World City Guide

Mini Guide of Houston

City Overview

Fondly known as the Bayou City, although nowadays more frequently referred to as the Space City, Houston was founded in 1836 – by brothers Augustus and John Allen – on the banks of Buffalo Bayou (a creek). This southeast Texan city is named after General Sam Houston, of the Texas Army that won independence from Mexico. Within a year of its foundation, Houston became the capital of the Republic of Texas until 1840, when that honour was transferred to Austin. However, this Republic was rather short-lived as Texas joined the Union in 1845. It kept itself an escape route, however – the right to secede whenever it wishes is written into the constitution.

Despite its high-rise skyline, Houston has an open feel with several lakes and waterways – such as the Buffalo Bayou – winding their way through the city, surrounded by lush green landscape. The city has been a dynamic centre of business, particularly in oil, since ‘black gold’ was discovered at nearby Beaumont in 1901. It is also the leader in space technology – Houston is home to NASA and the Johnson Space Center, the base for Mission Control and where astronauts are trained. It was established in 1961, as NASA’s primary site for the design, development and testing of spacecraft for human flight. The port area, which linked to the city by the Houston Ship Channel – an 80km (50-mile) inland waterway – is thriving and has developed into an important business district for the city. Other districts, such as Interstate 10’s Energy Corridor and the areas around the Galleria and the Texas Medical Center, are also pivotal points in Houston’s commercial concerns. The city is the now the fourth largest in America, covering an area of 1600 sq km (618 sq miles).

In recent years, Houston’s Downtown has undergone a dramatic transformation into a dynamic area of the city, both as an entertainment district and as a residential district, with many buildings being converted into loft apartments and selling at a premium. The area is a magnet for people who wish to have dinner, see a movie or a show and walk along the historic waterfront in Sesquicentennial Park. Bayou Place, an entertainment complex in the Downtown Theater District, has been a great addition to the area, providing restaurants, live music and a multiplex cinema. Lovers of theatre are well catered for year round, as Houston is one of a handful of American cities that has permanent ballet, orchestra, opera and theatre companies. Uptown Houston is the major shopping district, while areas such as Montrose – where artists, actors and musicians gather – and Heights – with beautiful Victorian homes – all give a sense of the diversity of the city.

Houston has a temperate climate all year round, although the humidity in the height of summer can make the city feel warmer than the actual temperature. Such a climate means lush green gardens, fragrant flowers and towering trees. Houston is alive and thriving and the attractions of such a vibrant city, as well as the mild climate and the many opportunities in industries like oil and gas, computers, aerospace and medicine, have turned it into a desirable place in which to live.

Getting There By Air

George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH)
Tel: (281) 230 3000.
Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org

Located 35km (22 miles) north of the city, the airport is used by 23 airlines, for both international and domestic flights, serving over 150 destinations worldwide, from four terminals. In 2001, around 34.8 million passengers passed through the airport.

Major airlines: Continental Airlines (tel: (800) 525 0280 (domestic flights) or (800) 231 0856 (international flights); website: www.continental.com) use George Bush Intercontinental Airport as their hub for both domestic and international flights. Other major airlines include Air Canada, Air France, American Airlines, British Airways, KLM, Lufthansa, Northwest Airlines, Southwest Airlines and United Airlines.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz among others), duty free, shops, restaurants and bars.

Business facilities: Airlines provide business lounges for frequent flyer members only. The Houston Marriott Airport Hotel (tel: (281) 443 2310; website: www.marriotthotels.com) has a business centre with meeting rooms and full facilities. The hotel is located in the centre of the airport terminal complex and is connected by an underground train service.

Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.coachusa.com) operates a service to Downtown, daily 0645-2330 every 30 minutes (journey time – one hour). Tickets cost US$19. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000) operates regular public buses (101 Airport Express and 102 Bush IAH) to Downtown, Monday-Friday 0500-0100, every 25 minutes (journey time – one hour). Tickets are considerably cheaper at US$1.50. Taxis are also available outside the terminal and fares to Downtown are in the region of US$37.50.

William P Hobby Airport (HOU)
Tel: (713) 640 3000.
Website: www.houstonairportsystem.org

Located 16km (ten miles) to the southeast of Houston, the airport provides domestic flights to over 65 US cities, served by eight airlines. In 2001, over 8.6 million passengers used the airport.

Major airlines: Southwest Airlines (tel: (214) 350 4996 or (800) 435 9792; website: www.iflyswa.com) uses William P Hobby Airport as its hub. Other major airlines include American Airlines, American Eagle, Atlantic Southeast Airlines, Comair and Delta Airlines.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, tourist information, car hire (Avis, Dollar and Hertz among others), shops and restaurants.

Business facilities: There is an airport meeting room for hire (tel: (713) 640 3000) but no additional business services are available.

Transport to the city: Express Shuttle (tel: (713) 523 8888; website: www.coachusa.com) operates a regular service to Downtown, daily 0645-2330 (journey time – 1 hour). Tickets cost US$14. METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000) operates regular public buses (50 Harrisburg and 101 Airport Express) to Downtown, daily 0500-0100 every 30 minutes (journey time – 45 minutes). Tickets cost US$1-1.50. Taxis are available outside the terminals and fares to Downtown are in the region of US$17.50.

Approximate flight times to Houston: From London is 8 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 3 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 3 hours 35 minutes; from Toronto is 3 hours 5 minutes and from Sydney is 19 hours 50 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket.

Getting There By Water

The Port of Houston, 111 East Loop North (tel: (713) 670 2569 or (800) 688 3625; website: www.portofhouston.com) linked to the city of Houston by the 80km (50-mile) Houston Ship Channel, is a huge complex, the sixth largest port in the world. It handles mainly cargo (see Business Profile) but has also become an important departure point for cruise ship companies, including the Carnival and Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, with weekly cruises into the Caribbean. There are, however, no ferry services available from the port.

Cruise ships depart from Pier C-7 at Barbours Cut Terminal, where there are limited passenger facilities. Parking is available (US$7 per day) but there is no public transport for getting to Houston.

Getting There By Road

Interstate highways in the USA are designated by the letter I and a number. In addition to the interstates, there are state and local roads. The traffic drives on the right and overtaking should only be done on the inside lane, although cars on a five-lane highway regularly pass on both sides. At crossroads without traffic lights, the four-way stop system means that it is first come first served for right of way. At traffic lights, a right turn is permitted (with due care) on a red light, unless it is specifically stated not to do so. All drivers, front-seat passengers and children (under the age of 14) are required by law to use seatbelts. It is illegal to pass a school bus (from either direction) if it has stopped and has its hazard lights flashing. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. The speed limit is 48kph (30mph), if there are no signs, although the general posted speed limit in town is 56kph (35mph). Freeway driving speeds are 88-113kph (55-70mph).

The legal driving age in Houston is 16 years. A valid drivers licence in English or an International Driving Permit (IDP) is required – IDPs are not accepted unless accompanied by a valid driving licence. Third-party liability insurance is mandatory.

The American Automobile Association – AAA (tel: (800) 222 1333; website: www.aaa-texas.com) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service:
AAA (800) AAA HELP/222 4357

Routes to the city: Houston is encircled by Interstate I-610 – known as The Loop. This is intersected by Interstate I-10, which links the city to San Antonio to the west and New Orleans to the east, and also Interstate I-45 from Dallas to the north and Galveston to the south.

Driving times to Houston: From San Antonio – 4 hours; Dallas – 4 hours 30 minutes; New Orleans – 7 hours.

Coach services: Greyhound (tel: (713) 759 6565 or (800) 229 9424; website: www.greyhound.com) operates regular services to San Antonio (journey time – 3 hours 15 minutes), Dallas (journey time – 4 hours 10 minutes) and New Orleans (journey time – 8 hours 45 minutes). There are also Greyhound services to other major towns and cities in Texas and further afield. The bus station is located at 2121 Main Street and is open 24 hours a day, although it has minimal facilities.

Getting There By Rail

Amtrak (tel: (800) USA RAIL or 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) operates long-distance services from Houston Amtrak Station, 902 Washington Avenue (tel: (713) 224 1577). Facilities are limited to food vending machines and payphones, although there are ATMs and a post office nearby. The ticket office is open 0700-2100 on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and 0700-2430 on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The cost of rail travel is rather expensive but the level of comfort is high.

Rail services: The Sunset Limited service links Houston with San Antonio (journey time – 4 hours 50 minutes), El Paso (journey time – 4 hours 20 minutes), Tucson (journey time – 22 hours 30 minutes) and Los Angeles (journey time – 34 hours 05 minutes) in the west. To the East, there are services to New Orleans (journey time – 9 hours) and Orlando (journey time – 33 hours 15 minutes).

Transport to the city: Houston Amtrak Station is very central, so taxis are not really necessary. Metrobus 36 Kempwood stops at the station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport in Houston is fairly well developed and reasonably priced. Nevertheless, most visitors to Houston generally prefer to hire a car, for ease of movement. The Metropolitan Transit Authority – METRO (tel: (713) 635 4000; website: www.ridemetro.org) operates an extensive bus service throughout the city. This starts at 0500 and stops at 2400, although certain services stop earlier in the evening.

In addition, METRO operates a free trolley bus service, which covers five different routes that link the major hotels with tourist destinations. This operates every ten minutes 0630-1930. October 2002 saw the introduction of a new service called the Uptown Shuttle (website: www.uptownshuttle.com). This serves the popular Post Oak Boulevard corridor and its dining, shopping and business areas. The free shuttle service operates Monday to Friday 1100-1400.

METRO is also developing a light rail system, which will open in 2004 and run 12km (7.5 miles) from Downtown to south of Reliant Park.

A one-way bus fare in the city centre zone costs US$1 – higher rates apply to other zones. There are fare boxes on the bus (correct change is required). Alternatively, visitors can buy tokens in advance – two rides are free with tokens purchased to the value of US$8. Day passes cost US$2 and allow unlimited travel (on the local service only) in a 24-hour period, while weekly passes cost US$9. Concessions are available on all fares and passes. Information and tickets can be obtained from RideStores, located at 720 Main Street, and 813 Dallas Street (open Monday-Friday 0730-1730). Local shops displaying the METROstop sign also sell tickets.

Taxis
Taxis are plentiful but can be rather expensive for short distances. There is generally a charge of US$2.50 for the first mile and US$1.65 for each additional mile. A tip of around 10% of the fare is usual. There are plenty of cabs in Downtown but elsewhere they are more difficult to find and it is better to phone for one. Companies include Fiesta Cab Company (tel: (713) 236 9400), Square Deal Cab Company (tel: (713) 659 7236) and Yellow Cab Company (tel: (713) 236 1111).

Limousines
Sapphire Limousines (tel: (713) 532 6367; website: www.sapphirelimousines.com) offers a stretch limousine service. Prices cost US$75 per hour, with a minimum of three hours’ hire.

Driving in the City
Most visitors to Houston prefer to hire a car, as it is the best and most cost-effective way of travelling around the city. Driving in the morning and evening rush hours (0700-0900 and 1630-1830) should be avoided, as the roads are very congested. Other than that, Houston is one of the few major US cities where congestion has declined in the past ten years, mainly due to a massive construction programme. The highways have Protected High Occupancy Vehicle lanes for buses, carpools and vanpools, which reduce the commuter traffic.

Parking is generally not a problem with plenty of car parks, such as Park on the corner of Milam and Texas Streets, and Alright Parking on the corner of Travis and Prairie Streets. These cost around US$12 for the day and US$5 for the evening. Many attractions or venues have free parking for visitors. Some on-street parking is available, although difficult to find in Downtown. The maximum period is only one hour, which costs US$0.50, but it is generally free after 1800.

Car Hire
Insurance is compulsory when hiring a car in Houston. It should also be confirmed that there is adequate Loss Damage Waiver and personal liability insurance. Visitors looking to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. The minimum age is generally 25 years, although some companies will hire cars (at a higher rate) to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years. Avis, 4825 Richmond Avenue at Galleria (tel: (713) 629 7230; website: www.avis.com), Dollar, 8686 Kirby Drive (tel: (713) 797 9624; website: www.dollar.com), and Hertz, 2120 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 652 0436; website: www.hertz.com), all have offices in Houston. Prices start from around US$30 per day.

Bicycle Hire
Cycling is an ideal way to take advantage of the many cycle trails in Houston’s parks. Bicycles can be rented for US$20 per day from West End Bicycles (tel: (713) 861 2271) at 5427 Blossom Street, east of Memorial Park.

Business

Business Profile
Traditionally, Houston’s prosperity has been linked to oil – in 1981, the statistics proved this, with 81% of the economy dependent on petroleum. Today, however, only 52% of the economy depends on oil and the city has diversified into areas such as aerospace, computers (hardware and software) and biomedical technology. Service industries account for around 40% of jobs. Texas Medical Center is the largest medical centre in the world and the largest employer in Houston with around 50,000 employees working in its 42 member institutions. Houston is also home to NASA and the Johnson Space Center, which trains all astronauts and co-ordinates much of the development of the space shuttle and international space station. NASA employs around 20,000 people. Houston is also the home of Continental Airlines and Dynegy, the energy company, which are both Fortune 500 companies (an elite group of America’s largest companies). Compaq, another Houston success story, has grown into a Fortune Global 100 and is now the second largest computer company in the world.

The main business areas are Downtown, the Galleria area and the Greenway Plaza area. The Port of Houston is the second largest major port in the USA for total tonnage and handles more foreign tonnage than any other US port.

In 2000, Houston saw its unemployment figure plunge to 3.1%, the lowest ever recorded. But the figure has significantly increased to 5.5% in 2002, following the national slow down in growth experienced by the USA, and is now in line with the national figure. Lay-offs were high in Houston because of the effects of September 11th on Continental Airlines, as well as the Enron meltdown and the merger of Compaq with HP in May. However, there was some growth in the Houston economy. The US Dollar lost about 3% of its value against many of the world currencies and this has benefited Houston’s key industries, such as chemicals, because it has made US exports cheaper abroad.

Business Etiquette
American businesspeople tend to be more informal than their European counterparts and are likely to use first names on initial contact. Business attire for both men and women is usually a suit, especially in the large corporations. Some of the smaller companies have adopted a more relaxed approach to dress and allow employees to wear smart-casual clothes, although definitely not jeans. The use of business cards is commonplace. Appointments for meetings should be made in advance and punctuality is expected. It is quite common for meetings to be held over lunch but these tend to be alcohol free and strictly business. Business dinners usually take place in restaurants rather than at homes and exchanging of gifts is not usual practice. After-work drinking is commonplace as many bars have happy hours until 1900. Business hours are officially Monday-Friday 0900-1730, although these are often much longer.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Houston’s skyline is testament to the oil boom era and a period of extensive development that stopped abruptly in the 1980s. Several buildings, such as the Texas Commerce Tower and the Texaco Plaza, have observation floors from where it is possible to see the vast flat area over which the city sprawls. A ten-kilometre (six-mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks add an extra dimension to the street guide and are particularly welcome as an escape from the summer heat.

The Sam Houston Historical Park illustrates the early history of Houston. Across the street is the recently renovated Art Deco-style City Hall. Lovers of open spaces will be drawn to the lovely Hermann Park, which is not only home to the Houston Zoo but also contains two gardens that are totally different in style – the Japanese Gardens, with a traditional teahouse and wooden footbridges, and the Houston Garden Center. In addition to this, there is also a golf course and the Miller Outdoor Theatre, which offers free outdoor performances during the summer months. Close by is the Museum District – a beautiful area of tree-lined paths, landscaped gardens and fountains – which is packed with many of Houston’s finest museums, including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Menil Collection and the Holocaust Museum Houston. Also worth a visit is the Williams Tower Water Wall, where water cascades down a 19.5m (64ft) curved black wall in the shape of a horseshoe. No longer open for tours, the Astrodome was the world’s first air-conditioned domed stadium for baseball and football. The Astrodome – so large that an 18-storey building would fit inside it – prompted the invention of plastic Astroturf, after the grass died during the first season of play.

Tourist Information
Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
901 Bagby Street
Tel: (713) 437 5200 or 5556 or (800) 446 8786. Fax: (713) 227 1408.
E-mail: houtour@ghcvb.org
Website: www.houston-guide.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Visitor information is also available from Clear Lake/NASA Area Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1201 NASA Road 1.

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Houston.

Key Attractions

Space Center Houston
The Space Center Houston is a privately operated attraction that acts as the official visitor centre of NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Exhibits include the Gemini and Apollo capsules, other space flight hardware, including a full-size mock-up of a space shuttle, and astronaut memorabilia. Visitors can enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour of the Johnson Space Center, hands-on space simulators, IMAX films and even watch astronauts train for upcoming shuttle missions. In addition, there are changing exhibitions on subjects like crop circles and robots.

1601 NASA Road 1
Tel: (281) 244 2100.
E-mail: schinfo@spacecenter.org
Website: www.spacecenter.org
Transport: Metrobus 246 Bay Area NASA (selected trips).
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1800 (Sep-May); daily 1000-1900 (Jun), daily 0900-1900 (Jul); Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1000-1900 (Aug).
Admission: US$16.95 (concessions available).

Contemporary Arts Museum
The Contemporary Arts Museum, established in 1948 and housed in an award-winning contemporary all-metal structure, has several rotating exhibitions each year. It displays new and recent works of the last 40 years, by regional, national and international contemporary artists. Recent exhibitions included the works of the avant-garde artist, Yoko Ono. In 2003, an exhibition will examine the profound influence of cartoons and comics in contemporary art. There will also be an exhibition on the art of Patti Smith, many of her large-scale drawings being inspired by the events of September 11th.

5216 Montrose Boulevard, Museum District
Tel: (713) 284 8250. Fax: (713) 284 8275.
Website: www.camh.org
Transport: Metrobus 34 Montrose or 65 Bissonnet.
Opening hours: Tues and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Museum of Fine Arts
The Museum of Fine Arts has an impressive collection of over 45,000 pieces of art, including antiquities and Renaissance art through to Impressionism and early Modernism. It also has fine African sculptures, textiles and costumes. The striking Beck Building, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, was opened in March 2000, doubling the size of the museum and allowing more of the ever-growing collection to be displayed. The building has a roof that is studded with skylights, which gives ideal lighting conditions in which to view the paintings. Highlights include the Straus Collection of Renaissance and 18th-century paintings and the Beck Collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, including Van Gogh, Monet, Matisse and Gauguin.

1001 Bissonnet Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 639 7300.
E-mail: visitorservices@mfah.org
Website: www.mfah.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire, 4 Beechnut, 8 South Main, 15 Hiram Clarke, 34 Montrose or 65 Bissonnet.
Opening hours: Tues and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-2100, Fri and Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1215-1900.
Admission: US$7 (concessions available); free on Thurs.

Menil Collection
The Menil Collection is the home of the works of art collected by John and Dominique de Menil – a prominent, wealthy Houston family – while on their travels. The private collection includes antiquities, Byzantine art, tribal art and 20th-century works, such as Cubism, Minimalism, Surrealism and Pop Art. There is also a permanent collection of astronomical instruments and ceremonial masks, which fascinated the Surrealists.

1515 Sul Ross Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 525 9400. Fax: (713) 525 9444.
E-mail: info@menil.org
Website: www.menil.org
Transport: Metrobus 78 Alabama.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1100-1900.
Admission: Free.

Holocaust Museum Houston
The Holocaust Museum Houston serves as a memorial to the millions who were imprisoned and died in Nazi death camps in World War II. The museum contains a permanent exhibition hall, regularly changing temporary exhibitions, a memorial area and sculpture garden. A permanent exhibition – ‘Bearing Witness: A Community Remembers’ – reveals the atrocities of the Holocaust through the words and memorabilia of local survivors. The museum features a 30-minute film – Voices – which is a montage of oral histories by Holocaust survivors from the Houston area. Guided tours available at weekends at 1230, 1330, 1430 and 1530.

5401 Caroline Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 942 8000.
E-mail: tours@hmh.org
Website: www.hmh.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat and Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Houston Museum of Natural Science
This museum contains an impressive collection of natural exhibits. Highlights include the Cockrell Butterfly Center – filled with butterflies and tropical plants and featuring a 21m (40ft) waterfall, a rainforest environment, a planetarium and a permanent exhibition of dinosaur skeletons. There is also an IMAX theatre. Special exhibitions change regularly.

1 Hermann Circle Drive, Museum District
Tel: (713) 639 4629.
E-mail: webmaster@hmns.org
Website: www.hmns.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire, 4 Beechnut or 15 Hiram Clarke.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (until 2000 Tues in summer), Sun 1100-1800.
Admission: US$6 (exhibits); US$5 (planetarium); US$5 (Cockrell Center); US$7 (IMAX); concessions available.

Houston Zoo
A very popular visitor attraction, the Houston Zoo covers 22 hectares (55 acres) and is home to over 700 species of animals, reptiles and amphibians. The zoo was established in Hermann Park in 1922 – with only a handful of animals – and has grown steadily since the federal government gave the city zoo a bison named ‘Earl’ in 1920. It is now an important centre for conservation and research. Most days, there are opportunities to view the feeding of certain animals (such as vampire bats) and also to see demonstrations by sea lions. The Wortham World of Primates is a lush 0.88-hectare (2.2-acre) replication of the natural rainforest habitat for the 13 species of monkeys and apes on show there. Other popular attractions are the big cats – including white tigers, leopards and jaguars.

1513 North MacGregor Street, Hermann Park, Museum District
Tel: (713) 533 6500.
Website: www.houstonzoo.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission: US$5 (concessions available).

Children’s Museum of Houston
A wonderful experience for those aged from four months to 14 years, the Children’s Museum of Houston has a variety of hands-on exhibits in the fields of science, history, culture and arts. The ‘Think Tank’ is a problem-solving exhibit using mirror magic and optical illusions. Activities concerning the environment feature tree rubbing and insect collecting.

1500 Binz Street, Museum District
Tel: (713) 522 1138. Fax: (713) 522 5747.
E-mail: athompson@cmhouston.org
Website: www.cmhouston.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire or 4 Beechnut.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$5 (concessions available); free for families Thurs 1700-2000.

Sam Houston Historical Park
The eight-hectare (19-acre) Sam Houston Historical Park contains a collection of restored historic buildings – including houses, a church and a reconstructed row of shops. The buildings have been collected together on this site, to go with the 1847 Kellum-Noble House, the oldest house in Houston. A recent addition to the collection is the 1870 two-storey house belonging to Jack Yates, the first to be built by a freed slave. These historic buildings set against the sleek city skyscrapers make for a great photo opportunity. The only way to see the houses is on one of the regular guided tours.

1100 Bagby Street
Tel: (713) 655 1912. Fax: (713) 655 7527.
E-mail: info@heritagesociety.org
Website: www.heritagesociety.org
Transport: Metrobus 18 Kirby, 40 Pecore, 48 West Dallas, 50 Heights or Allen Parkway Special.
Opening hours: Guided tours Tues-Fri 1000, 1130, 1300 and 1430, Sat 1000-1500 on the hour and Sun 1300-1500 on the hour.
Admission: US$6 (concessions available).

John P McGovern Museum of Health & Medical Science
A fascinating museum, the Museum of Health & Medical Science (part of the world-renowned Texas Medical Center) gives an exciting tour of the human body, with huge sculptures of human organs (including a brain and a rib cage). There are also plenty of hands-on and interactive exhibits that explore how the body works and how to stay healthy.

1515 Hermann Drive, Museum District
Tel: (713) 521 1515. Fax: (713) 526 1434.
E-mail: info@mhms.org
Website: www.mhms.org
Transport: Metrobus 1 Hospital, 2 Bellaire, 4 Beechnut or 15 Hiram Clarke.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700 (also open Mondays in summer), Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: US$5 (concessions available); free for families Thurs 1600-1900.

Further Distractions

National Museum of Funeral History
The National Museum of Funeral History – a rather unique attraction – houses memorabilia from the funerals of celebrity figures, such as John F Kennedy, Martin Luther King, Judy Garland, John Wayne and Elvis Presley. A recent addition is the original equipment for the John F Kennedy Eternal Flame, which was used between 1967 and 1998. The collection also includes a funeral sleigh, a Packard mourning bus, a 1941 hearse/ambulance and embalming artefacts.

415 Barren Springs Drive
Tel: (281) 876 3063. Fax: (281) 876 2961.
E-mail: info@nmfh.org
Website: www.nmfh.org
Transport: Metrobus 86 FM 1960 Circulator.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1200-1600.
Admission: US$6 (concessions available).

Houston Arboretum & Nature Center
Visitors who wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the city can enjoy the native plants and wildlife at the Houston Arboretum & Nature Center, located next to Memorial Park. The centre has eight kilometres (five miles) of nature trails covering various habitats – such as forest and prairie – which cater for the different requirements of the animals living there.

4501 Woodway Drive
Tel: (713) 681 8433. Fax: (713) 681 1191.
Website: www.neosoft.com/~arbor
Transport: Metrobus 17 Tanglewood.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800 (grounds); daily 0900-1700 (building); Tues-Sun 1000-1600 (Discovery Room).
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Houston is not an ideal city to walk around, however, visitors who are interested in the architecture and culture of the city can join one of the monthly Sunday walking tours, which are offered by the Greater Houston Preservation Alliance (tel: (713) 216 5000; website: www.ghpa.org). The tours vary each month, so keen walkers should telephone for details and departure point information. The cost is US$10. Houston Walks (tel: (713) 222 9255) also offers a variety of walking tours in Downtown and the Museum District. Reservations are required.

Alternatively, both Memorial Park and Buffalo Bayou have jogging trails that are ideal for getting some fresh air. The views of the Downtown skyline are spectacular from the Buffalo Bayou.

Bus Tours
Coach USA (tel: (713) 670 3254; website: www.coachusa.com) has a year-round city sightseeing tour, departing Monday to Saturday at 1200 and taking two and a half hours. Tickets cost US$25 and a minimum of ten passengers is required. The tour starts at the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau and passes through Downtown, the Theater District, the Museum District, Hermann Park and Uptown, including the Galleria and River Oaks. Coach USA also operates a five-hour tour to the Space Center Houston (Monday to Saturday departing at 0930). Tickets cost US$45 and a minimum of ten passengers is required.

An intriguing three-and-a-half-hour tour takes place most weeks run by High Spirits (tel: (713) 224 2868; website: www.highspiritstours.com). It takes in Houston’s haunted places, starting at the Downtown Spaghetti Warehouse, one of the most haunted buildings in Texas, and including a cemetery and pub.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Kemah Boardwalk: Only a 45-minute drive from Downtown – south along I-45 and Tex-518 – Kemah is a popular half-day trip, due to its waterfront shops, restaurants and amusement rides. Nearby, the Old Seabrook Historic District is a charming village with shop-lined streets, outdoor markets and seasonal festivals. Information is available from the Kemah Boardwalk (tel: (877) 285 3624; website: www.kemahboardwalk.com).

George Ranch Historical Park: Located 30 minutes southwest of Downtown at 10215 FM762, Richmond (tel: (281) 343 0218; website: www.georgeranch.org), this is a 23,000-acre working ranch, where visitors can witness a cowboy cattle drive, as well as experience the struggle of early pioneers to Texas. The ranch is open daily 0900-1700 and costs US$9 (concessions available).

For a Whole Day

San Jacinto Battleground Historical Complex: Approximately 32km (20 miles) east of Houston – along Tex-225 and Tex-134 – is the spot that marks the battleground where Texas won its independence from Mexico in 1836. The complex (tel: (281) 479 2421; website: www.sanjacinto-museum.org) houses the San Jacinto Monument (open daily 0900-1730), which is a 174m (570ft) obelisk that towers over the surrounding area – there is an observation deck for visitors to enjoy the views. At the base of the monument is the San Jacinto Museum of History (open daily 0900-1800). Of particular interest is the Battleship Texas (open daily 1000-1700), commissioned in 1914, which saw action at Normandy and Okinawa. Entrance to the site (open daily 0800-2100 May to October and 0800-1900 November to April) and museum is free but there is a charge of US$3 (concessions available) for the observatory and US$3.50 (concessions available) for the film (Texas Forever!), which is shown every hour until 1700 at the Jesse H Jones Theater for Texas Studies.

Galveston Island: Located 80km (50 miles) southeast of Houston – along I-45 – on the Gulf of Mexico, this island (website: www.galveston.com) is rich in history. The grand avenues and quiet lanes of the East End and Silk Stocking Historic Districts are home to some extravagant residences built by the wealthy merchants. The Strand has Victorian shops, art galleries and museums. Across the island, Moody Gardens (tel: (800) 582 4673; website: www.moodygardens.com) houses an aquarium representing the oceans of the world, a tropical rainforest and an IMAX screen, as well as one of America’s first IMAX ridefilm theatres with wrap-around screens giving the sensation of being in the film. The complex is open 1000-1800 Sunday to Friday and 1000-2000 Saturday. Day passes can be booked online and cost US$28.95. The nearby Lone Star Flight Museum (tel: (409) 740 7722; website: www.lsfm.org) houses an extensive collection of restored aircraft and is open daily 0900-1700 and costs US$6.

Sport

The Houston Astros (tel: (877) 927 8767 (for single game tickets); website: http://houstonastros.mlb.com), the local Major League Baseball team, took on opponents at the Astrodome, before moving to the state-of-the-art open-air stadium, Minute Maid Park, 501 Crawford Street (tel: (713) 259 8000), in March 2000. They have been particularly successful, being the National Division Central Division Champions for 1997, 1998, 1999 and 2001. Houston also has two successful basketball teams – the Houston Rockets of the National Basketball Association (tel: (713) 627 3700; website: www.nba.com/rockets) and the Houston Comets of the Women’s National Basketball Assocation (tel: (713) 627 9622; website: www.wnba.com/comets). The Rockets won the NBA title in 1994 and 1995 and the Comets are the holders of the first four WNBA titles in 1997, 1998, 1999 and 2000. Both currently have the Compaq Centre, 10 Greenway Plaza East, as their home stadium but a new multi-purpose arena, the Houston Arena, is under construction in Downtown and is scheduled to open in September 2003. Tickets for the Rockets and the Comets can be purchased direct from the teams.

The long-awaited National Football League team, the Houston Texans (tel: (713) 289 2002 or (877) 635 2002; website: www.houstontexans.com), burst onto the field in September 2002 in a brand new 69,500-seater football stadium, the Reliant Stadium, Kirby Drive, with a retractable roof.

Golf is a popular game in Houston, and the mild climate allows for it to be played all year-round. The city is also home to the Houston Open Golf Tournament, a major venue for the PGA Tour’s players.

Tickets for most sporting events can be obtained from Ticketmaster (tel: (713) 629 3700; website: www.ticketmaster.com).

Fitness centres: Generally fitness centres are for members only but many hotels have facilities for their guests.

Golf: There are more than 100 golf courses in the greater Houston area, many of which are open to the public. Hermann Park Golf Course, 2155 North MacGregor Street (tel: (713) 526 0077), and Memorial Park Golf Course, 6001 Memorial Loop Drive (tel: (713) 862 4033), are both easy to reach. Green fees at Hermann Park are US$20.25 weekdays and US$41.37 from Friday to Sunday. The Memorial Park is closed Tuesdays and open until 1330 for the general public on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Green fees are US$22.50 weekdays and US$32 Friday to Sunday.

Swimming: Waterpark lovers will enjoy SplashTown Waterpark (tel: (281) 355 3300; website: www.sixflags.com), with a number of pools and water rides. It is located at the Louetta Road exit, off I-45 in Spring. Next to the Astrodome is Six Flags Astro World and Water World (tel: (713) 799 8404; website: www.sixflags.com), which is a theme park with water slides and a giant wave pool. The Water World section of the park closes between September and March.

Tennis: Tennis courts are available for public use in Memorial Park, 6501 Memorial Drive (tel: (713) 845 1000).

Shopping

Houston is a shopper’s paradise, as there are over 30 malls in the area. There is even a ten-kilometre (six-mile) system of underground pedestrian tunnels and sky walks for weather-free shopping and dining. The Uptown area of Houston, around Westheimer Road at Post Oak, has a host of shops, including Macy’s, Versace, Tiffany and Gucci. Most are all located in the Galleria – a shopping mall that is also one of Houston’s top tourist attractions, with a giant indoor ice skating rink as its centrepiece. A few blocks east of the Galleria on Westheimer Road is the Highland Village Shopping Center (website: www.shophighlandvillage.com), with several upmarket shops. In the same vicinity is Uptown Park (website: www.uptownparkhouston.com), a European-style plaza with fountains and small gardens.

A more eclectic mix of shops can be found in the Rice Village neighbourhood, with designer boutiques, art and craft galleries and traditional shops. Art galleries and antique shops are to be found in the Upper Kirby District. Houston’s oldest shopping district, West Gray Street, now has a string of Art Deco-inspired upmarket shops and galleries in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

Most visitors to Texas come away with an item of cowboy wear, such as a stetson, and these can be bought at Turner’s Saddlery & Western Wear in the Galleria. Other best buys include Western-style boots, clothes and riding equipment. Antiques and arts and crafts bargain hunters should go to the Back Bay Market (tel: (281) 474 3869), held twice a month, south of Downtown in Clear Lake.

There is a sales tax of 8.25%, which foreign visitors can claim back if exporting their purchases. This can be done at Texas Tax Back, Level 3 of Galleria II (tel: (713) 965 9414), where passports and flight tickets have to be presented along with the sales receipts. Shopping hours are generally Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1200-1800.

Culture

Houston has an impressive 17-block Theater District (website: www.houstontheaterdistrict.org), with a total of 12,000 seats. Only New York has more seats concentrated in one geographic area. It is also one of the few US cities with permanent ballet, opera, symphony orchestra and theatre companies.

Tickets for concerts and theatre can be purchased from Ticket Stop (tel: (713) 526 8889; website: www.ticket-stop.com) or the Ticket Center (tel: (281) 842 5387; website: www.ticket-center.com). Ticketmaster (tel: (713) 629 3700; website: www.ticketmaster.com) is another good source for tickets to cultural events around the city.

Up-to-date information on what is on each week is available from the free listings paper, The Houston Press (website: www.houstonpress.com), which is published on Thursdays. The Preview section of the Thursday Houston Chronicle is also full of listings information.

Music: The Houston Grand Opera (tel: (713) 227 2787 or (800) 227 2787; website: www.houstongrandopera.org) is based at the Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), and has a reputation for presenting groundbreaking new operas. It has also won Grammy, Tony and Emmy awards. The Houston Symphony Orchestra has its home at the Jesse H Jones Hall for the Performing Arts, 615 Louisiana Street (tel: (713) 224 7575; website: www.houstonsymphony.org), and its excellent reputation extends worldwide.

Theatre: The Alley Theatre, 615 Texas Avenue (tel: 713) 228 8421; website: www.alleytheatre.org), is one of the oldest resident professional theatre companies in the country. It began its life literally in an alley in 1947. The Theatre Under The Stars – TUTS (tel: (713) 558 8887; website: www.tuts.com) performs musical theatre and is now the resident company at the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, 800 Bagby Street (tel: (713) 315 2400; website: www.thehobbycenter.org). The Miller Outdoor Theatre (tel: (713) 284 8354) is an outdoor amphitheatre located in Hermann Park (website: www.houstonparks.org), which presents free performances – including ballet, Shakespeare, musicals and the Houston Symphony Orchestra – from March until November.

Dance: The Houston Ballet (tel: (713) 523 6300; website: www.houstonballet.org) also has its home at the lovely Wortham Theater Center, Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 237 1439), where it puts on lavish dance productions. It is the fifth largest dance company in the USA, with international acclaim following several overseas tours. The company performs classics, as well as cutting edge works by some of the world’s exciting young dance makers.

Film: Mainstream films can be viewed at many cinemas throughout the city, such as Cinemark/Hollywood 20, 2101 East Beltway 8 (tel: (713) 475 0081), Cinemark/Tinseltown-Westchase, 3600 West Sam Houston Parkway South (tel: (713) 952 1881), and Magic Johnson Theatre/Northline Mall, I-45 and Crosstimbers Street (tel: (800) 555 8355). Arthouse and independent films can be seen at the Angelika Film Center, 510 Texas Avenue (tel: (713) 225 5232; website: www.angelikafilmcenter.com).

Several films have been filmed in Houston, many using its link with space travel as a theme. These include Armageddon (1998), directed by Michael Bay, and Apollo 13 (1995), directed by Ron Howard. Terms of Endearment (1983), directed by James L Brooks, and Robocop II (1990), directed by Irvin Kershner, were also filmed in Houston.

Cultural events: The Fourth of July celebrations draw thousands of Houstonians to the Miller Outdoor Theatre in Hermann Park, for the ever-popular rendition of classical favourites that culminates in a spectacular firework display. For one weekend in August each year, the annual Houston International Jazz Festival transforms the city into a mini New Orleans, with performances from national and international stars in front of the City Hall. The free performances of Shakespeare’s plays at the Miller Outdoor Theatre, during the annual Houston Shakespeare Festival in August, are a real crowd pleaser.

Literary Notes
For a city its size, Houston does not have any leading literary authors –a recently compiled list of 200 prominent Houstonians highlights this absence. Interestingly enough, for a city that has a rather hard-nosed commercial feel to it, having grown up on the strength of the oil business, Houston is the home of the Romance Writers of America. The city is the base for many bestselling historical romance authors, including Barbara Dawson Smith, Christina Dodd and Judith McNaught, who each have millions of fans worldwide. Dawson Smith’s books, such as Once Upon A Scandal (1997), are mainly historical romances set in 19th-century Britain. Dodd is a prolific writer whose titles – such as A Well-Favoured Gentleman (1998) and A Well-Pleasured Lady (1997) – hint at the nature of her romances. McNaught’s work tends towards the romantic suspense style, with her most recent bestsellers being Night Whispers (1998) and Water’s Edge (1998). The endless list of romance writers in Houston is evidence of a softer side to a city long associated with oil barons and astronauts.

Nightlife

Downtown Houston is a vibrant area that is buzzing day and night with restaurants, bars, clubs, cinemas and theatres. Richmond Avenue – on the west side of the city adjacent to the Galleria – is a particularly happening place. Many bars and clubs generally charge around US$10 and drinks cost US$3-5. Smart dress is expected in most of the clubs and bars, although venues that are more like pubs are fairly casual. Bars are generally open from lunchtime until 0200 in the morning. The minimum drinking age is 21 years.

The free city listings paper, The Houston Press, is published on Thursdays and has an extensive list of which bars and clubs to go to and what’s on where.

Bars: La Carafe, 813 Congress Street, is a friendly neighbourhood bar, while the Brewery Tap, 717 Franklin Street, boasts 35 kinds of beer on tap. The State Bar, Texas Street, is a popular place for a drink, while The Ginger Man, Morningside Drive, has a very relaxed atmosphere and a good selection of beers from around the world. Every city has an Irish bar and Houston is no exception – Brian O’Neill’s Traditional Irish Pub on Morningside.

Casinos: These are not permitted in Texas – the nearest ones are in New Orleans.

Clubs: Retro disco is alive and well at Polly Esther’s, 6111 Richmond Avenue. Tonic, at 310 Main Street, is a funky place to be seen with different music each night (open Thursday-Saturday and Tuesday only), including hip-hop, house, salsa and merengue. A popular Latino club is Elvia’s Club, on Fondren Road, which has a live salsa band every night. There are a number of dance halls in the Houston area, including Wild West, 6101 Richmond Avenue, which attracts a young crowd. Six clubs in one venue, City Streets, Richmond Avenue, comes complete with disco, country music and more, a piano bar and karaoke room.

Live music: McGonigel’s Mucky Duck, on Norfolk Street near Shepherd Drive, is one of the best venues for acoustic music and features a variety of folk acts. The Mercury Room, Prairie Street, is rather upmarket with a wide selection of live music and one of the hottest clubs around. Jazz lovers are drawn to the Sambuca Jazz Caf, Texas Avenue, while dance music and great views of the city can be enjoyed from the top floor of the Sky Bar, on Montrose Boulevard at Hawthorne. Bayou Blues, in the Bayou Place entertainment complex on Smith and Texas Avenue, features live blues music, which is very popular in Downtown.

City Statistics

Location: Harris County, Texas.
Country dialling code: 1.
Population: 1.9 million (city); 4.4 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 54% white, 23% Hispanic, 19% African American, 4% Asian.
Religion: Majority Baptist and Catholic, minorities include Protestant, Hindu, Muslim, Methodist, Presbyterian, Jewish and Episcopalian.
Time zone: GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from first Sunday in April to Saturday before second Sunday in October).
Electricity: 110/120 volts AC, 60Hz; American-style flat two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 10C (50F).
Average July temp: 26C (79F).
Annual rainfall: 884mm (34.8 inches).

Special Events

hp Houston Marathon (website: www.hphoustonmarathon.com), Jan, starting from and finishing at the George R Brown Convention Center
Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo (website: www.hlsr.com), world’s largest livestock, rodeo and horse show, Feb/Mar, Reliant Stadium
Houston Children’s Festival (website: www.festivalsofhouston.com), Houston’s official family celebration with games, activities and adventure zones, Mar, Downtown
WorldFest: Houston International Film Festival (website: www.worldfest.org), Apr, throughout the city
Houston International Festival, performing and visual arts festival (website: www.ifest.org), Apr/May, over 20 blocks, Downtown
Galveston Historic Homes Tour (website: www.galvestonhistory.org), weekends in early May, Galveston
Power of Freedom Festival (website: www.festivalsofhouston.com), live entertainment, food stalls and a huge firework display, 4 Jul, Eleanor Tinsley Park, Buffalo Bayou
Fourth of July, classical music culminating in a fireworks display, 4 Jul, Hermann Park
Houston International Jazz Festival, early Aug, Miller Outdoor Theatre, Hermann Park
Houston Shakespeare Festival, early Aug, Miller Outdoor Theatre, Hermann Park
Fiestas Patrias, street parade celebrating Mexico’s independence from Spain, 21 Sep, Downtown
Texaco-Havoline Grand Prix (website: www.texacogp.com), Oct, course around Downtown
Wings Over Houston (website: www.wingsoverhouston.com), air show, mid-Oct, Ellington Field
International Quilt Festival (website: www.quilts.com), antique and contemporary quilts on display, Oct/Nov, George R Brown Convention Center
Thanksgiving Day Parade, parade with floats and marching bands, 4th Thurs in Nov, through Downtown
Uptown Tree Lighting, tree lighting ceremony, Thanksgiving Day, 4th Thurs in Nov, Galleria

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: US$2
33cl bottle of beer: US$1.50
Houston Chronicle newspaper: US$0.50
36-exposure colour film: US$3
City-centre bus ticket: US$1
American football ticket: US$15-250
Three-course meal with wine/beer: US$35

1 American Dollar (US$1) = 0.52; C$1.25; A$1.28; 0.77
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005