World City Guide

Mini Guide of Dubai

City Overview

It is difficult to believe that a century ago Dubai was little more than a desert-strewn wildscape where Bedouin tribes roamed the sands and a huddle of settlers crowded around the banks of the lifeblood creek. Even as Europe embarked on the mass industrial destruction of World War I, Dubai still had no running water, no real roads and the main mode of transport was the camel.

Dubai first grew as a hub on the ancient trading route between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley and, by the 19th century, a small fishing village had taken root on the Shindagha peninsula, at the mouth of Dubai Creek. The village was inhabited by the Bani Yas tribe, who were led by the Maktoum family, the dynasty that still presides over Dubai today. The city’s remarkable success story really began in the 1960s. During the process of shaking off the shackles of British colonial rule, oil was struck in 1966 and Dubai has never looked back. Since the 1960s, the population has increased tenfold to over a million people and now over 400 hotels welcome in the temporary ex-pat workers and tourists who help run the economy. Indeed, only 22% of the emirate’s population, at last count, were actually ethnically emirati in a population mixture that has to be one of the world’s most cosmopolitan. This diversity discourages any real ethnic tensions and while war and the threat of war might simmer further north, it creates far less tension in Dubai than many might imagine it would.

Dubai’s evolution has been dramatic, with sweeping skyscrapers and gleaming office blocks rising up on the banks of the Creek. Development has been well managed, with a structure and order to the city that demonstrates that the oil wealth has been well handled and channelled. The rulers of Dubai have a penchant for grand projects – one year a new extension to the port facilities, the next the world’s tallest purpose-built hotel and now the Palm Islands, a massive project that will bring 120km (75 miles) of new beachfront, through the creation of the world’s two largest manmade islands, as well as hotels, villas, shopping malls, cinemas and Dubai’s first marine park. Dubai seems to know no end to its ambition or have any inhibitions, with new plans constantly on the drawing board.

The US-led war against Saddam Hussein’s regime in Iraq in 2003 and regional instability has, however, put a major strain on the city and hit tourism, one of its most successful industries. Until 2003, more and more tourists were flocking to Dubai every year, which is unsurprising, considering the idyllic climate for much of the year, with constant sunshine and only and average of five days of rainfall. During summer, however, the heat is extreme, making trips away from air-conditioned vehicles and buildings unbearable.

The immediate future prospects of the emirate’s tourist industry and its economic situation as a whole seem certain to be governed by developments in the rest of the Middle East.

Getting There By Air

Dubai International Airport (DBX)
Tel: (04) 224 5555. Fax: (04) 224 4074.
Website: www.dubaiairport.com

Dubai International Airport, located five kilometres (three miles) southeast of the city centre, is the busiest airport in the Middle East, handling flights for over 80 airlines, flying to more than 130 destinations worldwide. Over 16 million passengers passed through the airport in 2002. There are two state-of-the-art terminals anf first-rate facilities. Despite the outbreak of war, the national carrier, Emirates Airlines, plans to press ahead with new flights to London and North America. A third terminal is planned for completion by 2006.

Major airlines: Emirates Airlines (tel: (04) 214 4444 or 800 4444; website: www.emirates.com) is the national airline. Gulf Air (tel: (04) 271 3222; website: www.gulfairco.com) is the regional airline. Emirates will have its own terminal by 2005 and the first of its new double-decker Airbus A380 'super-jumbos' is set to arrive in 2006. Other major airlines include: Air France, Air Ukraine, Alitalia, Cathay Pacific, Cyprus Airways, Czech Airlines, Ghana Airways, Gulf Air, Kenya Airways, Kuwait Airways, Lithuanian Airlines, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Olympic Airways, Oman Air, Qatar Airways, Turkish Airways and Yemen Airways. In 2002, British Airways introduced flat beds in both First Class and Club World, on the route from London.

Approximate flight times to Dubai: From London is 7 hours 45 minutes; from New York is 14 hours 50 minutes; from Los Angeles is 19 hours 55 minutes; from Toronto is 14 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 16 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include ATM, bureau de change, banking, post office, medical centre, pharmacy, cafs, restaurants, gym, health spa, executive lounges, left-luggage, duty-free shopping, tourist information bureau, smoking areas, children’s playrooms and car hire from Avis, Budget, Fast Rent a Car and Hertz.

Business facilities: There are two airport business centres. The Global Link Business Centre is located in the departure lounge, with facilities including six ISD booths, workstations with Internet connection and fax machines, as well as an around-the-clock secretarial service. The second business centre is located in the International Hotel, the Connect Business Centre (tel: (04) 216 4278; fax: (04) 224 5955) has five meeting rooms and a conference room for up to 60 delegates. Eight workstations include ISDN terminals and fax machines. Secretarial and office services support is offerred. There are a number of executive lounges in the airport, some offering excellent business facilities.

Arrival/departure tax: None.

Transport to the city: Dubai Municipality (tel: (800) 4848; website: www.dm.gov.ae) airport buses, with air conditioning and extra luggage space, leave for Al Subkha (route 401) and Al Ghubaiba (route 402) bus stations every 30 minutes daily 0600-2200 (journey time- 20 minutes) and cost Dh3. From the bus stations there are regular transfers to all parts of the city. Prepaid airport taxis must be booked in the arrival hall. These charge a fixed Dh30 for destinations in the city centre (journey time – 10 minutes). Otherwise, Dubai Transport taxis are available outside the arrivals terminal, with a hefty Dh20 initial charge.

Getting There By Water

Jebel Ali Port is located 30km (18.5 miles) to the south of the city centre. It is the world’s largest man-made port – over 120 shipping lines use the port and it has over 100 berths – but passenger services are limited and are not designed to cater for tourists. A port tax of Dh10 is levied on departures from the UAE. Dubai Port Authority (tel: (04) 881 5000; website: www.dpa.co.ae) provides further information. The new government-owned Dubai Cruise Terminal (website: http://dubaitourism.co.ae/www/discover/cruiseterminal.asp), which is capable of dealing with two liners at a time, opened at Port Rashid in March 2001, with over 50 visiting cruise liners in 2002. Facilities at the cruise terminal include reception check-in, an information centre, VIP lounge, a relaxation zone and caf, rest rooms, a big-screen entertainment centre, duty free, exhibits and an Arabian palm garden.

Ferry services: Ferry services operate to ports in Iran from Sharjah, although these are not recommended for tourists and timetables are erratic. Plans have been mooted for a more developed and comprehensive regional ferry service but these are very much on the back burner at present.

Transport to the city: The fare to Jebel Ali in a metered taxi will cost Dh60-70 (journey time – 20-30 minutes). The fare in a shared taxi to Al-Ghubaiba bus station costs Dh7. Dubai Cruise Terminal has its own taxi stand with taxis into Deira or Bur Dubai costing around Dh20-30.

Getting There By Road

The United Arab Emirates boasts an impressive network of first-class roads that connect major towns and villages, including a multi-lane highway between Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Highways and main roads in Dubai and the United Arab Emirates are designated by an Emirate Route Number. Driving in the UAE is on the right-hand side. Speed limits are clearly displayed on road signs and are usually 60-80kph (37-50mph) around town and 100-120kph (62-74mph) elsewhere. Seatbelts are compulsory and it is illegal to use handheld mobile phones while driving. Certain minor traffic offences incur on-the-spot fines. Drinking and driving is illegal and the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is zero. The police must be called to any road traffic accident – no matter how minor – and those involved in the accident must remain at the scene with their vehicles.

A valid International Driving Permit, a valid national licence and a passport are required to drive in Dubai. Visitors from many European, North American and Pan-Asian countries can obtain a temporary local driving licence if they do not have an international licence – a valid national licence, passport and two passport-sized photographs are required for applicants to obtain this. Drivers must be over 18 years old. Third party insurance is compulsory.

Arabian Automobile Association (tel: (04) 266 9989; fax: (04) 268 2646; website: www.aaa-uae.com) can provide further information.

Emergency breakdown service:
Arabian Automobile Association (800) 4900 (toll free)

Routes to the city: The main Emirate Route Numbers into Dubai are 77 from Jebel Ali, 88 from Sharjah, 44 from Wajajah, 66 from Al-Ain and 11 from Abu Dhabi.

Approximate driving times to Dubai: From Al-Ain – 1 hour 15 minutes; Abu Dhabi – 1 hour 30 minutes; Muscat – 4 hours.

Coach services: Two buses leave daily for Muscat in Oman, departing from the car park at the Airline Centre, Al-Maktoum Road, Deira (tel: (04) 203 3923), at 0730 and 1630. Tickets, costing Dh90 for a return, can be purchased from the driver or the Airline Centre. The Gold Souk Bus Station, off Al-Khor Street, and Al-Ghubaiba Bus Station, Al-Ghubaiba Road, are the main departure points for local and intercity services, which operate 0600-2300. Dubai Municipality (tel: (800) 4848; website: www.dm.gov.ae) can provide further information. There are also buses from Dubai to Jordan, Lebanon and Syria.

Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 264 1111; website: www.dubaitransport.gov.ae) operates minibus services to the main cities of the UAE, however, it is only possible for travellers to catch these once they are out of Dubai city.

Getting There By Rail

There are no railways in the United Arab Emirates, although there are plans for a public railway system. Construction is slated to start late in 2003, with a line to the airport first on the drawing board and later extensions as far as Abu Dhabi. However, these developments might take a back seat, due to the current geo-political situation.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The car is the most popular method of transport in Dubai. In addition, the major tourist hotels provide shuttle bus services for guests. However, Dubai Municipality (tel: (04) 285 9401 or 221 5555 or (800) 4848 (dedicated freephone information line); website: www.dm.gov.ae) operates a reasonable public bus service on 36 routes, daily 0600–2300. Adult fares are Dh1–3.50 depending on destination and are paid to the driver upon boarding; it is useful for travellers to have the exact change ready.

Three types of bus passes are available. Smart Cards give Dh22 worth of transport for Dh20, while monthly passes (called taufee) are available at a cost of Dh75, for journeys on one side of the creek (Red District is Deira and Yellow District is Bur Dubai), or Dh120, for unlimited travel within the whole city (Blue District). Passes, timetables and bus maps are available from the bus stations in Deira and Bur Dubai. Routes and bus numbers are posted in both Arabic and English.

Basic wooden boats, locally referred to as abras, cross the creek from Bur Dubai to the Textile Souk area in Deira. These are operated by Dubai Municipality daily 0600–2400 (journey time – 5 minutes) and are excellent value at Dh0.50. New rowing abras have been recently brought in as part of a conservation programme, running from Creek Park Station to the Public Library Station, with a one way fare of Dh1.

Taxis
Air-conditioned taxis can be hailed on the street or prebooked by telephone. Metered taxis, operated by the Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 264 1111), are distinguished by their cream colour and uniformed drivers. Occasionally, drivers do not have detailed knowledge of the city and might ask passengers for directions. For metered taxis, the pick-up fare is Dh3 (Dh3.50 between 2200 and 0600) and Dh4 for pre-booked metered taxis. The rate is then charged at Dh1.43 per kilometre. Fixed fares are applied to journeys outside the city boundaries. In non-metered taxis, the fare is generally Dh5 for short journeys and Dh10–15 for longer journeys within the city. It is also possible for one to rent a taxi for 12 hours, for a fixed fee of Dh500. Tipping is not expected.

Limousines
Limousines are offered by the main car hire companies (see Car Hire) and Dubai Transport Corporation (tel: (04) 264 1111). The fare from the airport into Deira or Bur Dubai is approximately Dh60, with daily hire from Dh1450.

Driving in the City
Dubai has an excellent and well-signposted road network and the majority of roads have two to four lanes. Unfortunately, driving standards do not match the quality of the roads. Many local drivers travel at speed and change lanes with wild abandon. In addition, drivers are prone to make sudden and dangerous manoeuvres. Accidents occur frequently and visitors are advised to drive defensively. Outside the city centre, signposts are rare, making a good road map essential, to avoid heading aimlessly out into the desert. Increasingly traffic congestion is also a problem, particularly in Deira and along Jumeirah Beach. Drivers should note that there is a Dh20 tax to pay for driving out of the UAE.

Car parks are operated by Dubai Municipality (tel: (800) 4848; website: www.dm.gov.ae) and cost Dh2 per hour. Two centrally located covered car parks are situated near the Spice Souk and Bani Yas Square in Deira.

Car Hire
A valid International Driving Permit, passport and credit card are required for one to hire a car in Dubai. Visitors from many European, North American and many Asian countries can obtain a temporary local driving licence if they do not have an international licence. A valid national licence, passport and two passport-sized photographs are required in order to do this. Fully comprehensive insurance is essential. In the event of an accident, the police must be informed and a written police report obtained, otherwise the hire company’s insurance might not cover any damage. Drivers must be at least 21 years old and have held a full licence for one year. The age limit is often raised to 25 years, for more expensive models. Payment must be made by credit card.

Major providers include Avis (tel: (04) 295 9899; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (04) 282 3030; website: www.budgetrentacar.com), Europcar (tel: (04) 352 0033; website: www.europcar.com) and Fast Rent a Car (tel: (04) 224 5040). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from Dh125 per day and Dh810 per week. Collision damage waiver is sometimes additional at Dh20 per day.

Bicycle Hire
Considering the desert environment, Dubai is not a cyclist’s paradise and bicycle hire is not a roaring trade in the city. Nevertheless, some hotels hire out bicycles. Whether or not they will hire them to non-guests varies.

Business

Business Profile
Business Profile Any recovery from shock waves of the terrorist attacks of 11 September 2001 has been put back in many respects by the US-led war on Saddam Hussein’s regime in Iraq in 2003. In recent years, Dubai has been increasingly using tourism as one way of decreasing its reliance on oil revenue, which now only accounts for 10% of the economy. Tourist numbers have been rising impressively over the last decade, with especially strong growth in the European market. Britain and Ireland combined make up the largest visitor numbers, enjoying a 27.8% growth in numbers to 454,378 in 2002. A recent World Tourism Organisation report stated that Dubai experienced the world’s highest growth rate of international visitors in 2002, at 31.1%. Spin-off industries also benefit from tourism, such as retail, with Dubai Duty Free announcing a record annual turnover of Dh1.1 billion in 2002, a 23% increase on the previous year. In January 2003, average room occupancy was riding at 89%, up 13% on the same period in 2002, although the 2003 war has hit the industry. As the second richest of the emirates, after Abu Dhabi, Dubai has one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. Unemployment is still at an official rate of zero. The unemployment rate for the UAE is considerably higher, at 12%.

The city’s main exports are crude oil, natural gas, re-exports, dried fish and dates. Oil itself plays a surprisingly small part in the emirate’s economic picture, with the 10% proportion of the economy a figure that the government hopes can be encouraged to fall further. Other sectors that are decreasing in economic importance are traditional small-scale industries, such as fishing, boat building, handicrafts and pearling, which now only make up a fraction of economic activity. Today, the main emerging industries are international trade, manufacturing, finance and other service-based industries. Dubai has always proved competitive in attracting inward investment, with the ‘offshore’ Jebel Ali Free Zone (JAFZA) one of the most spectacular success stories. The success of current massive projects, like the Palm Islands, depends as much on the regional geo-political situation over the coming months as it does on how well they have been planned and constructed. Residential plots have been snapped up on these man-made islands but interest from hoteliers has been more cautious.
The main business district in Dubai is around the World Trade Centre, on Sheikh Zayed Road. The Emirates Towers, as the tallest buildings in the Middle East, are one of the business hubs of the city. The focus looks set to shift in part to the new Dubai International Convention Centre (DICC), completed in time for the IMF and World Bank Conference in May 2003. Other major planned infrastructure developments include a revamped Port Rashid container port, the completion of a massive marina in Jumeirah and a new bridge over Dubai Creek.

Multinational companies and international organisations based in Dubai include Sony, Heinz, AT&T, Shell, IBM and General Motors. Etisalat is the only provider of Internet services within Dubai, exercising heavy control, with all sites accessed and monitored through the company’s proxy server. The Dubai Chamber of Commerce (tel: (04) 228 0000; website: www.dcci.org) is often helpful for foreign businesspeople.

Business Etiquette
It is a major faux pas to break certain conventions when doing business in Dubai. Smart conservative clothing is expected, despite the often soaring heat. Meetings could start late, since this is not frowned upon in Dubai and it should not be commented on. The Arabic handshake involves touching the heart with the palm of the right hand after each shake, although visitors should note that when greeting Arab women they should not offer their hand unless the woman extends hers first. The terms ‘Sayed’ (Mr) or ‘Sayeda’ (Mrs), followed by the first name, should be used in greeting, to ensure politeness. It is also very important for visitors never to sit in such a way that their feet are pointing directly at someone else. Causing someone else to lose face, whether a client or colleague, is considered extremely offensive and any criticism or corrections should be kept for private discussions afterwards.
Meetings tend to start with plenty of preliminary chatting before moving onto the serious work, so it is essential for visitors not to rush in. Business meetings in Dubai are often seemingly casual affairs, in cafs or restaurants, although it is easy to be caught off guard, as the pace tends to quicken rapidly and deals are struck in a fraction of the time it can take in Western Europe. Friday is considered a day of prayer and rest, so meetings should not be scheduled for this day. Calls to Arab people should also be avoided on this day. Similarly, local people will not answer the telephone during siestas, which are usually taken between 1400 and 1700. Business hours are Saturday to Wednesday 0800–1300 and 1600–1900. Businesses run by Western staff might open Sunday to Thursday 0800–1700. Business socialising in Dubai can be quite formal. Lunch meetings are more common than evening meetings and visitors should note that sometimes business meals will be served at venues that do not serve alcohol. Asking for it may cause embarrassment and even insult.

With tensions high in the Middle East, visitors are strongly advised not to bring up political matters and, if prompted, to veer on the side of caution, not assuming any common beliefs or opinions.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Sightseeing Overview
Dubai is not a destination that it is easy to explore on foot, with many of the areas of interest, such as Deira and Jumeirah Beach, situated far apart. Sightseeing within the city centre is split mainly between the Deira and Bur Dubai flanks of Dubai Creek. Deira, on the right bank of the waterway, is the business and commercial heart of the city and is also home to the best shopping. Highlights include the myriad souks, including the Spice Souk, Deira Old Souk and Dubai Covered Souk. Deira is also the most atmospheric part of Dubai for a spot of aimless wandering, with a real sense of manic activity and rambling streets that are in sharp contrast to the order and calm of much of the city. Meanwhile, historic Bur Dubai has less of a bustling atmosphere and is home to a number of tourist attractions, including the Dubai Museum, Grand Mosque and Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House.
Dubai Creek itself is also something of an attraction, whether visitors choose to take the traditional dhow cruises along its length or just to stroll along its banks on the promenade on the Bur Dubai side. From here, there are good views back towards the ultra-modern skyline on the other flank of the Creek. Breaking away, west from the mouth of Dubai Creek, is Jumeirah Beach, not really one beach as such but rather a sweeping strip of sand fringed by the bath temperature waters of the Arabian Gulf. Much of the beach these days is officially the private preserve of the ever increasing string of beach-side luxury hotels, although there is little to stop people wandering where they want to, once on the sand. Many of Dubai’s best hotels are located on or nearby Jumeirah Beach, including the unmistakable hulk of the Burj al Arab (or ‘Arab Tower’), as well as leisure facilities like Wild Wadi Water Park and the more traditional attraction of Jumeirah Mosque, which is regarded by both locals and tourists alike as the most charming mosque in Dubai. One new attraction that visitors can see clearly taking shape off Jumeirah Beach are the Palm Islands, the twin islands that are set to become the new focus of the city.

Away from the city itself, further adventures await in the deserts and mountains, with wadi bashing and dune bashing jeep safaris in the mountains and deserts of Dubai both becoming increasingly popular. Further excursions can be made into the neighbouring emirates and Oman.

Tourist Information
Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DTCM) Welcome Bureau
Beni Yas Square, Deira
Tel: (04) 228 5000. Fax: (04) 228 0011.
E-mail: info@dubaitourism.co.ae
Website: www.dubaitourism.co.ae
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2300.

The DTCM has two other Welcome Bureaux located at the airport and 40km (25 miles) out of town, on the Sheik Zayed Road to Abu Dhabi.

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available in Dubai.

Key Attractions

Bastakiya
In the days before electricity and air conditioning, Dubai Creek used to be lined by a mass of wind towers that kept the local houses cool. The Bastakiya district is a step back in time, laden as it is with traditional courtyard houses, bedecked with these wind towers. The Bastakiya area is currently closed for major renovation, with improved visitor facilities planned for its transformation into a 'tourist village'.

East of Dubai Souk on Al-Fahidi Street
Transport: Bus 19 or abra to Bur Dubai.

Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House
Sheikh Saeed Al-Maktoum’s House is one of the oldest houses in the city, as well as one of the best examples of traditional architecture. Built from sandstone, in 1896, the house offers sweeping views out towards the sea – although the view has been slightly obscured by recent development. The one-time ruler of Dubai used the house to monitor trade in and out of the country. The house was reopened as a museum in 1986; it also contains an exhibition illuminating Dubai’s development from the 1940s to the late 1960s.

Near Al-Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road
Tel: (04) 393 7139.
Transport: Bus 8, 16, 19 or 20.
Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0830-1930 and Fri 1330-1930.
Admission: Dh2.

Jumeirah Mosque
The Jumeirah Mosque is the most photographed building in the city and an impressive example of modern Islamic architecture. Built along medieval Fatimid lines, entirely of stone, the mosque and its two minarets are unmistakable. It is particularly attractive at night, when subtle lighting increases its dramatic effect. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Dubai, although they can enter this one if on an organised tour. Visitors should call the tourist office to check if these are available.

Al-Jumeirah Road
Transport: Bus 8 or 20.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; access to non-Muslims through organised tours only.
Admission: Free.

Grand Mosque
The Grand Mosque was only rebuilt in 1998 and boasts the city’s tallest minaret, at 70m (231ft). Located on the Bur Dubai side of the creek, near the Ruler’s Court, the Grand Mosque consists of nine large domes and 45 smaller ones. This huge religious edifice can house up to 1200 worshippers.

Ali ibin Ali Talib Street
Transport: Bus 19.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; entrance to non-Muslims is forbidden.
Admission: Free.

Souks (markets)
The souks, or traditional markets, are one of Dubai’s greatest attractions. They are located on both sides of the creek, with the most impressive on the Deira side. The highlight is the colourful Spice Market, which abounds with exotic aromas and bustles with locals seeking bargains. Wandering around the atmospheric souks is a good way for visitors to get in touch with how life was in Dubai, before oil was discovered.

Deira Covered Souk, Al-Sabkha Road
Deira Old Souk or Spice Souk, 67 Street
Deira Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street
Perfume Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street
Electronics Souk, Al-Sabkha Road and Al-Maktoum Hospital Road
Dubai Souk, Bur Dubai
Transport: Bus 5, 16, 19 or 20 all drop off at souks in both Bur Dubai and Deira.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1200 and 1700-1900; Fri 1700-1900.
Admission: Free.

Children’s City
Opened in March 2002, at Dubai Creekside Park, Children’s City is proving a big hit with both local and international youngsters. The 7700sq-metre (82,882sq-ft) development takes young minds on a journey through the human body, science and space, with the help of different ‘zones’. With plenty of hands-on action to keep even the most demanding children occupied, this is no dull old museum. All exhibits are in English as well as Arabic.

Creekside Park
Tel: (04) 334 0808.
Website: www.childrencity.ae
Transport: Bus 19.
Opening hours: Sat-Thu 0900-2200, Fri 1600-2200.
Admission: Dh15; Dh10 (children under-16); family concessions available.

Dubai Museum
The building that houses the Dubai Museum, Al-Fahidi Fort, is an attraction in itself. The historic fort, dating back as far as 1799, was converted into a museum, in 1970. The exhibits range from old weapons and pearl-diving outfits to an impressive range of military artefacts. Some of the most fascinating exhibits are those recovered from the 3000 to 4000-year-old graves at Al-Ghusais.

Al-Fahidi Road
Tel: (04) 353 1862.
Transport: Bus 19.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1930.
Admission: Dh3.

Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef
At the Majlis Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, it is possible to delve into the opulent world of the moneyed men of Dubai. The late ruler of Dubai, Ghorfat Um-Al-Sheef, used this building as his ‘home from home’ but it is now open to the public. The building dates back to 1955 and its most impressive feature are the majlis gardens, which include a reproduction of a traditional Arab irrigation system.

17 Street, off Al-Jumeirah Road
Tel: (04) 394 6343.
Transport: Bus 8.
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1430 and 1630-2100.
Admission: Dh1.

Heritage Village
The Heritage Village is an attempt to weave in some local colour among Dubai’s rapidly developing 21st-century skyline. The emphasis is on recreating the Bedouin way of life, with locals dressed in traditional garb, displays of traditional handicrafts, song and dance. Local handicrafts are also available for purchase. There is also a small section for children, with a smattering of things to keep young visitor's occupied.

Near Shindagha Tunnel, Al-Shindagha Road
Tel: (04) 393 7151.
Transport: Bus 8, 16, 19 or 20.
Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-2200 and Fri 1600-2200.
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Encounter Zone
Tucked away on the third floor of the Wafi Shopping Centre, the state-of-the-art Encounter Zone entertainment centre is a playground for people of all ages. The most popular attractions are the Crystal Maze, the horror chamber and the range of 3D films. The emphasis is on fun, fun and more fun, with both kids and big kids enjoying attractions, such as the virtual reality rollercoaster and the myriad arcade games.

Wafi Shopping Centre
Tel: (04) 324 7747.
Transport: Bus 14, 16 or 44.
Opening hours: Sat-Tues 1000-2300, Wed-Thurs 1000-2400.
Admission: Free.

Jumeirah Beach
Much of the long expanse of Jumeirah Beach is dominated by luxury hotels and their facilities. However, there is a stretch of public beach available, with clean white sand, crystal clear seawater and bath-temperature surf. Some of the hotels allow non-guests to use their pools and stretches of beach if they buy lunch or pay a nominal fee.

Al-Jumeirah Road, next to Marine Beach Resort
Transport: Bus 8 or 20.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Dubai is a sprawling city that can be difficult to walk around and there are no official guided or signposted tours. However, a self-guided stroll around the older central parts of Deira and Bur Dubai is a great way of discovering the delights of the city, exploring its traditional souks or stumbling across hidden mosques or wind towers.

Bus Tours
A number of companies offer half-day city tours, including Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Net Tours Dubai (tel: (04) 226 8661; website: www.nettoursdubai.com). Tours vary depending on the operator but most go to the old and new Dubai souks, Jumeirah Mosque, the thriving commercial area and include a creek crossing by abra (local water taxi). Prices start at Dh110. Another option is to see Dubai by night. Post-tour dinner in one of Dubai’s many restaurants is usually a feature of the night-time tours, which also incorporate the mosques, palaces and souks. The tours operate a very organised system, with pick-up at all main hotels.

Boat Tours
Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888, website: www.arabian-adventures.com) offers a variety of cruises on Dubai Creek, with prices starting at Dh150 for a half-day adventure aboard a 20m (65ft) schooner, which sets off onto the Arabian Gulf from the International Marine Club. Other Arabian Adventure cruises depart from the Sheik Zayed Road, next to the Metropolitan Resort and Beach Club. Alpha Tours (tel: (04) 294 9888; website: www.alphatoursdubai.com) operates evening dhow dinner cruises, which take two hours and cost Dh230. Alternatively, tourists should go down to Dubai Creek and charter a traditional abra (water taxi), which costs Dh40-60 for a short river tour lasting 60-90 minutes. The length of the tour and the price should be agreed in advance. Otherwise, visitors can just ride one across the creek to the other side (journey time – 5 minutes) for Dh0.50.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Dune bashing: An increasingly popular activity is dune bashing, which involves tourists being driven out into the surrounding desert sand dunes in a 4X4 and thrashing up and down the dunes. Visitors should not hire their own vehicles, as desert driving can be dangerous for the inexperienced. Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888, website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Alpha Tours (tel: (04) 294 9888; website: www.alphatoursdubai.com) both run regular tours and can combine dune bashing with desert dinners in recreated Bedouin camps. Prices start at Dh235, including dinner.

Camel rides: Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) operates a ‘Rides and Slides’ tour combining camel rides with sand skiing. Rides on the original ‘ships of the desert’ offer a totally different perspective on Dubai’s desert landscapes. A half-hour journey in a traditional caravan introduces tourists to Dubai’s traditional way of life, before throwing them back into the 21st century with the exhilarating new sport of sand skiing. The half-day tour costs Dh195, available Monday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

For a Whole Day

Hajar Mountains: The Hajar Mountains, located 100km (62 miles) south of Dubai city, run along the border with Oman. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are the best way to explore the rugged mountainous terrain. Highlights are the wadis (rock pools), which offer the chance to cool off, and the hill town of Hatta, which has been recreated along traditional lines, in a mountain oasis. Arabian Adventures (tel: (04) 303 4888; website: www.arabian-adventures.com) and Alpha Tours (tel: (04) 294 9888; website: www.alphatoursdubai.com) both offer tours to this region, with prices starting at Dh275.

Sharjah: Some dismiss the neighbouring emirate of Sharjah as being too industrial and not as glamorous as Dubai. But for those with spare time in Dubai, Sharjah has much to recommend it. Sharjah is located 20km (12 miles) east of Dubai and making a trip there is easy, with regular minibus services. Taxis are perhaps a better idea, as it can be difficult for one to get a return minibus from Sharjah. This emirate is marginally less developed than Dubai, with a string of more cerebral attractions that are mainly located in its Heritage District. These include Literature Square with its House of Poetry, Bait al-Gharbi cultural centre, as well as the Sharjah Heritage and Islamic museums. Outside this quarter there is also an Arts Museum and Al-Hisn Fort, a museum that sheds light on the history of Sharjah and shows how, like Dubai, Sharjah has comes a long way in a very short time. Further information on Sharjah is available from the local tourist office (tel: (06) 556 2777; fax: (06) 556 3000; website: www.sharjah-welcome.com).

Sport

Sport is very popular in Dubai. As the city is home to few international sporting stars or teams, the trend is to bring in overseas teams to play in glamour friendlies and also to stage major sporting events, with lucrative prize money to attract the big-name stars. In 2003,k the regional political tension impacted on sports, with big names like Tiger Woods and Colin Montgomerie pulling out of the PGA Dubai Desert Golf Classic (tel: (04) 347 4050; fax: (04) 295 6026; website: www.dubaidesertclassic.com), held in February every year. The Dubai International Rugby Sevens (tel: (04) 333 1198; website: www.dubairugby7s.com) is an event usually held at the Dubai Exiles Rugby Club, near Dubai Country Club, Al-Awir Road (tel: (04) 333 1198), in December. The Dubai Open Tennis Championship is held in February, at the Dubai Tennis Stadium, Dubai Aviation Club, Al-Garhoud (tel: (04) 316 6969; website: www.dubaitennischampionships.com).

Horseracing is also very popular among Dubai's moneyed men, who are not content to idly watch and instead opt to buy and race a few horses. The Dubai World Cup (tel: (04) 332 2277; website: www.dubaiworldcup.com), organised by the Dubai Racing Club, Nadal-Sheba (tel: (04) 332 9888), in March, is now the world's richest horseracing event with US$15 million in prize money. A more traditional event is the annual Emirates Championship Cup, a 130km (80-mile) endurance horserace through the shifting sands of the desert. Grand sporting projects currently under development include the new Dubai Cricket Stadium and the rather unlikely sounding but very characteristic-of-the-city Dubai Ski Resort.

There is no umbrella ticketing organisation in Dubai and tourists wishing to buy tickets for sporting events can often get this organised through their hotels.

Fitness centres: All the luxury hotels offer impressive leisure facilities. Some provide the unusual option of coaching from ex-Soviet Union Olympiads, who have flocked in droves from the economically bankrupt ex-Soviet states to work in Dubai. There are also private leisure clubs geared towards the ex-pat community throughout the city. Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road (tel: (04) 346 1111; website: www.dxbmarine.com), boasts floodlit tennis courts, two outdoor pools, a children's pool, squash courts, gymnasium and a health spa with public access during the evening. Le Mirage Health & Leisure Club, Le Meridien Jumeirah Hotel, Jumeirah Beach (tel: (04) 702 2430) accepts non-members for a fee of Dh55.

Golf: For a nation dominated by so much desert, Dubai somewhat surprisingly has a number of top-quality grass golf courses. Emirates Golf Club, Junction 5, Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 347 3222), was the Middle East's first championship grass course, when it opened. Rounds are available for non-members at off-peak times. Green fees are Dh370-425. Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club, Al-Garhoud Road (tel: (04) 295 6000), is currently host to the Dubai Desert PGA Classic and welcomes guests on a pay-and-play basis. Green fees are from Dh370. Dubai Golf and Racing Club, Nad al-Shiba Road (tel: (04) 336 3666), boasts a Scottish-style links floodlit grass course with green fees for non-members at Dh240-300. The Montgomerie, Emirates Hills, off Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 399 9955, website: www.themontgomerie.com), designed by renowned Scottish golfer Colin Montgomerie, opened in 2002 and charges Dh550 per round. Non members are welcome. It is important for golfing visitors to note that all golf courses in Dubai are spike-free.

Swimming: The four-hectare (12-acre) Wild Wadi Waterpark is part of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel complex, Al-Jumeriah Road (tel: (04) 348 4444; website: www.jumeirah-beach.com). This is a paradise for kids and big kids alike, with a thrilling array of 24 interconnected water rides, including the terrifying 'Jumeirah Sceirah', which hurtles the foolhardy at speeds of up to 80kph (50mph). All-day admission is Dh95 for adults and Dh75 for children. Reduced rate 'Sundowner' admission is available after 1600. Most hotel pools are open to the public for Dh25-50.

Tennis: There are a number of tennis clubs that are open to the public. The Aviation Club, Al-Garhoud Road (tel: (04) 282 4122), has public courts, as does the Dubai Tennis Academy, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Al-Jumeriah Road (tel: (04) 406 8811). Many of Dubai's hotels also offer tennis facilities.

Watersports: The Arabian Gulf offers a wide range of watersports opportunities. Jet-skiing is available at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Umm Suqeim Road (tel: (04) 348 0000), for approximately Dh100 per half hour, water-skiing is available at most of the Jumeirah Beach hotels and scuba diving can be organised with Al-Boom Diving, Al-Wasl Road (tel: (04) 342 2993), or Scuba International, Diving Village, Schindagha (tel: (04) 393 7557).

Shopping

With good reason, Dubai is regarded as the ‘Shopping Capital of the Middle East’ and increasingly dedicated fans of retail are regarding the emirate as a top-class shopping destination. Shopping is undoubtedly one of the city’s greatest draw cards. It is largely divided into two main types – the old souks in Deira and Dubai Souk in Bur Dubai, and the glossy new shopping malls around Beniyas Square, Al-Rigga and Al-Hiyafa Road. New shops and malls seem to pop up every other month, to cater for the seemingly insatiable desire for retail therapy. The airport is also a shopping paradise, with excellent duty-free facilities.

The souks (see Key Attractions) offer an atmospheric shopping experience with sights, sounds and aromas that hint of yesteryear. The Spice Souk, Al-Sabkha Road, is more of a tourist attraction, while the buzzing Gold Souk, Sikkat al-Khali Street, offers some great deals on gold necklaces, rings, bangles, earrings and brooches, with gold prices among the lowest in the world. The gold souks are strictly regulated, so there is little chance of customers being ripped off in terms of quality, although prices do vary greatly and bargaining is essential. The Fish Souk in Deira is more of a tourist attraction, as visitors are unlikely to want to take fresh fish home with them. Early in the morning and late at night, local fishermen unload mountains of fresh fish, which they bargain and haggle over. The Electronics Souk, near Beniyas Square, might sound a slightly incongruous idea but this is Dubai, which means that, with shopping, anything goes. Bargaining is the norm in all of the souks, which are generally open daily, 0700–1200 and 1700–1900 (closed Friday morning).

The best-value items at the large shopping malls are mainly electrical goods and designer clothing, although interesting local products include carpets, Bedouin jewellery and Arabian souvenirs. The Dubai Shopping Festival, held from January to February, and Dubai Summer Surprises, held in July and August, are two massive attractions, with all the big stores and almost every shop in Dubai slashing prices in a retail orgy. Other festivals and special promotions run throughout the year, which further enhance Dubai’s myriad retail opportunities.

Dubai’s shops are open 0800–1300 and 1630–2000/2100. Many shops are closed on Friday. Larger malls are open 1000–2200. Shops, malls and souks are all closed on Friday mornings. There is no sales tax in Dubai and the airport is renowned for having one of the finest duty-free opportunities in the world. This is open to both arriving and departing passengers.

Culture

Dubai’s cultural life comes in a distant third to making money and having fun, with cultural activities – where they are available at all – limited in scale. Dubai’s cultural life has always suffered from not having a major venue for cultural performances, although the Dubai Community Theatre (website: www.dubaitheatre.org) is in the planning stages. With such a small population, there are no major indigenous orchestras or dance companies, although it is possible to find localised groups who occasionally put on public performances. A relative hive of cultural activity is the Creative Art Centre, Al-Jumeirah Road (tel: (04) 344 4394; website: www.arabian-arts.com), which runs from Saturday to Wednesday. Mornings are reserved for young children, afternoons for older children and, during winter, evenings are set aside for adult classes. A wide range of cultural and handicraft activities are covered. The Dubai International Arts Centre, off Al-Jumeirah Road (tel: (04) 344 4398), offers a similar range, as well as art displays, with works for sale. Visiting international acts occasionally spice up the music scene.

The monthly Time Out magazine, which can be found in many hotels, provides information on events and performances in Dubai. Time Out also sells tickets for events (tel: (800) 4669; website: www.itp.net/tickets).

Music: Opportunities to hear classical music performed in Dubai are extremely limited. The Dubai International Congress Centre, Dubai World Trade Centre, Bur Dubai (tel: (04) 331 4200; website: www.dwtc.com), and The Crowne Plaza Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road (tel: (04) 331 1111), are the main venues that host visiting orchestras and musicians from around the world, although performances are far from regular. Many hotels employ a pianist to spice up the lobby, which is often as near to classical music as Dubai gets. Arabic nightclubs (see Dance) are the main venues for traditional Arabian music.

Theatre: The Indian Playhouse, Intercontinental Hotel (tel: (04) 222 7171), features performances by Burjor Patel Productions and hosts the travelling British Airways Playhouse, which makes frequent visits to Dubai. Dubai Drama Group (tel: (04) 333 1155; website: www.dubaidramagroup.org) is an amateur theatrical company with over 100 members. The British Touring Shakespeare Company (website: www.britishtouringshakespeare.co.uk) also frequently visits the emirate. Dubai’s first purpose-built Community Theatre is still in the fundraising and planning stages.

Dance: There are no real dance companies in Dubai, although there are a number of dance schools, including the renowned Ballet Centre, behind Jumeirah Plaza (tel: (04) 344 9776), with ballet, jazz, tap and modern dance on offer. In addition, belly dancing and traditional dance are a mainstay in Arabic nightclubs, such as Al-Diwan, Metropolitan Palace Hotel (tel: (04) 227 0000), and Escoba, Al-Khaleej Palace Hotel (tel: (04) 223 1000).

Film: Going to the cinema is a very popular pastime in Dubai. There are a number of cinemas for one to choose from, including Al Massa Bustan, Al Bustan Centre (tel: (04) 263 3444; website: www.al.bustan.com), and Frand Cineplex, adjacent to Wafi City (tel: (04) 324 0000), which provide English-language films. The programmes are currently full of big-budget Hollywood films with little arthouse content.

Cultural events: Dubai’s dominant culture is founded around the Muslim religion, with most of the main cultural events being deeply religious, with little opportunity for tourists to participate. The year’s major event is the month-long fasting of Ramadan, a Muslim celebration of the truth of the Holy Koran, which takes place in the month of Ramadan. Directly following Ramadan is Eid Al-Fitr, a three-day celebration in December. Eid Al-Adha is the four-day festival in that follows the main pilgrimage to Mecca (the Haj), celebrated in the Muslim month of Dhulhajj.

On a less spiritual note, Dubai Summer Surprises is an attempt to attract more visitors during the slump summer months, from June through to August, with a wide range of cultural events – including henna tattoo painting and traditional handicraft making – in many of the city’s shopping malls and big hotels. UAE Day, 2 December, is a public holiday celebrated in all of the seven emirates and increasingly is becoming a cultural event.

Literary Notes
To get right to the heart of Dubai, Graeme Wilson’s Father of Dubai: Sheik Rashid Bin Saeed al Maktoum (1999) is a detailed tribute to the founder of Dubai. Arabia Through the Looking Glass (1979), by Jonathan Raban, covers the region as a whole but also has an illuminating section on Dubai. A local perspective comes from the English translation of Muhammad al-Murr’s Dubai Tales (1991), with his famed short stories fleshing a bit of colour into the place. Muhammed al-Murr is one of the most revered local writers and it is worthwhile trying to get a copy of his other famous book, The Wink of the Mona Lisa (1994). A good pictorial look at Dubai is Ronald Codrai’s mid-20th-century Dubai – An Arabian Album (1992). Kevin Higgins’ The Emirates (1995) is a look at all of the United Arab Emirates and puts Dubai in clear context, while William Facey and Gillian Grant’s The Emirates by the First Photographers (2002) shows the sheer scale of change in Dubai and the other emirates, over the last century. An insight into the machinations and ambitions of Dubai’s ruling family comes through Jason Levin’s From the Desert to the Derby (2002), a look at their attempt to train a horse to win America’s richest horse race.

Nightlife

Drinking a pint of beer could land you in prison in some parts of the Middle East, however, in Dubai, alcohol is tolerated, with non-Muslims allowed to imbibe alcohol in the city's bars, restaurants, clubs and hotels Indeed, it is easy to forget all about the local attitudes to alcohol when on a wild night out in a city whose nightlife is increasingly nefarious. Although non-Muslims are the only people officially allowed to drink, often you can find Dubai Arabs enjoying a pint in one of the many bars.

There are no specific nightlife districts as many of the best bars are in the big tourist hotels, which are situated throughout the city. Many of these are open until 0100 or 0200. A cheaper and livelier option is the independent bars that are dotted around town. Happy hours are common, with Thursday and Saturday the biggest nights for going out. Tuesdays and Sundays are often ‘Ladies Night’, with female revellers receiving free drinks. A beer is generally in the region of Dh15-20. The legal drinking age is 21. Licensing hours vary greatly, as many of the hotel bars are allowed to open and close whenever they want. Closing time is normally around 0100 or 0200.

The club scene is a curious one, with nightclubs often delineated along ethnic and national lines. Increasingly, big name DJs are being attracted to Dubai, as a Western-style clubbing scene starts to develop. By law, clubs must close at 0300. Many clubs are over-25 only. Dress codes for bars are generally relaxed, although some bars and all clubs insist on no jeans, trainers or sandals. A more mellow night out can be had at one of Dubai’s coffee houses, where you can smoke apple-flavoured tobacco from a shisha pipe.

The monthly listing magazine, Time Out (www.timeout.com), can be found in many hotels, offering a full rundown of what is happening at night in Dubai. Hotel concierges are also often able to provide guests with the latest nightlife information.

Bars: One of the oldest ex-pat bars, The Irish Village, Aviation Club, off Al-Garhoud Road, is still going strong, with a good range of beers and an outdoor seating area. It faces stiff competition from more recent arrivals, such as Carter’s, The Pyramids, Wafi Centre, a stylish haunt of the 20- and 30-something brigade. Monday night happy hour is something of a local institution, with all cocktails priced at Dh10. Even more stylish is the minimalist Ginseng, Wafi City, with its mood lighting, Asian themed decor and first-rate cocktails. The lowest common denominator is catered for at Rock Bottom, Regent Place Hotel, Bur Dubai, a rowdy drinking den with three pool tables, live music and a dancefloor. A new favourite of Dubai’s ‘beautiful people’ is the swish Sho Cho, Dubai Marina Resort, Jumeirah Beach Road, a bar cum restaurant with a real buzz, live DJs, great cocktails and an outdoor jetty for special parties. The Fatafeet Caf, Alseef Road, has good views of Dubai Creek and is an atmospheric coffee house in which to try a traditional shisha.

Casinos: Dubai adheres to the Muslim ban on gambling and there are no casinos in Dubai.

Clubs: The most popular nightclub in Dubai, housed in the most genuine London-style club venue, is Planetarium, Planet Hollywood, Wafi City. Since the closure of the legendary Lodge, this has been the main venue for clubbers to head for. It also recently celebrated its third birthday. Planetarium is the most likely place in town to attract the big-name international DJs. Scream, Ramada Hotel, Al-Mankhool Road, is a warehouse-type venue that blasts out the latest techno to an appreciative crowd. Pancho Villa’s, Astoria Hotel, Al-Nahda Street, has become a bit of an institution on the Dubai club scene, with a mainstream choice of music, a restaurant and frequent live bands. Amnesia, Dubai Park Hotel, Sheik Zayed Road, is becoming more and more popular, especially with its 'Ladies Night' on Thursday.

Live music: Planet Hollywood, Wafi Pyramids, off Al-Qataiyat Road, is a reliable option, with an eclectic selection of mediocre to good bands and covers outfits. Bordertown, Al-Rolla Road, is a Mexican theme bar that stages live bands most nights of the week. The current en vogue music in Dubai is retro throwbacks to the 1970s and 1980s, with stars that are considered washed up in the rest of the world – such as the Human League, Kajagoogoo and Kim Wilde – regularly trooping into Dubai. The Irish Village, Aviation Club, off Al Garhoud Road, also hosts many live acts.

City Statistics

Location: Southern shore of the Arabian Gulf, northeastern United Arab Emirates.
Country dialling code: 971.
Population: 1,040,000.
Ethnic mix: 60% Indian, Pakistani and Filipino, 25% Emirates, 12% Arab and 3% Western ex-pats.
Religion: 57% Muslim, 20% Hindu, 20% Roman Catholic and 3% other.
Time zone: GMT + 4.
Electricity: 220 or 240 volts AC, 50Hz; square three-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 24C (75F).
Average July temp: 41C (106F).
Annual rainfall: 300mm (11.8 inches).

Special Events

Shopping Festival, sales and slashed prices, Jan-Feb, various shops throughout the city
Dog Show, the only show of its kind in the Middle East and a popular family day out, Feb, Dubai Golf and Racing Club
Dubai Tennis Championships, Feb, Dubai Tennis Stadium
Eid Al-Adha, four-day festival following the main pilgrimage to Mecca, Dhulhajj (Jan until 2006), throughout the city
Al-Hijra (Islamic New Year), Muharram (Feb until 2006), throughout the city
Dubai Summer Surprises, summer festival aimed at shoppers and also at children, Jun-Aug, various venues
Dubai Raft Race, teams battle it out from their multicoloured rafts, while spectators revel in the carnival atmosphere on land, Oct, Al-Mina Al-Siyahi
Ramadan, during the month of Muslim fasting, bars and pubs close and restaurants stop serving alcohol and even non-Muslims must not eat, drink or smoke on the street, Ramadan (Oct until 2006), throughout the city
UAE Desert Challenge, the first stage of this high-profile motor sport event usually kicks off in style in Dubai, Nov, routes vary
Eid Al-Fitr, three-day festival, end of Ramadan (Oct until 2006), throughout the city
UAE Day, national day, celebrating independence from Britain, 2 Dec, throughout city
Dubai Rugby Sevens, popular winter event lures crowd with big-name teams and pre-, during- and post-game parties, early Dec, Dubai Exiles Rugby Club

Cost of Living

Due to the current regional geo-political situation and the resultant impact on tourism, many companies have been discounting heavily, with car hire rates for example falling up to 30%. How long these reductions continue depends on the unfolding situation and these cuts are by no means across the board.

One-litre bottle of mineral water: Dh4
33cl bottle of beer: Dh18 (only available in tourist hotels, restaurants and bars)
Financial Times newspaper: From Dh10
36-exposure colour film: Dh26
City-centre bus ticket: Dh1-3.5
Rugby 7s ticket: From Dh200
Three-course meal with wine/beer: Dh110

1 United Arab Emirates Dirham (Dh1) = 0.14; US$0.27; C$0.34; A$0.35; 0.21
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005