World City Guide

Mini Guide of Jerusalem

City Overview

Few other cities have the ability to inspire quite as much passion as the Old City of Jerusalem (Yerushalayim in Hebrew, Al-Quds in Arabic). Revered by three of the major world religions, it is no wonder that the history of the city is marked by political and religious turmoil. For Christians, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is thought to contain the tomb where Jesus was laid to rest after the Crucifixion, having carried the cross through the city along the Via Dolorosa. The Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount is Islam’s third most important religious site (after Mecca and Medina), and it is from here that Muhammad is believed to have ascended to heaven. The Wailing Wall at the foot of Temple Mount is all that remains of Jerusalem’s second temple and is Judaism’s most important place of prayer. With its pleasant, temperate climate, Jerusalem provides a unique opportunity to experience at close hand the contrasting opposites of ancient and modern, oriental and western, heavenly and earthly.

Every visitor to Jerusalem soon realises that the city is fundamentally divided and has seen many periods of conflict that continues to this day. Israel proclaimed Jerusalem its capital in 1950 but this is not internationally recognised. Modern Jerusalem is divided in two parts: West Jerusalem, which has been part for the state of Israel since the country’s establishment in 1948, and East Jerusalem, which belonged to Jordan from 1948 to 1967, when it was formally annexed by Israel. West Jerusalem is the extensive Jewish part of the city, which includes the modern centre of the city, and it is in many ways a tribute to the economic growth and prosperity Israel has enjoyed since its foundation and is characterised by leafy suburbs, smart cafes and outgoing nightlife.

East Jerusalem, by contrast, offers very different charms. Predominantly Arab, it has its own more relaxed pace of life, and street markets instead of shopping malls. However, the bullet holes that scar many of the houses in the neighbourhoods are a reminder of the political conflict that resonates in the Middle East and a comment on East Jerusalem’s relative economic neglect. East Jerusalem is heavily policed, particularly in the current tense situation.

It is in the midst of these two contrasting halves that the Old City is to be found: with the exception of the museums on the western edge of town, most of Jerusalem’s main sights are found here. Into this small area of land, less than one square kilometre (200 acres), is crammed a labyrinth of streets enclosed within walls of limestone dating back to the 16th century and the reign of the Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent. This, the focus of all Jerusalem’s historical and religious divisions, is where the majority of visitors to the city will spend most of their time. The Old City is divided into quarters, named after the four communities that inhabited it during the Middle Ages: Arab, Jewish, Christian and Armenian. Its network of winding streets offers the chance to step back almost literally in time to savour the feel of cheek-by-jowl Middle Eastern life. Within yards, you may wander from the hustle and bustle of an Arab souk into the quiet calm of an Armenian garden before ending up before the splendour of a medieval citadel. There is no other city that demands and offers quite so much.

Since the start of the second Intifada (Palestinian uprising) in 2000, there have been frequent attacks by suicide bombers, with a high proportion of these in Jerusalem. These attacks have taken place in a variety of locations around the city and in areas frequented by tourists, so visitors should maintain a high level of vigilance when travelling anywhere in Jerusalem, and to follow local advice.

Getting There By Air

Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV)
Tel: (03) 975 5555.
Website: www.iaa.gov.il/Rashat/en-US/Airports/BenGurion/

Ben Gurion International Airport, also known as Tel Aviv Airport, is located near Lod on the main Tel Aviv-Jerusalem highway (Highway 1), about 25km (15 miles) southeast of Tel Aviv and approximately 45km (29 miles) west of Jerusalem. It is Israel’s principal hub for international and domestic air traffic, served by over 47 airlines and with two terminals designed to handle up to 12 million passengers each year. Work to build terminal three is currently under way.

Whether flying in or out of Israel, the check-in period is always at least three hours prior to departure. To date, all passengers are normally subject to one-to-one interview by security personnel but this is being phased out in favor of high-tech scanning machines.

Airport facilities: Facilities include 24-hour banks, restaurants, duty-free shops, general shops, post office and 24-hour tourist information. Avis, Budget, Eldan, Eurodollar, Europcar, Hertz and Thrifty all provide car hire services. It is worth noting that most airport services (including public transport) are reduced on Shabbat (approximately Friday 1700 to Saturday 1700).

Transport to the city: Buses to Jerusalem, operated by the Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/), leave the airport every 25-45 minutes 0630-2140. The bus stop is outside the airport arrivals building, opposite parking lot number one. Bus numbers for Jerusalem are nos. 405, 423, 945 and 947; tickets can be bought on the bus. Buses terminate at Jerusalem’s Central Bus Station on Jaffa Road in west Jerusalem. Taxis are located on the right outside the airport arrivals hall. The Nesher Company (tel: (02) 623 1231) runs a sherut (shared taxi) service between the airport and Jerusalem, charging a fixed rate per passenger. For an extra charge, they will take passengers and their baggage to (or collect from) anywhere in the city.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Israel has an excellent road network and, because the country is relatively small with varied scenery, travelling by car can be a great pleasure. However, the major roads can be very congested, so motorists are advised to allow plenty of time for journeys. Traffic drives on the right and road rules are similar to those in Western Europe and North America. The minimum legal driving age in Israel is 18 years, while the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. All passengers must wear seatbelts at all times and children under 14 should not travel in the front seat. Road signs are international, distances given are in kilometres and all signposting on major roads is in Hebrew, Arabic and English. The speed limit is 100kph (62mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on intercity roads and 50kph (31mph) within towns. It is compulsory to carry either a national driving licence from any country or an International Driving Permit. Insurance is mandatory in Israel and is organised by the government. Visitors driving their own vehicles can purchase the insurance through a local agent. The certificate must be carried in the car at all times – a photocopy is not acceptable. A departure tax is payable for those who leave Israel by land if they arrived in the country by air.

The Automobile and Touring Club of Israel - MEMSI (tel: (03) 564 1122; website: www.memsi.co.il/ , Hebrew only) provides information and assistance, with free services for members of affiliated motoring organisations, such as the AAA (in the USA) and the AA and RAC (in the UK).

Emergency breakdown service:
MEMSI (03) 564 1111

Routes to the city: From Tel Aviv (and Ben Gurion International Airport), Highway One runs to Jerusalem. Further north, Israel’s only motorway, the Ayalon Highway, runs from Haifa to Tel Aviv. These two roads would be the route to Jerusalem from the north; however, from the east, the city is reached by the Yeriho (or Jericho) Road from Jericho, Qumran and the Dead Sea. This road divides as it approaches the city, giving drivers the choice of entering via Arab districts of east Jerusalem or circling to approach from the west.

Coach services: The Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888, website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/), a worker-owned co-operative, is Israel’s national bus and coach service operator. The comprehensive network of buses to all parts of the country depart from Jerusalem’s Central Bus Station, on Jaffa Road, west Jerusalem (tel: (02) 530 4704). Services come to a complete halt for Shabbat (generally from around 1500 on Friday to about 1900 on Saturday).

Coach services also run from Jerusalem into Egypt and Jordan. They can be booked from Metzada Tours, 9 Koresh Street (tel: (02) 623 5777, website: www.mazada.co.il/express.htm), departing daily from Koresh Street, or from Aviv Tours (tel: (03) 604 1811, website: www.aviv-tours.com), departing daily from the Jett agency, 3 Ben Sira Street. To travel to Amman, in Jordan, it is necessary to catch an Arab bus from the East Jerusalem Bus Station, at Sultan Suleiman Street (beside the Old City), to the Jordan border crossing at Allenby Bridge (also known as King Hussein Bridge). As this involves going through the West Bank, it is not recommended given the current security situation.

Getting There By Rail

Israel Railways (tel: (03) 577 4000 or 5770; website: www.israrail.org.il/english) is the national rail provider. The railways in Israel, previously an unused remnant of British Palestine, are undergoing a rapid revival and expansion, with new, modern air-conditioned trains being brought into service and new railway track being laid. This massive upgrade means that many of the services may be suspended or disrupted.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/), provides an inexpensive, comfortable, efficient urban bus system within west Jerusalem, as well as elsewhere. All routes are based out of the Central Bus Station (tel: (02) 530 4704) on Jaffa Road. Bus services run daily, except on the Sabbath (Friday afternoon to Saturday evening) or on Jewish religious holidays. Ordinary one-way tickets are purchased from the driver. All drivers speak at least enough English to deal with basic enquiries.

Visitors planning to spend more than a few days in Jerusalem should consider buying a kartissiyah, a multi-fare punch card that offers 11 journeys for the price of 10. There is also a special card called hofshi-hodshi (‘freedom for a month’) that is good for one month of unlimited travel on urban buses. The price is equal to 40 ordinary one-way tickets.

Egged buses do not generally cross the ‘Green Line’ into the West Bank, except for the annexed areas, such as Gilo, which are now considered to be fully integrated districts of the city of Jerusalem. Egged buses also travel to the Jewish towns and settlements on the West Bank, many of which are near Jerusalem. Arab bus companies, serving east Jerusalem, as well as Arab towns within Israel and the West Bank, operate from the East Jerusalem Bus Station, at Sultan Suleiman Street, or on Nablus Road, both near Damascus Gate. These buses are painted blue or green and white, and while they tend to be crowded and rickety, they’re cheap and run daily, including Friday and Saturday. Payment is made to the driver upon boarding.

Buses have been a favourite target of suicide bombers and some visitors may feel that bus travel is too risky. Despite the fact that Israeli bus drivers are highly trained to anticipate and deal with danger, this has proved inadequate when dealing with the particular threat of suicide attackers. However, buses remain the most popular and economical form of transport and Israelis are still using them as normal. Bombers can, of course, strike anywhere, not only on buses. It is safer to take long-distance non-stop buses, which depart from a central bus station (where there is high security), rather than buses that stop frequently to pick up more passengers. Visitors who notice anyone or anything suspicious (while waiting for a bus, boarding a bus or during a journey) should walk quickly up to the front of the bus and tell the driver immediately, even if the bus is moving. All bus drivers speak some English.

Taxis
Taxis, which look like ordinary cars with a coloured light displayed, are legally required to use a meter for every journey. However, travellers sometimes need to insist that the meter be turned on. If, as frequently happens, the driver claims that the meter is ‘broken’, it is wise either to agree a fare beforehand or find another taxi. To avoid being cheated, it is worth asking your hotel receptionist or the tourist office for some idea of what the fare to specific destinations should be. Taxis can be hailed in the street or booked in advance. About 20 different taxi companies ply the streets of Jerusalem, including the popular Nesher Taxis (tel: (02) 623 1231), based at the intersection of Ben Yehuda Street and King George V Avenue in west Jerusalem, right across from the City Tower. Other recommended taxi companies are listed on the Jerusalem city website (www.jerusalem.muni.il). In the present situation, for safety reasons, many west Jerusalem taxi drivers prefer not to go into Arab districts at all. Fares are 25% higher at night and on Shabbat. Tipping is not usual, and not expected, although a very small gratuity of say 5% is sometimes given.

Sherutim
An alternative to a taxi or bus is the popular sherut (literally ‘service’, ie service taxi; the plural in Hebrew is sherutim, but visitors should be aware that this also means ‘toilets’). These shared taxis are usually stretched Mercedes or minibuses, seating seven or 12, and they generally follow fixed public bus routes. However, they allow passengers to get on and off anywhere on the journey and may take alternative routes when necessary to dodge heavy traffic. Delays are rare and passengers should board quickly as drivers pull away sharply – both drivers and passengers are very impatient of anyone holding things up. Some sheruts run on Shabbat. Sherut fares are about the same as bus fares, Sheruts running regular set routes within the city are mostly only available in west Jerusalem, but will go to other areas on request (for a fee). They also serve as a popular way of travelling from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv or the airport.

Driving in the City
Driving in all parts of Jerusalem, except the Old City, is fairly straightforward, although traffic on the main roads is bad and driving tends to be aggressive. For most sightseeing or getting around in central west Jerusalem, it is more enjoyable to walk or use local buses. Vehicles are only permitted to enter the Old City through Jaffa Gate, following the road through the Armenian Quarter, where there is limited parking. Alternatively, the Karta parking lot, below the walls of the Old City, near Jaffa Gate, has space for 5,000 vehicles and is open six days a week (closed on Shabbat).

Much of Israel uses the EasyPark smartcard system, an in-car electronic device (about the size of a pocket calculator), which automatically deducts the cost of street parking from the driver’s credit or debit card and which can be read electronically by parking attendants. Most locals have one of these devices in their cars, but it is also possible to buy traditional parking cards. These can be obtained from street kiosks, post offices and gas stations. The traditional parking card is a strip of paper with punched tabs for the hours of the day; drivers tear a tab to designate the month, day and hour they parked. Five different kerbside colour codes indicate what parking is permitted – blue and white means parking is allowed with pre-paid parking cards only. Visitors should not park where there is any other kerbside colour as they all represent restrictions and parking regulations are rigorously enforced.

Car Hire
The majority of car hire companies are located in central west Jerusalem. If a car is hired locally, rental fees are moderate, pre-booking through an agency abroad may result in a higher price. Rates tend to go up at peak holiday times. To rent a car, drivers must be over 24 years and in possession of a full national driving licence with at least two years’ driving experience, insurance and an international credit card. Car hire companies will not allow hire cars to be driven into the West Bank at the moment.

Eldan, 24 King David Street (tel: (02) 625 2151/2/3; website: www.eldan.co.il), is the main Israeli car hire company. It has a user-friendly website accepting secure online payment and offers substantial price discounts for Internet bookings. International companies include Avis, 22 King David Street (tel: (02) 624 9001; website: www.avis.co.il), Budget Rent-A-Car, 23 King David Street (tel: (02) 624 8991; website: www.budget.co.il) and Hertz, 18 King David Street (tel: (02) 623 1351 or 625 6334; website: www.hertz.com).

Bicycle Hire
Despite the hills, cycling is popular in Jerusalem. Unfortunately, as in most major cities, there is something of a love-hate relationship between cyclists and motorists (particularly during rush hour, when traffic is intense and tempers are even shorter than usual). Recently, cycling organisations have been making an effort to increase public awareness about two-wheeled commuters and the need for better cycling paths. This has bolstered an interest in cycling and has inspired the ongoing construction of a bike path around Jerusalem, as well as the fact that some now consider the bicycle a safer means of getting around than public transport, which has often been targeted by suicide bombers.

However, bike hire in the city is almost unknown. The Jerusalem Cyclists Club, 16 Harazim Street (tel: (02) 643 8386) may be able to advise, while a useful website for cyclists visiting Israel is The Green Wheelers (Mountain Biking in Israel) (website: www.geocities.com/ron5506), who organise cycle rides and tours all over Israel.

Business

Business Etiquette
Jerusalem has an informal approach to business etiquette. Suits and ties may be worn but more relaxed ‘smart-casual’ clothing, while doing business or attending meetings, is more usual. In business life as in other personal dealings, Israelis tend to be direct and straightforward – plain speaking is much appreciated. Business hours in Jerusalem are 0830-1730/1800 Sunday to Thursday. On Fridays, businesses shut at 1230 for the Sabbath (Shabbat), which starts at sundown on Friday and continues until Saturday evening. Business meetings may be held over dinner and can take place in a private home or in restaurants. If in a private home, a small gift (of flowers or chocolates, for example) is usually appropriate.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The compact size of Israel means that almost anywhere (with the exception of Eilat) is accessible for a day trip from Jerusalem. The coastal cities of Tel Aviv, Akko and Haifa can easily be visited in a day, as can the area around the Sea of Galilee and even (in a long day) the Golan Heights. There is enough to see in most of these places to merit a longer visit but, in terms of historical and religious sites, none of them can match Jerusalem. The first stop for any visitor has to be the Old City, which contains the sacred sites that have caused such turmoil and unrest marking Jerusalem’s history and still felt today. The Old City is divided into quarters (the Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim) each with its unique identity and character.

When sightseeing or just exploring, visitors should be aware of the intense campaign of terrorism being waged against Israel. Popular crowded venues, such as busy street markets, restaurants and cafs, crowded buses, discos, have especially been targeted by suicide bombers. Security guards have now been posted at the doorways or entrances to most such locations and it is advisable to be wary of venues that have not put any security measures in place. To date, tourist sights have not been struck by the bombers, and Arab areas or Muslim sights are unlikely to be hit.

Tourist Information
Israeli Government Tourist Office (IGTO)
Visitors Centre, Jaffa Gate, Old City
Tel: (03) 627 1422 or (02) 26 754 811.
Website: www.infotour.co.il or www.jerusalem.muni.il
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0900-1630, Fri 0900-1300.

Another tourist information is the Christian Information Centre, Jaffa Gate, Old City (tel: (02) 627 2692; website: www.cicts.org). The Visitors Centre in West Jerusalem at Safra Square is temporarily closed.

Passes
A two-day pass for the no. 99 bus, which gives a guided tour of the city, will allow discounted entry to the Israel Museum, Tower of David Museum and the Biblical Zoo. It can be bought at ticket offices at these sites or from the bus drivers (see Bus Tours in Tours of the City).

Key Attractions

Temple Mount
Temple Mount (Har Habayit in Hebrew, Al Haram ash-Sharif in Arabic), also called Mount Moriah, is sacred to both Islam and Judaism. It is a natural hill, which was built up artificially to support the huge Jewish Temple that stood here in Biblical times. Temple Mount has remained the focus of the Jewish religion ever since – when praying, Jews worldwide still face Temple Mount.

It was from a black rock within the complex, where, according to the Koran, Muhammad made his ascension to Heaven at the conclusion of his ‘Night Ride’ from Mecca and in the bible where Abraham offered Isaac for sacrifice. With the arrival of Islam in the seventh century, the octagonal, blue-tiled Dome of the Rock, with its huge gold dome, was built over the large black rock. Dominating the skyline of the Old City, its dome glinting in the sunshine, this beautiful building is Jerusalem’s most famous landmark and an absolute must for visitors.

Also on Temple Mount is the Al Aqsa Mosque, the oldest mosque in Israel and (unlike the Dome of the Rock) an actual place of Muslim worship. Its silver dome dates from the 11th century. The Islamic Museum, the third building within the complex, contains Islamic artefacts and relics. Only one of the 10 gates to the complex, Al-Mughradia (Moors) gate, allows entry for non-worshippers. This is located to the right of the Western Wall and is accessed from Western Wall Plaza. However, the complex is currently closed to non-Muslims.

Temple Mount, Old City
Website: www.al-aqsa.com (Muslim site) or www.templemount.org (Jewish site)
Opening hours: Closed during all prayer times (variable); otherwise Sun-Thurs 0730-1030 and 1230-1330; Sun-Thurs 0730-1030 (during Ramadan); closed to non-Muslims Fri and Muslim holidays. During periods of tension, the site may be closed.
Free admission for Temple Mount; charge for Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque and Islamic Museum combined ticket.

Western Wall
Situated along one side of a vast plaza at the bottom of Temple Mount the historic Western Wall (HaKotel in Hebrew). Also known as the Wailing Wall from the Jews chanting lamentations on Tisha b’Av, the annual fast, mourning the destruction of the Temple. The Western Wall, constructed of massive rough blocks of golden stone, is a remnant of the outer retaining walls of the Second Temple as reconstructed by Herod in 30BC (the First Temple, constructed by Solomon, occupied the same site but was destroyed by the Babylonians).

Since the final complete destruction of the Temple by the Romans in AD70, the Western Wall has been the holiest place of prayer for the Jewish people. Jews come from all over the world to pray or to contemplate. Some place notes with hopes, dreams and messages of goodwill in the cracks of the Wall. In keeping with Orthodox Jewish practice (because the entire site is technically an Orthodox synagogue) the length of the Wall has been divided into separate sections for men and women. Any man or woman may enter their respective section, provided men have their heads covered (visitors can borrow a kippah or skullcap when entering) and women are modestly dressed. The Wall can be reached either through the Dung Gate or through the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.

Temple Mount, Old City
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Citadel or Tower of David
The tall, slender stone tower rising elegantly from the ancient walls of the Old City is almost as familiar an image of Jerusalem as the Dome of the Rock. But despite its name, the Citadel has nothing to do with King David (the city’s founder) and was in fact constructed in the first century BC, as a fortress for Herod the Great. It has therefore formed part of Jerusalem’s defence structure for over 2,000 years. What remains today is largely medieval. It now houses the outstanding Museum of the History of Jerusalem, which vividly chronicles the entire history of the city. The Citadel’s tallest tower, the Phasael, offers a superb panorama over the Old City. The main entrance is adjacent to Jaffa Gate.

Armenian Patriarchate Road, Old City
Tel: (02) 626 5333.
Website: www.towerofdavid.org.il
Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-1400 (Apr-Oct); Sat-Thurs 1000-1600, Fri 1000-1400 (Nov-Mar).
Admission charge.

Via Dolorosa
The Via Dolorosa (literally ‘Road of Sorrow’) is the route believed to have been walked by Jesus as he carried the Cross to his crucifixion at Calvary or Golgotha. The route begins at the Lion’s Gate, passes through the Muslim Quarter and leads to the Calvary in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is marked along the way by the 14 Stations of the Cross. The stations indicate events along the journey and at some of these points churches have been founded. Every year, tens of thousands of pilgrims walk this route in the belief that they are following in the footsteps of Christ.

Via Dolorosa, Old City
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Containing the last five Stations of the Cross of the Via Dolorosa, this is the holiest Christian site in Jerusalem. Upon entering the church, the little stairway to the right lead to the Chapel of Golgotha and three Stations of the Cross – where Jesus was stripped, crucified and removed from the cross. The Sepulchre itself is at the centre of the church and marks where Jesus is believed to have been buried and resurrected. Downstairs is the Angel’s Chapel, where the resurrected Christ made known himself to Mary Magdalene. The site of the church was first chosen in the fourth century by Queen Helena and the existing structure dates mainly from the period of the Crusades. It is divided into sections, which are each under the jurisdiction of a different Christian denomination. Protestants do not accept that this was the site of the Crucifixion or Resurrection.

Via Dolorosa, Old City
Tel: (02) 627 3314.
Opening hours: Daily 0530-2100 (summer); daily 0430-2000 (winter).
Free admission.

Yad Vashem
The name of this, the world’s most important Holocaust memorial, means ‘A Hand and a Name’, the word hand being used for a memorial and implying that every victim will be individually remembered. Yad Vashem (or the Holocaust Martyrs’ and Heroes’ Remembrance Authority) is located on the western edge of Jerusalem. It is best known as a monument to the devastation wreaked upon the Jewish people by the Nazis during World War II. There are indoor and outdoor exhibits, including museums, memorials, sculpture and a research and documentation centre. The tree-lined Avenue of the Righteous Among the Nations commemorates and honours non-Jews who risked their lives to save Jews and leads to the Historical Museum, Yad Vashem’s centrepiece, where the course of Hitler’s ‘Final Solution’ is traced.

The Hall of Remembrance is a solemn tent-like structure that allows visitors to pay their respects to the dead. Also contained within the Yad VaShem complex is the wooded, walled Valley of the Communities, recording the names of Jewish communities wiped out in their entirety, and the Hall of Names, where the names and details of over three and a half million individual victims have been recorded and are being constantly added to. There is also a poignant Art Museum, containing work produced by Jewish inmates of the death camps. Possibly the most moving, however, is the Children’s Memorial, where, in a dark underground chamber, names from the list of 1.5 million children murdered in the Holocaust are constantly read out.

Har Hazikaron (near Mount Herzl), west Jerusalem
Tel: (02) 644 3400.
Website: www.yad-vashem.org.il
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0900-1700, Fri 0900-1400.
Free admission.

The Israel Museum
The Israel Museum is the nation’s leading showcase for its archaeology, anthropology and art. It houses a vast number of fascinating exhibits relating to the long history and culture of the Jews in the region. Among the highlights are the modern sculptures of the Art Garden, the 20th-century artworks of the Art Pavilion, and the Archaeological Galleries, where major discoveries are displayed. In the Ethnography and Judaica wing, exhibits include a collection of ancient Jewish artefacts. A Youth Wing features hands-on activities for families and art classes for children.

The museum’s greatest treasure is contained in a striking separate building called the Shrine of the Book. Resembling the lid of an earthenware jar, this structure was created to hold and display the Dead Sea Scrolls and other ancient manuscripts. Discovered beside the Dead Sea at Qumran in 1947, the Scrolls consist of the oldest known scripts of the Torah or Pentateuch (the first five books of the Old Testament), as well as the enigmatic scrolls of an austere, scholarly Jewish sect apparently resident at Qumran.

Ruppin Boulevard (near the Knesset), west Jerusalem
Tel: (02) 670 8811.
Website: www.imj.org.il
Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Sat and holidays 1000-1600, Tues 1600-2100, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri 1000-1400.
Admission charge.

Further Distractions

Mount of Olives
Rising beyond the city walls, to the east of Temple Mount, the Mount of Olives is part of the range of hills surrounding Jerusalem. The olives that gave the place its name were cut down in Roman times and the western slope is now covered by the white tombs of the largest Jewish cemetery in the world. Tragically, it was badly damaged during the Jordanian occupation (1948-1967), when stones were smashed and defaced and many were removed to be used for construction. Among both Jews and Christians, is the belief that the resurrection of the dead will begin on the Mount of Olives. The mountain has added religious significance for Christians, as the place Jesus came on the night before his arrest and trial. The Garden of Gethsemane, which Jesus visited after the Last Supper, lies at the foot of the slope. The supposed tomb of his mother, Mary, is a Byzantine and Crusader structure reached through a fine doorway that leads to an underground shrine containing various tombs. Although medieval, these are said to be the actual graves of Mary, her parents and her husband Joseph. At the summit of the mount, an Arab village named Et-Tur affords a stunning panorama of the Old City.

Mount of Olives, East Jerusalem
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Montefiore Windmill
Situated in the downtown area of west Jerusalem, the Montefiore Windmill is one of the oldest and most famous landmarks outside the Old City. It was built by an Anglo-Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore, in 1858 in an attempt to provide a source of employment for the city’s poor immigrant Jewish population. With the windmill and two rows of houses he set about establishing the first Jewish Quarter outside the walls of the Old City. Never much used as a windmill, it was damaged during the 1948 war that led to the establishment of Israel. Today it has been restored by the Jerusalem Foundation, and the houses form a Jewish Artist’s Colony with a music centre and guesthouse, while the windmill has become a museum dedicated to the life of Montefiore.

West Jerusalem
Tel: 02) 675 1711.
Website: www.jerusalemfoundation.org/home.php
Opening hours: Sun-Thu 0900-1600; Fri 0090-1300.
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Leaflets and information on the many government and private tours of the city and surrounding area can be found at the Visitors Centre, Jaffa Gate, Old City (tel: (03) 627 1422), and Christian Information Centre, Jaffa Gate, Old City (tel: (02) 627 2692; website: www.cicts.org). City tours start at 1000 every Saturday from the entrance to the Russian Compound, Cheshin Street, west Jerusalem. No booking is necessary and the tours are free. Zion Walking Tours (tel: (02) 628 7866) provides a three-hour tour of the city (fee). The tourist office also hires out cassettes, for self-guided walking tours. For an overview of the city, there is the Ramparts Walk. Built by Suleiman the Magnificent, the ramparts of the Old City are the most complete of any medieval walls standing today. Entrance is from Jaffa Gate, Damascus Gate and from the Moat Fort. The walk can be completed Saturday to Thursday 0900-1600 and Friday 0900-1400, tickets are valid for two days. Ramparts Walk is subject to tight security and is often closed – check first with the tourist office.

Bus Tours
The Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/), and United Tours, 9 Coresh Street (tel: (02) 625 2187; website: www.inisrael.com/united/index3.html), are the main operators of coach tours in and around Jerusalem. Similar tours can be arranged (sometimes more cheaply) through numerous smaller private companies. A useful introduction to the city is the bus route 99, which is operated by Egged and known as the circle line because it takes passengers on a circular tour of the city. It starts at the Jaffa Gate and stops at 26 of Jerusalem’s tourist sites. One-day hop-on-hop-off tickets are available on the bus or in advance (tel: (02) 530 4704). The excursion is available between 1000-1600, departing every two hours.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Bethlehem: Situated just 12km (7 miles) south of central Jerusalem, the ancient biblical town of Bethlehem, which lies just across the ‘Green Line’ in the West Bank, is an obvious, satisfying excursion from the city. Unfortunately, security considerations have made it difficult and sometimes dangerous to visit during the last two years. It is very important to check the current situation before travelling to the town. Visitors should keep abreast through English-language daily newspapers, such as The Jerusalem Post (website: www.jpost.com), but also check with locals before planning a trip.

Bethlehem is known worldwide as the birthplace of Jesus Christ, born, according to the New Testament, in a food trough in a cattle shed. However, Bethlehem also appears in the scriptures nearly 2,000 years before Jesus, as the burial place of Rachel, wife of Jacob. The events of the Book of Ruth took place here, too, and this was also the birthplace of King David. The town is therefore of great importance to Christians and Jews alike, and many of the Arabs living here are Christians rather than Muslim. In the fourth century, a cave was selected as the exact place where Jesus was born and the Church of the Nativity erected over the site. The ornate and atmospheric medieval church, standing along one side of Manger Square is the focal point for any visit. The Cave of the Nativity is reached by going down some steps inside the church and a star on the floor shows where Jesus was supposedly born. Other sites in and around Bethlehem include the Shepherds’ Field and Grotto and, on the Jerusalem side of town, Rachel’s Tomb – however, these are both particularly dangerous spots at present. Away from the rather tawdry tourist sights, Bethlehem is a charming small Arab town. The Palestinian National Authority (PNA) tourist information centre (tel: (02) 074 1581) is located on the southern side of Manger Square, but is currently closed. The PNA also have official websites (www.bethlehem2000.org and www.visit-palestine.com), which give some information about the town, but neither has been updated since they were first put up in 1999, before the start of the intifada.

If Bethlehem can be safely visited, it can be easily reached by sherut (shared taxi) from Jerusalem. Sheruts leave from opposite the Old City’s Damascus Gate and follow the Hebron Road. A passport is necessary to show at checkpoints.

For a Whole Day

Masada: Situated on an isolated flat mountain top in the Judean Desert and overlooking the Dead Sea, Masada (pronounced ‘matzada’ in Hebrew and meaning ‘fortress’) was the scene of the final heroic Jewish resistance against the Romans. The group of Jewish zealots who had fled with their families to Masada realised that they faced imminent defeat and, rather than surrender to the Romans, all 967 men, women and children committed suicide. The extensive ruins include Herod’s Palace (tel: (08) 658 4207), the synagogue, the fortress, an elaborate bathhouse and much more. Guided tours are available.

Masada (tel: (07) 658 4117/8; website: www.parks.org.il) is run as a national park. It is open Saturday to Thursday 0800-1700 (until 1600 Oct-Mar) and Friday 0500-1500 (cable car operates from 0800. There is an admission charge with the cable car costing extra. Masada lies on Route 90 close to the Dead Sea, 22km (14 miles) east of the desert town of Arad, and 20km (12 miles) south of Ein-Gedi. Approaching from the east, the road ends at the parking lot at the foot of the mountain. From there the ascent is either by the cable car, or by walking up the Snake Path – a tiring climb taking just under an hour. From the west, the road ends at the western parking lot, from which there is a 15- to 20-minute easy climb to the top. Masada can be reached by bus 444, 486 or 487 from west Jerusalem.

Ein Gedi Spa, Dead Sea: Located on the western shore, the Ein Gedi Spa (tel: (08) 659 4760 or 4813; website: www.inisrael.com/eingedi/spa.htm), offers a chance to float in the Dead Sea, relax in its sulphur pools and enjoy its excellent restaurant. Bathers can be covered in black mud before going for a dunking in the sea, which, at some 400m (1,320ft) below sea level, is the lowest point on earth. Famous for its curative powers, the Dead Sea is the saltiest and most mineral-laden body of water in the world. The Ein Gedi Spa is open Saturday to Thursday 0700-1800, and Friday 0700-1700 (admission charge). It can be reached by bus 421, 444 or 486 from west Jerusalem.

It is possible to combine the Masada and Ein Gedi Spa in a day with one of the tours run by the Egged National Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 694 8888; website: www.egged.co.il/Eng/).

Sport

Shopping

The Old City has much to offer, with the narrow, colourful souk that follows the Street of the Chain from Jaffa Gate into the Muslim Quarter. Tiny open-fronted shops sell souvenirs of olive wood, silverwork, mother-of-pearl, leather and hand-blown glass. Arabic sweets and pastries are also plentiful. Bargaining here is standard practice and shoppers can generally get about one quarter off the asking price. As the Muslim Quarter leads into the Christian Quarter, souvenirs take the form of religious artefacts.

Continuing into the Old City’s Jewish Quarter, the Cardo has several exclusive shops selling clothing and objets d’art. Several hundred shops are listed by the Ministry of Tourism and display a special emblem as a symbol of fair pricing. These carry a range of goods from exclusive jewellery and diamonds to oriental carpets, ladies wear and leather goods. Bargaining is not usual in Jewish shops and markets, although asking for a ‘discount’ on some pretext can sometimes bring an immediate price reduction.

In west Jerusalem, shops and streets are much the same as in southern Europe. For traditional crafts and Judaica head for the House of Quality, the Hutzot Hayotser Arts and Crafts Lane, Yochanan Migush Halav Street and the Mea Shearin area. There are also large shopping malls, such as Jerusalem Mall in Malcha Street.

Shopping in east Jerusalem maintains a strongly Arabic, Middle Eastern feel. The hub of this district is Damascus Gate, where traders gather daily, from dawn to dusk, to sell anything from household wares to fresh farm produce. This market is full of life and bustle and (unlike the markets of the Muslim Quarter) sells to locals as well as tourists.Opening hours for shops are generally Sunday to Thursday 0900-1900 (some close daily between 1300 and 1600). Most shops and businesses in west Jerusalem are closed on Friday and Saturday (Shabbat). The Muslim Quarter and east Jerusalem are also quieter on Saturday. Trading on Friday, the Muslim holy day, is also quite restrained. Christian-owned shops close on Sundays.

Value Added Tax (VAT), at a current rate of 18.25%, is quoted in the price of all goods and services. Tourists buying goods at shops listed by the Ministry of Tourism may be entitled to claim the tax back, provided the purchase cost US$50 or more and payment was made in foreign currency. Shoppers must obtain a special invoice at the time of purchase. The form must be filled out and submitted at the airport and the refund is generally issued by post.

Culture

Israel appears at first sight to be a brash, assertive society. However, to see Israelis express themselves in music is to realise the underlying emotional depth of this nation. It is striking that most buskers here are playing classical music. Several world-class classical music events take place in Israel, including the International Harp Contest held every three years (the next one, which will be the 16th, is scheduled for 2006). In addition, there are important classical music festivals, such as those at Kibbutz Ein Gev and the Kibbutz Kfar Blum. The Israel Festival, bringing a high-culture mix of music, drama and dance, turns Jerusalem into the world’s cultural stage for three weeks in May and June.

The Jerusalem Centre for the Performing Arts, 20 Marcus Street (tel: (02) 560 5757/55), in the German Colony area of west Jerusalem, serves as the city’s unofficial cultural centre. This venue and the Jerusalem Film Center, Hebron Road (tel: (02) 565 4333; website: www.jer-cin.org.il) (the city’s trendy centre for arthouse films) are worth visiting in their own right, as places to absorb the buzz of creativity amongst Israel’s most talented performers.

The best ticket agencies for nearly all concerts and theatre performances in Jerusalem are the Bimot, 8 Shamai Street (tel: (02) 624 0896), the Klaim, 12 Shamai Street (tel: (02) 625 6869), and the Ben Nayim, 38 Jaffa Street (tel: (02) 623 1273). Travellers to the city hoping to catch live shows can also buy tickets in person from the various box offices.

Listings for major events (with web links) can be found online at the Jerusalem municipal website (www.jerusalem.muni.il), while the online magazine, @The Source (website: www.ii-a.com), includes a guide to cultural events.

Music: The Henry Crown Symphony Hall, 5 Chopin Street, is the home of the excellent Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra (tel: (1700) 704 000; website: www.jso.co.il). Tickets are usually priced NIS100-150. The world-renowned Israel Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (02) 645 4647; website: www.ipo.co.il) rotates performances between its main base in Tel Aviv, Haifa and Jerusalem. Visitors to Jerusalem may find obtaining tickets for its concerts in the city very difficult. Such is the level of devotion to the orchestra, the ensemble boasts almost 30,000 season ticket holders – the largest subscription public per capita in the world. When it performs in Jerusalem, concerts are at the Binyanei Ha’oomah, 1 Shazar Street, near the Central Bus Station (tel: (02) 655 8558).

Theatre: Jerusalem’s most innovative theatre for new plays and drama is probably the Khan Theatre, 2 David Remez Square (tel: (02) 671 8281), which performs five or six plays every season. The repertory is divided between new plays from Israel and around the world, classics and adaptations. Performances are mainly in Hebrew. Devotees of experimental and avant-garde theatre should try to catch performances at the Habima Theatre, a 96-seat studio at Floor 4, 4 Yad Harozim (tel: (02) 625 4463; website: www.habima.org.il, Hebrew only).

Dance: Lovers of dance will have no problem finding what they want in Israel. The renowned Israel Ballet (Israel’s national classical ballet company) performs mainly in its home town of Tel Aviv, with occasional productions in Jerusalem. Several professional modern dance companies, most based in Tel Aviv, perform throughout the country and abroad – best known are Inbal Dance Theater and Batsheva Dance Company, both based at the Suzanne Dellal Centre in Tel Aviv (website: www.suzannedellal.org.il). In Jerusalem, Mechola, 43 Emek Refaim (tel: (02) 563 6663; website: www.geocities.com/Broadway/Stage/8973), is a municipal dance centre housing jazz and folk dance companies and workshops for children and adults.

Film: Most foreign films in Jerusalem are screened in their original version with Hebrew subtitles. Among the most popular mainstream cinemas are Ray Chen, in Talpiot (tel: (02) 679 4477), and the GG Gil, Jerusalem Mall, Malha Street (tel: (02) 678 8448). The Lev Smadar, 4 Lloyd George Street (tel: (02) 561 8168), is a highly regarded, nice and comfortable arthouse cinema. However, the best place for cinema in Jerusalem is the Cinematheque, at the Jerusalem Film Centre, Hebron Road (tel: (02) 565 4333; website: www.jer-cin.org.il). The Cinematheque has two auditoria showing classics, critically acclaimed new releases and foreign arthouse films.

Literary Notes: Some of Israel’s greatest living writers were born in the 1930s. Many of them lived in Jerusalem at the start of the Arab-Israeli War, which followed the foundation of Israel in 1948. Constant themes are the conflict between the religious life of Judaism and the life of the modern secular Jew; and the contradiction of Jerusalem as the holy, eternal city of God and Jerusalem as the man-made, political city of human conflict.

A B Yehoshua deals with these issues in his novel, The Lover (1977), which describes a husband’s attempt to trace his wife’s lover, who disappeared during the Yom Kippur War of 1973. The husband finds the man living within a community of Orthodox Jews in Jerusalem and attempts to persuade him to rejoin the modern secular reality of life in the city. In Amos Oz’s novel, My Michael (1968), the tension between violence and spiritual yearning in Jerusalem leads to strains within a Jewish couple’s marriage as they become more aware of both the threat and the hope offered by the city’s Arab population. Yehuda Amichai (1924-2000) was one of the country’s most admired and most successful writers. The author of more than 75 books, Amichai’s works have been published around the world. While also much admired for his love poems, it was his ability to capture the dynamics of Israel’s inner tensions and historical evolution that proved to be his most enduring contribution to Hebrew literature.

Nightlife

Despite the lack of licensing laws, Jerusalem has never been known for its wild nightlife and if you’re looking to dance the night away your best bet would be to follow the example of many Jerusalemites and take a sherut the 60km (37 miles) to Tel Aviv. The nightclubs that do exist in Jerusalem tend to be located in the Talpiot area, are expensive and operate smart dress codes. Nightlife is even quieter than usual at present due to worries about terrorist attacks and East Jerusalem is particularly empty after dark.

The legal drinking age is 18-years. Up-to-date listings for club nights can be found in the Friday supplement of the Jerusalem Post (website: www.jpost.com)

Bars: With a few exceptions, alcoholic drinks are not available in East Jerusalem or in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. If you do want a drink in East Jerusalem, head for the Cellar Bar, at the American Colony Hotel, Nablus Road, which is popular with journalists (open until 0330). Visitors should drink in moderation or avoid wandering around visibly under the influence. Most bars are located in west Jerusalem, with a handful to be found in the Christian and Armenian Quarters of the Old City. Among the most popular is the Tabasco Tearooms, 8 Aqabat al-Taqiya (open 0800-2400), attached to a budget hostel of the same name (so popular with backpackers). Friday night’s Punch Party allows you to drink as much punch as you like. Jerusalem’s first Internet bar, Strudel, 11 Monbaz, is also good for food and drink (open until at least midnight and until 0200 on Sat). Zanzibar, 13 Shamai, is still a popular, trendy bar that caters to a sophisticated yuppie clientele (open until 0300). Tzoof Bar, 15 Hebron Road (noon-0200 Sat and Sun), with its arched entrances, brick walls and floor and ambient lighting, summons up the Old City, and serves a mix of drinks including cocktails. It sometimes has stand-up comedy and live jazz. One of the city’s liveliest areas, Nahalat Shiv’ah, can be found of Soloman Street just outside the city walls, it is a polular for bars, cafes, pubs and restaurants at all time of day, but especially at night.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Jerusalem.

Clubs: Most clubs are located in west Jerusalem. At Underground, 1 Yoel Salomon, there have been drinks and dancing as long as anyone can remember. With two rooms of music (one rock and one dance) it attracts Israelis and travellers alike. Haoman 17, 17 Haoman Street (website: www.haoman.com), is still going strong, attracting international DJs and boasting two dancefloors where you can groove the night away to a mixture of house and techno. Hata'asiyah Dance Club, Ha-Ta'asiya 5, is another big club popular with the dance crowd, Fri and Sat are the biggest nights.

Live Music: Although a wide selection of music venues can be found in both east and west Jerusalem, what is on offer generally could hardly be described as exciting. However, jazz is popular and often very good. Pargod Theatre, 94 Betzalel, hosts a Friday afternoon jam session, while Tmol Shilshom Bookstore Caf, 5 Yoel Salomon, has jazz on Mondays and folk on Tuesdays (both from 2300). Folk musicians perform at the AACI, 11 Pinsker, in Talbiya. Pop concerts (both Israeli and foreign groups) are sometimes held at the Jerusalem Theatre, 20 David Marcus Street, in Talbiya. For live rock bands try the downstairs bar at Arizona, 37 Jaffa Road, or Mike’s, Horkanos Street, which has live rock and blues music nightly from 2230.

City Statistics

Location: Judea, Israel.
Country dialling code: 972.
Population: 680,400 (city).
Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from 25 April to 9 October 2005; changes every year).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; unique Israeli three-square-pin plugs are standard in newer buildings (many sockets also accept older two-pronged plugs).
Average January temp: 9C (48F).
Average July temp: 23C (73F).
Annual rainfall: 486mm (19 inches).

Special Events

All Jewish religious festivals and holidays (like Shabbat) are 24 hours long, starting the previous evening at nightfall and ending at nightfall. As with the Muslim festival of Ramadan, Jewish religious festivals fall on a different date every year.

Please note: Some annual events may be cancelled due to the security situation.

Jerusalem half-marathon, end of March
Pesach (Passover), nothing with yeast or which is ‘leavened’ is allowed all week – that includes bread and beer, first and last days are public holidays, 16-24 Apr 2005 (starts with ‘Seder Night’ festive meal on evening of 24 Apr), throughout the city
Yom HaShoah, memorial day for victims of the Holocaust, 5 May 2005, throughout the city
Israel Independence Day, celebrations of the declaration of the State of Israel in 1948, 7 May, throughout the city
Israel Festival, May-Jun annually, various city venues
Yom Yerushalayim (Jerusalem Day), celebrations of the reunification of Jerusalem and the return to Jewish rule in 1967, 6 Jun, throughout the city
Shavuot (Pentecost), festival of first fruits and of the giving of the Torah to the Jews, Jul, throughout the city
Abu Gosh Music Festival, each year at Shavuot and Sukkot, in Crusader Church, Abu Gosh, west of Jerusalem
Jerusalem Film Festival, Jul, Cinematheque (website: www.jff.org.il/)
Tisha b’Av (Nineth of the Hebrew month Av), a religious fast day commemorating the destruction of the Temple, Aug, throughout the city
Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year), 4 Oct 2005, throughout the city
Ramadan, 4 Oct-11 Nov 2005, Ramadan nights are lively and colourful with coffee shops open until late and rooftop parties
Yom Kippur (The Day of Atonement), religious fast day, 13 Oct 2005, throughout the city
Sukkot (Feast of Tabernacles), 18 Oct 2005, throughout the city
Abu Gosh Music Festival, each year at Shavuot and Sukkot, in Crusader Church, Abu Gosh, west of Jerusalem
Christmas Eve, 24 Dec, at Christian locations throughout the city
Christmas Day, 25 Dec, at Christian locations throughout the city
Tu b’Shvat (‘New Year of Trees’), an annual celebration of nature, 13 Feb 2006, throughout the city

Cost of Living

Prices for tourist services are sometimes quoted in US Dollars. This is usually where the expectation is that a credit card will be used, for example when hiring a car. In these instances, the amount paid would be written in US Dollars.

1 Israeli New Shekel (NIS1) = 0.12; US$0.23; C$0.28; A$0.29; 0.18
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005