World City Guide

Mini Guide of Frankfurt

City Overview

The fifth biggest city in Germany, Frankfurt on Main (Frankfurt am Main) has gained enormous economic power – both within Germany and abroad – thanks to its position as a key transport hub and its status as a major venue for international trade fairs and other business events. Located in the middle of the highly productive Rhine-Main region in Germany, right at the centre of Europe, the city is the financial heart not only of Germany but also of the European Union, pumping Euros into the world economy.

A settlement since at least 3000BC, Frankfurt’s long and successful history of commerce stemmed initially from its central geographical location on the Main River but also from the Frankfurt Messe (fair). The Messe has been going since the 12th century – it is mentioned in a Jewish manuscript dating from 1160 – and the city received its official Imperial privilege to hold an annual trade fair in 1240. The city got its current name around AD500, when the Franks ruled the area and the settlement along the Main Fort transportation route became known as ‘Franconovurd’.

Frankfurt’s substantial political and cultural prestige is based on a fortunate history of decisive events. In 855, it became the election city for future monarchs. From 1562, the coronations of German emperors were held in the city’s Cathedral of St Bartholomew. The Frankfurt Brse (Stock Exchange) began trading in 1585, moving to Brsenplatz, its current home, in 1879. In 1815, Frankfurt was declared a free city and part of the German Union, with the Budestag, the Union’s highest committee, located here. Frankfurt University, which took the name of the city’s most famous son, Johann Wolfgang Goethe, in 1932, opened in 1914, just before the war that would forever change the face of Germany and indeed all of Europe.

If Frankfurt’s political aspirations were dashed by the choice of Bonn as capital of the Federal Republic in 1949, the city has directed its post-war energies all the more wholeheartedly into its uncontested financial role. The modern skyscrapers of banks and corporations in the central business district are potent symbols of Frankfurt’s economic strength and create a skyline that is more North American than European. ‘Bankfurt’ or ‘Mainhatten’ is home to some of the tallest buildings in Europe, including the 300m (984ft) Commerzbank tower, the tallest office block in Europe. These modern behemoths have replaced parts of the old city that were destroyed by Allied bombers at the end of World War II. However, examples of pre-war Frankfurt can still be experienced in the reconstructed buildings on the Rmerberg, including the cathedral and the Rmer – Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405.

Trade has given the city a cosmopolitan, multicultural flair – 45% of the 2.35 million annual visitors to Frankfurt are foreign and 27.6% of the 650,000-strong population are non-German, representing some 169 countries and a variety of religions. Until the Holocaust in the Nazi era, a large and dynamic Jewish community contributed to the city’s success.

With the second busiest airport in Europe (after Heathrow) and a vital junction on the national road and rail network, Frankfurt is a focal point of international transportation and communication. Not only is the city home to the European Central Bank and many other banks but it also commands 6500 industry-related companies and oversees a burgeoning biotechnology industry, as home to the world’s largest chemistry technology trade fair, ACHEMA. The city also accommodates the moguls of the German publishing industry, as well as a number of companies involved in public relations, marketing, media and telecommunications. As Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860) commented in 1843, ‘here, you see and hear what is going on in the world.’

Most of Frankfurt’s visitors come for one of the numerous trade fairs, exhibitions and congresses. Among the largest on the international circuit are the International Book Fair (Buchmesse Frankfurt) and ACHEMA (chemical engineering, environmental protection and biotechnology). But Frankfurt – to the surprise of many – has got another side to reveal to its focused business visitors. As the birthplace of Germany’s most revered writer, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832), the city is at pains to impress with its cultural pedigree. Excellent museums, high-calibre performance groups and local festivals should entice the discerning guest away from the boardroom and the exhibition hall.

The city’s climate is generally mild and well balanced with warm, occasionally wet, days in summer, when temperatures sometimes reach 30C (90F), and chilly winter days, when temperatures range between - 10C (14F) and 10C (40F).

Getting There By Air

Flughafen Frankfurt/Main (FRA)
Tel: (069) 6900. Fax: (069) 6907 0081.
E-mail: info@frankfurt-airport.de
Website: www.frankfurt-airport.de

Frankfurt Main airport is located 12 kilometres (eight miles) southwest of the city centre. It is the largest airport in continental Europe, handling more than 40,000 flights from 110 airlines every week and serving over 290 destinations in 109 countries. It is a major European transport hub alongside London, Paris and Amsterdam. Terminals one (concourses A, B and C) and two (D and E) are linked by free Skyline shuttle trains. The airport is all set for expansion, which will include landing runways to the north and a takeoff and landing runway to the south. Work is due to start in 2004 and is expected to be operational in 2006.

Major airlines: The national airline is Lufthansa (tel: (069) 6960 (local); (01805) 838 4267 (national); website: www.lufthansa.de). Major airlines include Air France, Alitalia, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, KLM, Qantas, SAS, South African Airways and Turkish Airlines.

Airport facilities: Numerous banks, bureaux de change and ATMs are available in both terminals and in the Frankfurt Airport Centre (FAC1). The airport facilities include travel agencies, shops, duty-free outlets, restaurants, bars, pharmacies and post offices (mostly located in terminal one). 3C Communications provide 24-hour credit card telephones, faxes and Internet access. Both terminals have an Airport Gallery featuring exhibitions on aviation, travel and art. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt offices in each terminal.

Business facilities: The Airport Conference Centre, FAC1 (tel: (069) 6907 0500; fax: (069) 6907 0515; e-mail: acc-reservierung@fraport.de; website: www.acc-frankfurt.de), offers 23 conference rooms (open Monday to Friday 0700-2130, Saturday 0900-1800 and by appointment) with state-of-the-art audiovisual equipment, Internet access, video-conferencing, secretarial services, interpreters and office supplies. There are also conference rooms available to rent in terminal two. Many of the major airlines also have executive lounges.

Transport to the city: The airport has two railway stations and one bus terminal. Deutsche Bahn (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de) city trains (S-Bahn) run to the main railway station (Hauptbahnhof) every 15 minutes (0429-0044) from platforms one to three of Frankfurt Airport station (journey time – 10 minutes). The fare is 3.20. Tickets must be purchased beforehand at the blue RMV ticket machines (select ‘Einzelfahrt Frankfurt’). There are also local trains to Mainz, Wiesbaden and other destinations. Night trains run after 0030. ICE, InterCity and EuroCity trains to national and international destinations depart from platforms four to seven, at the new AIRail Terminal (see Getting There By Rail).

The bus terminal is situated in front of the terminal one arrivals hall. The public bus 61 for Frankfurt Sdbahnhof runs daily 0554-2354, every 20-30 minutes. Hotels often arrange a free shuttle service for their guests, but taxis are readily available outside both terminals – the journey to the city centre costs about 20 (journey time – 20-30 minutes).

Frankfurth Hahn (HHN)
Tel: (06543) 509 200. Fax: (06543) 509 204.
E-mail: info@hahn-airport.de
Website: www.hahn-airport.de

Frankfurt Hahn airport is located 120km (75 miles) west of Frankfurt, in the Hunsrck area. The airport handles both freight and passengers, serving as a hub for budget airline Ryanair with daily flights to destinations throughout Europe. Its expansion over the past few years, despite the general downturn in worldwide air travel, has been significant and rapid.

Major airlines: Budget airline Ryanair (tel: (0190) 669 900, Germany; website: www.ryanair.com) provides direct flights to Bournemouth, Glasgow Prestwick, London Stansted, Milano Bergamo, Bologna, Girona (Barcelona), Montpelier, Oslo Torp, Perpignan, Pescara, Pisa, Rome Ciampino, Shannon and Stockholm. Other airlines include LTU and Pegasus Airlines.

Airport facilities: Facilities include duty free, three bistros, a restaurant, bars, shops, telephones, a travel agent, newsagent, ATMs, a hairdresser, art gallery and petrol station. Car hire is available from Hertz and Sixt.

Business facilities: The Steigenberger Seminare Center (tel: (06543) 509 730 or (01805) 237 137 (bookings); fax: (06543) 509 735 or (069) 6656 4704/5 (bookings)) has 16 function rooms accommodating from two to 100 delegates, all equipped with modern facilities.

Transport to the city: There is a direct bus service operated by Bohr Omnibusse (tel: (06543) 50190; e-mail: info@bohr-omnibusse.de; website: www.bohr-omnibusse.de), which runs from Hahn airport to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (journey time – 1 hour 45 minutes), stopping at Frankfurt Main airport. Buses depart from in front of the terminal building daily 0345-2245. A single ticket costs 11. Taxis are available in front of the terminal building and a trip into Frankfurt costs approximately 80.

Approximate flight times to Frankfurt: From London is 1 hour 30 minutes; from New York is 7 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 50 minutes; from Toronto is 7 hours 20 minutes and from Sydney is 25 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: There is an international passenger service charge of 15.51 and an airport security charge of 5.71. These are included in the price of the ticket.

Getting There By Water

Frankfurt lies on the Main River and the harbour, Hafen Frankfurt (tel: (069) 2123 6037; fax: (069) 2123 1063; website: www.hafen-frankfurt.de), is located at Friedensbrcke. There are no passenger facilities here, as it is mostly used for freight rather than passengers. Passenger services depart from Eiserner Steg, a pier/bridge more centrally located off Untermainkai, Rmer.

Ferry services: Ferry services from Eiserner Steg are available to other German cities, including Mainz, Wiesbaden and Rdesheim. Boats run between Easter (March/April) and October, three to five times per day, costing approximately 22 return to Rdesheim and 5 return to Mainz or Wiesbaden. These trips are offered by Frankfurter Personenschiffahrt (tel: (069) 133 8370; fax: (069) 282 868; e-mail: mail@primus-linie.de; website: www.primus-linie.de).

Transport to the city: The U-Bahn Rmer underground line is a short walk from Eiserner Steg, as are the S-Bahn station Museumsbahn and various buses.

Getting There By Road

Germany has an excellent network of major ‘B’ roads (Bundesstrassen) and ‘A’ motorways (Autobahnen). Generally, there are no speed limits on Autobahnen but individually marked speed limits appear on a large percentage of motorway miles. A maximum of 130kph (81mph) is recommended. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) outside built-up areas, 100kph (62mph) or 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Traffic drives on the right. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Foreign drivers require their national driving licence and proof of insurance – third party insurance is mandatory but a Green Card is strongly recommended. A country identification sticker must be displayed on the vehicle.

Mitfahrzentrale are ‘car sharing’ agencies that link drivers with travellers heading to the same destination. In Frankfurt, these include CityNetz Mitfahrzentrale, Homburger Strasse 36 (tel: (069) 19444; e-mail: citynetz.frankfurt@t-online.de; website: www.citynetz-mitfahrzentrale.de), and the online company Mitfahrgelegenheit (e-mail: drive@mitfahrgelegenheid.de; website: www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de).

General information on travelling by car in Germany can be obtained from the Allgemeine Deutsche Automobil Club – ADAC (tel: (0180) 510 1112; fax: (0180) 530 2928; website: www.adac.de), which also provides breakdown services throughout the country. A local ADAC office is located on Im Trutz 10 (tel: (069) 553 641). Auto Club Europa – ACE also provides information on their Info-Service (tel: (0180) 233 6677; e-mail: ace@ace-online.de; website: www.ace-online.de).

Emergency breakdown services:
ADAC (0180) 222 2222
ACE (0180) 234 3536

Routes to the city: The Frankfurter Kreuz (near the airport, to the south of the city) is the most important junction in the German Autobahn network, with approximately 305,000 vehicles using it on a daily basis. Motorways from Hamburg to Basel and from the Ruhr Valley to Munich cross here. The A5 is the motorway to Frankfurt from the north (Hanover and Berlin) and the south (Karlsruhe and from across the border in Basel). The A3 connects Frankfurt with the east (Nrnberg) and west (Dsseldorf and Cologne). From Nrnberg, the A9 heads south to Munich.

Approximate driving times to Frankfurt: From Munich – 3 hours; Hanover – 3 hours; and Berlin – 4 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Deutsche Touring GmbH, Am Rmerhof 17 (tel: (069) 790 350; fax: (069) 790 3219; e-mail: service@deutsche-touring.com; website: www.deutsche-touring.com), operates international services between Frankfurt and numerous destinations, including London, Paris, Rome and Budapest. They also operate regional services (April to October); destinations include Munich, Wrzburg, Augsburg and Schwangau. All buses depart from the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof Omnibusbahnof, at the main railway station. Tickets can be purchased at the station or on the bus.

Getting There By Rail

Deutsche Bahn – DB (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de) is the national railway provider. The network is modern, extensive and highly efficient. Services include high-speed InterCityExpress (ICE) trains (between major cities in Germany), InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC) trains (serving German and European cities respectively), and InterRegio trains (linking different regions of the country).

The Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), Am Hauptbahnhof Strasse (tel: (069) 2653 4581), is the busiest in Germany and a major junction on the network, with 350,000 passengers using the station every day. Facilities at the station include tourist information, a bank, ATMs, a chemist and many other shops and eating outlets.

Rail services: There are IC and EC services to destinations throughout Germany and abroad, including Basel (journey time – 4 hours) and Berlin (journey time – 7 hours), as well as Bonn, Dresden, Dsseldorf, Hamburg, Hanover, Cologne, Mainz and Munich. ICE Sprinter trains travel to Munich (journey time – 3 hours 24 minutes), Hamburg (journey time – 3 hours 25 minutes) and Berlin (journey time – 3 hours 29 minutes). There is a CityNightLine service (tel: (01805) 213 421; website: www.citynightline.ch) from Vienna West (journey time – 9 hours) and other destinations, including Berlin, Zrich and Amsterdam. IR, local and S-Bahn trains serve regional destinations.

The airport has its own long-distance train station in the AIRail Terminal, with regular IC services to Basel (journey time – 2 hours 49 minutes), Hanover (journey time – 2 hours 33 minutes), Amsterdam (journey time – 3 hours 37 minutes) and Dsseldorf (journey time – 1 hour 22 minutes) and an ICE service to Stuttgart (journey time – 1 hour 11 minutes).

A new direct ICE service from Cologne allows for faster travel through the Rhine region, with the connection between Kln-Hauptbahnhof and Frankfurt-Hauptbahnhof the fastest on the network at just 70 minutes (58 minutes to Frankfurt Flughafen).

Transport to the city: The Hauptbahnhof is served by numerous underground, S-Bahn trains, trams and buses on the city transport network. Taxis are available outside the station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Public transport within Frankfurt is run by the Verkehrsgesellschaft Frankfurt-am-Main – VGF, Kundenzentrum, Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 10 (tel: (069) 19449 or 2132 2235 or 2132 2361; fax: (069) 2132 2727; e-mail: info@vgf-ffm.de; website: www.vgf-ffm.de). VGF is run by the larger organisation, the Rhein-Main-Verkehrsverbund – RMV (tel: (069) 273 0762 or (01805) 768 4636; website: www.rmv.de), which also provides excellent public transport information.

VGF consists of seven underground (U-Bahn), nine tram (Strassenbahn) and over 40 bus lines. These are supplemented by an extensive network of city trains (S-Bahn) operated by Deutsche Bahn (tel: 11861 or (0800) 150 7090 or (01805) 194 195; website: www.bahn.de). The system is in operation daily 0400-0200 and eight night bus routes also operate 0100-0500.

There is a VGF information pavilion at the Hauptbahnhof, which is open Monday-Friday 0800-1200.

The entire VGF network is divided into zones, which determine the price of tickets. Within the city, a single ticket (Einzelfahrt) costs from 1.25 (within zone one) to 11.30 (zones one to seven).

A one-day pass (Tageskarte) allows unlimited travel within zones one to three, during a 24-hour period, and costs 4.60, while a seven-day ticket for the same restrictions costs 17.50. Single, short-journey, group and day tickets can all be bought from automated RMV ticket machines (card-o-maten), which have instructions in English. However, weekly, monthly and yearly passes should be bought from VGF and DB sales points. The 3.50 Congress Ticket must be purchased in advance from Frankfurt Tourist+Congress Board and entitles the holder to one full day’s travel throughout Frankfurt, including the airport. It is only available for those attending a conference or similar event.

Taxis
Taxis are usually beige Mercedes and they can safely be hailed on the street. They can also be ordered from the central issuing agency Taxi Zentrale (tel: (069) 230 001 or 250 001 or (08000) 230 001, toll free within Frankfurt; website: www.taxi-frankfurt.de). The initial starting rate is 3.80 (5 2200-0600), plus 2.50 per kilometre or 2.80 for journeys of between one and three kilometres. A tip of 5-10% or rounding up of the fare is normally expected.

Limousines
ETS GmbH, Wiesenhttenplatz 39 (tel: (069) 271 010; fax: (069) 235 695; e-mail: etsfrankfurt@web.de; website: www.grayline.de), offers a range of services, including chauffeured limousines and sightseeing tours. Top-Alliance, Rudolf-Diesel-Strasse 18, Eschborn (tel: (06173) 934 950; fax: (06173) 934 960; e-mail: info@top-alliance.com; website: www.top-alliance.com), offers a range of limousines. Rates start from 60 per hour for a standard Mercedes E class including 25km (15.5 miles), with a charge of 1.50 for each additional kilometre thereafter. A minimum booking of three hours is required.

Driving in the City
Driving in the centre of Frankfurt can be stressful, as it requires a good knowledge of the one way system. It can be heavily congested, especially during rush hours (0800-0900 and 1700-1800), when it can be even more confusing. Furthermore, German drivers are not known for their patience. The Strassenverkehrsbehrde, Mainzer Landstrasse 323 (tel: (069) 2124 2636; fax: (069) 2124 3757; e-mail: info.strassenverkehrsbehoerde@stadt-frankfurt.de), provides up-to-date information on the traffic situation in the city.

Drivers should note that trams always have priority in the city, although driving on their tracks is permissable and usually unavoidable. Buses also have priority when leaving stops.

Parking on the street is rarely available and being towed away can cost at least 120 – even up to 250. Street parking is by meter and costs 1 for 30 minutes. Car parks are expensive (between 2 and 5 per hour) and get congested very quickly. There are 19 covered car parks in Frankfurt. The following are open 24 hours: Hauptwache, Kornmarkt 10; Schiller-Passage, Taubenstrasse 11; Junghofstrasse, Junghofstrasse 16; Brse, Meisengasse; Alte Oper, Opernplatz; Alt-Sachsenhausen, Walter-Kolb-Strasse 16; Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse, Konrad Adenauer-Strasse 15; Nordwestzentrum, Erich-Ollenhauer-Ring; Mousonturm, Waldschmidtstrasse 6; and Westend, Savignystrasse 58.

Car Hire
Regulations vary depending on the company but drivers generally must be at least 19 years old and have held a full driving licence for at least one year (an International Driving Permit is needed if the national licence is not in roman script). The average price for a basic car is about 60 per day, plus 25 per day for insurance. Providers include Avis, Schmidtstrasse 39 (tel: (069) 730 111; website: www.avis.de), Budget, Schulstrasse 7 (tel: (069) 614 004; fax: (069) 624 070; website: www.budget.de), Hertz, Hanauer Landstrasse 117 (tel: (069) 449 090; fax: (069) 440 101; website: www.hertz.de) and Sixt, Allerheiligenstrasse 52 (tel: (069) 138 7080; website: www.e-sixt.de).

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles can be hired from Theo Intra, Westerbachstrasse 273 (tel: (069) 342 780; fax: (069) 347 494), and Rebicycle, Tngesgasse 23-25 (tel: (069) 4080 7436). A range of bicycles, including trekking bikes and mountain bikes, are available from 10 per day. A deposit of 50-100 is required. See also Bicycle Tours in Tours of the City.

Business

Business Profile
Frankfurt ranks with New York, London and Tokyo as one of the world’s most important business cities. Some 42,000 businesses, generating more than 46 billion GDP, are registered in Frankfurt. In terms of revenue, some of the largest are Aventis, Deutsche Bahn AG and Degussa AG.

The Rhine-Main region provides some 2.2 million jobs and from this Frankfurt accounts for 569,400 of these, 83% of which are in the service sector. With the current economic climate, however, unemployment throughout the country has been rising, although Frankfurt’s unemployment rate (6.2%) remains lower than Germany’s national average (9.7%). Frankfurt airport (Fraport AG) is the largest workplace in Germany, providing 62,000 jobs. However, the company felt the knock-on effects of the events of 11th September, reporting a 4.7% drop in passenger numbers between June 2001 and June 2002. Nevertheless, Fraport AG is confident of an impending upswing. Considering that other German airports were reporting losses of up to 8.4%, Frankfurt airport has held up considerably well. Airfreight rose by 5.7%, helping to balance the passenger shortfall. Meanwhile, Frankfurt Hahn reported considerable profits and activity, prompting further investment into developing this burgeoning airport.

The city is home to a number of key national and international financial organisations, with 329 banks and 166 insurance companies providing employment for about 79,000 people in Frankfurt and generating business of over two billion Euros. These include the European Central Bank and the Deutsche Bundesbank (German Central Bank). Half of Germany’s largest banks (including Deutsche Bank, Dresdner Bank and Commerzbank) also have their headquarters here. The Frankfurter Brse (Stock Exchange) is the most important in the Federal Republic with a turnover of 5.1 trillion Euros. It is the fourth largest in the world, behind New York, Tokyo and London.

Manufacturing, including pharmaceuticals, metals, machinery, oil products, boats and beer, also plays a large role in the city’s economy, contributing 17% GDP per annum. The high technology sector is also increasingly important. Research flourishes in the city’s scientific institutions, including the Paul-Ehrlich Institute, the Max Planck Institutes for Biophysics and Brain Research, the Sigmund Freud Institute and the Senckenbergishe Nature Research Society.

Home to some 500 publishing and printing companies and host of the incredibly popular annual Book Fair, Frankfurt is the mainstay of the German book industry. It is also a centre for media and communications, with 410 companies involved in advertising and public relations, 50 in market research and many others in press, film and telecommunications.

Most businesses are located in the skyscrapers of the bank quarter, situated in the western part of the city centre. The Commerzbank tower is Europe’s highest office block, although city planners are pushing the limits with plans in the pipelines for a still higher Millennium Tower, which would rise 365m (1197ft) over a new quarter, the Europaviertel, near the city’s trade fair grounds. On and around Junghofstrasse is where financial business takes place. Messe Frankfurt GmbH is one of the largest trade fair organisations, positioned west of the bank quarter with around 50 fairs per year, welcoming up to 44,000 exhibitors and around two million visitors annually – the Book Fair alone attracted over 6000 exhibitors and more than 250,000 visitors in 2002. The trade fair site covers around 410,000 sq metres (134,513 sq ft) of exhibition space (indoor and outdoor). The new multi-functional Forum event centre opened in 2002, thanks to an investment of 33 million.

In addition, around 60,000 conferences and congresses are held annually at 180 venues in the city. The largest of these (the Festhalle Messe Frankfurt) has seating for over 10,000 delegates. The Tourismus+Congress GmbH Congress Bureau (tel: (069) 2123 0396) can offer advice and assistance with the organisation of congresses and conferences in Frankfurt.

Business Etiquette
Working hours are generally 0800-1700. Punctuality for both business and social events is extremely important. Frankfurters are impressed with efficiency and strong business sense and this is displayed in their business style – firm handshakes, formal use of business cards and an appreciation of straight talking. Business contacts must be addressed by their surname and by the formal ‘Sie’ for ‘you’. Academic and other titles should be used wherever applicable. Both men and women are expected to wear suits – men should also wear a tie. Visitors to Germany should note that in some cases, instead of applauding, German businessmen and women might rap their knuckles on the table.

Business socialising mainly takes place over lunches, especially on Friday, as many offices close at around 1300. After-work drinks are a more casual affair between colleagues and seldom involve clients.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Skyscrapers housing major financial institutions dominate the scene in the central business district. The Westend remains predominantly a residential and business district. Nearby, the Marktplatz (former Market Square), Rmer (City Hall), the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral), Paulskirche (Church of St Paul) and the Nikolaikirche (Nicholas Church) are among the attractions of the Altstadt (Old Town). The Bahnhofsviertel (around the main railway station) and Kaiserstrasse is the city’s red light district, although the ubiquitous seediness has recently developed into a popular and lively entertainment scene. Thirteen museums make up the longest mile of museums in Europe – the Museumsufer (Museum Embankment) on the southern bank of the Main, reached on foot via Eiserner Steg. Most of Frankfurt’s museums are closed on Monday and open until 2000 on Wednesday.

Visitors increasingly flock further south of the Main to Sachsenhausen, the oldest district in Frankfurt, to enjoy ppelwoi (apple wine) at traditional half-timbered taverns. The best views of the city can be gained from the restaurant on the 52nd floor of the recently finished Main Tower. Students and artists contribute to the bohemian atmosphere of the Nordend around Eschenheimer Tor.

Tourist Information
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main
Hauptbahnhof
Tel: (069) 2123 8800. Fax: (069) 2123 7880.
E-mail: info@tcf.frankfurt.de
Website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-2100, Sat and Sun 0900-1800.

There are other tourist information centres at Rmerberg 27 and on the main shopping street, Zeil 94A.

Passes
The Frankfurt Card, available as a one-day (7.50) or a two-day (11) ticket, offers free travel on all RMV transport within the city and to the airport, as well as a 25% reduction on guided city tours, 50% reduction on admission to major attractions and 17 museums, and a 20% reduction on the Kln-Dsseldorfer Deutsche Rheinschiffahrt Rhine and Mosel river tours (departing Frankfurt). Participating attractions include Goethe House and Museum, Historical Museum, Jewish Museum, Museum of Modern Art, Stdel Art Institute and Municipal Gallery, the Palmengarten and Frankfurt Zoo. The card is available from tourist information offices (tel: (069) 2123 8703), in travel agencies, the DB Reisezentrum at the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), and at the Frankfurt airport Fraport travel agency.

For free entrance to 24 museums in Frankfurt, the Museumsufer Ticket costs 8 and is valid for two days. Participating museums include the Jewish Museum, Goethe Museum and Historical Museum. The card is available from tourist information offices (tel: (069) 2123 0776; e-mail: info@tcf.frankfurt.de) and Frankfurt Ticket (tel: (069) 134 0400).

Key Attractions

Rmerberg
In 1240, this low hill – the main square and heart of the Old Town – was the site of the city’s first official trade fair. The Rmerberg is bordered by the popular half-timbered houses (Fachwerkhuser), reconstructed after total destruction in 1945, and the former court chapel – the Nikolaikirche (Church of St Nicholas). The main attraction, however, is the red sandstone Rathaus Rmer – Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405 – with its Gothic stepped gables made of Frankfurt’s trademark red sandstone. The coronation of German emperors was celebrated by banquets in the Kaisersaal (Emperor’s Hall) on the upper floors. Portraits of 52 emperors, from Charlemagne to Franz II, now hang on the walls. It is a working town hall, however, and there are currently no tours. The Christmas market that takes place on Rmerberg every December is one of the best in Germany, famous for having the tallest Christmas tree.

Rmerberg, Rmer
Transport: U-Bahn Rmer.

Sankt Bartholomusdom (Cathedral of St Bartholomew)
Between 1562 and 1792, German emperors were crowned in the Cathedral of St Bartholomew, hence its other name – the Kaiserdom (Emperor Cathedral). In the 1950s, this was Frankfurt’s tallest building, at 96m (315ft), which just goes to show how much the city has developed over the second half of the twentieth century. The cathedral, which is currently under construction wraps for renovation and cleaning, has a red sandstone faade and interior and is one of Frankfurt’s most recognisable landmarks. The present structure was rebuilt after World War II but contains a number of original carvings. There are also great views of the city from the tower. A museum, the Dommuseum, is adjoined to the cathedral and is packed full of ancient archaeological findings.

Domplatz 1
Tel: (069) 1337 6186. Fax: (069) 2970 3249.
E-mail: dommuseum-ffm@t-online.de
Transport: U-Bahn Rmer; tram 11 to Domstrasse.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1300 and 1430-1800 (cathedral and tower); Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1700 (museum).
Admission: Free (cathedral); 2 (museum).

Stdelsche Kunstinstitute und Stdtische Galerie (Stdel Art Institute and Municipal Gallery)
An exemplary and comprehensive collection of European painting from the 14th to the 20th centuries is housed in this museum – commonly known as just Stdel – on Frankfurt’s legendary Museumsufer (Museum Embankment). German masters, such as Cranach, Holbein and Beckmann, are displayed alongside the likes of Botticelli, Rembrandt and Rubens. Around 500 sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries are also on show, including works from artists such as Rodin, Kirchner and Picasso. There is also a caf, Holbein’s, and an excellent bookshop.

Schaumainkai 63, Museumsufer
Tel: (069) 605 0980. Fax: (069) 610 163.
E-mail: staedel@t-online.de
Website: www.staedelmuseum.de
Transport: U-Bahn Schweizer Platz; bus 46 to Stdel; tram 15 or 16 to Otto-Hahn-Platz.
Opening hours: Tues, Fri-Sun 1000-1700, Wed and Thurs 1000-2000.
Admission: 6 (concessions available); free Tues.

Museum fr Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art)
Designed by Viennese architect Hans Hollein, the outside of the Museum of Modern Art alone would count as one of the city’s major attractions. It is therefore a bonus that this museum is filled with a superb collection of post-war art, predominantly by German and American artists, including Roy Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Andy Warhol and Joseph Beuys. There is also a caf-restaurant, Triangolo.

Domstrasse 10
Tel: (069) 2123 0447. Fax: (069) 2123 7882.
E-mail: mmk@stadt-frankfurt.de
Website: www.mmk-frankfurt.de
Transport: U-Bahn Rmer; S-Bahn Konstablerwache; tram 11 or 12 to Domstrasse.
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2000.
Admission: 5 (concessions available); free Wed.

Frankfurt Zoo
Frankfurt’s zoo is one of the most attractive in Europe and is very popular with both locals and visitors. Over 4500 animals from over 500 species can be observed on 14 hectares (35 acres) of land. The obvious highlight is the Grzimek Haus, where artificial darkness is created in order to observe nocturnal animals going about their business.

Alfred-Brehm-Platz 16
Tel: (069) 2123 3735. Fax: (069) 2123 7855.
Website: www.zoo-frankfurt.de
Transport: U-Bahn Zoo or tram 14.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900 (summer); daily 0900-1700 (winter). Admission: 7; 5 last Sunday of every month.

Palmengarten (Palm Garden)
The Palm Garden is a wonderland of tropical plants and exotic birds. Hidden away from the bustle of the centre, the attractions of this botanical garden include glasshouses, some 300 different palms and a boating lake. There are occasional concerts staged here in summer.

Entrances at Palmengartenstrasse 1 and Siesmayerstrasse 63
Tel: (069) 2123 3939. Fax: (069) 2123 7856.
E-mail: info.palmengarten@stadt-frankfurt.de
Website: www.stadt-frankfurt.de/palmengarten
Transport: U-Bahn Bockenheimer Warte or bus 32 or 50 (Palmengartenstrasse entrance); U-Bahn Westend or bus 36 or 75 (Siesmayerstrasse entrance).
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600 (Nov-Jan); daily 0900-1800 (Feb-Oct).
Admission: 3.50 (concessions available).

Goethe-Museum and Goethe-Haus
Completely destroyed by Allied bombers in 1944, the house where Goethe (1749-1832) was born and spent most of his youth was rebuilt after the war, in 1951, and restored to its former 18th-century glory. Visitors can see the family music room, library, living room and Goethe’s own puppet show and study. Next door, the Goethe-Museum displays German paintings and sculpture from the late Baroque period up to early Romanticism. There are daily guided tours of the house at 1030 and 1400. Tours of the museum can also be arranged on request.

Grosser Hirschgraben 23-25
Tel: (069) 138 800. Fax: (069) 1388 0222.
E-mail: info@goethehaus-frankfurt.de
Website: www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Hauptwache.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat and Sun 1000-1600 (Apr-Sep); Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat and Sun 1000-1600 (Oct-Mar).
Admission: 5 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Jdisches-Museum (Jewish Museum)
Until the Holocaust, Frankfurt was home to Germany’s second largest Jewish population, many of whom played a key role in the city’s financial and cultural success. The story of this important community from the 12th to the 20th century, is told in the Jewish Museum, housed in the Rothschild Palais (a mansion that was the former home of the Rothschilds). The remains of Mikvah (women’s ceremonial baths) in the former Jewish ghetto and special exhibitions are displayed in the supplementary Judengasse Museum (Jewish Alley Museum).

Untermainkai 14-15
Tel: (069) 2123 5000. Fax: (069) 2123 0705.
E-mail: info@juedischenmuseum.de
Website: www.juedischesmuseum.de
Transport: U-Bahn Willy-Brandt-Platz; tram 11 or 12 to Willy-Brandt-Platz.
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1000-2000.
Admission: 2.60; 3 (combined ticket with Judengasse Museum); concessions available; free Sat.

Judengasse Museum
Brneplatz, Kurt-Schzumacher-Strasse 10
Tel: (069) 297 7419. Fax: (069) 2123 0705.
E-mail: info@juedischenmuseum.de
Website: www.juedischesmuseum.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Konstablerwache; bus 30 or 36 to Brneplatz; tram 11 or 12 to Brneplatz.
Admission: 1.50; 3 (combined ticket with Jewish Museum); concessions available; free Sat.

Historisches Museum (Historical Museum)
The Historical Museum is housed in a complex of imperial buildings overlooking the Main, which also includes the 12th-century palace chapel. The museum traces the story of Frankfurt – including its destruction in World War II – and visitors can learn about the traditions of ppelwoi in the museum caf. There are guided tours on Wednesday at 1800 and Sunday and 1400.

Saalgasse 19
Tel: (069) 2123 5599. Fax: (069) 2123 0702.
E-mail: info.historisches-museum@stadt-frankfurt.de
Website: www.historisches-museum.frankfurt.de
Transport: U-Bahn Rmer; tram 11 or 12 to Rmer.
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs and Fri 1000-1700, Wed 1600-2000, Sat and Sun 1300-1700.
Admission: 4.

Geldmuseum der Deutschen Budesbank (Money Museum of the German Federal Bank)
The Money Museum is a sign of the changing times. In this Deutsche Bundesbank building, an extensive historical collection of coins and paper money has finally been made accessible to the public. The museum also explains the complex nature of monetary policy – especially the new European system – using films, challenging computer games and interactive teaching programmes.

Wilhelm Epsteinstrasse 14
Tel: (069) 9566 3073. Fax: (069) 9566 4059.
E-mail: geldmuseum@bundesbank.de
Website: www.geldmuseum.de
Transport: U-Bahn Dornbusch; S-Bahn Hauptwache; bus 34 to Deutsche Bundesbank.
Opening hours: Mon, Tues and Thurs-Sun 1000-1700, Wed 1300-2100.
Admission: Free.

Haus Giersch Museum Regionaler Kunst (Haus Giersch Museum of Regional Art)
This newcomer on the Frankfurt museum scene is devoted to work from artists from the Rhine-Main region and is a wonderful way for culture-keen visitors to get a taste of the regional artistic fare. Taking its place alongside Frankfurt’s finest institutions on Museumsufer, the bright, airy and thoroughly contemporary gallery hosts two changing exhibitions on art and art-historical themes. The one constant exhibit is the building itself, the neoclassical Villa Holzmann.

Schaumainkai 83, Museumsufer
Tel: (069) 6330 4128. Fax: (069) 6330 4144.
E-mail: haus-giersch@schaumainkai.de
Website: www.haus-giersch.de
Transport: U-Bahn Schweizer Platz; tram 15 or 16 to Stresemannallee, Gartenstrasse or Otto-Hahn-Platz; bus 46 to Stresemannallee, Gartenstrasse or Stdel.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1900, Sat and Sun 1100-1700.
Admission: 4 (concessions available).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main (tel: (069) 2123 8953; fax: (069) 2123 8243; e-mail: citytours@tcf.frankfurt.de; website: www.frankfurt-tourismus.de) organises walking tours of the city. The ‘Historical Tour of Frankfurt’ costs 95 for the services of an English-speaking guide for a two-hour guided tour of Frankfurt’s Rmerberg (or 105 for three hours). The meeting point is arranged with the guide beforehand and there is a maximum of 30 people per guide.

Bus Tours
Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main (see above) also organises daily bus tours in winter (November-March), departing at 1400, and twice-daily bus tours in summer (April-October), departing at 1000 and 1400. Both set off from the tourist information office on Rmerberg 27, and pick up passengers at the tourist information office at the Hauptbahnhof, 15 minutes later. Tours last approximately three hours and include a walk through the Old Town and visits to the Historical Museum and Goethe House. In summer, the tour also takes in the observation platform of the Main Tower. Bus tours cost 25 (concessions are available) and are limited to a minimum of three people.

Tram Tours
A tram known as the Ebbelwei Express (tel: (069) 2132 2425; fax: (069) 2132 2727; e-mail: info@vgf-ffm.de; website: www.vgf-ffm.de) departs Saturday and Sunday every 40 minutes (1332-1732) from Heiderstrasse. A round trip takes one hour to travel through the city centre to Sachsenhausen. The price of 5 includes a glass of ppelwoi, some Brezeln (pretzels) and music.

Boat Tours
A variety of round trips and cruises – including the impressive skyline tour and the romantic riverside dinner – depart mainly from Eiserner Steg, off Untermainkai. Boats run three to seven times a day, with prices starting from 5.50 for a 50-minute return trip to Gerbermhle or Griesheim. Trips are offered by Frankfurter Personenschiffahrt, Mainkai 36, Am Eiserner Steg (tel: (069) 133 8370; fax: (069) 282 886; e-mail: mail@primu-linie.de; website: www.primus-linie.de).

Bicycle Tours
Bicycle tours are organised by the German Bicycle Club, Fichardstrasse 46 (tel: (069) 9441 0196; fax: (069) 9441 0193; e-mail: kontakt@adfc-frankfurt.de; website: www.adfc-frankfurt.de).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Taunus: This line of hills to the north and west of Frankfurt provide a wooded setting for a number of famous spa towns including Wiesbaden, the capital of Hesse, and Bad Homburg, where hot saline springs are set in a beautiful park. From the attractive town of Knigstein, the road continues to the Grosser Feldberg – the highest point in the Taunus at 881m (2890ft). Bad Homburg can be reached by S-Bahn 5, however, the rest of the area is only accessible by car. While in the region, visitors are recommended to stop at the Open-Air Museum Hessenpark, Laubweg, Neu-Anspach (tel: (06081) 5880; fax: (06081) 588 160; e-mail: info@hessenpark.de; website: www.hessenpark.de), which shows an original village of traditional half-timbered houses, inside and out. Some of these buildings, including the mill and the granary, can even be hired for conferences. The museum is open daily 0900-1800 from March to October and entrance costs 4. Trains run direct to Hessenpark from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (journey time – approximately 1 hour).

For a Whole Day

Heidelberg: Approximately one hour by train, 75km (46 miles) south of Frankfurt, lies one of the most visited towns in Germany. Heidelberg fulfils all expectations with its romantic setting on the banks of the Neckar, its Gothic and Renaissance castle and the oldest university in Germany. The picture-perfect town is boosted by numerous lively festivals and popular student taverns. Tourist Information Heidelberg (tel: (062) 211 9433; fax: (062) 2113 88111; e-mail: info@cyb-heidelberg.de; website: www.heidelberg.de or www.cvb-heidelberg.de), located in the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station), can provide further information.

Rhein and Main tours: During spring and summer, Frankfurter Personenschiffahrt, Mainkai 36, Am Eisernen Steg (tel: (069) 133 8370; fax: (069) 282 886; e-mail: mail@primu-linie.de; website: www.primus-linie.de) offers river trips to destinations on the Main and Rhein (Rhine) rivers, west of Frankfurt. Points of call include the legendary Lorelei, the wine village of Rdesheim, St Goarshausen and Heidelberg. Although times and schedules vary, boats depart from the Eisener Steg (bridge). Return transport, if necessary, is often by train. A round trip to St Goarshausen costs about 25 and takes approximately seven hours.

Sport

The city’s top football club is Eintracht Frankfurt (tel: (069) 955 030; e-mail: info@eintracht-frankfurt.de; website: www.eintracht-frankfurt.de), which does battle with Kln for the top position of the Budesliga (national league) second division. Tickets for Eintracht Frankfurt games are available from the team shop, Am Erlenbruch 25 (tel: (01805) 743 1899). The team plays at the Frankfurter Waldstadion, Mrfelder Landstrasse 362, in the city park (tel: (069) 678 040; fax; (069) 678 860; e-mail: info@stadion-gmbh.de; website: www.stadion-gmbh.de), which is also home to the Frankfurt Galaxy (website: www.frankfurt-galaxy.de) American football team (April to June). Although still in use, the stadium is currently being upgraded and improved for when the FIFA football World Cup comes to town in 2006.

The Ballsporthalle, Silostrasse 46 (tel: (069) 319 076), is the home of Frankfurt’s relatively new basketball team, Opel Skyliners (tel: (069) 3083 8864; fax: (069) 3083 6703; e-mail: info@skyliners.de; website: www.opel-skyliners.de), who were founded in 1999 and now play in the first division of the national league. In 2000, the team defeated Alba Berlin for the World Cup.

Rennbahn Niederrad, Schwarzwaldstrasse 125 (tel: (069) 678 0900), hosts horseracing from March to November.

Tickets to sporting events are available through Frankfurt Ticket (tel: (069) 134 0400; website: www.frankfurt-ticket.de), from the individual venues or their websites.

Sport und Bderamt, Neue Rothofstrasse 12 (tel: (069) 2123 3565; fax: (069) 2123 0720; e-mail: ffm.sport-info@stadt-frankfurt.de; website: www.sportundbaederamt.frankfurt.de), can give information on Frankfurt’s sport facilities, such as swimming pools, halls and ice skating.

Fitness centres: There are many fitness centres in and around the city, however, most only allow members. City Fitness, Trakehner Strasse 5, Hausen (tel: (069) 703 788; e-mail: info@cityfitness.de; website: www.cityfitness.de), is unusual in that it is both good and cheap, with circuit and weight training, as well as aerobic and other classes for 25 for monthly membership. Many hotels have fitness studios of their own or can offer the use of a nearby centre.

Golf: Schlosshotel Kronberg, Hainstrasse 25, Taunus (tel: (061) 737 0101; fax: (061) 7370 1267; e-mail: info@schlosshotel-kronberg.de; website: www.schlosshotel-kronberg.de), 15km (nine miles) from Frankfurt, is a historic castle with an 18-hole golf course. To play, one must be a member of an international golf club. The same rule applies at Frankfurter Golf Club, Golfstrasse 41 (tel: (069) 666 2318; fax: (069) 666 7018). Green fees for the 18-hole course are 50 weekdays or 60 weekends, with a valid golf pass stating a handicap not higher than 28.

Ice skating: Eissporthalle Frankfurt, Am Bornheimer Hang 4 (tel: (069) 2123 9308 or 0825), has two indoor ice rinks and a 400m (1312ft) exterior track. Home to the Frankfurt Lions hockey team (tel: (069) 405 8840; e-mail: office@frankfurt-lions.de; website: www.frankfurt-lions.de), it hosts ice hockey matches and other events during the winter and is open to the public daily 0900-2230 during the November-March high season, with reduced opening hours at other times of the year. Entrance is 5 (high season) and 4 (other times). Basketball, volleyball, soccer, tennis, boxing, dancing and table tennis tournaments are also held here.

Swimming: Swimming pools are plentiful and of a high standard. One of the biggest is Rebstockbad, August-Euler-Strasse 7 (tel: (069) 708 078; fax: (069) 7079 0991; website: www.rebstockbad-frankfurt.de ), which offers indoor and outdoor pools with wave machines and slides, as well as saunas, sunbeds and other facilities at an extra cost. A 90-minute weekday ticket costs 3.50. The baths are closed, however, from 22 April until 3 September in 2003 for major renovations and modernisation. Titus Thermen, Walter-Mller-Platz 2 (tel: (069) 958 050 or 2124 8100; fax: (069) 2124 8111; website: www.titusthermen-frankfurt.de), is an alternative, although it, too, is closed for renovation throughout March.

Tennis: There are indoor and outdoor courts at Freibad Stadion, Niederrad, Mrfelder Landstrasse 362 (tel: (069) 6780 4170), and Europa Tennis and Squash Park, Ginnheimer Landstrasse 49 (tel: (069) 678 040).

Shopping

The pedestrian street, Zeil – from Hauptwache to Konstablerwache – is the city’s major shopping street and is lined with well-known department stores, including the super-modern Zielgalerie, Ziel 112-114 (website: www.zeilgalerie.com), with approximately 50 shops, an IMAX cinema (see Culture) and tremendous views from the roof terrace. Many shops along Ziel sell the typical local gift, the Ebbelwei wine carafe, called Bembel, which comes with matching glasses. International names can be found in the streets leading off the main thoroughfare. Goethestrasse is known for its exclusive designer clothing and jewellery boutiques. Oeder Weg and Berger Strasse offer just the opposite – small but interesting bargain and curiosity shops in which to rummage.

The largest shopping centres are the Nordwest Zentrum, Walter-Mller-Platz 2, and Schillerpassage, Rahmhofstrasse 2. Others are the Hessen Centre, Borsigallee 26, the Neu-Isenburg-Zentrum, Hermesstrasse 4, and the Main-Taunus-Zentrum in Sulzbach. Antiques can be found in the streets around the cathedral. Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse has the best delicatessens, fish shops, markets and wine merchants in town and the Kleinmarkthalle on Hasengasse is full of international delicacies. For something unusual, Comica, Stiftstrasse, offers comics and graphic novels, as well as a number of figurines and memorabilia from all the favourite cartoons, such as Asterix and Wallace and Gromit.

Out of the city centre, Leipziger Strasse in Bornheim, has a range of idiosyncratic shops and Schweizer Strasse in Sachsenhausen is the home of some exclusive boutiques. A flea market is held every Saturday 0900-1400 on the Museumsufer.

Large city-centre stores and supermarkets are open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday 0900-1600. Smaller shops close at 1830 on weekdays and on Saturday at 1400. All shops are closed on Sunday. VAT is currently at 16%. Travellers who live outside the European Union can obtain a tax refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) on goods bought in Germany. This is done by submitting the purchased goods and the original receipt to the customs office at the airport, before check-in. The export certificate should then be taken to any one of five counters after the security check, where a cash refund is obtained.

Culture

Although it is often considered a dreary place of all work and no play, Frankfurt in fact offers visitors a lively and impressive cultural scene that provides a welcome diversion from its hard-nosed business activities. The city’s most famous son undoubtedly is Johann Wolfgang Goethe (1749-1832) and the city’s pride in this man is reflected in the fact that the university takes his name. Another famous Frankfurter is the artist Adam Elsheimer (1578-1610) who played a key role in the development of 17th-century landscape painting – the Stdel, Schaumainkai 63, houses his Altarpiece of the Cross (1604-06). Also born in the city were Paul Ehrlich and Arthur Schopenhauer.

The Kunsthalle-Schirn (often shortened to Kulturschirn), Rmerberg 6 (tel: (069) 299 8820), displays innovative art exhibitions. The city also has some high-calibre classical performance groups, particularly Ballett Frankfurt, directed by William Forsythe. Frankfurt is an important port of call on the European jazz circuit, with a number of excellent venues attracting international stars (see Nightlife).

Most performance venues are closed during July and August. There are a number of ticket outlets in the city, the main one being Frankfurt Ticket, Hauptwache (tel: (069) 134 0400; fax: (069) 134 0444; website: www.frankfurt-ticket.de).

Papers that list cultural events are Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (especially the extensive Sunday edition), Frankfurter Neue Presse, Frankfurter Rundschau, Journal Frankfurt. An excellent source of information and listings is available from the online service (website: www.rhein-main.net) for Frankfurter Neue Presse and Journal Frankfurt. The free magazines, Strandgut (website: www.strandgut.de), Fritz (website: www.fritz-frankfurt.de) and Kultur News (website: www.kulturnews.de or www.citymag.info/frankfurt) all have information on cultural events and performances in Frankfurt (in German) and are available at the tourist information centre.

Music: Rebuilt in its original style in 1981, the elegant Alte Oper (Old Opera), Opernplatz (tel: (069) 13400; website: www.alteoper.de), is the city’s most important and best-loved concert hall. The Frankfurt Museum Orchestra and touring companies perform here. Opera performances by Oper Frankfurt (website: www.oper-frankfurt.de), however, are to be found at the Stdtische Bhnen (municipal stages), Untermainanlage 11 (tel: (069) 2123 7999).

Theatre: Goethe wrote the original versions of Faust (Urfaust and Gtz von Berlichingen) while he lived in Frankfurt. Top-class German theatre, including work by Goethe, is performed by Schauspielfrankfurt at one of the Stdtische Bhnen, Untermainanlage 11 (tel: (069) 2123 7999; website: www.schauspeilfrankfurt.de). Excellent English productions, including musicals, can be enjoyed in the rather unprepossessing surroundings of The English Theatre, Kaiserstrasse 52 (tel: (069) 2423 1620; fax: (069) 2423 1614; e-mail: box-office@english-theatre.org; website: www.english-theatre.org), while Theater am Turm (or Das TAT), Bockenheimer Warte (tel: (069) 2123 7562; website: www.dastat.de), is the setting for cutting-edge theatre. Volkstheater Frankfurt (‘the people’s theatre’), Grosser Hirschgraben 21 (tel: (069) 288 598 or 283 676; fax: (069) 20099; e-mail: info@volkstheater-frankfurt.de; website: www.volkstheater-frankfurt.de), shows classic plays by Goethe and Shakespeare, as well as music and dance theatre on a more traditional level. In summer, performances take place in the backyard with Ebbelwei and Brezeln.

Dance: Ballett Frankfurt (website: www.frankfurt-ballett.de) performs at the Stdtische Bhnen, Untermainanlage 11 (tel: (069) 2123 7999), and Das TAT (see Theatre above).

Film: The Deutsches Filmmuseum, Schaumainkai 41 (tel: (069) 2123 8830; e-mail: info@deutsches-filmmuseum.de; website: www.deutsches-filmmuseum.de), is the best of its kind in Germany. Permanent exhibitions (2.50) are supplemented by screenings of classic and independent films in the Kommunales Kino (5.50), every day except Monday. The Chaplin Archiv, Klarastrasse 5 (tel: (069) 9529 4477; fax: (069) 9529 4479; e-mail: chaplin-archiv@t-online.de), is a free permanent exhibition on two floors, which gives a true impression of the late actor Charlie Chaplin, his work and life. On show are 450 rare film documents and 6000 remarkable pieces like old books, magazines, pictures, advertising materials and records related to the artist.

Mal sehn, Adlerflychtstrasse 6 (tel: (069) 597 0845; website: www.malsehnkino.de), Orfeo Erben, Hamburger Allee 45 (tel: (069) 7076 9100; website: www.kinoservice.de/kino_f2.htm). These, along with Valentin, Windthorstrasse 84 (tel: (069) 308 6927; website: www.filmtheater-valentin.de), and Turmpalast, Bleichstrasse 57 (tel: (069) 281 787; website: www.ufakino.de), offer movies in English.

Most mainstream cinemas are located in the centre around Zeil, such as Roya Filmtheaterl, Schfergasse 10 (tel: (069) 289 520), Zeil Filmtheater, Zeil 85-93 (tel: (069) 285 105; website: www.ufakino.de), and the popular 3D-theatre IMAX, Zeilgalerie (tel: (069) 1338 4821; fax: (069) 1338 4811; website: www.imax-filmtheater.de).

Cultural events: Frankfurters let their hair down at over 100 folk festivals and street celebrations each year. The Frhjahrs- and Herbst-Dippemess (Spring and Autumn ‘Dippe’ Fairs), in April and September respectively, combine fairground rides and a traditional market selling stoneware. In June, the Wldchestag is an excuse for celebration in the city park and the Rmerberg is transformed into one big garden party during the Apfelweinfest. The year is brought to a magical close with the magical Weihnachtsmrkte (Christmas markets) around the city, particularly on Rmerberg.

Literary Notes
Written while the author lived in Frankfurt, Die Leiden des jungen Werther – The Sufferings of Young Werther (1771) is one of Goethe’s best-known works. The epistolary novel traces the tragic love of Werther for the beautiful but unobtainable Lotte. Goethe’s literary output was prodigious and eclectic, including collections of poetry, novels, plays and scientific works. Heinrich Hoffmann (1809-94) was born in Frankfurt and became the leading doctor at the municipal madhouse. His writing includes lyrical poems, ballads, comic and satirical works and, most famously, Struwwelpeter (1848), a series of gruesome pictorial and poetic cautionary tales for children. There is a dedicated Struwwelpeter-Museum, Schirn am Rmerberg (tel: (069) 281 333). A recent German novel that offers a taste of the city is Regula Venske’s Double fr eine Leiche – Double for a Corpse (1998), which features the comings and goings at the International Book Fair.

Nightlife

Traditional Kneipen (bars) cluster around the Alt Sachsenhausen district (between Brckenstrasse and Dreiechstrasse), but are increasingly being crowded out by more modern establishments with an international ambience. Many of Frankfurt’s top hotels have excellent bars that attract outsiders as well as guests and are particularly popular with visiting businesspeople. Belying its rather staid image, Frankfurt also has a lively club scene – techno is particularly popular. Discos and gay haunts are to be found around Zeil and Bleichstrasse, while the seedier side of nightlife can be found down the Kaiserstrasse artery and the surrounds.

Many bars in Frankfurt also offer live music, particularly jazz. The best venues are around Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse, otherwise known as Jazzgasse (Jazz Alley).

Bars stay open until 0100 during the week and remain open significantly later at the weekend. The minimum drinking age is 18 years and in trendy bars or clubs, a beer can cost around 2.50 or 3.50-4 (bottled), while a glass of wine is usually around 3.50 and sprits 3. Dress code is smart to casual – a tie is not necessary but many places will not allow trainers or jeans. Clubs and discos often charge admission of around 8.

The Urban Entertainment Centre, which is currently being built by the successful architect team ABB, is situated between the fair district and the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station). It will offer a multiplex cinema with 5500 seats, restaurants, shops, wellness facilities and a lot of entertainment and fun.

Prinz (website: www.prinz.de) is the magazine to pick up for the latest bars, club and nightlife information. The free magazines, Strandgut (website: www.strandgut.de), Fritz (website: www.fritz-frankfurt.de) and Kultur News (website: www.kulturnews.de or www.citymag.info/frankfurt) all have information on culture and nightlife in Frankfurt (in German) and are available at the tourist information centre. An excellent source of information and listings is available from the online service (website: www.rhein-main.net) for Frankfurter Neue Presse and Journal Frankfurt.

Bars: To experience the best of a dying breed of ppelwoi taverns, trawl the streets of Alt Sachsenhausen around Affentorplatz. However, if an up-to-the minute scene is more your style, try the super-trendy Soho, Fritschengsschen 5, or Coconut Groove, Kaiserstrasse 53, a stylish restaurant-bar with live music and tables spilling onto the pavement in summer.

In the centre, the places to see and be seen are Lounge, Weissadlergasse 15, a cosy bar that is open until 0300 every day, Keepers Bar, Berliner Strasse 175, offering an excellent mix of cocktails and DJs, and the trendy Studio Bar, Katharinenpforte 6, with upstairs seating in its penthouse. A place with understated style is Luna Bar, Stiftstrasse 6. This is one of the best ‘designer bars’ in Germany, with great atmosphere and 52 types of whisky to choose from. Once a month, the venue hosts a Lunatics Party, with live music.

The Main Tower Bar, on the 53rd floor of the only public skyscraper in Frankfurt, offers breathtaking drinks as well as views from 1830 onwards. Craving German beer? Make for Elfer Music Club, Maybachstrasse 24, the mother of all trendy pubs in Frankfurt. Prices are quite steep at Jimmy’s in the Frankfurt Hessischer Hof Hotel, Friedrich Ebert Anlage 40, but anyone on an expense account will enjoy the cosmopolitan atmosphere and the gentleman’s club surroundings. A friendly and atmospheric Irish pub is located opposite the Hauptbahnhof. The imaginatively named O’Reilly’s, Am Hauptbahnhof Strasse, offers punters the chance to sink a pint of Guinness, as well as some balls in the new pool room. Or the homesick can head for the creatively named Irish Pub, Kleine Rittergasse 11-13. A lively gay pub, which gets going early in the afternoon, is Zum Schweijk, Schfergasse 20.

Casinos: Bad Homburg Casino is the nearest casino – in the spa town of Bad Homburg, just to the north of Frankfurt, on Im Kurpark. Table gambling is available 1500-0300. It costs 2.50 for a day card and the minimum age is 18 years – ID in the form of a driving licence or passport is required. Dress code is smart, with no jeans, sports clothes, sandals or trainers. A jacket and tie is required for men.

Clubs: Nachtleben, Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 45, is two places in one – upstairs a trendy bar and downstairs a dance club playing house on Thursday and drum’n’bass on Saturday. You can groove into the small hours at L.O.F.T.House, Hanauer Landstrasse 181-185, which nightly rages to everything from techno to 60s rock. Galerie, Dsseldorfer Strasse 1-7, is where the young and trendy enjoy live sets, dance music, theatre performances and unusual art exhibitions. House and trance features prominently at Blue Angel, Brnnerstrasse 17. Das 21. Jahrhundert, Oeder Weg 21, is open every day until the morning hours and hosts DJs from around the world. A palatial villa in Bethmann Park is the chic setting of the Odeon disco, Seilerstrasse 34. A more alternative, almost kitsch, venue is Schaubar, Saalburgstrasse 61.

Live music: The most exciting venue in the city is Die Brotfabrik, Bachmannstrasse 2-4 (website: www.brotfabrik.de), which features live international music. There is also a caf and restaurant on site. Batschkapp, Maybachstrasse 24 (website: www.batschkapp.de), hosts rock, pop and DJ acts, with guests including German punk rockers Die Toten Hosen and famous names like Tracy Chapman and Napalm Death.

Cabaret and live concerts get an airing at Sinkkasten, Brnnerstrasse 5, and Neues Theater Hchst, Emmerich-Josef-Strasse 46a (website: www.neues-theater.de). Live salsa, Latino, ‘Havana heat’ and ‘Bronx beat’ are all on offer at the brightly hued Latin Palace Chango, Mnchener Strasse 57. The most famous and atmospheric venue on Jazzgasse is Der Jazzkeller, Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18a, which is open 0900-0400 Wednesday to Sunday, with live music on Thursday and Saturday. NuJazz is featured at the popular live music venue, King Kamehameha, Hanauer Landstrasse 192.

International pop and rock stars pack out the Festhalle, Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1 (website: www.festhalle-frankfurt.de), and Jahrhunderthalle Frankfurt, Pfaffenwiese.

Variety: Tiger Palast, Heiligkreuzgasse 16-20 (website: www.tigerpalast.com), a converted chapel, hosts celebrated variety shows featuring magicians and circus performers, with a restaurant, bar and bistro on site. Shows cost 45 (concessions available). The first and oldest cabaret in town is Die Ks, Waldschmidtstrasse 19 (website: www.die-kaes.com), which guarantees German humour at its best, while Neues Theater Hchst, Emmerich-Josef-Strasse 46a (website: www.neues-theater.de), also puts on a good show every now and again.

City Statistics

Location: Hessen, central Germany.
Country dialling code: 49.
Population: 650,000 (city); 4.8 million (Rhine-Main region).
Ethnic mix: 72.4% German, 20% Turkish, Indian and other nationalities, 2.1% American, 1.9% British, 1.9% French, 0.6% Japanese, 0.6% Korean, 0.48% Chinese.
Religion: 45% Protestant, 37% Catholic, 18% Muslim and other religions.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 1C (34F).
Average July temp: 19C (66F).
Annual rainfall: 625mm (25 inches).

Special Events

Heimtextil, trade fair for home and household textiles, Jan, Messegelnde
Beautyworld, trade fair for paper, office supplies, perfumery, cosmetics and accessories, Jan, Messegelnde
Ambiente, trade fair for consumer goods, Feb, Messegelnde
Musikmesse, international music trade fair, Mar, Messegelnde
Frhjahrs Dippemess, traditional spring festival, Apr, Festplatz
Art Frankfurt, Apr/May, Messegelnde
ACHEMA, chemical engineering, environmental protection and biotechnology trade fair, May, Messegelnde
Wldchestag, folk festival, May-Jun, Stadtwald
Apfelweinfest, apple wine festival, Jun, Rmerberg
Race for the Cure, marathon, late Jun, Sachsenhausen
Sommerfest (Summer Festival), Jun-Jul, Opernplatz
Mainfest (Main Festival), Jul-Aug, between Paulsplatz and Mainkai
Museumsuferfest (Museum Embankment Festival), Aug, Schaumainkai
Tendence Lifestyle, trade fair for consumer goods, late Aug, Messegelnde
Rheingau Weinmarkt (Rheingau Wine Market), Sep, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse
Herbst-Dippemess, traditional autumn festival, Sep, Festplatz
Frankfurt Marathon, late Oct, Frankfurt Messe
Frankfurter Buchmesse (Frankfurt Book Fair), Oct, Messegelnde
Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market), Nov-Dec, Rmerberg, Paulsplatz, Liebfrauenberg, Neue Krme, Fahrtor and Mainkai

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 1.00
33cl bottle of beer: 1.30
Financial Times newspaper: 2.40
36-exposure colour film: 4.60
City-centre bus ticket: 1.25
Adult football ticket: 5.50-62
Three-course meal with wine/beer: 25

1 Euro (1) = 0.67; US$1.29; C$1.61; A$1.65
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005