World City Guide

Excursions

For a Half Day

Xochimilco: About 20km (12 miles) south of the Zcalo is a network of canals lined by gardens and agricultural plots known as the ‘floating gardens’ of Xochimilco (the name means ‘Place where the Flowers Grow’ in the Aztec language of Nahuatl). Within the network of canals, the Pre-Hispanic inhabitants constructed little islands known as chinampas on which fruits, vegetables and flowers could be grown. These formed one of the economic bases of the Aztec Empire.

Some 180km (112 miles) of canals remain today and the area has become a favourite destination for Mexico City’s inhabitants to come for a bit of fun and relaxation. Hundreds of colourful trajineras (small, flat-bottomed barges similar to gondolas) are punted along the canals with parties of revellers on board. As well as the passenger boats, there are waterborne bands of mariachis or marimbas ready to play requests (for a price), vendors selling tacos, soft drinks and flowers, photographers and souvenir sellers adding to the general cacophony.

It must be noted however that it only comes alive on Sundays and holidays and the rest of the week can be a disappointment, as it appears quiet, drab place with only the odd boatload of bemused tourists taking to the water.

The Tourist Office in Xochimilco is situated at Embarcadero Nativitas (tel: (55) 5676 0810; website: www.xochimilco.df.gob.mx/) and can provide more information. Transport is by buses marked Metro ‘Tasquea’, or by taking the metro to Tasquea and then the tren ligero (overground train) to Embarcadero.

The Museo Dolores Olmedo Patino (Dolores Olmedo Patino Museum) is a renovated 16th-century hacienda, set in 3 hectares (8 acres) of beautiful grounds, complete with parading peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles, a rare breed of hairless dog indigenous to Mexico. The museum contains some of the best-known works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, as well as pre-Hispanic artefacts. The collection, which belongs to Seora Olmedo, a rich socialite and prolific patron of Rivera’s who still lives in part of the mansion, went on public display in 1994. The museum, open Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800, is located at Avenida Mxico 5843, on the corner of Antiguo Camino a Xochimilco (tel: (55) 5555 1016).

For a Whole Day

Teotihuacn: Situated 50km (30 miles) north of Mexico City is the archaeological zone of Teotihuacn. This site is thought to date from around 300-600 BC but the identity of those who built the ‘place of the gods’ still remains a mystery. Teotihuacn was not just a ceremonial centre – there is evidence it was a functioning city and one of the largest of the pre-industrial world. It was also one of the more politically dominant cities, owing to its strategic location in the Valley of Mexico, which provided easy access to trade routes and communication. In the seventh century AD, a fire and subsequent looting caused a great exodus of its inhabitants and Teotihuacn was left abandoned.

There are three main site areas: the Ciudadela (Citadel), Pirmide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun), Pirmide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon) – all connected by the Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead). It takes between five and eight hours to see the site properly and it is open daily 0800-1700. There is and admission charge except on Sundays. Buses marked ‘Los Pirmides’ depart from Gate 8 of the Terminal del Norte and take about an hour. The bus-tour operators listed in the Tours of the City section also offer organised excursions to the site, some including a stop at the Villa de Guadalupe en route.

Tula: To reach further back into Mexican history visit the remains of the Toltec city of Tula, just and hour and a half bus ride from the Terminal del Norte (Autobuses del Valle de Mezquital), then a cab from Tula de Allende, the modern town will take you to the entrance. The most famous image of Tula is of the giant basalt figures standing on top of the Templo Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli or the Temple of the Morning Star. Known as the Atlantes they represent Quetzalcoatl as the morning star dressed as a Toltec warrior.