World City Guide

Mini Guide of Edinburgh

City Overview

The setting of Scotland’s capital city could not be more striking. Located in the Lothians, on the east coast of Scotland, Edinburgh is perched on a number of extinct volcano cones and rocky crags and has a brooding, chilly beauty unequalled anywhere in Britain. The origin of the name ‘Edinburgh’ is uncertain. Possibly it’s a corruption of Edwin’s Burgh – Edwin being a ninth-century King of Northumbria, whose domain extended to the Firth of Forth. Or it could be derived from Dunedin, or rather ‘din Eidyn’ (meaning ‘Eidyn’s Hill Fort’), the city’s original name, mentioned in a poem composed around 600 AD. What is certain is that Edinburgh has been inhabited since around 1500 BC, making it one of the longest continuously inhabited places in northern Europe. The city grew in importance and, by the end of the 15th century, was established as Scotland’s capital. Scotland’s links with England became closer after 1603, when James VI of Scotland became James I of England, effectively uniting the two crowns. In 1707, the Act of Union (uniting the Scottish and English parliaments) knocked a nail into the coffin of Scotland’s independence, although Scotland retained its own Church and separate legal and educational systems. However, with the re-introduction of the Scottish Parliament in 1999, Edinburgh has become a centre of political power once again.

The city has successfully established itself as a leading international centre for business, finance and education. Industry in Edinburgh continues to boom, with unemployment running at 2.4% (so below both the Scottish national average of 3.0% and the UK average of 3.0%). After London, it is the most important financial centre in Britain. The city also has four universities. The oldest, the University of Edinburgh, was established in 1583. Although it is more conservative than other Scottish cities, such as Glasgow, Edinburgh is still an exciting, forward-looking capital, full of art, culture, history and beauty. It has manifold art galleries and museums, five major performing-arts theatres and a year-round calendar of international festivals. The city is also a World Heritage Site, thanks to its medieval Old Town, 12th-century castle and 18th-century Georgian New Town. To complete the picture, a large proportion of the city is composed of green areas and parkland. The only dull note is its chilly damp climate, best summed up by the Scottish word ‘dreich’ that translates as ‘grey, damp and drizzly’.

For this reason, most tourists descend on Edinburgh in summer (between July and September) and particularly in August, for the world-famous Edinburgh International Festival, when the city is abuzz with cultural activity. There is also a lively Fringe Festival, Military Tattoo and the Book, Film and Jazz Festivals running concurrently with the main event. However, it is also very crowded at this time, with accommodation booked up for months in advance. Another influx of visitors occurs over the New Year period, when the popular Hogmanay Festival takes place. The quietest time to visit, therefore, is either in the spring or late autumn, when the attractions are less overrun with tourists and some hotels offer discounts.

Getting There By Air

Edinburgh International Airport (EDI)
Tel: (0131) 333 1000. Fax: (0131) 335 3181.
Website: www.baa.com or www.flyedi.com

Scotland’s fastest growing airport is located 12km (eight miles) west of Edinburgh. Over 100 million Pounds was invested in developing the airport, which was completed in April 2001. A new multi storey car park is being built which is due to be completed by November 2004. Edinburgh International Airport serves over five million passengers to over 56 destinations worldwide. There are more than 30 flights to London’s five airports every day, with regular flights to other major cities in the UK and overseas. Direct transatlantic links are available from Glasgow International Airport, approximately one hour from Edinburgh.

Major airlines: Scotland has not had its own national airline since the demise of British Caledonian in 1987. British Midland (tel: (0870) 607 0555; website: www.flybmi.com ) flies to a large number of destinations from Edinburgh. Other airlines include Air France, Air Scotland, British Airways, British European, duo, easyJet, KLM UK, Lufthansa, Ryanair and Scot Airways.

Approximate flight times to Edinburgh: From London is 1 hour 15 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 12 hours; from Toronto is 8 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 22 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bureaux de change, information desk, Edinburgh Tourist Board office, hotel reservations, left-luggage; lost property, shops (including a newsagent and gift shops), duty-free shops, first aid, bars, restaurants and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, National and Hertz.

Business facilities: British Airways, British Midland and Servisair (tel: 0131 344 3111; website: www.servisair.com ) all provide executive lounges with telephone, fax and computer facilities.

Departure tax: 20 is always included in the price of the flight.

Transport to the city: Lothian Buses (tel: (0131) 555 6363; website: www.lothianbuses.co.uk ) run from the terminal forecourt to the city centre terminus at Waverley Bridge (situated above Waverley railway station) via Haymarket station (journey time – 25 minutes). These buses operate every eight to 10 minutes, 0650-2140 Monday to Saturday (then every 15 mins 2140-1225), 1010-2128 Sunday (then every 20 mins until 1225). There are also hourly services from 1245 to 0345 during the night. A single fare costs 3.30. The Airsaver ticket (4.20) covers a single fare, plus same-day unlimited travel on Lothian Buses, once in the city centre. Taxis are available from the taxi rank in front of the terminal or by calling Airport Taxis (tel: (0131) 344 3344). A trip to the city centre (journey time – 20 minutes) costs approximately 20. Access to the city by car is along the A8 Edinburgh-Glasgow road.

Getting There By Water

Edinburgh’s Port of Rosyth (tel: (01383) 413 366 or 421 800; fax: (01383) 414 499) is overseen by Forth Ports Plc (tel: (0131) 555 8700; fax: (0131) 553 7462; website: www.forthports.co.uk ), situated across the Forth Bridge at Rosyth in Fife, approximately a 35-minute drive from the city centre. There is a new terminal building, with passenger check-in facilities and a lounge.

Ferry services: Superfast Ferries (tel: (0870) 234 0870; website: www.superfast.com ) operates a service to Zeebrugge, Belgium. This runs Mon-Sat and alternative Suns mid Mar-mid June and Sept, Oct; daily mid June- July, Aug; Mon-Sat Jan-mid Mar, Nov, Dec. The overnight ferry departs Zeebrugge at 1800, arriving at Rosyth at 1030. Outward bound ferries depart Rosyth at 1700, arriving at Zeebrugge at 1130.

Transport to the city: Rennies Coaches (tel: (01383) 620600; website: www.renniesofdunfermline.co.uk ) operates bus X2 to the city centre (journey time – 45 minutes). The service runs daily, to link with the arrival of the ferry at around 1100, costing 3 for a single or 6 return.

Getting There By Road

British road designations are ‘M’ for motorways, ‘A’ for major trunk roads and ‘B’ for minor trunk roads (followed by up to four numbers). Traffic in the UK drives on the left and overtakes on the right. The speed limits are 113kph (70mph) on motorways, 97kph (60mph) on single-lane main roads and 48kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Seatbelts are compulsory for drivers and front-seat passengers and for rear-seat passengers if fitted. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%. Non-British national driving licences and International Driving Permits are valid for driving in Britain for up to one year and drivers must be over 18 years. Insurance is mandatory. Overseas visitors bringing their own cars should bring registration documents and check with their insurance company as to whether a Green Card is needed.

Breakdown service and general motoring information is available from the Automobile Association (tel: (0870) 600 0371; website: www.theaa.com ), the Royal Automobile Club (tel: (0870) 572 2722; website: www.rac.co.uk ) and Green Flag (tel: (0845) 246 1557; website: www.greenflag.co.uk ).

Emergency breakdown services (toll free):
AA (0800) 887 766
Green Flag (0800) 590 590
RAC (08000) 828 282

Routes to the city: Edinburgh is linked to Glasgow by the M8 motorway and from there to England and Wales by the M74 – the A74 and M6 further to the south (toward Manchester). Edinburgh is also directly linked to London by the A1.

Approximate driving times to Edinburgh: From Glasgow – 1 hour; Manchester – 4 hours and 15 minutes; London – 7 hours and 30 minutes.

Coach services: National Express (tel: (0870) 580 8080; fax: (0121) 622 6526; website: www.nationalexpress.com ) operates regular daily coach services from both London and Manchester to Edinburgh. Scottish Citylink Coaches (tel: (0870) 550 5050; fax: (0141) 332 8055; website: www.citylink.co.uk ) is the largest provider of express coach services in Scotland, with a comprehensive network of destinations. There are frequent services to Glasgow (journey time – 70 minutes) and Aberdeen (journey time – 3-4 hours). All the coaches leave from Elder Street, near St Andrew Square.

Getting There By Rail

Rail service in Edinburgh is as bad as it is in the rest of Britain. While long distance services are fairly reliable (especially the GNER service to London), other trains can be cancelled at the last minute, with no explanation. The major rail service provider for routes to and from the south is Great North East Railway – GNER (tel: (0845) 722 5225; website: www.gner.co.uk ), while Scotrail (tel: (0845) 755 0033; website: www.scotrail.co.uk ) operates all services within Scotland, as well as a London-Edinburgh link. National Rail Enquiries (tel: (0845) 748 4950) provides 24-hour timetable and fare information for all train companies.

Edinburgh has two train stations – Waverley station (located right in the heart of the city, at the East End of Princes Street) and Haymarket station (at the junction of Dalry Road and Haymarket, in the West End). Facilities at Waverley include a food mall, a newsagent and a pub.

Rail services: Scotrail (see above) operates a train service from Glasgow to Edinburgh every 15 minutes (journey time – 50 minutes). Scotrail’s Caledonian Sleeper, between London (Euston) and Edinburgh, runs every night except Saturday (journey time – 6 hours and 45 minutes). Virgin Trains (tel: (0845) 722 2333; website: www.virgintrains.co.uk ) operates a direct service between Manchester and Edinburgh, three times a day (journey time – 3 hours). GNER operates a direct half-hourly service between London (Kings Cross) and Edinburgh (journey time – 4 hours and 30 minutes).

Transport to the city: Both Waverley station and Haymarket station are within walking distance of the Old Town and the New Town. The stations are also served by numerous bus routes and taxis.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Traveline (tel: (0870) 6082608), provides information on all bus, coach and train routes within Lothian. The office is open from Monday to Friday 0830-1700 (telephone lines operate until 2000). There is no light rail or tram system within the city and Edinburgh commuters rely on the frequent bus services.

Lothian Buses, 27 Hanover Street (tel: (0131) 555 6363; website: www.lothianbuses.co.uk ), provides bus services within the city and to outlying districts, as does First Edinburgh (tel: (08708) 727271; website: www.firstedinburgh.co.uk ). The Council ‘Greenways Scheme’ makes it illegal for drivers to park on the city’s main arteries and gives buses exclusive, green tarmac lanes. As a result, the bus service flows fairly freely 0600-2400, after which the night bus service comes into operation.

Fares range from 80 pence to 1.00 – night buses charge 2 and exact change is required. There are a number of passes allowing reduced fares. Lothian Buses sell a Daysaver ticket that gives unlimited travel on its routes (including those outside the city) for 2.50 before 0930 and 1.80 after 0930 and at weekends. Lothian Buses also sells weekly (11.00) and four-weekly (33.00) passes, which allow unlimited travel on Lothian Buses within these time frames. First Edinburgh has a 2.20-4.75 (depending on zones) day pass, allowing unlimited travel throughout the whole of Edinburgh and some outlying areas in a 24-hour period.

A new One-Ticket covers travel on both bus and train throughout Edinburgh and the outlying areas. A One-Ticket daily pass for all buses (Lothian and First Edinburgh) costs 2.90 or 5.50 for use on buses and trains. A weekly One-Ticket for all buses costs 13.50 or 23 for use on buses and trains. Tickets and Daysaver passes are available for purchase on the bus, although exact change is required. All other passes must be purchased at the Waverley Bridge Ticket Centre, Waverley Bridge (tel: (0131) 555 6363), open daily 0830-1730 (summer) and 0830-1600 (winter).

Taxis
Edinburgh’s taxis are mainly black hackney cabs and can be safely hailed in the street. All are licensed and have meters fitted. Some form of driver ID should be prominently displayed. Taxi companies include City Cabs (tel: (0131) 228 1211; website: www.citycabs.co.uk ) and Central Radio Taxis (tel: (0131) 229 2468; website: www.taxis-edinburgh.co.uk ). Rates are fairly expensive at about 1.80 per kilometre (2.30 per mile). A tip of 10% is expected.

Limousines
Little’s Chauffeur Drive (tel: (0131) 334 2177; fax: (0141) 891 5766; e-mail: reservations@littles.co.uk; website: www.littles.co.uk ) has a fleet of Daimlers, Mercedes, people carriers and Volvo limousines. A ride from the airport to the city centre costs 40-55 (plus VAT), while hire for eight hours and 60km (40 miles) costs 160-220 (plus VAT). WL Sleigh Ltd (tel: (0131) 337 3171; fax: (0131) 346 8335; e-mail: info@sleigh.co.uk; website: www.sleigh.co.uk ) hires out Mercedes and people carriers. Eight hours hire in the city centre costs 216 (plus VAT), hourly hire is from 27.00 in the city centre, 35.00 outlying areas and airport transfer costs from 45.00.

Driving in the City
Driving around Edinburgh is more hassle than it is worth, so the general advice to visitors is to walk, cycle or use public transport. Visitors who do bring a car should be aware that parking is particularly problematic. Metered parking (in force Monday to Saturday 0830-1830) is restricted in the city and a resident’s parking permit is required in many areas. In central locations, such as George Street, parking can cost up to 45p for 15 minutes. Failure to comply with parking regulations can result in a costly fine and the offending vehicle being towed away. The easiest option is for drivers to use one of the NCP car parks, such as at the St James Centre or Castle Terrace, or the Waverley Car Park, New Street, near Waverley station, which charge approximately 13-16 for 24 hours.

Car Hire
Regulations vary from company to company, however, in all cases, drivers will require a valid driving licence to hire a car in the UK. In most cases, this can be a national driving licence, although an International Driving Permit may be preferred if the licence is not in English. Separate proof of address is often required. A credit card is also essential. It is important for visitors to check what level of insurance is included in the price of car hire. In general, drivers have to be over 23 to hire a car.

Avis (tel: (0131) 337 6363 or (08700) 100 287; website: www.avis.co.uk ) charges from 44.50 per day, including unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver, theft protection and tax. Hertz (tel: (0131) 556 8311; or (0870) 846 0013; website: www.hertz.co.uk ) charges from 40 per day, including unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver, service charge and tax. Arnold Clark Car Rental (tel: (0131) 228 4747); website: www.arnoldclark.co.uk ) charges from 18 per day, including a free 400km (250 miles) and tax – drivers must have held a licence for over a year.

Bicycle Hire
Bike Trax Cycle Hire, 11 Lochrin Place, Tollcross (tel: (0131) 228 6633; fax: (0131) 228 3686; e-mail:info@biketrax.co.uk; website: www.biketrax.co.uk ), hires out a wide range of bicycles. The standard rate (including helmet and lock) is 10 for half a day and 15 per day – a 100 deposit and photo ID are also required.

Business

Business Profile
The thriving, modern environment of Edinburgh provides work for around 440,000 people. Roughly 47.5 % are involved in managerial, professional and administrative occupations and under 20% of them are involved in manufacturing. Most jobs are in the service industry (over 18,000 people work in tourism alone), finance and administration. Recent statistics indicate a level of 2.4% unemployment, compared with the Scottish average of 3.0% and the UK average of 3.0%.

More than 75% of all those working in manufacturing are employed by four sectors – the chemical industry; electrical engineering; paper, printing and publishing; and food and drink. Five of the largest manufacturers are Johnston Press plc, Diageo Scotland ltd, Diageo Distilling ltd, Sidlaw Group ltd, Scottish & Newcastle (brewing/leisure). Of the service sector, 80% work for information technology, tourism and financial companies. The latter account for a third of all commercial office space in the city, making Edinburgh the second most important financial centre in Britain (after London). A new financial district known as ‘The Exchange’ has been built in an effort to sustain this position. The Exchange complex cost more than 400 million to build and includes the huge Edinburgh International Conference Centre (EICC). Since the opening of the EICC in 1995, more than 100,000 new business tourists have arrived annually in the city, bringing in an estimated additional revenue of 24.2 million.

The five largest companies in Edinburgh (ranked by turnover) are Standard Life, Scottish Equitable plc, Scottish & Newcastle plc, Scottish Equitable Managed Funds ltd, and Scottish Courage. Some of the major employers are Scottish & Newcastle, The Royal Bank of Scotland, H BoS (Bank of Scotland), Standard Life, The Governor & Co, Scottish Executive, Lothian Health Board and City of Edinburgh Council.

Business Etiquette
Standard office hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1700. Punctuality is expected at meetings. Both men and women are expected to wear suits. It is common practice to shake hands when greeting a business contact and to use his or her surname until both parties agree to use forenames (although formalities are often dispensed with straight away). English is the language of business – the only difficulty visitors may have is in understanding the Scottish accent, which can be quite strong. An increasing number of locals speak other European languages.

Clients are usually well entertained by their Edinburgh hosts, most likely taken to lunch in a restaurant or pub (depending on the formality of the business) or to a restaurant in the evening. It is not usual for clients to be invited to one's home. If this is the case, however, visitors should take a gift of flowers, chocolates, wine or whisky.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overveiw
The main districts of Edinburgh are the Georgian New Town, the medieval Old Town and the port of Leith. The castle dominates the urban landscape, marking the centre of the city and overlooking Princes Street, Edinburgh’s main thoroughfare, which has been described as one of the most beautiful streets in the world. The Royal Mile links Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse and was the main artery of the medieval city. Careful preservation in the 20th century has maintained its distinctive character. To the north, along the Firth of Forth, the Leith docks have recently been regenerated with stylish waterfront hotels, restaurants, pubs and wine bars.

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Tourist Information
The Edinburgh and Scotland Information Centre
3 Princes Street
Tel: (0131) 473 3800 . Fax: (01506) 832222.
E-mail: esic@eltd.org
Website: www.edinburgh.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700; Sun 1000-1700 open later in summer.

There are also city centre representatives (roaming tourist officers) who offer advice and assistance. They are found around the Royal Mile, Princes Street and Waverley station.

Passes
Historic Scotland (website: www.historic-scotland.gov.uk ) offers three-day, seven-day and 10-day Explorer passes, giving access to all the Historic Scotland properties (such as Edinburgh Castle) both in Edinburgh and the rest of Scotland. A three-day adult pass costs 15, a seven-day one 20 and a 10-day one 23. Cards are available for purchase at the attractions, most tourist information offices and online. The National Trust for Scotland (website: www.nts.org.uk ) offers three, seven and 14-day Discovery passes, giving entry to all of their properties in Scotland, including The Georgian House in Edinburgh. Discovery passes cost 12, 17 and 22 respectively and are available from the National Trust’s headquarters, 28 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh.

Key Attractions

Edinburgh Castle
This is Scotland’s most famous tourist attraction, built on the core of an extinct volcano. There has been a stronghold on this site since at least the first century AD. Edinburgh Castle now houses the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, Mons Meg (a massive 15th-century cannon) and the army headquarters of the Scottish Division. The panorama from the battlements provides a splendid view over the city.

Castlehill
Tel: (0131) 225 9846. Fax: (0131) 220 4733.
Website: www.historic-scotland.gov.uk (under ‘our built heritage’)
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Apr-Oct); daily 0930-1700 (Nov-Mar); last entrance 45 minutes before closing time.
Admission: 8.50, concessions available.

Palace of Holyroodhouse
The Palace of Holyroodhouse sits at the eastern end of the Royal Mile and has been the royal quarter of Edinburgh since 1128, when David I founded an abbey here. Most of the present building dates from the reign of Charles II, who ordered the palace’s reconstruction. The palace remains the Queen’s official residence in Scotland and may be closed when the royal family is stopping over.

Canongate, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 556 5100. Fax: (020) 7930 9625.
Website: www.royal.gov.uk (under ‘royal residences’)
Transport: Bus 35 or 64.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Apr-Oct); daily 0930-1630 (Nov-Mar); last entrance 45 minutes before closing time.
Admission: 7.50, concessions available.

National Gallery of Scotland
The collection of European paintings and sculpture dating from the Renaissance to the 19th century is Scotland’s greatest and includes works by Van Dyck, Tiepolo, Pisarro, Monet, Czanne, El Greco, Raphael, Titian and Botticelli. The Scottish Portrait Gallery is located nearby, at 1 Queen Street.

The Mound
Tel: (0131) 624 6200 or 332 2266 (recorded information). Fax: (0131) 220 0917.
E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org
Website: www.nationalgalleries.org
Transport: Bus 23, 27, 28 or 41/41A.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, open till 1900 on Thurs.
Admission: Free.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
This gallery first opened in 1960 and moved to its present location, a William Burn building, west of the city centre, in 1984. Paintings by 20th-century masters such as Lucien Freud, Adrian Wiszniewski and the Scottish colourists are on display indoors, while the garden is dotted with sculptures by Henry Moore (among others). Opposite is the Dean Gallery, a stylish gallery that opened in 1999 to house a large collection of works by sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi. The gallery also contains works by surrealists, such as Dali and Magritte, as well as works by Picasso. A free galleries bus operates hourly 1100-1700 between this gallery and Dean Gallery in the West End and the National Gallery of Scotland and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in the Old Town.

75 Belford Road
Tel: (0131) 624 6200 or 332 2266 (recorded information). Fax: (0131) 623 7126.
E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org
Website: www.nationalgalleries.org
Transport: Bus 13, westbound from George Street; free galleries bus.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, open until 1900 on Thurs.
Admission: Free.

Museum of Scotland
This museum opened in December 1998, in a spectacular new building. The exhibits detail the country’s history from its geological formation and earliest inhabitants up to the 20th century. Scotland’s regional treasures are also on display. Exhibits include a travelling canteen belonging to Bonnie Prince Charlie. Two days could easily be spent in the museum. However, to enjoy the highlights there are daily guided tours. It is conveniently joined to the Royal Museum of Scotland, which has displays covering everything Japanese art to natural history.

Chambers Street
Tel: (0131) 225 7534. Fax: (0131) 220 4819.
Website: www.nms.ac.uk
Transport: Bus2, 23, 27, 35, 41, 42.
Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sat 1000-1700, Tues 1000-2000 and Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Our Dynamic Earth
One of Edinburgh’s latest attractions, Our Dynamic Earth tells the story of how the earth was created. Using special effects and advanced technology, visitors can travel back in time (via a ‘time machine’) to witness the birth of the earth, before journeying to the centre of the planet to experience a volcanic eruption, see polar ice caps and a tropical rainforest. A visit lasts approximately 90 minutes.

Holyrood Road
Tel: (0131) 550 7800. Fax: (0131) 550 7801.
E-mail: enquiries@dynamicearth.co.uk
Website: www.dynamicearth.co.uk
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800, last entry 1650 (Apr-Oct); Wed-Sun 1000-1700, last entry 1550 (Nov-Mar).
Admission: 8.95, concessions available.

The Georgian House
Part of Charlotte Square, at the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, the Georgian House is furnished with the same kind of china, silver, paintings and furniture that would have been in use around 1796.
National Trust of Scotland, 7 Charlotte Square
Tel: (0131) 225 2160. Fax: (0131) 226 3318.
E-mail: thegeorgianhouse@nts.org.uk
Website: www.nts.org.uk (under ‘visit’)
Transport: Bus 3/3A, 10/10A, 11, 12, 26/26A, 21,69,33,31,40,41.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700, last admission 1630 (Apr-Oct); daily 1100-1500, last admission 1430 (Mar, Nov-Dec); hours liable to change
Admission: 5, concessions available.

St Giles’ Cathedral
A church has stood on the site of St Giles’ Cathedral, the High Kirk of Edinburgh, since the 12th century. The present building, with its distinctive open-crown steeple supported by eight flying buttresses, dates back to the 16th century. John Knox became the first Protestant minister here, after the Reformation. Inside, the stunning Thistle Chapel is noted for its ornate wooden carving.

High Street, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 225 9442. Fax: (0131) 225 9576.
E-mail: info@stgiles.net
Website: www.stgiles.net
Transport: A five-minute walk from Waverley station; bus 35, 23, 28, 42 or 27.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (May-Sep); Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700 (Oct-Apr).
Admission: Free, donations are welcome.

Royal Yacht Britannia
Now that the Royal Yacht Britannia has been decommissioned, it is open to the public, who can explore its decks and gain an insight into the lives of both the Royal Family and the ship’s crew. The Queen’s bedroom is top of everyone’s ‘must see’ list. A complementary exhibition outlines the vessel’s final year in service as the Royal Yacht.

Ocean Terminal, Leith
Tel: (0131) 555 5566. Fax: (0131) 555 8835.
E-mail: enquiries@tryb.co.uk
Website: www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
Transport: Bus 22, 11, 34, 35, 36.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800 (Apr-Sep); daily 1000-1700 (Oct-Mar). Last admissions 90 minutes before closing time.
Admission: 8; concessions available.

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
Scotland is defined by its fine whiskies – tourists flock from far afield to sample the smooth wares. The one-hour tour of the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre includes talks on the production of single malt whisky, the different whisky-producing regions and how whisky is blended.

354 Castlehill, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 220 0441. Fax: (0131) 220 6288.
E-mail: info@whisky-heritage.co.uk
Website: www.whisky-heritage.co.uk
Transport: Bus 35.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (Oct-Apr); daily 0930-1830 (May-Sep). Last tour departs one hour before closing time.
Admission: 7.95, concessions available.

Further Distractions

Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
Regarded as Scotland’s premier garden, this is one of the city’s most popular visitor attractions. Covering 31 hectares (78 acres), the garden contains a plant collection of unique botanical importance. It is the direct descendant of a physic garden established near the Palace of Holyroodhouse in 1670.

20a Inverleith Row
Tel: (0131) 552 7171. Fax: (0131) 248 2901.
E-mail: info@rbge.org.uk
Website: www.rbge.org.uk
Transport: Bus 23 or 27.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900 (Apr-Sept); daily 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb); daily 1000-1800 (Mar and Oct).
Admission: Free (donations are welcome).

Writers’ Museum
This literary museum is dedicated to the history and artefacts of three of Scotland’s most famous men of letters – Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns.

Lady Stair’s House, Lady Stair’s Close, Lawnmarket
Tel: (0131) 529 4901. Fax: (0131) 220 5057.
E-mail: enquiries@writersmuseum.demon.co.uk
Website: www.cac.org.uk
Transport: Bus 36, 23, 41/41A.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700 (plus Sun 1400-1700 during the Edinburgh Festival).
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Cadies-Witchery Tours, 84 West Bow (tel: (0131) 225 6745; fax: (0131) 220 2086; e-mail: info@witcherytours.com; website: www.witcherytours.com ), organises walking tours of the Old Town, mixing history with humour and ghosts with gore. The adult price of 7 includes a book of witchery tales. The tour leaves from The Witchery restaurant, near the Castle, and lasts 90 minutes.

Mercat Walking Tours, Mercat House, Niddry Street South (tel/fax: (0131) 557 6464; e-mail: info@mercattours.com; website: www.mercattours.com ), operates a ‘Ghosts and Ghouls’ tour daily at 1900 and 2000. The tour costs 7.50 for adults, lasts two hours and includes a visit to haunted 18th-century underground vaults. The tour sets off from the Mercat Cross by St Giles Cathedral.

The two-hour Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour, 97b West Bow (tel/fax: (0131) 226 6665; e-mail: info@scot-lit-tour.co.uk; website: www.scot-lit-tour.co.uk ) has actors guiding walkers through historic taverns where famous writers used to meet. The evening tour sets off from the Beehive Inn, in the Grassmarket, and costs 7 for adults (concessions available). Tours start at 1930 and run daily from June to September (less frequently in winter).

Bus Tours
All tour buses are run by Edinburgh Bus Tours (tel: (0131) 220 0770; e-mail: edinburghtours@fsmail.net; website: www.edinburghtour.com ) Tours depart every 10/15 minutes from Waverley Bridge (every 30 minutes in winter). The city sightseeing circuit takes approximately one hour and covers all the major sites, such as Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. A day ticket costs 8.50.

Helicopter Tours
Lothian Helicopters (tel: (01875) 320032; e-mail: iain@lothianhelicopters.co.uk; website: www.lothianhelicopters.co.uk ) runs helicopter tours of the city, costing from 39.90 per person for 10 minutes to 180 for 45 minutes. Tours take off from Edinburgh Airport and take sightseers over the Forth Road and Rail Bridges, as well as the Forth Estuary. Ten minutes of helicopter travel covers 12 miles, while the 45-minute tour, covers 95 miles of Edinburgh and the surrounds. Most popular is a 20 minute tour of the city and bridge costing 79.90.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Rosslyn Chapel: Rosslyn Chapel (tel: (0131) 440 2159; fax: (0131) 440 1979; e-mail: rosslynch@aol.com; website: www.rosslynchapel.org.uk ), in Roslin, is one of the most fascinating churches in Britain. It has strong links with the Knights Templar, a medieval religious order who travelled to the Holy Land and believed to have brought back many treasures – some of which it is claimed are buried at Rosslyn. The chapel is full of rich carvings, including many ancient pagan symbols known as ‘green men’. It is situated approximately a 45-minute drive from the city centre – sign posted from the A701 to Penicuik. Bus 15A or First Bus 62 from central Edinburgh stops near the chapel. After visiting the chapel, the nearby Rosslyn Glen is a good place for a stroll. The chapel is open Monday to Saturday 1000-1700 and Sunday 1200-1645. Admission costs 4 (concessions are available).

For a Whole Day

Scottish Seabird Centre: The Scottish Seabird Centre, The Harbour, North Berwick (tel: (01620) 890202; fax: (01620) 890 222; e-mail: info@seabird.org; website: www.seabird.org ) gives visitors a unique opportunity to view the birdlife of the Firth of Forth. High-tech cameras, controlled by the visitor, allow close-up views of gannets on the Bass Rock (the world’s largest single rock gannetry) and nesting puffins on the island of Fidra. In winter, when many birds have migrated to warmer climes, visitors can watch breeding colonies of seals instead. The pleasant seaside town of North Berwick is also well worth exploring and is easily reached by train from Edinburgh – the centre is a 10-minute walk from the train station. First Edinburgh (tel: (0131) 663 9233) buses 124 and X5 also travel from Edinburgh to North Berwick. The centre is open daily 1000-1800 in the summer and 1000-1600 in the winter. Admission costs 4.95 (concessions are available).

Traquair House: The home of the Maxwell-Stuarts, Traquair House (tel: (01896) 830 323; fax: (01896) 830 639; e-mail: enquiries@traquair.co.uk; website: www.traquair.co.uk ), is the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, dating back to the 10th century. It is a fascinating place to visit, as the family was strongly involved with the Jacobite movement and there is a good collection of Jacobite memorabilia. The house also has its own brewery and grounds, which are rather lovely. Located a mile south of Innerleithen, Traquair House is on the A703 then the A703 in the direction of Peebles. By public transport, First Edinburgh (tel: (08708) 727271) bus 62 runs to Innerleithen, from where it is a short taxi ride. The house is open daily from mid April to the end of October – the grounds are open 1030-1730 (1600 Oct), while the house is open 1230-1730 (opening earlier at 1030 from June to the end of August). Admission to the house and grounds costs 5.60 (concessions are available) and to the grounds only costs 2.50.

Glasgow: This other famous Scottish city is less than one hour away by train. The Glasgow Tourist Information Centre, 11 George Square (tel: (0141) 204 4480; fax: (0141) 566 4073; e-mail: enquiries@seeglasgow.com; website: www.seeglasgow.com ) is open daily and provides information (see the Columbus Glasgow City Guide for more information).

Sport

Football is Scotland’s most popular game and there is a separate Scottish League in which Scotland’s football teams compete. The national team generally manages to reach the first round of the World Cup but has never got through to the second round. Scottish football is dominated by teams from Glasgow, Celtic and Rangers, which are placed first and second respectively in the Premier Division of the Scottish League standing (2002). Edinburgh’s two main football teams are Heart of Midlothian (‘Hearts’), based at Tynecastle Stadium (tel: (0131) 200 7200; website: www.heartsfc.co.uk ), and Hibernian (‘Hibs’), based at Easter Road Stadium (tel: (0131) 661 2159; website: www.hibernianfc.co.uk ). They are also included in the Premier Division, taking fourth and fifth place respectively.

Rugby is also very popular and Scotland competes in the Six Nations Rugby Championship, which it has won in the past. Murrayfield (tel: (0131) 346 5000; website: www.scottishrugby.org ) is the centre of the nation’s rugby activities. A short distance away, Murrayfield Ice Rink has regular displays of ice-skating, curling and ice hockey. Musselburgh Racecourse, just outside the city boundaries, was established in 1816 and is one of the oldest racetracks in the country.

Tickets for sporting events can be purchased direct from the clubs and from the Murrayfield and Meadowbank, 139 London Road (tel: (0131) 661 5351; fax: (0131) 652 0927) sports centres. Tickets are also available for purchase from Ticketline (tel. (0870) 840 1875 or (0870) 100 0000; website: www.ticketline.co.uk ) and Ticketmaster (tel: (0870) 606 3424; website: www.scotland.ticketmaster.co.uk ).

Fitness Centres: Meadowbank Sports Centre, 139 London Road (tel: (0131) 661 5351; fax: (0131) 652 0927), provides facilities for many different sports.

Golf: Golfers are well catered for in Edinburgh. There are no fewer than six municipal courses and 28 private clubs, many of which welcome visitors. Braid Hills Golf Course, Braid Hills Approach Road, Braid Hills Road (tel: (0131) 447 6666), is a pay-and-play 18-hole course. Green fees are 13-15 per round. Kings Acre Golf Course, Lasswade (tel: (0131) 663 3456; fax: (0131) 663 7076; website: www.kings-acregolf.com ), is an 18-hole pay-and-play par-70 parkland course. Green fees are approximately 18 per round (25 at weekends) and 29 per day (40 at weekends). For more information on golfing in the Edinburgh area, visit www.golfedinburgh.com

Skiing: Midlothian Ski Centre, Hillend, near Edinburgh (tel: (0131) 445 4433; fax: (0131) 445 5549; e-mail: ski@midlothian.gov.uk), is Europe’s longest artificial ski slope, with a chair lift and skiing and snowboarding facilities.

Swimming: The Royal Commonwealth Pool, Dalkeith Road (tel: (0131) 667 7211; fax: (0131) 662 0265), was built for the 1970 Commonwealth Games.

Tennis: Courts are available at Craiglockhart Tennis and Sports Centre, 177 Colinton Road (tel: (0131) 443 0101; fax: (0131) 455 7321).

Watersports: The Port Edgar Marina and Sailing School, Shore Road, South Queensferry (tel: (0131) 331 3330; fax: (0131) 331 4878), is Scotland’s largest watersports centre, with dinghies, catamarans, powerboats and canoes for hire.

Shopping

With regard to shopping, Edinburgh has it all – department stores, friendly little boutiques, the traditional, the new, the expected and the unexpected. Princes Street is the location for Scotland’s most famous shop, Jenners (the oldest independent department store in the world), which has a fabulous food hall. Nearby, in South St Andrew Street, is the city’s most chic shop, Harvey Nichols, which opened in August 2002. Much like its London counterpart, the shop sells the hottest designer labels, as well as beauty products and food. The Royal Mile, on the other hand, is scattered with off-beat stores and souvenir sellers. Nearby Grassmarket (a trading place since 1477) and Victoria Street are packed with arts and crafts shops, bookshops and specialist food stores. Some of the city’s smartest designer stores, such as Escada, are along George Street in the New Town. The main modern shopping centres are Cameron Toll Centre, 6 Lady Road, and the Waverley Shopping Centre on Princes Street. There is also a new shopping complex in Leith, called Ocean Terminal.

Ingliston Market (tel: (0131) 333 3801) takes place every Sunday 1000-1600 at the Royal Highland Show ground, near the airport. Anything and everything is sold here, from clothes to furniture.

Visitors to Edinburgh who want to take home a little piece of Scotland may be tempted by tartan fabrics, Celtic-inspired jewellery, shortbread and, of course, whisky. All these items are available from numerous boutiques and specialist shops in and around the city.

In general, shops are open 0900-1730, with late-night shopping on Thursday until 1930 or 2000. Sunday opening is increasingly popular, particularly among the larger stores. Many shops (especially those frequented by tourists) are part of the Tax-Free scheme. Visitors must keep their receipts and fill out a claim form to have the 17.5% VAT refunded.

Culture

Edinburgh is right at the heart of Scottish culture during the annual Edinburgh International Festival. However, even without this, the city has a flourishing cultural scene in its own right. The Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13-29 Nicolson Street (tel: (0131) 529 6000; fax: (0131) 662 1199; e-mail: tickets@eft.co.uk; website: www.eft.co.uk ), specialises in opera, ballet, dance, musical and variety productions on a grand scale. It has the biggest stage of any presenting theatre in Britain and is the venue for Edinburgh’s most prestigious shows. Usher Hall, Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 8616), is home to the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (website: www.rsno.org.uk ). Major venues (the Royal Lyceum Theatre, the King’s Theatre and Usher Hall) are all to be found in Tollcross, Edinburgh’s equivalent of London’s West End.

Tickets to the Edinburgh Festival, the Hogmanay party and many other cultural events are available for purchase from The Hub, Castlehill (tel: (0131) 473 2000; website: www.eif.co.uk/the hub/ ). Tickets for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival are issued by the Edinburgh Fringe Office, 180 High Street (tel: (0131) 226 5257). All other tickets can be purchased from the venues. The Military Tattoo has its own ticket office on 32 Market Street (tel: (0131) 225 1188). Ticketmaster (tel: (0870) 606 3424; website: www.scotland.ticketmaster.co.uk ) and Ticketline (tel: (0870) 840 1875 or (0870) 100 0000; website: www.ticketline.co.uk ) also provide tickets for some events and venues.

There is a wealth of information for all the Edinburgh cultural events available online, for the Edinburgh Festival (website: www.eif.co.uk ), the Edinburgh Fringe Festival (website: www.edfringe.com ), the Jazz Festival (website: www.jazzmusic.co.uk ), the Edinburgh Film Festival (website: www.edfilmfest.org.uk ), the Book Festival (website: www.edbookfest.co.uk ) and the Military Tattoo (website: www.edintattoo.co.uk ). A good general online source of information (website: www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk ) also provides information on cultural events in the city.

Music: The Usher Hall, Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 8616), is Edinburgh’s finest concert hall and home to the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (website: www.rsno.org.uk ). Queen’s Hall, Clerk Street (tel: (0131) 668 2019; fax: (0131) 668 2656; e-mail: admin@queenshalledinburgh.org; website: www.queenshalledinburgh.co.uk ), is also a popular venue for classical music performance. This former church hosts a world-class programme, headed by the Scottish Chamber Orchestra (website: www.sco.org.uk ). The Edinburgh Playhouse, 18-22 Greenside Place (tel: (0131) 524 3333; website: www.edinburgh-playhouse.co.uk ), was restored in 1993, following a fire. The venue now hosts large musical productions, as well as one-off pop concerts.

Theatre: The Royal Lyceum Theatre Company, 30B Grindlay Street (tel: (0131) 248 4800; e-mail: info@lyceum.org.uk; website: www.lyceum.org.uk ), is Edinburgh’s leading theatre company. The King’s Theatre, 2 Leven Street (tel: (0131) 529 6000; fax: (0131) 662 1199; e-mail: tickets@eft.co.uk; website: www.eft.co.uk ), is an elegant Edwardian venue presenting quality drama of a traditional nature, as well as the city’s annual pantomime. The Traverse Theatre, 10 Cambridge Street (tel: (0131) 228 1404; fax: (0131) 229 8443; e-mail: boxoffice@traverse.co.uk; website: www.traverse.co.uk ), focuses on award-winning, exciting and original contemporary plays by Scottish and international writers.

Dance: The main dance centre in Edinburgh is Dance Base (tel: (0131) 225 5525; website: www.dancebase.org.uk ), which has classes, workshops and events at 14-16 Grassmarket.

Film: The Filmhouse, 88 Lothian Road (tel: (0131) 228 2688; fax: (0131) 229 6482; e-mail: admin@filmhousecinema.com; website: www.filmhousecinema.com ), is an independent arthouse cinema showing international films and classics. It is also the headquarters for the Edinburgh International Film Festival. Multi-screen complexes include the Cameo Cinema, 38 Home Street (tel: (0131) 228 2800), the Odeon Cinema, 7 Clerk Street (tel: (0870) 505 0007), the Warner Village, Greenside Row (tel: (08702) 406020), Ster Century, Ocean Terminal, Leith (tel: (0131) 553 0700 and the UCI, out of town at Kinnaird Park (tel: (0870) 010 2030).

Edinburgh has become an increasingly popular place to make movies and also features in many well-known films. Trainspotting (1996), Shallow Grave (1994), Women Talking Dirty (1999), The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1969) and Great Expectations (1998) were all shot or set in Edinburgh.

Cultural Events: The highlight of the cultural year in Scotland is the Edinburgh International Festival, which takes place for three weeks towards the end of the summer (Aug/Sep). Founded in 1947, it is now the largest arts festival in the world. The innovative Edinburgh Festival Fringe and International Film Festival run concurrently with the main festival. Shows range from short open-air concerts to full-scale productions by the Royal Shakespeare Company. The Military Tattoo also takes place in the summer (Aug) on Edinburgh Castle’s Esplanade. Other major festivals that coincide with the main Festival include the International TV Festival, Edinburgh International Jazz Festival, Edinburgh Book Festival and Edinburgh International Folk Festival. Every April, the city hosts the Edinburgh Science Festival, which attracts scientists from around the world. Edinburgh’s Hogmanay, celebrated on 31 December, has its origins in pre-Christian times and is always one of Europe’s largest New Year celebrations. The Edinburgh and Lothian Information Centre (website: www.edinburgh.org ) provides more information on the programme of events to celebrate Hogmanay in 2004 and 2005.

Literary Notes: The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1961), by Muriel Spark, seemed to define the city’s traditional image in the 20th century, until Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting was published in 1993. Great writers to have expounded on Edinburgh in earlier periods include Robert Louis Stevenson, whose famous tale of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (1886) was set in London but based on his experiences of Edinburgh, and Sir Walter Scott in The Waverley Novels (1829-33). JK Rowling wrote the first book of the Harry Potter series, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (1997), while sitting in a caf in Edinburgh.

Nightlife

Edinburgh is a great place to spend an evening. Nightlife centres on the George Street area of the New Town, the High Street area of the Old Town and the university. The city’s pubs range from traditional taverns with hundreds of years of history behind them, to slinky modern style-bars. After pub closing time, Edinburgh’s club scene offers everything from easy listening to the latest noise, via 1970s and 1980s revival evenings. Live music can be heard in intimate pubs or in the huge Murrayfield Stadium.

Some clubs may require smart dress and alcohol can normally be purchased until 2300. Certain pubs and bars may stay open until 0100, caf-bars and restaurants until 0300 and clubs until 0300 (until 0500 during the festival). The legal drinking age is 18. Drink prices vary enormously, depending on the venue – beer varies between 1.50 to 2.85 per pint.

Nightlife listings are provided in The List magazine (website: www.list.co.uk ), available in newsagents.

Bars: Some good traditional pubs are Bow Bar, 80 West Bow, and Caf Royal Circle Bar, 17 West Register Street. There are plenty of pubs lining Rose Street (a pedestrianised road behind Princes Street) and several worth exploring around Broughton Street and in Leith. Also worth trying is The Canny Man’s, 239 Morningside Road. More stylish places to hang out include the Magnum, 1 Albany Street, Monboddos in the Point Hotel, 34 Bread Street, the Malmaison Hotel Bar, 1 Tower Place, Leith, Ricks, Frederick Street, the Opal Lounge and the Candy Bar, both on George Street, and Indigo Yard, Charlotte Lane. Depending on your favourite tipple, go to the Malt Shovel, Cockburn Street, or The Bow Bar, The West Bow, Victoria Street, to sample whisky; the Cask and Barrel, 115 Broughton Street, for real ale, or Bar Kohl, 54 George IV Bridge, to work your way through the many vodkas on offer. A popular meeting place is All Bar One, George Street.

Casinos: The Berkeley Casino (tel: (0131) 228 4446), next to the Caledonian hotel, at the west end of Princes Street, and Gala Casino (tel: (0131) 338 4444), Maybury junction, 10 minutes from Edinburgh airport, both require membership, which takes 24 hours to clear. A passport or a driver’s licence is required for proof of age (over 18 years only). Dress code for both casinos is smart-casual – Gala does not allow blue jeans, sportswear or trainers.

Clubs: Edinburgh’s club scene is lively and clubs quickly fall in and out of fashion. The Honeycomb, Niddry Street, and Cabaret Voltaire, 36-38 Blair Street, are currently hip. The Cavendish, 3 West Tollcross, caters for an older crowd and specialises in roots and reggae with dedicated African and Latin nights. Po Na Na, 43B Frederick Street; Why Not? and Opal Lounge, both on George Street, and Peppermint Lounge, Chambers Street, are also popular.

Live Music: The Royal Oak, 1 Infirmary Street, is an unpretentious folk bar, while Sandy Bell’s, 25 Forest Road, also has informal folk sessions. Eighty Queen St, 80 Queen Street and Henry’s Jazz Cellar, 8 Morrison Street, both feature live jazz while Bannerman’s, 212 Cowgate, regularly features new bands. Whistlebinkies, 4-6 South Bridge, is a well established live music bar, with bands playing every night..

City Statistics

Location: Lothians, eastern Scotland, United Kingdom.
Country dialling code: 44.
Population: 448,850 (city), 783,600 (including Lothians).
Ethnic mix: Majority Scottish and English; minorities include Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Indian, Chinese, West Indian and African.
Religion: Church of Scotland majority, Presbyterian and Catholic faiths also represented.
Time zone: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3C (37.5F).
Average July temp: 14.5C (58F).
Annual rainfall: 480mm (18.5 inches).

Special Events

Six Nations Rugby (Scotland vs France), 21 Mar 2004, Murrayfield
Edinburgh International Science Festival, mid Apr, various venues
Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition, Apr-May, The Mound
Royal Highland Show, agricultural show, mid Jun, Royal Highland Show ground, Islington
Edinburgh International Jazz and Blues Festival, Jul-Aug, various venues
Edinburgh Military Tattoo, Aug, Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh International Festival, theatre festival, Aug, various venues
Edinburgh International Fringe Festival, fringe theatre festival, Aug, various venues
Edinburgh International Book Festival, Aug, Charlotte Square Gardens
Edinburgh International Film Festival, Aug, various venues
Edinburgh International TV Festival, Aug, various venues
Edinburgh International Folk Festival, Aug, various venues
The Age of Titian Exhibition, Aug-beginning of Dec 2004, The Mound
Hogmanay, New Year celebrations, 31 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 0.80
33cl bottle of beer: 1.40
Financial Times newspaper: 1
36-exposure colour film: 4.99
City-centre bus ticket: 0.80
Adult football ticket: 18-20
Three-course restaurant meal with wine/beer: 25

1 British Pound Sterling (1) = US$1.90; C$2.38; A$2.45; 1.48
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005