World City Guide

Mini Guide of Budapest

City Overview

Any visit to Budapest reveals a city that is going places. Communism is well and truly history – the young are eager to adopt Western European values, while remaining in an obsessive relationship with Hungary’s fascinating past. The traditions and history of the Magyar people are still vitally important, as is the ubiquitous mobile phone.

The key to Budapest lies in its history, marked by alternate periods of great wealth and prosperity and devastating eras of political and social upheaval. Repeated warfare was inevitable due to the strategic location of Budapest, spreading out on either side of the River Danube (Duna) in the heart of Europe, offering a defensive position and potential control of Central Europe’s main waterway.

The Magyars view their history not in black and white but in gold and silver. The first Golden Age coincided with the reign of Renaissance King Matys (1458-90). The second Golden Age was symbolised by the 1896 Millennium celebration in Vrosliget (City Park) and the Silver Age was the 20th-century inter-war period, when the likes of Evelyn Waugh and the Prince of Wales frequented Budapest’s spas and casinos. Balanced against the good times, however, there is the Turkish victory over the Hungarians in 1526 (with the ensuing rebuilding of Buda as a Turkish capital) the Hapsburg rule that continued to deprive Hungary of its autonomy until 1867, the devastation caused by World War II and Russian control, only lifted in 1989. These significant events have turned the Hungarians into a flexible and resilient race, proud of their national heroes – Count Istvn Szchenyi (1791-1860), responsible for the first bridge across the River Danube, and the poet Sndor Petofi, remembered for his revolutionary Nemzeti dal (National Song), read on the steps of the National Museum on 15 March 1848.

The modern Budapest was born in 1873, when Buda, buda and Pest were officially joined. Today, the city is composed of 23 districts (kerletek), each designated on maps, street signs and addresses by Roman numerals (I to XXIII). Buda and Pest still remain distinct, however, creating an interesting west bank-east bank contrast. Hilly Buda is situated in the west, with its narrow cobbled streets and mixture of medieval and neo-classical buildings almost totally reconstructed after World War II. Flat Pest lies to the east, with its wide boulevards and Art Deco styles. The city is a mixture of Turkish, Venetian, Empire and Art Nouveau in a crazy mosaic of mismatching styles. Perhaps the Hilton Hotel combines the oddest example, with its 13th-century Gothic church, 17th-century faade and gleaming modern glass and concrete.

Budapest has a continental climate, with extreme differences in temperature between the winter and summer months. Snowfall is frequent in winter and rain is fairly common all year round. Two and a half million people (roughly one-fifth of the country’s population) live in this cosmopolitan city, making Budapest the political, intellectual, commercial and cultural capital of Hungary.

Hungary joined the EU in May this year (2004) and the streets of the capital are sure to get more crowded as Westerners discovers the charms of a city that not only boasts beautiful architecture but also offers visitors top attractions. The Hungarian Tourist Board is doing a lot to promote the country abroad, and Budapest is already proving increasingly popular as a business destination& it won’t be long until leisure travellers follow suit.

Getting There By Air

Budapest Ferihegy (BUD)
Tel: (01) 296 9696.
Website: www.bud-airport.hu

Ferihegy airport is located 24km (15 miles) southeast of Budapest. There are two terminals, approximately 4km (2.5 miles) apart. Terminal 1, which is for cargo freight planes, will be closed from the autumn until summer 2005. Terminal 2A is for the national airline Malv (www.malev.com) (and partner airlines, such as Lufthansa, Delta and Alitalia), while terminal 2B is used by all other airlines. In 2003, 5 million passengers used Ferihegy airport, which provides good links with Western and Eastern Europe.

Approximate flight times to Budapest: From London is 2 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 9 hours 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 19 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 9 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 26 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a duty-free shop, florist, newsagent, restaurant, bar, gift shop, post office, bureaux de change, banks and car hire. There is also a business lounge, and left-luggage facilities are available.

Transport to the city: The easiest way to the city centre from Ferihegy is by LRI’s Airport Minibus Shuttle (tel: (01) 296 8555), which takes visitors to any address in the city (journey time – approximately 40 minutes). The bus operates every half an hour, daily 0530-2100. Single (Ft2100) or return (Ft3600) tickets can be purchased from LRI’s passenger service desks or booked before departure. The service also picks up passengers at hotels or private addresses for the return flight. The Budapest Card (see Sightseeing) includes travel on the Minibus Shuttle.

Centrum Minibuses (also operated by LRI) depart every 30 minutes for Erzsbet tr bus station, tickets are sold on the bus. The public bus 93 travels to Kobnya-Kispest metro station (passengers may wish to alight at Dek tr, where all three metro lines converge). Buses with the number 93 displayed in black serve only Ferihegy terminal one, buses with a red 93 serve both terminals. This is a cheap alternative to and from the airport, but the journey takes over an hour.

Taxis are available at all times.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Traffic drives on the right. Motorways are marked by ‘M’ and international roads by ‘E’. Minor roads are designated by two or more digit numbers. Most motorways are toll-free, with the exception of the M5 from Budapest to Kecskemt, the Gyor-Hegyeshalom stretch of the M1 and the M3 between Budapest and Fzesabony. In 2000, motorway vignettes (passes) were introduced on the M1 and M3. Vignettes can be purchased at the Hegyeshalom border crossing point, at the former motorway gates and at filling stations near the motorways. On the spot fines are issued for those who travel without one.

The minimum age for driving in Budapest is 17 years. Speed limits are 120kph (74mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on dual carriageways, 80kph (50mph) on main roads and 50kph (30 mph) in built-up areas. Seatbelts are compulsory in the front seats and outside built-up areas for passengers in the back seats. There is a total alcohol ban when driving – licences are withdrawn if drivers are found to be under the influence of alcohol. On-the-spot fines are issued and the police officer must provide a receipt.

The pink format EU licence is accepted but an International Driving Permit (IDP) is required if a green UK licence is held. A car registration document and country sticker are also necessary. Third-party liability insurance is compulsory. For drivers based in Hungary for over six months, customs clearance must be sought.

There are 24-hour emergency phone lines located every two kilometres (1.25 miles) along motorways M1, M5, M7 and Road 5. Magyar Autklub (tel: (01) 345 1800; website: www.autoklub.hu) has reciprocal agreements with many automobile associations and provides a 24-hour breakdown service.

Emergency breakdown service:
Magyar Autklub (01) 345 1755

Routes to the city: Hungary has eight main routes, seven of which start from Budapest. The road numbering goes clockwise from the west towards the south. The M0 ring road around Budapest eases access to destinations in the city. Approaching Budapest, the two main highways are the M1 (from where the E65 and D1 to Brno lead to the D1 to Prague) from Gyor and Vienna, and the M7 along Lake Balaton. The A4 from Vienna leads to the Austro/Hungarian frontier at Hegyeshalom, from where the M1 toll road leads to Budapest. The M3 connects Budapest with eastern Hungary. Warsaw is reachable on the E77.

Approximate driving times to Budapest: From Prague – 7 hours 40 minutes; from Vienna – 2 hours 45 minutes; from Warsaw – 11 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Volnbusz Rt (tel: (01) 219 8080; website: www.volanbusz.hu) operates international services to 20 countries in Europe, including the UK. Erzsbet tr coach station, Erzsbet tr, provides information on services to Western Europe, while Npstadion coach station, Hungria krt 48-52, provides information on services to Eastern Europe. Volnbusz also operates several services to Hungarian towns and resorts. Services to the west are provided from Erzsbet tr coach station, while services to the east are from Npstadion coach station and services to the Danube Bend from rpd hd coach station, rpd hd.

Getting There By Rail

The service on Hungarian State Railways (MV), VI Andrssy t 35 (tel: (01) 322 8405; website: www.mav.hu), is far from luxurious but trains are generally clean and punctual. Not all express trains have dining or buffet cars and overcharging, especially for drinks, occurs frequently – it is better for visitors to bring their own food and drink on long journeys. Tickets for international journeys should be purchased 24-36 hours in advance. Reservations on all international trains can be made with MV (tel: (01) 333 6342) and seat reservations are strongly advised for all services. Tickets are also available for purchase from the MV booking office, V Andrssy t 35 (tel: (01) 322 0856). There are separate telephone numbers for international rail enquiries (tel: (01) 461 5500) and national rail enquiries (tel: (01) 461 5400).

MV directs the three large international railway stations in Budapest – Keleti plyaudvar (eastern station), VIII Baross tr, Nyugati plyaudvar (western station), VI Nyugati tr, and Dli plyaudvar (southern station), I Krisztina krt. All three stations have exchange facilities and tourist information services. Keleti and Nyugati have 24-hour left-luggage facilities.

Rail services: Direct rail links connect Hungary to 16 European cities, with 51 international scheduled trains arriving at Budapest. Keleti is the principal terminus for international rail services from Western Europe, including Berlin (journey time – 12 hours) and Paris (journey time – 15.5 hours). Nyugati is the main terminus for trains heading east to Romania and Slovakia, for destinations such as Bucharest (journey time – 14 hours 15 minutes to 18 hours) and Bratislava (journey time – 3 hours). There are also rail links to southern Hungary, Croatia and Slovenia, to destinations such as Zagreb (journey time – 5 hours 30 minutes) and Ljubljana (journey time – 6 hours 15 minutes).

Transport to the city: Keleti, Dli and Nyugati are directly connected by metro to Dek tr in the Belvros (inner city).

Getting Around

Public Transport
Budapest’s cheap and effective transport system is run by Budapesti Kozlekedsi Vllalat – BKV (tel: (01) 317 5518 or 269 6869; website: www.bvk.hu). The network includes the metro, trams, buses, trolley buses (a cross between a bus and a tram) and trains. In summer, there are also BKV Danube ferries. There is also a limited night bus service, all of which are marked with ‘’.

There are three metro lines (M1 yellow, M2 red, and M3 blue) that intersect at Dek tr. The M1, built for the 1896 exhibition, is the oldest line. The other lines still have Russian trains.

The BKV Cog-wheel Railway (Fogaskerek vast) operates from Vrosmajor utca to Szchenyi Hill daily.

Tickets are available for purchase at metro stations, some tram stops and newspaper stands. Tickets are valid for one trip on one mode of transport and must be validated on the bus or tram, or when changing lines on the metro. Single tickets, ticket booklets and a day pass (napijegy) are available. Three-day and weekly tourist passes require a photo. Travelling without a ticket attracts a fine.

The Gyermekvast or Children’s Railway (tel: (01) 397 5392; website: www.gyermekvasut.com) was formerly run by the Communist youth organisation and is still largely run by children of ten to 14 years old, although it is overseen by MAV (see Getting There By Rail). The train runs from the Hvsvlgy district to Szchenyi Hill.

A BKV chair-lift (libego) runs daily, September to May from the Zugliget district to Jnos Hill – the highest point of Budapest. The 100m (328ft) funicular (sikl) runs up from Clark dm tr to the Castle District.

HV trains are Budapest’s commuter suburban train lines. The two northern lines connect with the metro at Batthyny tr, while the four eastern and southern lines can only be reached by tram. The line to Szentendre at Batthyny tr (see Excursions) is the best of the six lines and is probably the only line visitors will use.

Taxis
Taxis without a yellow number plate, which is required by law, as well as a reputable logo on the side doors and a table of fares posted on the dashboard should be avoided. Visitors should ask the driver for a taxi card, for a better fare on the next journey.

Recognised companies include Rdi Taxi (tel: (01) 377 7777; website: www.radiotaxi.hu), one of the cheapest and most reliable firms, offering significant discounts if taxis are ordered by telephone; Fo Taxi (tel: (01) 222 2222; website: www.fotaxi.hu), recognised by their red and white checkered doors; and the English-speaking City Taxi (tel: (01) 211 1111) which also have a reputation for being trustworthy.

Driving in the City
Central streets are frequently jammed due to roadwork, cobblestones make for a jolting journey and the tram lines and unusual Hungarian driving techniques can make navigating the city a hair-raising experience. There are numerous traffic restrictions in Budapest. Only taxis and cars with a special permit are allowed into the Castle District – the Vrbusz (Castle Bus) service runs from Moszkva tr to Szent Gyorgy tr. Margaret Island can only be accessed from rpd hd, as far as the car park outside the hotels – bus 26 crosses the island. Traffic is also limited in some parts of buda Island, the Npliget, the Inner City, Vrosliget and the Rmai area.

Ingenuity is required if one is to find parking spaces in Budapest. Vehicles are not permitted to park for longer than three hours in central parking lots and clamping and towing away are enforced, with a hefty charge for release. Parking meters often display the phone number for wheel clamping release and cars that are towed away can also be traced by telephone (tel: (01) 307 5208). There are four large car parks, which are located on V. Aranykz utca 406, V Szervita tr 8, VII Nyr utca 20 and VIII Klvin tr. The hourly rate is more expensive in secure car parks. Cars should be locked and alarmed and valuables or radios should not be left on display inside at all times.

Car Hire
Visitors to Budapest are advised to arrange car hire prior to arrival, in order to save money and avoid the inevitable problem of the language barrier. It is also wise for hirers to ensure that the price quoted is inclusive of fa (VAT). The majority of hire cars in Budapest have manual transmission. A valid national driver’s licence is required and a credit card is usually requested for the deposit. The minimum age for car hire is 21 years, although some hire companies require drivers to be over 25. Extra charges are made for additional drivers. Third-party liability insurance is compulsory in Hungary and, in some cases, the hire price will include this.

Car hire is available at Ferihegy airport or at Voln, Express and Budapest tourist offices, as well as at large hotels. Major companies include Avis, V Szervita tr 8 (tel: (01) 318 4240; website: www.avis.com), Budget, I Krisztina krt 41-43 (tel: (01) 214 0420; website: www.budget.hu), and Sixt, I Vaci ut 45/b (tel: (01) 451 4220; website: www.e-sixt.com).

Bicycle Hire
Although there are some bicycle lanes, Budapest is not cycle friendly, although a major initiative to build more cycle lanes in underway. Cyclists should aquire the ‘Budapest on Bike Map’ (Kerkprral Budapesten) showing bike lanes and trails throughout the city.

Bringhint, Hajs Alfrd stny 1 (tel: (01) 329 2746; website: www.bringohinto.hu), on Margaret Island (which is closed to cars), hires bicycles and tandems in the summer. A deposit and a passport or ID cards are requested. Bikes are also available for hire from Charles Apartment House, I Hegyalja t 23 (tel. (01) 201 1796 or (01) 202 3414; website: www.charleshotel.hu).

Business

Business Etiquette
The dwellers of Budapest like to do business with people they know and trust, so it is worth business visitors’ time taking the time to build relationships. This is particularly true of the older generation – the younger generation are usually more direct and to the point. They are also much more likely to speak English. These 20 and 30 year olds occupy important positions, which the older school resents. Verbal greetings are extremely important – shaking hands (one waits for women to offer their hands), then saying the full name (surname, then forename). ‘How are you?’ is not a rhetorical question and requires an answer. Business cards (nvjegy) (preferably in Hungarian) are vital. One also shakes hands on leaving. Punctuality is essential. Giving and receiving gifts is common, so one should have promotional gifts at hand.

Hungarian is a difficult language but, contrary to popular opinion, it is not impossible to learn. A lack of knowledge of the language, culture and business context is often seen as a sign of arrogance and can also lead to social segregation. Asking a colleague to act as a translator (tolmc) can often lead to resentment, since this is seen as servicing rather than managing. Imposition of additional red tape is seen as a lack of trust and being overly confident is often regarded as naivety

Hospitality is extremely important and dinners tend to be quite formal affairs with a dress code. One should never drink until one’s host raises his glass, possibly with a toast. When visiting a colleague’s home, gifts should include wine or spirits for the host, flowers for the hostess and chocolates for the children.

Business clothing should exhibit a refined elegance. Mobile phones are an important part of one’s personal presentation. The business year is busiest in spring and autumn. Standard working hours are generally 0800-1630 Monday to Thursday, finishing earlier on Friday, however, meetings can be fixed outside these hours, even at weekends. The distinction between office and home phone numbers is far from clear – keeping in touch is vital and calls in the evening and at weekends are common.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
The Szchenyi Lnchd (Chain Bridge) is the central point of Budapest. From here, hilly Buda is to the west and the plains of commercial Pest are to the east. A steep climb in the Sikl, the 19th-century funicular, leads to Buda’s Vrhegy (Castle Hill), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where many attractions are clustered. Szenthromsg tr (Trinity Square) is at the heart of the district and usually thronging with tourists. Nearby is the mosaic-roofed Mtys templom (Matthias Church), fronted by King Stephen’s statue and the fairytale Halszbstya (Fishermen’s Bastion), with the best views of Pest – particularly of the Orszghz (Houses of Parliament). A mass of museums are housed within Budavri Palota (Buda Castle Palace), first built by Bla III, following the Mongol invasion in the 13th century, and reconstructed over the centuries. South of the Chain Bridge lies Gellrt-hegy (Gellrt Hill), named after Bishop Gellrt, who was (as legend has it) rolled off the hillside in a barrel for converting the Magyars to Christianity. At the summit are the Liberation Monument and Citadella, a Hapsburg fortress built to subdue the Magyars after the 1848-9 revolution. Nearby are some of Budapest’s oldest spas – the Rudas and Rc baths – enjoyed during the Turkish occupation (1526-1699), as well as the Hotel Gellrt, which was built in 1913.

From here, Szabadsg hd leads to Pest, which extends out from the Belvros (inner city). The busiest parts are the shop-lined Vci utca and the square, Vrsmarty tr, marked by a statue of the poet, Mihly Vrsmarty (1800-1855), and the location of the Gerbeaud ptisserie. The most grandiose monument in Pest, Hosk tere (Heroes’ Square), is reached via Andrssy t, home to the Opera House. The Szpmvszeti Mzeum (Museum of Fine Arts) and Mcsarnok (Palace of Art) border the monument and Vrosliget (City Park) is just behind it. Warm vapours rising from underground hot springs swirl up into the square, which is much favoured by teenage skateboarders. Moving closer to the River Danube lies the Dohny Synagogue, the second largest in Europe, as well as the small Jewish quarter (district VII). Further south is the Magyar Nemzeti Mzeum (Hungarian National Museum). The reconstructed remains of the capital of the Roman province of Pannonia lie in northern Budapest’s buda district.

Tourist Information
Budapest Tourism Office
H-1364 Budapest Pf 215
Tel: (01) 266 0479. Fax: (01) 266 7477.
E-mail: info@budapestinfo.hu
Website: www.budapestinfo.hu

IBUSZ tourist office, V. Ferenciek tr 10, and Budapest Tourist, Roosevelt tr 5 (by the Chain Bridge) and VIII Baross tr 3 (near Keleti station), also provide tourist information. The main information office of the Budapest Tourism Office is located in Liszt Ferenc tr 9-11 (tel: (01) 322 4098). Other offices can be found in the main hall of Nyugati station (tel: (01) 302 8580), at Budars in the AGIP Complex, VII Kirly utca, and the Castle District, I Tarnok utca 9-11.

Passes
The Budapest Card is simple to use and excellent value. The card provides free travel on public transport, entrance to 60 museums and attractions (such as the Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest Zoo and the Museum of Fine Art) half-price city sightseeing programmes, reductions on cultural and folklore programmes and further discounts at spas, shops, restaurants, airport minibus and car hire services, sports facilities and flights. Full details are provided in the information guide that accompanies the card. The Budapest Card costs Ft4,350 for two days and Ft5,450 for three days and is valid for one adult and one child under 14 years. Cards are available at tourist information offices, hotels and at main underground ticket booths. Budapest Tourism Office provides online details of the discounts available at each location. More information on the Budapest Card is available (tel: (01) 266 0479).

Key Attractions

Szchenyi Lnchd (Chain Bridge)
Eight bridges link Buda to Pest but the Chain Bridge is the first and most famous, with its solid arches and lion statues. Count Istvn Szchenyi commissioned the Englishman responsible for London’s Hammersmith Bridge, William Tierney Clark, to design a bridge, after his father's funeral was delayed by a week while his son attempted to cross the Danube in particularly bad weather. Completed in 1848, the bridge was inaugurated in 1849, allowing for the integration of Buda, Pest and buda in 1872. The Nazis having done considerable damage, the bridge was repaired and re-inaugurated on 21 November 1949. Adam Clark is honoured in a small square at the foot of the bridge. The kilometre zero, the point from which all distances from Budapest are measured, is located here.

1 Clark dm tr
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Budavri Palota (Buda Royal Palace)
First inhabited by King Bla IV, after the 1241 Mongol invasion, the Royal Palace had its heyday during King Mtys’s reign (1458-90). In the late 18th century, Empress Maria Theresa rebuilt and enlarged the palace. The Royal Palace has risen Phoenix-like from the ashes of many wars – the Turkish siege (1541) and invasion (1686), the 1848-49 War of Independence and the latter stages of World War II. The result is a hotchpotch of styles from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, ranging from Baroque to modern. Within the palace’s partially reconstructed walls, lies a vast museum complex, which includes three museums (Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum, Budapest History Museum; Ludwig Mzeum, Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art; and the Magyar Nemzeti Galria, the Hungarian National Gallery) and the National Szchenyi Library.

The Budapest History Museum, in the southern part of the palace, traces the city’s history from Buda’s liberation from the Turks in 1686, to the 1970s. The Ludwig Mzeum, in the palace’s northern wing, is named after its patron, Peter Ludwig, whose donations include Picasso, Warhol and Lichenstein. Eastern European paintings and sculpture provide a fascinating critique of crumbling communism. The Hungarian National Gallery is situated at the core of the palace. The encyclopaedic collection of Hungarian art from the 10th century to the present day portrays battles, both victorious and disastrous, romantic rural scenes and religious medieval altar paintings, providing a valuable insight into the Hungarian national identity. Visitors to the palace can book a tour, with an English-speaking guide, in advance.

I Budavri Palota, Dsz tr 17
Cars forbidden.

Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum (Budapest History Museum)
I Budavri Palota (Wing E), Szent Gyrgy tr 2
Tel: (01) 225 7809.
Website: www.btm.hu
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb); Wed-Mon 1000-1800 (Mar-Oct).
Admission charge.

Ludwig Mzeum
I Budavri Palota (Wing A), Szent Gyrgy tr 2
Tel: (01) 375 7533/9175.
Website: www.c3.hu/~ludwig
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission charge.

Magyar Nemzeti Galria (Hungarian National Gallery)
I Budavri Palota (Wings B, C, D), Dsz tr 17
Tel: (01) 375 7533 or 224 3700.
Website: www.mng.hu
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (Apr-Oct); Tues-Sun 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.

National Szchenyi Library
I Budavri Palota (Wing F), Dsz tr or Palota tca
Tel: (01) 224 3700.
Website: www.oszk.hu
Opening hours: Mon 1300-2100, Tues-Fri 0900-2100, Sat 0900-1700 (Oct-Jun); Mon 1300-2100, Tues, Wed and Sat 0900-1700, Thurs and Fri 0900-2100 (Jul and Sep); closed Aug.
Admission: Free. Charge for special exhibitions.

Mtys Templom (Matthias Church)
The Zsolnay pyrogranite tiles of Matthias Church are as colourful and richly patterned as snakeskin. Inside is a melange of styles from the 13th to the 19th centuries. It is thought that a church was first built on this site in 1015, by King Istvn. The Renaissance King Mtys Corvinus was crowned here in 1458, aged 14 years, and married twice within its walls. When the Turks occupied the Castle District in 1541, the church was turned into a mosque and the walls painted with extracts from the Koran. The building suffered in the 1686 siege of Buda and was restored in the 19th century by Frigyes Schulek, who uncovered remains of medieval wall paintings, vaulting and statuary, adding a few of his own gargoyles for good luck. In the 20th century, the church was used as a kitchen by occupying German forces, and later as stables by the Russians. Beyond the altar is the entrance to the Church Museum, which gives access to the underground crypts, chapel, jewels and the skull of the wife of King Mtys’s brother. High Mass takes place on Sunday at 1000. There are frequent summer concerts on Friday at 2000.

I Szenthromsg tr 2
Tel: (01) 355 5657.
Website: www.matyas-templom.hu
Opening hours: Daily 0700-2000 (church); daily 0930-1730 (treasury).
Admission charge.

Fishermen's Bastion
Behind the sanctuary of the Matthias Church, the Fishermen's Bastion offers a splendid view of the Danube and Pest. At the end of the 19th century, Frigyes Schulek designed a graceful system of stairs running from the Danube to the hilltop, and the current structure, which has been embellished with turrets, scrolls, arcades, curved stairs and statues, was intended to be the end point. The lookout terrace was completed in 1901, and the equestrian statue of King St Stephen was installed in 1906. Schulek imagined the bastion section defended by the fishermen’s guild, hence the name. Somewhat his vision was of a more austere, defensible and less decorated piece of architecture, but his original plans were later altered to the delight of today's visitors.

I Szenthromsg tr
Transport: Funicular from Clark dm tr up Castle Hill; bus 6.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.

Hotel Gellrt and Thermal Baths
Prudes are not advised to try out the Gellrt Baths (valued since the Turkish occupation for their medicinal qualities) or any other thermal spas in the city, for that matter. Upon entrance, a strip of cloth is given to men and a tiny apron to women. Massages last 15 or 40 minutes – a vigorous experience not to be embarked upon by the faint-hearted. Bathing suits are donned before entering the main mixed swimming pool – an Art Nouveau beauty surrounded by columns. There are separate thermal pools of varying temperatures, steam rooms and sauna – one side for men and the other for women.

XI Szent Gellrt tr 2-6
Tel: (01) 385 2200.
Website: www.danubiusgroup.com/danubius/gellert
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0600-1900, Sat and Sun 0600-1600.
Admission charge.

Budapest Baths
Budapest is well known for its baths, and indeed any visit to the Hungarian capital should include at least one session in one of the city’s many fine establishments. Apart from the Gellert Thermal Baths (see above), check out the following: the neo-Baroque Szchenyi Baths in Vrosliget, llatkerti krt 11 (tel: (01) 321 0310; website: www.szechenyifurdo.hu), one of the largest spa complexes in Europe (and the first thermal bath of Pest), where you will find indoor steam rooms and thermal baths and outdoor pools where bathers play chess; the Kiraly Baths, II Fo utca 84 (tel: (01) 201 4392; website: www.kiralyfurdo.hu), housed in one of the city’s most important Ottoman monuments, where small baths of varying temperatures surround a large main pool – the traditional Turkish bath layout; the Rudas, I Dobrentei ter 9 (tel: (01) 356 1322), with its beautiful dome (shafts of light cut through the steam and give the room an eerie atmosphere), arguably the finest of Budapest’s baths (the Rudas is currently closed for refurbishment and is scheduled to reopen in January or February 2005); and Rac Gyogyfurdo, Hadnagy utca, 8-10 (tel: (01) 356 1010), another Turkish bath with an octagonal pool and a very beautiful Ottoman dome which has just undergone a massive refurbishment project. For more info visit www.spasbudapest.com

Orszghz (Parliament)
Imre Steindl’s design for Budapest’s Parliament, inspired by London’s Houses of Parliament, won first prize in a competition to celebrate the 1000th year of the Hungarian nation. Work commenced in 1885 and was finally completed in 1902. The parliament building opens onto Kossuth Lajos tr, named after the revolutionary leader of 1848. The edifice, with its elegant neo-Renaissance dome, topped by a pointy neo-Gothic spire, stretches for over 250m (820ft) along the River Danube. It was here that the crowds assembled on 23 October 1989, when Mtys Szurs declared the Hungarian People’s Republic from the balcony on Kossuth Lajos tr. The red star, perched on the dome during the Communist era, was abandoned in 1990. Guided tours, which depart from gate 10, allow entrance to a wealth of marble and gold, columns and statues within. Although the wait may be long, visitors should be patient, for it is worth it, if only to see the numbered cigar holders outside the former upper house, where members left their Havanas burning during debates.

V Kossuth Lajos tr 1-3
Tel: (01) 441 4904.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000 and 1400, Sat and Sun 1000, subject to parliamentary sessions (guided tours only).
Admission charge.

Szent Istvn Bazilika (St Stephen’s Basilica)
St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest’s largest church, designed by Jzsef Hild, was built in 1845, although not consecrated until 1905. A storm destroyed the original dome in 1868. The building was rebuilt from scratch in neo-Renaissance style but suffered damage during World War II. The building seats 8500 and is currently undergoing restoration, begun in 1980 and set to continue for the foreseeable future. Inside, Gyula Benczr’s painting of Szent Istvn offering the Hungarian crown to the Virgin Mary, symbolises the alliance between Hungary and Western Europe. The church’s undisputed highlight is a glimpse of Szent Istvn’s mummified hand, which lights up when Ft100 is slipped into a slot. The basilica’s tower offers excellent views of the city. Organ concerts are given on Mondays at 1900, July-October.

V Szent Istvn tr 1
Tel: (01) 317 2859.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0700-1900, Sun 1300-1900. Opening times for Stzent Jobb Chapel and for the cupola vary, phone ahead. Tower: daily 1000-1800.
Admission: Free. Charge for the tower.

Vrosliget (City Park)
Vrosliget, Budapest’s largest park, was designed by the French landscape-designer, Nebbion, and is where locals go for leisurely strolls. Attractions include the botanical gardens, artificial lake (used for ice skating in winter) and Vajdahunyad Vra – a castle that displays Hungary’s varied architectural styles right up to the 19th century, with the Magyar Mezogazdasgi Mzeum (Museum of Hungarian Agriculture) housed in the Baroque-style section. A statue of George Washington stands in the park, erected by grateful Hungarians who had been allowed to settle in America. The park also houses the City Zoo and the large and ornate Szchenyi Frdo (Szchenyi Baths), which are famed as much for their giant floating chess boards as for the medicinal power of their waters, and are one of the oldest, largest spa complexes in Europe.

VI Dzsa Gyrgy tca
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Szchenyi Baths
(see 'Budapest baths' above)

Magyar Mezogazdasgi Mzeum (Museum of Hungarian Agriculture)
Vajdahunyad Castle, Vrosliget, Szchenyi Island
Tel: (01) 363 1117.
Website: www.mezogazdasagimuzeum.hu
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1000-1700 (mid-Nov-mid-Feb); Tues-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1000-1700 (mid-Feb-mid-Nov)
Admission charge.

Budapest Zoo
XIV llatkerti krt 6-12
Tel: (01) 363 3710.
Website: www.zoobudapest.com
Opening hours: Mon-Thur 0900-1800; Fri-Sun 0900-1900 (May-Aug); daily 0900-1700 (Sep, Oct, Mar,Apr), daily 0900-1600 (Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb)
Admission charge.

Dohny Zsinagga (Central Synagogue)
Europe’s largest synagogue (and the world’s second largest) was designed by Lajos Fster, in a Byzantine-Moorish style and completed in 1859. Liszt and Saint-Sans are among the famous musicians to have played the synagogue’s grand organ. Desecrated by German and Hungarian Nazis, its two Moorish domes gleam afresh after a ten-year restoration project financed by the Hungarian government and Tony Curtis’ Emmanuel Foundation. 724,000 Hungarian Jews were murdered in the Holocaust and their lives are remembered in the Jewish History Museum, annexed to the synagogue and at Imre Varga’s memorial to the side of the synagogue, where a family name is inscribed on each leaf of a metallic tree. Neolog (Orthodox) services are held on Friday at 1800 and Saturday at 1900. Visitors should contact the Jewish Information Centre, VII Sp utca 2 (tel: (01) 342 1335).

Dohny Zsinagga (Central Synagogue)
VII Dohny tca 2
Tel: (01) 342 1335.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1500, Sun 1000-1300; closed Jewish holidays.
Admission charge.

Jewish Museum
VII Dohny tca 2
Tel: (01) 342 8949.
Website: www.c3.hu/~bpjewmus
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sun 1000-1500 (May-Oct); Mon-Fri 1000-1500, Sun 1000-1400 (Nov-Apr); closed Jewish holidays.
Admission charge.

Hosk Tere (Heroes’ Square)
Millenniumi Emlkm (Millennium Monument)
Heroes’ Square was built in 1896, to celebrate the millennial anniversary of the Magyar conquest. Here the Archangel Gabriel at the top of a 36m (118ft) column (winner of the Grand Prix at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900) is half-encircled by statues of the seven victorious Magyar tribal chiefs on horseback and Hungary’s most honoured rulers, from King Stephen to Kossuth.

VI Andrssy tca, corner of Dzsa Dyrgy tca
Website: www.budapestinfo.hu/en/sights/hosoktere.html
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Further Distractions

Margitsziget (Margaret Island)
Wedged in a loop of the River Danube and linked by rpd hd and Margit hd to Buda and Pest, the 2-km (1.5-mile) Margaret Island is one of the calmest and greenest spots in Budapest. No cars are allowed or needed – the island from Margit hd to rpd hd can be crossed on foot in 20 minutes. The island is named after the devout daughter of King Bla IV, who lived here in a Dominican convent in the 13th century. The ruins of her convent still stand on the east bank, near the remains of a Franciscan church. Other points of interest include a 100-year-old park, the 1930s reconstruction of a 12th-century chapel, sculptures of Hungarian artists and writers, an open-air theatre and UNESCO-listed water tower. There are also two hotels (Danubius Grand and Danubius Thermal) on the island. In summer, Margaret island is bursting with people heading for a swim at the Hajs Alfrd swimming pool or Palatinus pool, which are fed by underground springs.

Margaret Island
Website: www.budapestinfo.hu/en/sights/margitsziget.html
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free.

Szobor Park (Statue Park)
Just as Lenin Boulevard and Marx Square no longer exist in Budapest, so their statues and monuments have been sent into exile to Statue Park. A 30-minute trip leads to this eerie and increasingly popular outdoor attraction.

XXII Balatoni tca, corner of Szabadkai tca
Tel: (01) 424 7500.
Website: www.szoborpark.hu
Opening hours: Daily 1000-sunset.
Admission charge.

House of Terror Museum
For an insight into Hungary’s turbulent recent history, pay a visit to the House of Terror Museum. Featuring the grim decades of Nazi and Communist repression, this new museum is housed in the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments, an address that filled the heart of the average Hungarian with dread for the best part of 50 years. The museum has many memorable exhibits, and the atrium features a Soviet tank and a huge wall covered with portraits of the victims of this building. The stylish, high-tech exhibit is designed for Hungarians, but the English audio guide gives tourists the same powerful experience. This is the most expensive admission in Hungary, but it's still cheap by Western standards, and the experience is priceless for anyone with an affinity for Eastern Europe’s struggle for freedom under these brutal regimes.

Andrassy tca 60
Tel: 374 2600.
Website: www.terrorhaza.hu
Opening hours: 1000 to 1800 Tues to Fri. Opend until 1930 on Sat and Sun. Closed Mon.
Admission charge.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Absolute Tours (formerly known as Budapest Tours) (tel: 3021 18861; website: www.absolutetours.com) offers a selection of daily walking tours, for which reservations are not usually necessary. These take from two to five hours and cover Budapest’s major sights, the ‘Hammer and Sickle’ sights (such as 1956 fighting areas and Statue Park), Jewish Budapest and more. Most tours depart from the steps of the church on Kroly krt, Dak tr.

The Original Budapest Walks (website: www.budapesthotels.com/touristguide/programs/walks.htm) offers a number of tours in English, which take place from April-October. The Highlights of Pest tour includes the Chain bridge, Danube Promeade and St Stephen’s. Times and departure points of other tours are published online.

Chosen Tours (tel: (01) 355 2202) provides a one-and-a-half to two-hour guided tour (Sunday-Friday) of Jewish Budapest. The departure point is in front of the Dohny Synagogue, Dohny t, although the tour includes a hotel pick-up service. Booking is advisable.

Bus Tours
Budatours (tel: (01) 353 0558; website: www.budatours.hu) is one of many bus tour operators in the city. City tours typically last for two hours and depart from Casino Gresham, V Roosevelt tr.

Chosen Tours, XII Pagony utca 40 (tel: (01) 355 2202), offers a two- to three-hour air-conditioned bus tour, ‘Budapest Through Jewish Eyes’. The tour departs from in front of the Dohny Zsinagga, Dohny t.

Ibusz (tel: (01) 485 2700; website: www.ibusz.hu) offers different bus and boat tours taking four hours to one day. They depart from the Erzsebet tr bus station, near Dek tr, although there is also a hotel pickup service 30 minutes before the tours. A pamphlet entitled ‘Budapest Sightseeing’, is available from Ibusz offices, Tourinform and most hotels.

Boat Tours
Legenda (tel: (01) 266 4190; website: www.legenda.hu) offers a one-hour boat tour with an optional one-hour walking tour of Margaret Island. Tours (day or evening, including two drinks) depart from Piers six and seven, in front of the Marriott Hotel, from April to September.

Ibusz (tel: (01) 318 1139; website: www.ibusz.hu) runs tours along the River Danube, past Parliament, the Academy of Sciences and around Margaret Island. The 90-minute trip includes lunch on the Danube. Boats depart from the Vigad tr pier Thursday to Sunday from June to September. The company also provides a Folklore Evening tour of the illuminated capital.

MAHART (tel: (01) 484 4013; website: www.mahartpassnave.hu) offers cruises on the Danube, besides their regular service between Budapest and Vienna. Tours take approximately two hours. Boats depart from the Belgrd rakpart terminal.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Szentendre: Several waves of 19th-century Serbian refugees defined the character of this historic town on the Danube Bend, 19km (12 miles) from Budapest, with its incense-filled hilltop churches. A group of artists found the Serb-abandoned Szentendre in 1920s, liked what they saw and formed a colony there. Serbian churches include Blagovestenska Church, which looks on to the town’s main square, as well as the spectacular Belgrade Cathedral, next to the Museum of Serbian Church Art (entrance is on Ptrika utca). The Margit Kovcs Museum, Vastagh Gy utca 1, displays the works of Hungary’s best-known ceramist, while the Barcsay Collection, Dumtsa Jeno utca 10, exhibits the abstract paintings of one of the founders of the artistic colony.

The important Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum (Szabadtri Nprajzi Mzeum), Svtaravodai t (tel: (26) 502 500; website: www.sznm.hu), charts Hungarian village life over three centuries. The village museum (skanzen) includes houses, mills and towers from all over Hungary. Guided tours in English are available. Hourly buses travel the 3km (2 miles) from Szentendre’s HV train terminal at Szabadsgforrs t to the museum, taking 20 minutes in the morning and 40 minutes (a different route) in the afternoon.

Szentendre also has a new modern arts centre, a renovated 19th-century sawmill, Muveszet Malom (Art Mill), Bogdanyi utca 32 (tel: (26) 301 701). The exhibition hall displays graphics, paintings, sculptures and pieces of applied arts from local artists and artists connected to Szentendre. Once the investment project is complete, the building will be one of the most important art centres of Eastern-Central-Europe.

Tourinform has offices in Szentendre, Dumtsa Jeno utca 22 (tel: (26) 317 966; website: www.szentendre.hu), and provide a free map and tourist information on request. HV trains take 45 minutes from Batthyny tr station to Szentendre. There are also two boats a day, operated by MAHART (tel: (01) 484 4013; website: www.mahartpassnave.hu). Buses also run from Volnbusz take 30 minutes.

For a Whole Day

Lake Balaton: The Lake Balaton region, romantically known as the Hungarian Sea, is possibly the most popular tourist attraction of Central and Western Europe. Its water is only waist height, except for the Tihany Well in the north, where it reaches its deepest point of 13m (43ft). Activities centre on the water and include sailing, windsurfing and fishing for eels or fogas – the perch-pike unique to Lake Balaton, best enjoyed with wine from the nearby Badacsony Hills. The Tihany Peninsula, declared a national park in 1952, is one of the quietest spots in the region. The Baroque Abbey Church, standing on the hill in Tihany village, once housed the first written relic of Hungarian – King Andrs I’s deed for the foundation of the church that originally stood on this site. The major resort in the north is Balatonfred, known since Roman times for the curative power of its waters. The lakeside resort of Keszthely has a relaxed atmosphere and the large Baroque Festetics Palace, situated in lovely grounds.

Tourinform has offices in Balantonfred, Petofi Sandor utca 8 (tel: (87) 580 480; website: www.balatonfured.hu), and provides further information. Approximately 120km (75 miles) southwest of Budapest, Balatonfred can be reached by train from Dli plyaudvar in Budapest or by bus from Budapest’s Erzsbet tr. Useful information is published online (website: www.balaton.net and www.balatonregio.hu).

Sport

Shopping

Pest’s chic Vci utca and its surrounding avenues tempt the tourists with familiar high-street and designer names but bargain buys are to be found at Nagy Vsrcsarnok (the Great Market Hall), IX Fovm tr (website: www.piaconline.hu), an imposing three-storey structure that first opened in 1897 and now draws 30,000 shoppers daily. On the ground floor are strings of paprika-like red coral necklaces, pots of pickles, goose liver and salami. There is also a supermarket to stock up on Tokaj wines, Plinka (cherry and apricot brandy) and bitter, black Zwack unicum. Upstairs, there is a choice of Kalocsa and Maty hand-embroidered tablecloths, Zsolnay and Herendi porcelain, glittering beaded necklaces and traditional folk costumes. The Great Market Hall is open Mon-Fri 0700-1700 and Sat 0600-1400 (closed Sun).

Perhaps the best place for shoppers to haggle for folk costumes and communist relics is Ecseri Piac market, X Nagykorsi t 156, open Monday to Saturday 0700-1400.

Budapest’s antiques largely consist of Hapsburg-style furniture but are cheaper than in Vienna. The traditional antiques quarter lies around Falk Miksa utca. Antique shops can also be found in the Castle District and on the Vci utca. Hungarian music is another good buy. Classical record label Hungaroton offer CDs of the great Hungarian musicians for at least half the price.

Standard shop opening hours are Monday to Friday 1000-1800 and Saturday 1000-1300. Department stores usually open from 1000, while grocers, bakeries and supermarkets are open 0700-2000. Many shops open until 2000 or 2100 on Thursdays. Shops are closed on Sundays, except shopping malls. Each district has at least one 24-hour store. Many small shops close for summer in late July and August and almost everything shuts on public holidays. Sales tax (FA) of 25% (12% for food, some medical supplies, books and newspapers and hotel rooms) is included in the price and can be reclaimed by visitors purchasing goods worth Ft50,000 or more. A receipt and VAT-refund application form must be presented to customs on leaving the country.

Culture

Budapest has a grand history in music, ranging from virtuoso pianist Franz Liszt (whose playing frequently induced the ladies to swoon but who was not, in fact, Hungarian) to the operas of Ferenc Erkel. In the early 20th century, Bla Bartk (1881‐1945) and Zoltn Kodly (1882‐1967) scoured the country to capture its vanishing folk songs. Their work has enriched today’s vibrant Hungarian music scene. Following the shift from state‐funded to corporate‐sponsored orchestras, funding is tight. Some of the best singers and players have and are continuing to emigrate to the west. Players who stay are often under‐practised, frequently having to balance their playing with a second or third job. However, their spirit and passion for playing more than make up for any deficiencies in technical skill.

Tickets for the majority of concerts are available at the Nemzeti Filharmnia ticket office, V Vrsmarty tr 1 (tel: (01) 118 0281). Otherwise, these are available for purchase at the venue, an hour before the show. Tickets for the Hungarian State Opera (website: www.opera.hu) are available for purchase at the State Opera Ticket Office, VI Andrssy t 20 (tel: (01) 332 7914). The Petofi Csarnok, in Vrosliget (website: www.petoficsarnok.hu), and the Almssy tri Szabadido Kzpont (Almssy Square Leisure Centre), VII Almssy tr 6, are the two favourite venues for folk music. Tickets for most cultural, popular and sporting events in Budapest can also be ordered online from Ticket Express (website: www.tex.hu).

Listings in English are provided in Budapest Week (website: www.budapestweek.com) and Budapest Sun (website: www.budapestsun.com). The monthly Budapest Style (website: www.budapeststyle.com) also is very good for cultural listings. Tickets for most cultural and sports events can be booked online at www.tex.hu.

Music: The comparatively well funded Budapest Festival Orchestra (website: www.bfz.hu) is among the few to reach international standards and regularly features international soloists and conductors. One can usually rely upon the Hungarian State Orchestra for a decent performance. Formerly the Orchestra of the Hungarian Post Office, the MATV Symphony Orchestra (tel: (01) 215 5770; www.orchestra.matav.hu) is an up‐and‐coming orchestra backed by the Hungarian telephone company, MATV, performing in the recently renovated MATV Zenehz, IX Pva utca 10‐12, which seats 200 and has fine acoustics.

Zeneakadmia, VI Liszt Ferenc tr (tel: (01) 462 4600; website: www.zeneakademia.hu), is Hungary’s principal music venue and also houses the Ferenc (Franz) Liszt Music Academy – tickets are difficult to get, with most events being sold out many days in advance. Friday evening chamber concerts, given by Hungary’s best musicians, are performed in Bartk Memorial House, II Csaln utca 29 (tel: (01) 394 2100; website: www.bartokmuseum.hu), the former residence of the great composer and now a museum in his honour. The Hungarian State Opera (website: www.opera.hu) splits its repertoire between the prestigious Opera House, Magyar llami Operahz, VI Andrssy t 22, and the enormous Social Realist Erkel Sznhz, VIII Kztrsasg tr 30, which tends to be used for less popular productions. The late Hapsburg Fovrosi Operett Sznhz (Municipal Operetta Theatre), VI Nagymezo utca 17 (tel: (01) 269 3870), produces operettas, including the Hungarian favourite, Klmn’s The Csrds Princess.

Theatre: There are over 30 theatres in Budapest, in spite of a shortage of funding – most survive on a diet of Shakespeare, which the Magyars feel sounds better in Hungarian than in English, as well as the Hungarian classics. The Hungarian acting style is still very formalised and rather stiff. Shows commence at around 1900 and box offices are open all day or an hour prior to curtain up. Credit cards are often not accepted. The new Nemzeti Szinhaz (National Theatre), XI Bajor Gizi Park 1 (tel: (01) 476 6800; website: www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu) opened in 2002 in the new cultural centre of Budapest, and its construction gripped the locals, as Budapest had been without a national theatre for decades following the demolition of its ugly predecessor in 1968. The Nemzeti stages mainly domestic and international musicals/dramas. Katona Jzsef Szinhz, V Petofi Sandor utca 5 (tel: (01) 318 6599), is reputed as showing the best Hungarian theatre.

Dance: The lifeless Hungarian National Ballet is to be avoided. A better choice is the vibrant Dance Houses (Tnchz) for folk music and dance. Instruments include lead violin, kontra (a three‐string viola) and gut strung bass, with the odd hurdy‐gurdy thrown in. Kalamajka Dance House (Belvrosi Ifjusgi Mvelodsi Hz), V Molnr utca 9 (tel: (01) 317 5928), combines dancing with teaching to the sound of kalamajka bands, with regular guest performances from village bands (closed mid‐June to mid‐September). The Hungarian State Folk Ensemble (Magyar llami Npi Egyttes), I Corvin tr 8 (tel: (01) 201 5017; website: www.hungariakoncert.hu), puts on professional performances of traditional dancing and music.

Film: While Budapest has over 30 cinemas, only approximately 5% of films shown are Hungarian – a clear advantage for the traveller, especially as foreign films are often subtitled (rather than dubbed). For listings, visitors should check Budapest Week and Budapest Sun (see above) or attempt to decipher the Hungarian and rather highbrow Pesti Msor (website: www.pestimusor.hu). Pesti Est, found in cinema foyers and associated with the FM radio station, EST, is more comprehensive, especially for English‐language films, as is Open. There are many large mainstream cinemas and a wide range of arthouse cinemas. The Atrium, II Margit krt 55 (tel: (01) 212 5398), shows mainstream Hollywood films, while Muvsz, VI Terz krt 30 (tel: (01) 332 6726), specialises in arthouse and classic movies.

The major annual multicultural, multi‐lingual event is the Film Festival (Magyar Filmszemle) in February. Because of shortages of financing, joint productions are flourishing, such as the Hungarian‐French Simon Magus (1999), which caused a sensation at the 1999 Hungarian Film Festival. Films shot in Budapest include a short sequence in The Music Box (1989), for which Jessica Lange won the Oscar for best actress; the funeral scene in Evita (1996), directed by Alan Parker and starring Madonna and, more recently, Underworld (2003), a vampire meets werewolf movie starring Kate Beckinsale.

Literary Notes: Shakespeare used the word ‘hungarian’ in The Merry Wives of Windsor (circa 1600), as an adjective connoting beggarliness and thievishness. Perceptions of Hungary and Budapest have changed over the centuries but fascination has been an enduring factor. As early as 1840, English visitor Julia Pardoe wrote: ‘There is such a constant variety and movement in (Pest’s) streets, such a blending of the Oriental with the European and such a holiday look about the whole population that it is impossible to feel ennui in the chief city of the Magyars.’ Dictator Admiral Mikls Horthy described 1920s Budapest simply but unforgettably as a ‘sinful city’. British perceptions of modern Budapest are well described in Marion Merrick’s Now You See It, Now You Don’t (1998), while Michael Jacob’s Budapest: A Cultural Guide (1998) offers a well‐researched analysis of the city’s cultural history.

Nightlife

New clubs and discos are constantly sprouting up all over Budapest and there is no district especially renowned for its nightlife. The bars offer something for everybody (from sleazy sex bars to calm cafs) and there is plenty of time to experiment. Many bars are open until dawn, although most close at around 0400. Borozos are cheap wine cellars, where it is rare to see women, especially unaccompanied. Sorozos are beer houses that will also serve good and moderately priced food. Clubs charge Ft500-1000 entry and may ban people in shorts or tracksuits. The minimum drinking age is 18 years. Alcohol is inexpensive, with a beer costing Ft200-300 (far more for imported bottled beers) and sprits Ft500. Under no circumstances should one clink beer glasses – this was adopted by the Austrians, when Hungarian generals were executed after the failed Revolution of 1848-49.

Probably the best source of nightlife listings in Budapest is the free weekly publication, Open (published on Thursday). Pesti Est is also very complete and is available free from cinema foyers. Pesti Msor (website: www.pestimusor.hu) is a paid for publication and is also comprehensive. However, these are in Hungarian and English-speaking revellers may prefer to pick up a copy of Budapest Week (website: www.budapestweek.com) or Budapest Sun (website: www.budapestsun.com). Where Budapest is a monthly guide in English, available free at most hotels. The bi-monthly Budapest in Your Pocket is free on Malv airplanes or can be purchased in newsagents.

Bars: The Crazy Caf, VI Jkai utca 30, stocks over 20 draught and 100 bottled beers and is popular with the young set. Caf Mediterran, VI Liszt Ferenc tr, is open until 0200 and has a friendly atmosphere and attractive terrace that is packed in summer. Night and Day, VI Andrssy t 46, draws an older crowd 24 hours a day, as its name suggests. For those yearning to hear their native language spoken, the Irish Cat, V Mzeum krt, provides relief. It is open daily until 0200 and is often packed – there is Latin music on Monday and blues on Tuesday. Beckett’s, V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t, is one of the few bars that accepts major credit cards. This huge Irish pub with excellent food draws the Anglophone business community, as most Hungarians are out priced. Portside, VII Dohny utca 7, is popular with a young crowd, at the weekend, with an excellent menu, pool tables and dancing, while Negro, II Szent Istvar ter, is the place for cocktails.

Casinos: Budapest has over a dozen casinos, mostly located in the luxury hotels along the Dunakorz. Anything but formal dress precludes entry, except at the Las Vegas Casino, Hyatt Regency Hotel, V Roosevelt tr 2 (website: www.lasvegascasino.hu). Other casinos include Casino Budapest Hilton, I Hess Andrs tr 1-3, Casino Budapest Gresham, Gresham Palace, V Roosevelt tr 5, and the grand Vrkert Casino, 1 Ybl Mikls tr 9 (website: www.varkert.com), designed by Mikls Ybl (architect of the State Opera House). In all casinos, photo ID must be presented for registration on the first visit and the minimum age is 18. Credit cards are now generally accepted.

Clubs: Most clubs are open until at least 0300 (many until 0600). The admission fee varies from about Ft300 to over Ft1000. Most do not accept credit cards and English is not spoken in some clubs. Budapest bouncers often belong to organised crime, so it is best to smile sweetly and pay the entrance fee. Franklin Trocadero Caf, V Szent Istvn krt 15, plays good Latin music, while retro is provided in the cellar-club Nincs Pardon, VIII Almssy tr 2. Fat Mo's, V Nyry Pl t. 11, is always busy and the dancefloor is usually filled, during and after the live jazz concerts. Piaf, VI Nagymezo utca 25 has a piano bar upstairs and a lively bar with a dancefloor in the basement. Despite its inconvenient location in Obuda, the Supersonic Technicum, III Pacsirtamez utca 41, a former factory cellar, is very much the centre of Budapest’s underground dance scene, with three dancefloors with ducts, pistons and fountains and two bars – the music ranges from Goan trance, drum ‘n’ bass, reggae to techno. Kashmir Underground, IX lloi t 151, near the Ferenc Krt metro, is a new hip club with very good food. The Old Man’s Music Pub, VII Akcfa utca 13, although crowded, is one of the city’s most fun night-time hotspots, with live music from 2100 to 2300. Angyal Bar, VII Szvetsg ut 33, is the gay club in Budapest, specialising in good old-fashioned high-NRG dance remixes of all your favourite hits from the Pet Shop Boys, Cher and Ricky Martin.

Live Music: Mexican music is played on Monday, Wednesday and Friday evenings at Latin Kocsma, V Havas utca 2. Mellow jazz is featured at Club Seven, VII Afcfa utca 7, a classy caf, bar and music club, and at Incognito, VI Liszt Ferenc tr 3. Dance houses (tnchz) feature Magyar folk music from isolated areas such as the Transylvanian region of Romania. Gykr Restaurant, VI corner of Etvs utca and Szobl utca, is popular (especially on Friday) and also serves good food. Kalamajka DH (Belvrosi Ifjusgi Muvelodesi Haz), V Molnr utca 9, was started by Bla Habmos (the founder of the dance house movement in the 1970s) and is open Saturday 2000-0100. The Petofi Csarnok, in Vrosliget (website: www.petoficsarnok.hu), and the Almssy tri Szabadido Kzpont (Almssy Square Leisure Centre), VII Almssy tr 6, are the two favourite venues for small pop concerts and folk music. International stars perform at Npstadion, the main sport stadium, XIV Istvnmezei t 1-3.

Tickets for rock and jazz can be purchased at TEX ticket express, I Dli plyaudvar, VI Andrassy t 18 and other locations (website: www.tex.hu), and at Publika, VII Kroly krt (website: www.publika.hu). VII. Szvetsg u. 33.

City Statistics

Location: Budapest county, north central Hungary.
Country dialling code: 36.
Population: 1,886,000 (city).
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 0C (32F).
Average July temp: 21.5C (71F).
Annual rainfall: 635mm (25 inches).

Special Events

New Year’s Day Concert, popular Hungarian classics, 1 Jan, Vigado concert hall
The Farsang Season, masked balls, 2 Jan-4 Mar, throughout the city
Budapest Film Festival, long weekend in early Feb, throughout the city
Carnival Sunday, masked procession, last Sun before Lent Feb/Mar, throughout the city
Spring Uprising, commemorating the 1848 Revolution, including street theatre, 15 Mar, in front of the Hungarian National Theatre
Budapest Spring Festival, classical music festival with dance and folk music, last two weeks in Mar-mid-Apr, throughout the city
Earth Day, green issues, 22 Apr, throughout the city
May Day, craft markets, street theatre, sausage and beer tents have replaced communist practices, 1 May, throughout the city
Book Week, new books are displayed along the streets of central Pest between the Danube and Nagykrt, first weekend Jun, Pest
World Music Day, nation-wide music festival, with rock, folk and jazz, mid-Jun, free open-air venues around Budapest
Budapesti Bcs, celebration of the 1991 withdrawal of Soviet troops, with music, dance and theatre, last weekend Jun, various parks and public spaces
Danube Carnival, Jun
MATAV-WOFUME, three-day world music festival, Jun, Budai Parkszinpad
Open-Air Summer Festival, music, dance and theatre, Jun-Aug, Margaret Island, Hilton Hotel and the Buda Park Stage
Anna Ball, 200-year-old event of the Lake Balaton summer season with chamber music concert, fireworks, Jul, Balatonfred
St Stephen’s Day, celebration of Szent Istvn, founder of Hungary, with fireworks, 20 Aug, Gellrt Hill
Hungaroring, Grand Prix, second Sun in Aug, Mogyorod, near Budapest
Student Island Festival (Diksziget), one of Europe’s biggest week-long cultural events (rock, folk and jazz), third week Aug, buda Island
BudaFest, opera and ballet festival, early-mid Aug, Opera House
Festival of Crafts, mid-Aug, Buda Castle
Jewish Summer Festival, late Aug or early Sep, throughout the city
Budapest International Wine Festival, exhibition and fair, second week of Sep, Buda Castle
Architectural Heritage Days, open house weekend for important architectural buildings, Sep, throughout city
Budapest International Fair (BNV), Sep, Budapest Fair Centre (Budapesti Vsrkzpont)
Budapest Contemporary Music Weeks, opening of concert season on the anniversary of Bartk’s death, late Sep-end of Oct, various venues
Budapest Autumn Festival, contemporary Arts festival, late Sep-mid-Oct, many venues
Budapest Marathon, Oct, throughout the city
Remembrance Day, national day of mourning of the Soviet crushing of the Hungarian rebellion, 23 Oct, Kossuth tr
Vox pacis, festival of choral music, Nov, various venues
Mikuls, giving of presents, 6 Dec, throughout the city
Szilveszter (New Year), 31 Dec, throughout the city
New Year’s Eve Masked Ball, 31 Dec, Opera House
Silver and Gold Sunday, serious day of Christmas shopping, last Sun before Christmas, throughout the city

Cost of Living

100 Hungarian Forint (Ft100) = 0.28; US$0.53; C$0.66; A$0.68; 0.41
Currency conversion rates as of Feb 2005