World City Guide

Mini Guide of Geneva

City Overview

Geneva has long been Switzerland’s most cosmopolitan city. Situated at the southwestern end of Lac Lman – the country’s largest lake – and astride the Rhne, Geneva is the departure point for lake steamers. Only an arrival by water can convey just how well sited the city is, with foreground hills rising against a backdrop of mountains. The river bisects the city – some refer to the north side as the right bank (Rive Droit) and the south as the left bank (Rive Gauche). The city centre is sited on both shores, with the main railway station and the suburbs to the north of the river and the Old Town (Vieille Ville) to the south of the river.

Settled since Neolithic times, Geneva became an imperial city in 1032, under Emperor Conrad II, before achieving independence in 1530 and joining the Swiss Confederation in 1814. Geneva’s reputation for religious tolerance during the Reformation proved to be a major influence on its subsequent development. For centuries, exiles from religious or political persecution chose the city as their refuge, ranging from the English regicides in the 17th century to Lenin in the early 20th century. Even the manufacture of watches was fostered by one of the most intolerant of religious exiles, John Calvin, who lived here from 1541 to his death in 1564. This extraordinary mix of nationalities, coupled with the fact that most migrs were of an intellectual disposition, led to the establishment of disparate centres of learning. These soon developed such a fine reputation that Geneva became a popular choice for the sons (and later daughters) of well-to-do families to finish their education.

Switzerland’s famed neutrality had a part to play in encouraging international organisations to locate their headquarters in Geneva, which today boasts over 200, raising an always numerous foreign community to one-third of the population. The catalyst for choosing Geneva was the decision in 1919 to set up the headquarters of the League of Nations, predecessor of the United Nations, in the city. Although the UN moved to New York in 1945, Geneva has kept its European office in what is the second largest building on the Continent (Palace of Versailles is the largest). Other important organisations based in the city are the International Committee of the Red Cross – founded by the Swiss Henri Dunant in 1864 – and the World Health Organisation.

The city is also a major banking centre – a ‘city of wealth by stealth’ as the British actor Robert Morley put it – and plays a significant role in the manufacture of watches, scientific instruments, jewellery and foodstuffs. These roles have contributed to it being an expensive city in which to live or stay, although it has much to offer the visitor, principally the Old Town and some fine museums. Geneva is an efficient, clean city. Its excellent public transport system, coupled with the ease and pleasure of walking around the centre, make a car unnecessary, even a nuisance.

The city enjoys a mild central European climate with relatively low rainfall. The super-rich community of international civil servants and tax exiles demand good food, top hotels and entertainment and Geneva provides it all. Beneath the stereotypical veneer of diamonds and watches, however, one finds a tolerant and safe society with the Genevois strangely similar to the British – reserved but courteous.

Getting There By Air

International Airport of Geneva (GVA)
Tel: (022) 717 7111. Fax: (022) 798 4377.
Website: www.gva.ch

The airport is located five kilometres (three miles) from the city centre. The airport is served by 61 airlines carrying over seven million passengers in 1999.

Major airlines: Following the industry repercussions of 11 September 2001, the national airline, Swissair, stopped flying on 31 March 2002. Many of Swissair’s flights have been transferred to the subsidiary airline, Crossair, now renamed SWISS (tel: (084) 885 2000, for economy class, or 3000, for business class; website: www.swiss.com). Other airlines operating from the airport include Air Canada, Air France, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Japan Airlines, Lufthansa, Olympic Airways, Qantas Airways, Singapore Airlines and United Airlines.

Approximate flight times to Geneva: From London is 1 hour 30 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 20 minutes; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 23 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops, newsagents, banks, bureaux de change, ATMs, a post office, travel agency, pharmacy, laundry, hairdresser, tourist information, hotel booking, airport police office, bars and restaurants. A new frontal departure lounge is scheduled for completion in 2003. Assistance is available for the disabled (tel: (022) 799 3345 or 717 8027). Car hire providers include Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

Business facilities: The Skycom Business Centre (tel: (022) 788 1430; fax: (022) 788 1431; e-mail: skycom@bluewin.ch) provides 11 fully equipped meeting and conference rooms (accommodating four to 120 people) and eight fully equipped private offices with PC, fax and modem, as well as restaurants, catering, secretarial and translation services, TV lounge and bar. Facilities are available Monday-Friday 0800-1800.

Arrival/departure tax: There is a departure tax of SFr16. No arrival tax is levied.

Transport to the city: Transports Publics Genevois – TPG (tel: (022) 308 3434; website: www.tpg.ch) operates a bus route (bus 10) to the city centre 0538-2420 (journey time – 35 minutes) for SFr2.20. CFF (tel: (051) 220 1111 or (0900) 300 300; website: www.cff.ch) trains leave every ten minutes from Cointrin railway station at the airport 0617-2423 (journey time – 6 minutes) and cost: SFr5 (single). Taxis to the city centre cost about SFr30-35 (journey time – 15-20 minutes).

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Road signs sporting a green ‘A’ indicate international highways, blue indicates major international routes, and white the smaller routes. Swiss roads are generally good, although mountain routes can be narrow and winding. Chains and/or snow tyres may be required in winter, while after a heavy snowfall, some routes may be closed altogether. There is a general telephone number for information on national road conditions (tel: 163). Cars drive on the right. The maximum speed limits are 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 80kph (50mph) on main roads, and 50kph (31mph) in towns. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08% and the minimum driving age is 18 years. The wearing of seatbelts, both in the front and back seats of the vehicle, is compulsory. An annual road tax of SFr40 (plus an extra SFr40 for caravans) is levied; motorists should purchase a vignette (sticker) at border points or from Switzerland Tourism before departure. Stickers are valid for one calendar year. A national driving licence is sufficient documentation but Green Card insurance is recommended.

There are two motoring associations in Switzerland: Touring Club Suisse – TCS (tel: (01) 286 8686) and Automobil Club der Schweiz – ACS (tel: (01) 422 1500).

Emergency breakdown service:
Touring Club Suisse (TCS) 140

Routes to the city: Geneva is connected to the rest of Europe by an excellent network of motorways. From the south, motorists can follow the ‘Route Blanche’ to the outskirts of Geneva. Chamonix and Mont-Blanc are within one-and-a-half hours, and Italy (via the Mont-Blanc tunnel) is within two hours. A branch of the same motorway provides rapid links from Grenoble in the south and Lyon in the west, with good connections from Paris. Lausanne, Berne and Zurich are all on the northbound A1 road.

Approximate driving times to Geneva: From Lausanne – 45 minutes; Berne – 1 hour 45 minutes; and Zurich – 3 hours.

Coach services: Genevas coach station, Gare Routire, is situated at Place Dorcire (tel: (022) 732 0230; fax: (022) 731 8547; e-mail: info@gare-routiere.ch; website: www.gare-routiere.ch). A number of operators provide regular links to Barcelona, Dover, Lisbon, London, Lyons, Madrid, Marseilles, Nice, Rome and the French skiing resort of Chamonix/Mont-Blanc. Service providers include Eurolines-Eggman & Frey (e-mail: mailbox@eurolines-schweiz.ch; website: www.eurolines-schweiz.ch) and Citybus (tel: (022) 785 4369; fax: (022) 7854110; website: www.citybus.ch).

Getting There By Rail

SBB-CFF – Schweizerische Budesbahn, Chemins de Fer Fdraux Suisses (tel: (051) 220 1111 or (0900) 300 300; website: www.cff.ch) is the national railway system, covering most of the country. However, in many alpine areas, the rail is still operated by whichever private company initially provided the service in that area – this should, however, only affect travellers who are far from the many tourist areas. Rail travel in Switzerland is comfortable, free of hassles, punctual and almost always scenic.

The main railway station is Gare de Cornavin, Place de Cornavin. Facilities include bureau de change, left luggage, newsagent and post office. Further information is available from national rail enquiries (tel: (0900) 100 100).

Rail services: The Swiss rail network provides rapid connections within Switzerland and Europe, with hourly links from Lausanne, Berne, Basel and Zurich to Geneva. Over two hundred trains travel daily through the city and airport of Geneva, many of which are on international routes. From Paris, it takes three hours and 30 minutes by TGV. Overnight trains Pablo Casals and Catalan-Talgo connect Geneva with Barcelona (journey time – 8 hours 40 minutes), and there are InterCity and EuroCity trains to Italian cities including Milan (journey time – 4 hours 15 minutes).

Transport to the city: Cornavin station is in the city centre and is a hub for the bus and tram network.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Geneva’s superb bus and tram network, operated by Transports Publics Genevois – TPG (tel: (022) 308 3434; fax: (022) 308 3400; e-mail: cim@tpg.ch; website: www.tpg.ch), won the European transport prize in 1999. Although timetables may differ, depending on which line is taken, services in general operate between 0500 and 2430.

It is illegal to board a bus or tram without a pre-purchased or validated ticket. Coin-operated vending machines (where tickets can also be validated) are situated at all bus and tramway stops. These provide tickets, which allow free circulation for one hour, costing SFr2.20 (including transfers), or cheaper tickets for three-stop trips with a return within 30 minutes, costing SFr1.80. Multiple tickets are also available.

A one-day unireso pass (SFr6 for two zones or SFr12 for all zones) for buses, trams, trains and ‘Mouette’ boats, are available for purchase at CFF stations, TPG sales offices and tourist information offices.

Taxis
Taxis can be ordered by phone, hailed in the street or found in one of the 60 authorised taxi ranks around the city. Taxi drivers are required by law to be able to speak English, although this does not apply to minicab drivers. Taxi-Phone Centrale SA Genve, Genevas central taxi service (tel: (022) 331 4133; fax: (022) 331 4122; e-mail: info@taxi-phone.ch; website: www.taxi-phone.ch), provides a 24-hour daily service.

The fare is shown on the meter, which includes a tip and VAT. Rates are SFr6.30 flagfall, then SFr2.90 per kilometre (rates rise at night and on Sunday). A tip and VAT are included in the price, however, it is customary for customers to round up the fare to the nearest Franc.

Limousines
Providers include Arc Limousines Services SA, Rue de Malatrex 32 (tel: (022) 339 0888), Elite Limousine, Rue des Pquis 51 (tel: (022) 731 8111 (24 hours); website: www.elite.ch) and Avis SA, Rue de Lausanne 44 (tel: (022) 731 9000). Rates are approximately SFr680 for a day’s hire.

Driving in the City
The roads in Geneva are good and rarely congested. There are extra low speed limits on narrow sections of road, such as in the Old Town. White markings signify unlimited parking, while blue indicates 90 minutes parking and red, 15 minutes. Parking discs are compulsory and can be obtained from police stations. Once in possession of this disk, parking is free of charge. Underground parking costs approximately SFr30 for 24 hours. The main car parks are situated at Rue du Mont-Blanc, Place de Cornavin and Rue Henri Dunant.

Car Hire
Cars can be hired at the airport, railway station and hotels. Bookings can be made directly or via car companies. A national driving licence and credit card are required. Drivers must be aged 21 years or older. Providers include Avis SA (tel: (022) 731 9000; website: www.avis.ch), Budget (tel: (022) 900 2400; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz (tel: (022) 731 1200; website: www.hertz.ch). Rates range from SFr157.90 to SFr183 per day, for a small car.

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles can be hired from Cornavin railway station (tel: (0512) 251 482), Hot-Point, Rue des Pquis 22 (tel: (022) 740 1343) and Genv’Roule, Place de Montbrilliant 17 and Bains des Pquis (tel: (022) 740 1343). Rates are SFr26 (adults), SFr20 (children). Genv’Roule (formerly Veloc) offer bicycles from May to October, for SFr5.

Business

Business Profile
Geneva is a thriving industrial, financial and business capital, with unemployment at just 4.8% – although this is higher than the national average, which stood at 2.4% in 2001. The presence of over 100 consulates, diplomatic missions and international chambers of commerce, in addition to Geneva’s favourable social climate, encourages foreign companies to establish their European or international headquarters in Geneva. Among the multinational companies present are AT&T, Compaq, Elizabeth Arden, Hewlett Packard, IBM, Iomega, Levi Strauss, Motorola, Reuters and Shiseido.

Geneva’s industrial sector employs nearly 40,000 people, 15.1% of the workforce. Areas of expertise include precision machinery and engineering, clock- and watch-making, fine jewellery production, electrical and electronic industries, automation and computer science, building industry, perfume industry, chemical and pharmaceutical industry, and the graphic arts. Service industries account for 85% of the workforce. Several scientific research groups have their headquarters in Geneva, the most important being the European Centre for Nuclear Research (CERN) and the Battelle Institute.

Geneva’s industrial strength is built on the city’s reliable network of banking and finance, which dates back to the days of Calvin. Today, there are 138 Swiss banks, 77 foreign banks and 233 financial companies. Geneva is world-famous for its private banks, tailored to manage large sums of money – 120 of the banks manage about SFr1200 billion, representing 10% of worldwide transactions. Geneva is third in the world for the number of its annual congresses, meetings and fairs. Major international events include the Motor Show, Commercial Vehicle Show, Exhibition of Inventions and Book Fair.

Although economic growth was above 3% in 2000, it fell to approximately 1.3% in 2001. However, continuing diversification has rendered Geneva less sensitive to international business cycles than it was at the beginning of the 1990s.

Older businesses, especially banks, are located south of the river in the Old Town. A new business district of Geneva-Meyrin (within the Golden Triangle) is a five-minute drive from the Palexpo exhibition and congress centre, the international airport and Genve-Cointrin, or 15 minutes from the city centre.

Business Etiquette
Business hours are Monday to Friday 0730-1700 (with one or two hours for lunch). Genevois are punctual people, so promptness pays. Company structures remain hierarchical, particularly within the financial sector. It is, therefore, wise to approach those at the top. Meetings are commonly held over lunch and dinner but rarely breakfast, and Genevois appreciate an invitation to a top restaurant. Suits should be worn but without ostentation. Since English is widely spoken – although an attempt to speak French is always appreciated – business cards do not need to be translated. A little introductory chit-chat is usually expected but overly personal topics are best avoided. During meetings, Genevois like to stick to business – humour is considered inappropriate and does not cross cultural barriers easily. Business relationships and negotiations tend to develop slowly and visitors should adopt the local pace. If invited to a Genevois’ home, a gift of unwrapped flowers is appropriate, although red roses, chrysanthemums and white asters should be avoided, as these are traditionally associated with death.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Most of Geneva’s attractions can be covered on foot, with the exception of Lake Geneva (Lac Lman). Motorboats, affectionately named mouettes (seagulls), crisscross the lake, providing excellent views of Geneva, as well as a close-up shot of the city emblem, the Jet d’Eau. The Old Town is dominated by the Cathdrale St-Pierre, situated next to the Auditoire, the church in which Calvin taught and John Knox preached and supervised the production of the Geneva Bible. In the city centre, there is the Ile Rousseau, a little island in the River Rhne, off the Pont des Bergues, with a statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau and a superb view of the port of Geneva.

Geneva is known as the ‘City of Parks’. As well as the Jardin Anglais, the city centre boasts the Promenade des Bastions, below the Old Town walls, which contains the famous Reformation Wall and giant outdoor chess pieces. Many of the parks are situated on the shores of the lake. On the rive gauche (left bank) are the Eaux-Vives and La Grange – the latter contains the ruins of a Roman villa and fine rose garden, where the annual International Rose Competition is held. On the rive droite (right bank), Ariana Park surrounds the museum of that name and the Palais des Nations, while nearer to the lake is the Jardin Botanique. The central point of the River Rhne is marked by the ruins of a medieval fort, the Tour de l’Ile.

Tourist Information
Geneva Tourist Office
Rue du Mont-Blanc 18
Tel: (022) 909 7000. Fax: (022) 909 7075.
E-mail: info@geneve-tourisme.ch
Website: www.geneve-tourisme.ch
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 0800-1700 (15 Jun-1 Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1800 (2 Sep-14 Jun).

A new, centrally located office recently opened at the Pont-de-la-Machine.

Passes
There are no passes giving discounts to attractions, seeing as two-thirds of the city’s museums do not charge for admission.

Key Attractions

Cathdral de St Pierre (St Peter’s Cathedral)
Built between 1160 and 1289, St Peter’s Cathedral is surprisingly small. Even more surprising is its combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and neo-classical styles. The austerity of the main body of the church is wholly appropriate for a building in which John Calvin preached (1536-1564). However, the 15th-century Chapel of the Maccabees, restored in 1875, is a riot of gilded embellishment against blue and red grounds that recall the decoration of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch by William Burges. The neo-classical faade was added in 1750. Under the cathedral is one of Europe’s largest underground archaeological sites with some good 14th-century mosaics, while the top of the north tower offers fine views over the old town and lake.

Cour St-Pierre
Tel: (022) 311 7575. Fax: (022) 310 0225.
Transport: Bus 2, 3, 5, 7 or 17; tram 12 or 16.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1200 and 1400-1700, Sun 1100-1230 and 1330-1700 (Oct-May); Mon-Sat 0900-1900 and Sun 1100-1900 (Jun-Sep).
Admission: Free (cathedral); SFr3 (north tower).

Jardin Anglais (English Garden)
The English Garden, dating from 1854, is home to the Monument National, a statue of two young women – the ‘Republic of Geneva’ and ‘Helvetia’ – symbolising Geneva’s attachment to the Swiss Confederation on 12 September 1814. Within the park there is an elegant bronze fountain and L’Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) – decorated with over 6300 plants – that was installed in 1955 to honour Geneva’s watch-making industry. The clock is the largest in the world – five metres (16.4ft) in diameter and 17.7m (58ft) in circumference. Its second hand advances nearly 27cm (10.6 inches) per second.

Quai Gnral Guisan
Transport: Bus 2, 9 or 10.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Jet d’Eau (Water Fountain)
The famed Water Fountain is the Eiffel Tower of Geneva, an impressive 140m (459ft) fountain that dominates the Geneva harbour and all modern depictions of the city. The Jet was originally the safety valve for the city’s water supply and is Europe’s tallest fountain. This water showpiece is illuminated at night, however, during the day, the fountain takes care of the special effects for itself – when the sun shines, a rainbow hovers behind the powerful jet of water, which spurts straight up into the sky at a speed of 200kph (125mph).

On the Rive Gauche, off Quai Gustave Ador and the Horloge Fleurie in the Jardin Anglais.
Operating hours: Daily 0930-2315 (Mar-mid-Oct), subject to weather conditions.

Mur des Rformateurs (Reformation Wall)
Construction of the 60ft (18m) Reformation Wall began in 1909, on the 400th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin. The monument is dedicated to the four figures central to the Reformation movement – John Calvin (1509-64), Thodore de Bze (1513-1605), John Knox (1513-72) and Guillaume Farel (1549-65).

Promenade des Bastions
Transport: Bus 3 or 5.
Opening hours: Dawn to dusk.
Admission: Free.

Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens)
Geneva’s world-renowned Botanical Gardens were created by the botanist A P de Candolle, in the Parc des Bastions in 1817. Relocated to their present site in 1901, the 28-hectare (69-acre) gardens have greenhouses with tropical plants from six continents, a pond brimming with aquatic plants, thousands of flowers, a garden of the senses, an aviary and a park of rare animals, as well as a research laboratory, herbarium collection and extensive library.

Chemin de l’Impratrice 1, 1292 Chambsy
Tel: (022) 418 5100. Fax: (022) 418 5101.
Website: www.cjb.unige.ch
Transport: Bus 4 or 18.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar); daily 0800-1930 (Apr-Sep); greenhouses closed Fri.
Admission: Free.

Palais des Nations (Palace of Nations)
This vast building, designed in the form of a double horseshoe and set in a park with century-old trees, is the largest United Nations centre after New York. It was built between 1929 and 1937 to host the League of Nations, the precursor to the UN. Visits are extremely popular and allow entrance to certain conference rooms (including the Council Room with frescoes by Jos Maria Sert, and the Assembly Hall) and an opportunity to sign the Livre d’Or, the golden book of peace.

Avenue de la Paix 14
Tel: (022) 907 4896. Fax: (022) 907 0032.
E-mail: visit-gva@unog.ch
Website: www.unog.ch/frames/visit.htm
Transport: Bus 5, 8, 11, 14, 18, F, V or Z.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200 and 1400-1600 (Apr-May and Sep-Oct); daily 0900-1800 (Jul-Aug); Mon-Fri 1000-1200 and 1400-1600 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: SFr8.50; concessions available.

MAMCO (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art)
Situated in a former factory, this museum extends over four floors that are best visited from top to bottom. One of the permanent displays is L’Appartement, a faithful reproduction of a Parisian collector’s flat, for which he has loaned his own furniture, paintings and sculptures.

Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10
Tel: (022) 320 6122. Fax: (022) 781 5681.
E-mail: mamco@mamco.ch
Website: www.mamco.ch
Transport: Bus 1 or 4 to Ecole-de-Mdecine; tram 12 to Rond-Point de Plainpalais or 13 to Place de Cirque.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1200-1800, Tues 1200-2100.
Admission: SFr8; concessions available.

Muse International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum)
With a powerful combination of audiovisuals, sculpture, computers and documentation, this extraordinary museum tells the story of the founding of the Red Cross by Henry Dunant, as well as its present humanitarian actions. It is Geneva’s most impressive and original museum. The Caf Dinant also is a multimedia area.

Avenue de la Paix 17
Tel: (022) 748 9525. Fax: (022) 748 9528.
Website: www.micr.org
Transport: Bus 8, F, V or Z.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700 (museum); Mon, Wed-Fri 1000-1700, Tue, Sat-Sun 1130-1430 (Caf Dinant).
Admission: SFr10; concessions available.

Muse d’art et d’histoire (Museum of Art and History)
The Museum of Art and History presents a multidiscipline approach to history – from prehistoric times to the present – through important collections of fine art, archaeology and applied art, including arms and armour, costumes and musical instruments. The most celebrated work is Konrad Witz’s early 15th-century painting, Le pche miraculeuse.

Rue Charles-Galland 2
Tel: (022) 418 2600. Fax: (022) 418 2601.
E-mail: mah@ville-ge.ch
Website: http://mah.ville-ge.ch
Transport: Bus 1, 3, 8, 17.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700.
Admission: Free.

Muse de l’Horlogerie et de l’maillerie (Clock and Watch Museum)
Set in an attractive Palladian townhouse, this museum traces the development of Genevois clock making, which began in the 17th century and reached its height in 1785. Of particular interest is the watch that was owned and made by Jean-Jacques Rousseau’s grandfather – in the form of a skull that splits in half to reveal the time – and an astronomic automated clock made in 1711.

Route de Malagnou 15
Tel: (022) 418 6470. Fax: (022) 418 6471.
E-mail: mhe@ville-ge.ch
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/horlogerie.htm
Transport: Bus 1, 8, 20, 27 or 88; tram 12 or 16.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1700.
Admission: Free, SFr4.50 (temporary exhibitions).

Maison Tavel (Tavel House)
The one-towered Tavel House is named after the noble Tavel family, who lived here in the 14th century. Today a museum, it provides an insight into the day-to-day lives of Genevois from the 14th to 19th centuries. The attic houses the Magnin Maquette of 1896, a huge relief model of Geneva before 1850, with its city walls still in place.

Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 6
Tel: (022) 418 3700. Fax: (022) 418 3701.
E-mail: mah@ville-ge.ch
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/tavel.htm
Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sun 1000-1700, closed Tues.
Transport: Bus 2, 7, 16 or 36; tram 12.
Admission: Free; SFr1.50-2.50 (temporary exhibitions).

Further Distractions

Carouge
This little artisan town, two kilometres (one mile) south of the city centre, is full of book and antique restorers, glass blowers, watchmakers, clothes designers, hatters, bistros and restaurants. In 1772, the people of Turin (the capital of the kingdom of Sardinia) came to set up a town to rival Geneva. Carouge changed hands frequently but, in 1816, the town was annexed to Geneva and became Swiss. Its architecture remains Italianate in style and the narrow streets are straight and orderly, with apartments looking onto wide, green courtyards. Many are open to the public, such as the courtyard of Rue Vautier (opposite number 43) and the courtyard of the Muse de Carouge.

Carouge
Website: www.carouge.ch
Transport: Tram 11, 12, 13, 14, 18, 41 or 45 from the city centre.

Muse de Carouge
Place de Sardaigne 2
Tel: (022) 342 3383. Fax: (022) 342 3381.
E-mail: musee@carouge.ch
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/carouge.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1400-1800.
Entrance: Free.

Large Electron Positron Collider
The world’s largest scientific instrument straddles the border between Switzerland and France, just outside Geneva. Operated by CERN (European Centre for Nuclear Research), the instrument lies in a 27km- (17 mile-) long tunnel. It is used to study the outcome of high-speed collision between constituent parts of atoms, mimicking – for a split second – the apparent state of the universe at the moment of its creation. The exhibition explains how particles are accelerated to near the speed of light and what has been learnt from over a decade of experiments.

Off the road to St Genis, France, on the Route de Meyrin
Tel: (022) 767 4052 or 8484. Fax: (022) 767 8710.
E-mail: visits.service@cern.ch
Website: http://welcome.cern.ch
Transport: Bus 15.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Geneva Tourist Office (tel: (022) 909 7000) provides a portable audiocassette to enhance a two-and-a-half-hour walk through the labyrinthine streets of the Old Town, to the Cathdrale St-Pierre, the Treille Promenade, the Arsenal and Reformation Wall. A fee of SFr10, plus a refundable deposit of SFr50, is required. In addition, the tourist office provides themed guided tours from 15 June to 30 September (on request during the rest of the year) from SFr12. All walking tours depart from the Geneva Tourist Office, Pont de la Machine 1. Tours are also available from the Association of Guides (tel: (022) 909 7000).

Bus Tours
The Geneva Tourist Office (tel: (022) 909 7000), operating as Key Tours, organises a choice of two-hour tours, costing SFr35 (SFr39 May-Oct) and covering the star attractions of the city. A three-hour tour, which includes a visit to the Palais des Nations, is also available. Pick-up points are the airport, the Hotel InterContinetal, Chemin du Petit-Sconnex 7-9 and the bus station, Gare routire in Place Dorsire.

Water Tours
One of the best ways to see Geneva, in fair weather, is to take a mouette and tour the lake. The boats (with guided commentary in English) operate regularly from Place du Molard to Quai du Mont-Blanc and Quai Gustave-Ador. Mouettes Genevoises Navigation (tel: (022) 732 2944; fax: (022) 738 7988) departs from the Quai de Mont-Blanc 8 (opposite the Hilton-Grand Casino), while Swissboat (tel: (022) 732 4747; fax: (079) 259 5262) sets off from Quai de Mont-Blanc 4 (opposite Htel Beau-Rivage). A one-hour tour costs approximately SFr12. The two-hour Chteau tour to the French border costs about SFr22. Smaller companies offer better value.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Chteau de Chillon and Montreux: Situated on the north shore, at the eastern end of Lake Geneva, Montreux is the gateway to skiing resorts, such as Gstaad, as well as the mountains of the Valais Cantan (of which the Matterhorn is the most famous). The town is 93km (58 miles) from Geneva and can be reached by frequent trains and ferries during the summer. Montreaux is excellent for all kinds of sports (including mountain-biking, rafting and paragliding) and close to the most famous chteau in Switzerland, the Chteau de Chillon (website: www.chillon.ch), open daily 0900-1815 from April to September, 1000-1200 and 1330-1600 from October to March). Entrance is SFr8.50. Built on Roman foundations in the 13th century, the chteau was visited by Byron, who sailed here with Shelley and consequently wrote the prose poem Prisoner of Chillon (1816). From Montreaux, the chteau can be reached by a 45-minute walk along Lake Geneva, or directly by tram 1. Montreux Tourism Pavilion Information Centre, Place du Dbarcadre (tel: (021) 962 8436; fax: (021) 963 8113; e-mail: tourism@montreux.ch; website: www.montreux.ch/tourism), provides further information.

For a Whole Day

Lausanne: This lakeside city, just 61km (38 miles) from Geneva, is easily reached by a 40-minute train journey from Cornavin station. Lausanne’s pedestrianised, hilly streets are perfect for wandering. The Rue du Pont leads to the Place de la Palud, with its fountain and Renaissance Mairie (town hall). Nearby, the turreted towers of the Romanesque-Gothic cathedral offer the best views of Lausanne, Lake Geneva and the Savoy Alps. The Muse Historique de Lausanne has a rich collection of religious art, while the Muse Cantonal des Beaux-Arts displays local artists. To the city’s south, at Quai d’Ouchy, the Olympic Museum vaunts the sporting history of Lausanne, the ‘Olympic World Capital’ (website: www.museum.olympic.org). Lausanne Tourisme is located at Avenue de Rhodanie 2, 1000 Lausanne 6 (tel: (021) 613 7373; fax: (021) 616 8647; e-mail: information@lausanne-tourisme.ch; website: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch).

Sport

Sport is an integral part of Genevois life, especially skiing, due to the city’s location near the Alps. The famous Swiss resorts, such as Gstaad, Crans-Montana and Zermatt, or the French towns of Chamonix and Val d’Isre, are just a couple of hours away. Lake Geneva is used for sailing, rowing, water-skiing and swimming, while the Rhne and Arve rivers allow canoeing and rafting. Horseriding is popular and the Jura Mountains are good terrain for hiking and biking. Major events include the International Triathlon Competition in September and a string of international regattas on the lake, which includes the Bol d’Or in June, Europe’s largest inland-water sailing race, attracting over 600 boats from all over the world. December is the month for popular local sports events, such as the Escalade Run, a seven-kilometre (four-mile) run through the Old Town, and the Coupe de Nol, a swimming competition in the icy lake.

It is only in the last few years that Geneva has become a force to be reckoned with in Swiss football. Servette FC Genve (website: www.servettefc.ch) were Swiss champions in 1998/1999 and won the Cup in 2000/2001, however, only finished fifth in the League and fourth in the 2001/2002 Cup. A new stadium, Stadt de Genve (e-mail: info@stade.ch; website: www.stade.ch), with a commercial and leisure centre is being built south of the city centre, in the Route de Jeunes, near Avenue Vibert (just before the entrance to Autoroute 1a). The first phase, the business and leisure centre, will open 13 November, while Servette FC will play its first game at this 30,000-seat stadium on 4 March 2003. The official opening is slated for June 2003. Meanwhile, Servette FC continues to play at the Stade de Charmilles, Chemin des Sports (tel: (022) 340 2717).

Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase from the relevant venues.

Fitness Centres: Silhouette Eaux-Vives, Route de Frontenex 39B (tel: (022) 786 1822), is open Monday to Friday 0800-2200 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1900. Silhouette Wilson SA, Rue J-A Gautier 12 (tel: (022) 732 8050), is open Monday to Friday 0900-2100 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700.

Golf: Le Golf Club de Genve, Route de La-Capite 70, Cologny (tel: (022) 707 4800), allows non-members to play for SFr100.

Squash: The Squash Club de Genve, Chemin du Joli-Bois 3, Chambsy (tel: (022) 758 2207; e-mail: geneva-squash@bluewin.ch; website: www.geneva-squash.ch), is open daily 0900-1430 and 1730-2300 and charges SFr15 per person for 45 minutes of play. A reservation is required.

Swimming: The centrally located Piscine de Vernets, Rue Hans Wilsdorf 4-6 (tel: (022) 418 4000), is open Tuesday and Friday 0900-2000, Wednesday 0900-2100, Thursday 0900-1700, Saturday 0900-1800 and Sunday 0900-1700.

Tennis: Tennis Club Genve Eaux-Vives, Parc des Eaux-Vives, Quai Gustave-Ador 82 (tel: (022) 735 5350), has 17 tennis courts for members only. Tennis Club Genve Champel, Route de Vessy 41 (tel: (022) 784 2566), has 11 tennis courts and charges SFr25 in summer for one hour and SFr40 in winter (reservations are required). Both of the above clubs can be contacted at the website: www.tc-geneve.ch. Le Tennis du Bois Carr, Chemin des Bcherons 14, 1234 Vessy (tel: (022) 784 3006), is a 15-minute drive from Geneva and has 13 courts available for SFr20 for one hour in summer and SFr30 in winter.

Shopping

Geneva’s exclusive shops centre around the perimeters of the Rues Basses – the chic Rue du Rhne, Rue de la Confdration, Rue du March and Rue de la Croix-d’Or. Watch and jewellery shops line these streets quite literally with gold. The main department stores can also be found here – Bon Gnie, Rue du March 34, Globus, Rue du Rhne 48, and EPA, Rue de la Croix d’Or 4. General shopping hours are Monday to Friday 0830-1845 (Thursday until 1800) and Saturday 0800-1700.

For a lightweight gift, excellent Swiss chocolate is sold at Rhne, Rue de la Confdration 3, and at Martel, Rue du March 8, in Carouge. Meanwhile, for a stroll around the antiques quarter and art galleries, a visit to the Old Town and the St-Gervais and Pquis districts is in order.

Geneva has many outdoor markets. The flower market on the Place du Molard and the clothes and book market on the Place de la Madeleine are open daily. Flea markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday, at the Plaine de Plainpalais (0800-1800). On Tuesday and Friday morning, the same spot is used for a colourful fruit and vegetable market (0800-1300). On Thursday, regional handicrafts are sold at the Place de la Fusterie (0800-1900).

Visitors should ask in shops for a tax-free shopping cheque and reclaim the 7.5% VAT, for purchases over SFr500, at Geneva airport.

Culture

It was Voltaire’s own theatrical productions in the Chteau de Ferney, in 1759, that initiated the theatrical tradition in Geneva. In 1783, the Thtre de Neuve was built and this was replaced by the present Grand Thtre de Genve, designed in the style of the Second Empire and directly inspired by the Paris Opera House. Today, the 1500-seat theatre is extremely active, with strong opera, ballet and choral seasons.

The Geneva Tourist Office and weekly guide Genve Agenda (in French and English) provide information on cultural events and performance in the city. The central ticket office, Billetel (tel: (022) 311 9970; website: www.billetel.org), is located at Arcade d’Information, on the Pont de la Machine.

Music: Pinchas Steinberg succeeded Fabio Luisi as the artistic director of the Orchestre de la Suisse Romande (website: www.osr.ch) in January 2001. The majority of productions are performed in the Grand Thtre, Boulevard du Thtre 11 (tel: (022) 418 3130; website: www.geneveopera.ch). The orchestral season runs from September to June and the repertoire ranges from classical to contemporary. The prestigious Victoria Hall, Rue du Gnral-Dufour 14 (tel: (022) 328 8121), welcomes local groups, such as Geneva Chamber Music, as well as international orchestras and performers. The building was financed by the British Consul General, Daniel Firzerlad Barton, and named after both the British monarch and his own wife Victoria Alexandra. It was originally built for the consul’s orchestra, L’Harmonie Nautique (website: www.harmonie-nautique.ch), which played during the boating season, from 1891-93, and was given to the city in 1904. The climax of the musical year is the International Competition for Musical Performers, a contest for young international musicians. Many important concerts are given by students at the Conservatoire de Musique, Rue Petitot 8 (tel: (022) 319 6060; website: www.cmusge.ch). There are about eight major opera productions per year, performed largely at the Grand Thtre but also at the Salle Thodore Turrettini, Place des Volontaires 2, in the Btiment des Forces Motrices, a former factory on the banks of the River Rhne.

Theatre: Geneva has some 40 theatres, whose repertoires range from classical to avant-garde. While plays are normally in French, there are several popular English-language amateur groups. The main venue is the Comdie de Genve, Boulevard des Philosophes 6 (tel: (022) 320 5001), which has a classical and contemporary repertoire. The Thtre Le Poche-Genve, Rue du Cheval-Blanc 7 (tel: (022) 310 3759), founded in 1978, specialises in contemporary drama.

Dance: Giorgio Mancini is responsible for the artistic direction of the Ballet du Grand Thtre (website: www.geneveopera.ch), with a varied repertory that ranges from neo-classical to contemporary. In addition to the main ballet season from September to June, the company organises a number of thematic evenings at the Grand Thtre, Boulevard du Thtre 11 (tel: (022) 418 3130), and in local theatres, such as the Thtre du Loup, Chemin de la Gravire 10. The 46-strong choir of the Grand Thtre, regularly participates in the ballet and opera seasons.

Film: Geneva is the cinema capital of French-speaking Switzerland. Homegrown stars include Jean-Luc Bideau, whose career was launched by Swiss director Alain Tanner in La Salamandre (1971). The most well known, among over 30 cinemas (website: www.cinema.ch), are the large 7 Rialto Metrocine complex, Place de Cornavin 27 (tel: (0900) 900 156), and the Central, Rue de Chantepoulet 23 (tel: (022) 908 0430, for information in English). There are also many arthouse cinemas, including Scala, Rue des Eaux-Vives 23 (tel: (022) 736 0422). Many English-language films are shown in their original version (VO) and French-language versions often have English subtitles.

Cultural events: Geneva’s main cultural event is the Et Musicale (Musical Summer) of live concerts, including chamber music, jazz concerts and recitals, from July to September. Summer is also the time for open-air everything. Popular films are shown in the city’s open-air cinema, Cinlac, by the lakeside, from July to August. National Day, 1 August, brings fireworks at the Reformation Wall, traditional bonfires and dancing. This is followed closely by the Ftes de Genve’s street parades, street theatre and fireworks, 2-11 August. The annual international film festival, Cinma Tout Ecran, takes place in October (website: www.cinema-tout-ecran.ch). Free concerts are held in churches all year round.

There are two major musical events worth stepping just outside of Geneva for and both take place in July. The Palo Festival (tel: (022) 361 0101; website: www.paleo.ch) in nearby Nyon, is Switzerland’s biggest open-air festival. It includes everything musical, from classical to techno, bringing together major names like Prodigy, Charles Trenet and Steve Waring. The Montreux Jazz Festival (tel: (021) 623 4567; website: www.montreuxjazz.com) showcases a mixture of jazz musicians and pop stars. Former performers include Bob Dylan, Buddy Guy, B B King and Bjrk.

Meanwhile, back in Geneva, the Fte de l’Escalade (website: www.escalade.ch) is Geneva’s independence celebration, which commemorates the city’s victory over the Duke of Savoy’s troops on 11 December 1602. Each year, fine-quality Swiss chocolate pots (Marmite d’Escalade) bearing the city’s coat of arms in red and gold and adorned with marzipan ‘vegetables’ are eaten in large quantities. These represent sweet reminders of the cauldron of boiling soup that Mre Royaume poured over the city walls to keep the enemy at bay and bring victory to Geneva. It’s a colourful affair as people parade through in the streets in 17th-century dress to the sounds of fifes and drums.

Literary Notes
Geneva has inspired some of Europe’s greatest philosophers and writers. Paris-born Franois Marie Arouet Voltaire (1694-1778) fled from the persecution of the French Church and State to arrive in Geneva in 1755. He stayed in Les Dlices, which he fondly described as ‘the palace of a philosopher with the garden of an epicure’. The mansion is now a documentation centre, the Institut et Muse Voltaire, Rue des Dlices 25 (tel: (022) 344 7133). In Candide (1759), Voltaire described the crushing injustices of the world. An equally convincing argument for freedom and justice came in the form of The Social Contract (1762), by Geneva-born Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778). Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Bryron’s stay in Geneva gave rise to Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein (1818). The city has most recently inspired actor Sir Peter Ustinov; his novel, Monsieur Ren (1999), is set in modern Geneva.

Nightlife

The majority of nightlife venues suit a cross section of Geneva’s society. Gentlemen with curled white moustaches and wearing smart suits enjoy the same bars as the young professionals and students. And all generations enjoy soaking up the evening sun during the long, summer nights. The only disadvantage in this apparently conflict-free society is that it does lack edge – it is hard to be truly wild in Geneva. Many restaurants double up as bars later in the evening and clubs also often have a restaurant area. Clubs and bars centre on a number of English-style pubs on either side of the river, especially in the suburb of Carouge (a 20-minute ride on tram 12, across the River Arve).

Opening hours vary, some bars open daily from mid-morning, others open early evening and close at 0600. Beers cost around SFr3-5 or more for imported bottled beers, while spirits are generally double that price. The minimum age for purchasing alcohol is 18 years and dress is generally smart.

Weekly guides, available from the tourist office, are Geneva Agenda and What's On in Geneva. Online information is also available (website: www.geneva-guide.ch).

Bars: The Old Town is a good starting point for a night out. La Clmence, Place du Bourg-de-Four 20, is extremely popular, particularly in the summer when crowds of all ages enjoy the large terrace. The bar-restaurant at the gilded Bohme, Boulevard Helvtique 36, is a good place to move on to – the mix of Arab and techno music is popular and the atmosphere is relatively relaxed, although trainers are not allowed. The most alternative bars in the city are scattered around Place des Volontaires, including L’Interdit disco, on the nearby Quai du Seujet 18. Le Deuxime Bureau, Rue du Stand, near the vast performance space of l’Usine, is large, very hip and serves excellent cocktails – as does Le Cactus Club, Rue Chaponnire, off Rue de Mont-Blanc, near Cornavin train station.

Casinos: The Casino de Genve, Quai du Mont-Blanc 19, is located under the prestigious Noga Hilton Hotel and is well equipped with over 100 slot machines. Opening hours are 1200 to 0400 daily and smart dress is appropriate. The minimum age is 18 years and a passport or ID is required for admission.

Clubs: Geneva is not particularly known for its clubs and many people prefer to go to Lausanne. Nevertheless, the intimate Club 58, Rue des Glacis de Rive 15, has a bar, restaurant, dance floor and chic clientele. At the other extreme is Arthur’s Club, the largest discotheque in Switzerland, with a capacity of 3000. Situated at Route du Pr-Bois 20, close to the airport, this club attracts a cosmopolitan crowd and plays anything from funk to house, groove to mambo on its three dancefloors. Arthur’s is open Friday and Saturday only (Saturday entrance is SFr25 and includes a complimentary drink). Smart dress is required – jeans and trainers are not allowed.

Live music: The ‘in’ bar, restaurant and disco, Le Baroque Caf, Place de la Fusterie 12, draws an international clientele of all ages. Live bands play jazz on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, while for the rest of the week, DJs are featured. At La Maison Blanche, Confdration Centre 8, a DJ alternates with live piano music to create a mellow atmosphere. L’Usine, Place des Volontaires 4, has a bar, large dancefloor, cinema and regular live performances. In spite of its alternative reputation, the occasional middle-aged mother will still accompany her daughter to live concerts. The Au Chat Noir, Rue Vautier 13, is a more dignified live music venue. French singers and jazz musicians perform early on, until the DJs take over, playing salsa on Friday and Saturday and funk on Tuesday. Rhythm and Blues is featured at Griffin’s, Boulevarde Helvtique 36, on weeknights and at Temi’s Bar-Disco, Rue Winkelried 4 (website: www.temis.ch). Salsa is favoured at L’Abag, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10, in the courtyard of MAMCO, while La Pirogue, Ruelle des Templiers 4 (website: www.pirogue.ch), features reggae and African sounds.

City Statistics

Location: Geneva canton, western Switzerland.
Country dialling code: 41.
Population: 180,000 (city); 420,000 (canton).
Ethnic mix: Approximately one third Genevois, one third Swiss and one third non-Swiss (predominantly European).
Religion: Majority Catholic, with significant Protestant, Muslim and Jewish communities.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; three-pin plugs are most commonly used.
Average January temp: 2.6C (36F).
Average July temp: 23C (74F).
Annual rainfall: 1015mm (39.6 inches).

Special Events

World of Golf, Golf Exhibition, Jan, Palexpo
International Motor Show, Mar, Palexpo
International Exhibition of Inventions, new techniques and products exhibition, early Apr, Palexpo
Geneva International Fair for Books, press and multimedia fair, late Apr, Palexpo
Europ’Art, international art fair, late Apr, Palexpo
Music Festival, mid-Jun, many venues
Bol d’Or Regatta, mid-Jun (weekend), Port Noir, Lake Geneva to Le Bouveret and back
Palo Festival, music festival, last full week of Jul, Nyon
Fourth of July Celebrations, the largest outside the USA, 4 Jul, throughout the city
Montreux Jazz Festival, Jul, Montreux
Cinlac, open-air film festival, Jul-Aug, Port Noir, Lake Geneva
Et Musicale (Musical Summer), live concerts and recitals, Jul-Sep, various venues
National Day, fireworks, bonfire and dancing, 1 Aug, Reformation Wall and Parc des Bastions
Ftes de Genve, street parades, street theatre and fireworks (website: www.fetes-de-geneve.ch), early Aug, throughout the city
Le Btie Festival, music and theatre (website: www.batie.ch), late Aug-mid-Sep, Batie Woods
Cinma Tout Ecran, annual international film festival, Oct, various venues
International Fair of Minerals, Fossils and Gems, early Oct, Palexpo
Geneva Fair, Ideal Home Exhibition, early-mid-Nov, Palexpo
Antiques Fair, late Nov, Palexpo
Fte de l’Escalade, independence celebrations and parade, 11 Dec (and weekend nearest to the 11th), throughout the city
Course de l’Escalade (the Escalade Run), 11 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: SFr1
33cl bottle of beer: SFr3-5.50
Financial Times newspaper: SFr4
36-exposure colour film: SFr4.50-6
City-centre bus ticket: SFr2.30
Adult football ticket: SFr17-50
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From SFr40

1 Swiss Franc (SFr1) = 0.44; US$0.83 ; C$1.03; A$1.07; 0.64
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005