World City Guide

Mini Guide of Kuala Lumpur

City Overview

Kuala Lumpur is a city caught in a metropolitan limbo. It wants to be Singapore, but at times feels more like Bangkok and it is this tension between the clean, clinical efficiency of business-like Singapore, and the raffish rough edges of the Thai capital, that conjures up much of the Malaysian capital’s undoubted charm. In Kuala Lumpur, one minute you will be skimming across town on the new monorail with the Petronas Towers, the world’s tallest building, soaring confidently into the heavens above, and the next you are dumped at street level amongst the aromatic orgy of hawker stands and the unwelcome reality of nightmare traffic. This is all a far cry from the city’s low-key origins. When a huddle of poor tin miners first crowded around the mosquito-ridden banks of the slimy Gombak and Klang rivers in 1857, little could they have imagined that within a century and a half, Kuala Lumpur would have metamorphosed into one of Asia’s most vibrant and compelling cities.

Kuala Lumpur, meaning ‘muddy confluence’, has grown with bewildering speed since the tin mining days; a growth that took on epic proportions after independence and particularly in the late 1980s and early 1990s, as the ‘Asian Tiger’ economy propelled an ever-changing skyline. The speed of change has left old Chinese houses and faded colonial mansions idling beside huge gleaming glass and steel towers, while food hawkers and traditional fortune tellers share the streets with bustling businessmen and guidebook toting tourists. The city is not so much a melting pot or clichd contrast between old and new as it is an ever-evolving jungle of buildings, which seem to have sprouted organically from the sweaty vegetation and murky rivers that still snake through the heart of town.
One of the most admirable aspects of the city is the level of tolerance displayed by its cosmopolitan residents, with ethnic Malays, Chinese, Indians and Europeans all living and working together with few racial problems – certainly far less than those experienced in Western Europe or North America.

To many Malaysians, Kuala Lumpur is quite simply the Ibukota (‘Mother City’) and as so it is treated with great reverence and abbreviated fondly to ‘KL’. Over the last few years, Kuala Lumpur has been emerging from the economic crisis that gripped the region’s economies in the late 1990s. A whole swathe of unfinished construction and infrastructure projects are now being completed and the development of Putrajaya, the new administrative capital, and Cyberjaya, the key section of the new Multimedia Super Corridor, are now steering KL back towards the course set by former Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad with the aim of becoming a fully developed nation by 2020. Much of Kuala Lumpur’s future depends on the new Malaysian leader, Abdullah Badawi, who replaced Dr Mahathir on 31 October 2003 after his epic 22 years in power.

One constant in Kuala Lumpur is the climate, with consistently warm daytime temperatures, balmy evenings and afternoons that are often punctuated by thunderstorms, usually passing quickly to leave the evenings cool and rain free.

Getting There By Air

Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL)
Tel: (03) 8777 8888. Fax: (03) 8926 5209.
Website: www.klia.com.my

The state-of-the-art Kuala Lumpur International Airport (or KLIA), 43km (27 miles) to the south of the city centre, is a major gateway to South East Asia. It handles flights for over 40 international carriers and in 2001 (latest figures available) the airport served over 14 million passengers. A fast transit train connects the arrival gates with the arrivals hall.

Major airlines: Award-winning national airline Malaysia Airlines (tel: (03) 7846 3000; website: www.malaysiaairlines.com.my) operates both international and domestic flights. Other major airlines include: British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Garuda Indonesia, Japan Airlines, KLM, Lufthansa, Northwest, SAS, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and rapidly expanding regional budget carrier Air Asia.

Approximate flight times to Kuala Lumpur: From London is 13 hours; from New York is 20 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 17 hours 45 minutes; from Toronto is 21 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 8 hours.

Airport facilities: These include ATMs, bureaux de change, 24-hour shopping, duty free, restaurants, postal services, tourist information, hotel reservations, car hire (Budget and Hertz) medical service, left-luggage and prayer rooms.

Business facilities: These include executive lounges, limousine service to the city and the E-Centre (tel: (03) 8787 2323), which provides telephone, fax, Internet, teleconferencing, postal and secretarial services.

Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival tax and tickets purchased within Malaysia usually include departure tax. Otherwise RM40 international and RM10 domestic departure tax is payable.

Transport to the city: The new Express Rail Link (tel: (03) 2267 8000; fax: (03) 2267 8910; website: www.KLIAEkspres.com) connects KLIA with the KL KAT Terminal at Sentral Station, in the city centre. There are two airport services – the KLIA Ekspres, which covers the journey in 28 minutes without stopping, and the KLIA Transit, which takes 37 minutes and stops en route at Salak Tinggi, Putrajaya/Cyberjaya and Bandar Tasik Selatan. Fares for both routes are RM35 single and RM70 return. The KLIA Ekspres service starts at 0500 in both directions, with the last trains leaving at 0100 and there is a train every 15 minutes. The KLIA Transit starts at 0532 and finishes at 0032 in both directions with a train departing every 30 minutes.

Taxis can be pre-paid in the arrivals area at the airport and visitors should expect to pay RM60-RM90 depending on the type of vehicle to the city centre (journey time – 40 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Roads in Malaysia are generally in good repair and driving standards are higher than in most Asian countries. In general, road routes are simply numbered. Traffic drives on the left and it is compulsory to wear a seatbelt. The speed limits are 60kph (37mph) in the city, 90kph (56mph) on main country roads and 110kph (69mph) on highways and expressways. The minimum age for driving is 21 years (16 years for a motorcycle). A national driving licence is required and it is advisable to obtain an International Driving Permit. Without the latter, the Road Transport Department must endorse any national licence. Third party automobile liability insurance is compulsory. Drink-driving is an offence that is taken very seriously in Malaysia, and is punished with large fines or imprisonment. So if you are going to drink alcohol, leave the car behind.

The North–South Highway, which extends from Singapore to the Thai border via Kuala Lumpur, has made driving in Malaysia a relative breeze. Although driving standards are good, Malaysia still has its share of drivers who take risks such as overtaking on blind corners, speeding in heavy rainfall and jumping red traffic lights.

A letter of introduction from a driver’s own automobile association is required to join the Automobile Association Malaysia (AAM). (tel: (03) 2162 6915, fax: (03) 2162 5358; e-mail: support@autoworld.com.my; website: www.autotrade.com.my/aam.)

Emergency breakdown service(s): Automobile Association Malaysia (03) 2161 0808 or 1 800 88 0808 (toll free). Plusronda (tel: (03) 2692 0000; website: www.plus.com.my/plusronda.asp) provide 24-hour emergency telephones, situated every two kilometres on expressways and highways.

Routes to the city: The North–South Expressway Central Link (NSECL), Federal Highway, Shal Alam Expressway and Klang Valley Expressway Highway are the main routes to the city centre. Both the NSECL and the federal road Route 1 run from Johor Baru, which is connected via bridge to Singapore in the south, to Kuala Lumpur, as well from Butterworth/Penang into the city centre. From Melaka, the federal road Route 5 connects to the Shah Alam and Klang Valley Express Highway into Kuala Lumpur city centre.

Approximate driving times to Kuala Lumpur: from Melaka – 2-3 hours; Singapore – 5-6 hours; Butterworth/Penang – 6-7 hours.

Coach services: Kuala Lumpur has four interstate express bus terminals serving different regions of Peninsula Malaysia. A large number of companies operate air-conditioned services, including Transnasional Express (tel: (03) 2070 3300). In most cases, there is no need for travellers to book in advance and passengers simply turn up and get on the next bus. The main terminal, Puda Raya Bus Station, Jalan Puda Raya (tel: (03) 230 0145), is a hub for services all over Peninsula Malaysia, as well as international services to Singapore (journey time – 7-8 hours) and Thailand (journey time – 12-13 hours). Despite the recent introduction of ‘black boxes’ on Malaysian buses, serious accidents remain a frequent problem and dangerous driving is common.

Services to the east coast of Peninsula Malaysia also leave from Putra Bus Station, opposite the Putra World Trade Centre, and Pekeliling Bus Station. Banguan MARA Bus Station serves destinations to the south.

Getting There By Rail

Keretapi Tanah Melayu – KTM (tel: (03) 2267 1200; e-mail: callcenter@ktmb.com.my; website: www.ktmb.com.my) operates the rail services in Peninsula Malaysia. These are fast and efficient, although prone to derailments and land/mudslides on longer journeys.

The KL Sentral Station (tel: (03) 2730 2000; fax: (03) 2730 2020; e-mail: info@klsentral.com.my; website: www.klsentral.com.my) , which opened in 2001 and is located one-and-a-half kilometres (one mile) northwest of the city centre, has replaced Kuala Lumpur Railway Station as the city’s main station. Facilities at this high-tech station include ATMs, bureau de change, left-luggage and tourist information. Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station is part of a massive multi-million dollar development, which will incorporate hotels, offices, retail outlets, residential property and recreational facilities by 2010. Intercity trains, apart from the luxurious Eastern and Oriental Express (website: www.orient-express.com), no longer stop at Kuala Lumpur Railway Station.

Rail Services: The main routes from Kuala Lumpur are south to Singapore (journey time – 7 hours) and north to Bangkok (journey time – 14 hours 30 minutes) via Butterworth (journey time – 7 hours). It is only possible for travellers to reach Kota Baru on Malaysia’s northeast coast by travelling via Gemas (journey time – 12 hours), southwest of Kuala Lumpur. The world famous Eastern and Oriental Express (website: www.orient-express.com) connects KL with Singapore to the south and Bangkok to the north, with the journey as important as the destination and an emphasis on five-star luxury, gourmet food and smooth service.

Transport to the City: Taxis to the city centre cost RM5-7 (journey time – 10-15 minutes). Putra LRT (tel: 1 800 388 228 (toll free in Malaysia from 0830-1730) or 017 331 7779 (1730-0830); website: www.putralrt.com.my) operate a light rail service direct from Kuala Lumpur Sentral to various stops in the city. Access to stations on the STAR LRT (tel: (03) 4294 2550; e-mail: star@starlrt.po.my) route is via Masjid Jamek station. KTM Kommuter trains (tel: (03) 2267 1200; e-mail: callcenter@ktmb.com.my; website: www.ktmb.com.my) serving destinations to the west, south and north, also run direct from the station. The KL Monorail (tel: (03) 2273 1888; e-mail: info@monorail.com.my; website: www.monorail.com.my) has finally opened after numerous delays. Its city centre-Sentral route is currently limited and its usefulness hampered by an early shutdown time of 1500.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Kuala Lumpur has an increasingly fast, efficient and cheap public transport system, which comprises many different forms of transport. Public transport congestion is, though, becoming a problem that is exacerbated by broken ticket machines and the need to buy different tickets for individual transport providers, rather than a universal day pass.

Keretapi Tanah Melayu – KTM (tel: (03) 2267 1200; e-mail: callcenter@ktmb.com.my; website: www.ktmb.com.my) operates two KTM Kommuter lines. These electric trains run from Sentul to Port Klang and Rawang to Seremban, between 0500-2400. Fares depend on the distance travelled and cost RM1–RM4.80 for a single journey. Return fares and 12-trip tickets are also available. Each station has an easy-to-use ticket machine. KTM offers two day passes, the Kembara Ticket at RM10 for unlimited travel within the KTM network on weekends, school holidays and public holidays and the Mana Mana Ticket at RM6 for unlimited travel within the KTM network during weekdays, valid only after 0900. These are available from the KTM vending machines at the stations.
There are also two Light Railway Transit (LRT) lines in the city. Two separate conglomerates ran these mainly elevated electric trains until September 2002, when the people behind Putra LRT (tel: 1 800 388 228 (toll free in Malaysia from 0830-1730) or 017 331 7779 (1730-0830); website: www.putralrt.com.my) bought out STAR LRT. STAR LRT trains run south from Sentul Timur to Sri Petaling and Ampang in the east. Putra LTR trains run between the Putra Terminal in the northeast of the Lembah Subang Depot on Kuala Lumpur’s western outskirts. Services operate weekdays 0600-2400, weekends 0730-2300. Fares depend on which company is operating the service and distances travelled, costing from RM0.70 to RM4.50 for a single journey. This is slated to change after the full hand over of ownership and integration process, but nothing has yet been finalised. Each station has a ticket machine that is easy to use when it works and is accepting notes, which is often the case.

Cityliner (tel: (03) 7982 6904) and Intrakota (tel: (03) 7727 2727) are the main providers of Kuala Lumpur’s comprehensive and highly complex bus service. Although routes vary, main services generally run between 0500 and 2400. Each company operates a different fare system, with fares ranging from RM0.60 to RM1 and tickets are purchased on board (exact change is preferred). Bus route maps are displayed at many bus stops throughout the city.

Sections of the elevated KL Monorail (tel: (03) 2273 1888; e-mail: info@monorail.com.my; website: www.monorail.com.my) have opened four years after the original 1999 timescale. However, the service that is supposed to operate from 0700-2000 currently finishes at 1500. Single tickets cost from RM1.20-RM2.50 depending on the distance travelled. The monorail, when fully opened, will serve destinations from Titiwangsa in the north to a stop near Kuala Lumpur’s Sentral Station (tel: (03) 2730 2000; fax: (03) 2730 2020; e-mail: info@klsentral.com.my; website: www.klsentral.com.my) and will also cover destinations in the Golden Triangle.

Taxis
Taxis can be pre-booked from Destination Transport (tel: (03) 6235 1313), Public Cab (tel: (03) 6259 2020) and Sunlight Taxis (tel: (03) 9057 5757), or hailed on the street. Taxi ranks are also found throughout the city. Queues at the ranks are especially long during rush hour. All taxis have meters, which most drivers willingly use. If the taxi does not have a meter or the driver refuses to use the meter, it is advisable to wait for the next available taxi. Taxi drivers touting for business at main transport terminals should be avoided. During thunderstorms, many taxis will only take passengers for an agreed flat fare and will refuse to use meters.

The meter rate starts at RM2 for the first two kilometres and then it costs RM0.10 for each subsequent 200m (656ft). Pre-ordered taxis incur a surcharge of RM1. Journeys made between 0000-0600 incur a 50% surcharge. Surcharges of RM1 for each piece of luggage carried in the car boot and RM0.20 for more than two passengers are also levied. Passengers are responsible for any road tolls incurred. Tips are not generally expected or given.

Limousines
These can be hired at the airport at the Limousine Service Counter (Tel: (03) 8776 6753 or (03) 8787 4451), through Pelican Tours and Travel (tel: (03) 2096 1960) and at most luxury hotels. Limousines to the city from Kuala Lumpur International Airport cost around RM100 and hire for a day costs approximately RM400.

Driving in the City
Driving in Kuala Lumpur is increasingly becoming as hair-raising as driving in other South East Asian cities is. The roads are in good condition and driving standards are reasonably good, however, the maze of one-way systems in the city centre and the large number of fuel-choked traffic jams make patience and a good road map essential requirements.

Car parks are generally located at large hotels and city-centre shopping malls. Three central public car parks are Asia Park on Jalan Bukit Bintang, and the two car parks behind the Dorsett Regency Hotel just off Jalan Imbi (opening times 0700-0100). The cost is RM2 for the first hour and then RM1.50 for each subsequent hour.

Car Hire
A national driving licence is required to hire a car in Malaysia, it is also advisable to hold an International Driving Permit. Age limits apply and drivers must usually be at least 23 years old and have held a full driving licence for two years. Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) from RM15 per day is usually compulsory, with Personal Accident Insurance (PAI) from RM6 per day and Theft Protection from RM15 per day as recommended extras.

Major providers include Avis (tel: (03) 8787 4087/4088 or 9222 2558; website: www.avis.com.my) and Hertz (tel: (03) 8787 4572, or 2148 6433; website: www.hertz.com.my). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from RM200 per day and RM950 per week.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Kuala Lumpur is not a safe city in which to travel around on two wheels. Road accidents involving bicycles, scooters and motorcycles are very common. The Malaysian tourism promotion board's official line is that two-wheel transport is not generally available for hire.

Business

Business Profile
After gaining independence in 1957, Malaysia and its capital city enjoyed decades of impressive growth, which was accompanied by a rapid transformation from a largely rural-based system into a progressive urban-based economy. The main industries today are petroleum oil production, forestry, manufacturing and palm oil production. Palm oil generated around 40% more export revenue in 2003 than it did in 2002 and Malaysia is the world’s largest producer.

The tourism and hi-tech industries have also come to the fore over the last decade and this will be a key focus of the economy with the continuing emergence of the Cyberjaya area. The 1997 regional recession, however, did hit Malaysia hard and many sectors of the economy are still recovering. As the national currency (the Ringgit) devalued, GNP fell to around - 7%. In Kuala Lumpur, major transport developments like the Express Rail Link (ERL), Sentral Station and the Monorail were put on hold.

Astute fiscal management has brought the country back on track quicker than many analysts expected. Although the economy is not expected to experience the same high levels of growth that it did in the heady pre-1997 days, it has weathered the storm and now seems to be working to more stable and realistic targets. Industry continues to be the main employer in Kuala Lumpur and the city’s unemployment rate at 3.9% in August 2003 is much the same as the country’s, which stood at 4.1% in August 2003. The massive Multimedia Super Corridor (MSC) development (part of former Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad’s Vision 2020) continues amid a series of delays and downsizing. Managed by the government-appointed Multimedia Development Corporation (website: www.mdc.com.my), this project’s ambitious goals are to attract the world’s leading multimedia organisations to a 15-kilometre wide and 50-kilometre long Multimedia Super Corridor, stretching from Kuala Lumpur City Centre to Kuala Lumpur International Airport. This would effectively place Malaysia and indeed the city at the forefront of technological excellence, innovation and research.

The worldwide downturn in the technology industry has left the MSC’s future uncertain, with many analysts suggesting a delayed implementation of the 20-year plan at best and a considerable downscaling at worst, though finally buildings are appearing and companies such as Ericsson are moving in. The post-Bali hysteria, which cut tourist numbers in the wake of the bombings, has died down, and, barring any further terrorist attacks in the region, Islamic terrorism may not emerge as the major threat to the increasingly important tourist industry that it appeared back in the dark days of October 2002. With Prime Minister Dr Mahathir finally retired, much of Malaysia and KL’s future economic fortunes will depend on the new balance of power and whether Abdullah Badawi can fill the big boots of the man who has led the country for so long.

The main business district in Kuala Lumpur is KLCC, which stands for Kuala Lumpur City Centre. The area around KLCC and Jalan Bukit Bintang, where many of the expensive five-star hotels and shopping malls are located, is collectively called ‘The Golden Triangle’. The development of Putrajaya, a purpose built administration centre on the way to the airport, continues apace though it will not replace the business and commercial functions of the KLCC, only many of the government and administrative roles. Petronas is the biggest company in the country, concentrating mainly in oil and related industries but increasingly diversifying into other sectors. Big domestic players are Bank Negara and Maybank in finance, and Gamuda, Ekovest and YTL in construction. Major international companies with a presence in Kuala Lumpur include Nestl, Carlsberg and Guinness. There are internet cafs dotted all over the city as well as email and web facilities in most four and five star hotels.

Business Etiquette
All business meetings, however informal, would be conducted at the office or in neutral venues such as restaurants. Business office hours are usually 0900-1700 Monday to Friday, although government departments tend to close earlier.

Despite the high humidity levels, suit and tie is the norm for men and smart dress for women, although concessions are usually made for visiting foreign businesspeople unused to the tropical conditions. English is the main business language in Kuala Lumpur, with most businesspeople (at all levels and in companies of all sizes) at least competent in English. Any attempts to use a few Bahasa Malaysian conversational words are greatly appreciated and can break the ice quickly. One key aspect to remember is that it is considered inappropriate to use the left hand for handshakes or handing over documents, as this is traditionally used for cleaning after toilet use. Business cards are also an essential prerequisite to any business meeting, no matter how informal, and should be handed over with both hands.

Malaysians are quite conservative when it comes to business and clients are not often invited home. As Malaysia is a Muslim country, many local businessmen and women will not drink alcohol during lunch or dinner meetings. However, it is acceptable for non-Muslims to do so, in moderation. It is also important for visitors to be careful when choosing gifts, as obvious things like spirit or wine are a definite non-starter and less obvious gifts like watches, associated with death by many ethnic Chinese, might also offend.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The city’s traffic system can still be a logistical nightmare for congested rush hour commuters, but it is increasingly handy for tourists with a number of rail and monorail options in the city centre that make navigating the sprawling city much easier. The real pleasure, though, is walking around, savouring the sights and sounds of this colourful city. The heart of Kuala Lumpur is around Datran Merdeka (Independence Square) and this open space makes a good starting point for a city tour. The square is dominated by a towering flagpole, which commemorates the country’s independence from Britain on 31 August 1957 – the day when the new Malaysian flag replaced the Union Jack. Also on the square, the Royal Selangor Club is an excellent example of colonial architecture, while the Sultan Abdul Samad Building (the seat of the high and supreme courts) is an intriguing mix of Victorian and Moorish architecture.

Elsewhere around the city, in striking contrast to the British-built architecture, are the stunning Masjid Negara (National Mosque) and Masjid Jamek (Friday Mosque). The ornate Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is something of a hybrid of the two, looking more like a dreamy Moorish palace than a transport hub. These days, it no longer functions as an important railway station, giving it a lost, old world feel that definitely merits a visit.

Those looking to get an insight into the layout of the city should ascend to either the observation level of the Petronas Towers or the viewing platform at the Menara Observation Tower. The latter is a better option as it gives 360-degree views that include the Petronas Towers from its hilltop position. Menara also has a restaurant, a caf and a small museum.

KL’s harmonious ethnic diversity is one of its greatest charms and a visit to the divergent areas of the city is essential. Chinatown, with its traditional shops and lively night market, Little India and the Art Deco Central Market, which showcases cultural displays and Malaysian arts and crafts, all shed light on their respective communities.

The main attractions in the Golden Triangle business, hotel and shopping district are the towering Petronas Towers themselves, the KLCC Park, the fashionable and vibrant Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail. An unlikely newcomer on the tourist route is the western suburb of Bangsar Baru. Located a short journey from the new Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station, the pavement cafs of Bangsar are popular with visitors and locals alike and are increasingly becoming the place to see and be seen. Further out from the city, back towards the international airport, the new administrative city of Putrajaya and the hi-tech city of Cyberjaya have now been opened up on day tours, offering a fascinating insight into town planning on a grand scale.

Tourist Information
Malaysia Tourism Centre (MTC)
109 Jalan Ampang
Tel: (03) 2164 3929 or 2164 2163. Fax: (03) 2162 1149.
E-mail: ticmtc@tourism.gov.my
Website: www.tourism.gov.my
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.

The main tourist office looks more like a tourist resort than an information centre. There are restaurants and craft shops but unfortunately the commercialism continues to the desk staff, who are often more interested in organising guided tours or trips around the country rather than dispensing useful information about the city. There are additional tourist information offices in Plaza Putra (on the southern edge of Independence Square) and at KLIA.

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Kuala Lumpur.

Key Attractions

Masjid Jamek (Friday Mosque)
The Friday Mosque, the city’s oldest built in 1909, is situated astride the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers (at the point where the first Europeans scrambled ashore) and is one of the most stunning and popular sights in the city. The best time to visit is at sunset or during the muezzin’s call to prayer, which echoes around the ornate domes and palm trees, lending the mosque an air of calm amongst the skyscrapers. When visiting any of Kuala Lumpur’s mosques, it is essential to dress conservatively and remove footwear.

Jalan Tun Perak
Tel: (03) 2691 2829.
Transport: Masjid Jamek LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1330 and 1430-1800.
Admission: Free.

Masjid Negara (National Mosque)
In complete contrast to the Friday Mosque, the National Mosque is a modern mosque, built in 1965, which gleams every bit as brilliantly as any of Kuala Lumpur’s skyscrapers. The main dome is moulded in the shape of an 18-point star to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and the five central Pillars of Islam. The huge main prayer hall can hold up to 10,000 worshippers, although this section of the mosque is closed to non-worshippers. To the rear is a mausoleum holding the remains of some of Malaysia’s most revered sons.

Jalan Perdana
Tel: (03) 2693 7784.
Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1200, 1500-1600 and 1730-1830.
Admission: Free; visitors are not allowed during prayer times.

Kuala Lumpur Railway Station
Veteran train traveller and writer Paul Theroux summed up this unique building when he called it ‘the grandest station in South East Asia’. The 1911 Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is an extraordinary architectural mlange – a kind of Walt Disney meets Moorish British colonialism. The riot of minarets, towers, arches and spires make starting or ending a journey here, or even just visiting the station, a breathtaking pleasure. Sadly, InterCity trains no longer stop at the station, although it is still serving as a refuelling stop and passenger pick-up point for the grand Eastern and Oriental Express. Making a special trip to see this luxurious locomotive pull in, fill its water tanks and ease out again is a memorable experience.

Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin
Tel: (03) 2274 7410.
Website: www.keretapi.com/the-kuala-lumpur-railway-station.html
Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Central Market
The blue and pink pastel Art Deco Central Market was built in 1936 and spent many years as the home of the city’s largest fresh produce market. Since 1986, the needs of tourism have taken over and the market has 130 arts and crafts shops with batik, pottery, woodcarvings and basketry amongst the highlights, as well as regular cultural performances on the riverside stage. Mercifully, some authentic Malaysian food outlets have managed to survive alongside the tourist-orientated eateries.

Jalan Hang Kasturi
Tel: (03) 2274 9966.
Transport: Central Market LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200.
Admission: Free.

Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia
For those with even a passing interest in Islamic art, the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia is an essential stop. Domestic Islamic architectural styles are well covered across the three floors of museum space and there are also scale models of the Taj Mahal and the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The Ottoman Room contains various artefacts from the days when this powerful Islamic empire threatened the gates of Vienna and the rest of Western Europe. The Al-Quran and Manuscripts Gallery boasts over 200 Islamic manuscripts.

Jalan Lembah Perdana
Tel: (03) 2274 2020. Fax: (03) 2274 0529.
E-mail: info@iamm.org.my
Website: www.iamm.org.my
Transport: Seni LRT.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: RM8, concessions available.

Petronas Towers
Since their opening in 1997, the Petronas Towers has become one of the city’s main symbols. It is the world’s tallest building, looming into the heavens and often lost in cloud when the afternoon thunderstorms rumble in. Standing 452m (1,483ft) and 88 storeys high, the building (designed by Cesar Pelli) consists of two similarly shaped towers joined by a 58m (192ft) Skybridge at the 41st and 42nd floors, which is open to visitors wanting to survey the city skyline. Petronas have also opened a new Science Discovery Centre packaged as PETROSAINS, which provides a fun and educational way for children to learn about both petroleum science and science in general.

Level 4, Suria KLCC
Tel: (03) 2331 8181.
E-mail: info-petrosains@petronas.com.my
Website: www.petrosains.com
Transport: KLCC LRT station.
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 0930-1730, Sat and Sun 0930-1830 and Fri 1330-1700.
Admission: RM17.

Muzium Negara (National Museum)
Since 1963, the National Museum has been an essential stop for anyone interested in delving beyond the skyscrapers and discovering more about the rich history and culture of Malaysia. The exhibitions present the history of the country, while the building itself incorporates various different Malaysian architectural styles and craftwork from different parts of the nation, making the National Museum an embodiment of the many aspects of Malaysia.

Jalan Damansara
Tel: (03) 2282 6255. Fax: (03) 2282 7294.
E-mail: info@museum.gov.my
Website: www.museum.gov.my
Transport: Bangsar LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800.
Admission: RM1.

Tugu Negara (National Monument)
The National Monument (an impressive brass sculpture designed by an American, cast in Italy and erected in Kuala Lumpur in 1966) is one of the world’s largest free-standing sculptures. The heroic soldiers that it depicts were engaged in ‘The Emergency’ in the 1950s, when Malaysia battled with communist insurgents. The monument is currently under wraps, undergoing a renovation programme, and is due to re-open in 2004.

Jalan Tugu, off Jalan Parlimenn
Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Menara Kuala Lumpur
The onion-dome topped, needle-like Menara Kuala Lumpur is the fourth tallest telecommunications tower in the world and it offers fantastic 360-degree panoramic views over the city from its 276-metre high observation deck. Built in 1996, the tower stands 421 metres tall and as this landmark sits atop a hill, it affords visitors unique vistas of the soaring Petronas Towers. Other facilities at the tower include a revolving restaurant, cafs and a souvenir shop.

Jalan Punchak
Tel: (03) 2020 5444. Fax: (03) 2034 2609.
E-mail: azhar@menarakl.com.my
Website: www.menarakl.com.my
Opening hours: 0900-2200.
Admission: RM15. Concessions available.

Further Distractions

Taman Tasik Perdana (Lake Gardens)
The Lake Gardens date back as far as 1888, when the British colonials built their elegant houses around the landscaped gardens. Today, the focus of the 68-hectare (172-acre) oasis is the boating lake but other highlights include the orchid garden with around 800 different varieties, the hibiscus garden with some 500 different species, the deerpark, butterfly park and the bird park. The butterfly park boasts a massive collection, with over 6,000 butterflies from 140 species, and claims to be the largest in Asia. Built in 1991, the bird park has more than 2000 birds.

Jalan Parlimenn
Transport: Pasar Seni LRT station.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours (Lake Gardens); daily 0900-1700 (parks).
Admission: Free. RM2-6 entrance to parks and gardens.

Little India
Explore beyond the Malay mores that Kuala Lumpur wears so proudly on its sleeve and there are traces of a multitude of other cultures that blossom in the city, such as Little India. This historic district is full of colourful streets, especially Jalan Masjid India, which boasts an Indian Muslim mosque as well as sidewalk artists, street traders and shops.

Jalan Masjid India
Transport: Masjid Jamek LRT station.

Millionaires Row
Known locally as either Millionaires Row or Ambassadors Row, Jalan Ampang is lined with the luxurious mansions of the old colonialists who grew rich on the wealth generated by the tin trade. Today, many of these dwellings have been converted into embassies and consulates giving it its alternative name. Curiously, few visitors explore this area even though it gives a lucid insight into the embryonic years of the city. Many of the grand buildings have been given face-lifts over last few years, making it an even more attractive tourist spot.

Jalan Ampang
Transport: Sultan Ismail LRT station.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Although it is possible to walk around specific areas of Kuala Lumpur, such as China Town or Masjid Little India, quite easily, the busy main roads that crisscross the city can make any attempt at a comprehensive walking tour daunting, so this is not recommended. It is much safer to use one of the many available public transport options to travel between sights. Tour East (tel: (04) 227 4522; fax: (04) 227 4755; website: www.toureast.net) offers a three-hour evening stroll and dinner tour, costing RM220 (including dinner). Running daily from January to March, the tours commence with a walk around the Central Market, culminating with a trip to the Menara Tower for a dinner at the revolving restaurant. Pick up and drop off at city hotels is included.

Bus Tours
Reliance Travel (tel: (03) 2148 6022 for tours, or 2148 6280 for tickets; fax: (03) 2143 3997; website: www.reliancetravel.com) offers Kuala Lumpur city tours, with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Kuala Lumpur. These three-hour tours cost RM30. Stops include a handicraft centre, the Golden Triangle, the National Museum, Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, Masjid Jamek, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and the National Mosque. Reliance can also arrange airport transport and onward travel, as well as tours to Putrajaya and Cyberjaya. Cacinjo Holidays (tel: (03) 2770 1750; fax: (03) 2775 8633) offer a variety of tours in and around Kuala Lumpur. The four-hour ‘Cultural Night Tour’ takes in Little India, China Town, Central Market, Merdeka Square, the KLCC Twin Towers, the Kuala Lumpur Stock Exchange and the Restoran Sri Melayu, where diners are treated to a traditional performance of Malaysian dance. Tours start at 1845 and cost RM130 including the buffet meal. A complimentary city tour is thrown in at 0930 the following day. Many hotels hold details of other city tours, as does the tourist information office (see Tourist Information).

Excursions

For a Half Day
Batu Caves: The limestone Batu Caves (tel: (03) 6189 6284), 13km (eight miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, is the most popular excursion from the city. Today, much of the most visited part of the cave complex is made up of Hindu temples. It is a steep 272-step climb to the main Temple Cave, while the Dark Cave boasts some stunning rock formations and the Museum Cave recreates scenes from Indian mythology. Every February, during the holy festival of Thaipusam, the caves attract as many as 80,000 Hindu devotees and curious onlookers. The journey to the Batu Caves takes 30 minutes by bus 11D from the Central Market.

Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah (Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah State Mosque): 30km (18 miles) west of Kuala Lumpur in Shah Alam, Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah State Mosque sits in 10 hectares (30 acres) of landscaped gardens. This computer-designed mosque is the largest in Malaysia and reputedly in South-East Asia. Built in 1988, the mosque is an appealing combination of traditional Islamic and ethnic Malay architecture. Its most striking features are the gleaming blue aluminium dome, which is a staggering 92m (302ft) high, and its four towering minarets. Buses run to the mosque from Klang bus station. Alternatively, take the Port Klang bound Kommuter train to Shah Alam and then take a bus or taxi to the mosque. The mosque is open Monday to Thursday from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 and on Fridays from 1500-1630. Entrance is free.

For a Whole Day
Sunway Lagoon Themepark: Just 15 minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur, in Petaling Jaya, the Sunway Lagoon Themepark (tel: (03) 5635 8000; fax: (03) 5635 5050; website: www.sunway.com.my/lagoon) is built on redeveloped mining land. The newest attraction, Waters of Africa, claims to have the world’s largest man-made surfing pool and also boasts a diverse range of thrilling African-themed water rides. The other two parks (World of Adventure and Wild Wild West) are dry parks offering exciting white-knuckle rides with the former staking claim to the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge. The park is open Mon and Wed to Fri 1100-1800, Sat and Sun, public holidays and Malaysia school holidays 1000-1800. Adult admission is RM39 to all of the parks or RM27 to either the wet or dry parks. Children’s entry is RM26 to all the parks or RM19 to just the wet park or dry parks. The Sunway Lagoon Themepark can be reached by bus from the Klang or Puda Raya bus stations, the KMT Kommuter train stop at Subang Jaya, the Putra LTR stop at Kelana Jaya and then a feeder bus to the park or by taxi.

Templer’s Park: Established by the British during the colonial years, Templer’s Park, 21km (13 miles) north of Kuala Lumpur, is a 1,200-hectare (3,000-acre) section of Malaysian jungle where visitors have the chance to explore trails, swim in the pools and relax by waterfalls. Templer’s Park can be reached by bus 66 from Puda Raya bus station in the city centre. The park is open daily, 24 hours, and entrance is free.

Sport

The national sport in Malaysia has traditionally been badminton, although football is increasingly replacing it in terms of player numbers and certainly television audience figures, with every move of Manchester United religiously followed. Badminton may still make the sport pages of all the newspapers, but live English Premiership football blasts around the city’s bars, hotels and even hawker centres with disturbing regularity, while replica English football tops are en vogue. Kuala Lumpur’s own eponymous football team, Kuala Lumpur, play in the Premier One league at the KLFA Stadium, Jalan Yacob Ladif, Cheras (tel: (03) 9131 5757) and are currently one of the best teams in the country, though they may never replace Manchester United in local affections. Kuala Lumpur’s recent sporting highlight came with the successful staging of the 1998 Commonwealth Games. Winning the rights to stage the first ever Formula One Grand Prix in South-East Asia was another impressive achievement of the go-getting Malaysian government. Every October, the Sepang International Circuit (tel: (03) 8526 2000; fax: (03) 8526 1000; e-mail: sic@malaysiangp.com.my; website: www.malaysiangp.com/my) plays host to the world’s top racing drivers in the Malaysian Grand Prix. The state-of-the-art circuit also hosts a round of the FIM Motorcycle Grand Prix and the Grand Touring Championship as well as rally and adventure events.

More traditional sports like sepak takraw (a kind of volleyball with feet rather than hands) are on the way out, with many youngsters losing interest – Malaysia, the birthplace of sepak takraw, is now second best to its neighbour, Thailand.

There is no umbrella ticketing organisation in Kuala Lumpur and tickets to sporting events can be purchased direct from the venue or upon arrival.

Bowling: Ten-pin bowling is very popular in Kuala Lumpur, with rinks in some of the shopping malls. At the heart of the Golden Triangle, the Federal Hotel (tel: (03) 2148 9166), Jalan Bukit Bintang, has a ten-pin bowling alley, the Federal Bowl which is open daily 1000-0100. There is also bowling at the Yow Chuan Plaza (tel: (03) 243 0953), Jalan Tun Razak.

Fitness Centres: Most top and mid-range hotels have their own fitness centres. Amongst the best public fitness centres are the chain of clubs aptly named the ‘sweat clubs’. These are located in the Mid Valley Megamall (tel: (03) 2284 3833; fax: (03) 2284 3323), MiCasa Hotel Apartments (tel: (03) 2161 1757; fax: (03) 2161 1734) and the Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel (tel: (03) 2161 3323; fax: (03) 2162 2232), which is open 24 hours a day except Sunday, when it closes at 1900.

Golf: Golf lovers are well catered for in Kuala Lumpur, with a number of courses dotted around the outskirts of the city. Depending on availability, most courses are happy to take visiting golfers with fees paid per round for either 9 or 18 holes. The Kuala Lumpur Golf and Country Club, 10 Jalan 1/70D, off Jalan Bukit Kiara (tel: (03) 253 1111), is open to non-members with green fees from RM180. The Royal Selangor Golf Club, Jalan Kelab Golf (tel: (03) 9284 8433), is a members-only club that is also open to both members’ guests and residents at many of the city’s luxury hotels. Green fees are RM399. Near the old airport is the Saujana Golf and Country Club, Saujana Resort Section U2, Shah Alam (tel: (03) 7846 1466), where green fees start at RM178.

Swimming: Most hotels charging over RM200 a night will have their own swimming pool. Alternatively, there are public swimming pools at Bangsar Sports Complex (tel: (03) 254 2360), 3 Jalan Terasek and at Weld Swimming Pool (tel: (03) 232 4602) next to Chin Woo Stadium, off Jalan Hang Jebat.

Tennis: The top hotels will have at least one tennis court. Alternatively, there are tennis courts for hire at Bangsar Sports Complex (tel: (03) 254 2360), 3 Jalan Terasek, and at Kampung, Datuk Keramat, Taman Keramat (tel: (03) 4256 4853).

Shopping

Shopping Kuala Lumpur is a shopping paradise with an eclectic spectrum of retail opportunities, from air-conditioned mega malls right through to the frenetic street markets. Prices are excellent in both and haggling is the norm in the street markets and even in some of the malls, where bulk discounts are also on offer. The city overflows with malls, the scale of which is impressive – bowling alleys, discos, cinemas (even a canal in one of them) add a surreal element to the shopping experience.

Many of the malls are located on Jalan Bukit Bintang and are marketed under the umbrella term of Bintang Walk (website: www.bintangwalk.com). Here visitors can pick up electrical goods in Bukit Bintang Plaza, a wide range of clothing and footwear in Lot 10, designer bargains at Star Hill Shopping Centre or explore the boutiques in Kuala Lumpur Plaza. Elsewhere, high fashion blends with one of the world’s highest buildings at the Suria KLCC Shopping Centre, tucked away in the basement of the Petronas Twin Towers. On offer are big designer names, such as Hugo Boss, Laura Ashley and Karl Seeger. A brand new mall, Times Square, opened in September 2003 on the fringes of Bintang Walk.

KLIA often feels more like a shopping mall than an international airport and now boasts over 70 retail outlets, with first-rate duty-free shopping.

A galaxy away from the malls are the night markets. Vision KL Magazine publishes a regular update on where and when the best markets are, with the only constant remaining the nightly Jalan Petaling. This Chinatown bulwark peddles CDs, electrical equipment, perfume, watches and clothing, as well as some of the city’s best hawker fare. The best souvenirs are traditional handicrafts like pewterware.
The factory outlet of Kuala Lumpur’s own distinctive Royal Selangor Pewter (website: www.royalselangor.com) is open to the public from 0800-1700 daily, 4 Jalan Ushawan Enam, with free guided tours preceding access to the factory outlet and the world’s largest tankard, which is on display. Batik (Indonesian dyed cloth) may have its roots across the Malacca Straits in Indonesia but today Kuala Lumpur offers some excellent quality batik. A range of batik is found at Central or in Kompleks Budaya Kraf, Jalan Conlay.

Most shops are open 0900-1700 daily, with the malls open later from 1000-2200. Some shops close on Sundays but all of the malls are open. Sales tax is generally around 10%, although some products are taxed at 5% or 15%, or are exempt from sales tax. Tax-free shopping is available; if notified before payment, the shop will give the visitor a form, which can be presented at the airport for refund upon departure.

Culture

Over the last few years, traditional arts and culture have made a comeback in Kuala Lumpur. All over the city, small-scale performances are rubbing shoulders with the more slick revues at theatres and at the Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi (tel: (03) 2274 9966) the scene of tourist-orientated fortune telling, shadow puppets and batik painting demos. The city is also home to the nation’s most renowned orchestra, the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra, which performs regularly. Despite this renaissance in local culture, Western cinema and music still dominate, especially among the younger generation.

The monthly Vision KL Magazine gives listings on events and performances taking place in the city. It is available free of charge from four and five-star hotels and in some bars. There is no umbrella ticketing agency for cultural events in Kuala Lumpur. Tickets are purchased direct from the venue.

Music: For classical music concerts, the main venue in town is Dewan Filharmonik Petronas, in the Petronas Twin Towers complex (tel: (03) 2051 7007; fax: (03) 2051 7077; e-mail: dfp_boxoffice@petronas.com.my; website: www.dfpmpo.com). Malaysia’s first classical concert hall, this is home to the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra and also hosts other major classical concerts as well as cultural performances.

Theatre: The move of Malaysia’s Panggung Negara (National Theatre) to the massive new Istana Budaya theatre, Jalan Tun Razak (tel: (03) 4025 5932; fax: (03) 4025 5975; e-mail: info@istanabudaya.gov.my; website: www.istanabudaya.gov.my), has revolutionised Kuala Lumpur’s theatre scene. With seating for almost 1,500 people, the RM210-million state-of-the-art venue is amongst the best in the world. On a smaller scale, the Actor’s Studio Theatre at the Bangsar Shopping Centre (tel: (03) 2094 0400/1400; fax: (03) 2093 8400; website: www.theactorsstudio.com.my), is a flexible space with all sorts of performances and even some comedy. Two of the most innovative theatre groups are Dramalab (website: www.emuang.org/Dramalab) and Instant Caf (tel: (03) 2148 5192).

Dance: Traditional dance, such as Menora (all masked men) or Mak Yong (all masked women), is sometimes performed. However, there is no one venue or organisation taking charge of this. Some hotels and the Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi (tel: (03) 2274 9966), also stage visiting regional dancers.

Film: Kuala Lumpur has many cinemas spread throughout the city, most of which are located in big shopping malls and have performances in English. Cinema Online (website: www.cinema.com.my) gives a comprehensive listing in English for the following cinemas: GSC Mid Valley (tel: (03) 8312 3456), GSC Capital Selayang (tel: (03) 6138 6311), GSC Cheras Leisure Mall (tel: (03) 8312 3456), TGV Suria KLCC and TGV Mines (tel: (03) 7492 2929), ISWARIA Odeon Theatre (tel: (03) 2694 4995) and UE3 Complex (tel: (03) 9285 4970).

Cultural Events: Owing to the large number of ethnic groups, there are various cultural and religious events around the city throughout the year. Hindus celebrate Thaipusam at the Batu Caves in February, with the bizarre spectacle of kavadi bearers who push skewers into their bodies to demonstrate their religious devotion. Chinese New Year, also at this time of year, is characterised by two weeks of loud street festivities and the ubiquitous lion dances. Unsurprisingly, the epicentre is around Jalan Petaling, with many ethnic Chinese ignoring the government efforts to limit festivities to a two-day holiday and instead taking four or five days off. Buddhists have the less flashy celebration of the birth, enlightenment and death of the Buddha, with Wesak Day in May. The Jalan Gasing or the International Buddhist Temple are the places for one to witness this. The Muslim majority’s main event is Ramadan, in the Muslim month of the same name (falling in October in both 2003 and 2004), the period of fasting that culminates in Hari Raya Aidilfitri, where Muslims throw open their homes and feast on an array of home-cooked Malay dishes. Dates for all of the religious festivals can change markedly depending on the dictates of each religion’s calendar. All creeds and religions come together to celebrate Malaysian independence on 31 August, with a massive parade that brings the city centre to a halt.

Literary Notes: As a relatively new city, there is a distinct lack of English-language fiction set in Kuala Lumpur. Paul Theroux’s Consul’s File (1977) is an excellent collection of short stories set just outside the city. A Malaysian Journey (1993) is an engaging insight into modern Malaysia. Written by an ex-pat Malaysian journalist, Rehman Rashid, it is the story of his return to his native country. The story follows his travels around Malaysia, examining a plethora of issues as he goes and culminating in his emotive return to modern Kuala Lumpur. Steve and Lee Bristow’s Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur (1994) examines Chinatown’s eclectic history and boasts some excellent photographs. Also delving deep into Malaysia’s intriguing past is the Malayan Trilogy (1984) by Anthony Burgess, where the author examines the state of post-war Malaysia and its struggle towards independence from Britain in 1957. For a general historic overview of Malaysian history, Jim Baker’s Crossroads – A Popular History of Malaysia and Singapore (1999) is comprehensive and easy to digest, compared to some of the more scholarly studies of Malaysian history. Giving a unique insight into the most powerful man in Malaysia, the newly retired Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad (Mohamad handed over power to his deputy on 31 October 2003 after an epic 22 years as Prime Minister), is his own Voices of Asia (1995), which looks at his pro-Asian views and his controversial opinions on the world economy and where it should be heading. Stephen Lee’s Outside Looking In – Kuala Lumpur (2000) is a collection of photographs taken at the end of the 1990s that encapsulate life in the city.

Nightlife

With so many different cultures mixing together, the nightlife is anything but dull in Kuala Lumpur. Although Malaysia is a Muslim country, alcohol is freely available in the capital and the nightlife is one of the liveliest in Asia. Strict government controls close many bars by 0100, although some clubs stay open later. The legal drinking age in Kuala Lumpur is 21 years. The average price for a bottle of beer is around RM10-14.

Traditional nightlife for many locals still involves a visit to a bustling pasar malam (night market), where the focus is as much on socialising and people watching as it is on shopping, savouring the excellent hawker food and quaffing ice-cold beer. The Saturday market on Jalan Raja Muda is the highlight, although Jalan Petaling in Chinatown nightly closes itself to traffic and is still a local favourite, despite the presence of many tourists. The main area for bars is in the Golden Triangle, where there are many European-style bars and nightclubs inside the luxury hotels. Over the last few years, the buzzing Jalan Sultan Ismail–Jalan P Ramlee strip has taken over from Jalan Bukit Bintang as the place to be. The dress code veers towards the relaxed side of smart-casual, except in some of the classier establishments frequented by the city’s yuppie brigade. Bangsar, on the city fringe, is now a serious rival to the city centre, with half a dozen streets of bars and eating places packed with a younger crowd.

The monthly Vision KL Magazine gives visitors the low-down on the city’s latest hip nightlife spots. The magazine is available free of charge from 4 and 5-star hotels and is also occasionally available in bars.

Bars: Good bars in the Golden Triangle include El Nino, 21 Jalan Mayang, which is themed around Latin-American music and culture, and Citrus Rouge, 19 Jalan Sultan Ismail, where live jazz, a bustling dance floor, fabulous cocktails, cigar divan and stylish restaurant combine to make this one of the hippest places in town. Nearby, Bravo, Crown Regency, Mezzanine Floor, Jalan P Ramlee, is a bar/caf with a real buzz, a sprinkling of pool tables and a small dance floor. The Beach Club Caf, 97 Jalan P Ramlee, is a wild and nefarious party place that attracts ex-pats, local students and bar girls, with its cheap drinks and buzzing atmosphere. In the Golden Triangle, abstaining Muslims hang out in the numerous cafs on Jalan Bukit Bintang, near the JW Marriott Hotel. In Bangsar, The Roof, 2 Jalan Telawi 4 and Soleil, 7 Jalan Telawi 4, are the bars to look out for. Finnegan’s, 6 Jalan Telawi 5, has emerged as the ‘in’ venue and is the bar most locals point visitors towards, although the high density of single males seems to have attracted an informal bar-girl scene. (Visitors should note that Bangsar, unlike the rest of the city, is built on a grid and the addresses have two numbers, indicating how many streets up and in.)

Casinos: There are no casinos in Kuala Lumpur itself. The country’s only casino, the Genting Casino (website: www.genting.com.my/en/casino), is located 51 kilometres northeast of the city in the Genting Resort. It is possible to get a bus to the resort from the Puduraya Bus Station, but the easiest way to reach Genting is by taxi. The casino is strictly over 21s only.

Clubs: Nightclubs tend to be quite far out of the city and are normally geared towards Kuala Lumpur teenagers, although a number of dancefloors now grace the Golden Triangle. In the city, the best place for a dance is probably the big hotels’ bars. Planet Hollywood and Hard Rock Caf also often have dancing after their live music performances (see below). The Embassy, 26 Jalan Ampang, is a bona fide club in the city centre, considered hip by an increasing number of locals and ex-pats. Emporium, 97 Jalan Sultan Ismail, is one of a new breed of clubs in the Golden Triangle, with an outside terrace and both an indoor bar and dancefloor. The KL smart set ease through cocktails on the outdoor terrace, before delving inside to dance to the tunes spun by the ever-changing domestic and international DJ guests.

Live Music: Unfortunately, in Kuala Lumpur, live music still often means one thing – karaoke. The city is overrun with karaoke bars but a few bastions of live music do survive. The Hard Rock Caf and Planet Hollywood may not be considered the epitome of cool in many parts of the world, but in Kuala Lumpur they are where the trendies troop to for some live music, although this is often provided by dubious cover bands. Follow the noise to The Hard Rock Caf, Concorde Hotel, Jalan Sultan Ismail, and Planet Hollywood, Ground Floor, Kuala Lumpur Plaza, 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang. Often a better bet is TM2, Mutiara Hotel (formerly the Hilton Kuala Lumpur), Jalan Sultan Ismail, which hosts a wide range of live music acts as well as DJs.

City Statistics

Location: Western Peninsula Malaysia.
Country dialling code: 60.
Population: 1.1 million (city); 1.8 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic Mix: 58% Malay, 31% Chinese, 8% Indian, 3% other.
Religion: 58% Muslim, 31% Buddhist, 8% Hindu, 3% Christian, Taoist and Sikh.
Time zone: GMT + 8.
Electricity: 220 volts or 250 volts AC, 50Hz; three-pin flat plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 32C (90F).
Average July temp: 32C (90F).
Annual rainfall: 2,700mm (105 inches).

Special Events

Thaipusam, Hindu celebration, Jan/Feb, Batu Caves
Chinese New Year, temple visits, fireworks, dragon dances and pedestrian parades, Jan/Feb, Chinatown
Federal Territory Day, fireworks, streamers and balloons abound as the city celebrates its birthday, 1 Feb, throughout the city
KL International Tower Jump, this integral part of the Federal Territory Day celebrations sees a six-hour period of base jumping from the towering Menara Kuala Lumpur, 1 Feb, Menara Kuala Lumpur
Chinese New Year, a 15-day celebration that includes lion and dragon dances, February, throughout the city
Malaysia Sevens International Rugby Tournament, Mar, Petaling Jaya Stadium
Awal Muharram (Muslim New Year), celebrated by attendance at religious talks and performances of spiritual singing or Nasyid, 1 Muharram, Feb, throughout the city
Wesak Day, Buddhist celebration of the birth of Buddha, May, throughout the city, particularly Jalan Gasing and the International Buddhist Temple
Prophet Muhammed’s Birthday, processions to show solidarity of believers, 12 Rabi’ I, May, throughout the city
Colours of Malaysia, a month-long celebration of Malaysian culture featuring traditional performances, fantastic costumes and exquisite food, June, throughout the city
Merdeka Celebrations, a month-long festival celebrating Malaysia’s independence, Aug-Sep, throughout the city
Merdeka Eve Celebrations, celebration of Malaysia’s independence with carnival-style festivities and a countdown to midnight, end of Aug, Independence Square
KL International Gourmet Festival, a month-long celebration of gourmet food with the city’s top restaurants creating special menus, Sep, at participating restaurants
KL International Motor Show, one of the largest motor shows in South East Asia, Sep, Putra World Trade Centre
Moon Festival, Chinese celebration of the 15th night of the 8th lunar month, with colourful lanterns and gifts of moon cakes, Sep, Chinatown
Ramadan, Muslim fasting, throughout Ramadan, Oct, throughout the city
Deepavali, the ‘Festival of Light’ is the main Hindu celebration commemorating the triumph of good over evil, when homes light up with oil lamps, Oct/Nov, throughout the city
F1 Petronas Malaysia Grand Prix, Oct, Sepang International Circuit
Hari Raya Aidilfitri, two days of joyful celebration marking the end of Ramadan, Oct, throughout the city
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival, another discounted shopping bonanza featuring Malaysian Fashion Week and Made in Malaysia exhibition, Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: RM2.80
33cl bottle of beer: RM5
Financial Times newspaper: RM9
36-exposure colour film: From RM16
City-centre bus ticket: RM0.60-1
Adult football ticket: RM60
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From RM40

1 Malaysian Ringgit (RM1) = 0.14; US$0.26; C$0.33; A$0.34; 0.20
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005