming displays, late Sep, Royal Melbourne Showgrounds, Epsom Road, Ascot Vale
Melbourne International Festival of the Arts, 17-day arts festival featuring music, theatre, opera and dance), mid-Oct-early Nov, various venues
Fringe Festival, smaller arts festival commencing with a parade and street party, mid-Oct-early Nov, Brunswick Street and various other venues
Spring Racing Carnival, six weeks of racing, street festivals and exhibitions and the world-famous Melbourne Cup, 5 Nov, Oct-Nov, Flemington Race Course

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: A$1.80
33cl bottle of beer: A$2.00
Financial Times newspaper: A$8.50
36-exposure colour film: A$5.95
City-centre bus ticket: A$2.60
Adult football ticket: A$17.10
Three-course meal with wine/beer: A$55

1 Australian Dollar (A$1) = 0.41; US$0.77; C$0.97; 0.60
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005