World City Guide

Mini Guide of Lima

City Overview

Peru’s capital, Lima, is a vibrant city whose grandeur may be faded but still lives on. Once the heart of Spain’s South American empire – christened by its founders as the ‘City of Kings’ – modern Lima is a huge metropolis crammed with culture and a history that goes back to the Incas and beyond.

Situated halfway down Peru’s desert coastline, Lima looks out on the Pacific Ocean, with the foothills of the Andes at its back. The main square of its historic centre, with its Spanish colonial mansions graced by latticed wooden balconies, was recently declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.

Despite lacking the glamour of Rio or Buenos Aires, Lima has much to offer the sightseer – beautiful churches, museums, pretty seaside suburbs and a few remaining Inca ruins – but is also a gateway to the marvels of Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca and the Amazon jungle. However, the primary sense of Lima that visitors get from walking around the city is that much of the population is merely surviving, scraping by in a variety of ingenious ways. Even in the richest districts, signs of poverty are never far away. In the main business district, it is not uncommon to see bailiffs strip a failed business of its belongings, piling unwanted items into a sorry heap on the pavement, while businesspeople, caught in traffic, are entertained by jugglers and fire-eaters or accosted by dozens of street-sellers offering paper napkins, plastic coat hangers and even the odd fake gold Rolex. The hardship of life in Lima may account for the Limeos’ philosophical outlook and their black sense of humour. In a city where political and financial turmoil is the norm, it does not do to take things too seriously. A popular belief in miracles and religious mysteries must also help.

Lima is a capital that has outgrown its boundaries. A town originally designed for tens of thousands now accommodates nearly eight million – one third of the country lives here. As Peru’s economic powerhouse, Lima attracts over one thousand newcomers from the provinces, every week, drawn by the dream of finding work and relative security. Shantytowns continue to grow outside the city and the upper classes have abandoned the city centre for the seaside suburbs of Miraflores or San Isidro. With their skyscrapers and international banks, these are now the main business centres, while the nearby Barranco is a hub of Lima nightlife.

Lima’s glory days as the centre of Spain’s South American empire may be over but the city remains a magnet for regional leaders and political summits. President George W. Bush and Britain’s Prince Andrew are the latest in a list of recent illustrious visitors to the Peruvian capital. However, modern Lima is a long way from the city founded by Francisco Pizarro, the Conquistador who seized the ‘Land of the Incas’ for Spain, in 1535. Building near the site of ancient settlements – two pre-Inca temples (huaca) are still standing in San Isidro and Miraflores – it proved perfect for a colonial capital, with its large and fertile river valley, a natural harbour nearby and fairly easy access to the Andes. As the centre of a Spanish viceroyalty that spanned Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, Lima was the most important South American capital, up until the 19th century. Much Andean silver passed through Lima on its way to Spain and the wealth generated paid for the colonial mansions, the geometric street layout and Baroque churches whose altars still glisten with silver.

The climate from May until November can be dismal, as a grey sea mist or garua – popularly known as the ‘belly of the donkey’ – dominates the skies. The summer months, the best time to visit, are blessed with a hazy heat. Limeos head to the beach for the weekend, to enjoy sun, sea and ceviche – raw fish marinated in lime juice, washed down with a famous pisco sour, a potent cocktail of brandy-like pisco, lime juice, syrup and egg whites.

Getting There By Air

Jorge Chavez International Airport (LIM)
Tel: (01) 575 0912 or 1434 or 1712, for international or 5529, for local.
Website: www.lap.com.pe

Situated 16km (ten miles) northwest of Lima, Jorge Chavez International Airport is the international hub for flights to Peru and other Andean countries, from North America and several European capitals, except London. International arrivals and departures total about 13,300 annually. The airport was sold to a Frankfurt airport-led consortium in early 2001.

Major airlines: Peru’s domestic airlines include Aero Condor (tel: (01) 441 1354; website: www.aerocondor.com.pe), Lan Per (tel: (01) 213 8200; website: www.lanperu.com) and Aerolineas (tel: (01) 213 7000; website: www.grupotaca.com.pe). These all offer limited international flights. There are no direct flights from London but competitive options are available with KLM via Amsterdam and Iberia via Madrid. Alternatively, there are daily British Airways flights to Miami, which connect with American Airlines or United Airlines services to Lima. Other major airlines include Aeroflot, Air Canada, Air France, Alitalia, Continental and Mexicana.

Approximate flight times to Lima: From London (via Miami) is 12 hours; from New York is 8 hours; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; from Toronto is 12 hours and from Sydney is 20 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include three banks, two 24-hour bureaux de change in international arrivals, duty-free shops in the departure lounge, several ATMs, cafs and restaurants on the second level, magazine kiosks and shops. Baggage lockers cost PEN3.60/US$1 per hour or PEN10.85/US$3 per day. A tourist booth to help visitors with hotel reservations, a post office and car hire operators, including Avis, Budget and Hertz, are also available.

Business facilities: Business-class travellers have access to four different executive and VIP lounges.

Arrival/departure tax: There is a PEN90.50/US$25 departure tax for all international flights. For national flights, the departure tax is PEN10.84/US$3. Tax is payable in either US Dollars or Peruvian Soles, in cash or travellers cheques.

Transport to the city: Taxi is the easiest means of transport from the airport to the city centre (journey time – 20-30 minutes). Official taxis can be ordered from the desk outside arrivals. These cost PEN36/US$10 to the city centre (PEN54/US$15 at night) or PEN54/US$15 to Miraflores. A cheaper alternative for arriving tourists is to take an unlicensed taxi from one of the dozens waiting inside the airport gates. This safe transport option will cost around PEN29/US$8 to the centre and PEN36/US$10 to San Isidro or Miraflores. Taxis do not have meters, so prices must be fixed in advance. The Transhotel Airport Express (tel: (01) 446 9872) runs every 20-30 minutes, approximately 0600-0100, to Miraflores from the national exit and costs PEN36/US$10 (journey time – 30 minutes). Local buses also run between the airport and the city centre.

Getting There By Water

Lima’s main port is Callao, located 15km (9 miles) west of the city. The Peru port authority, Empresa Nacional de Puertos del Per – ENAPU, Avenida Chalaca Guard (tel: (01) 299 210 or 429 9210; fax: (1) 465 3272), manages the port. Although it is primarily used for freight and provides no passenger facilities, Callao is occasionally used by some cruise ships. However, the days when well heeled travellers arrived from Europe or North America by ship have all but disappeared.

Boat services: Radisson Seven Seas Cruises (tel: (800) 477 7500 or (877) 505 5370; website: www.rssc.com) operates cruises to Lima from Los Angeles and Sydney.

Transport to the city: Connected to Lima by four highways, the city centre is approximately 30 minutes’ drive from Callao. Taxis and combis are usually available.

Getting There By Road

Driving in Peru can be hazardous, due to reckless driving and the state of the roads, many of which are dirt tracks. Peru has more than 70,000km (18,641 miles) of roads, of which only just over a fifth are national highways. Roads are designated by a Route and a number. The main roads running the length of the country are the Pan-American Highway (north–south), which is the main artery linking the towns along Peru's coast, and the Marginal Jungle Highway, which runs from the northern jungle almost to the Bolivian border. From the coast, heading inland, is the Central Highway, which starts in Lima and runs up to the central highlands down to the Chanchamayo jungle valley. Much of the Pan-American Highway that connects Ecuador to Chile via Peru’s coastal desert is in good condition, as are the main routes into the Andes.

Several roads are tolled, including many on the Pan-American Highway between Tumbes and Lima, Pativilca–Huaraz, Lima–Pucusana and the highway around Lima. Toll fees vary from PEN3.60/US$1 to PEN10.85/US$3. The drive from Ecuador to Chile costs around PEN65/US$18. Motorcycles are exempt from tolls. Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on motorways and vary on smaller roads vary – either 80kph (50mph) or 45kph (28mph). Even so, few Peruvians seem to stick to these limits. Wearing seatbelts is mandatory in certain areas of Lima. It is easier for drivers to always wear seatbelts, as the fine for not wearing one in required places is PEN253/US$70. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. On-the-spot fines, which start from PEN289/US$80, are applied for drink-driving, speeding and other traffic offences, such as driving through a red light.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. To enter Peru in a private vehicle, the driver needs an International Driving Permit, proof of customs payment (libreta de pago por la aduana) and a registration document in the name of the driver. Proof of insurance – best arranged in the visitor’s home country – is also needed. A non-extendable 90-day transit permit (Formulario 015) is available at land borders and allows travellers to bring a vehicle into Peru. There is no charge.

The Touring and Automobile Club of Peru, Calle Cesar Vallejo 699, Lince (tel: (01) 441 0345), with offices in most provincial cities, is helpful.

Emergency breakdown services
There is no general emergency breakdown number in Peru. Most rental agencies have breakdown arrangements agreed with a particular insurance company.

Routes to the city: The main road artery of Peru, the Pan-American Highway, runs the length of Peru’s coastline. Most travellers choose to fly to other provincial capitals. Routes along the Pan-American Highway include Nazca (famous for its mysterious desert lines), Arequipa and Tumbes in the north, near the border with Ecuador. Cusco is reached by taking the Pan-American Highway south as far as Pisco, then inland along Route 24 to Ayacucho, then Route 3 to Cusco via Abancay. Puno is reached on the Pan-American Highway, south to Arequipa then following the scrappy and circuitous Route 3 to Puno and Lake Titicaca.

Driving times to Lima: From Cusco – 24 hours; Puno – 24 hours; Arequipa – 14 hours; Nazca – 6 hours

Coach services: Ormeno, Avenida Javier Prado Este 1059, La Victoria (tel: (01) 472 1710; fax: (01) 470 5454), is one of the few reliable bus companies, offering regular weekly services to Bogota (journey time – 80 hours), Quito (journey time – 30 hours) and Santiago (journey time – 54 hours). Many intercity buses leave from one of the main bus terminals between the Hotel Sheraton and Parque Universitario in the centre, or in the district of La Victoria along Avenida 28 de Julio and Prolongacion Huanuco. Other bus stations and companies are located in the suburbs. Cruz del Sur, Avenida Javier Prado 1109, San Isidro (tel: (01) 431 5125), offers good, regular services to Cusco, Puno and Arequipa and other major destinations.

Getting There By Rail

Enafer (tel: (01) 428 9440 or 427 6620) is the Peruvian national railway, operating from Los Desamparados railway station, behind the Government Palace, Jiron Ancash 207. There are currently no frequent passenger trains to and from Lima. However, after eight years of suspension, due to terrorist activity in the country, the spectacular service that runs between Huancayo in the Andes and central Lima was restored in July 1998.

Rail services: The monthly train to Huancayo leaves from Los Desamparados railway station, on a 591km (367-mile) journey, passing 27 stations, crossing 57 bridges and passing through 67 tunnels before reaching Huancayo (journey time – 12 hours). Services operate between April and November, on the last weekend of each month (Friday 0740), returning on Sunday. The cost of a return ticket is approximately PEN70, which includes a meal.

Transport to the city: Los Desamparados is located in the heart of the city, just off the central square, Plaza de Armas.

Getting Around

Public Transport
With no urban train system in Lima, the cheapest and most colourful way to get around is to take a municipal bus, a privately owned microbus or a collective minibus (known as a combi or colectivo). The distances between the historic centre and suburbs, such as Miraflores or Barranco, make walking difficult.

Buses cover every part of the city and most services run between 0600 and 2300 (some until 0100). There is no specific bus service provider, however, the Municipality of Lima (tel: (01) 427 6080) is responsible for overseeing transport in the city. Municipal buses and microbuses charge a flat rate of approximately PEN1.50/US$0.40. Tickets are purchased from the driver. The combis – small vans converted for passenger use – are faster and cover the main routes but charge slightly more (PEN2.20/US$0.60) and have a poor safety record.

Taxis
Taxis can be hailed from the street. These don’t have meters, so the fare should be agreed before the prospective passenger gets in. Street taxis usually have a red and white sticker in the window – some are private cars being used to generate extra income. There are also some 24-hour licensed companies that accept advance reservations, such as Moli Taxi (tel: (01) 479 0030; fax: (01) 479 0030). It is a good idea for passengers to lock their doors when going through rough areas. If travelling as a single woman at night, an officially registered taxi probably is the safest option. Licensed taxis are usually yellow and will cost more than unlicensed taxis.

A trip to the city centre from Miraflores costs about PEN7-11/US$2-3 and to the Gold Museum about PEN14.50/US$4. Licensed taxis charge approximately PEN36-43.50/US$10-12 to the airport. Tips are not expected.

Limousines
ALF Limousine (tel: (01) 446 8368) hires out Lincoln Limousines. Rates are PEN323/US$90 for two hours, PEN610/US$170 for four hours and PEN897/US$250 for six hours and include champagne and a chauffeur.

Driving in the City
Driving around Lima is a stressful experience, mainly because traffic moves at terrifying speeds and does not respect the road lanes. Traffic lanes and even traffic lights also seem to mean very little to these impatient drivers, who use their horns at every opportunity. One tip for drivers is to keep a wide berth between cars, as shunts from behind are extremely common and often costly.

There is 24-hour parking available in most parts of the city – usually an open-air yard (playa). Rates are usually about PEN2/US$0.60 per hour. Parking meters are common in the suburbs of Miraflores and San Isidro, costing approximately PEN1/US$0.30 per half-hour.

Car Hire
Most car hire companies have offices at the airport, where everything can be arranged and the car picked up and dropped off. Drivers must be at least 23-25 years old. A valid driver's licence, identification and a credit card are required. The insurance policy may cover only minor damage and not major accidents. Extra cover, for approximately PEN20/US$6 per day, is usually available.

The three main companies are Avis, Avenida Javier Prado Este 5233 (tel: (01) 434 1111; website: www.avisperu.com), Budget, Avenida Canaval y Moreyra 569, San Isidro (tel: (01) 442 8706; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz, Jiron Cantuarias 160, Miraflores (tel: (01) 445 5716; website: www.hertz.com). Car hire is expensive, reflecting the high costs of driving and accident rates. Hire of a small car costs approximately PEN1084/US$300 per week.

Bicycle Hire
With accidents an everyday occurrence on Peru’s anarchic road system, cycling in the Lima area is rare and bike hire is not readily available.

Business

Business Profile
Lima is a microcosm of the country at large, reflecting the vast divide between Peru’s different classes and the ways they make a living. The ‘economic powerhouse’ created by Alberto Fujimori’s government, in the early 1990s, has since slowed to a crawl and has only highlighted the widening gap between rich and poor. Some 54% of the 25-million population on average live on PEN7/US$2 or less per day.

Most business in Lima is in the informal sector, which includes jobs such as shoe polishing, selling fruit or mending old radios, to mention a few. A fire in an unlicensed firework shop that ripped through a central commercial district, in December 2001, killing over 300 people, was a horrifying reminder of the lack of safety measures in many of these informal businesses. In the formal sector, ex-president Alberto Fujimori passed several economic measures in the early 1990s, in order to liberate the market, open it to foreign firms and revamp the PEN190/US$53-billion economy. A series of multimillion-Dollar privatisations, topped by the PEN7/US$2-billion sale of the telephone network to Spain’s Telefonica, created a boom in the financial markets. The new prosperity prompted massive investment in new buildings, particularly in San Isidro and Miraflores, the main business and commercial centres respectively. It also sparked a rush of foreign interest, led by US giants such as Citibank and McDonalds, hoping to cash in on the boom. Direct foreign investment was nearly PEN36/US$10 billion in 2001.

Profiting from its coastal location, Lima has been the centre for Peru’s most lucrative industries. Exporters of guano (bird droppings transformed into fertiliser) brought much wealth to the city, as did the sugar and cotton that was grown in wealthy estates along the coast. Oil production also contributed to the city’s wellbeing. While these industries have dwindled, fishing continues to play a key role, particularly the production of fishmeal, which remains one of the country’s top export earners. Exports totalled PEN25/US$7 billion in 2001. In terms of gross domestic product, fishing and mining were the biggest growth areas in 2001, followed by agriculture and electricity production. Tourism has recently become a highly important motor of the economy. In particular, the government of Alejandro Toledo is trying to promote the Amazon jungle as a centre for eco-tourism, in order to broaden Peru’s appeal beyond Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca.

Quality of life in Lima ranges from dire to extremely good. The average per capita annual wage for an ordinary worker is approximately PEN5400/US$1500 but often much less, while a successful banker could expect to make approximately PEN108,400/US$30,000. Unemployment in the capital stands at around 10%, above the national average of 8%.

The Lima Chamber of Commerce (website: www.camaralima.org.pe) is a useful point of contact for foreign business visitors.

Business Etiquette
A distinctly old-fashioned sense of politesse lingers in the way the Limeos do business. Nothing is rushed and the greeting ritual can seem almost as important as the actual meeting process. Men shake hands, while women or men meeting other women often greet each other with a kiss. Business cards are usually exchanged before a meeting begins. Breakfast meetings and brunch are common but lunch remains an important way to entertain contacts. Latin Americans are careful about their clothes and overall appearance and appreciate it when visitors are equally well turned-out. Despite a reputation for Latin time keeping, Limeos expect visitors to make appointments and to stick to them.

A business trip that spans several days is likely to include an invitation for drinks or dinner at the house of a colleague. Visitors should arrive with a small gift – a bottle of wine or flowers. As a mark of respect, Peruvians associates should be addressed as Usted (the polite form of tu) unless they indicate otherwise. Many Peruvian businesspeople speak English but a foreigner should make the effort to try and speak Spanish. Normal business hours are 0900-1700.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Lima’s sheer size often bewilders visitors but many of the city’s museums, churches and colonial treasures are conveniently located in the historic centre. In the old days, the centre was filthy and overcrowded, however, a recent campaign to clean up the streets has paid dividends. Now the centre has much to delight sightseers.

Tours usually start in Plaza de Armas, which was the city’s main meeting point and marketplace. Around four hundred years ago, bullfights were held in this square – the current bullring is a ten-minute walk away. Dominating the square is the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace). It stands on the site of the original palace built by Lima’s founder Pizarro. Also on the main square is the Cathedral, rebuilt in 1758, after an earthquake destroyed the original building. Pizarro’s daughter helped pay for the original cathedral, on condition that her father was buried in the crypt. Nearby, the Pasaje Nicolas de Ribera el Viejo sports elegant cafs, while the Palacio Torre Tagle, with its Moorish-influenced wooden balconies, is one of the city’s most beautiful Spanish colonial mansions. A few blocks east lies Plaza Bolivar, where the fascinating Museo de la Inquisicion (Spanish Inquisition Museum) is located. Other ‘musts’ include the Museo de la Nacion, for an overview of Peru’s archaeological riches and the Museo de Oro (Gold Museum), with its collection of stunning gold artefacts.

Away from the centre lie the fashionable seaside suburbs of Miraflores and San Isidro, while the suburb of Barranco offers lively, bohemian bars. Miraflores even has its own US-style shopping mall, Larco Mar, with ten-pin bowling, a multiplex cinema, snack bars, restaurants, discos and live music. The mall is situated right on the cliffs overlooking the sea and publishes a full list of its attractions online (website: www.larcomar.com).

Tourist Information
PromPeru
Edificio Mitinci, Calle Uno, 13th and 14th floors, San Isidro
Tel: (01) 224 3279 or 3125 or 3271. Fax: (01) 224 3323.
E-mail: postmaster@promperu.gob.pe
Website: www.rcp.net.pe/promperu/
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800.

Also very helpful are The South American Explorers Club, Avenida Republica de Portugal 146, Brea (website: www.saexplorers.org), and Fertur Peru, Jiron Junin 211, Plaza de Armas.

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Lima.

Key Attractions

Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor (Main Square)
The very centre of the capital and the home of government, the impressive Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor is the logical starting point for any visit to the historic centre. With its gardens, old street lamps and bronze fountain, the square is a picture of colonial elegance and testimony to the money lavished upon its restoration over the last five years. Dominating the north side of the square is the opulent Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), which stands on the site of the original palace built by the Conquistadors. During the days when Peru was a Spanish colony, the Palacio de Gobierno was the official residency of the king’s representative. These days, the president of the republic occupies it. The building was completely rebuilt in 1938. The main attraction is the changing of the guard, which takes place at 1145 and 1745, when palace guards, dressed in scarlet and blue uniforms, goosestep round the main courtyard.

The Cathedral, an example of Spanish Baroque, stands on the site of two previous churches. The first was built in 1550, although was replaced nearly a hundred years later, when a larger church was required. A massive earthquake then destroyed this building in 1746. The present cathedral, built a few years later, is a perfect copy of its predecessor. The interior is distinguished by its high nave, three aisles and carved wooden stalls. The walls bear the coats of arms of Lima and Pizarro. The Museo de Arte Religioso (Religious Art Museum) in the Cathedral contains icons and woodcarvings. Guided tours in English are available.

To the left side of the Cathedral stands the beautiful modern replica of the Archbishop’s Palace, with its Moorish wooden balcony. Also on the square is the impressive Municipalidad de Lima (Town Hall), which houses a selection of Peruvian paintings.

Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor
Transport: Buses marked Avenida Tacna, then a four-block walk.

Palacio de Gobierno
Tel: (01) 427 6732 (Edificio Palacio).
Opening hours: By arrangement.
Admission: Free; free guided tours available by arrangement or through agents.

Cathedral/Museo de Arte Religioso
Tel: (01) 427 9647.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1630, Sat 1000-1530.
Admission: PEN14.50/US$4.

Municipalidad de Lima
Tel: (01) 427 6080.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1300; tours by arrangement.
Admission: PEN4.50/US$1.20.

Palacio Torre Tagle
Two blocks east of Plaza Mayor stands the jewel of the city’s colonial architecture, the Palacio Torre Tagle. The mansion was built in 1735, for Don Jos Torre Tagle y Bracho, who received the title First Marquis of Torre Tagle, from King Charles V of Spain. The faade boasts two carved wooden balconies. The family house has beautiful staterooms and opulent staircases, while the decorative azulejos (tiling) shows a mixture of Spanish and Moorish influences. The highlight, however, is a gilded 16th-century carriage. The government took the house over in 1918 and it remains the home of the Foreign Ministry. Visitors can only enter the courtyards.

Palacio Torre Tagle
Jiron Ucayali 363
Tel: (01) 311 2400.
Transport: Buses marked Avenida Abancay, then a one-block walk.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700; tours by arrangement.
Admission: Free.

Museo de la Inquisicion (Spanish Inquisition Museum)
The Museo de la Inquisicion (Spanish Inquisition Museum) faces Plaza Bolivar, near the Congress building. In the main hall, the ceiling is made of mahogany carved into beautiful abstract forms. The infamous Court of the Inquisition was first held here in the late 16th century. In the basement are examples of the torture instruments used by the Inquisitors. Behind the museum is Lima’s Chinatown, a maze of grubby streets dominated by exotic sights and smells. The zone is entered through a decorative Chinese-style gateway. Here are some of Lima’s best and cheapest Chifas (Chinese restaurants). Peru’s Chinese community is now well established, a century or more after the first Chinese immigrants arrived as economic refugees to seek farm work on the coast.

Museo del Congreso y Antigua Tribunal la Inquisicion
Jiron Junn 548
Tel: (01) 427 0635. Fax: (01) 427 0635.
Website: www.congreso.gob.pe/museo.htm
Transport: Buses marked Avenida Abancay.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.
Admission: Free.

El Convento de los Descalzos (The Convent of the Shoeless)
Behind the Palacio de Gobierno is the rundown Rimac area. Here visitors can stroll along the Alameda de los Descalzos, a walkway designed by the city’s ‘Fathers’ in the 17th century. At the end of the Almeda is a Franciscan monastery, El Convento de los Descalzos (The Convent of the Shoeless Ones), which gets its name from the Franciscan friars’ habit of going about barefoot. The Convent was founded in 1592 and its cloisters contain hundreds of Peruvian religious paintings.

El Convento de los Descalzos
Alameda de los Descalzos
Tel: (01) 481 0441.
Transport: Some buses marked Rimac – passengers should check with the driver.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1300 and 1500-1800.
Admission: PEN5.50/US$1.50.

Museo de la Nacion (National Museum)
The Museo de la Nacion, a large concrete building in the suburb of San Borja, is the country’s main anthropological and archaeological museum with exhibits that highlight Peru’s history stretching back to its earliest tribal cultures. Exhibits have explanations in English and include displays of traditional peasant costumes from around Peru.

21st block of Avenida Javier Prado
Tel: (01) 476 9933 or 9897.
Website: www.cosapi.com.pe/instituciones/museonac
Transport: Bus marked Javier Prado/Aviacion.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700.
Admission: PEN7/US$2 (including exhibitions).

Museo de Oro (Gold Museum)
The highly recommended Museo de Oro is housed in a Fort Knox-like building, set back from the street and surrounded by trees, in the Monterrico suburb. Here, the loot that made Peru famous and Spain fabulously wealthy is on display. Upstairs are weapons and uniforms to remind the visitor of Peru’s violent past. Downstairs are hundreds of dazzling gold and silver artefacts from pre-Conquest to colonial times, including a yellow-feathered Inca poncho and a skull sporting teeth made of pink quartz.

Alonso de Molina, Monterrico
Tel: (01) 345 1291 or 1292 or 435 2917.
Transport: From junction Avenida Javier Prado/Avenida Aviacion, bus or colectivo to Avenida Angamos, then microbus 72 or colectivo to Centro Commercial shopping centre, then short walk.
Opening hours: Daily 1200-1900.
Admission: PEN20/US$6.

Further Distractions

Cerro San Cristobal
Dwarfing houses in the Rimac district, is the volcano-shaped hillside of Cerro San Cristobal. On a clear day, it affords great views of the sprawling city, all the way to the ocean and to the foothills of the Andes. The summit is topped by a huge cross, which shines over the town at night. At the foot of the cross, people leave petitions and candles. There is a caf at the summit. Due to its reputation for muggings, a taxi to the summit is recommended. A round trip from the city centre costs about PEN29/US$8. There is a bus service up to the top of the hillside, called Urbanito, which costs around PEN7/US$2.

Cerro San Cristobal, Rimac
Transport: Urbanito bus service.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Miraflores and Barranco
One of the main attractions of Lima is its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. In the last century, many of the capital’s richest families built summer houses in the seaside suburbs of Miraflores and Barranco, which were geographically separated from the rest of the city. Miraflores is a perfect base from which to visit the rest of Lima. Parque Kennedy, a pretty tree-lined park, surrounded by pavement cafs, offers a sanctuary from the noise and pollution of the city centre. As well as a large multiplex cinema, Miraflores has a number of excellent shops selling local arts and crafts. When the sun sinks into the ocean, visitors should head for a ‘sundowner’ at the Rosa Nautica, a restaurant that juts into the sea, on its very own pier.

Barranco is where Lima’s party-lovers head to at the weekend, for its hectic nightlife consisting of restaurants, bars and discos for every taste. But after the weekend, a peaceful, family atmosphere returns to the suburb. Many of the large colonial houses built for the city’s richest families remain in use, which is more than can be said for Barranco’s tram system – a beautifully restored tram car stands as a lonely witness to an altogether more sedate and stately chapter in Lima’s history.

Many ‘colectivo’ buses run between the city centre and Miraflores, along Avenida Arequipa, 24 hours a day. Routes are displayed on the windscreen, usually as ‘Larco/Schell/Miraflores’. The main stop for Miraflores is Ricardo Palma, four blocks from Parque Kennedy. Buses also go to Miraflores on the Via Expresa (the fast three-lane express way) and can be caught at Avenida Tacna and Avenida Ugarte. Colectivo buses also run to Barranco from the city centre along Avenida Arequipa, via Miraflores, where travellers must change for a bus marked ‘Barranco’. Some colectivo buses run all the way to Barranco and passengers should ask the driver upon boarding.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Because of the pollution and the enormity of Lima, it is probably best for visitors to avoid lengthy walking tours. These are available but need to be booked on an individual basis, through a good agent such as Lima Tours, Calle Belen 1040 (tel: (01) 424 5110; website: www.limatours.com.pe). It is better for sightseers to restrict a tour to a small area and enjoy stopping off in local cafs for coffee and churros (cylindrical doughnuts). The Municipalidad de Lima (tel: (01) 427 6080, ext. 222; website: www.munlima.gob.pe) organises a number of free, short walking tours every month.

Bus Tours
Private bus tours of the city can be arranged through Lima Tours, Calle Belen 1040 (tel: (01) 424 5110; website: www.limatours.com.pe). These take in the main squares as well as key attractions, such as the cathedral, a colonial mansion and the Miraflores and San Isidro suburbs. Tours depart twice a day, from the city centre. The four-hour tour costs PEN90.50/US$25 per person, including entry tickets and English guide. Another option is the Urbanito (tel: (01) 225 6462) bus, which departs every 20 minutes from the main square. Taking approximately one hour and a half hours, tours are in Spanish only and cost PEN7/US$2.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Pachacamac: When visitors have had their fill of Lima’s various attractions, they can head south for about 30km (48 miles), to visit Pachacamac, the ‘Machu Picchu’ of the pre-Colombian coastal civilisations. When the Spanish invaded Peru, the ancient city was the hub of culture and trade for the whole of the coast. It was also a place of pilgrimage. Tribesmen came to pay tribute to the god Pachacamac – a wooden statue of the god can be found in the site’s museum. Pizarro’s men sacked the city, in search of gold, killing priests and looting the temples. The ruins stand in a circle on the summit of the hill, topped by the Temple of the Sun, a large adobe pyramid. Pachacamac is open daily 0900-1700 and admission costs PEN7/US$2 (including the small museum). Buses marked Pachacamac leave from Paseo Coln (Avenida 9 de Diciembre). Alternatively, tours can be arranged through Lima Tours, Calle Belen 1040 (tel: (01) 424 5110; website: www.limatours.com.pe).

For a Whole Day

Beach towns: One of Lima’s saving graces is its proximity to mile after mile of sandy beaches. The best beaches lie to the south of the city, beyond the ruins of Pachacamac. In summer, they become the sole destination of almost every Limeo who can get away for the weekend. In the winter, visitors will have the beach to themselves. Equally unbeatable is the fresh seafood or ceviche that can be ordered in one of the many ramshackle but surprisingly good restaurants, which stand near the main beach in Punta Hermosa. The town is the haunt of young Peruvian surfers. For families, the nearby beach in the El Silencio bay is a better bet and boasts several seafood restaurants. Another 20km (12 miles) south is the old fishing village of Pucusana. People come to swim and to watch the local fishermen bringing in the day’s catch. Buses that go along the South Pan-American Highway go to both Punta Hermosa and then Pucusana, as they are on the same road. These can be caught from Jiron Montevideo and Jiron Ayacucho in central Lima, or on the Pan-American Highway – where it crosses Avenida Angamos Este – or on the Avenida Javier Prado Este – where it crosses the Pan-American Highway.

Sport

The national drug is football. Limeos are addicted, in their thousands, to the ‘beautiful game’. People paint their faces in the red and white of the flag whenever an international is played at the National Stadium, Avenida Paseo La Republica (tel: (01) 433 4192), in the centre of the city. The local Derby, known as ‘El Clasico’, is between Alianza (website: www.alianzalima.com) and Universitario (website: www.universitario.com), known simply as ‘La U’. Tickets cost PEN11-89.50/US$3-25. Universitario are higher up the Peru football league table, and generally hovers between the first and second place, while Alianza Lima settles in at fifth. The football-only daily tabloid newspaper, Libero (website: www.libero.com.pe) provides information on the teams and matches.

Lima also boasts an impressive bullring, Plaza de Acho, Jiron Hualgayoc 332, just behind Plaza Mayor. Built in 1766, once the biggest in Latin America, the ring is in use between late October and early December. The bloody contests are usually on Sunday or holidays. Tickets cost PEN54-358.50/US$15-100, depending on whether seats are in the shade or not.

Tickets for both football and bullfighting are available for purchase from Teleticket (tel: (01) 242 2823).

Fitness centres: One of the better fitness centres in Lima is Gym Paradise, Avenida Prolongacion Primavera 1553, Monterrico (tel: (01) 437 8629). The gym, which offers spinning, weight training, step classes, sauna, Tae-Bo, salsa and exercise machines, charges PEN161.50/US$ per month, plus a PEN18/US$5 joining charge. Weekly rates are PEN54/US$15 for one week or PEN89.50/US$25 for two weeks. Other fitness centres are listed in the yellow ages and a good hotel will usually have its own gym with some equipment.

Golf: Golf courses in Lima are not available to non-members. Some luxury hotels have access to golf courses. For PEN394.50/US$110 per day, guests of the five-star Best Western Golf Los Incas hotel have access to the Golf Las Incas course and clubhouse, Avenida Cerros de Camacho 500, Monterrico, in Surco (tel: (01) 437 7701; fax: (01) 435 4727).

Surfing: Information, equipment, boards and accessories are available at O’Neills, Avenida Santa Cruz 851, Miraflores (tel: (01) 242 4486). Information on Lima's best surfing beaches is available online (website: www.wannasurf.com – in the ‘Peru’ section).

Tennis: The best, most central outdoor courts are to be found at Club Las Terrazas, Malecon 28 de Julio 390, Miraflores (tel: (01) 446 2620 or 65). The private club has several courts that can be used by non-members at PEN18/US$5 per hour (daily 0700-1800).

Shopping

Lima is a good place to buy traditional Peruvian handicrafts. Miraflores has several handicraft shops around Avenida La Paz or in the large emporia on Avenida Petit Thouars 53-54, a block from the Miraflores roundabout. One of the best is Kuntur Wasi, Calle Ocharan 182, which has an English-speaking owner. Equally good is Antisuyo, Javier Tacna 460, Miraflores, an indigenous cooperative that sells artefacts from all over Peru. A good place for fine crafts and indigenous painting is Agua y Tierra, Javier Diez Canseco 298, Miraflores. Alpaca III, Avenida Larco 671, Miraflores, has a fine selection of woven or knitted alpaca goods, as does Royal Alpaca, Centro Commercial, Pasaje El Suche, Avenida La Paz 646, Miraflores, and Inkantations, Avenida Larco 1180, Miraflores. All these shops offer a whole range of silver and gold artefacts, locally made woven textiles, alpaca sweaters, ponchos, rugs, coats and blankets. Prices are similar to those paid in the Andes. Lima also specialises in arpilleras, native pictures of typical Peruvian life, made by local women. Miraflores has a daily crafts market in Parque Kennedy, open 1700-2300. Probably Lima’s biggest arts and crafts market is Feria Artesanal, Avenida La Marina and Avenida Sucre in Pueblo Libre. This market is open daily 1200-2000, sprawling along Avenida La Marina from the sixth block.

For more up-to-date shopping, visitors should head to the new Ripley department store on Parque Kennedy, Miraflores. Lima’s best bookstore, Crisol, can be found in Ovalo Gutierrez, Miraflores. Also in Miraflores, the US-style shopping mall in Miraflores, Larco Mar (website: www.larcomar.com), has ten-pin bowling, a multiplex cinema, snack bars, restaurants, discos and live music. The mall is situated right on the cliffs overlooking the sea. The biggest shopping mall of all, Jockey Plaza, Avenida Prado Este, Surco, is open daily 1100-2100 and has many top designer shops, such as Guess, Benetton and Tommy Hilfiger.

On the whole, shops are open 0930-1230 and 1500-2000. At present there is no way of getting back the 18% sales tax, other than buying goods at the international departure lounge of Jorge Chavez Airport.

Culture

Peruvian culture goes beyond opera houses and theatres. It is part of everyday life, with frequent local festivals colouring the cultural canvass. Painting, dance and song belong to the people and are the way that different regions distinguish themselves. La Candelaria dance troupes of Puno or the marinera dancers from northern Peru, for example, can be seen at peas (dance shows) all over Lima.

Teleticket (tel: (01) 242 2823) is a booking agency that sells tickets for many events. Alternatively, tickets are available from the venue box offices. El Comercio (website: www.elcomercioperu.com.pe) is a daily newspaper with a good listings section. The Que Hacer section of the website has a full list of cultural activities in Lima. The Canal N 24-hour cable news channel (channel eight) has a daily culture show called Sentidos, as well as Agenda, its full listings service. Cultural events and entertainment highlights can also be found online (website: www.peruonline.com).

Music: Peru is on the international circuit for renowned foreign performers and orchestras, often sponsored by foreign cultural organisations. Since the Municipal Theatre burned down in 2000, the National Symphony Orchestra now performs at the Museo de la Nacion, Avenida Javier Prado (tel: (01) 476 9875 or 9897). Opera shows are held at Teatro Segura, Jiron Huancavelica 257 (tel: (01) 426 7206). Traditional music is everywhere – from musica criolla, with its Spanish and African influences, to the irresistibly bouncy Latin chicha or technocumbia music, blaring out of every bus.

Theatre: Lima boasts an active theatre scene, ranging from formal performances of classics to fringe shows in theatre bars. The majority of plays are in Spanish. The most professional theatres are the atmospherically burnt-out Teatro Municipal, block 3 or Jiron Ica, in central Lima, Centro Cultural de La Catolica, Avenida Camino Real 1075, San Isidro, and Teatro Britanico, Calle Bellavista 529, Miraflores.

Dance: The National Ballet Company shares the Museo de la, Avenida Javier Prado (tel: (01) 476 9875 or 9897), with the National Symphony Orchestra. However, for the real dance experience, visitors should go to a pea (traditional dance show) in one of the small venues in Barranco, such as Manos Morenas, Las Guitarres, Los Balcones, La Estacion de Barranco, Las Brisas del Titicaca and Pericho’s – all within walking distance of Plaza Mayor.

Film: Peru’s film industry is still developing, hampered by a lack of finance but not by a lack of talent. Young filmmakers abound. Ciudad de M (2000), directed by Felipe Degregori, is a strong example of Peruvian Realism and was shot entirely in Lima. Another is Tinta (2001), directed by Francisco Lombardi, which won the Concha the Plata best actor award at the San Sebastian Film Festival in Spain.

Many cinemas show American or British films in their original version with subtitles. Filmoteca de Lima, Museo de Arte, Paseo Coln 125, Avenida 9 de Diciembre (tel: (01) 331 0126), has monthly festivals of foreign films including avant-garde cinema. An excellent multiplex cinema is Cineplanet Alcazar, Ovalo Guiterrez, Miraflores (tel: (01) 421 8208).

Cultural events: The Seor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles), from 18-28 October, is probably Lima’s biggest cultural event of the year. Solemn processions through the centre of the capital dominate the religious festival. Traditionally, Lima women wear purple – considered a sacred colour – for the whole month. Bullfights, concerts, fairs and firework displays also mark the feast. Semana Santa, or Holy Week, is an Easter celebration, characterised by colourful processions and fireworks throughout the city. A smaller religious festival occurs during Santa Rosa de Lima, on 30 August.

Literary Notes
In a famous essay entitled ‘Lima, the horrible’, Peruvian poet and playwright Sebastian Salazar Bondy launches an attack on a city that has both repulsed and fascinated artists. British author, Matthew Parris, entitles one of the chapters in his travel book ‘Inca Kola’ (Atrocious Lima). The city is the backdrop for many of Peru’s most memorable works of fiction, which have focused on the city as a symbol of the best and worst in Peru. The country’s most famous contemporary author, Mario Vargas Llosa, has turned to the capital for inspiration for several of his novels. Vargas Llosa, who once ran for president and now spends much of his time in Europe, has made an art of dissecting a turbulent society riddled with contradictions. The grime and stink of Lima, as well as the animosity between rich and poor come through most powerfully in his Conversation in the Cathedral (1969). Alfredo Bryce Echenique’s A World for Julius (1970), a witty satire on the lives of Lima’s upper classes seen through the eyes of a boy, gives a great insight into Lima life a few decades ago. Julius feels lost in an elegant but ultimately empty world of cocktail parties and golf. Like Vargas Llosa, Bryce lives abroad but his books remain classics for generations of Limeos.

Lima is a city of poets – poetry readings take place almost daily. Miraflores can claim its own 1960s revolutionary poet in Javier Heraud, who left Lima for the Soviet Union, before ending up in Cuba. He returned to Peru to join a band of left-wing guerillas and was eventually shot by government troops in 1963. His best known volume of poetry is The River (1960), a deceptively simple allegory about the journey from youthful adventure towards old age and solitude.

Negro Sobre Blanco and Vano Oficio are two interesting literary review programmes, shown weekly, on terrestrial channel, Canal 7.

Nightlife

Lima’s nightlife is buzzing. Bars and clubs are full of young Peruvians and ‘gringos’ gyrating to anything from salsa to Argentine rock. The evening doesn’t really get going until late and Limeos tend to dress up to go out. The heart of the city’s nightlife is focused in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco. The live music bars and clubs around the Parque Kennedy and flashy discos (Seor Frogs and Teatriz) in the Larco Mar shopping mall, dominate Miraflores nightlife. San Isidro offers a more sophisticated scene for the more mature. The perennial hot spot is Barranco, which bursts into life on Thursday night and carries on until the early hours of Monday morning. Here a bar can fall out of favour within weeks, so it is always best to ask locals for guidance.

The smartest places have a dress code and nightclubs charge between PEN18/US$5 and PEN36/US$10 entrance. There are no strict licensing laws in Peru, which means that children are allowed into most bars and cafs, although one must be over 18 years to drink. A beer usually costs around PEN4-5, while a cocktail costs PEN10-15. Licensing hours are flexible and the most popular bars are open throughout the night or for as long as there are customers to serve.

Information on Lima's nightlife is available online (website: www.concierge.com/lima/nightlife/search/index.ssf or www.elcomercioperu.com.pe).

Bars: For a taste of an old-fashioned Miraflores bar, head to Haiti, Avenida Diagonal 160, which, with its large terrace and smoked glass, invokes memories of the Parisian boulevards. It is a good place to enjoy a pisco sour, before heading to the nearby cinema. La Bodega de La Tratoria, Calle General Borgoso 784, Miraflores, is a perfect site for elegant tapas-type snacks and a beer, all within sight of an ancient Peruvian burial site, La Huaca. For a relaxing Irish-style pub that is not a ghetto for homesick ex-pats, it’s hard to top O’Murphy’s, Calle Schell 627, Miraflores, which serves draught beer, hosts live music and has been expanded to include a dancefloor. An honest, spit-and-sawdust Barranco bar is Juanito’s, Avenida Grau 274, serving beer in pitchers and delicious cured ham sandwiches with onions and chilli. The odd, often-inebriated wandering minstrel supplies the music. La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, Barranco, just off the main square, is one of the most popular spots. Barranco is also home to several small, ‘hole-in-the-wall’ bars, which, because of their cheap prices, are favoured by students and die-hard drinkers, who swig back the beer or spirits until they can hardly stand.

Casinos: There are several casinos and slot-machine halls in Lima. One of the most accessible and enjoyable is probably Casino La Hacienda, Avenida 28 de Julio 511, Miraflores, which is part of the luxury hotel of the same name. The rooms are comfortable, the waiter service attentive and there is plenty of parking space. Casino La Hacienda does not operate a dress code, although this tends to be formal. The minimum age is 18, although a passport is not required. The casino is open 1800-0600.

Clubs: Bar Kitsch, Avenida Bolognesi 743, Barranco, is for disco lovers, who come to revel in the flowery wallpaper, the impromptu bar dancing and excellent cocktails. It gets busy on Friday and Saturday. Much larger and trendier is La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, which has two bars, dozens of tables on two floors and a stage for live music – for which there is a small entry fee. The owners have just opened a second bar in central Lima, in the third block of Jiron Quilca. In Miraflores, Santa Sede, block six of Avenida 28 de Julio, is the regular haunt of the young and bohemian. It plays a pleasing mix of pop and salsa. Before leaving Lima, the visitor should sample at least one salsodromo, a salsa dance club, such as Kimbara, Avenida Republica de Panama 1401, La Victoria, for a true taste of South American smouldering style.

Live music: Lima rocks at the weekend, although there is usually something going on during the week too. A cool, mellow jazz evening on Monday and Saturday nights can be had at Jazz Zone, Avenida La Paz 656, Miraflores, which lays on a variety of bands from blues to experimental jazz. La Casona de Barranco, Avenida Grau 329, Barranco, also offers good live jazz sessions on Monday nights and at the weekend.

City Statistics

Location: Lima District, southwest Peru.
Country dialling code: 51.
Population: 6.3 million (city); 7.5 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: Predominantly mixed blood (Mestizos) and South American (Quechua and Aymaras), with a minority of whites, Asians and blacks.
Religion: 89% Catholic, 7% Evangelical, 4% other.
Time zone: GMT - 5.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 60Hz, flat two-pin plugs are standard but round two-pin plugs usually work.
Average January temp: 25C (77F).
Average July temp: 17C (63F).
Annual rainfall: 50mm (2 inches).

Special Events

El Aniversario de Lima (Anniversary of Lima), anniversary of the founding of Lima, celebrated with fireworks and shows, 18 Jan, throughout the city
Carnavales, pre-Easter carnival, celebrated with street parties, concerts and the gleeful throwing of water-filled balloons at friends and unsuspecting passers-by, Feb, throughout the city
Semana Santa (Holy Week), celebrations consist of colourful processions through Lima, mid-Apr, throughout the city
Fiestas Patrias (Independence Day), celebrations include music, military and school processions and fireworks in Plaza de Armas the night before, 28-29 Jul, throughout the city
Fiesta de Santa Rosa de Lima (St Rose of Lima), public holiday celebrated with processions and music, 30 Aug, Lima Centro
Mes del Seor de los Milagros (Month of Our Lord of the Miracles), processions occur on three separate days in honour of the patron saint of Lima, Oct, throughout the city
International Bullfighting Competitions, 1-30 Nov, Plaza de Acho

Cost of Living

In addition to Peru's Nuevo Sol, US Dollars are also in use and accepted for payment, particularly in tourist areas. While effectively interchangeable, it is always good for tourists to have some local currency in small denominations, to pay for buses, taxis and goods in some small establishments. There is not usually any price advantage to be gained by paying in Dollars rather than the Nuevo Sol, however.

One-litre bottle of mineral water: PEN3/US$1
33cl bottle of beer: PEN5/US$1.5
Financial Times newspaper: PEN6/US$2
36-exposure colour film: PEN20/US$6
City-centre bus ticket: PEN40/US$12
Adult football ticket: From PEN40/US$12
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From PEN45/US$13

1 Peruvian Nuevo Sol (PEN1) = 0.16; US$0.30; C$0.38; A$0.39; 0.24
Currency conversion rates as of Feb2005