World City Guide

Mini Guide of Los Angeles

City Overview

Los Angeles, America’s second largest city after New York, sprawls along the Pacific coast of southern California. Its coastline actually stretches 122km (76 miles) from Malibu to Long Beach, while inland the city spreads out to fill a vast, flat and once arid basin ringed by the Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains.

Arriving by plane gives a good first impression of the city. From out of this vast flat grid of streets and buildings, there rises a cluster of imposing skyscrapers to mark Downtown – 26km (16 miles) inland from the coast. To the northeast is Pasadena; to the west and northwest are Hollywood, Beverly Hills and Century City, as well as the wide San Fernando Valley; to the south is Long Beach and along the west coast are Santa Monica, Venice Beach and Marina del Rey.

Founded in 1781 by Mexican settlers, the city was given the cumbersome name of El Pueblo de Nuestra Seora la Reina de Los Angeles de Porciuncula (the Town of Our Lady Queen of the Angels of Porciuncula). Since then, it has been called everything from La La Land to Tinseltown but is most commonly known simply as LA. However, Los Angeles itself is actually just the largest of 88 different incorporated cities that make up the greater metropolitan area that we think of as Los Angeles.

Over the decades, the city grew from a cowtown to a Gold Rush boomtown to an oil town – and oil pumps can still be seen, bobbing up and down like mechanical donkeys. By the end of the 19th century, settlers were heading west in larger numbers, lured by the same thing that still attracts newcomers today: the mild climate, the sea and the almost continuous sunshine. On average, LA enjoys 292 sunny days each year, cooled by gentle ocean breezes and little rain. And the sunsets can be truly fabulous.

But the turning point in the city’s fame came in the 1920s, when the fledgling film industry realised that it was sunshine that was missing from their film-making in New York City – and so it decamped to the West. And Hollywood, then a simple district, became famous. Today, with major studios located here, such as Paramount, Universal, Fox and Warner Brothers, it is labelled the ‘Entertainment Capital of the World’.

However, there is more to LA than Hollywood. Disneyland, America’s famous fun park, which has just celebrated its 50th anniversary, is the area’s most popular site and well worth a visit. The city is also home to many world-renowned cultural institutions, such as the Museum of Contemporary Art, the LA Philharmonic (now based in the striking Walt Disney Concert Hall) and the Getty Museum. Visitors do come to see the huge Hollywood sign in Griffith Park and the mansions of the stars in Beverly Hills, but also to experience the nightlife on Sunset Strip, the beach life, the car culture and just to look at the people. LA is exuberant – there are few places in the world where the phrase ‘Express Yourself’ is taken so literally. From hippy health fanatics to muscled fitness freaks, from Art Deco lovers to devotees of off-beat religions – they all exist alongside the glamorous and the wealthy. From classic cars to silicone, LA represents people’s dreams – and thousands come seeking fame and fortune or just a new life. Los Angeles is the country’s gateway for immigrants from Asia, the Pacific Rim, Eastern Europe, Mexico and Latin America. People from 160 countries, speaking 96 different languages, make up Los Angeles.

But the population is fairly ghettoised. Afro-Americans live primarily in black suburbs, such as South Central LA and the Crenshaw District, which are poor and rundown and have high crime rates. Visitors are unlikely to go to these areas though and it can feel as though the black population (like the gangster rap that started here) barely touches on the rest of the city. But then much of Los Angeles lives in a bubble anyway. One where it is always sunny and nothing (be it smog, the occasional earthquake or a limited water supply for a growing population) will stop the Angelenos’ determination to work hard and live a rich life.

Getting There By Air

Note that all airports are non-smoking facilities. Though confirmation is not mandatory, it is always a good idea to check flight departure times before leaving for the airport.

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)
Tel: (310) 646 5252.
Website: www.lawa.org

Located on Santa Monica Bay, 24km (15 miles) from the city centre, LAX is the world’s fifth-busiest airport in the world, handling almost 55 million passengers in 2003. It is particularly important as the US gateway to the Pacific.

Major airlines: Los Angeles is served by 78 major airlines. United Airlines (tel: (800) 241 6522; website: www.united.com) and American Airlines (tel: (800) 433 730; website: http://aa.com) connects Los Angeles to all the major US cities, including daily flights to New York and Chicago. Other major US carriers include Continental, Delta, JetBlue, Northwest, Southwest Airlines Ted and US Airways. British Airways and Virgin Atlantic operate daily flights to London, as does Lufthansa to Munich. Other international airlines with regular services include Air Canada, Air France, Air New Zealand, Japan Airlines, KLM, Korean Airlines, Qantas and Singapore. Smaller airlines such as AirTran, Alaska, and Hawaiian Air Lines also depart from LAX.

Airport facilities: Facilities include foreign exchange and banking services, ATMs, baggage storage, medical and first aid, language assistance and a variety of shops and restaurants. Visitor information booths are located outside the main arrivals building, where staff can advise visitors as to the best route to their destination within the city. Car hire is available from all the major operators, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty, as well as many local operators.

Business facilities: Business services, including notary, fax, photocopying and moneygrams, are available at the ICE Currency Exchange Booth. Travel Right Cafe in Terminal 4 Departure Level and Neptune Networks kiosks provide Internet access and public telephone throughout the airport offer Internet data port access. Centres are located in Terminals 3, 7, 8 and the Tom Bradley International Terminal.

Transport to the city: Taxis can be found at the lower level. Passengers are presented with a ticket stating typical fares to major destinations. The taxi fare from the airport to Downtown Los Angeles is approximately US$38. Several private shuttle services will drop airport passengers at the door of their hotel or other destinations. These include Super Shuttle (tel: (310) 782 6600, 323 775 6600, (562) 498 6670, (213) 688 0444 or (800) 258 3826; website: www.supershuttle.com), Xpress Shuttle (tel: (310) 323 7222 or (800) 427 7483; website: www.xpressshuttle.com) and Prime Time Shuttle (tel: (800) 733 8267 or (310) 342 7200; website: www.primetimeshuttle.com). Charges are reasonable, starting from US$13-22, depending on the destination.

A free shuttle bus runs between terminals and from the airport to Parking Lot C, where passengers can connect with MTA (tel: (800) COMMUTE/266 6883; website: www.mta.net) buses, which run to most places in the city. There is also a free shuttle to Aviation Station on the MTA Metro Green Line. Pick-up is on the lower arrival level under the LAX Shuttle sign. Bus and rail fares into the city are US$1.25.

Ontario International Airport (ONT)
Tel: (909) 937 2700.
Website: www.lawa.org

Located 56km (35 miles) east of Downtown Los Angeles, Ontario International is the city’s newest airport (opened 1998) and served over 6.5 million passengers in 2003. It handles international and domestic flights and is the closest airport for the heavily settled Orange County.

Major airlines: Among the 13 major airlines serving Ontario Airport are Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, America West, Continental Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Northwest Airlines, Southwest Airlines, TWA, United/Ted and United Express.

Airport facilities: Facilities include information kiosks, ATMs, foreign exchange, and a variety of shops and restaurants. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: The business centres have fax service, telephones, Internet ports, mail box/postage vending machines, travel insurance services, money wires and notary public. They are located in the upper level of both terminals.

Transport to the city: Taxis and several shuttle bus services (see above under LAX) provide transportation throughout the region.

Bob Hope Airport (Burbank-Glendale-Pasadena Airport) (BUR)
Tel: (818) 840 8840.
Website: www.burbankairport.com

Bob Hope Airport is served by six domestic airlines only, serving some 5 million passengers annually. It is the closest airport to Downtown LA (20km/13 miles away), Hollywood and the Valley.

Major airlines: Alaska Airlines, Aloha Airlines, American Airlines, America West, Southwest Airlines and United Airlines all provide regular services to Burbank Airport.

Airport facilities: Facilities include shops and restaurants, ATMs and tourist information. Car hire is provided by Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz and National.

Business facilities: None.

Transport to the city: Metrolink (Monday to Friday only), MTA Bus lines and Amtrak (see Rail) have nearby stations at Burbank and there are free connecting shuttles to/from the airport. The airport is also connected by many MTA bus lines. Taxis are readily available.

John Wayne Airport (Santa Ana, Orange County)
Tel: (949) 252 5200.
Website: www.ocair.com

Located approximately 67km (42 miles) south of downtown Los Angeles, John Wayne Airport served 8.5 million travellers in 2003. Eleven domestic airlines use this passenger-friendly airport.

Major airlines: Aloha, Alaska, American, America West, America West Express (Mesa), Continental, Delta, Frontier, Midwest, Northwest, Southwest and United provide regular service.

Airport facilities: Facilities include shops and restaurants, ATMs and tourist information. On-site car hire is provided by Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Business facilities: None.

Transport to the city: Taxis, limousine and shuttles (see LAX) provide service to the city.

Approximate flight times to Los Angeles: From London is 10 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 5 hours 20 minutes; from Chicago is approximately 4 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 14 hours on non-stop flights.

Arrival/departure tax: All arrival/departure taxes are paid upon purchase of ticket.

Getting There By Water

Located in San Pedro Bay, approximately 20 miles south of Downtown Los Angeles, the Port of Los Angeles, 425 South Palos Verdes Street, San Pedro (tel: (310) SEA PORT/732 7678; website: www.portoflosangeles.org) is one of the world’s biggest and busiest seaports. As well as commercial shipping, the port’s World Cruise Center handles over one million cruise passengers every year and is a regular stop for visiting cruise ships. The area has also been revamped recently and now includes recreational facilities, such as a Maritime Museum, marina and aquarium.

Ferry services: The majority of the cruise ships are heading south towards Mexico, although Los Angeles is a stop on sailings to Alaska and other international destinations. There is also the Catalina Express (tel: (800) 481 3470; website: www.catalinaexpress.com), which operates a service to Santa Catalina Island (see Excursions).

Transport to the city: The shuttle bus Community Connection 142 operates from Ports O’ Call to Long Beach, where various MTA buses are available. Also at Long Beach, the Metro Rail station Transit Mall is on the Blue Line, which goes to Downtown. Taxis are also readily available.

Getting There By Road

Road travel in California is excellent, with good roads connecting Los Angeles to San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco.

Driving in the United States is on the right. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit but it must be accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. The minimum driving age in the USA is 16 years.

Speed limits are 25-35 mph (40-56 kph) in towns, 55mph (88kph) on highways and 65mph (105kph) on freeways, unless otherwise posted. Drivers may turn right at a red light, after stopping, unless there is a sign that prohibits it. Pedestrians have right of way. The wearing of seatbelts in a private vehicle is mandatory. Children under four years must be protected in car seats. California has strict laws against drink-driving and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Drink-driving laws are strictly enforced. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. Open containers of alcoholic beverages are not permitted in vehicles.

The American Automobile Association (AAA; tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.aaa-calif.com) can provide information, and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
Between 0630 and 1900, Caltrans (California Emergency Patrol) will assist freeway drivers with minor problems. For emergencies dial 911. Automobile Club members may call AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357.

Routes to the city: Interstate 5 (I-5) connects Los Angeles with Seattle in the north and San Diego in the south. The Pacific Coast Highway (State Highway 1) is a scenic route north along the California coast to Santa Barbara and San Francisco. Los Angeles is linked to Phoenix (Arizona) by I-10, to Las Vegas (Nevada) and Salt Lake City (Utah) by I-15, and to Oklahoma City (Oklahoma) and Memphis (Tennessee) by I-40.

Driving times to Los Angeles: From San Diego – 2 hours 45 minutes; Las Vegas – 5 hours 30 minutes; San Francisco – 8 hours.

Coach services: The main Greyhound (tel: (800) 229 9424 or (213) 629 8400; website: www.greyhound.com) coach station is at 1716 East Seventh Street. Greyhound provides coach services to cities nationwide. Facilities include baggage assistance, public toilets and snack bar.

Getting There By Rail

National and regional rail services are provided by Amtrak (tel: (800) 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com). METROLINK (tel: (800) 371 5465; website: www.metrolinktrains.com) is the regional rail system for southern California and connects with most cities in the region. The Los Angeles terminal for both is Union Station, located at 800 North Alameda Street on the edge of the Downtown business district. This vast, Art Deco, Spanish-style building, built in 1939, is an attraction itself. Although it still serves over a million passengers a year, rail travel figures have shrunk and many of its huge, arched rooms are fairly empty. The staff is very helpful often offering advice on saving money with special tickets, etc. Facilities include checked baggage, passenger information, waiting rooms and snack bar. The trains may not be the swiftest but they are commodious, clean and comfortable.

Rail services: The Los Angeles terminal is situated at the western end of major routes across the southern Rockies and is also the southern terminus of the West Coast line to Seattle (Washington). Frequent services go to stations as far south as San Diego. Five main Amtrak trains serve Los Angeles: the Coast Starlight which begins in Seattle; the Pacific Surfliner - San Luis Obispo, CA - Los Angeles, CA - San Diego, CA; Southwest Chief from Chicago; Sunset Limited from Orlando via New Orleans to Los Angeles and the Texas Eagle from Chicago via San Antonio, Texas.

Transport to the city: Union Station is a stop on Metro Red Line, which provides subway service to Downtown LA, Hollywood and beyond. City buses and taxis are also available.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Despite LA being one of the most car-oriented cities in the USA, public transport is good and swift. The Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA; tel: (800) COMMUTE/266 6883, route information or (213) 922 4682, customer relations; website: www.mta.net) actually operates over 1,900 buses (Metro Bus) (one of the largest fleets in the nation) as well as a subway system (Metro Rail). Due to the size of the city, buses can be time consuming and may involve changing, but if the subway stops where required, it is a very good option. For example, visitors could be whisked from Downtown to Hollywood in just 12 minutes, but add another 10 minutes or so if the train is not at the station.

The Metro Rail system has, at present, nearly 96km (60 miles) of interconnected subway and light rail tracks, covering 62 stations over four lines. The Blue Line connects Downtown Los Angeles and Long Beach. The Green Line runs along the median of Century Freeway and links Norwalk and El Segundo. The Red Line connects Union Station, Downtown LA, Hollywood, Universal City, North Hollywood. The new Gold Line runs from Union Station to Pasadena.

The standard fare for bus or rail is US$1.25 (US$1.35 for the Metro) one way. A weekly Metro pass (US$14) is good for unlimited rides on Metro Bus or Metro Rail, or passengers can buy ten Metro tokens for US$11 which can be used for one-way fares on either bus or rail. Many hotels, local convenience and grocery stores and Metro Customer Centers sell Metro passes and tokens.

Downtown Los Angeles also has a bus system called DASH, which circulates around the Downtown area. Fares are a low US$0.25. Maps and schedules are available on the bus or from a hotel concierge and signs are posted throughout the Downtown area. DASH is operated by LADOT (tel: 213, 310, 323 or 818 808 2273 or for route information (800) 252 9040; website: www.ladottransit.com).

Taxis
Although taxis are readily available, the size of Los Angeles makes them expensive and impractical for cross-town journeys. They are more useful for night journeys within one area. There are ten franchise taxi operators in the city. Visitors should look for the official Los Angeles Taxicab Seal before getting in, as those without it are ‘bandit’ cabs with no legal authorisation to operate. Taxis cannot be hailed on the street but there are ranks at major hotels and they can be telephoned for: Bell Cab (tel: (888) BELLCAB/235 5222; website: www.bellcab.com); Checker Cab (tel: (213) 481 2345) and LA Yellow Cab (tel: (310) 808 1000, (213) 808 1000, (818) 361 6959 or (877) 733 3305; website: www.layellowcab.com). All official taxis charge the same rates. The basic fare for a taxi ride is US$2 initial charge, then US$2 per mile.

Limousines
Chauffeur-driven cars and limousines are available from Chauffeurs Unlimited (tel: (800) 922 8583 or (310) 645 8711), ExecuCar (tel: (800) 801 7600; website: www.execucar.com), Integrated Transportation Services Inc (tel: (800) 487 4255; website: http://itslimo.com) and Orion Limousine Service (tel: (888) 431 5466; website: www.orionlimo.com). Rates start from around US$45 per hour and 18% tip.

Driving in the City
The distances between LA’s various points can seem intimidating at first, but it is relatively easy to get around the city in a car. However, it is hard to get a sense of compass points so visitors should try to plan their journey in advance and get to know a map of the major highways. Freeways running east-west have even numbers, while those running north-south have odd numbers. Most have a name as well as a number; and it is wise to ask for both when getting directions. The Downtown Visitor Information Center (tel: (213 689 8822) can help here.

The freeways are well marked, although very congested especially during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1900). Using helicopters, local radio stations broadcast frequent traffic reports 0600-1000 and 1500-1900. Many southern Californian freeways have designated fast lanes for ‘HOV’s or High Occupancy Vehicles only (also known as ‘car pool’) – usually cars carrying more than one person. Visitors should not merge into an HOV lane unless their car has the specified number of passengers, as fines are levied. There are call boxes with free telephones every half-mile along the freeways for emergencies.

There are numerous parking lots and garages throughout the city; prices vary widely, from around US$2-42 per day. Check garages for earlybird specials (before 0900). For on-street parking, however, visitors should read all signs carefully, as there is often a complicated system of days or hours when parking is not allowed for street cleaning etc. Illegally parked vehicles are quickly ticketed and may be towed away. A red curb means no parking. A green curb allows parking for a limited time. A white curb is for loading and unloading passengers only. Some streets have metered parking; meters generally take quarters (25-cent coins) and the fees are US$0.25 per 15 minutes in the Downtown area and US$0.25 for 20-30 minutes elsewhere. Meters are generally free after 1800 and on Sundays, but visitors should always check the signs. Many restaurants offer valet parking either free or for a nominal fee; valets should always be tipped US$1-2.

Car Hire
All the major car hire companies have offices around the LA area. These include Alamo (tel: (800) 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com); Avis (tel: (800) 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (800) 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: (800) 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: (800) 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: (800) 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: (800) 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). Drivers must be at least 25 years of age, depending on company policy. Daily rates begin at about US$36 and weekly car hire rates start at around US$178.

Los Angeles Rent-A-Car (tel: (310) 670 9945 or (800) 441 7368; website: www.la-rentacar.com) rents to drivers under the age of 25. Los Angeles loves classic cars; to hire these or any slightly more exotic vehicle, visitors could try Beverly Hills Rent A Car (tel: (800) 479 5996 or (310) 337 1400; website: www.bhrentacar.com).

Bicycle & Motorcycle Hire
Hollywood Pro Bicycles (tel: (323) 466 5890 or (888) 775 BIKE/2453; website: http://hollywoodprobicycles.com) is one of a few stores that rents road and mountain bikes. Prices are US$25 per day or US$80 per week. Perry’s Beach Cafe, 2400 and 2600 Oceanfront Walk, Santa Monica (tel: (310) 372 3138; website: www.perryscafe.com), has bike and skate rentals and easy access to the bike paths either side of Santa Monica Pier. Rates for both bike and skate rentals are US$7 per hour or US$20 per day and bikes rentals begin at US$9 per hour or US$25 per day. Bikestation, 105 The Promenade North, Long Beach (tel: (562) 436 BIKE/2453; website: www.bikestation.org), which links to public transportation and 53km (33 miles) of scenic bike paths, has quality bike rentals.

EagleRider Motorcycle Rental is located close to LAX Airport at 11860 South La Cienega Boulevard (tel: (800) 501 8687 or (310) 536 6777; website: www.eaglerider.com) and has motorcycle rentals, including Harley Davidsons, as well as motorcycle guided tours. Rentals cost US$170 per day and US$749 per week.

Business

Business Profile
There’s no business like show business – at least not in LA. The city is synonymous with film and television production and most of the nation’s leading production facilities for making blockbuster movies and hit TV shows are located here, led by such giants of the industry as Paramount, Universal, Warner Brothers, Fox and Disney studios.

Surprisingly, however, although the industry is the leading supplier of entertainment to the world and generates 31 billion US Dollars annually, entertainment ranks seventh among the city’s major enterprises. Preceding the entertainment industry in terms of number employed, the leading business sector in the five-county Los Angeles area is professional business services (a category that includes management services, advertising, computer programming, legal services and engineering) tourism is second, health and biological sciences are third; international and wholesale trade rank fourth and fifth, technology sixth.

The Los Angeles metropolitan area is often called the ‘Digital Coast’ and multimedia jobs are included in the 171,000 technology jobs that also include bio-med, digital information technology and advanced transportation technology. The region is also the country’s second largest manufacturing centre. Over 159,000 people work in health sciences/biomedical industry and 154,000 in aerospace. Furthermore, with over 125,000 jobs, LA’s fashion industry now has a larger workforce than that of New York’s garment industry.

LA is the leading import/export port in the United States, with US$212 billion worth of trading activity each year in the customs district that includes the Port of Los Angeles, Port of Long Beach, LAX and smaller ports. LA’s main port is located at San Pedro and is the largest man-made port in the world. Major exports include integrated circuits, aircraft, spacecraft, computers, aircraft parts and parts for office machines. Imports include computers, passenger vehicles, integrated circuits, office machine parts and reception apparatus.

Fortune 500 companies based in LA County include Merrill Lynch and Ernst & Young (accountants), J P Morgan Chase & Co (banking) and Charles Schwab & Co (medical), as well as the headquarters for Walt Disney, Occidental Petroleum, Health Net, Mattel and Hilton Hotels, among others.

In general, the LA economy is very healthy, despite the general downturn in the US economy over 2002. The unemployment rate at 6.2% is a bit higher than the national average of 5.6%.

The Los Angeles County Economic Development Corporation (tel: (888) 452 3321 website: www.laedc.org or www.laedc.info) can provide further information.

Business Etiquette
The wide variety of businesses in Los Angeles encourages a variety of styles, depending on the industry involved. In general, Californians cultivate a relaxed, informal atmosphere in keeping with the climate and the LA kind of life: ‘casual-smart’ dress is a good rule of thumb, especially within industries such as film and TV, computing or multimedia. More conservative suits and business dress are the norm in legal and financial institutions. Increasingly in the USA, Friday is a dress-down day in many businesses, with employees wearing jeans or other casual attire in anticipation of the weekend. After hours, some top restaurants and hotels require men to wear jacket and tie, but casual-smart is more often de rigueur.

The normal working day runs 0800/0900-1700, although some businesses start early, particularly in the film industry. Breakfast meetings, often as early as 0700, are quite common for busy executives. Lunch is generally between 1200 and 1300, or 1230 and 1330. Where alcohol is concerned, it is best to wait and check the preferences of the host. Many Americans stick to soft drinks, even milk. People are health-conscious: smoking or excessive drinking may be frowned upon in a business environment.

Business associates generally exchange business cards at an appropriate moment, usually towards the end of a meeting. Socialising is normally at lunchtime, sometimes during after-work drinks and/or dinner. LA is a notoriously early-to-bed town, due to the early starts in the film industry, so late nights are not common. Hosts generally do not invite clients or colleagues home unless they know them particularly well. Visitors may be given gifts related to their own business, such as pens or baseball caps complete with company logo on it, so similar gifts from a visitor’s company or typical items from his or her country would be appropriate.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The sights of Los Angeles are spread throughout five counties. At off-peak times, the freeways are quick and convenient and it is easy to get around.

Downtown LA comprises the financial district with skyscrapers that seem the more surprising because the rest of the city is so flat. It is also home to lively local communities with markets (there’s a fabled covered market for local produce) and shops. Here are Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Hispanic centre around Olvera Street, the historic district where the city was founded, with landmarks from the city’s early 20th-century heyday, as well as cultural institutions like the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and Museum of Contemporary Art. The LA Philharmonic’s dramatic new Walt Disney Concert Hall is one of the most striking recent additions to the city's cultural and architectural landscape and is reminiscent of Frank Gehry's other masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.

East of Downtown, the city of Pasadena, in the San Gabriel Valley, has a historic centre and two outstanding museums. To the west of Downtown is Hollywood, although the actual Hollywood sign is located high above Hollywood Boulevard up in the hills near Griffith Park. Although the famous sign is situated on a steep incline, which means that it cannot be visited, the extensive Griffith Park is great for a wander and fantastic panoramas of the whole city. It contains the famous 1935 Art Deco Griffith Observatory (website: www.griffithobs.org), although this is closed for renovation until 2005.

However, down below in actual Hollywood, the streets and boulevards are less glamorous than their name might suggest and the Hollywood Walk of Fame is fascinating but hardly high class. There have been successful attempts to upgrade areas, such as Hollywood and Vine, and there is a string of small museums, mostly connected to films, the famous Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, some notable if occasionally rundown Art Deco buildings and, on its northern edge, the popular Universal Studios.

The Westside encompasses trendy, fashionable and primarily gay West Hollywood, rich and handsome Beverly Hills, Miracle Mile, Century City, Westwood Village (where UCLA is situated) and Brentwood. Each has its own atmosphere and attractions. West Hollywood has a glitzy stretch of Sunset Boulevard, with its enormous hand-painted billboards on the sides of buildings, while Rodeo Drive is Beverly Hills’ most famous street.

Stretching along the Pacific coast are the Beach Cities, including Santa Monica, Venice Beach, and Marina Del Rey, as well as Malibu to the north and Long Beach, which lies south of Downtown on San Pedro Bay. Southeast of Downtown is Orange County, home of Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm theme parks. To the north is the wide San Fernando Valley, a largely residential area with several film and TV studios.

Tourist Information
There are two walk-in Visitor Information Centers in the city:

Downtown Los Angeles Visitor Information Center
685 South Figueroa Street, between Wilshire Boulevard and Seventh Street
Tel: (213) 689 8822 or (800) 228 2452.
Website: www.visitlanow.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0830-1700.

Hollywood Visitor Information Center
6801 Hollywood
Tel: (323) 467 6412.

The organisations below also provide information online or by telephone/fax.

Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau
239 South Beverly Drive
Tel: (800) 345 2210 or (310) 248 1015.
Website: www.beverlyhillscvb.com

West Hollywood Convention and Visitors Bureau
8687 Melrose Avenue, Suite M-38 West
Tel: (310) 289 2525 or (800) 368 6020.
Website: www.visitwesthollywood.com

Passes
The CityPass (website: www.citypass.com) allows free admission to six attractions: Universal Studios Hollywood, Kodak Theatre Guided Tour, Starline Tours of Hollywood, Hollywood Entertainment Museum and Hollywood Museum in the Max Factor Building. It costs US$72 (a US$47.75 savings on the total cost of all the attractions) and is good for 30 days from the first use. It can be purchased online or from the first attraction visited.

Key Attractions

Downtown

El Pueblo de Los Angeles (and Olvera Street)
The birthplace of Los Angeles, just north of the financial district with its huge skyscrapers, is now a state historic park. In 1781, Father Junipero Serra, founder of many of California’s Spanish missions, and Don Felipe de Neve journeyed north from Mexico and established a pueblo here on the site of a former Indian village. Its name – El Pueblo de Nuestra Seora la Reina de Los Angeles de Porciuncula (The Town of Our Lady Queen of the Angels of Porciuncula) – outweighed its size and it was soon shortened to Los Angeles. The 27 historic adobe buildings date from the early 19th century and pay tribute to the city’s Spanish heritage. They include the Avila Adobe, the city’s oldest home; the Old Plaza Church and the Sepulveda House, which now serves as the El Pueblo Visitor Information Center. The heart of the district is Olvera Street, a lively place with strolling mariachi bands, stalls selling Mexican handicrafts and good Mexican restaurants, some still run by the original families.

North Alameda and Spring Streets
Tel: (213) 628 1274.
Transport: Metro Red Line Union Station/Gateway Transit Center.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900; Mon-Sat 1000-1500 (Visitor Center).
Admission: Free.

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
Housed in a striking red sandstone building designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, this celebrated art museum showcases the work of leading modern artists. The permanent collection features the likes of Piet Mondrian and Mark Rothko, while temporary exhibitions highlight contemporary themes and artists of international renown. Pyramid skylights enhance the bright galleries, while the courtyard sports an attractive fountain. MOCA has a secondary site, which is located close by and accessible by free shuttle, called Geffen Contemporary, which hosts changing exhibitions in an old warehouse. MOCA’s newest third venue is at the Pacific Design Centre in West Hollywood, which focuses on contemporary architecture and design.

California Plaza, 250 South Grand Avenue
Geffen Contemporary, 152 North Central Avenue
Pacific Design Centre, 8687 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood
Tel: (213) 626 6222.
Website: www.moca-la.org
Transport: Metro Red Line Pershing Square.
Opening hours: Mon, Fri 1100-1700 , Tues, Wed closed, Thurs 1100-2000, Sat, Sun 1100-1800.
Admission: US$8, Thurs free.

Southwest Museum
Los Angeles’ first museum, established in 1907, contains one of the foremost collections of Native American art and artefacts in the nation. Enlightening exhibits on tribal life are well presented and there are fine examples of kachina dolls, native dress and ceremonial costumes, musical instruments, ceramics, weapons, everyday objects and a large display of basketry. The museum lies just north of Downtown, on a hillside beyond Dodger Stadium.

234 Museum Drive
Tel: (323) 221 2164.
Website: www.southwestmuseum.org
Transport: Metro Bus 81 or 83 or the Gold Metro Line, Southwestern Museum station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: US$7.50.

Walt Disney Concert Hall
The stainless steel ribbon-like exterior of the LA Philharmonic’s new home shimmers and sparkles in the sunlight. Architect Frank Gehry has outdone himself with this US$270-million, steel masterpiece which took 16 years to construct. The sleek, 2,265-seat building is said to have one of the world’s most highly developed acoustical systems. Most noteworthy is its huge organ containing 6,134 pipes ranging from pencil size to as large as 9 metres (32 ft) high.

111 South Grand Avenue
Tel: (323) 850 2000.
Website: http://wdch.laphil.com
Transport: Red Line – Pershing Square.
Opening hours: Non-matinee days 0900-1500; matinee days 0900-1030.
Admission: Self-guided audio tour are US$10; concessions available.

Hollywood

Grauman’s Chinese Theatre and the Hollywood Walk of Fame
Built by showman Sid Grauman in 1927, this is the most famous of the flamboyant picture palaces along this stretch of Hollywood Boulevard. As part of the development of the area (see Hollywood and Highland below) the theatre has been extensively renovated; the inside has been opulently restored, while the exotic oriental faade is resplendent in its pastel greens, crowned by a red pagoda roof. The ticket booth has been moved from the forecourt – which remains the main attraction here. It is where the hand and footprints of Hollywood celebrities are embedded into the cement. This signature parade started quite by accident, when actress Constance Talmadge tripped and stepped in wet cement at the grand opening. Among the more unusual signatures are Jimmy Durante’s nose and the hoof prints of Roy Roger’s horse Trigger. All kinds of characters hang out at Grauman’s. People, just looking to make a couple of bucks, dress like famous characters such as Michael Jackson, Sponge Bob Square Pants, Spiderman, Elmo and Marilyn Monroe. VIP backstage tours are about 35 minutes long and include a short film. The cinema still shows first-run movies, another way to see its lavish interior. Other Art Deco theatres nearby worth a look are Pacific El Capitan, The Egyptian and Pantages.

The Hollywood Walk of Fame passes outside the front of the Chinese Theatre. This trail of bronze stars embedded in the paving stones runs 5.5km (3.5 miles) along Hollywood Boulevard between La Brea and Gower Streets, and along Vine Street between Yucca Street and Sunset Boulevard. It honours artists in the film, television and music industries and the first star imbedded in the pavement in 1960 was one for Joanne Woodward. Today, they number well over 2,000.

Grauman’s Chinese Theatre
6925 Hollywood Boulevard
Tel: (323) 464 8111 or 323 463-9576 for tour times.
Transport: Metro Red Line Hollywood/Highland.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (forecourt).
Website: www.manntheatres.com/chinese
Admission: Free (forecourt); tours US$10; concessions available.

Hollywood Walk of Fame
Website: www.explorehollywood.com

Hollywood and Highland
Built around the Chinese Theatre, as part of a US$615-million plan to revitalise Hollywood Boulevard, this massive retail and entertainment complex, which opened in 2001, is known as Hollywood and Highland because of its location above the Hollywood and Highland subway station. The open-air, five-storey complex includes shops, restaurants, nightclubs, theatres, cinemas, a hotel, a ballroom and the Hollywood Motion Picture Collection. It is also home to the Kodak Theater, also known as the Academy Awards Theater as it has become the new permanent venue for the Oscars ceremony. The complex’s observation tower showcases a panoramic view of the famous Hollywood sign.

6801 Hollywood Boulevard
Tel: (323) 467 6412.
Website: www.hollywoodandhighland.com
Transport: Metro Red Line Hollywood/Highland.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-2200, Sun 1000-1900.
Admission: Free; attractions cost.

Hollywood History Museum
The Max Factor Building has been restored to its original 1935 state and now houses the Hollywood History Museum. The museum features a wide array of exhibits, including costumes and props used in Hollywood films, photographs, posters, scripts, awards and more. Displays begin with the Silent Era and work their way through Hollywood’s Golden Era, to state-of-the-art technology and the future of the industry. Particularly impressive are the special events at the museum, where the presentations on Hollywood history are given by those who actually helped to forge that history. The site will also feature a Mel’s Drive-In, a retro diner that is an example of pure Americana, made famous in the George Lucas film American Graffiti.

Max Factor Building
1660 North Highland Avenue
Tel: (323) 464 7776.
Website: www.hollywoodhistorymuseum.org
Transport: Metro Red Line Hollywood/Highland.
Opening hours: Thurs-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: US$15; concessions available.

Universal Studios Hollywood
Part film and TV studio, part theme park, Universal Studios is one of the most popular attractions in Los Angeles. A behind-the-scenes tram tour of film sets has a simulated flash flood and collapsing bridge, as well as surprise attacks by the shark from Jaws and by King Kong. Revenge of the Mummy, a roller coaster thrill ride and Van Helsing: Fortress Dracula, which attempts to make the movie come to life, are the park’s newest offerings. With stunt shows, musical entertainment and a variety of thrill rides, such as Back to the Future, it is a lively day of Hollywood at its best.

100 Universal City Plaza
Tel: (800) UNIVERSAL (864 837725)
Website: www.universalstudios.com/hollywood
Transport: Metro Red Line Universal City.
Opening hours: Vary from month to month; between 1000-1800 and 0800-2200.
Admission: US$49.75 (one-day pass), Front of the Line Pass eliminates waiting for rides and gives visitors the best seats for shows, US$89.75. VIP Experience also includes a behind-the-scenes tour, US$135.

Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel
This classic 12-storey 305-room hotel celebrated its 75th diamond anniversary in 2002. The oldest continuously operating hotel in Hollywood, the Roosevelt Hotel is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places and is a Hollywood Historic Site. It was founded by a syndicate of Hollywood luminaries in 1927 and was actually the birthplace of the Academy Awards, as the first Oscars ceremony took place here on 19 May 1929. Recently restored to its Spanish Colonial splendour, it is one of the key attractions on Hollywood Boulevard.

7000 Hollywood Boulevard
Tel: (323) 466 7000 or (800) 950 7667. Fax: (323) 462 8056.
Email: reserve@hollywoodroosevelt.com
Website: www.hollywoodroosevelt.com
Transport: Metro Red Line Hollywood/Highland
Admission: Free.

The Westside

Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits
Smack in the middle of LA, the La Brea Tar Pits are a fascinating survival from prehistoric times. They have yielded more than four million fossils (one of the largest caches in the world) from the Pleistocene Era, dating back 40,000 years. Inside the museum are the skeletons of long-extinct animals, such as the imperial mammoth, giant sloth, sabre-toothed tiger and dire wolf, who became trapped and preserved in the thick black tar, or ‘brea’, that seeped up through the ground. Visitors can watch palaeontologists cleaning and cataloguing fossils and see excavations from viewing stations beside the tar pits.

5801 Wilshire Boulevard
Tel: (323) 934 PAGE/7243.
Website: www.tarpits.org
Transport: Metro Bus 20, 21, 22 or 217.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: US$7; free admission the first Tuesday of each month.

Los Angeles County Museum of Art
Housed in four main buildings around a courtyard, this outstanding collection of art and artefacts forms (over 150,000 of them) is one of the leading art museums in the United States. In the enormous Ahmanson Building, art, sculpture and decorative arts from Asia, Europe and the Americas are on display. Highlights of the collection include the Indian and Southeast Asian art collection, regarded as the finest in the West; the Western Art galleries and pre-Columbian artefacts from Latin America. There is a special Japanese Pavilion, the striking, modern Robert O Anderson Building and the Bing Theater.

5905 Wilshire Boulevard
Tel: (323) 857 6000.
Website: www.lacma.org
Transport: Metro Bus 20, 21, 22 or 320.
Opening hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs 1200-2000, Fri 1200-2100, Sat and Sun 1100-2000.
Admission: US$9.

UCLA Hammer Museum of Art and Cultural Center
The main collection at this museum is an impressive display of Old Masters, Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings, which were acquired by the late industrialist Armand Hammer. This collection is shown on a rotating basis and includes works by Constable, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Monet, as well as a room full of lithographs by Honor Daumier. Run by UCLA, the museum also displays exhibitions from the Grunwald Center for the Graphic Arts, which cover graphic art from the Renaissance to the present day. There is also a distinguished outdoor Sculpture Garden, as well as special exhibitions and programmes.

10899 Wilshire Boulevard
Tel: (310) 443 7000.
Website: www.hammer.ucla.edu
Transport: Metro Bus 20, 21 or 22.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1100-1900 (until 2100 on Thurs), Sun 1100-1700.
Admission: US$5; free Thurs.

Getty Center
From the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains, the marble terraces of the Getty Center afford spectacular panoramic views of the city, the mountains and the ocean. The unique buildings designed by architect Richard Meier employ simple forms, such as squares and circles. They contain not only J Paul Getty’s painting collection (interesting but hardly top rank), but a centre for the study of archaeology, culture, art history and humanities. The changing exhibitions vary from Byzantine art to American photographers. The galleries display sculpture, photographs, drawings, furniture and more than 100 illuminated manuscripts. Lectures, concerts and educational programmes are also held here. The Getty Center is surrounded by beautiful gardens with rare and native plants and trees. The handheld electronic Getty Guide, a self-guided audio tour, is worth the US$3 charge. Visitors should plan to stay for a whole day.

1200 Getty Center Drive
Tel: (310) 440 7300.
Website: www.getty.edu
Transport: Metro Bus 561 or Santa Monica Big Blue Bus 14; or free shuttle tram from car park on Sepulveda Boulevard and Constitution Avenue.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (until 2100 Fri and Sat).
Admission: Free.
On-site parking: US$5 (reservations essential).

Museum of Tolerance
Visitors should allow at least two hours to experience this thought-provoking museum and last entry is, in fact, two hours before closing time. The main part of the museum is devoted to the Holocaust and is a moving journey from the Jewish ghettos to Hitler’s death camps in an hour-long timed tour. The museum contains high-tech, interactive exhibits that explore racism and bigotry in America through events such as the LA riots of 1992, while the Tolerancenter focuses on major intolerance issues in daily life. Upstairs are archives and a multimedia learning centre.

9786 West Pico Boulevard
Tel: (310) 553 8403 or (800) 900 9036.
Website: www.museumoftolerance.com
Transport: Metro Bus 3, Santa Monica Municipal Bus 5 or 7.
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 1130-1830, Fri 1130-1700, Sun 1100-1930. Fri closes 1500 Nov-Mar. Last admission 2 hours before closing time.
Admission: US$10; pre-paid admissions are advisable.

Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens
In one visit, it is virtually impossible to fit everything on this lavish estate. The former home of railroad tycoon Henry E Huntington is filled with French porcelain, tapestries, American paintings and a remarkable collection of British and French art from the 18th and 19th centuries. Famous highlights are Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Lawrence’s Pinkie. Among the four million items in the Library are rare books and manuscripts: a Gutenberg Bible, an early 15th-century manuscript of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales and early editions of Shakespeare. Visitors should save some time to stroll in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, whose 81 hectares (200 acres) include a Japanese garden, desert garden, rose garden and changing landscapes.

1151 Oxford Road, San Marino
Tel: (626) 405 2100.
Website: www.huntington.org
Transport: Metro Bus 401 from Downtown to Pasadena, then 20-minute walk. Metro Gold Line-Allen Station.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1630, Sat and Sun 1030-1630.
Admission: US$15.

Norton Simon Museum
This renowned collection of European art ranges from the Renaissance to the 20th century. There are works by Rembrandt, Picasso, the Impressionists, a collection of Degas’ sculptures, as well as leading works by Rodin. The sculptures from Southeast Asia and India, spanning 2000 years, are breathtaking.

411 West Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena
Tel: (626) 449 6840. Fax: (626) 796 4978.
Website: www.nortonsimon.org
Transport: Metro Bus 401 from Downtown to Pasadena, then bus 180 or take the Metro Gold Line to Del Mar Station.
Opening hours: Daily except Tues 1200-1800 (until 2100 Fri).
Admission: US$6; self-guided audio tours US$3.

Beach Cities

Santa Monica
Long and wide, Santa Monica Boulevard, if followed to its western end, comes out on Santa Monica itself. It sits at the crossroads of Pacific Coast Highway (Route One) and California Interstate 10. With its village feel, its cafs, shops and restaurants, it is one of the more people-friendly areas of Los Angeles – it has the only pedestrianised street in the city, for example. The place is famed for its 42km (26-mile) beach which includes Muscle Beach, a 1.214-hectare (3-acre) outdoor gym which sparked the fitness craze. Another famous landmark, the Santa Monica Pier, juts out into the Pacific from a wide sandy beach. It is one of the most nostalgic spots in LA. The original fishing pier was built in 1909 and another one for strolling was added in 1921, but by the 1970s both were in a shabby state. In the 1980s, a restoration programme rejuvenated the pier. Besides the original arcades (now Playland Arcade) and the carousel dating from 1916, there is now an aquarium, the UCLA Ocean Discovery Center, and Pacific Park, an amusement park with rides, a Ferris wheel, a small rollercoaster and a new tower ride which rises to 12 metres (40 ft). During the summer, there is dancing and live music on Thursday nights. A good time to go is towards the end of the day as the sunsets can be fabulous, especially at the very western end of Sunset Boulevard (obviously enough).

Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau
520 Broadway, Suite 250
Tel: (800) 544 5319.
Website: www.santamonica.com

Colorado and Ocean Avenues
Tel: (310) 458 8900.
Website: www.santamonicapier.org
Transport: Metro Bus 4, 20, 22, 33, 320 or 434.
Admission: Free.

Playland Arcade
Tel: (310) 451 5133. Fax: (310) 394 1587.
Website: www.playlandarcade.com
Transport: Metro Bus 4, 20, 22, 33, 320 or 434.
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-2400, Fri and Sat 1000-0200. Changes seasonally.
Admission: Free.

UCLA Ocean Discovery Center
Tel: (310) 393 6149. Fax: (310) 393 4839.
Website: www.odc.ucla.edu
Transport: Metro Bus 4, 20, 22, 33, 320 or 434.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1400-1800, Sat and Sun 1230-1800.
Admission: US$5.

Pacific Park
Tel: (310) 260 8744. Fax: (310) 260 8748.
Website: www.pacpark.com
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1100-2300, Fri and Sat 1100-2430. Changes seasonally.
Admission: Free; plus individual rides. Unlimited wristbands: US$9.95/19.95 depending on height.

Venice Beach
Further south along the coast is the slightly more bohemian Venice Beach. Its Boardwalk, a path alongside the beach, is one of the liveliest places to view LA joie de vivre. Buskers, mime artists, painters, cyclists, palm readers and rollerbladers all mingle here, chilling out, hustling, cruising the sands, wearing colourful attire and often very little at all. There are shops, stalls and cafs for people-watching. The notorious Muscle Beach, which relocated here after the Santa Monica Pier closed in 1959, is where male and female weight lifters pec-flex in the sun. It is the place for ogling.

Marine Street to the Venice Pier
Tel: (310) 392 4687, ext 6.
Transport: Metro Bus 33.
Website: www.westland.net/venice

Marina del Rey
To the south of Venice, 40km (25 miles) from Los Angeles, are the beaches, watersports, bike and walking trails, shopping and restaurants that comprise the heart of this seaside resort town. Most activities centre around its huge man-made marina, the nation’s largest. The marina is a haven for more than 5,300 pleasure boats, so if you want to sail, fish, whale watch or cruise, this is the place.

Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau
4701 Admiralty Way
Tel: (310) 305 9545. Fax: (310) 306 6605.
Website: www.VisitTheMarina.com
Transport: Metro Bus 33.

Pasadena

Except for New Year’s Day, when all eyes turn to the Tournament of Roses Parade and Rose Bowl football game, Pasadena is a quiet place. Nestled at the foot of the San Gabriel Mountains, its tree-lined streets and open-air shopping districts, like Paseo Colorado, Salt Lake Avenue and the quaint Old Pasadena, make it a lovely place for a stroll.

Further Distractions

Disneyland
A trip to Los Angeles is probably not complete without a visit to America’s favourite theme park. For 50 years, adults with a healthy cynicism about the Mouse have found themselves grinning. The park is divided into themed ‘lands’ (Main Street USA, Tomorrowland, Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland and Toontown) each with a variety of rides and entertainment. Favourite attractions include the Haunted Mansion, Space Mountain, Star Tours and Indiana Jones Adventure. The fabulous Electrical Parade and nighttime laser light show are worth the trip.

Located next to Disneyland, Disneyland California Adventure has four theme areas that represent California: pass under the Golden Gate Bridge at Sunshine Plaza , then visit Paradise Pier hyping the glories of seaside piers, Hollywood Pictures Backlot, A bug’s land – life from a bug’s point of view, and Golden State which celebrates the history and beauty of California. Its newest ride, the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, plunges riders down a 43-metre (13-storey) elevator shaft.

1313 Harbor Boulevard, Anaheim
Tel: (714) 781 4565.
Website: www.disney.go.com
Transport: Metro Bus 460 or the Super Shuttle.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100 (until 2400 on Sat). Extended hours during summer/holidays: 0800-2400. Main Street open from 0830. Hours vary – visitors should check.
Admission: One-day pass: US$49.75, US$39.75 for children 3-9. Multiple-day passes are cheaper.

Knott’s Berry Farm
America’s oldest theme park began in the 1930s, when Walter Knott built the ‘Ghost Town’ to entertain customers queuing for his wife’s boysenberry pies and chicken dinners. Today, there are several themed areas with shows and attractions, but the park’s biggest draw is its hair-raising thrill rides, including Montezooma’s Revenge, Supreme Scream and Ghost Rider, one of the tallest and longest wooden rollercoasters in the West. Its newest thrill ride is the 50s-themed XCELERATOR, which has cars that look like '57 Chevys.

8039 Beach Boulevard, Buena Park
Tel: (714) 220 5200.
Website: www.knotts.com
Transport: Metro Bus 460 or the Super Shuttle.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-2200, Sun 1000-1900; extended summer and holiday hours.
Admission: US$43.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Walking tours of Downtown Los Angeles are given by Los Angeles Conservancy Tours (tel: (213) 623 2489; website: www.laconservancy.org). The tours cover landmark buildings and historic areas, such as Pershing Square, Broadway theatre district and Little Tokyo, and cost US$10 per person. Red Line Tours (tel: (323) 402 1074; website: www.redlinetours.com) offers historic walking tours of Downtown and Hollywood, providing each person with a head set of the live commentary. These tours have rare access to the interiors of buildings and usually cost US$20. Architours (tel: (323) 294 5821; website: www.architours.com, US$25) gives art and architecture tours of the city.

Bus Tours
LA City Tours (tel: (310) 581 0718 or (888) 800 7878; website: www.lacitytours.com/la.php) offers a five-and-a-half-hour bus tour of Los Angeles, which includes Downtown, Hollywood, the beaches and movie star homes and costs US$50. They also offer excursions to San Diego, Mexico and Las Vegas. Starline Tours (tel: (800) 959 3131; website: www.starlinetours.com) offer various bus tours of Los Angeles, from the one-hour ‘Hollywood Trolley Tour’ for US$16 to the seven-and-a-half-hour tour combining ‘Grand Tour of Los Angeles’ and ‘Movie Stars’ Homes’ for US$72. Starline’s other multitude of tours range from $US16 to $US90.

Bike Tours
Perry’s Beach Cafe and Rentals, 2400 and 2600 Oceanfront Walk, Santa Monica (tel: (310) 372 3138; website: www.perryscafe.com), offers tours along the beach in Santa Monica or Venice and its canals – on bicycle or rollerblade. Tours range from US$30 to US$60.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Long Beach: The city of Long Beach, the second largest in Los Angeles County, is directly south of Downtown LA, an easy drive on the Long Beach freeways (I-710). Alternatively, Metro Blue Line runs from Downtown to the Transit Mall at Long Beach, and from there the Passport Shuttle has free service to the major Long Beach attractions. The charming Long Beach was a popular seaside resort in the early 1900s. The discovery of oil in 1921 sparked a boom of industrial and commercial development, including the construction of a harbour. In the 1990s, the city turned to tourism again, restoring historic areas and developing a host of new attractions along its 9km (5.5 miles) of wide and splendid sandy beach. At Long Beach Harbour, visitors can tour the majestic Queen Mary, the 1934 luxury liner that once carried celebrities and royalty on transatlantic voyages (tel: (562) 435 3511; website: www.queenmary.com; open: daily 1000-1800; admission: US$28). Nearby, the Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific (tel: (562) 590 3100; open: daily 0900-1800; admission: US$18.95, combo aquarium/Queen Mary ticket: US$34) is home to more than 550 species of marine animals in a variety of ocean habitats. Further along the shore are the Long Beach Museum of Art, 2300 Ocean Boulevard. (tel: (562) 439 2119; website: www.lbma.org; open: Tues-Sun 1100-1700, Thurs 1000-2000; admission: US$5), the Shoreline Village shopping centre and Gondola Getaway (tel: (562) 433 9595; website: www.gondolagetawayinc.com; trips: 1100-2300; price: US$65 for two people), with gondola cruises through the canals of Naples Island. The Promenade walkway from the marina to the business district is lined with restaurants and nightlife venues. Historic walks take in landmark buildings and some of the city’s 50 murals. For more information, visit the Long Beach Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, Suite 300, One World Trade Center (tel: (562) 436 3645 or (800) 452 7829; website: www.golongbeach.org).

For a Whole Day

Catalina Island: Just 35km (22 miles) across the ocean from Long Beach is the idyllic Catalina Island. This peaceful island where no cars are allowed has long been a favourite retreat for stressed-out Angelenos. The Catalina Express (tel: (800) 481 3470; website: www.catalinaexpress.com) runs a ferry service from Long Beach or San Pedro Port. The journey time from Long Beach is about 1-2 hours depending on the boat and, while the island makes a pleasant day trip, it also rewards a longer stay. Round-trip fares from Long Beach cost from US$47.50. Avalon, the island capital, sits in the hills above a crescent-shaped harbour, with a beach. At one end is the landmark Casino, with its grand ballroom, where people came to dance to the big bands of the 1930s and 40s. A visitor centre on the pier books tours of the Casino, glass-bottom boat rides or visits to the rugged interior where there is a herd of buffaloes. Relax on the beach or enjoy a variety of watersports. The Catalina Island Visitors Bureau & Chamber of Commerce (tel: (310) 510 1520; website: www.catalina.com) can provide information.

Sport

With several top professional teams, Los Angeles offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy spectator sports. Baseball is America’s favourite summer pastime, and Dodger Stadium, 1000 Elysian Park Avenue (tel: (323) 224 1500), north of Downtown, is the home of the Los Angeles Dodgers (website: www.dodgers.com). The season runs April-October; tickets cost US$6-60. Staples Center, 1111 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 742 7340; website: www.staplescenter.com), is a new sports/entertainment arena and the home of two basketballs teams, LA Lakers (tel: (310) 426 6000; website: www.nba.com/lakers: tickets US$10-400) and LA Clippers (tel: (213) 742 7500; website: www.nba.com/clippers), as well as the ice hockey team, LA Kings (tel:(888) 546 4752; website: www.lakings.com). Tickets cost from US$16-137. The winter sports season runs October-April.

LA has not had a resident National Football League team since 1995, so the star collegiate teams ignite Angelenos’ passions. UCLA games (tel: (310)825 5292; website: www.uclabruins.com; tickets from US$25) are at the Rose Bowl, 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena (tel: (626) 577 3100; website: www.rosebowlstadium.com), the venue for the New Year’s Day parade and college football tournament. The Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, 3911 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 748 6131; website: www.lacoliseum.com), is the home venue for UCLA’s football rival, USC (tel: (213) 740 4672; website: www.usctrojans.com).

There is a soccer team, the LA Galaxy (tel: (310) 630 2200; website: www.lagalaxy.com; tickets US$15-45), who play in the Major League. They play at the Home Depot Center in Carson (tel: (213) 480 3232 for tickets or (310) 630 2000 for general information).

Fitness centres: Fitness is huge in LA. Fitness centres that allow day members include: 24-Hour Fitness (tel: (310) 410 9909; website: www.24hourfitness.com), in Santa Monica, West Hollywood and Beverly Hills; Gold’s Gym (tel: (213) 688 1441; website: www.goldsgym.com), in Venice Beach and Hollywood; and Bally Total Fitness (tel: (800) 515 2582; website: www.ballyfitness.com), with Downtown and Hollywood locations.

Golf: There are numerous public golf courses in the area. A list can be obtained from the Convention and Visitors Bureau. Green fees start from US$20, although upmarket courses, such as Malibu, will be much higher.

Horseracing: Located 23km (14 miles) northeast of Downtown, Santa Anita Park, 285 West Huntington Drive, Arcadia (tel: (626) 574 6366; website: www.santaanita.com: general admission US$5), is LA’s historic thoroughbred racecourse.

Tennis: The City of Los Angeles Recreation and Parks Department (tel: (818) 246 4088; website: www.ci.la.ca.us/rap) maintains over 100 public tennis courts around the metro area. Many are free, on a first-come, first-served basis.

Shopping

The most famous shopping street in Los Angeles is Rodeo Drive, off Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills. Those without hefty bank balances can still go window-shopping at jewellery stores like Harry Winston and Tiffany’s or the flagship stores of all the designer names, from Gucci to Tommy Hilfiger. At the end of Rodeo Drive are larger department stores, such as Barney’s and Saks.

Not far away is the Beverly Center, a favourite shopping mall of the stars, and Century City Shopping Center, an outdoor shopping plaza; both with branches of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, as well as speciality shops.

For eight blocks from Coldwater Canyon to Laurel Canyon, in Studio City, Ventura Boulevard is shopping for the celebs. They have been spotted in the smart shops, which include home decorating shops, exclusive designer boutiques, trendier younger designers, some highstreet clothes shops etc. Notable shops include the Indian Art Center, which has been selling Native American arts and crafts for 35 years and was one of the first places to do so; also The Big Easy is the place for cigar smokers. Ventura Boulevard also has many trendy restaurants.

Westwood Village, adjacent to the UCLA campus, is easier on the pocketbook and has a range of inexpensive shops. Melrose Avenue, between Highland Avenue and Doheny Drive, is lined with 20th-century antique shops and trendy fashion boutiques, from Mui Mui to Red Balls (featured in the opening credits of the TV show Melrose Place). La Brea Avenue, off Melrose Avenue, has more hip boutiques and vintage clothing stores, including the huge American Rag. The Silver Lake area, on the border of Los Feliz and Hollywood (Vermont Avenue and Sunset Boulevard), is dubbed the ‘Soho of LA’. It has stalls and boutiques selling stylish vintage and retro clothing.

Santa Monica’s Third Street Promenade is a pedestrianised mall that runs for several blocks and is lined with shops and outdoor cafs. At one end is Santa Monica Place, an indoor mall with department stores and boutiques. Chic shopping can be found nearby on Montana Avenue, between Seventh and 17th Streets.

Downtown has various shopping complexes and gallerias, including the highly recommended Grand Central Market on South Broadway, which is a cornucopia of fresh foods, fruits and vegetables. In the Jewelry District (Hill Street between West Fifth and West Seventh Streets), visitors can find good bargains, while the Fashion District is a real shopping experience (a 56-block mix of wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers selling merchandise at discounts). The Downtown Property Owners Association have maps detailing public transportation routes, the dates of sales and where to find designer merchandise.

The kitsch shops along Hollywood Boulevard are best for the inevitably tacky souvenirs.

Shopping hours are generally 0900-1800 although malls will close at 2100/2200. Sales tax of 8.25% is not reclaimable.

Culture

Given the fact that LA is the home of the film industry, it might come as a surprise that the city is also the home of a wide range of cultural scenes, all thriving. The leading venue in Los Angeles is the Performing Arts Center (PAC), a complex of four theatres known as the Music Center, which is located at 135 North Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 972 7211; website: www.musiccenter.org), in the heart of Downtown.

The complex stages music, theatre, dance and opera and includes the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion (host for many years to the Oscars ceremony), the Mark Taper Forum, Ahmanson Theater and the new Walt Disney Concert Hall, 111 South Grand Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.wdch.laphil.com). The Walt Disney Concert Hall is the new home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic (website: www.laphil.com) and the Los Angeles Master Chorale.

The best source of up-to-date information on cultural events around the city is the Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau (tel: (213) 624 7300; website: www.visitLAnow.com). Tickets can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (213) 480 3232; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Other agencies that handle concert, sport and theatre tickets include Musical Chairs (tel: (800) 659 1702 or (310) 207 7070; website: www.musicalchairstickets.com), Al Brooks Theatre Ticket Agency (tel: (800) 341 2766 or (213) 626 5863; website: www.albrooks.com) and V.I.P Tickets (tel: (800) 328 4253; website: www.viptickets.com).

Music: The Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.laphil.org) is one of the best in the world and performs at the Walt Disney Concert Hall (see above). The Los Angeles Opera (tel: (213) 972 8001; website: www.losangelesopera.com) performs at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion (see above). Chamber music and performances by distinguished alumni can be heard at the Zipper Concert Hall at the Colburn School of Performing Arts, 200 South Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 621 2200; website: www.colburnschool.edu). The classic summer venue to hear music outdoors is the Hollywood Bowl, 2301 Highland Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.hollywoodbowl.org), with concerts by the Los Angeles Philharmonic, as well as jazz and pop artists.

Theatre: The Ahmanson Theater at the PAC (see above) stages large classical productions. Smaller and more adventurous productions take place in the Mark Taper Forum, a theatre-in-the-half-round, also at the PAC.

The Geffen Playhouse, 11301 Wilshire Boulevard (tel: (310) 208 5454; website: www.geffenplayhouse.com) stages classical and contemporary plays in a historic building in Westwood Village. The Pantages Theater, 6233 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 468 1770; website: www.nederlander.com/wc) is an outstanding Art Deco theatre that hosts Broadway musicals and concerts, while the Pasadena Playhouse, 39 South El Molino Avenue (tel: (626) 356 7529; website: www.pasadenaplayhouse.org) is an incredible 1925 Spanish Colonial Revival building.

Theatre LA, 644 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 614 0556; website: www.theatrela.org), is an association of some 150 theatres; services include Times Tix, a half-price day-of-the-show ticket outlet.

Dance: The Joffrey Ballet Company (website: www.joffrey.com) has its main west-coast season in the spring at the PAC (see above). In March, the Shrine Auditorium, 649 West Jefferson Boulevard (tel: (213) 748 5116; website: www.usc.edu/dept/CCR/theme/shrine), hosts the American Ballet Theater (website: www.abt.org). The UCLA Center for the Arts, 4405 North Hillgard, Westwood (tel: (310) 825 2101; website: www.performingarts.ucla.edu), is the venue for touring dance troupes, as well as the UCLA Dance Company.

Film: The historic Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 464 8111), presents first-run movies. Pacific El Capitan Theatre, 6838 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 467 7674), also screens first-run films. The Egyptian Theatre, 6712 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 461 2020), shows foreign films and documentaries in Hollywood’s oldest restored cinema. The Pacific Theatres Cinerama Dome, 120 North Robertson Boulevard (tel: (323) 464 4226), has been refurbished in keeping with its late 50s architecture and turned into the centrepiece of a three-level entertainment and retail centre, with 15 screens and shops and restaurants.

As for films that are shot in the city, it would be easier to compile a list of those that weren’t. Films that capture various different moods of LA include Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard (1950), starring Gloria Swanson, and more recently LA Confidential (1997) and Swingers (1996).

Cultural Events: The Los Angeles Festival is a city-wide arts festival held in August that focuses on LA’s African-American, Hispanic and other ethnic cultures and neighbourhoods, through music, dance, theatre, film and art. The American Film Institute, 2021 North Western Avenue (tel: (323) 856 7600; website: www.afi.com), holds annual film and video festivals in October. The LA Independent Film Festival takes place in April. The Shakespeare Festival/LA is held annually in July. The Cinco de Mayo (5 May) celebrations on Olvera Street highlight LA’s Mexican heritage with mariachi music and folk dancing. Also in May is the Venice Art Walk, with art exhibitions and music.

Literary Notes: Los Angeles has inspired many writers and served as the setting for their books and novels. Nathanael West (1903-40) lived in Hollywood from 1933. His novel The Day of the Locust (1939) is considered one of the best about Los Angeles. The Loved One (1948) by Evelyn Waugh and After Many a Summer Dies the Swan (1938) by Aldous Huxley were both set in LA. F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Last Tycoon (1941-), his final unfinished masterpiece, was also set in LA.

LA has attracted many detective writers over the years. The original, Raymond Chandler (1888-1959), lived in LA, and his character, Philip Marlowe, explores its seamier side in the 1930s, in such novels as The Big Sleep (1939) and Farewell My Lovely (1940). Raymond Chandler’s Los Angeles by Elizabeth Ward and Alain Silver is an enlightening look at the author’s relationship with the city. Another detective writer James Ellroy was born in LA in 1948 and the city inspired his LA Quartet of novels – Clandestine (1982), Black Dahlia (1987), LA Confidential (1990) and White Jazz (1992). William Harrington created another LA detective, Columbo (not from TV). Some novels in the series include The Helter Skelter Murders (1994), The Hoffa Connection (1995) and The Game Show Killers (1996).

Other novels about LA include Joan Didion’s Play It As It Lays (1970), Alison Lurie’s The Nowhere City (1965), Walter Mosley’s Black Betty (1994) and William Penn’s The Absence of Angels (1995).

Nightlife

The ‘Entertainment Capital of the World’ has a range of nightlife – nightclubs, cabarets, jazz, rock, blues and country and western can all be found somewhere in town. Clubs offer a mix of live bands and recorded music on different nights of the week. Comedy clubs are also big in LA.

Sunset Boulevard (with its famous ‘Sunset Strip’) still boasts some of the city’s most famous clubs but is by no means the only hotspot. Other good nightlife areas are Santa Monica, especially along Third Street Promenade; Hollywood and West Hollywood, the latter a centre for gay nightlife. Pine Avenue in Long Beach and Pasadena’s Old Town also have a good number of jazz clubs and other night spots. Admission prices for clubs and live music vary widely according to the entertainment. Entertainment listings can be found in LA Weekly (website: www.laweekly.com) and New Times (website: www.newtimesla.com), both free papers distributed around town. A good online hotel and dining reference is Los Angeles City Search (website: http://losangeles.citysearch.com). Because of LA liquor laws, bars stop serving at 0200. The minimum drinking age is 21 years and you should carry photo ID at all times as you may not even be allowed in a venue without it. There is no smoking inside any public place in Los Angeles and this includes bars and nightclubs. However, many offer outdoor areas where smoking is permitted.

Bars: Starting with the Sunset Strip, Bar Marmont, 8171 West Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, next to its famous hotel, Chateau Marmont, is a small and intimate bar with a Bohemian feel and a favourite with celebrities. The SkyBar, at the Philippe Starck-designed Mondrian Hotel, 8440 Sunset Boulevard, is a very smart spot for LA’s beautiful people and has a great view as well as the glamorous look of this hotel chain. Another hotel bar, The Standard, 8300 Sunset Boulevard, is slightly less difficult to get into, but equally popular and stylish. Still on Sunset, make sure you stop off at number 8358, the Argyle Hotel, a splendid 1920s building, whose authentic Art Deco lounge bar extends to the pool area complete with statues of pink flamingos. The Cat'N Fiddle is an English-style bar with courtyard and fountain, at 6530 Sunset Boulevard. Two other good choices include Spider Club at 1737 Vine Street and the Velvet Margarita Room Cantina, a late night trendy Mexican lounge, 1612 North Cahuenga Boulevard, both in Hollywood.

For LA gay life, try any bar along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, including: the reliable Gold Coast at number 8228, the Goth/indie Parlour Club at number 7702, which features themed nights, Peanuts at 7969, which has a cool bordello decor, or the crazy Fubar at number 7994, with drag queens and bingo nights. Lesbians in this boys’ paradise have Palms, at 8572, or the friendly Normandie Rooms, at number 8737. For a mixed, hipper crowd, try Akbar, 4356 West Sunset Boulevard.

For fans of the film Swingers, it is worth making the trek to Los Feliz, where the Dresden Room, 1760 North Vermont Avenue, all white leather upholstery and cork walls, is good for sipping cocktails while listening to the loungey crooning of Marty and Elayne.

The Observation Bar, aboard the RMS Queen Mary in Long Beach, is an Art Deco joy – a great place for a romantic martini while the sun sets. In the same area, the Rock Bottom Brewery, 1 Pine Avenue, is a good place to try handmade beers brewed on the premises. Downtown, the best views of the skyscrapers can be had from the revolving cocktail bar, BonaVista at Westin Bonaventure Hotel, 404 South Figueroa Street. With souvenir glasses, floor to ceiling windows and piped music, it’s all very 1980s but hard to beat. Also Downtown, The Roof Bar at The Standard, 550 South Flower Street, is a very stylish place to check out the skyscrapers.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Los Angeles.

Clubs: The eclectic Viper Room, 8852 Sunset Boulevard, owned by Johnny Depp, is a small, dark, hip hangout for rock musicians and groupies, although its club nights tend to be more funk and disco. River Phoenix died there in 1993 of a drug-induced heart failure.

In Santa Monica, Gotham Hall, 1431 Third Street Promenade, with its clubby look and popular billiards hall, is populated by pretty boys and girls. The sophisticated Club Cohiba part of Mum’s Restaurant, 110 East Broadway, Long Beach, features a Cigar and Billiard Room, a Martini Lounge and a Roof Top Terrace with live salsa on Fridays and Saturdays. Swing-dancing is making a comeback in LA and the Derby, 4500 Los Feliz Boulevard, is the best place to jive – also featured in the film Swingers.

LA is getting a dance club scene, as international DJs start to play there more and more. In the middle of Hollywood, Blue, 1642 North Las Palmas Avenue, which looks like a haunted mansion, is popular on its techno night (Fridays) and has an outdoor smoking area. For cool decor, Sugar, 814 Broadway, in Santa Monica, is a good place to go – check out the glass toilets (with blue lights for boys and pink for girls). For serious style, long queues and sexy dancing (including semi-naked dancers on glass-encased podiums), try Deep, 1707 Vine Street, on the corner of Hollywood and Vine. Run by the same man (Ivan Kane) as Deep is the new Forty Deuce, 5574 Melrose Avenue, a sultry cabaret-style lounge-bar, complete with burlesque. A bit further out in Santa Monica, but equally good, is The Space, at 2020 Wilshire Boulevard.

For gay clubs, again check out Santa Monica Boulevard. The biggest are probably Rage, at number 8911, and Circus Disco, at 6655, and Micky’s, at 8857.

Comedy: The Comedy Store, 8433 West Sunset Boulevard, is a good starting point as it offers three rooms, which offer a variety of acts, from mainstream to fledgling. In the past, it has seen the arrival of people like Robin Williams, David Letterman, Whoopi Goldberg and Gary Shandling. The Laugh Factory, 8001 West Sunset Boulevard, is a smaller venue where you may see famous names, like Jerry Seinfeld or Rodney Dangerfield, testing out their routines. The Improvisation, 8162 Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood is another premier venue.

Live music: The House of Blues, 8430 Sunset Boulevard, features top blues and folk names. It is also committed to hosting rap and hip hop artists – other venues and promoters have tended to shy away from this in more recent years. Harvelle’s, 1432 Fourth Street, in Santa Monica is another good spot for blues.

Top jazz entertainers perform at the packed Catalina Bar & Grill, 6725 Sunset Boulevard, (tel: (323) 466 2210; website: www.catalinajazzclub.com). Booking is essential. Another good spot for jazz is Lunaria Restaurant & Jazz Bar, 10351 Santa Monica Boulevard.

Two venerable rock clubs, hosting fairly mainstream acts, are The Roxy and Whisky A Go-Go at 9009 and 8901 Sunset Boulevard. The Staples Center, 1111 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 742 7340 or (877) 305 1111; website: www.staplescenter.com), is the venue for mega-concerts and events, such as the Grammy Awards.

City Statistics

Location: California, western United States.
Country dialling code: 1 (also required within America, as well as the city code, when dialling from one city code to another). Metropolitan city codes include 213, 310, 323, 562, 626, 818, 909 and 949.
Population: 3.8 million (city); 9.8 million (Los Angeles County); 17 million (Los Angeles Five-County Area) (2002)
Ethnic mix: 31.1% white, 44.6% Hispanic, 9.5% African-American, 12% Asian/Pacific Islander, 2.8% other (including American Indian).
Time zone: GMT - 8 (GMT -7 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110 volts AC; standard two-pin plugs are used.
Average January temp: 14C (57F).
Average July temp: 23C (73F).
Annual rainfall: 375mm (14.84 inches).

Special Events

Tournament of Roses Parade and Rosebowl football game, 1 Jan, Pasadena
Greater Los Angeles Auto Show, 7-16 Jan, Los Angeles Convention Center
Tour of the Tall Ships, 28 Jan – 13 Feb, Marina del Rey
106th Annual Golden Dragon Parade, 12 Feb, Chinatown
XX LA Marathon, 6 Mar
Toyota Grand Prix, 8-10 Apr, Long Beach
Cinco de Mayo, 5 May, Downtown
16th Annual Mariachi USA Festival, 18 Jun, Hollywood Bowl
Annual In-Water Boat Show, 22-25 Jun, Marina Del Rey
Lotus Festival (celebration of Asian culture), Jul, Echo Park
Independence Day (celebrations), 4 Jul, throughout the city
Los Angeles Festival, 39th Annual Watts Summer Festival and Annual Los Angeles African Marketplace and Cultural Fare, Aug, throughout the city
Los Angeles County Fair, Sep, Pomona Fairgrounds
Halloween Carnival, 31 Oct, West Hollywood
Doo Dah Parade, Nov, Pasadena
Hollywood Christmas Parade, last week of Nov, Hollywood
Holiday Celebrations, Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2
75cl bottle of beer: US$2
Financial Times newspaper: US$1
36-exposure colour film: US$4-7
City-centre bus ticket: US$1.25
Cinema ticket: US$9-13
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From US$35

1 American Dollar (US$1) = 0.52; C$1.25; A$1.28; 0.77
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005