World City Guide

Mini Guide of Helsinki

City Overview

If the shape of Finland resembles a long-skirted woman with her right arm punching the air, then Helsinki is her right foot. Affectionately known as the ‘Daughter of the Baltic’, the city is sited at the arrowhead of a peninsula, surrounded by an archipelago of 315 islands, perfectly placed between its two great trading cousins, Stockholm and Moscow.

The city’s population just teeters over half a million and with its tallest building only 12 storeys high, Helsinki seems almost provincial. However, statistics reveal that the city is one of the fastest growing areas in the European Union. Within the last decade, 100,000 inhabitants have moved into Helsinki and by the year 2030 government statistics predict over 1.3 million people will be living within the region.

In a European perspective, Helsinki is relatively young (450 years), yet it is Finland’s sixth oldest town. The Swedes, who extended their empire into Finland in 1155, founded the city of ‘Helsingfors’ (the name still used by the Swedes) in 1550, when King Gustav Vasa needed a site for a strategic and competitively placed trading port. It languished as a coastal backwater until Imperialist Russia invaded in 1809. The Grand Duchy required a new power base and Helsinki was chosen because of its major trump card, the massive sea fortress – now a UNESCO World Heritage Site – of Suomenlinna.

Modern Helsinki was born when Finland gained independence from Russia in 1917. The new republic boomed throughout the 1920s and 30s, when the architectural movements of the era – Modernism and Functionalism – were fathered by one of Finland’s most famous sons, internationally acclaimed architect Alvar Aalto. Helsinki stepped on to the world stage when the Olympic Stadium was completed in 1938, although the games were postponed due to the war and were finally held there in 1952. It still holds the record as the smallest city in the world to host the Olympic Games.

Finland became a member of the European Union in 1995, securing Helsinki’s ties with Europe. The city’s distinctive ‘East meets West’ culture is symbolised in the contrast between the cool, clean lines of Finlandia Hall that rubs shoulders with the rich golden onion dome of Uspenski Cathedral. The centre of the city, the Neo-Classical mini St Petersburg built by German-born architect Carl Engel, is easily explored on foot and most of the main sights are within walking distance of the centre.

The pace of Helsinki life varies with the seasons. In the summer, when temperatures rise to 18C (64F), the whole city comes alive. The bars overflow onto the streets and throughout July and August, the Finns revel in 20-hour-long summer days. Temperatures can sometimes rise to as high as 28C (82F), a climatic oddity that has been attributed to global warming. In winter, temperatures plummet to an average of - 5C (23F) and the city goes underground, becoming a creative hive of productivity. These long, dark nights have led Helsinkiliset (Helsinkians) to be one of the world’s most ‘connected’ races on the planet; one in ten use the Internet daily, compared to about one in 50 in Britain. Perhaps it is the balance between these two climatic extremes that conspires to make Helsinki one of Europe’s most creative and technologically progressive capitals.

Getting There By Air

Helsinki-Vantaa International Airport (HEL)
Tel: (0200) 4636 (cost 57 per minute, plus local net charge) Fax: (09) 8277 3296.
Website: www.ilmailulaitos.com

The airport, with two linked terminals for national and international traffic, is located in Vantaa, 20km (12 miles) from the city centre. Helsinki is served by direct flights from all major European cities. There is a daily service from New York and direct flights from Miami, San Francisco and Toronto (in North America), and from Singapore, Bangkok and Tokyo (in East Asia).

Major airlines: The national airline is Finnair (tel: (09) 600 8100 or 818 800, 24-hour automated telephone service in English; e-mail: information@finnair.fi; website: www.finnair.fi). Over 25 other airlines fly into Helsinki, including British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Continental Ailines, Iberia, Lufthansa and SAS.

Approximate flight times to Helsinki: From London is 2 hours 50 minutes; from New York is 8 hours; from Los Angeles is 17 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 27 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops and boutiques, restaurants, bars, R-kioski (newsagents), bureaux de change, a bank, automatic exchange machine, ATMs, travel agencies, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz.

Business facilities: There is a VIP lounge with fax and telephone facilities and a cafeteria, as well as teamwork rooms, seating up to eight people, in the international terminal and a conference room, seating up to 30 people, in the domestic terminal. These are available for hire (tel: (09) 8277 3117). The Helsinki Airport Congress Centre (tel: (09) 818 3737), has rooms and halls that are able to hold up to 140, all with AV equipment and modem connections.

Arrival/departure tax: A departure tax of 12 is included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: Bus 615 (see Getting Around) goes to Rautatientori (Railway Square) every 20-30 minutes and bus 617 to Elielinaukio. The fare for both buses is 3 (journey time – approximately 35 minutes). A Finnair bus (tel: (09) 4157 5100) costs 4.50 or 3.50 with the Helsinki Card (see Passes section in Sightseeing) and stops at the Scandic Continental and Radisson SAS Hesperia (a joint stop), terminating at the railway station. Buses run to meet all flights. Standard taxis charge 25, while shared taxis, operated by Yellow Line (tel: (09) 106 464; website: www.airporttaxi.fi) cost 17 (journey time – 20-25 minutes).

Getting There By Water

There are five ferry terminals in the city, all with restaurants and bureaux de change. These are Harbour Kanava Terminal, off Katajanokanlaituri, Katajanokka Terminal, off Mastok, Makasiini Terminal, off Laivasillankatu, Olympia Terminal (South Harbour), off Laivasillankatu, and Lnsisterminaali or West Terminal (West Harbour), in the Lansisatama area, off Hietasaarenkuja. The Port of Helsinki, Olympiaranta 3 (tel: (09) 173 331; e-mail: port.helsinki@hel.fi; website: www.hel.fi/port/english), can provide further information.

Ferry services: There are a number of car ferries travelling between Helsinki and Germany, Sweden and Estonia. Providers include: from Germany, Finnlines, Lnnrotinkatu 21 (tel: (09) 105 440), or Nordic Ferry Centre (tel: (09) 251 0200; website: www.finnlines.fi); from Sweden, Silja Lines, Mannerheimintie 2 (tel: (09) 180 4590 or 0203 74552 (customer number, lines open 0800-2115); website: www.silja.fi); from Estonia, Tallink, Erottajankatu 19 (tel: (09) 228 311 or 282 1277; website: www.tallink.fi), and from Stockholm, Viking Line, Mannerheimintie 14 (tel: (09) 123 577; website: www.vikingline.fi). Nordic Jetline, Kanavaterminaali (tel: (09) 681 770; fax: (09) 6817 7111; e-mail: booking@njl.fi; website: www.njl.fi), operates catamaran services to Tallinn from Harbour Kanava Terminal.

Transport to the city: Kanava and Katajanokka terminals are served by bus 13 and trams 2 and 4. Olympia and Makasiini terminals are served by trams 1A, 3B and 3T. Lnsisterminaali is served by bus 15.

Getting There By Road

Each major road has a number: national highways are numbered with one or two digits, running from east to west. Designated European routes bear a prefix ‘E’. The speed limit is 80-120kph (40-75mph) on motorways, dropping to 100kph in winter (60mph) and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Traffic drives on the right and overtakes on the left. It should be noted that cars entering an intersection from the right always have right of way, even when the car is on a minor road. Seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers in the front of the car and children under the age of 12 years must travel in the back. All motor vehicles must have headlights on at all times. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.05%.

The legal driving age in Finland is 18 years. A pink-format EU driving licence or an International Driving Permit are required. EU nationals taking cars to Helsinki are advised to obtain a Green Card. All drivers must be fully insured and accidents must be reported promptly to the Motor Bureau, Bulevardi 28 (tel: (09) 680 401; fax: (09) 6804 0391).

Additional information is available from Autoliitto – Automobile and Touring Club of Finland, fourth floor, Hmeentie 105A (tel: (09) 7258 4400; fax: (09) 7258 4460; e-mail: autoliitto@autoliitto.fi; website: www.autoliitto.fi), which also runs Tiepalvelu (see below).

Emergency breakdown service:
Tiepalvelu (09) 8502 0708

Routes to the city: The main road to Helsinki from Turku (the ‘gateway to Sweden’) is the E18. Vaasa is connected to Helsinki by the E12. Rovaniemi in the north is on the E75.

Approximate driving times to Helsinki: From Turku – 2 hours 15 minutes; Vaasa – 4 hours 30 minutes; Rovaniemi – 11 hours.

Coach services: The main provider of coaches in Finland is Oy Matkahuolto Ab (tel: (09) 682 701; fax: (09) 692 2084 or 2864; website: www.matkahuolto.fi), which handles all long-distance and express bus travel. International coach options include destinations in Sweden, Norway, Russia and the Baltic countries. Private companies handle regular local bus services. There is a national timetable service (tel: (0200) 4000, at 1.15 per call plus local net charge), operating Monday-Saturday 0700-2100 and Sunday 0800-2100. Coaches arrive at and depart from Helsinki Bus Station, between Salomonkatu and Simonkatu, which has a caf and an ATM.

Getting There By Rail

Valtion Rautatiet – VR (tel: (0307) 20902; fax: (09) 707 3593; website: www.vr.fi) is the main passenger rail service provider. Trains in Finland tend to be clean and efficient. Services depart from Rautatientori (Railway Square), located on Kaivokatu, off Mannerheimintie. ATMs, exchange facilities, newsagents, a car hire office and hotel booking centre are all available at the station.

Rail services: Three main lines arrive from Turku in the west, Tampere in the north and Lahti in the northeast, through which trains from St Petersburg and Moscow pass. There are three daily direct train services to Russia. The Finnish morning train, Sibelius, to Vyborg (journey time – approximately 6 hours) departs before 0700. The Russian afternoon train, Repin, to St Petersburg (journey time – approximately 6 hours) departs mid-afternoon. The Russian night train, Tolstoy, to Vyborg and then on to Moscow departs early evening (journey times - approximately 15 hours). It is possible for travellers to continue on to Berlin on the Repin.

Transport to the city: The railway station is centrally located and is linked to the Helsinki metro system by a pedestrian tunnel.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Helsingin Kaupungin Liikennelaitos – HKL (tel: (09) 010 0111; website: www.hel.fi/hkl) operates the metro, local trams, buses and the ferry to Suomenlinna. Buses and trams run 0545-2400, while the metro operates 0600-2400. A ticket for a single journey on the metro, buses and ferries costs 2 if purchased on board or 1.40 if purchased in advance. A carnet of ten tickets costs 15.50. Tickets for trams are cheaper at 1.50 (on board) or 1.20 (pre-purchased). Transfers are allowed for single and multi-trip tickets within one hour of the time stamped on the ticket upon initial boarding. Tickets are available for purchase from newsagents (R-kioskis), metro stations, the City of Helsinki Tourist Office (see Sightseeing) and the post office.

The HKL Tourist Ticket allows for unlimited travel on all buses, trams, metro and local trains within Helsinki. A one-day ticket costs 4.80, a three-day ticket costs 9.60 and a five-day ticket costs 14.40.

Taxis
Most taxis are Mercedes and can be hailed on the street or booked by telephone. Vehicles in the city are operated by Helsinki Taxi Centre (tel: (09) 700 700 or (0100) 0700). A taxi is available for hire if the yellow ‘TAXI’ dome is lit. As a general rule, tipping is not expected. A journey around town will cost about 25.

Limousines
Companies providing a service include Limousine Service Helsinki, Kptie 4A (tel: (09) 279 7800; fax: (09) 2797 8027; e-mail limo@netti.fi; website: www.limousineservice.fi). Rates start at approximately 45.50 per hour. Kovanen Companies Ltd, Varastokatu 2 (tel: (0200) 6060 or 6161; website: www.kovanen.com), hires out limousines and luxury minibuses for a similar price.

Driving in the City
As the public transport system is excellent and most of central Helsinki is accessible on foot, it is not necessary for one to take a car into Helsinki city centre. Visitors that do drive should be aware that Helsinki rush hours are from about 0730-0900 and 1700-1800.

The city is divided into three parking zones, of which Zone I (I-vyhyke) is the most central and accordingly the most costly. Parking is reasonably expensive – meters cost from 0.50 to 2 per hour and parking spaces cost as much as 3 per hour and upwards. With a few exceptions, parking is free after 1800. Parking meters take ordinary coins or parking cards, which can be purchased in advance from R-kioski (newsagents) and service stations. The major car parks are located at the Shopping Centre Forum, Mannerheimintie 20, and Shopping Centre Kluuvi, Aleksanterinkatu 9.

Car Hire
Car hire is available at the airport, railway station, major hotels and tourist offices. Operators include Avis, Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 17 (tel: (09) 441 155; website: www.avis.com), Budget, Malminkatu 24 (tel: (09) 686 6500 or (0800) 124 424; fax: (09) 685 3350; website: www.budget.fi), Europcar (tel: (09) 4780 2220 or 7515 5444 or (0800) 12154; fax: (09) 478 02222; website: www.europcar.fi), Bevari, Helsinki Airport (tel: (09) 8516 4460; website: www.carrentalbevari.fi), and Hertz, Mannerheimintie 44 (tel: (020) 555 2300; website: www.hertz.fi).

The minimum age for car hire varies from 19 to 25 years, depending on the hire company, with extra charges made for additional drivers. A pink-format EU driving licence or an International Driving Permit is required including one year’s driving experience. A credit card is usually needed as a deposit. Car hire costs from approximately 28.50 per day and 0.30 per kilometre. Fuel charges are not included in the rates and Collision Damage Waiver costs approximately 5-17 per day.

Bicycle Hire
Owing to Helsinki’s flat topography, bicycles are a popular way of getting around and the lanes run concurrently with footpaths. It should be noted that all bicycle traffic lights must be observed to avoid a fine.

Bicycles are available for hire from Cat Sport Oy, Toolonlahti kiosk on the Finlandia Hall shore (tel: (0400) 404 012), where rates are 5 per hour or 10 per day, with a 17 deposit, or from Rastila Camping, Karavaanikatu 4 (tel: (09) 3211 66551). Citybike (tel: (09) 168 3515) hires out bikes from stands around the city. Cyclists pay a deposit of 2 and return the bike to any one of the 26 stands, which only operate during the summer. The City of Helsinki Tourist Office can also provide information on this hire scheme, while information about cycling events is available from the Cycling Union of Finland, Radiokatu 20 (tel: (09) 278 6575; fax: (09) 278 6585).

Boat Hire
During the summer, rowing boats and kayaks are a popular way of island hopping and getting around Helsinki’s shoreline. These are available for hire from Cat Sport Oy and Rastila Camping (see Bicycle Hire above). Hire prices are approximately 960-1420 per week.

Business

Business Profile
Helsinki’s geopolitical position and political neutrality make it the Baltic region’s commercial gateway to Sweden and Russia. It rates as one of the world’s top 20 conference centres and has played host to events such as the first US–Soviet summit in 1990, when George Bush met Mikhail Gorbachev.

One of the fastest growing cities in Europe, Finland has recently been rated as Europe’s most competitive country by the Swiss research institute, IMD, who praised it for its business practices, skills and its ability to be highly adaptable in adverse circumstances – adversity has characterised much of the city’s economic history over the last decade. When the regulated financial market was liberated at the end of the 1980s, the economy went into overdrive. The bubble burst at the beginning of the 1990s and over half a million jobs were lost almost overnight. The unemployment rate became the second highest in Europe, at a staggering 20%. In 1997, the city still suffered an unemployment rate of 17%, however, now boasts ‘just’ 8.5% – a comeback attributed to the government’s spending gamble – in line with the national unemployment rate of 8.2%. Cutting back on everything except education and research (one-fifth of all Finns have a university degree or equivalent) enabled Helsinki to become one of the world’s leading telecom equipment producers, making everything from mobile telephones to GSM networks.

The telecoms industry now vies with the country’s traditional exports of pulp and paper (each account for 40% of Finnish exports). Helsinki Technical University experts predict that within seven years, Finland’s software developers will employ as many people as the forestry industry does today.

Finland’s main international companies include Stora Enso, Finnair, Merita Nordbank and Leiras. Nokia is perhaps the country’s biggest success story, it is now the second-largest manufacturer of mobile phones and forecasts sales of 600 million units by 2004. The company has its headquarters in the Helsinki region. Business is centred on the Kamppi-Tlnlahti area, in the heart of Helsinki, while new high technology centres are breathing business life into Ruoholahti and Pitjnmki.

Business Etiquette
Standard office hours are 0800-1700, although flexible hours are very common. Lunch is the main meal of the day and is taken usually between 1200-1400. Helsinkiliset are punctual to the minute, always alerting a colleague of an impending delay, even if it is a matter of minutes – lateness is seen as a discourtesy.

Bertold Brecht is famed for saying that the ‘Finns are silent in two languages.’ They are a naturally reserved people and do not like speaking for the sake of it. Garrulous people are viewed with suspicion. When meeting for the first time, a handshake is customary, as is formal dress (suit and tie for men) but Helsinkiliset are not flashy; dress is more smart-casual and women often wear trouser suits. Business cards are vital.

Meetings and business deals are often conducted by telephone or at a sauna. Although these places are traditionally regarded as retreats, meetings often take place in these relaxed and less formal environments. Helsinkiliset are completely unabashed about going au natural into the sauna, which are sometimes mixed gender, although there are usually separate saunas for men and women and some sort of wrap is on hand. Saunas are never mixed in a business connection.

If invited to someone’s house for dinner, lateness (over ten minutes) is seen as a discourtesy. Shoes are usually removed before entering the house and a gift for the host, such as a bottle of wine or a bunch of flowers, is seen as courteous.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The central hub of Helsinki is around the bustling seafront Kauppatori (Market Square). Here, locals gather to lunch, shop for fresh fish and vegetables and buy produce from the market stalls. From this point, the architectural heart of Helsinki, Senaatintori (Senate Square), is a five-minute walk away. The best overview of the city is from its tallest building, Hotel Torni, from where it is easy for one to see Helsinki’s most noted landmarks. These include Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall and Steven Holl’s arc of a building, Kiasma, the contemporary art gallery. A good way for tourists to get orientated and see the sights is to take tram 3T, which takes in most of the main attractions.

Tourist Information
City of Helsinki Tourist Office
Pohjoisesplanadi 19
Tel: (09) 169 3757. Fax: (09) 169 3839.
E-mail: tourist.info@hel.fi
Website: www.hel.fi/tourism
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-2000, Sat and Sun 0900-1800 (May-Sep); Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 1000-1600 (Oct-Apr).

Passes
The Helsinki Card entitles the tourist to free travel on the buses, trams, trains and metro. A discount on a sightseeing tour, free admittance to museums and other places of interest; special discounts at restaurants, theatres, concerts and the opera, as well as gifts at department stores are also offered. The pass is valid for one day at a cost of 24, two days at 34 or three days at 42. The Helsinki Card is available for purchase at the City of Helsinki Tourist Office, the Hotel Booking Centre, travel agencies and hotels.

Key Attractions

Senaatintori (Senate Square)
Helsinki’s neo-classical heart dates from the first half of the 19th century and was built by Carl Ludvig Engel, a native of Berlin. As he was also largely responsible for St Petersburg’s architecture, the square has doubled up as a backdrop for Cold War spy-espionage films, such as Gorky Park (1983), Reds (1981) and White Nights (1985). The buildings that border the square include the white-domed Tuomiokirkko (a Lutheran cathedral, consecrated in 1852), the Government Palace and the University Library. In the centre of the square stands a statue of Tsar Alexander II, cast in 1894.

Senaatintori
Transport: Tram 1, 3B, 3T, 4 or 7B.

Sederholm Talo (Sederholm House)
Just near Senate Square, this stone building is the oldest in Helsinki (1757). Built in 18th-century Rococo style, Sederholm Talo has been turned into a museum that documents the life of Johan Sederholm, a Counsellor of Commerce who lived in the early part of the 18th century.

Aleksanterinkatu 16-18
Tel: (09) 169 3625. Fax: (09) 169 3526.
Website: www.hel.fi/kaumuseo/english/sederholmintalo.html
Transport: Tram 1, 3B, 3T or 4.
Opening hours: Daily 1100-1700 (Jun-Aug); Wed-Sun 1100-1700 (Sep-May).
Admission: 3.

Kauppatori (Market Square)
The Market Square (or ‘fish market’) is located on the seafront and is where the locals lunch on cheap eats, including freshly caught salmon steaks and reindeer meat. It is a great spot for tourists to find souvenirs like Russian fur hats, carved wooden bowls, gloves and hats knitted on the spot, reindeer skins and Lapp hunting knives. Additionally, an undercover market is just 100m (328ft) away, selling similar fare. The Market Hall is a great stop for souvenirs such as dried reindeer salami and Finlandia vodka (at the Alko).

Kauppatori
Transport: Tram 1, 3B or 3T.
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0800-1700, Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0800-1500 (Market Hall); Mon-Sat 0630-1400 (outdoor market); daily 1530-2000 in summer (evening market).

Temppeliaukion Kirkko (Temppeliaukio Church)
The ‘Church in the Rock’, designed by Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, was consecrated in 1969. The church is built into solid rock, with the inner wall left raw and unfinished, and is crowned with a solid copper dome. The wall surrounding the church is made from rock quarried on the site.

Lutherinkatu 3 (entrance is at the end of Fredikinkatu)
Tel: (09) 494 698. Fax: (09) 496 366.
Transport: Tram 3T.
Opening hours: Mon and Wed-Fri 1000-2000, Tues 1000-1300 and 1400-2000, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1200-1345 and 1500-1745.
Admission: Free.

Sibelius Monumentti
Hundreds of steel pipes shaped by sculptor Eila Hiltunen make up the impressive monument to the famous Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius (1865-1957). A rebel under oppressive Russian rule, Sibelius’ tunes have become synonymous with Finnish patriotism – his tune, ‘Finlandia’, came to symbolise the Finnish struggle for independence. A journey to this monument is a pilgrimage for most Finns.

Sibelius Park, Tl, between Topeliuksenkatu and Mechelininkatu
Transport: Bus 18 from Railway Square.
Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk.
Admission: Free.

Kiasma (Contemporary Art Museum)
This stunning building, built by award-winning architect Steven Holl, is a sculpture in itself. The museum showcases the best in Finnish and international contemporary art since the 1960s, with approximately 4000 pieces on display at any one time. It has an designer caf and an excellent bookshop.

Mannerheiminaukio 2
Tel: (09) 1733 6500. Fax: (09) 1733 6503.
Website: www.kiasma.fi
Transport: Tram 3B, 3T, 4, 7A or 7B.
Opening hours: Tues 0900-1700, Wed-Sun 1000-2030.
Admission: 5.50; free on Friday 1700-2030; concessions available.

Taideteolisuusmuseo (Museum of Art and Design)
This interesting museum tracks the history of Finnish design and art, showcasing the works of Kaj Franck, Timo Sarpaneva, Alvar and Aino Aalto and others. It also features special events throughout the year, a caf with chairs by legendary designer Yrj Kukkapuro and a shop selling local crafts.

Korkeavuorenkatu 23
Tel: (09) 622 0540. Fax (09) 6220 5455.
E-mail: info@designmuseum.fi
Website: www.designmuseum.fi
Transport: Tram 10; bus 17.
Opening hours: Tues 1100-1800,Wed 1100-2000, Thurs-Sun 1100-1800.
Admission: 6.50 (concessions available).

Mannerheim Museo
This fascinating museum was the home of the much-celebrated C G E Mannerheim. Born in 1867, he served for over 30 years in the Russian Imperial Army, leading Finland to independence in a bloody civil war that saw 30,000 Finns killed in 108 days. Mannerheim served as a commander-in-chief, a regent and as president.

Kalliolinnantie 14, Kaivopuisto Park
Tel: (09) 635 443. Fax: (09) 636 736.
Website: www.mannerheim-museo.fi
Transport: Tram 3B or 3T.
Opening hours: Fri-Sun 1100-1600.
Admission: 7.00 (includes a compulsory guided tour in one of six languages).

Finlandia-Talo (Finlandia Hall)
Finlandia Hall is Helsinki’s conference and concert hub. The hall was built in 1971 and is one of Alvar Aalto’s most famous works. It is also home to the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra, founded by Robert Kajanus in 1882. The hall is a great place for one to hear Finland’s finest musicians as well as appreciate the distinctive, angular architecture employed in Aalto’s buildings.

Mannerheimintie 13
Tel: (09) 40241. Fax: (09) 446 259.
E-mail: finlandiahall@fin.hel.fi
Website: www.finlandia.hel.fi
Transport: Tram 4, 7B, 7A or 10.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1100-1700, Sun (guided tours by appointment).
Admission: 6 (includes a compulsory tour).

Finlands Nationalmuseum (National Museum of Finland)
This museum contains rich archaeological and ethnographic collections, depicting Finnish life from prehistory to the present day. Some of the most interesting exhibits are those on the culture of the Sami people of Lapland.

Mannerheimintie 34
Tel: (09) 40501. Fax: (09) 4050 9400.
E-mail: kansallismuseo@nba.fi
Website: www.nba.fi
Transport: Tram 4, 7B, 7A or 10.
Opening hours: Tues-Wed 1100-2000, Thurs-Sun 1100-1800.
Admission: 4 adults (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Kotiharju Sauna
No trip to Finland is complete without a sauna. This was once where women gave birth and the Finns still see it as a refuge and a place to rejuvenate the body and soul. This 72-year-old sauna is the only wood-heated public sauna in the downtown area. There are separate saunas for women and men.

Harjutorinkatu 1
Tel: (09) 753 1535 or (050) 363 8535.
Transport: Tram 6, 7A or 7B.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1400-2000, Sat 1300-1900.
Admission: 6.50.

Kaupungin Talvipuutarha (City Winter Garden)
The City Winter Garden is a taste of the tropics in the middle of Helsinki. Founded in 1893, the gardens bristle with cacti, palms and other plants foreign to Finnish soil.

Hammarskjldintie 1
Tel: (09) 166 5410.
Transport: Tram 8 from Ruoholahti metro or Tl.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1200-1500, Sun 1200-1600.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Helsinki Expert, Guide Booking Centre, Lnnrotinkatu 7B (tel: (09) 2288 1600; fax: (09) 2288 1599; e-mail: sightseeing@helsinkiexpert.fi; website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi), arranges guided city walks, which take in all the main points of interest in the city centre, meeting at the statue of Czar Alexander II in Senate Square. Tours last from 90 minutes to two hours and cost 9; tickets are available for purchase at the departure point on Senate Square.

Bus Tours
A year-round sightseeing bus tour, arranged by the Helsinki Expert, Guide Booking Centre, Lnnrotinkatu 7B (tel: (09) 2288 1600; fax: (09) 2288 1299; e-mail: sightseeing@helsinkiexpert.fi; website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi), departs at 1000 from the Olympia Terminal and 1045 from the Katajanokka Terminal. Commentary is in English and Swedish and the cost is 19.50 (7 with the Helsinki Card). The tours take an hour and 45 minutes to visit all the main sights of the city. Tickets are available at the departure point.

Boat Tours
Two companies offer 90-minute cruises around Helsinki, which can include food and refreshments. These are Royal Line (tel: (09) 612 2950; fax: (09) 170 508; e-mail: royal.line@royalline.fi; website: www.royalline.fi) and Sun Lines (tel: (09) 755 5488; fax: (09) 755 5487; e-mail: sunlines@sunlines.com; website: www.sunlines.fi). Cruises cost 14 (approximately 25 with lunch or dinner) and both companies are located at the waterfront by Market Square.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Seurasaari: The whole island of Seurasaari is an open-air museum (tel: (09) 4050 9660; website: www.nba.fi), dotted with 18th- and 19th-century houses representing the whole gamut of Finnish life. One of the islands located immediately off Helsinki’s coastline, this was the brainchild of Axel Olai Heikel, who set the museum up in 1909, to preserve the traditions of Finnish life. The oldest building on the island is the wooden Karuna Church, which was completed in 1686. The island can be reached by bus 24 from Erottaja and is open daily from 1100-1700. Opening hours for the buildings are Monday-Friday 0900-1500, Saturday and Sunday 1100-1700. Admission is 4. Tourist Board officials are on site to provide information.

For a Whole Day

Suomenlinna (Sea Fortress): Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this sea fortress, lying approximately one mile off the coast of Helsinki, was once the bastion of the Swedish empire, with a larger population than Helsinki itself. Work began on the huge complex in 1748, when Augustin Ehrensvrd designed a system of bastions, a dock and barracks. It is made up of two islands connected by a small bridge and includes the Suomenlinna Museum (tel: (09) 4050 9691; website: www.nba.fi), the Doll and Toy Museum (tel: (09) 668 417), Submarine Vesikko (tel: (09) 1814 6238) and the Coastal Artillery Museum (tel: (09) 1814 5295), as well as restaurants and bars. There is a regular ferry connection to Suomenlinna from the Market Square (free with a Helsinki Card). Travel information is available from City Traffic (tel: 010 0111). Motorboats also operate from May to September, again leaving from Market Square. Additional information is available from the Suomenlinna Tourist Office (tel: (09) 684 1880; fax: (09) 6841 8812; e-mail: matkailu@pop.suomenlinna.fi; website: www.hel.fi/suomenlinna). Guided tours of the island, in English, take place at 1030, 1300 and 1500.

Sport

The Finns are mad on sport. Athletics, roller-blading, ice hockey, baseball, swimming, sailing – the list goes on and on. Helsinki has both natural and artificial ice rinks, stadiums, several swimming pools, 60 sport halls and over 180km (112 miles) of ski trails, so there is plenty on offer. The national game is pespallo, which is derived from American baseball. HJK Helsinki (website: www.hjk.fi) is the city’s main football club, based at the Finnair Stadium, Urheilukatu 1 (tel: (09) 7421 6300; website: www.finnairstadium.fi). In November 2002, the team proved itself to be Finland’s most successful football team, by securing its 20th Finnish Championship title. Other recent Finnish successes include Mika Hkkinen, who was the 1998 and 1999 Formula One motoracing champion. The Sports Museum of Finland (tel: (09) 434 2250) is located in the Olympic Stadium, Paavo Nurmentie 1 (tel: (09) 440 363), which is also the location for international football matches and games.

Tickets to sporting events are available online through Lippupalvelu Oy (tel: (09) 613 8611; fax: (09) 6138 6299; website: www.lippupalvelu.fi), Finland’s nationwide ticket retailer.

Fitness centres: Frisk Alexium, Aleksanterinkatu 15 (tel: (09) 612 9010; website: www.elixia.com) is a fully equipped health and fitness centre, open daily.

Golf: Helsingin golfklubi, Talin kartano (tel: (09) 550 235; fax: (09) 565 3596), offers 27 holes to visitors until 1400, at a cost of 23.50. Keimola Golf Club, Kirkantie 32, Vantaa (tel: (09) 276 6650; fax: (09) 896 790), is located near the airport and has an 18-hole course, with green fees at 33.50 (Monday-Friday) and 37 (weekend). Both courses have a restaurant, pro shop and other facilities and require players to have a registered handicap.

Roller-blading: Blading gear can be hired from Cat Sport Oy, Tlnlahti, a kiosk on the Finlandia Hall shore. Prices start at 4 for 30 minutes of hire.

Swimming: One of the best places for a dip is the summer open-air pool, Hammarskjldintie, near the Olympic Stadium (tel: (09) 3108 77854). Otherwise the Olympic Stadium, Stadium Tower, Paavo Nurmentie 1 (tel: (09) 440 363), and the Serena Leisure Centre, Tornimentie 10, Espoo (tel: (09) 8870 5555), both have pools. Other places for visitors to bathe in summer include Hietaranta Beach and Seurasaari and Pihlajasaari islands.

Tennis: Helsinki has 31 tennis clubs and eight tennis centres. Outdoor courts cost 10-20 for an hour and rackets can be hired for about 8.50 per day. The Finnish Tennis Association, Varikkotie 4 (tel: (09) 341 7130; fax: (09) 331 105), can provide a list of clubs.

Shopping

The city’s main shopping streets are Pohjoisesplanadi, Aleksanterinkatu and Fredrikinkatu. A walk around the Esplanadi reveals most of Finland’s best-known design stores, including Artek (Alvar Aalto’s store), Aarikka (jewellery), Design Forum Finland (cutting-edge furniture and accessory design) and Marimekko (fashion). Stockmann, the oldest, largest department store in Helsinki, is the place where most Helsinkiliset buy their staples and doubles as a good hunting ground for souvenirs. Forum, Mannerheimintie, is the city centre’s largest shopping centre, while Itkeskus, the largest shopping centre in Finland, can be found a short metro ride from the city centre.

For smaller, one-off boutiques, Fredrikinkatu is the street for nick-nacks and fashion and Annankatu for antique furniture. The biggest and best markets are the Market Square (see Key Attractions), situated by the South Harbour, and the nearby Old Market Hall, where shoppers can purchase wonderful fresh food and handicrafts. The market is open Monday-Thursday 0800-1700, Friday 0800-1800 and Saturday 0800-1500. Hakaniemi Market Hall has everything from Sami dolls to reindeer skins and is probably the best place for visitors to find more unusual souvenirs. At the end of one of Helsinki’s most upmarket streets, the Bulevardi, is the Hietalahti Flea Market, where rich Helsinkiliset discard their designer gear. The range is huge, with covetable purchases including Russian accordions, second-hand jewellery and general junk. The market is open weekdays 0800-1400 and Saturday 0800-1500. Hietalahti Market Hall is an organic produce market located in a newly restored building in art nouveau style and open Monday-Friday 0800-1800 and Saturday 0800-1500.

Shops are generally open weekdays 0900-1700 and Saturday 0900-1300/1400. Department stores and shopping centres open weekdays 0900-2100 and Saturday 0900-1800. VAT, charged at 22.5%, is included in the marked price. Foreign visitors from outside the EU can claim 12-16% tax back upon departure, for items over 42 purchased from stores with the ‘Tax Free for Visitors’ sign. Presentation of receipts and a passport will be required.

Culture

Although young by European standards, Helsinki is alive with cultural activity. After World War I and Finland’s independence from Russia, the country boomed both economically and culturally. Helsinki is Finland’s hot spot for cultural events. The major annual events are in summer, although there are productions throughout the year. The largest concerts are shown at the Hartwall Areena, Areenakuja 1 (tel: (020) 41997; website: www.hartwall-areena.com), where tickets start from 33, or the Hall of Culture, Sturenkatu 4 (tel: (09) 774 0270; fax: (09) 7740 2777; website: www.kulttuuritalo.fi), where tickets start from 3.50. Another venue with a constantly changing list of dance, music and theatre is the Kaapelitehdas (Cable Factory), Taliberginkatu 1C (tel: (09) 4763 8305; fax: (09) 4763 8383; website: www.kaapeli.fi/cablefactory), an ex-Nokia factory, now resident to over 100 artists.

For the latest events, visitors can pick up a copy of Helsinki Happens (website: www.helsinkihappens.com) or visit the online theatre listings (website: www.teatteri.org). Tiketti is the Ticket Theatre Information Centre, Teatterikulma, Meritullinkatu 33 (tel: (09) 135 7887 or (0600) 11616; fax: (09) 135 5522; website: www.tiketti.fi). Tickets are also available online, through Lippupalvelu Oy (tel: (09) 613 8611; fax: (09) 6138 6299; website: www.lippupalvelu.fi), Finland’s nationwide ticket retailer.

Music: The main concert hall for national and international acts is Finlandia Hall, Mannerheimintie 13E (tel: (09) 40241; fax: (09) 446 249; e-mail: finlandiahall@fin.hel.fi; website: www.finlandia.hel.fi), which is home to the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.hel.fi/filharmonia), founded by Robert Kajanus in 1882. The Hall of Culture (see above) is also used. Concerts are staged by the students at the Sibelius Academy of All Music, Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 9 (tel: (09) 405 441; website: www.siba.fi/welcome-eng.html). Details of the times of performances and programmes are available from the customer service desk at the City of Helsinki Tourist Office. Chamber music is held in various venues, including churches such as Temppeliaukio, Lutherinkatu 3 (tel: (09) 494 698. Fax: (09) 496 366). The works of Jean Sibelius are popular with Helsinki audiences, although the works of rising stars, such as Magnus Lindberg, are also widely performed. The Finnish National Opera, the Suomen Kansallisoopera (website: www.operafin.fi), has its residence at the Finnish National Opera House, Helsinginkatu 58 (tel: (09) 4030 2211; fax: (09) 4030 2305; e-mail: liput@operafi.fi; website: www.operafin.fi), with tickets starting from 12.

Theatre: There are two main venues, both showing mainly classical productions (such as Ibsen) in Finnish. These are the Finnish National Theatre (Suomen Kansallisteatteri), Lntinen Teatterikuja 1B (tel: (09) 1733 311; website: www.nationaltheatre.fi), and Helsinki City Theatre (Kaupunginteatteri), Elintarhantie 5 (tel: (09) 394 0422, tickets or 39401, information; fax: (09) 394 0244; website: www.hel.fi/citytheatre). Ticket prices range from 6.50 to 42.

Dance: The Finnish Ballet School also has its residence at the Finnish National Opera House (see above), with tickets starting at 5. More information on all the other various dance companies in Helsinki is available online (website: www.danceinfo.fi).

Film: Helsinki has many cinemas. Each week, a programme showing times and venues is published by the City of Helsinki Tourist Office. Box offices open an hour before the first show of the day.

The Finnish Film Archive, Pursimiehenkatu 29-31 (tel: (09) 615 400; website: www.sea.fi/english), requires membership, which costs 3.50 and allows one ticket to all performances. The archive shows classic and cult films. Mainstream films can be seen at one of the city’s multiplexes: Kinopalatsi, Kaisaniemenkatu 2B (tel: (0600) 944 944), Forum 1-7, Mannerheimintie 16 (tel: (0600) 007 007), and Tennispalatsiisti, Salomonkatu 15 (tel: (0600) 007 007). Tickets for each cost 0.70. Virtually all films are screened in their original soundtracks, with subtitles in Finnish and Swedish.

Finnish theatre is highly acclaimed – a large part of which can be attributed to a Finnish filmaking fraternal team, Mika and Aki Kaurismki. Both brothers set some of their films in Helsinki, including Mika’s gangster flick, Helsinki Napoli All Night Long (1987) and Aki’s take on Dostoyevsky’s classic Crime and Punishment (1983).

The Helsinki Film Festival is held in September each year (tel: (09) 6843 5230; fax: (09) 6843 5232; e-mail: office@hiff.fi; website: www.hiff.fi).

Cultural events: Cultural highlights include Juhannusvalkeat (the midsummer bonfire festival associated with the Feast of St John in June), held on Seurasaari Island. One of the busiest stages in Helsinki, with live acts all day throughout the summer, including folk dancers and string quartets, is the Esplanadi Park bandstand.

In February, J L Runeberg (one of Finland’s best-loved poets) is commemorated on Runeberg Day, a day of cake eating. May Day marks the beginning of summer and is celebrated with vast quantities of alcohol. The beginning of July sees the Jazz and Tango Festival when there is open-air dancing on Seurasaari Island. The Storyville Jazz Club hosts jazz events in July and, for contemporary music lovers, there is the off-beat Helsinki Music Nova. From the end of August, for three weeks, the Helsinki Festival, a huge arts festival celebrating dance, art and music, heralds the end of the summer.

Literary Notes
One of Helsinki’s more noted writers and commentators is Eino Leino, whose work, Helsingiss (1905), documented life under the Russians. Another work outlining this era is by Maila Talvio, who wrote Itmeren tytr (1929-36), a trilogy about 18th-century Helsinki. The widely acclaimed author, Mika Waltari, penned the trilogy, Isst poikaan, describing three generations in Helsinki from the 1860s to the mid-1930s. Other social commentators have included Anders Cleve, whose short stories in Gatstenar (1959), describe life in 1950s Helsinki and Alpo Ruuth, whose book Kotimaa (1974) documented a young working-class couple’s life in the 1960s. More recent works include Rosa Liksom’s popular collection of short stories, Yhden yn pyskki (1985).

Nightlife

Most of the nightlife is centrally located around Uudenmaankatu and Eerikinkatu and bar-hopping is easily done on foot. The Helsinkiliset are fairly relaxed about their dress code; visitors will feel at ease in anything from jeans to eveningwear, depending on the venue. Helsinki seems to specialise in the bar-cum-restaurant – the early shift comes to dine, the later crowd to party. Most stay open until about 0300 in the summer, while hours vary in the winter, often depending on patronage. Discos or nightclubs generally close about 0400. The Finns love dancing to tango music and many restaurants have dancefloors. Outdoor dancing is a particular favourite and can be found at Pavin tanssilava, in nearby Vantaa. The legal drinking age is 18 years old although some pubs and discos have an age limit of 21 years. The minimum age for nightclubs is generally 24 years. The price of a bottle of beer is approximately 3-3.50, while a glass of wine costs from 3 to 4.

The best guide to the city is Helsinki This Week published by the City of Helsinki Tourist Office and widely available (website: www.helsinkiexpert.fi).

Bars: Most of the bars are found on two nearby streets, so a bar crawl will reveal most of Helsinki’s nightlife. Start at media hangout Bar 9, Uudenmaankatu 9, domain of Helsinki’s movers and shakers. Just beside it is Bar Tapasta, Uudenmaankatu 13, a hole-in-the-wall bar, always spilling over with a hip crowd washing down tasty tapas with designer beers. Bar Corona, Eerikinkatu 11, has billiards, pool and a laid-back atmosphere, where you can either perch at the bar or sit outside on the street. Just next door is MOSKOVA, normally packed with youngsters enjoying a honey-vodka or ten. Further down the road, Mother, Eerikinkatu 2, is the newest, trendiest hangout, while a little further along is Con Hombres, Eerikinkatu 14, a small, often packed gay bar, which plays some of Helsinki’s best techno tunes. There’s also Caf Soda, Annankatu/Uudenmaankatu 16, which is very popular with younger people and is a bar as well as a club (see below). To experience the Finnish national passion for tango dancing first hand, Vanha Maestro, Fredrikinkatu 51-53, is where it all happens. Cover charge is 5 weekdays and 8.50 at the weekend.

Casinos: Casino Ray, Etelinen Rautatiekatu 4, is open daily from 1200 to the early hours. It is an international casino with games including roulette, blackjack, punto banco, money wheel and more. Players must be at least 18 years old and require a passport to obtain a membership card (1.50 for one week or 5 for one year). Smart dress is required.

Clubs: It is difficult to know where to place Caf Soda, Annankatu/Uudenmaankatu 16, as it is a caf by day, bar by night and nightclub after midnight. DJs spin Helsinki’s best moves and grooves and a young, funky crowd frequent the bar and dance floor. Nightclub DTM, Annakatu 6, is large, noisy, gay and steaming with pumping techno music. Hotel bars tend to cater to the business crowd – some of the more popular include the Helsinki Nightclub, Sokos Hotel, Kluuvikatu 8, Helsinki, Yliopistonkatu 8, and Hesperia Nightclub, at the Radisson SAS Hesperia Hotel, Mannerheimintie 12. Also popular is 10th Floor Dance, Kaivokatu 3, which attracts a mix of celebrities, business people and Helsinki movers and shakers.

Live music: The best source of information on entertainment is found in the daily press or Helsinki This Week. The Finnish Music Information Centre (MIC), Lauttasaarentie 1 (tel: (09) 6810 1313; fax: (09) 682 0770; e-mail: info@mic.teosto.fi; website: www.fimic.fi), also provides information.

Current Helsinkian rock groups include Ultra Bra, Nylon Beat, HIM, Darude, Bomfunk MC, J Karjalainen, Heikki Silennoinen Soul-special and Sami Saari. Other favourite singers include Karita Mattila, Arja Koriseva (the queen of Tango music) and Soile Isokoski. A good club for live music is Nosturi, Telakkakatu 8 (website: www.elmu.fi). For major rock concerts, the venue is Tavastia Klubi, Urho Kekkosen katu 4-6 (website: www.tavastiaklubi.fi).

For jazz, the Storyville Live Jazz Club, Museokatu 8 (website: www.storyville.fi), has a different band on most nights, including the Helsinki City Jazz Orchestra. The newest jazz club in the city is JUMO, Pursimiehenkatu 6.

City Statistics

Location: Uusimaa, south coast of Finland.
Country dialling code: 358.
Population: 559,718 (city); 1,213,743 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 87.6% Finnish, 6.4% Swedish, 6% other.
Religion: 86% Lutheran, 13% other, 1% Orthodox.
Time zone: GMT + 2 (GMT + 3 from last Saturday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: - 5C (23F).
Average July temp: 18C (64F).
Annual rainfall: 600mm (23.6 inches).

Special Events

Runeberg Day, poet J L Runeberg is commemorated with a day of cake eating, Feb, throughout the city
Snow Church, only during hard winters is this chilly edifice raised, Feb-Mar 2003, Senate Square
Helsinki International Boat Show, Feb, Helsinki Fair Centre
Helsinki Beer Festival, late Mar, The Cable Factory
May Day, 1 May, throughout the city
Kruununhaka, Halkolaituri Helsinki Day, festival celebrating founding day of Helsinki, 12 Jun, throughout city
Juhannusvalkeat, Midsummer’s eve celebration with bonfires, folk music and dancing, 21 Jun, Seurasaari Island
Finnish City Midsummer, festival with open-air concerts and dancing, 20-22 Jun, Hameenlinna, Hame Castle Park
Savonlinna Opera Festival, early Jul-early Aug, Savonlinna
Jazz and Tango Festival, Jul, Seurasaari Island
Storyville Jazz Club, jazz events, Jul, various venues
Vantaa Baroque Week, early Aug, various venues
Helsinki City Marathon, Aug, starts at the statue of Paavo Nurmi and ends at Olympic Stadium
Helsinki Music Nova, off-beat music festival, Aug-Sep, various venues
Helsinki Festival, festival of dance, music, theatre, Aug-Sep, various venues
Forces of Light, illumination of the city, Nov-Dec, throughout the city
Independence Day, honour guard and procession, 6 Dec, Senate Square
New Year’s Eve, 31 Dec, Senate Square

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 1.50
33cl bottle of beer: 2.50-4
Financial Times newspaper: 2.50
36-exposure colour film: 5
City-centre bus ticket: 4.50
Adult football ticket: 10-25
Three-course meal with wine/beer: 25-33.50

1 Euro (1) = 0.67; US$1.29; C$1.61; A$1.65
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005