World City Guide

Mini Guide of Cape Town

City Overview

With its stunning location, tucked into the arms of a broad bay, surrounded by wild, white-sand beaches and set against the canvas of Table Mountain, Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Affectionately nicknamed the Mother City, the city is the epicentre of South Africa’s Western Cape region and the seat of South Africa’s parliament. Originally home to the nomadic Khoi people for at least 30,000 years, the Cape Peninsula was first settled, on 6 April 1652, by Dutch sailors led by Jan van Riebeek of the Dutch East India Company. Portuguese explorer Bartholemew Diaz had already discovered the Cape in 1488 and christened it Cabo Tormentoso or ‘Cape of Storms’, but Portugal’s King John II later renamed it ‘Cape of Good Hope’. In 1795, it became a British colony, when the British Empire extended its borders. The city has been the first port of call for many a European settler, entrepreneur and religious refugee, as well as for Indian, Madagascan and South-East Asian slaves. All these people interspersed with the local Khoi and Xhosa population and the city became a melting pot of cultures, religions, styles and flavours. Nowadays, traders from other African countries (such as Malawi, Zimbabwe, Ethiopia and Nigeria) also favour Cape Town, particularly because there are so many tourists there. The city has a reputation for being the least xenophobic and most welcoming city in South Africa, with a strong diversity and open-minded benevolence. Capetonians are proud of their easygoing and laid-back nature, jokingly known as the ‘Cape coma’, so different from their more frenetic counterparts in the north.

On the streets, a great variety of languages are spoken, while stalls selling all manner of crafts, food and textiles are squashed among American-style malls, European fashion boutiques, art galleries, luxury hotels, backpacker lodges and the ubiquitous chains. In summer, it is difficult to escape the glitz of the international media, whether film crews, fashion shoots, music videos or commercials, lured by great foreign exchange rates, exotic locations, a world-class infrastructure and seemingly endless supply of drop-dead gorgeous models and extras.

Although Cape Town is undeniably on the up and up, it is still surrounded by the ever-visible legacy of apartheid. The first glimpse of the city coming from the airport is of shanty towns or ‘townships’, a hangover from the days of the notorious Group Areas Act, which reserved the prime city land for whites only. At the foot of Table Mountain, the area known as District Six (once populated by the local mixed-race community known as ‘Cape coloured’), now renamed Zonnebloem, is still somewhat of a ghost town, although housing development is underway. The inhabitants were moved to the bleak and windswept Cape Flats, which has become notorious as the gangland of disaffected Cape Town youth. Even today, relatively few non-whites live in the more upmarket suburbs, although some of the former townships are gradually turning into middle-class estates as the economic situation improves.

Nevertheless, natural beauty spreads out from Cape Town. To the south, the impeccable beaches of the Cape Peninsula are fringed with pretty towns and mansions ending in the beautiful Cape Point nature reserve. To the east lies the mysterious magnificence of the Overberg, the rolling plains, deserted beaches and lofty mountains of the Southern Cape. To the north and northwest, the misty and severe splendour of the West Coast, the austere wilderness of the Cedarberg and the verdant valley of Ceres await the traveller.

Many visitors think that Cape Town is best during the peak summer months (December to February) but it is attractive all year round. Summer brings long, hot beach days and balmy outdoor evenings, but they could also be described as sweltering and overcrowded and there is the chance of the legendary strong ‘southeaster’ wind. Spring (September to November) brings blooms of flowers, while autumn (March to May) promises a golden haze of warm days. Winter (June to August), although wet and often cold, is interspersed with weeks that are both warm and clear. The city is free of tourists and wonderfully green; dolphins and whales stop in the many small bays along the coastline, and waterfalls, the most spectacular sight of this ‘secret season’, streak silver paths down the mountains.

Getting There By Air

Cape Town International Airport (CPT)
Tel: (021) 937 1200 or (086) 727 7888 (flight information). Fax: (021) 934 2861.
E-mail: via the airport’s website.
Website: www.airports.co.za

Cape Town International Airport is located 22 (15.5 miles) east of Cape Town’s city centre on the N2 highway. The airport has experienced much expansion and renovation over the past decade and its cutting-edge design, clean and efficient interior and extensive facilities have earned it many awards. The Domestic Terminal is currently undergoing redevelopment, which is slated for completion in 2006. The airport is South Africa’s second largest and the gateway to the Western Cape; there are direct flights to a number of destinations worldwide, including London, Munich, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Atlanta, Kuala Lumpur, Buenos Aires, Singapore, Cairo, Mauritius, Windhoek and Fort Lauderdale. Domestic and regional routes include Johannesburg, Durban, Port Elizabeth, East London and Bloemfontein. The airport handles over six million passengers a year, projected to increase to 14 million by 2015.

Major airlines: South African Airways (tel: (021) 936 2389; fax: (021) 936 2487; e-mail: customercare@flysaa.com; website: www.flysaa.com) is the national airline. Other major carriers include British Airways, KLM, LTU, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and Virgin Atlantic.

Approximate flight times to Cape Town: From London is 11 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 17 hours; from Los Angeles is 25 hours; from Toronto is 19 hours and from Sydney is 16 hours.

Airport facilities: Facilities include foreign exchange, ATMs, executive car parking services, tourist information, restaurants, bars, snack bars, bookshops, duty-free shops, a pharmacy, mobile phone centre and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Imperial, Khava/Kulula, National/Alamo and Tempest.

Business facilities: The Zenith Airport Conference Venue (tel: (021) 934 0012; fax: (021) 934 1659; e-mail: info@airport-conference.co.za; website: www.airport-conference.co.za) is located near the Domestic Arrivals Terminal and provides meeting and conference space, with facilities such as e-mail, fax, telephones, projectors, video-conferencing and photocopiers; secretarial service, catering and mobile phone hire are also available. The Airports Company VIP Lounge (tel: (021) 937 1233), located next to the Domestic Departures Terminal, provides further information on the airport’s business facilities.

Arrival/departure tax: An airport tax of R63 for international travel, R42 for regional travel or R20 for domestic travel is included in the price of all tickets (domestic and international), although this can vary according to the airline and destination.

Transport to the city: There is no rail service or public bus service from the airport. Various shuttle bus services also operate services from the airport. Legend Tours and Transfers (tel: (021) 936 2814 or (084) 657 5273 (after hours); e-mail: info@legendtours.co.za; website: www.legendtours.co.za) operates a 24-hour door-to-door shuttle bus service, with prices starting at R180 for one passenger to Cape Town (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). Legend Tours and Transfers has a desk in International Arrivals, which is open from 0700 until the last flight. Dumalisile Shuttle (tel: (021) 934 1660) offers a similar service between the airport and city. Advance booking is recommended. Metered taxis are always available outside the airport from Touch Down Taxis (tel: (021) 919 4659), the official airport taxi company, for approximately R175 to the city centre. Most luxury and business hotels will, if notified in advance, provide transport to and from the airport.

Getting There By Water

The superbly located Cape Town Harbour, at the heart of the city, accessed via Dock Road, off Coen Steytler Avenue, Portswood or Beach Road, or via Ebenezer Road, off the Western Boulevard, is overseen by South African Port Operations (tel: (021) 449 5956; fax: (021) 449 2355; website: www.saponet.co.za), and is the second busiest port in South Africa, handling a huge volume of freight every year. Cruise liners regularly call here and it is also a major fishing port. There are two main sections of the harbour. While the massive working area, comprising the Duncan Dock, Ben Schoeman Dock and Sturrock Dock, is off limits to the casual visitor, the Victoria Basin, Alfred Basin and the New Basin, known collectively as the V&A Waterfront (tel: (021) 408 7600; fax: (021) 408 7605; e-mail: info@waterfront.co.za; website: www.waterfront.co.za) is one of South Africa’s premium tourist attractions (see Key Attractions) as well as a working harbour. There is no dedicated passenger terminal at Cape Town Harbour. Cruise liners longer than 245m (804ft) are accommodated at various berths at the Duncan Dock, while smaller liners dock at the V&A Waterfront.

Boat services: Andrew Weir Shipping (tel: (021) 425 1165; fax: (021) 421 7485; e-mail: sthelenaline@mweb.co.za; website: www.rms-st-helena.com) offers round-trip cruises from Cape Town, calling at St Helena and Ascension Island as well as Walvis Bay and Luderitz in Namibia (journey time – 23 days), on-board the RMS St Helena (an old Royal Mail ship).

Transport to the city: The Waterfront Shuttle bus service runs from the V&A Waterfront to Adderley Street, the hub of public transport in the city centre (journey time – approximately 10 minutes), as well as to Sea Point (journey time – approximately 20 minutes). Buses to the city centre operate every 10 minutes daily, departing from outside the Victoria & Alfred Hotel. The Atlantic Seaboard route departs every 15 minutes from Breakwater Boulevard. Taxi ranks are situated near the Two Oceans Aquarium, the Victoria & Alfred Hotel and outside both entrances to Victoria Wharf. Four helicopter companies operate charter flights from the V&A Waterfront to the winelands and other destinations further afield.

Getting There By Road

Cape Town’s road network is excellent, with both good highways and scenic routes. This, combined with the fact that there is limited public transport, means that driving is often the preferred mode of transport for many tourists. However, visitors should note that South Africa has a very high accident rate, although most major accidents happen on the national highways outside the cities.

Roads are designated by an ‘M’ for motorway, ‘N’ for national roads and highways (major routes that criss-cross the country) and ‘R’ for the smaller yet still key routes. Local roads, including gravel or dirt tracks, are commonly designated by a ‘C’ or ‘D’, if they are listed at all. The legal driving age is 18 years. Driving is on the left and seatbelts must be worn at all times. The speed limit on highways is 120kph (75mph), 80-100kph (50-62mph) on national roads and 60kph (37mph) in urban areas. Foreign licences are valid if they are printed in English and have a photograph of the holder, otherwise an International Driving Permit is essential. Licences must be carried at all times. Mandatory Personal Accident Insurance is included in the price of the petrol, however, drivers should not rely on this and extra insurance is highly recommended. Drink-driving penalties are strict and visitors should note that the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

Foreign drivers need to be aware that car hijacking is rampant in South Africa. Doors should be locked at all times and hitchhikers should be completely avoided. Unfortunately, it is essential for drivers to carry cash, as petrol stations do not accept credit cards. Nevertheless, almost all petrol stations provide ATM machines. Petrol stations are not self service and petrol attendants are on hand to fill cars; a small tip is customary.

The Automobile Association of South Africa – AA, Shop 33, Parkade Mall, Strand Street (tel: (021) 419 6914; fax: (021) 421 1343; e-mail: aasa@aasa.co.za; website: www.aasa.co.za) provides general information on road travel in South Africa. Other AA Auto Shops are located in Cavendish Square (Claremont) and the Tyger Valley Shopping Centre.

Emergency breakdown service:
AA (082) 16111 (toll free, 24 hours); yellow SOS telephones are available along major routes.

Routes to the city: There are three main routes leading into Cape Town. These are the N1 from the Winelands (Paarl and Franschhoek) and northern destinations, such as the Karoo and Johannesburg, the N2 from the airport, Somerset West and the Overberg via the Garden Route, and the N7 from the West Coast and Namibia.

Approximate driving times to Cape Town: From Somerset West – 30 minutes; Paarl – 45 minutes; Franschhoek – 1 hour; Johannesburg – 17 hours.

Coach services: Cape Town is linked by air-conditioned, deluxe and standard bus services to all major destinations in South Africa, including Johannesburg, Durban and Port Elizabeth, as well as some international destinations, such as Bulawayo and Harare in Zimbabwe, Maputo in Mozambique and Windhoek in Namibia. Cape Town Station, Adderley Street, is the departure point for all bus services. Service providers include Intercape Mainliner (tel: (021) 380 4400 (information) or (0861) 287 287 (central reservations); fax: (021) 380 2076 (reservations); e-mail: info@intercape.co.za; website: www.intercape.co.za), Greyhound (tel: (011) 276 8500 or (021) 505 6363; fax: (011) 276 8550; website: www.greyhound.co.za), Translux Express (tel: (021) 449 3333; fax: (021) 449 2545; website: www.translux.co.za) and Elwierda (tel: (021) 418 4673; fax: (021) 418 4767; e-mail: elwierdalux@yebo.co.za; website: www.elwierdacoachtours.co.za). Metro Transport Info (tel: (0800) 656 463; website: www.mti.co.za) provides centralised information and reservations for inter-city bus routes.

Getting There By Rail

Shosholoza Meyl (tel: (021) 449 2124; fax: (021) 449 2463 or (086) 000 8888, toll free; website: www.spoornet.co.za) operates all mainline railway services, while Cape Metrorail (tel: (021) 449 4210 or (083) 123 7245; fax: (021) 449 3356; website: www.capemetrorail.co.za) operates the suburban services (see Getting Around). While national travel is easy and comfortable, often even luxurious, suburban services are unreliable, not very extensive and can be very dangerous, especially after dark. Rail enquiries should be directed to the Metro Transport Info central toll-free number (tel: (0800) 656 463; website: www.mti.co.za); inter-city train reservations are also available. Metrorail also provides a security emergency number (tel: (0800) 210 081).

Cape Town Station, Adderley Street, services both national and suburban lines. The station is in a vast, vaulted building that houses an array of shops and kiosks – some tacky, others quite compelling. Other facilities include information desks, security lockers for hire (R10 per day), a restaurant and, believe it or not, a doctor, dentist and money-lending services. There is also a daily open-air flea market, located immediately outside the station.

Rail services: Mainline destinations include daily services to Pretoria via Johannesburg, Kimberley and Worcester (journey time – 28 hours), and a weekly service to Durban via Kimberley and Bloemfontein (journey time – 37 hours 10 minutes). Trains to Johannesburg and Durban offer a sleeper service and are relaxing alternatives to flying, with dining cars and serviced compartments.

The premier luxury train in South Africa is the Blue Train (tel: (021) 449 2672 or 334 8459, reservations; fax: (012) 449 3338 or 334 8464; e-mail: bluetrain@transnet.co.za; website: www.bluetrain.co.za), with services between Cape Town and Pretoria (journey time – 27 hours), as well as up the Garden Route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth (journey time – 43 hours 30 minutes). Trains can be chartered from Pretoria to Victoria Falls and Nelspruit/Hoedspruit; there are no scheduled services to these destinations. Trains to Pretoria depart three times a week, with more departures in October, November, February and March, while trains to Port Elizabeth depart on a specific day in March, September and December. Advance booking is recommended for both routes.

Transport to the city: Cape Town Station is situated right in the heart of the city centre. The central public transport bus depot is situated across the road, on Strand Street (in front of the Grand Parade). Metered taxis and minibus taxis are also available outside the station.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Cape Town is a frustrating city to navigate, simply because there is hardly any efficient public transport to speak of. That and the fact that there is a great big mountain right in the middle of the city can make getting around quite a daunting task for the tourist. Cape Town is, nevertheless, equipped with some trains and buses. Metro Transport Info (tel: (0800) 656 463; website: www.mti.co.za) provides centralised information on all trains, buses and taxis.

Cape Metrorail (tel: (021) 449 4210 or (083) 123 7245; website: www.capemetrorail.co.za) runs the suburban network of trains, consisting of five routes, which serve four defined areas - Area Ikapa (Cape Town and city destinations), Area North (including Bellville, Wellington, Stellenbosch and Strand), Area Central (including Langa and Khayelitsha) and Area South (including the Cape Flats and the Simon’s Town line via Wynberg, Newlands, Claremont and Rondebosch). The Cape Town-Simon’s Town route, which traverses the coastline, just metres from the ocean, is particularly spectacular. Tourists are advised to keep a watchful eye on their possessions, as pickpocketing is rife, and they should also never travel after dark. Trains generally run from Cape Town station daily 0430-1930 (depending on the route travelled), with regular departures, although there is a more limited service at weekends; some Area North routes do not offer a weekend service. There are two fare types – Metro (standard) and Metro Plus (first class); tourists are advised to travel on the Metro Plus service. Tickets also vary in price according to distance travelled; a single city-centre ticket costs R4.20 (Metro) or R5.50 (Metro Plus). Weekly and monthly passes are also available at R20 (Metro) or R39 (Metro Plus) and R70 (Metro) or R128 (Metro Plus) respectively. Tickets can be purchased at Cape Town Station, Adderley Street.

Although extremely chaotic, public buses still run regular and safe services to most destinations – including Camps Bay, Claremont, Hout Bay, Kirstenbosch, Kloof Nek, Sea Point and the Waterfront. However, tourists should probably avoid taking buses to the outlying areas. Golden Arrow (tel: (021) 937 8800; fax: (021) 934 4885; e-mail: information@gabs.co.za; website: www.gabs.co.za) has the monopoly on Cape Town’s bus services, which run out of the main bus terminal on Strand Street, just opposite Cape Town Station. Buses run daily approximately 0600-2000 (depending on the route), with a limited service at the weekend; some routes do not have a weekend service. Bus fares are based on the kilometres travelled and prices vary accordingly. For example, a ticket from the city centre toward the southern suburbs (Mowbray) costs R3.30. Tickets can be purchased upon boarding or from the main terminal (Monday to Friday 0600-1800, Saturday 0600-1230). ‘Clipcards’ or passes are also available at the Strand Street terminal. Based on travel between the city centre toward the southern suburbs (Mowbray), these cost R31 for a weekly clipcard.

The Waterfront Boat Co. (tel: (021) 418 5806; website: www.waterfrontboats.co.za) operate a daily water taxi service from 0800 to sunset, departing from the Arabella Sheraton, at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, to the Cape Grace hotel.

Taxis
Metered taxis can be ordered at any time of day or night and can also be hired for day trips. Although the meters are generally accurate, visitors should ask the driver for an estimated price before setting out, as many of the taxi drivers choose to ignore the meter. Taxi rates are approximately R8–10 per kilometre travelled, with a R50-60 per hour waiting fee. There are taxi ranks at the main railway station and at the top of Adderley Street, just below Company Gardens. Visitors should note that the practice of hailing a taxi on the street is virtually unheard of in Cape Town. Besides finding one at the ranks, visitors can call Marine Taxis (tel: (021) 434 0434) or Unicab (tel: (021) 448 8823). Rikki’s Taxis (tel: (021) 423 4888 or 786 2136) provides a more tourist-orientated taxi service in an open rickshaw-type vehicle; they only run in the city centre and Simon’s Town. Tipping is not common practice in Cape Town, although an extra R10–20 is always appreciated.

Minibus taxis
A common sight in any South African city, including Cape Town, the 10- to 12-seater minibus taxis are the preferred transport option of many a car-less local. These can be hailed down anywhere on the streets and are by far the cheapest transport option at about R2.50 a ride from the city centre to the southern suburbs or Atlantic seaboard.

However, the minibus taxis cannot really be recommended to tourists. Although they are getting more organised, especially on the inner city routes, they still have a bad reputation and safety record. Tourists who do choose to use this service should exercise caution and employ common sense at all times. Passengers, particularly women but men as well, should not board an empty bus, nor should they travel alone, at night or beyond the city centre and the immediate suburbs. They should absolutely avoid the minibus taxis that are in dreadful shape – with flat or smooth tyres, alarming dents or just a general state of disrepair. Similarly, tourists should absolutely avoid minibuses where ‘co-pilots’ lean out of the window or the door to shout the destinations – tourists should only board the minibuses that have the destinations and corresponding route numbers printed on the back of the bus. A ride in a minibus taxi is also a white-knuckle experience, not for the faint hearted, as the drivers do not pay much attention to the rules of the road.

Limousines
Limousines are something of a novelty in Cape Town and would certainly be stared at in the street. But for an indulgent day of sightseeing (especially wine tasting) a chauffeured limousine is ideal. Cape Cars (tel: (021) 433 0467; fax: (021) 433 0118; website: www.capecars.com) hires out eight-seater limousines for R1,000 per hour (R350 per hour thereafter) or R3,000 for eight hours. The price includes a chauffeur, minibar and 250km free mileage (R5 per kilometre thereafter).

Driving in the City
Due to the lack of efficient and safe public transport, many visitors choose to drive. Driving in the city is usually fairly unstressful, as there are good feeder highways, excellent signage and efficient traffic lights. The scenic routes and meandering country roads are particularly lovely. However, the characteristic Cape Town repose seems to dissolve once the locals are behind the wheel and driving can be hair-raising at times. Drivers are almost always accosted at stop streets and traffic lights, by beggars or entrepreneurs flogging everything from newspapers and roses to bin liners. (However, it can be a treat for hot and bothered motorists to purchase a box of sweet Hanepoot grapes, when in season – late summer).

Rush hour is generally 0700-0830 and 1630-1800, when some routes heading out of the city, particularly De Waal Drive, become quite congested. Getting into the city from the southern suburbs can be quite an adventure for the uninitiated. On what is known as ‘University Bend’, where De Waal Drive rounds the mountain towards feeder roads to the N2 and the Eastern Boulevard, there are many tricky lane changes to tackle, mainly because the exits are to the right of the road despite the fact that driving in South Africa is on the left. A preferred route into the city centre is via Main Road, which feeds into the city centre all the way from Wynberg, through Observatory, Woodstock and Salt River into Cape Town. Although fairly straightforward, here drivers have to keep an eye out for minibus taxis, whose Mad Max antics can be quite alarming at times. It is not advisable for drivers to attempt to challenge the minibus taxi drivers, as this can be very dangerous.

Parking is plentiful around the city, with almost every mall equipped with indoor parking. Central car parks are located on Strand Street, the Grand Parade and Plein Street. Indoor parking costs approximately R8 per hour. Other parking lots offer a pay-and-display service. In many free open parking lots, uniformed parking security guards will look after cars for a tip. Tipping is not essential, however, as this is, in most cases, the sole means of support for these security guards, a small tip of around R1 is not much for the average visitor to spare.

The street parking meters are operated by a prepaid swipe card system, operated by ADO CashCard (tel: (021) 712 0307; fax: (021) 712 0022; e-mail: adyo@ado.co.za; website: www.ado.co.za). Cards cost R35 plus R10 of parking credit, which can be topped up; they are available at newsagents, cafs and various other outlets. Street parking generally costs R3 per hour. Parking marshals on the streets of the city centre are on hand to offer assistance with operating the meters and to customers without parking cards. Tipping is not obligatory but is appreciated. The system is in operation Monday to Saturday during office hours; parking is free of charge after 1800. There are also some pay-and-display parking lots in the suburbs.

Car Hire
Hiring a car is often the visitor’s preferred mode of transport in Cape Town, especially for excursions to outlying areas. Hotels can arrange car hire for their guests, while all major car hire companies have booths at the airport. Cape Town Tourism (tel: (021) 426 4260; fax: (021) 426 4266) will also arrange car hire for tourists at no extra charge.

Some of the many major car hire companies include Budget (tel: (086) 101 6622; e-mail: reservations@budget.co.za; website: www.budget.co.za), Hertz (tel: (021) 400 9650; fax: (021) 425 8270; e-mail: res@hertz.co.za; website: www.hertz.co.za) and Tempest/Sixt (tel: (086) 003 1666 or (021) 424 5000; fax: (021) 424 4190; website: www.tempestcarhire.co.za). Global (tel: (021) 423 5211; fax: (021) 423 5280; e-mail; info@globalcarrental.co.za; website: www.globalcarrental.co.za) and Cape Car Hire (tel: (021) 385 0445; fax: (021) 385 0446; e-mail: info@capecarhire.co.za; website: www.capecarhire.co.za) are local providers.

Rates start at around R150 per day for a budget vehicle (excluding mileage, which is priced at around R0.95-4 per kilometre). Insurance is sometimes included in the rates but is usually offered as an optional extra (some companies make this compulsory, unless proof of individual insurance is provided) and is highly recommended, particularly against theft. Drivers must be at least 23 years old and have a credit card and an International Driving Permit (unless the driver’s national licence is printed in English and bears a photograph of the holder).

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
Cycling in the city centre requires nerves of steel and tremendous good luck. It is therefore not recommended. However, country and suburban excursions can be incredibly rewarding, especially through the Winelands and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Downhill Adventures, Shop 10 Overbeek Building, corner of Kloof, Long and Orange Streets (tel: (021) 422 0388; fax: (021) 423 0127; website: www.downhilladventures.com) hires out bicycles for R100 per day, including a helmet, pump, spare tube and lock, as well as free delivery in the City Bowl area.

To beat the beach parking blues, particularly in the crowded summer months, adventurous tourists often choose to hire out Kymco scooters from African Buzz, 202 Long Street (tel: (021) 423 0052; fax: (021) 423 0056; e-mail: skootaz@intekom.co.za), for R175-195 per day (24 hours), depending on the season. A deposit of R2,500 and a full motorcycle licence is required.

Business

Business Profile
Cape Town is somewhat removed from the frenetic business hype of South Africa’s major financial and industrial centre, Johannesburg. However, the Western Cape accounts foR 14% (R81,800 million) of the country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP), the third highest in the country, and the city is home to some of the country’s major financial institutions. These include insurance giants Old Mutual and Sanlam, financial houses like the Board of Executives, Investec, Merrill Lynch and Fedsure, and petroleum multinationals BP, Shell and Caltex (Chevron).

The economic mainstays of the region are agriculture, information communication technology (ICT), tourism, financial services and property, and manufacturing and construction. Since 2001, a general economic slowdown has occurred, largely due to the strengthening Rand and particularly affecting agriculture, transport, communication and financial services.

The ICT sector is currently the most important for growth and employment, although the monopoly of telecommunications giant, Telkom, is restricting many companies and the industry has struggled since the 2001 downturn, as has the financial services sector.

The single most significant industrial source of employment in the region is the clothing and textile industry, which supplies jobs for a massive 170,000 people. Ever since the tourism boom in 1995, the city has been reaping rich rewards and tourism is now the largest overall employer in the region, providing employment for a massive section of the workforce, both directly in the service industry and indirectly for street traders and other informal operatives.

Information Technology (IT) has also emerged as one of the major industries in the city, particularly during the recent IT downtown, during which time it proved resilient. The industry is one of the largest employers, with Cape Town boasting some 1,200 IT companies employing some 27,000 people. Within the IT industry, the focus is mainly on software development and consultancy, with 32% of the exported products and services going to Europe, 17% to the USA, and the rest to Africa.

The agriculture industry also employs a large number of people, with the emphasis being on wine production and fruit farming. With 200km of commercial fishing zone and an expanding port, fishing and shipping are also significant industries in the city. Fishing alone creates jobs for 27,000 people. A booming industry in Cape Town is the media. The city is favoured as the ideal location for international film crews, attracted by excellent foreign exchange rates, a first-rate infrastructure, a good film service industry, stunning locations, excellent weather and well-stocked modelling agencies. However, rising prices and a strengthening Rand are currently threatening this industry.

Another significant industry is printing and publishing – Cape Town has the lion’s share of this segment of South Africa’s economy.

The awarding of the 2010 FIFA World Cup will have significant benefits for the economy and is expected to contribute R21,3 billion to the country’s GDP, as well as create 159,000 jobs. Many, however, fear that the resulting construction and infrastructure of roads, stadiums and hotels will not be sustainable. Much of the action will be focused on Cape Town and the knock-on effect for tourism and investment is expected to be massive.

With the Western Cape boasting the highest adult education level in the country (with 93% of the people over the age of 20 having undergone schooling), 80% adult literacy (also the highest in the country) and five residential universities and technikons, Cape Town boasts a highly skilled workforce. However, only 45-52% of school leavers matriculate and inequality persists. Government spending on education currently falls short of the other provinces, although it is steadily increasing. This is undoubtedly a city on the grow, annually attracting around R1.1 billion foreign direct investment. However, poverty is still rife, with 29% of the population in the region living in poverty, which is nevertheless the lowest in the country. The official unemployment rate for South Africa is estimated to be almost 28% as of March 2004, while the expanded national unemployment rate is 42%. Unofficial unemployment rate estimates for 2004, according to the Cape Times newspaper, are 18% for the Western Cape and 20% for Cape Town (set to rise to 21% in 2005). Another problem facing the city is the increasing HIV infection rate – the Western Cape has an infection rate of 7.1%, which is already one third of the current average South African infection rate.

The Western Cape government is currently working on the iKapa elihlumayo project, which aims to increase economic growth, employment and economic participation, as well as reduce geographical and socio-economic inequality, and provide a sustainable social safety net. Initiatives include the introduction of a Rapid Bus Transport system, the construction of a film studio, and a further education and training programme.

Cape Town’s central business district is situated in the city centre and Foreshore, although business and industrial parks can also be found in the southern suburbs (Claremont, Rondebosch and Wynberg) and on the outskirts, with Epping, Parow, Retreat and Montague Gardens the core industrial areas outside the city. New developments are appearing in Saldanha and Vredenburg, as a result of the massive Saldanha Steel Project. The new Cape Town International Convention Centre, Convention Square, 1 Lower Long Street (tel: (021) 410 5000; fax: (021) 410 5001; e-mail: info@ctconvention.co.za; website: www.capetownconvention.com), is situated on the Foreshore, linking the V&A Waterfront and the city centre. The centre opened in June 2003 and has proved a great success, contributing two and a half times more to the national economy (R2.4 billion) than was originally anticipated. It will also create some 3,900 direct jobs in the city during 2005, over and above the 3,668 created during its first year. Over the next five years, the centre is expected to earn another R9.5 billion for the country’s GDP. The centre has also had a massive knock-on effect for Cape Town’s tourism industry. The V&A Waterfront, in the heart of the city, is an extremely popular and ever expanding business district. The University of Cape Town’s Graduate School of Business (tel: (021) 406 1338/9 or 1175; fax: (021) 421 5693; e-mail: info@gsb.uct.ac.za; website: www.gsb.uct.ac.za) is located here, producing some of the big minds in business, both for South Africa and abroad.

The Cape Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Cape Chamber House, 19 Louis Gradner Street (tel: (021) 402 4300; fax: (021) 402 4302; e-mail: info@capechamber.co.za; website: www.capechamber.co.za), was founded in 1804 and is a one-stop shop for business information and advice.

Business Etiquette
Business practices in Cape Town and South Africa are very similar to those in the UK and USA. Despite the fact that Cape Town is more informal than Johannesburg, most industries do expect a suit and tie. The more modern or artistic industries, such as information technology and the media, tend to display a more informal attitude to dress – particularly in the summer months. However, it is advisable for foreign business visitors to maintain formality and only resort to the casual uniform of shorts, T-shirts and sandals when the after-hours entertainment begins.

Business hours are 0900-1700, although many companies finish earlier on a Friday. The exchanging of business cards is an important ritual in Cape Town and a firm handshake between both men and women is common. In some instances, the African triple handshake will be used: this is a normal handshake, then a tilt to the hand is executed to clasp the fingers at a 90-degree angle (but without letting go) and then a return to a normal handshake.

Socialising is a big part of the business scene in Cape Town and much business is conducted over lunch. Wine will more than likely be included and visitors should note that South African wines often have a slightly stronger alcohol content than the majority of European wines (usually nearer 13%). Admiration of the local wine will be appreciated, although over-indulgence is certainly not recommended. Capetonians pride themselves on being hospitable to foreign visitors and an invitation to a business contact’s home is not unusual. These will, more than likely, take the form of a braai (barbecue), which tend to last throughout the entire afternoon and often into the night. Alcohol flows freely here and a gift of a bottle of wine is always appreciated, unless the host is Muslim, in which instance alcohol is strictly forbidden. In this case, a gift of chocolates, flowers or a speciality gift from the guest’s home country is more suitable.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
There is so much to do and see in Cape Town that the first-time visitor will find it difficult to fit everything in. Nevertheless, the city centre itself is small and compact, and easy and pleasant to navigate on foot. Table Mountain watches over the proceedings, providing not only a beautiful backdrop but also a handy point of orientation, which makes getting lost quite difficult.

There is an amazing variety of architectural styles, including Cape Dutch, Victorian and Edwardian buildings wedged in between modern skyscrapers. The Foreshore’s V&A Waterfront is a stunning example of urban regeneration, where old-style harbour warehouses and buildings have been transformed into beautiful shopping centres, luxury hotels and a multitude of restaurants. Spreading west toward Signal Hill is the Bo-Kaap (Top Cape) area, also known as the Malay Quarter (Malay is a misnomer for Cape Muslims of Asian descent). This area was home to the freed slaves – their descendants resisted all attempts at removal by the apartheid authorities and were much more successful than the District Six (now Zonnebloem) inhabitants, whose homes were bulldozed, following then Prime Minister Verwoerd’s enforcement of racial segregation laws. Offshore, north of Table Bay, lies Robben Island, the prison where Nelson Mandela and many of the other current top political leaders of South Africa were gaoled by the apartheid regime.

The outlying areas of Cape Town are also of great interest to visitors and an organised ‘township tour’, which explores the predominantly black areas of Kayalitsha, Langa and Gugulethu, is an increasingly popular item on the tourist agenda. A typical tour will include a visit to a significant site of The Struggle, lunch in a shebeen, a visit to a craft market and a stop at a self-help development project. It is inadvisable for visitors to venture into the townships without a guide, as crime levels are very high and tourists are often soft targets.

To the west of the city centre and extending south toward Cape Point, the Atlantic Seaboard incorporates the upmarket Sea Point, Clifton, Camps Bay, Llandudno, Hout Bay, Noordhoek and Kommetjie seaside suburbs. Meanwhile, curling around the eastern side of the Table Mountain range is the Southern Suburbs, with the world-renowned Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and the Constantia and Tokai Winelands. These connect to the cosy coastal towns of False Bay’s Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town. The two sides of the peninsula meet at the windswept and breathtakingly beautiful Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve at Cape Point.

Tourist Information
Cape Town Tourism Visitor Information Centre
Pinnacle Building, corner of Burg Street and Castle Street
Tel: (021) 426 4260/5639. Fax: (021) 426 4266/5640.
E-mail: info@capetourism.org
Website: www.capetourism.org or www.tourismcapetown.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1900, Sat 0830-1400, Sun 0900-1300 (summer); Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0830-1400, Sun 0900-1300 (winter).

There is also a Visitor Information Centre at the Clock Tower Precinct, at the V&A Waterfront. There are many other information centres situated around the peninsula, including Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, The Pavilion in Muizenberg, Sivuyile College in Gugulethu, the Tyger Valley Shopping Centre and Cape Town International Airport.

Passes
The Cape Town Pass (tel: (021) 409 7038; e-mail: info@thecapetownpass.co.za; website: www.thecapetownpass.co.za) was launched in May 2004. The pass gives free entrance to over 50 tourist attractions and includes 20 special offers and a free tourist guide with maps. The pass is available for one (R275), two (R425), three (R495) or six (R750) days (there are concessions for children, who pay R180, R285, R350 or R550) and is available online; at the Waterfront Tourism Centre, The Clock Tower, V&A Waterfront; Ashanti Lodge, 11 Hof Street, Gardens; Villiage & Life de Waterkant, 1 Loader Street, de Waterkant; and Villiage & Life Camp’s Bay, 59 Victoria Road, Camps Bay. Attractions included on the pass are a number of museums, the Cape Town Explorer bus (see Tours of the City), the Two Oceans Aquarium, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Koopmans de Wet House, Groot Constantia and the GrandWest Casino.

Key Attractions

Table Mountain
Cape Town’s defining landmark is also one of the city’s greatest tourist attractions. A cable car trip to the 1,086m (3,563ft) summit of Table Mountain takes just six minutes and the state-of-the-art gondola (one of just three of its kind in the world) rotates through 360 degrees on the way up (booking is advisable during summer). Once there, more than 2km (1.2 miles) of pathways lead walkers over the massif, with breathtaking views of the city and ocean below. A bistro, perched right on the summit, is by far the most incredible sundowner spot in Africa.

A popular option is for day-trippers to take a one-way ticket up and then climb down Platteklip Gorge – although visitors should take care. The local Mountain Rescue teams (tel: (021) 948 9900 or 10177 in an emergency) carry out over 100 rescues a year, many involving foreign tourists. The routes up and down the mountain are treacherous and sheer cliff faces with buffeting winds are a very real danger. Peering over the edge of the mountain, no matter how tempting, is simply not a good idea. The signposts warning of restricted areas must be observed at all costs. Furthermore, the weather can change in a matter of minutes and mist and darkness descend very quickly. Hikers should carry water, food, sunblock, a silver ‘space blanket’ to prevent hypothermia and a mobile phone.

For the wary wanderer, The Table Mountain Guiding Company (tel: (021) 461 6658/9; fax: (021) 462 5823; e-mail: info@activeafrica.co.za; website: www.active-africa.com) offers guided hikes up the mountain.

Tafelberg Road (lower cable station)
Tel: (021) 424 0015. Fax: (021) 424 3792.
E-mail: via the website.
Website: www.tablemountain.net
Transport: Bus from Adderley Street/Strand Street to Kloof Nek, then a long walk to Tafelberg Road; minibus taxi from Plein Street (post office) to Kloof Nek.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2200 (Dec-Jan); daily 0800-2100 (Feb-Mar); daily 0830-1830 (Apr); daily 0830-1800 (May-mid-Sep); daily 0830-1900 (mid-Sep-Oct); 0830-2000 (Nov); the cable car operates weather permitting.
Admission: R110 (return cable car ticket); R57 (single cable car ticket); concessions available.

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
The creation of this waterfront, known as the V&A Waterfront, was possibly Cape Town’s best commercial idea, transforming a rundown harbour area into a booming centre of tourism, culture, leisure and business. The area is now the most visited spot in the city, attracting 85% of international tourists. Renovated Victorian warehouses, offices and buildings created in the Victorian vernacular style, and many dozens of cafs and restaurants complete this waterside area and working harbour. A host of boat and yacht charter operations tout for business and it is worth taking one of the many cruises around the docks (see Tours of the City).

The Waterfront is also home to the world-class Two Oceans Aquarium. Feeding in the huge predator tanks takes place daily at 1530 and should not be missed. Aquarium dives can also be arranged. Then, with over 250 retail outlets, the Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre is another premier attraction. The Waterfront Trading Company and the Red Shed Craft Workshop supply local arts and crafts, while, in summer, various music acts perform on the bandstand.

The Clock Tower Precinct is the departure point for Robben Island cruises and is also packed with shops, bars and restaurants. During the initial construction of the area, the ruins of the Dutch East India Military installation, dating back to between 1715 and 1726, were discovered and are now on show to the public. The Waterfront Canal, linking the Waterfront and the Cape Town International Convention Centre and passing through a residential marina, opened in June 2003. Word on the quay is that a new luxury hotel is planned for the area around the vast New Basin, adjacent to the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Dock Road, off Coen Steytler Avenue, Beach or Portswood Road, or Ebenezer Road, off the Western Boulevard
Tel: (021) 408 7600. Fax: (021) 408 7605.
E-mail: info@waterfront.co.za
Website: www.waterfront.co.za
Transport: Waterfront Shuttle from Adderley Street or Beach Road.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; shope are open daily 0900-2100.
Admission: Free.

Two Oceans Aquarium
Dock Road
Tel: (021) 418 3823. Fax: (021) 418 3952.
E-mail: aquarium@aquarium.co.za
Website: www.aquarium.co.za
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800.
Admission: R60 (concessions available).

Robben Island
Visiting Robben Island, a World Heritage Site, is one of the most profoundly moving experiences to be had in South Africa. The infamous men-only prison and former leper colony was home to a generation of the senior statesmen of Africa, incarcerated because of their political beliefs. The most famous inmate was, of course, Nelson Mandela, who spent 18 years of his 27-year sentence here. The daily Robben Island Tour leaves from the Nelson Mandela Gateway at the V&A Waterfront Clock Tower Precinct. Once on the island, guided tours are all given by former political prisoners here, while the first-class museum, situated on Robben Island, offers a wealth of information on this period of South Africa’s history. There is more to Robben Island than politics and history, however. The physical beauty of the island itself is magnificent, with penguin and seal colonies, as well as the fantastic view of Cape Town.

V&A Waterfront and Robben Island
Tel: (021) 413 4200 (information) or 409 5100 (museum) or 413 4208/9 (reservations). Fax: (021) 425 0206 (information) or 411 1059 (museum) or 419 1057 (reservations).
E-mail: info@robben-island.org.za or bookings@robben-island.org.za
Website: www.robben-island.org.za
Transport: Ferries from the Nelson Mandela Gateway at the Clock Tower Precinct, V&A Waterfront.
Opening hours: Ferries depart daily 0900, 1000, 1200, 1300, 1400 and 1500 (weather permitting).
Admission: R150 (ferry ticket and admission); concessions available.

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
Sprawling over a magnificent 528 hectares (1,325 acres) and home to 5,000 indigenous plant species, Kirstenbosch is rated one of the top seven botanical gardens in the world. With stunningly beautiful formal gardens dotted with African stone sculptures, Kirstenbosch is a delightful place for a picnic, a stroll or even an energetic hike through the natural fynbos (indigenous and unique to the Western Cape) and forest on the lower slopes of Table Mountain. Attractions include a forest trail for the blind, a protea garden, a water-wise garden, a useful plants garden and a fragrance garden, as well as a cycad amphitheatre, a glasshouse complete with Boabab tree, an authentic African mud hut, a gift shop, garden centre, bookshop, restaurants and caf. Over the summer months (December to March), immensely popular Sunset Concerts are held on Sunday afternoons at 1730, with music that ranges from classical to jazz, African traditional and folk.

Rhodes Drive, Newlands
Tel: (021) 799 8899. Fax: (021) 797 6570.
Website: www.kirstenbosch.co.za or www.sanbi.org
Transport: Bus from Adderley Street or Mowbray Station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1900 (Sep-Mar); daily 0800-1800 (Apr-Aug).
Admission: R22; concessions available.

Company Gardens
Jan van Riebeek (the first commander of the Dutch colony at the Cape) ordered the planting of Company Gardens in 1652, to serve as a fruit and vegetable supply for the visiting ships, to protect the sailors against scurvy. Nowadays, the gardens are a green lung for the city centre. The park is not just a botanical delight but is also home to St George’s Cathedral, the Houses of Parliament, the South African National Gallery, the South African Museum and the Planetarium.

The Anglican St George’s Cathedral has been in existence for over 100 years but is also a potent symbol of anti-apartheid resistance. It has been the site of many a political rally in the past and, until 1996, Nobel Peace Prize winner Desmond Tutu was archbishop here.

The Houses of Parliament, which flank the eastern edge of the gardens, are a blend of Georgian and Victorian styles of architecture. Designed by the British architect Harry Greaves, they were completed in 1885, when the parliament became the seat of British expansion into Africa. The building is also an important stop on the political tourist’s itinerary. This is where the ‘architect of apartheid’, prime minister Hendrik Verwoerd, was assassinated in 1966. It is also where Nelson Mandela gave his inaugural speech as president of the ‘new South Africa’ in 1994.

The South African National Gallery contains one of the finest collections of South African and international art in the country and has regular exhibitions of work from around the world. The South African Museum is an excellent place for visitors to spend a couple of hours learning about the natural and political history of South Africa. It also boasts the oldest African artworks, the Lydenburg Heads, which date back to 500BC, as well as a superb whale exhibit and a shop, located on Orange Street. In the Planetarium, the real-time night sky displays are an entrancing introduction to the stellar delights of Southern Africa.

Government Avenue (between Wale Street and Orange Street), Gardens
Transport: A short walk from Adderley Street.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: Free.

South African National Gallery
Government Avenue
Tel: (021) 467 4660. Fax: (021) 467 4680.
Website: www.museums.org.za/sang
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission: R5; concessions available.

South African Museum
25 Queen Victoria Street
Tel: (021) 481 3800. Fax: (021) 481 3993.
Website: www.museums.org.za/sam
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission: R8; concessions available; free Sun.

Planetarium
25 Queen Victoria Street
Tel: (021) 481 3900. Fax: (021) 481 3990.
Website: www.museums.org.za/planetarium
Opening hours: Shows Mon-Fri 1400 (excluding first Mon of the month), Tues 2000, Sat and Sun 1200, 1300 and 1430.
Admission: R20; concessions available.

Koopmans De Wet House
Built in 1701, Koopmans De Wet House reflects patrician life at the Cape in the 18th century. Designed in the distinctive ‘Cape Dutch’ architectural style (a style repeated in many of the grand manor houses on rural estates and recognisable by curly gables) the house is also furnished with fine examples of Cape craftsmanship. Many of these hand-carved items of furniture were designed by slave fundis or experts from the East, as was the unique decorative plasterwork on the exterior of this and other buildings. The quiet, cool and darkened interior is also a tranquil retreat from the bustle and heat of the city centre.

35 Strand Street
Tel: (021) 481 3935. Fax: (021) 424 6441.
Website: www.museums.org.za/koopmans
Transport: A short walk from Cape Town Station and Grand Parade.
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 0930-1630.
Admission: R5; concessions available.

Beaches
Cape Town boasts some of the most spectacular beaches in the world. With a long summer and balmy winter days in between the rain, these are an irresistible attraction all year round. There is a beach to suit just about every taste – from the trendy spots, where tanned bikini bodies are the order of the day, via the more family orientated, easy-swim sites, to wild and rugged sundowner spots. Beaches are overseen by the Table Mountain National Park.

Set along the stunning panorama of the Twelve Apostles mountain range, beaches on the Atlantic seaboard are several degrees colder than those on the False Bay side, which are warmed by the L’Agulhas current, which diffuses into the eastern end of Cape Point.

However, the beaches on the Atlantic seaboard are hugely popular and real estate here is hot property – the stretch of mansions that lines the coast is known as Millionaire’s Row. The suburb of Clifton has four beaches, one of which, Fourth Beach, is Cape Town’s premier beach spot and the preferred place for the beautiful people to pose. All four beaches, however, are often overcrowded in the peak summer months and parking on Victoria Road above the beach is virtually impossible. An alternative, with a California feel and restaurants and bars close at hand, is the nearby Camps Bay. Further out is the favourite sundowner spot, Llandudno, and the homely Hout Bay. The nearby Mariner’s Wharf fishing harbour (tel: (021) 790 1100; e-mail: mariners@capecoast.co.za; website: www.marinerswharf.com) offers great seafood restaurants, markets, gift shops, boat trips and a fish market selling live lobsters by the kilo, as well as the Cape speciality, smoked snoek. Noordhoek and Kommetjie, both part of Long Beach, are accessible via the Chapman’s Peak Drive toll road. This highly popular scenic route collapsed into the sea in January 2000 and reopened as a toll road in December 2003, after a R157-million reconstruction involving high-tech safety features. These far-flung beaches are still quite deserted and Noordhoek can be dangerous for lone walkers, particularly after dark.

False Bay offers its own set of coastal delights, quite different from the chilly counterparts on the Atlantic side. With warmer waters, the stretch of Muizenberg beach and little coves and inlets of Kalk Bay, St James and Fish Hoek offers delightful swimming, with smaller waves and a family feel. Formerly a whaling station and a prisoner of war camp, Boulders has a string of delightful coves that are always sheltered from the frequent and blustering ‘southeaster’ wind. However, visitors to Boulders will have to share their beach with quite a crowd & of African Penguins. The colony of penguins is protected and although these patient birds are happy to pose for photographs, there is a hefty fine for ‘wilfully disturbing’ them. They can also bite – so birdwatchers are therefore encouraged to admire them from a respectful distance. Boulders is just as popular with humans as it is with penguins, so sun-seekers should be sure to arrive early in order to stake their claim to a piece of beach, boardwalk or boulder.

When not taking on the might of Cape Point’s wind ravaged coastline or enjoying the consistently good waves of Long Beach, surfers mainly head north for Table Bay and the beaches of Blouberg Strand, Dolphin Beach and Milnerton, where the incessant wind promises big waves and the location offers incredible views of Table Mountain.

Clifton, Camps Bay and Llandudno, access from Victoria Road (M6)
Hout Bay Beach and Mariner’s Wharf, North Shore Road or Beach Road, Hout Bay
Noordhoek, Silvermine Road via Ou Kaapse Weg, Noordhoek
Kommetjie, Kommetjie Road (M65), Kommetjie
Muizenberg, Baden-Powell Drive, Muizenberg
Kalk Bay, St James and Fish Hoek, off Main Road (M4)
Boulders Beach, Miller’s Point Road, from Main Road (M4), Simonstown/Miller’s Point
Cape Point beaches, several roads off Cape Point Road
Blouberg Strand and Dolphin Beach, Otto Du Plessis Road, Blouberg
Milnerton, Marine Drive and Otto Du Plessis, Milnerton
Tel: (021) 701 8692 (Table Mountain National Park) or 786 2329 (Boulders) or 780 9010/11 (Cape Point). Fax: (021) 701 8773 (Table Mountain National Park) or 786 2329 (Boulders).
E-mail: tablemountain@sanparks.org
Website: www.tmnp.co.za or www.capepoint.co.za (Cape Point)
Transport: Train to Simon’s Town (False Bay beaches); bus to Sea Point, Camps Bay or Hout Bay (Atlantic Seaboard); self-drive for others (see routes above).
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours; daily 0800-1730 (Boulders); Daily 0600-1800 (Sep-Apr), daily 0700-1700 (May-Aug) (Cape Point).
Admission: Free; R15 (Boulders); R35 (Cape Point); concessions available.

Further Distractions

Bo-Kaap Museum
Built in the mid-1760s, the Bo-Kaap Museum was originally the home of Turkish scholar, Abu Bakr Effendi, and is the oldest extant residence in the Muslim community, as well as a rare example of urban Cape Dutch architecture. The furnishings are typical of an 18th-century Cape Town Muslim residence, right down to the main bedroom – an authentic bridal suite. Effendi was a revered Arabic teacher and wrote one of the first texts that documented the emergence of South Africa’s second language Afrikaans (a language developed from 17th-century Dutch). This is also a social history museum, focusing on the local community, with two new displays comprising a photographic impression of life in the Bo-Kaap and an exhibition that touches on the influence of apartheid on the area. The Bo-Kaap area is the traditional home of the Cape-Malay community, brought in as slaves from Indonesia. It has some of the city’s most interesting history and architecture, as well as fabulous views.

71 Wale Street
Tel: (021) 481 3939. Fax: (021) 481 3938.
Website: www.museums.org.za/bokaap
Transport: A 10-minute walk from Cape Town Station.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1630.
Admission: R5; concessions available.

Castle of Good Hope
Construction began on this five-pointed, star-shaped castle (originally a Dutch fortress) in 1666, which makes it the oldest colonial building in the country. Perhaps the most visible symbol of the colonial occupation of Cape Town and South Africa, the Castle of Good Hope became the apartheid government’s military headquarters in 1948. However, since the liberation of South Africa in 1994, South Africa’s oldest building has done much to polish up its tarnished image and has become very much a museum of the people. The castle hosts alternative art exhibitions and cultural events. Also within the castle, the William Fehr Collection is a superb record of colonial Cape art and culture.

Corner of Darling Street and Castle Street
Tel: (021) 787 1249. Fax: (021) 787 1089.
Website: www.castleofgoodhope.co.za
Transport: A short walk from the Grand Parade/Strand Street.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600; guided tours daily 1100, 1200 and 1400.
Admission: R18 (including guided tour); R9 on Sun; concessions available.

William Fehr Collection
Tel: (021) 464 1260. Fax: (021) 464 1280.
Website: www.museums.org.za/wfc
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1600.
Admission: R18; concessions available.

Century City
Just 10 minutes from the city centre, Africa’s largest mall, Canal Walk, is located in the massive and architecturally astounding Century City development, which is also home to Africa’s first full-scale theme park, Ratanga Junction, with over 30 rides, as well as an entertainment complex, complete with clubs, pubs and restaurants. The MTN Sciencentre provides a myriad of scientific distractions for children of all ages, with over 250 interactive displays and a 200-seat multimedia arena. The 16-hectare (39.5-acre) man-made Intaka Island is a haven for bird life, while boat rides on the 4km (2.5 miles) of canals are also available.

Century City, Century Boulevard, Milnerton
Tel: (021) 550 7000. Fax: (021) 550 7001.
E-mail: info@centurycity.co.za
Website: www.centurycity.co.za
Transport: By car, exit 10 off the N1; bus from Strand Street to the new on-site Ratanga Terminus.

Canal Walk Shopping Centre
Tel: (021) 555 4444. Fax: (021) 555 0746.
E-mail: via the website.
Website: www.canalwalk.co.za
Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 1000-2100, Sat 0900-2100. Admission: Free; parking charges apply.

Ratanga Junction
Tel: (0861) 200 300. Fax: (021) 550 8556.
E-mail: info@ratanga.co.za
Website: www.ratanga.co.za
Opening hours: Wed-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1000-1700 (end of Nov-May); Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1000-1700 (15 Dec-9 Jan).
Admission: R100; concessions available.

MTN Sciencentre
407 Canal Walk
Tel: (021) 529 8100. Fax: (021) 529 8179.
E-mail: info@mtnsciencentre.org.za
Website: www.mtnsciencentre.org.za
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 0930-1800, Fri-Sat 0930-2000, Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: R24; concessions available.

Gold of Africa Museum
Although gold is more often associated with South Africa’s ‘City of Gold’, Johannesburg, Cape Town’s Gold of Africa Museum is focused entirely on all that glitters and is indeed gold. Located in the historic, 18th-century Martin Melck House, this museum is the first of its kind in the world and is all about the history and artistry of African gold, with a number of dazzling temporary and permanent exhibitions. Highlights include the West African gold artefacts from the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva, the goldsmith workshop and design studio, the wine cellar and a delightful, shady tea garden. Tours are available on request and the museum shop is there to satisfy the jackdaw in all of us.

96 Strand Street
Tel: (021) 405 1540. Fax: (021) 405 1541.
E-mail: info@goldofafrica.com
Website: www.goldofafrica.com
Transport: A short walk from Cape Town railway and bus stations; secure complimentary parking on the corner of Buitengracht and Strand streets.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1700.
Admission: R20; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
With its cosmopolitan buzz, street music, markets and busking acts, as well as a multitude of alfresco cafs and restaurants to take a rest in, Cape Town is a great city for exploring on foot. Wanderlust (tel: (021) 426 4252; e-mail: wanderlust@iafrica.com; website: www.wanderlust.co.za), offers three ‘Cape Town on Foot’ walking tours of the city. The Full City Walking Tour takes two and a half hours to cover the main sights of the city centre; these depart from the Cape Town Tourism office (see Tourist Information) Monday to Friday at 1100 and cost R100 per person. The one-hour City Highlights tour also departs from Cape Town Tourism office at 0930 Monday, Wednesday and Friday, costing R50. The one-hour Bo-Kaap Experience tour departs from the Bo-Kaap Musuem, 71 Wale Street, at 0930 Tuesday and Thursday and costs R75 (including museum entrance fee).

Bus Tours
Hylton Ross (tel: (021) 511 1784; fax: (021) 511 2401; e-mail: info@hyltonross.co.za; website: www.hyltonross.co.za) runs a regular open-topped double-decker bus tour, the Cape Town Topless Tour, which takes in all the major sights of Cape Town, with a running commentary. The two-hour tour can be hailed anywhere along the route and takes in the V&A Waterfront, Sea Point, District Six (Zonnebloem) and Camps Bay. Buses run from the Cape Town Tourism office (see Tourist Information) daily 0930-1910 (summer), 0930-1710 (winter). The R90 hop-on hop-off tickets are valid all day and can be purchased on the bus, at the Cape Town Tourism Visitor Information Centres or in advance from Hylton Ross. The company also offers half-day tours of the city, including Table Mountain (cableway tickets not included) and a boat trip of the V&A Waterfront, departing daily 0745-1230 and costing R250, as well as a full-day township tour, Monday-Saturday 0830-1300, costing R260 (concessions available).

Grassroute Tours (tel: (021) 706 1006; fax: (021) 705 0798; e-mail: grasrout@iafrica.com; website: www.grassroutetours.co.za) offers a half-day Rainbow Tour of District Six (Zonnebloem) and the townships, with an option of extending the tour with a trip to Robben Island. Pick up and drop off is arranged and tours (excluding Robben Island) run from 0830/0900 to 1300/1330.

Boat Tours
Waterfront Boat Company (tel: (021) 418 5806; fax: (021) 418 5821; website: www.waterfrontboats.co.za) offers a range of tours, from harbour tours to excursions and champagne cruises, departing from the V&A Waterfront Quay Five. Tours range from a half-hour harbour cruise (R30) to a full-day fishing trip (R1,600). Whale-watching tours are available during the season (Jun-Nov); these take three to four hours and cost R350. Thrill seekers might enjoy a high-speed one-hour motorboat trip to Clifton beach for R300. A popular pastime is a spectacular sunset sailing experience across Table Bay, which costs R170 and includes sparkling wine.

The Waterfront Information Office (tel: (021) 408 7600; fax: (021) 408 7605; e-mail: info@waterfront.co.za; website: www.waterfront.co.za) provides information on other tours available from the V&A Waterfront.

Boat tours to see the Cape Fur Seals on Duiker Island in False Bay are operated by Drumbeat Charters (tel: (021) 790 4859). All cruises, which depart from Hout Bay Harbour, cost R45 and take approximately 40 minutes.

Bicycle Tours
Daytrippers (tel: (021) 511 4766; fax: (021) 511 4768; e-mail: info@daytrippers.co.za; website: www.daytrippers.co.za) organises a number of bicycle tours, including the ‘Cape Point Tour’, which follows the Atlantic Coast past Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve and on to Boulders Beach. The full-day tour costs R350, including picnic lunch and entrance fees. Other cycling tours include a Winelands tour, various mountain biking tours, and a whale-watching tour (Jul- Nov). Adventure Village (tel: (021) 424 1580; fax: (021) 424 1590; e-mail: info@adventure-village.co.za; website: www.adventure-village.co.za) operates a similar service.

Other Tours
Civair (tel: (021) 419 5182; fax: (021) 419 5183; e-mail: info@civair.co.za; website: www.civair.co.za) and NAC Makana Aviation (tel: (021) 425 3868; fax: (021) 425 3858; e-mail: info@nacmakana.com; website: www.nacmakana.com) both offer 20-minute, 30-minute and one-hour helicopter tours. Civair flights cost R1,800, R2,700 and R5,400 respectively, while NAC Makana flights cost from R1,600, R2,400 and R4,800 respectively. Civair also offers 50-minute Winelands tours from R9,000.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Cape Point: This windswept peninsula, where the cold Benguela current and the warm Mozambique current converge, is the mythical meeting place of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans – the physical meeting place is actually 100km (62 miles) to the east, at Cape L’Agulhas. Cape Point (tel: (021) 780 9010/11; website: www.capepoint.co.za) is situated in the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve at the far tip of the enormous 7,750-hectare (19,151-acre) Table Mountain National Park (tel: (021) 701 8692; fax: (021) 701 8773; e-mail: tablemountain@sanparks.org; website: www.tmnp.co.za).

Located 35km (22 miles) from the city centre, along the M4 via Simon’s Town, Cape Point is home to a splendid array of wildlife, including zebra, lynx, bontebok, ostrich and baboons, as well as some of the rarest plants on Earth. Visitors should beware of the baboons, however, as they can be dangerous, particularly where food is involved; there is a fine for feeding them. The Buffelsfontein Visitor Centre (tel: (021) 780 9204; fax: (021) 780 9321), which has exhibitions, auio-visual displays and information on the areas natural and cultural wealth, is open daily 0800-1700. An overnight facility at Bordjiesrif is in the planning stages. An added bonus is the Two Oceans Restaurant (tel: (021) 780 9200; fax: (021) 780 9060; e-mail: info@two-oceans.co.za; website: www.destinationrestaurants.co.za), which is perched on the cliff above the Atlantic Ocean, as well as curio shops. Admission to the reserve costs R35 per adult (concessions available) and it is open daily 0600–1800 (Sep-Apr) and 0700–1700 (May-Aug).

Constantia Wine Route: Located approximately 17km (11 miles) or a 25-minute drive south of the city centre, the Constantia Wine Route offers a handy alternative to a longer trip to the Boland. There are over 400 wine producers in South Africa and the Constantia Valley area is home to five of the Cape’s top estates: Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Constantia Uitsig and Steenberg Vineyards.

Africa’s oldest wine estate, Groot Constantia, off the M41 Constantia Road (tel: (021) 794 5128; fax: (021) 794 1999; e-mail: enquiries@grootconstantia.co.za; website: www.grootconstantia.co.za), with its original manor house and wine museum (tel: (021) 795 5140; fax: (021) 795 5150; website: www.museums.org.za/grootcon), gives a fascinating insight into early colonial life in the Cape (admission: R10). There is also the elegant Jonkershuis Restaurant (tel: (021) 794 6255; fax: (021) 794 4813; e-mail: a-m-s@mweb.co.za). Tasting takes place daily 1000-1700 (May-Nov) and 0900-1800 (Dec-Apr) at a cost of R20 per person (this includes five wines and a souvenir tasting glass).

The family-owned Klein Constantia, Klein Constantia Road (tel: (021) 794 5188; fax: (021) 794 2464; e-mail: info@kleinconstantia.com; website: www.kleinconstantia.com), offers some choice Cape wines for tasting in extremely friendly company. Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia Road (tel: (021) 794 5190, fax: (021) 794 1351; e-mail: info@buitenverwachting.com; website: www.buitenverwachting.co.za), is renowned for its exclusive restaurant (see Restaurants) and pleasant picnic area. Contantia Uitsig, Spaanschmat River Road (tel: (021) 794 1810; fax: (021) 794 1812; e-mail: thewineshop@uitsig.co.za; website: www.constantiauitsig.co.za), translates to ‘Constantia View’ and the farm offers visitors not only excellent wine but the charming Spaanschemat River Caf and two superb restaurants; La Colombe is the best (see Restaurants). Finally, Steenberg Vineyards, Steenberg Road (tel: (021) 713 2211; fax: (021) 713 2201; e-mail: info@steenberg.co.za; website: www.steenberg-vineyards.co.za), makes up for its dubious location opposite Pollsmore Prison with an exclusive hotel, a golf course and a restaurant.

Visitor Information Centres (see Tourist Information) can provide further information on the Constantia Wine Route. Most of the estates are open for wine tasting at least 0900-1700 (weekdays) and 0900-1300 (Saturdays).

For a Whole Day

The Boland: A tour of the Boland (‘uplands’ or ‘toplands’) reveals a world of dramatic mountain ranges, crystal clear rivers teeming with trout, beautiful valleys and the Western Cape’s bucolic Winelands, dotted with historic wine estates. There are 14 officially designated ‘wine routes’ incorporating many of the wine estates that are open to the public. Mother City Tours (tel: (021) 448 3817; fax: (021) 448 3844; website: www.mctours.co.za) offers a full-day ‘Three Cape Winelands’ tour of the Boland estates, costing R430. Bacchanalian tourists who choose to go it alone with one of the many route maps obtainable from Cape Town Tourism (see Tourist Information) should always make sure there is a designated driver who abstains from quaffing.

Somerset West is half an hour from the city centre on the R44 off the N2 highway. This bustling town nestles in a basin created by the towering peak of Helderberg (‘Clear Mountain’) and the Hottentots Holland mountain range. Here, the Vergelegen wine farm, Lourensford Road (tel: (021) 847 1334; fax: (021) 847 1608; website: www.vergelegen.co.za), was built in 1700 and is one of the most gracious and perfectly located of all the old Cape Dutch homesteads, offering wine tasting, cellar tours, a superb restaurant and library containing rare volumes of early Africana. The Helderberg Nature Reserve (tel: (021) 851 4060; e-mail: info@helderbergnaturereserve.co.za; website: www.helderbergnaturereserve.co.za) is located just before the turn-off to Vergelegen and comprises several kilometres of hiking trails and paths with magnificent views over the Helderberg Basin.

South Africa’s second oldest town, Stellenbosch, produces a third of all the wine in the Cape and also boasts the longest wine route in the world. Named after the Dutch governor, Simon van der Stel, this university town is one of the best preserved of all South African settlements. The Stellenbosch Village Museum, 18 Ryneveld Street (tel: (021) 887 2902; fax: (021) 883 2232; e-mail: stelmus@mweb.co.za), tells the story and consists of four carefully restored and furnished buildings built between 1709 and 1850; the museum is open Monday-Saturday 0900-1700. Stellenbosch is located on the R310 off the N2 highway.

South Africa’s ‘French quarter’, Franschhoek, was named after the French Huguenots who fled Catholic persecution and began arriving at the Cape in 1688. Today, the valley is famous for its wine and good food. Located off the N1, the area is key to much of South Africa’s distant and recent history. The Huguenot Memorial, Lambrecht Street (tel: (021) 876 2532; fax: (021) 876 3649; e-mail: hugenoot@museum.co.za; website: www.museum.co.za), traces the history of the Huguenots, open Monday-Saturday 0900-1700 and Sunday 1400-1700. While to the west, on the R303, is the Victor Verster Prison, from where Nelson Mandela walked to freedom on 11 February 1990.

Overberg: Over Sir Lowry’s pass and beyond South Africa’s oldest inn, the Houwhoek Inn, the Western Cape landscape transforms into the harsh beauty of the Overberg, approximately 170km (106 miles) east from Cape Town at its central point. This region is the gateway to Africa’s southernmost tip, Cape L’Agulhas – located approximately a three-hour drive southeast of Cape Town, accessible on the N2. Here, the two oceans meet in a spectacular show of natural beauty. The L’Agulhas Lighthouse (tel: (028) 435 6078) and Zuidste Kaap (tel: (028) 435 6034) restaurants both provide a unique location in which to dine out – the fully operational lighthouse, which is over 150 years old, also doubles as a museum and curio shop, open daily 0900-1630 (entrance R10). The southernmost point is located 1km (0.6 miles) of the lighthouse. Visitors should take note, however, not to book any tours that involve 4X4 driving on the beaches and dunes as this is not only incredibly harmful to the delicate seafront wildlife (some of which are endangered species) but is also illegal.

Nearby, the 14km (9 miles) of continuous white sand beach (the longest in the Southern Hemisphere) of Struuisbaai offers stunning bathing. Further afield, the virtually untouched charm of Arniston delights visitors with a traditional fishing village, Kassiesbaai, which has been declared, in its entirety, a national monument. Hermanus, another coastal town in the Overberg region, dubbed ‘the Riviera of the Overberg’ for its wealthy stature, is the principal whale-spotting location, one of the best in the world, with an annual 10-day whale watching festival in September/October (website: www.whalefestival.co.za). The sleepy town of Greyton is renowned for its arty locals and this is particularly evident during the winter months, when the Greyton Winter Festival takes place in June (website: www.overberginfo.com/greytonfestivals). It includes a moonlight market among other rustic delights. Many other towns are worth visiting, such as the fruit farming paradise of Grabouw and the austere charm of Napier.

Southern Touring Company (tel: (021) 935 0733; fax: (021) 935 0737; e-mail: bookings@southerntours.co.za; website: www.southerntours.co.za) offers whale-watching tours. For those who wish to spend more than just one day exploring this wonderful region, Cape Quest (tel: (021) 674 2555; fax: (021) 674 3614; e-mail: info@capequest.co.za; website: www.capequest.co.za) has a number of tour options with bed and breakfast accommodation in the Overberg. The Overberg Tourism Office (tel: (028) 214 1466; fax: (028) 212 1380; e-mail: info@capeoverberg.org; website: www.tourismcapeoverberg.org) provides further information on destinations within the Overberg.

Sport

Sport has proved to be a wonderful way of bringing together the people of South Africa and various steps to break down the traditional racial stereotypes of certain sports have been taken and seem to be working well. Most recently, the awarding of the 2010 FIFA World Cup to the country has created ripples of celebration and excitement throughout the entire population, especially following the disappointment of losing the 2006 bid to Germany. Football has a predominantly black following and is largely seen as a sport that resists integration. It is hoped that 2010 will overthrow these perceptions.

Most of the top football teams are based in Johannesburg. The top local teams – Ajax Cape Town (website: www.ajaxct.com) and Santos – feature strongly in the national Castle Premiership league. Football’s governing body, based at Hartleyvale Stadium, Willow Road, Observatory (tel: (021) 448 8652), is the Western Province Football Association (tel: (021) 448 1649).

Other popular sports in Cape Town include cricket, rugby and horseracing.

Cricket was given a great boost after South Africa successfully hosted the World Cup Cricket in 2003. With a strong English colonial history, the city is one of the main feeding grounds for the South African international cricket squad, the Proteas. The home of Western Province cricket is at the Newlands Cricket Ground, 146 Campground Road, Newlands, where the governing body, Western Province Cricket Association, 161 Campground Road (tel: (021) 657 2003; fax: (021) 657 2020; e-mail: info@wpca.co.za; website: www.wpca.cricket.org), is located. Matches are played most weekends in summer, with international tests between South Africa and its main rivals regularly on the agenda. Night cricket is also one of the most popular pastimes in Cape Town and a good excuse to down beer and cheer at every ball that gets hit.

The city is home to one of rugby’s most famous teams, the Stormers (website: www.thestormers.com), who compete with Australian and New Zealand rivals for the top of the Super 12 Log. Newlands Stadium, 11 Boundary Road, Newlands, is home to these local heroes as well as the comprehensive SA Rugby Museum (tel: (021) 659 6768; fax: (021) 686 2151), which is located on the ground floor of the Sport Science Institute; guided tours of the stadium are also available. The home union is the Western Province Rugby Football Union (tel: (021) 659 4600; fax: (021) 659 4601; website: www.wprugby.com).

Horseracing is as much a social event in Cape Town as it is a sporting one. The hugely popular annual J&B Met is held at the Kenilworth Race Track, Rosmead Avenue.

Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase from Computicket (tel: (083) 915 8000; e-mail: info@computicket.com; website: www.computicket.com).

Adventure Sports: The spectacular natural setting of the city means that adventurous sports enjoy a huge following. There are several operators who offer a range of adventure sports, from mountain biking to abseiling, rock climbing to sky diving, hiking to bungee jumping, surfing to shark diving and canyoning (known locally as ‘kloofing’, which entails hiking into remote mountain ranges and then swimming and jumping down the gorges). Daytrippers (tel: (021) 511 4766; fax: (021) 511 4768; e-mail: info@daytrippers.co.za; website: www.daytrippers.co.za) offers hiking and kloofing tours, while Adventure Village Adventure Village (tel: (021) 424 1580; fax: (021) 424 1590; e-mail: info@adventure-village.co.za; website: www.adventure-village.co.za) offers a full range of adventure and extreme sports options, tours and expeditions, including daily abseiling expeditions down the sheer faces of Table Mountain.

Fitness Centres: Virgin Active (tel: (0860) 200 911; website: www.virginactive.co.za) has the monopoly on the fitness centres around the Western Cape, each offering a variety of facilities, including gym, swimming, squash, tennis and other sports. The city-centre club is situated on the Foreshore, 21 Lower Long Street (tel: (021) 421 5857; fax: (021) 419 7319) and includes aerobics, toning and cardio circuits, free weights, a pool, squash, sauna and steam bath facilities. Other club locations include Claremont, corner of Main Road and Brooke Street (tel: (021) 683 2402), Constantia, Main Road (tel: (021) 794 5010), Durbanville Palmgrove Centre, corner of Main Road and Church Street (tel: (021) 975 5210) and N1 City Value Centre, N1 Goodwood (tel: (021) 595 3030). A one-day guest fee is R75.

Golf: There are many golf courses in and around Cape Town and many are open to the public. The Western Province Golf Union, Mowbray Golf Club, Raapenberg Road, Pinelands (tel: (021) 686 1668; fax: (021) 686 1669; e-mail: wpga@global.co.za; website: www.wpgu.co.za) can provide further information.

Eighteen-hole golf courses that are open to the public include the Rondebosch Golf Club, 3 Klipfontein Road (tel: (021) 689 4176/7; fax: (021) 685 1447; e-mail: rgc@mweb.co.za; website: www.rondebosch-golf-club.co.za), the Royal Cape Golf Club, 174 Ottery Road, Wynberg (tel: (021) 761 6551; fax: (021) 797 5246; e-mail: bookings@royalcapegolf.co.za; website: www.royalcapegolf.co.za), and the Clovelly Country Club, Clovelly Road, Clovelly (tel: (021) 782 1118; fax: (021) 782 6853; e-mail: clubhouse@clovelly.co.za; website: www.clovelly.co.za). Green fees vary from R200 to R500 for non-members, depending on the club and season (high season is 1 October to 30 April). Further afield, Spier Country Club, located off the R44 toward Stellenbosch (tel: (021) 809 1100; e-mail: info@spier.co.za; website: www.spier.co.za), is an 18-hole course situated beneath the Helderberg Mountain range, with green fees of R200 for non-members.

Swimming: The Cape Town City Council’s call centre (tel: (086) 010 3089) can provide information on Cape Town’s public swimming pools. Newlands Swimming Pool, Sans Souci Road, Newlands (tel: (021) 674 4197), is the centre of competitive swimming, diving and water polo. The Long Street Baths, Long Street (tel: (021) 400 3302), is an indoor, heated pool, adjacent to the Turkish Baths (tel: (021) 423 9849). Entrance to the pools is R10. Many Virgin Active clubs (see Fitness Centres above) provide excellent swimming facilities. The Camps Bay Tidal Pool, Camps Bay beach (tel: (021) 434 3341), provides alfresco bathing possibilities. The best beach swimming is in the False Bay, at Fish Hoek or the St James tidal pool, although swimmers should not venture out too far as this is shark territory. Bathers should exercise caution at all times and not swim at deserted locations.

Tennis: Although there are scores of recreational tennis clubs dotted around the city, it is extremely difficult to access the courts unless accompanied by a member. Several of the golf clubs (see Golf above) also provide tennis and lawn bowl facilities. Likewise, many of the Virgin Active clubs (see Fitness Centres above) also provide tennis courts, as do several major hotels. Tennis Western Province, Lovers Walk, Rondebosch (tel: (021) 686 3055; fax: (021) 685 5293), can provide further information.

Watersports: Cape Town is an extremely popular destination for watersports enthusiasts. Zandvlei, in Muizenberg, is still quite popular with windsurfing and small craft yachting, although it is largely considered a learning ground for beginners. Hardcore wave freaks prefer to brave the breakers off Bloubergstrand, Milnerton, Long Beach and Cape Point or the Dungeons off Hout Bay. Although conditions can be excellent, False Bay is considered somewhat dangerous, as this is the favourite spot for other watersports enthusiasts, namely Great White Sharks. Downhill Adventures, Shop 10 Overbeek Building, corner of Kloof, Long and Orange Streets (tel: (021) 422 0388; fax: (021) 423 0127; website: www.downhilladventures.com) offers day and multi-day surfing courses with instruction and equipment provided, including transport and lunch. Table Bay Diving, Shop 7, Quay 5, V&A Waterfront (tel: (021) 419 8822; e-mail: info@tablebaydiving.com; website: www.tablebaydiving.com) organises diving charters (including wreck, reef, deep, night and shark cage diving) as well as diving courses. Equipment is available to purchase or hire. Ocean yachting mainly takes place in the Table Bay and False Bay, with regattas held every Wednesday in summer, with the start point at the Royal Cape Yacht Club, Duncan Road, Table Bay (tel: (021) 421 1354; fax: (021) 421 6028; e-mail: info@rcyc.co.za; website: www.rcyc.co.za). The Wind Report (tel: (082) 234 6300) provides regular updates on the wind situation, while the Surf Report (tel: (021) 788 1350) keeps surfers up to date on wave conditions around the peninsula. Surfing information and tips are also available online (website: www.wavescape.co.za).

Shopping

Primarily thanks to the excellent exchange rate, shopping is a popular pastime for visitors to Cape Town. The city has embraced American mall culture with abandon and most shopping precincts in Cape Town have been decentralised to suburban shopping malls, with hundreds of shops under one roof. The most impressive malls are the Victoria Wharf at the V&A Waterfront, Cavendish Square in Claremont, Tyger Valley in the Northern Suburbs and Canal Walk at Century City (see Further Distractions). Nevertheless, there are still scores of little shops to be found, all offering plenty of bargains. And the mall culture cannot hold back the markets, mostly informal, that continue to flourish in the city centre and along main roads in the suburban areas. While shopping malls are generally open 0900-2100 Monday to Saturday and even Sunday 1000-1600, central city hours are 0830-1700 Monday to Friday and 0830-1300 on Saturday. Muslim-owned businesses close 1200-1300 on Friday.

Since the end of apartheid, Cape Town has become a Mecca for traders from all over Africa and it is possible to buy African art from all corners of the continent within a few city blocks. A sightseeing destination in its own right, Greenmarket Square, Shortmarket Street, in the city centre, has a market that is open Monday to Saturday, stocking an eclectic range of goods, including African art, local jewellery, handmade clothing, music, books and antiques. Most of the streets that fan out from Greenmarket Square are also packed with street traders selling African goods, while The Pan African Market, 76 Long Street, is an experience within itself. Wall-to-wall African art and curios crowd into the double-storey labyrinth of shops, open Monday to Saturday. Tiny tin can sculptures sit alongside wooden behemoths of tribal masks, while leathersmiths, hair braiders, djembe drum tutors and West African tailors practise their crafts and an informal caf offers refreshments. For more arts, curios, clothing and crafts, the daily Waterfront Craft Market, located in the Blue Shed at the V&A Waterfront, next to the Two Oceans Aquarium, is just the place for visitors to pick up a few trademark Capetonian gifts. The Green Point Fleamarket, outside Green Point Stadium, Somerset Road, is held every Sunday and public holidays and is the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, boasting a vast number of stalls selling everything from African art and antiques to fake international labels. However, pickpockets like this area even more than bargain hunters do, so be warned.

An excellent lightweight gift that is truly indicative of Cape Town is wire sculpture – from as little as R10 for a wire daisy to R600 for a replica African hut. Streetwires, 77/79 Shortmarket Street (website: www.streetwires.co.za), is an initiative to empower unemployed South Africans and supplies various creative contemporary wire and bead products, which can be made to order. For a tasty South African speciality, biltong (dried raw meat) is available in almost every shopping market throughout the city. Visitors should note, however, that importing biltong might be illegal in some countries. A far safer exportable gift would be wine, which is available en route on a Winelands tour for as little as R20 a bottle. Other South African specialities include Rooibos tea, hand-stitched ostrich leather or African rubber sandals.

The Montebello Design Centre, 31 Newlands Avenue, has wonderful ethnic crafts for sale as well as a charming tearoom, while African Image, Shop 6228 Table Bay Mall, V&A Waterfront (website: www.African-image.co.za), specialises in authentic African tribal art and artefacts – a dream for collectors. Antique lovers should stroll up and down Church Street and the section of Long Street just off Church Street. Also in Long Street, the fashion aficionado will be spellbound by the incredible offerings on show at Yin, 224a Long Street, an eclectic boutique that specialises in clothes designed and handmade by women from various African communities and countries. A vast collection of African music can be perused and purchased at The African Music Store, 90 Long Street.

VAT stands at 14% on all goods sold in Cape Town, although this is largely ignored in the markets, and visitors can reclaim this upon departure for purchases over R250, provided all receipts have been kept, the appropriate tax invoices have been obtained and filled in where necessary, and the goods are exported within 90 days of purchase. These, along with the goods, must be presented to the VAT Refund Administrator at the airport international departures terminal. A refund is then paid after passing through Passport Control. The VAT Refund Office is located at the Cape Town Tourism Centre, First Level, Clock Tower Centre, V&A Waterfront (tel: (021) 405 4545; fax: (021) 405 4587; e-mail: info@taxrefunds.co.za; website: www.taxrefunds.co.za), provides further information and helps with the necessary paperwork beforehand.

Culture

There are many cultural influences at work in Cape Town, which makes the city a particularly interesting one for the arts. Like many other South African cities, Cape Town has endured a turbulent cultural ride over the past decade, as the cultural voice of the city has slowly made itself heard over the clamour of inequality and long-standing prejudices. The large cultural organisations so reminiscent of the past have successfully diversified and everywhere small projects and artistic developments pop up to thrill and entertain all manner of culture vultures – hilarious comedy acts, large-scale operas, art exhibitions, intimate theatre performance and poetry readings can all be found in a number of venues. Cape Town is growing daily as a culturally rich and diverse city.

Cape Town’s two biggest contributions to South African culture have probably been in the fine arts and in the unique Cape jazz style, epitomised by musicians like Abdullah Ibrahim, Basil ‘Manenberg’ Coetzee and Robbie Jansen.

The city’s two major cultural centres are the Baxter Theatre Centre, Main Road, Rondebosch (tel: (021) 685 7880; fax: (021) 689 1880; website: www.baxter.co.za), and the Artscape Theatre Centre, 1–10 DF Malan Street, Foreshore (tel: (021) 410 9800 or 421 7839; fax: (021) 421 5448; e-mail: artscape@artscape.co.za; website: www.artscape.co.za).

All major cultural events can be booked through Computicket (tel: (083) 915 8000; e-mail: info@computicket.com; website: www.computicket.com). Tickets for Artscape events are available through Artscape Dial-A-Seat (tel: (021) 421 7695).

Listings information can be found in the Friday editions of the daily press – The Cape Argus and Cape Times. These are both subsidiaries of The Independent and listings also can be found online (website: www.tonight.co.za). The bi-monthly Cape Etc and monthly SA Citylife publications are excellent sources of information and listings for Cape Town’s nightlife. The Mail & Guardian (website: www.mg.co.za) also has cultural listings for Cape Town. Other websites with listings include www.artthrob.co.za, www.ananzi.co.za and www.capetowntoday.co.za. A good online events guide is www.capetownevents.co.za.

Music: The Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (021) 410 9809; fax: (021) 425 1009; e-mail: capephil@artscape.co.za; website: www.capephilharmonic.org.za) performs regularly at the City Hall, Grand Parade (tel: (021) 465 2029), and the Artscape Theatre Centre (see above), as well as various other venues – details are published in the local press. The Artscape Theatre Centre (see above) opera house features regular opera from the groundbreaking Cape Town Opera (tel: (021) 410 9800; fax: (021) 425 3623: website: www.capetownopera.co.za), famous for successfully ‘Africanising’ the classics. Both the Artscape and Baxter venues (see above) host classical music, jazz and popular music. Regular performances also take place at the South African College of Music, off Woolsack Drive, Rosebankl (tel: (021) 650 2626; fax: (021) 650 2627; e-mail: hodmusic@protem.uct.ac.za; website: www.uct.ac.za/depts/sacm).

Further afield, the Spier complex, Lynedoch Road, Stellenbosch (tel: (021) 809 1100; e-mail: info@spier.co.za; website: www.spier.co.za), one of the oldest wine cellars in the country, is now well established as one of the Cape’s major performing arts and music centres, largely thanks to the annual summer festival taking place from November to March.

Theatre: Besides the Baxter and Artscape venues (see above), which both host regular and varied theatrical productions and stand-up comedy acts, the Theatre on the Bay, 1 Link Street, Camps Bay (tel: (021) 438 3301; fax: (021) 438 1998; e-mail: info@theatreonthebay.co.za; website: www.theatreonthebay.co.za), is the city’s other major theatre, staging popular and contemporary theatre, as well as cabaret and music.

Dance: Cape Town’s premier contemporary dance company, Jazzart (tel: (021) 410 9848 or 9828; fax: (021) 419 1907; e-mail: dance@jazzart.co.za; website: www.jazzart.co.za), stages regular performances at Artscape Theatre Centre (see above) and other venues. Visiting national and international dance and ballet troupes frequently appear at the Baxter and Artscape venues (see above). The Cape Town City Ballet (tel: (021) 650 2400 or 4672; fax: (021) 650 3527; e-mail: info@capetowncityballet.org.za; website: www.capetowncityballet.org.za) is based at the UCT School of Dance, Lovers Walk, Rosebank and performs at the Artscape Theatre Centre opera house and the delightful Maynardville Open-Air Theatre, Maynardville Park, corner of Church and Wolfe Streets, Wynberg; tickets for both venues are available through Artscape-Dial-a-Seat (tel: (021) 421 7695).

Film: Although Cape Town has a huge film and television industry, locally made feature films mainly come out of Johannesburg. The South African film industry, although packed with new talent, is yet to receive the necessary funding and attention it deserves to truly take off. Nevertheless, one of the city’s favourite pastimes is cinema. Every major shopping centre has a cinema complex showing mainstream movies, either run by Ster-Kinekor (tel: (082) 16789 (ticketline); website: www.sterkinekor.co.za) or Nu-Metro (tel: (086) 110 0200; website: www.numetro.co.za), with advance booking through Computicket (tel: (083) 915 8000; e-mail: info@computicket.com; website: www.computicket.com).

Ster-Kinekor outlets are located in various shopping centres, including Blue Route, Tokai Road and Cavendish Square Commercial, Cavendish Square, Dreyer Street, Claremont. A 17-screen Nu-Metro Multiplex is located at Canal Walk, Century City. Nu-Metro also provides the big-screen thrills at Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront and N1 City, Louwtjie Rothman Street, Goodwood. Arthouse and independent films are equally well catered for, with Ster Kinekor’s Cinema Nouveau outlets located at Cavendish Nouveau, Cavendish Square, Dreyer Street, Claremont and V&A Nouveau, Kings Warehouse, V&A Waterfront.

The Labia Theatre, 68 Orange Street (tel: (021) 424 5927; e-mail: labiatheatre@labia.co.za; website: www.labia.co.za), is the city’s oldest and most Bohemian arthouse movie theatre. The movie house has recently expanded and now has a second two-screen outlet on Kloof Street. Another popular arthouse spot is the Independent Armchair Theatre, 135 Lower Main Road, Observatory (tel: (021) 447 1514).

Although foreign film crews flock to Cape Town, it seldom appears as a definite setting for a movie. The city and scenery are often used, although masquerading as another location. For instance, those familiar with the white-sand beauty of Long Beach will easily recognise the beachscape (particularly the famous wreck) when watching some scenes of David Lean’s classic Ryan’s Daughter (1970), which is set in Ireland, although partly filmed in Cape Town. Most recently, the remake of the Poseidon Adventure (1972) is currently being filmed in the city. Possibly Cape Town’s most famous and internationally known son, the Shakespearean actor Sir Anthony Sher, was born in Sea Point. Other actors associated with the city include Sir Nigel Hawthorne, who was raised in Cape Town and studied at the University of Cape Town, and cult actor Richard E Grant, who also attended university in the city.

Cultural Events: There are many cultural, sporting and trade events taking place throughout the city all year round (website: www.capetownevents.co.za). Among the scores of food and wine festivals, flower shows and dog shows, there is the annual summer Maynardville Shakespeare Season, which takes place at the Maynardville Open-Air Theatre, Maynardville Park, corner of Church and Wolfe Streets, Wynberg (tel: (021) 410 9800), in January and February. One of the most popular annual cultural events of the season is Kirstenbosch Appeltiser Summer Sunset Concerts (tel: (021) 799 8783 or 8620; website: www.kirstenbosch.co.za), held at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens every Sunday 1730-1830, from late November to early April. Crowds of over 5,000 picnickers start gathering from early afternoon, to enjoy an eclectic evening of classical, ethnic, jazz and popular music. The March Cape Town Festival (tel: (021) 465 9042; fax: (021) 465 9043; e-mail: info@capetownfestival.co.za; website: www.capetownfestival.co.za) celebrates the diversity of the city’s people through music, dance, drama, film and other cultural and religious events featuring local artists and personalities. The oldest and arguably the most quintessentially Capetonian cultural event is the Kaapse Klopse (also, somewhat controversially, known as the ‘Coon Carnival’). This carnival originates from the days of slavery in Cape Town, when the Malay slaves paraded through the streets on the Tweede Nuwe Jaar (Second New Year). The event is largely the mainstay of Cape Town’s ‘Cape coloured’ community, who dress up in elaborate costumes and paint their faces to march in a noisy, jazzy, jubilant and colourful parade through the streets of Cape Town, past the Grand Parade to Green Point Stadium, where prizes are awarded for the best costumes. This is a particularly pertinent event, seeing as it stood the test not only of time but also of apartheid oppression.

Literary Notes: Ever since Sir Francis Drake describe the Cape Peninsula as ‘the most stately thing and the fairest cape in all the whole circumference of the earth’, Cape Town has featured strongly in international literature. Most often, the city has been used as a metaphor for the system of apartheid and as a symbol of white oppression in black Africa. However, since the release of Nelson Mandela and the end of apartheid, Cape Town has become a symbol of freedom and democracy, with many of the major political works on South Africa (by figures such as Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu and Govan Mbeki) written in the city.

The writer who has, perhaps more than any other, defined South African literature is J M Coetzee – twice winner of the Booker Prize for literature. His novels, which include Disgrace (1999), Foe (1986), Waiting for the Barbarians (1980), The Life and Times of Michael K (1983) and Dusklands (1974), go to the very heart of the South African psyche and delve deep into the political and social landscape of the country. Coetzee was born in Cape Town and was professor of English at the University of Cape Town, before following the white South African trend of immigrating to Australia. Another literary figure at the university is Andr P Brink, three-time winner of South Africa’s premier literary prize, the CNA Award, twice shortlisted for the Booker Prize and winner of the 1980 Martin Luther King Memorial Prize. Brink’s novels include Looking on Darkness (1974), Rumours of Rain (1978), A Dry White Season (1979), An Act of Terror (1991) and Rights of Desire (2000). Jakes Mda is an internationally acclaimed and award-winning Capetonian poet, playwright and novelist, whose works include Heart of Redness (2000), She Plays With the Darkness (1995) and Ways of Dying (1995).

South Africa’s premier playwright, Athol Fugard, based his powerful two-man play, The Island (1973), on the political incarcerations on Robben Island. Lesser known internationally but the unofficial king of Cape Town musicals, David Kramer penned a magnificent memoir of Cape Town’s darkest moment when he captured not only the grief, hatred and confusion of the relocations but also the spirit and wonder of this tragic area in his musical collaboration with Taliep Petersen, District Six (1987). Kramer has also achieved acclaim for his musical Karoo Kitaar Blues (2002) and has exported his work to London stages.

Another lesser known Capetonian writer who has caught a remarkable and perceptive glimpse of the city is Menn du Plessis: her novels, Longlive! (1989) and A State of Fear (1983) both focus on various lives, perceptions and personal struggles in a politically turbulent Cape Town during the 1980s. On a more factual level, in A Mouthful of Glass (1998), Dutch writer Henk van Woerden documents with clarity and remarkable sensitivity the events that took place in Cape Town, when Demitrios Tsafendas stabbed the then Prime Minister, Hendrik Verwoerd, in the chamber of the South African Parliament in 1966.

Nightlife

Cape Town is a party town, especially in summer, when tens of thousands of tourists (foreign and local) descend upon the city. But even during winter, the action never stops. The city has also become an international Mecca for DJs, running huge rave, trance and ambient parties – often held in stunning locations on beaches or in forests. The city is also firmly entrenched on the international rock music touring circuit.

Much of the nightlife activity is concentrated on a handful of popular city streets and suburbs. Long Street and Kloof Street in the city centre are alive with restaurants, live music clubs, bars, coffee shops and the occasional strip club. On the outskirts of the city centre, the De Waterkant/Green Point area has a string of gay and gay-friendly clubs and restaurants, while the V&A Waterfront is simply awash with nightlife hotspots popular with both tourists and locals. The Camps Bay beachfront brings LA-style outfits, trendy restaurants and some stunning sunsets to Cape Town. Heading towards the southern suburbs, Lower Main Road in the suburb of Observatory is another gay-friendly area and the territory of Cape Town’s students, offering up a more Bohemian and laid-back style of entertainment. This is the place for local alternative music, slightly seedy pool halls, philosophy, poetry, stand-up comedy and vegetarian food. On the N1 highway, north of the city centre, the Century City development combines a state-of-the-art amusement park with scores of restaurants, several sound stages and the Dockside multi-level club and live music venue. The seaside suburbs of Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town, although traditionally family orientated and ‘dry’, are becoming increasingly trendy for nightlife beyond the city limits – although this is largely centred upon restaurants.

There are no strict licensing hours in Cape Town and many clubs stay open until the small hours and even sunrise. The dress code is almost always as casual as you wish, although shorts and trainers are not appreciated in some venues and a ‘no effort no entry’ rule is sometimes enforced. Admission prices to clubs and raves range from R20 to R200 – many are free before 2300. The legal drinking age is 18 years, although some pubs demand a 21- or even 25-year age limit for entrance. Alcohol is extremely cheap for foreigners, at approximately R10 for a beer purchased in a bar.

The bi-monthly Cape Etc and monthly SA Citylife publications are excellent sources of information and listings for Cape Town’s nightlife. The Friday editions of the Cape Times and The Cape Argus newspapers, as well as the weekly Mail & Guardian, all have arts and entertainment sections. Information on Cape Town’s club scene is available online (website: www.clubbersguide.co.za).

Bars: In the city centre, the Long Street Caf, 259 Long Street, is one of the trendiest haunts in town, while Caf Bardeli, Longkloof Studios, Kloof Street, is where Cape Town’s media and modelling community strut their stuff and sip fantastic summer cocktails and a DJ entertains on Friday nights. The equally trendy Caf Camissa, 80 Kloof Street, features live music