World City Guide

Mini Guide of Brussels

City Overview

The European Parliament has found an ideal home in Brussels (Bruxelles in French, Brussel in Flemish). This inland capital city of Belgium, bordered by The Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg and France, it is a multi-cultural and multi-lingual city at the very heart of Europe. Indeed, it claims with some justification to be the ‘Capital of Europe’.

Brussels was already a thriving trade centre by the Middle Ages. The Bruxellois have inherited the wisdom of ancestors who lived under Roman, Spanish, Austrian, French, Dutch and German domination – their country winning independence only in 1830. Today, Brussels boasts a highly skilled and adaptable workforce. Despite the population of Belgium numbering only 10.2 million, with Brussels itself just some 970,000-strong, the Bruxellois have the ability to compensate for their small numbers with skilled diplomacy, compromise and negotiation. These striking traits are followed closely by a highly intellectual and off-beat sense of humour, underpinned by a strong sense of the bizarre. This may help explain why the Surrealist art movement, pioneered by Ren Magritte, took off in Brussels. A playful and irreverent reaction to life is also revealed in the Belgian love affair with the comic strip, popularised worldwide with Herg’s boy hero, Tintin.

Language is a complex and serious issue in bilingual (French and Flemish) Brussels, as well as being a focus of communal tensions. Some 85% of native Bruxellois speak French as their first language. Ironically, Brussels is also capital of Flemish-speaking Flanders. However, the fierce linguistic debate takes a lighter form, with constant puns and word games forming a complex web. For instance, while a top-notch restaurant is called Comme Chez Soi (Just Like Home), a less prestigious establishment calls itself Comme Chez Moi (Just Like My Home), with more than a twist of irony.

Yet the image of the city suffers abroad, due to its very diversity, as well as the self-effacing nature of its quirky inhabitants, too modest to blow their own trumpet. Brussels has no symbol to rival the skyscraping Eiffel Tower, aside from the tiny but famed Manneken-Pis, a statuette of a urinating boy.

The first visit to Brussels, uncoloured by expectations, is therefore all the more rewarding. Narrow cobbled streets open suddenly into the breathtaking Grand-Place, with its ornate guild houses, impressive Town Hall and buzzing atmosphere. It would be difficult to find a more beautiful square in the whole of Europe. Bars, restaurants and museums are clustered within the compact city centre, enclosed within the petit ring, which follows the path of the 14th-century city walls. The medieval city is clearly defined by its narrow, labyrinthine streets, making it easy to distinguish the later additions, such as Lopold II’s Parisian-style boulevards – Belliard and La Loi – today lined with embassies, banks and the grand apartments of the bourgeoisie and close to the glitzy new EU quarter. The working class still congregate in the Marolles district, in the shadow of the Palais de Justice, although this area is on the up-and-up. New immigrant communities are settling in the rundown area around the Gare du Nord. Neighbouring communes, St-Gilles and Ixelles, draw an arty crowd with their ‘in’ shops and restaurants. These are worth the trek, if only to glimpse some of Brussels’ finest Art Nouveau buildings, the style being developed by Bruxellois Victor Horta, the son of a shoemaker.

With a pleasant temperate climate – warm summers and mild winters – and a host of sights and delights to entertain, Brussels offers far more than just beer and chocolate (although excelling in both). The year 2003 marked the city’s celebration of its cultural diversity – from its rich architecture to native hero and lyrical singer Jacques Brel – through a series of cultural events, festivals and restoration schemes.

Getting There By Air

Brussels Zaventem (BRU)
Tel: (0900) 70000, for flight information. Fax: (02) 753 4250.
Website: www.brusselsairport.be

Brussels’ airport, operated by Brussels International Airport Company – BIAC (tel: (02) 753 4200), is situated 12km (eight miles) northeast of Brussels, offering flights to over 150 destinations worldwide. The number of passengers using the airport in 2001 peaked between July and September when over 20 million passengers passed through Brussels Airport, which is a modern facility quite in keeping with the stature of the city it serves. Comprehensive free information guides are widely available around the airport.

Major airlines: SN Brussels Airlines (tel: (02) 723 2323; website: www.brusselsairlines.com) has taken on most of the former Sabena routes. Currently, it is one of the two largest Belgian-based airlines, along with Virgin Express (tel. (02) 752 0511; website: www.virgin-express.com). SN Brussels Airlines serves 41 European destinations and 13 African destinations, while Virgin Express operates flights to 16 destinations across Europe. Other major airlines include Air Canada, Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines and United Airlines.

Airport facilities: These include post office and medical facilities, bank and bureaux de change, ATMs, bars, restaurants, shops, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National/Alamo and Sixt.

Business facilities: The Skyport Corporate Meeting Centre (tel: (02) 714 0200; fax: (02) 714 0201) is located on the fourth-floor ‘Promenade’ level and offers ten small meeting rooms and secretarial services.

Transport to the city: The Airport Line bus service, operated by MIVB/STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be), runs three to four times per hour daily 0457–2357. The cost of a journey into the city centre costs 3 (journey time – 40 minutes). The De Lijn bus (tel: (01) 631 3737; website: www.delijn.be) operates every 45 minutes to the city centre (journey time – 40 minutes), Monday to Friday between 0600 and 2400 and Saturdays between 0600 and 2100, costing 3. Also operated by STIB, the Airport City Express trains to the city (journey time – 15 minutes) depart every 15 minutes to Brussels’ three main stations – Gare Centrale, Gare du Nord and Gare du Midi. A first-class one-way ticket costs 3.80, while a second-class ticket costs 2.50. Services operate daily 0600–2400.

Taxis to the centre cost about 30. Hotel courtesy coaches go to the Holiday Inn, Novotel and Sofitel.

Brussels South Charleroi Airport (CRL)
Tel: (07) 125 1211. Fax: (07) 125 1202
Website: www.charleroi-airport.com

Brussels’ second and smaller airport is located 55km (37 miles) south of Brussels, in Charleroi – a one-hour drive from Lille, in the North of France. The privately owned airport, which belongs to the Walloon region and private investors, is an international airport for passenger and freight traffic, a test and training flight base for aeronautical industry and a centre for general and business aviation. The acknowledged training centre of all Belgian airlines, Belgian Flight School, is also based here. Low-cost airline Ryanair serves London, Shannon, Dublin, Glasgow Prestwick, Venice, Carcassonne, Pisa, Venice, Rome, Milan and Liverpool.

Major airlines: Ryanair (tel: (0900) 10310, French only or (0900) 10740, Flemish only; website: www.ryanair.com) operates most passenger flights to and from Charleroi Airport. Other airlines using the airport include Air Alfa Air Algrie, British Midland, Futura, Istanbul Airlines, Noubel Air, Turkish Airlines and Virgin Express.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bars, shops, lost property, a bank and duty-free shop. Car hire is available from Hertz. Avis (tel: (07) 132 3535) and All Top Rent a Car (tel: (07) 132 3334), which are based in Charleroi and will deliver cars to the airport.

Business facilities: There is a first class lounge available in the terminal.

Transport to the city: The MIVB/STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be) bus 68 runs from Charleroi Airport to the nearby Charleroi train station (journey time – 10 minutes) weekdays 0600–2330 and weekends 0620–2230. From there, a frequent SNCB (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.sncb.be) train service connects to Brussels’ main stations, daily 0500–2400 (journey time – 45 minutes). Tickets cost 10. There are plans to extend the rail link directly to the airport, but this is some years away.

The door-to-door Airport Transfer Service (tel: (04) 7342 9490; e-mail: cromexa@yahoo.fr; website: www.cromexa.be) costs between 10 and 25. Taxis also run to central Brussels, costing 85 (journey time – 40 minutes).

Approximate flight times to Brussels: From London is 55 minutes; from New York is 10 hours; from Los Angeles is 16 hours; from Toronto is 7 hours 45 minutes and from Sydney is 27 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: 9.77 departure tax and 6.20 transfer tax is charged as part of the ticket price.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Traffic drives on the right. Major towns are connected by toll-free motorways. Motorways are signposted with a white ‘E’ on a green background, major roads with an ‘N’ and minor roads with a ‘P’. The speed limit on motorways and dual carriageways is 120kph (75mph), on single carriageways outside built-up areas is 90kph (56mph) and in built-up areas is 50kph (31mph).

The minimum driving age is 18 years. A valid national driving licence is required and national stickers must be displayed. EU nationals taking their own cars to Belgium are advised to obtain a Green Card, as basic insurance is mandatory for driving in Belgium. Children under 12 are forbidden to travel in the front seat without a child restraint. Seatbelts must be worn in the front and back of vehicles. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Driving licences will be withdrawn for at least six hours if the breathalyser test is positive.

A warning triangle must be displayed at the scene of a breakdown or accident. After paying a membership fee and subscription, at the site of the breakdown, services can be obtained from the Royal Automobile Club de Belgique, Rue d’Arlon 53 (tel: (02) 287 0911; website: www.racb.com), or Touring Club de Belgique, Rue de la Loi 44 (tel: (02) 233 2212; website: www.touring.be). The latter has a reciprocal agreement with the AA, while VTB VAB Auto Assistance, 100 Rue Pastoor Coplaan, Zwijndrecht (tel: (03) 253 6101), has a reciprocal agreement with the RAC.

Emergency breakdown services:
Royal Automobile Club de Belgique (02) 287 0900 or (078) 152 000
Touring Club de Belgique (070) 344 777
VTB VAB (070) 344 666

Routes to the city: The extensive motorway ring road around Brussels offers easy access into the city centre. Routes E19 and A12 lead north to Antwerp – from there, the E19 continues over the border toward Rotterdam and Amsterdam in The Netherlands. Route E19 also extends south to Paris, becoming E15. Route E40 links Brussels with Ghent – from there, Ostend is reachable via route E17. Route E411 links Brussels to Namur and route E40 to Lige, continuing east over the border toward Cologne, from where the E35 heads toward Frankfurt.

Approximate driving times to Brussels: From Antwerp – 35 minutes; from Ghent – 45 minutes; from Ostend – 1 hour 20 minutes; from Namur – 45 minutes; from Lige – 50 minutes; from Amsterdam – 2 hours 25 minutes; from Paris – 3 hours 20 minutes; from Frankfurt – 4 hours 15 minutes.

Coach services: Several companies provide bus services to nearby Belgian cities – all are much slower than the equivalent train routes. De Lijn (tel: (02) 526 2828) operates buses between Brussels and Flanders, while TEC (tel: (010) 235 353) provides a similar service to the French-speaking Wallonia. Most buses depart from Gare du Nord, in the Espace Nord, although some depart from Place Rouppe, in the Marolles district. There is a general enquiries line (tel: (02) 515 2000).

Eurolines (tel: (02) 274 1350; website: www.eurolines.com) operates international services to major European destinations – including direct routes to Cologne, Munich and Luxemborg – from Noord I, CCN Noordstation, Gare Routiere, Vooruitgangstraat 80 (tel: (02) 274 1350), Noord II, Solvayplein 4-Place Solvay 4 (tel: (02) 274 1350) and Zuid, Avenue Fonsnylaan 13 (tel: (02) 538 2049).

Getting There By Rail

Some nine billion Euros are being pumped into the Belgian National Railways – SNCB/NMBS (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.b-rail.be), in a ten-year modernisation plan due for completion in 2005. The service is fast and very efficient. There are three major railway stations in Brussels – Bruxelles-Central, located in the heart of the city, Bruxelles-Nord, to the north of the main ring road, and Bruxelles-Midi, to the south. They share a rail enquiries line (tel: (02) 555 2555). All three stations have bars, refreshments and disabled access, while Bruxelles-Midi and Bruxelles-Nord both have car parks.

Rail services: Most domestic trains stop at all three stations. Eurostar trains (tel: (02) 528 2828; website: www.eurostar.com) from London and Thalys express trains (tel: (070) 667 788; website: www.thalys.com) from Aachen, Amsterdam, Cologne and Paris stop at Bruxelles-Midi, the TGV (High-Speed Train) terminal. Links to Paris (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes) and London (journey time – 2 hours 40 minutes) are fast and efficient.

Transport to the city: All three stations are on the mtro – Bruxelles-Midi and Bruxelles-Nord have a direct connection to Bruxelles-Central, as well as to other cities and the airport.

Getting Around

Public Transport
The integrated bus, overground and underground (prmtro) tram and mtro network is operated by Socit des Transports Intercommunaux Bruxellois, known as STIB (tel: (02) 515 2000; website: www.stib.irisnet.be). The system operates daily 0600–2400, and the information line is manned from Monday to Friday 0800–1900 and Saturday 0800–1600. Although efficient and extremely clean, the network is not without its problems – plans to replace the underground trams with an extended mtro system have yet to materialise. However, recent improvements include the addition of lifts for handicapped passengers – at, Maelbeek, De Brouckre and Gare-Centrale stations. STIB information points are located at Porte de Namur, Rogier and Midi mtro stations, as well as at the Anspach Shopping Centre, rue de l’Evque.

Above ground, the mtro is identified by a sign bearing a white ‘M’ on a blue background. Many stations display the works of local artists and mtro seats are soft and comfortable – the service is pleasant even during rush hour (0730–0930 and 1600–1830). Mtro lines 1A and1B form a giant ‘H’ shape. Mtro line IA runs northwest to southeast, from Roi Baudouin to Herrmann-Debroux. Line 1B runs southwest to northeast, from Bizet to Stockel. Lines 1A and 1B join in the middle, running along the same lines from Beekhant to Merode, to serve the central part of the city. The incomplete circle of line 2, from Simonis to Clemenceau, follows the inner ring road underground.

Tram and bus stops are indicated by red and white signs respectively. The route number and destination are displayed on the front of the vehicle and all stops are request stops. Brussels’ bright yellow and blue trams serve the city centre and suburbs. The trams reach their highest speeds underground – the prmtro runs south, underneath the heart of the city from Gare du Nord, stopping at Place de Brouckre and Bourse, and Bruxelles-Midi (Eurostar terminal). Some services run on to St-Gilles and Albert.

Tickets for the transport network are available for purchase at mtro stations and many newsagents. The tourist reception desk at Rue du March-aux-Herbes 63, and at the TIB at the Town Hall in Grand-Place sell day transport tickets (see below) and give out free maps of the network – also available at most mtro stations. Tickets must be stamped at the mtro ticket barrier, either prior to or upon boarding the bus or tram. Bus and overground tram tickets may also be purchased prior to or upon board the vehicle (exact change is required for the latter). Once purchased, the ticket is valid for any form of public transport, including changes. One-hour tickets (la carte d’une voyage) cost 1.40, while ten (hour-long) journey tickets (la carte de dix voyages) cost 9. A one-day pass (la carte d’un jour) costs 3.60 and is valid for two persons at weekends and holidays. A one-day group card (maximum five persons) is available for 5.95 and is valid at weekends, holidays and after 0900 on weekdays.

In addition to the STIB network, Belgian National Railways (see Getting There By Rail) local trains depart from Bruxelles-Chapelle, Bruxelles-Quartier Lopold, Bruxelles-Schuman and Bruxelles-Congrs, linking the inner city to the suburbs.

Taxis
Autolux (tel: (02) 411 1221) are the official taxis in Brussels. These are marked with a blue and yellow plaque and travel from Brussels Airport to the required destination in the city. In central Brussels, taxis are available at centrally located ranks at the major railway stations and at the Bourse, Place de Brouckre and Porte de Namur. Alternatively, radio taxi companies are available to order by telephone. These include Taxis Verts (tel: (02) 349 4949), Taxis Orange (tel: (02) 349 4343) and Taxis Bleus (tel: (02) 268 0000).

The minimum fares are 2.35 in the daytime and 4.21 at night. Trips cost 0.99 per kilometre (double at night) and there is an additional 19.83 per hour for waiting. However, no charge is made for luggage. A 1 or 2 tip is acceptable.

Limousines
Ganax, Brugstraat 24, 1930 Zaventem, (tel: (02) 720 4167; fax: (02) 720 4695), located close to the airport, offers a limousine service. Hire for one day, including a trilingual chauffeur, costs from 430.

Driving in the City
Although commuter traffic is heavy on the outskirts of Brussels during rush hour (0730–0930 and 1600–1830), the centre is relatively easy to negotiate, once the one-way system has been mastered. There is considerable ongoing work to reduce city centre traffic levels, including extensive pedestrianisation and traffic management schemes.

In addition to car parks located in the city centre, there is pay-and-display parking – accepting 0.20, 0.5, 0.10, 1 and 2 coins – in certain streets. The rules for use vary according to the time of day. There also is a large public car park under the Novotel Hotel, Rue de la Montagne. Parking rates are 12 for half a day, 2.50 for two hours and 1 for an hour. Rates apply Monday to Saturday 0900–1300 and 1430–1900, with free street parking available on Sunday and holidays.

Car Hire
Car hire is available to drivers of 23 years and over, on presentation of a passport or identity card and valid national driving licence, held for at least one year. All the major providers are present at Brussels Airport. Other locations throughout the city include Avis, Gare du Midi (tel: (02) 527 1705; website: www.avis.be), Budget Rent-a-Car, at Avenue Louise 327B (tel: (02) 753 2170; website: www.budget.com), Europcar, Bruxelles-Midi and Chausse de Waterloo 538 (tel: (02) 522 9573 or 345 9290; website: www.europcar.com), and Hertz, at Bruxelles-Midi, Boulevard Lemonnier 8 and Chausse de Vleurgat 210 (tel: (02) 524 3100 or 513 2886 or 649 0015; website: www.hertz.com).

Prices for one day of hire start at around 70 for a small car, rising to 200 for the largest vehicles. Third Party Liability insurance should be covered by the hire rates, however, those hiring a car should always check this.

Bicycle Hire
Pro Vlo, Rue de Londres 15 (tel: (02) 502 7355; fax: (02) 502 8641), offers bicycles for hire at a cost of 20 for a weekend or 12 for a day, as well as guided themed tours, costing 14 for half a day.

Business

Business Profile
Although Brussels accounts for just 0.5% of Belgium’s surface area and has a population of under one million, the region generates 15% of the nation’s Gross National Product. However, Brussels’ unemployment level at 15% remains high. The national level is not much better, standing at 12%. This perhaps is explained by the fact that two thirds of Belgium’s 40,000-strong asylum seekers are in Brussels and, since 2000 regulations, this population has been entitled to seek work. A further explanation rests on the nature of employment available in Brussels, which relies on a highly skilled, technically proficient and multi-lingual workforce. In this environment, the less skilled find it difficult to slot in. One third of Brussels’ labour market comes from the international community, of which 65% are from the European Union.

Most major Belgian companies are based in the capital, including the Glaverbel, Solvay and SN Brussels Airlines. ‘Capital’ of the European Union, Brussels also plays host to NATO. The presence of these international organisations, combined with Brussels’ geographic location at the heart of Europe, excellent transport infrastructure, highly trained multi-lingual workforce and favourable fiscal regimes, draws nearly 2000 foreign companies to Brussels, including 1400 American companies and over 1000 international associations. The presence of some 60 foreign banks has contributed to making Brussels the world’s seventh biggest financial market. Along with American companies, France, Germany, Sweden, the United Kingdom, Switzerland and Japan also have strong financial links with Brussels. Foreign companies with a presence in the city include AT&T, IBM, Sony, Toyota, Procter & Gamble, Hewlett Packard, Volkswagen and Price Waterhouse-Coopers.

The tertiary sector accounts for nearly 80% of all jobs – in various fields such as banking and financial services, tourism and transport. Nonetheless, Brussels remains the nation’s second most important industrial centre after Antwerp. Industry is increasingly specialised in high-tech sectors and accounts for 15% of employment.

There are several major business districts. The city centre is where the Belgian financial groups – such as the FORTIS and BBL – and government ministries are based. The Espace Nord is much favoured by public administrators and private-sector companies, such as Belgacom, Bankcard Company and The World Trade Center. The Louise area is occupied by national and international companies, while the coveted Lopold area is dominated by the European Parliament. Brussels’ international flavour is also evident in the numerous diplomatic missions present and the city welcomes nearly 16,000 business congresses annually. Nearly a third of the capital’s population is made up of foreigners, giving Brussels a truly cosmopolitan flair.

Business Etiquette
A certain degree of business formality is expected in Brussels. It is wise for business visitors to confirm meetings in writing and arrive punctually, armed with business cards and wearing a suit – with a tie for men. Companies are hierarchical and as many managing directors do not delegate, it is advisable to go straight to the top. Standard office hours are Monday to Friday 0830–1730. On introduction, one should address colleagues with their surname, respecting any professional or academic qualifications. English is the standard language of business. Personal relationships are important, so relaxed lunch meetings help develop trust – a stage that must be reached before decisions are made. In Brussels, it is common for business colleagues to be invited for an apritif, followed by dinner at a nice restaurant, although usually not at the first meeting.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
With the exception of Grand-Place and the narrow streets nearby, sightseeing in Brussels is relatively crowd free. Brussels offers a remarkable choice of some 90 museums, some tiny and some international in scale. All museums have bilingual labelling (French and Dutch/Flemish). English is not always used but English-language leaflets are usually available. In recent years, signposting (for drivers and pedestrians) of Brussels’ top museums and major monuments has been improved, making sightseeing even easier.

The historic centre around Grand-Place – easily covered on foot – is home to a cluster of alluring museums, including museums dedicated to beer, chocolate and lace-making. Certain sights and sensations are obligatory, such as glimpsing the trickle of water flowing from the Manneken-Pis and making a wish while touching the ghoulish bronze statue of Charles-Everard de T’Serclaes – said to bring good luck.

However, the city has much more to offer. The public transport system works well enough to safely deposit the walk-weary tourist in Brussels’ distinct districts: the modern Quartier des Institutions Europennes; aristocratic Sablon, near the Place Royal; vibrant working class Marolles, south of Grand-Place; St-Gilles, with its splendid examples of Victor Horta’s Art Nouveau architecture; and Heysel, far out to the northwest, with its memories of the triumph of the 1958 Exhibition and the tragedy of the Heysel stadium disaster.

Tourist Information
Brussels International Tourism and Congress (BITC)
Htel de Ville, Grand-Place
Tel: (02) 513 8940. Fax: (02) 513 8320.
E-mail: info@brusselstourism.be
Website: www.tib.be
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1800 (Apr–Oct); Mon–Sat 0900–1800, Sun 1000–1400 (Oct–Dec); Mon–Sat 0900–1800 (Dec–Mar).

Passes
The Brussels Card gives free access to museums and STIB public transport for a period of three days. It also offers a 25 % discount for the Visit Brussels tourist bus (see Tours of the City), the Restaurant Lon de Bruxelles and the Thtre de Toone. It costs 30 and is available in museums, tourist offices and hotels.

Key Attractions

Grand-Place
A web of narrow cobbled streets suddenly opens out into the vast Grand-Place – economic and social heart of Brussels since the Middle Ages. The array of filigree Gothic buildings is dominated by the asymmetrical Htel de Ville, built in the 15th century. Its 96m (315ft) spire is topped with a gilded copper statue of St Michael. Opposite the Town Hall and almost as grand is the Maison du Roi, commissioned in 1515 and faithfully rebuilt in the 1890s. Sometime pied--terre of the Hapsburg monarchy, the building now hosts the Muse de la Ville de Bruxelles and its small collection includes tapestries and altarpieces, as well as the costumes worn by the Manneken-Pis. A series of lavish Guildhouses complete the rectangle of the square – number ten still houses the guild of brewers, Maison de l’Arbre d’Or. Events, displays and markets are often held in the Grand-Place.

Grand-Place
Transport: Mtro Bourse, De Brouckre or Gare Centrale.

Muse de la Ville de Bruxelles
Tel: (02) 279 4355. Fax: (02): 279 4362.
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1300.
Admission: 2.48.

Manneken-Pis
The Rue de l’Etuve leads from the grandeur of Grand-Place to this allegory of irreverence and symbol of Bruxellois self-mockery – a bronze statuette of a urinating boy. If it were not for the occupation of the young child, the sculpture might resemble an angelic putto, such as the ones decorating the faade of the nearby Bourse (Stock Exchange), said to have been sculpted by Rodin. Jrme Duquesnoy cast Manneken-Pis in the 1660s, perhaps as a reference to the peasant lads of legend, who extinguished fires with their urine. Manneken-Pis is regularly kitted out in a choice of some 500 outfits supplied by companies, charities and other organisations wishing to promote their name or brand.

Rue de l’Etuve
Transport: Mtro Bourse.

Place du Grand-Sablon
Although the smartest square in town, the Place du Grand-Sablon remains laid-back. Notre-Dame du Sablon dominates the square. Although it began as a humble chapel for the guild of archers, the arrival of a statue of Mary – with reputed magical healing properties – from Antwerp, in 1348, dramatically increased its popularity. The building was expanded into an impressive Gothic church, which still hosts the annual Ommegang procession (see Cultural Events and Special Events). The area is a major centre for antiques dealers and hosts an busy antique and books market at the weekend.

It is worth a wander around the Sablon district. Intriguing cul-de-sacs lead off from the square to shady spaces – such as the charming Impasse Saint-Jacques. The nearby Place du Petit-Sablon is a small, green square, surrounded by 48 bronze statuettes representing the 16th-century guilds, with larger statues at its heart, including the martyr-heroes, Egmont and Hornes, and Mercator, the cartographer.

Place du Grand-Sablon
Transport: Bus 20, 34, 48, 95 or 96; tram 92, 93 or 94.

Notre-Dame du Sablon
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1800, Sat–Sun 1000–1800
Admission: Free.

Palais Royal (Royal Palace)
Some of Brussels’ most opulent buildings and key attractions are clustered around the centrally located Parc de Bruxelles, a formal 1870s park with poker-straight tree-lined avenues and a central fountain. The southeast edge is graced by the Palais des Acadmies, a former residence of the Prince of Orange and Place du Trne, an impressive statue of Lopold II astride a horse. Nearby, Brussel’s Royal Palace and museums are congregated. Opposite the Parc de Bruxelles lies the Palais Royal, begun by King William I (1815–30) in the 19th century and later expanded by Lopold II. The royal family now resides in Laeken, in northern Brussels. However, the palace is still used as royal office and for state functions. From the end of July until early September, the palace, with its Throne Room, chandeliers, tapestries and gracious dining room opens to the public.

Rue Bredeorde 16
Tel: (02) 551 2020. Fax: (02) 502 3949.
Website: www.belgium.fgov.be
Transport: Mtro Trne or Parc; tram 92, 93 or 94; bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1030–1730 (late Jul–early Sep).
Admission: Free.

Muses Bellevue (Bellevue Musuems)
The Muses Bellevue comprises two sites – the Muse de la Dynastie and the Mmorial Roi Baudouin. Both are located in the Htel Bellevue, an 18th-century mansion erected on the ruins of the 11th-century castle of the Dukes of Brabant and standing between the Place des Palais and Place Royale.

The Muse de la Dynastie displays royal memorabilia, from paintings to documents and sculpture, evoking the public and private lives of Belgian royalty and the events that shaped their reign. The Mmorial Roi Baudouin pays homage to the 43-year reign of King Baudouin, much loved by the Belgian people and sadly mourned, following his death in 1993. The memorial traces the life of Leopold III’s eldest son, from the untimely death of his mother to his early reign as king – following the abdication of his father – and key events duirng his reign, from the end of colonisation to the independence of the Congo and federalisation of Belgium.

Htel Bellevue, Place des Palais 7
Tel: (02) 512 2821 or 545 0801 (guided tours). Fax: (02) 511 4253.
E-mail: bellvue@kbs-frb.be
Website: www.musbellevue.be
Transport: Mtro Trne or Parc; tram 92, 93 or 94; bus 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 60, 71, 95 or 96.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–1700.
Admission: 6.20 (including audio-guide); concessions available.

Musum des Sciences Naturelles (Museum of Natural Sciences)
Close to the European Parliament and containing what is claimed to be one of the finest dinosaur collections in the world – ‘starring’ the iguanadons of Bernissart – this fascinating museum additionally features a special presentation on the Arctic and Antarctic regions. It is also possible for visitors to take a 1000m (3281ft) ‘dive’ to witness a fight between a sperm whale and a giant squid. All forms of wildlife, extinct and extant, plus mineralogy, are represented here.

Rue Vautier 29
Tel: (02) 627 4238, guided tours (02) 627 4234. Fax: (02) 627 4113.
Website: www.naturalsciences.be
Transport: Mtro Maelbeek; bus 12, 20, 21, 22, 34, 38, 54, 59, 60, 80, 95 or 96.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0930–1645, Sat–Sun 1000–1800.
Admission: 4 (concessions available).

Muse du Cinquantenaire (Cinquantenaire Museum)
Everything conceived by Lopold II was on a grandiose scale and the Parc du Cinquantenaire, built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence, is no exception. The Muse de l’Arme, situated in the north wing, has an interesting display of vintage aircraft and free entrance. However, the Muse du Cinquantenaire, formerly known as the Muses Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire (Royal Art and History Museum), is the major draw card of the area. Boasting collections from five continents, ranging from prehistory to the present, it includes Art Nouveau furniture designed by Victor Horta and fine examples of centuries-old lace. Comic strip fans might find some pieces familiar – the large Egyptian collection was the source of inspiration for Belgium’s artists, including Herg.

Parc du Cinquantenaire 10
Tel: (02) 741 7211. Fax: (02) 733 7735.
Transport: Train/mtro Mrode or Schuman; tram 81 or 82 (to Mrode); bus 20 or 80 (to Nerviens), 22 (to Cinquantenaire), 61 (to Mrode), 28, 36 or 67 (to Schuman).
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 0930–1700, Sat–Sun 1000–1700.
Admission: 4; free first Wed of the month 1300–1700.

Muses Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Belgian Royal Museums of Fine Art)
The most important of Belgium’s museum complexes is located close to Place Royal. It boasts two rich museums, their collections ranging from the 14th century to the modern day – the Muse d’Art Ancien (Museum of Ancient Art), housed in the former court of Charles de Lorraine, and the underground Muse d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art), inaugurated in 1984.

The Muse d’Art Ancien – also known as the Museum of Fine Arts – excels in its collection of the Old Masters, with works by Rubens, Bouts and Memling. Collections of Brueghel the Elder and Younger and Hieronymus Bosch are small, as Belgium’s foreign masters took most of these treasures away with them. A passageway leads to Muse d’Art Moderne, with its splendid collection of the Belgian Surrealists. Ren Magritte is given pride of place, although the haunting works of Paul Delvaux are also of interest. Picasso, Chagall, Henry Moore and Francis Bacon are also represented.

Rue de la Rgence 3
Tel: (02) 508 3211. Fax: (02) 508 3232.
E-mail: info@fine-arts-museum.be
Website: www.fine-arts-museum.be
Transport: Gare Centrale; tram 92, 93 or 94 (to Royale); bus 20, 34, 38. 60, 71, 95 or 96 (to Royale).
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–1200 and 1300–1700.
Admission: 5.

Further Distractions

Centre Belge de la Bande Dessine (Belgian Centre for Comic Strips)
The history of the Belgian comic strip, including its links with silent movies and animation, is displayed throughout the airy and uplifting Grand Magasin Waucquez, designed by Victor Horta. Original drawings by early masters – such as Andr Franquin, who created accident-prone Gaston Lagaffe, and Georges Remi (Herg), who breathed life into Tintin – are complemented by modern-day cartoons, temporary exhibitions, an exhaustive academic library, children’s library and a brasserie.

Rue des Sables 20
Tel: (02) 219 1980. Fax: (02) 219 2376.
Website: www.cbbd-bcb.org
Transport: Train/mtro Gare Centrale, Botanique, Rogier; tram 3, 52, 55, 56, 81, 90, 92, 93, 94; bus 38, 58 or 61.
Opening hours: Daily 1000–1800.
Admission: 6.20; concessions available; 1.24 (reference library).

Muse Horta (Horta Museum)
Victor Horta (1885–1946) worked to produce some 110 buildings, first in neo-Gothic style, famously in Art Nouveau and latterly in sparse Modernist style. Many – such as the Htel Solvay, Avenue Louise 224, and Htel Van Eetvelde at Avenue Palmerston 4 – are still standing. However, the Muse Horta – the architect’s former home and studio – is beautifully preserved and open to the general public. Attention to detail sweeps through the building, from the vertical letterbox and finely scripted number 25 on the faade to the sculpted staircase and dining room floor, where a marble mosaic encircles the finest American ash. A theatrical arrangement of secret front doors allowed the architect to welcome guests from different social and religious backgrounds without their being aware of each other’s presence.

Rue Amricaine 25
Tel: (02) 543 0490. Fax: (02) 538 7631.
E-mail: musee.horta@horta.irisnet.be
Website: www.hortamuseum.be
Transport: Tram 81, 82, 91 or 92; bus 54 or 60.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1400–1730.
Admission: 4.95.

Atomium and Mini-Europe
Lopold II bequeathed the 202-hectare (500-acre) estate of Heysel to the city of Brussels, in 1909. The large exhibition spaces are located here, to the northwest of the centre. Its most famous landmark, however, is the Atomium – a giant model of an oxygen molecule, built for the 1958 World Fair as a temporary structure, although never dismantled. The highest sphere gives a panoramic view of the entire region. The science exhibition is of interest only to young children. Nearby Mini-Europe shrinks Europe to a size that can be covered in a short walk, with faithful miniatures of the Eiffel Tower, Westminster and the Berlin Wall in the process of being dismantled. The year 2002 welcomed in the restoration of the model of the Cathedral of Saint Jacques de Compostella to its former glory.

Atomium
Boulevard du Centenaire
Tel: (02) 475 4776. Fax: (02) 475 4779.
Website: www.atomium.be
Transport: Mtro Heysel; bus 84 or 99; tram 23 or 81.
Opening hours: Daily 0900–1900 (Apr–Aug); daily 1000–1730 (Sep–Mar).
Admission: 5.45; 15 (combined Atomium and Mini-Europe ticket); concessions available.

Mini-Europe
Bruparck, Boulevard du Centenaire
Tel: (02) 474 1311. Fax: (02) 478 2675.
E-mail: info@minieurope.com
Website: www.minieurope.com
Transport: Mtro Heysel; bus 84 or 99; tram 23 or 81.
Opening hours: Daily 0930–1700 (Apr–Jun); Mon–Thurs 0930–1900, Fri–Sun 0930–2300 (Jul–Aug); daily 0930–1700 (Sep–Dec).
Admission: 11; 15 (combined Atomium and Mini-Europe ticket); concessions available.

Muse des Instruments de Musique (Musical Instrument Museum)
Located in the splendid Victor Horta-designed Art Nouveau Old England Building, at the Place Royale, the Musical Instrument Museum is home to a collection of instruments as well as information and activities covering ancient, modern and tradidtional music. A 200-seat concert hall hosts regular concerts (Thursday evenings, from October to May), which are organised to coincide with the various themes of the exhibitions.

Place Royale, Montagne de la Cour 2
Tel: (02) 545 0130. Fax: (02) 545 0178.
Website: www.mim.fgov.be
Transport: Mtro line 1A or 1B to Gare-Centrale or Park; tram 92, 93 or 94 to Royale; bus 20, 38, 60, 71, 95 or 96 to Royale.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri 0930–1700, Thurs 0930–2000 (concert at 2000), Sat and Sun 1000–1700.
Admission: 5 (concessions available).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The compact city centre of Brussels is tailor-made for walking tours. The Brussels Tourist Office (tel: (02) 513 8940) offers three-hour guided tours on a variety of themes – architecture, history, culture, cartoons, gastronomy and classical Brussels. Departure points vary depending on the tour chosen. Among the tours offered are a guided tour of 18th-century Brussels, the Charles de Lorraine tour and a walk in the footsteps of Jacques Brel. Tours cost 85. Highly recommended are underground visits at Palais Royal, to original 14th-century streets.

Bus Tours
Open-top, hop-on hop-off bus tours are available from Visit Brussels Line (tel: (02) 513 7744; website: www.brussels-city-tours.com), and City Sightseeing (tel: (02) 466 1111; e-mail: info@open-tours.com; website: www.open-tours.com). Prices start at 13.50 (concessions available) and tickets are valid for 24 hours. The bus sets off from Centraal Station and stops at many famous sights, such as the Atomium, Grand-Place and the Mannekin Pis, on this round trip. Both companies offer a range of other tour options, including excursions to other Belgian cities including Bruge and Antwerp.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Bruges: The heyday of Bruges lasted from the 13th century, when merchants became rich from the cloth trade, until the silting of the Zwin River brought about the city’s rapid decline. Nonetheless, Bruges remains one of the most beautifully preserved medieval cities in Europe and is Belgium’s top tourist attraction. Visitors can explore charming streets and canals, packed with little restaurants, atmospheric cafs and a cluster of interesting museums and churches. Bruges has recently gained a new concert venue. Michelangelo’s delicate marble Madonna and Child lies within the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady). Although situated some 80km (50 miles) west of Brussels, Bruges is well connected by public transport and motorways; it is just a one-hour train or bus ride away. The Tourist Office, Burg 11 (tel: (050) 448 686; website: www.bruges.be), can provide information and a hotel booking service.

For a Whole Day

Antwerp: Located 40km (25 miles) north of Brussels, Antwerp is tucked into the east bank of a bend in the Schelde River. Its largely quadri-lingual inhabitants – known as Sinjorens – are proud of the history and culture of their city, which reached its apogee in the 16th century. Masterpieces by Rubens (a former resident) and Van Dyck are on display at the Museum voor Schone Kunsten (Royal Museum of Fine Art), Lopold De Waelplaats (tel: (03) 238 7809). Antwerp is also a thriving port, the world’s leading diamond centre and now also an international fashion capital. Antwerp’s Centraal Station is easily reached by train from all three of Brussels’ principal stations. The Tourist Office, Grote Markt 15 (tel: (03) 232 0103), can provide a wealth of information on the city.

Namur: Located just 45km (28 miles) southeast of Brussels, Namur is a picturesque town with a hilltop citadel, which indicates its historic military importance at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers. Down by the riverbanks, meanwhile, there are pretty pedestrianised streets packed with interesting shops, fine old churches and a handful of decent museums. The pick of these is the Trsor du Prieur d’Oignies, housed in a convent at 17 Rue Julie Billiart, and boasting an exquisite collection of gold and silver work. Namur also has some top restaurants and a buzzing nightlife, thanks to its many university students. More information can be obtained from the Tourist Office, Place Lopold (tel: (081) 246 449), which is a two-minute walk from the station. Namur is easily accessible from all three stations in Brussels.

Sport

Football and cycling are the national passions. Brussels’ football clubs, RWDM (website: www.rwdm.be) and Union St-Gilloise, have their fans but RSC Anderlecht (website: www.rsca.be) has a faithful following who support the team at Stade Constant Vanden Stock, Avenue Tho Verbeeck 2 (tel: (02) 522 1539). Anderlecht frequently is at the top of the home league and sometimes makes it into the Champions League. Passions were raised to fever pitch in the European Championships 2000, which was hosted jointly by Belgium and Holland in a renamed and reconstructed stadium, Stade Roi Baudouin, Heysel (tel: (02) 474 3940). The stadium also hosts the Belgian national team’s home games and the cup final. Tickets to football matches are available through Maison du Football (tel: (02) 477 1211).

Belgium has an impressive record in cycling and Eddy Merckx did a fine PR job for the country by repeatedly winning the Tour de France in the 1960s and 1970s. His glory still lives on, celebrated annually in the Eddy Merckx Grand Prix, on the last Sunday of August. A more amateur affair follows the same 22km (14-mile) trip from the Gare du Nord to Heysel (tel: (02) 502 7355).

The major athletics event is the annual Ivo van Damme Memorial IAHF Grand Prix (tel: (02) 878 2025) held in the Stade Roi Baudouin in late August/early September. Amateurs take part in the Brussels 20km (12-mile) circular race held annually in May/June, which starts and finishes at the Esplanade du Cinquantenaire (tel: (02) 511 9000).

Fitness Centres: The vast Physical Golden Club, Place du Chatelain 33 (tel: (02) 539 3036), offers weights machines and fitness classes and has the added kudos of being the place where Jean-Claude van Damme started off his action movie career. Martial arts classes are predictably popular. A day pass costs 25. For the ultra well-heeled, Champneys (tel: (02) 542 4666/67) has opened up next to the Conran Hotel, 71B Avenue Louise. A ‘spa discover day’ costs 105.

Golf: The 18-hole Royal Amicale Anderlecht Golf Club, Rue Scholle 1 (tel: (02) 521 1687), is located within Brussels itself. The club charges 33 for a day of golfing during the week and 50 at weekends, when prior reservation is recommended. Membership is not required. Brabantse Golf, Steenwagenstraat 11, Melsbroek (tel: (02) 751 8205), is situated close to the airport. Membership is required and green fees are 30 weekdays and 45 at the weekend. There are two 18-hole courses at Royal Zoute Golf Club, Caddiespad 14, Knokke-le-Zoute (tel: (050) 623 029), located 100km (60 miles) north of Brussels in the seaside town of Knokke-le-Zoute. Visitors are welcome and green fees are 55–95, depending on the handicap of the player. Alternatively, there are 11 courses around Waterloo, just south of Brussels, offering golfing opportunities through a programme called Golf Pass Walloon Brabant.

The Fdration Royal Belge de Golf (tel: (02) 672 2389) can provide information on Belgium’s golf courses. Several golfing packages are available in a programme created by Martins Hotels (website: www.passbw.com).

Swimming: There are plenty of pools in Brussels’ sports centres. The one at the Centre Sportif de Woluwe St-Pierre, Avenue Salom 2 (tel: (02) 762 8522) is Olympic-sized. Ocade, Bruparck (tel: (02) 478 4944; website: www.oceade.be), within splashing distance of Mini-Europe (see Further Distractions), is a modern ‘fun’ baths.

Tennis and squash: The Centre Sportif de Woluwe St-Pierre, Avenue Salom 2 (tel: (02) 762 8522), has squash, badminton and tennis courts.

Shopping

Brussels’ classic souvenir is chocolate. Fresh creamy pralines are for sale at Wittamer, Place du Grand-Sablon, who have had almost a century to perfect their recipes. Other names to look out for is the top-quality Neuhaus, Grand-Place 27 and Galerie de la Reine 25–27, and Godiva, also located in the Grand-Place. Cheaper chocolates are available from the popular Lonidas chain, Boulevard Anspach 46. Belgian biscuits are also a gift guaranteed to bring a guilty smile to the receiver. Dandoy, Rue au Beurre 31, produce melt-in-your-mouth macaroons and the Brussels speciality speculoos – a gingerbread biscuit with a crunch. Beer is best bought at Bire Artisanale, Chausse de Wavre 174 (website: www.users.skynet.be/beermania), which stocks over 400 types of beer and glasses to suit.

Designer clothes are clustered around the smart Avenue Louise and Avenue de la Toison d’Or. Key shopping stops on Avenue Louise include Belgian designers at Shine’s new flagship store, located at 82–84 Avenue Louise – fantastic for stunning silk dresses and floaty, Chinese-inspired creations – and more down-to-earth daywear in muted tones at Caroline Biss, 21 Avenue Louise. Established and up-and-coming Belgian designers – such as Olivier Strelli, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Carine Lauwers – line the fashionable Rue Antoine Dansaert. Innovative Stijl has more avant-garde Belgian designer clothes, by designers such as Xavier Delcour and Olivier Theyskens, at number 74, underwear at number 47 and children’s clothes at Kat en Muis, number 32.

Children’s and adults’ tastes alike are met at Brussels’ many comic book shops. Among these is centrally located La Boutique Tintin, Rue de la Colline 13. Brussels lace – on show at the Lace Museum, Rue de la Violette 6 – is for sale at F Rubbrecht, Grand-Place 23, or at the city’s largest lace maker, Manufacture Belge de Dentelle, Galerie de la Reine 6–8. Most of the souvenir lace shops around Grand-Place are less authentic.

Every day is market day in the different parts of Brussels. Among the best of these is the flower market, open Tuesday to Sunday 0800–1800, at Grand-Place, also the site of the Sunday morning bird market. Antiques are sold at the market on Place du Grand-Sablon, Saturday 0900–1800 and Sunday 0900–1300, while the flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle, in the Marolles district, is open daily 0700–1300, at its best on weekend mornings. A more high street experience, however, is at hand at City 2 shopping mall, in the shop-studded Rue Neuve, where shops stay open on Fridays until 2000.

Standard shopping hours are 1000–1800/1900 but the Grand-Place area stays open until approximately 2000. Sales tax is 21% and can be refunded to non-EU citizens by any of the shops affiliated to Global Refund Belgium (tel: (02) 479 9461; fax: (02) 478 3664; e-mail: taxfree@be.globalrefund.com; website: www.globalrefund.com). Participating shops will issue a global refund cheque, which should be stamped at customs and then cashed upon leaving the country.

Culture

Brussels’ cultural life – or lives, rather, as the scene is linguistically split between French and Flemish – is booming, despite of a lack of funding partly caused by the language divide. Obviously, some art forms cross all language boundaries. French-Belgian cinema came to prominence in 1994, with Jan Bucquoy’s hilarious La Vie Sexuelle des Belges, while the more serious Flemish film, Daens (1992), directed by Stijn Coninx, was nominated Best Foreign Film at the 1992 Oscars. Contemporary dance came into its own in the 1980s, thanks to Flemish choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker (Rosas Company) and Wim Vandekeybus (Ultima Vez Company). Theatre is celebrated annually during the Kunstenfestivaldesarts (tel: (02) 7022 2199 or (02) 219 0707) in May. Opera is performed at the prestigious Thtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), where the rousing performance of an Auber opera provoked the audience into starting the Belgian revolution in 1830. Notable touring companies to perform here include the RSC and Comdie Franaise.

The principal cross-cultural venue is the Victor Horta-designed Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), which hosts major temporary art exhibitions, French theatrical productions, classical and contemporary dance, classical music and the finals for the internationally renowned Queen Elizabeth music competition. The Cirque Royal, Rue de l’Enseignement 81 (tel: (02) 218 2015; website: www.cirque-royal.org), allows for varied performances in the round, including classical music, dance, musicals and opera. The Halles de Schaerbeek, Rue Royale Sainte-Marie 22A (tel: (02) 227 5960), hosts large-scale operatic, theatrical and dance performances and pop acts. Flemish-language theatre and contemporary dance is well represented at the neo-Baroque Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwberg or Royal Flemish Theatre, Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050).

The ‘What’s On’ section of English-language Bulletin, the Wednesday pull-out section of Le Soir and the ‘Agenda’ section of the Brussel Deze Week free newspaper, available every Thursday, all provide cultural listings.

Information and tickets are available at the Brussels Tourist Office, Htel de Ville, Grand-Place (tel: (02) 513 8940; website: www.tib.be) and the Fnac store at the City 2 shopping complex, Rue Neuve (tel: (02) 275 1111). The Fnac booking line (tel: (0900) 00600) is for concert, theatre and exhibition theatre tickets. Ticket prices are usually priced around 13–70 for dance and theatre performances, anything from 15–90 for opera and approximately 6 for cinema.

Music: The national opera house, at the Thtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place du Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), continues to excel. With only 1200 seats, it is best for visitors to book in advance. For Flemish opera, one should take a trip to Vlaamse Opera, Van Ertbornstraat 8, Antwerp (tel: (03) 233 6685; website: www.vlaamseopera.be), or Ghent’s Schouwburg Straat 3 (tel: (09) 225 2425). The Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), is home to the National Orchestra (website: www.nob-onb.be) and Philharmonic Society, which organises most of the major concerts in Brussels. The season, annually consisting of over 350 concerts, runs from September to June.

In addition to these major venues, there is the intimate Conservatoire Royal de Musique, Rue de la Rgence 30 (tel: (02) 513 4587), which is tailor-made for chamber recitals. The auditorium at Muse d’Art Ancien, Rue de la Rgence 3 (tel: (02) 508 3211), hosts lunchtime concerts on Wednesday, from Autumn to Easter.

Theatre: There are over 30 theatres in Brussels. The leading French-language Thtre National, lost its home at the Centre Rogier (currently being demolished) and has taken up temporary residence in a disused Art Deco cinema palace at Boulevard Anspach 85 (tel: (02) 203 5303). Here aficionados can find polished renditions of classical European theatre. A permanent venue for the National Theatre is under construction at Boulevard Emile Jacqmain – the planned date of completion is 2004. The main Flemish theatre, Kaaitheater (tel: (02) 201 5959) has two locations – Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 and Kaaitheater Studios, Rue Notre-Dame de Sommeil 81. Innovative productions are performed in French at the Thtre le Public, Rue Braemt 64–70 (tel: (02) 223 2966), while literary discussions and readings take place at the Thtre-Pome, Rue d’Ecosse 30 (tel: (02) 538 6358). The American Theatre Company (e-mail: actbrussels@yahoo.com; website: www.atc-brussels.org) is an English-language theatre group based in Brussels, staging performances at The Studio Theatre, Rue Waelhem 73, Schaerbeek (tel: (02) 242 4905).

The one venue not to be missed is the Thtre de Toone, Impasse Schuddeveld 6, Petite Rue de Bouchers 21 (tel: (02) 511 7137), where classics such as Faust and King Lear are performed by marionettes manipulated by seven puppeteers. Performances are in French (peppered with local dialect), Flemish and occasionally English. It is housed in a 17th century pub and offers a good range of local beers for refreshment.

Dance: De Keersmaecker’s Rosas Company is closely linked to the Thtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; website: www.lamonnaie.be), while the works of radical choreographers – also contemporary music and avant-garde theatre – are often staged at the Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 (tel: (02) 201 5959), and Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg (Royal Flemish Theatre), Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050; website: www.kvs.be). Alternative music, dance and theatre is performed at the trendy Beursschouwdurg, Rue de la Caserne 37 (tel: (02) 513 8290). The venue is based in Rue Dansaert from September 2003. Although contemporary dance is extremely strong in Brussels, there is no dedicated dance venue. An interest in classical dance is best pursued at the Royal Ballet of Flanders (website: www.koninklijkballetvanvlaanderen.be) in Antwerp.

Film: About 50% of films are shown in English (‘VO’ – version originale), with French and Flemish subtitles. Programmes change each Wednesday. Hollywood blockbusters are shown at the 12-screen, ultra-modern UGC De Brouckre, Place de Brouckre 38 (tel: (0900) 10440). The cinema also puts on children’s films every Sunday morning at 1100, for only 1.60 per person (standard rates are 6.60). State-of-the-art Kinepolis, Boulevard du Centenaire 20, Bruparck (tel: (0900) 00555), boasts 28 auditoriums and Europe’s largest IMAX screen. The centrally located Actors Studio, Petite Rue des Bouchers 16 (tel: (02) 512 1696) specialises in arthouse cinema.

Cultural events: Each year, Brussels is at the heart of a lively cultural calendar, including the arts festival, Kunstenfestivaldesarts, in May, and the spectacular Ommegang procession in early July. The origins of the traditional Ommegang pageant are rooted in the 13th century, when aristocrats, the nobility and master guildsmen paid homage to the sovereign in a solemn procession. Today, a lively procession recreates the medieval event.

Literary Notes
Brussels sheltered Karl Marx in exile and it was here that he wrote the Communist Manifesto in February 1848. Victor Hugo was temporarily protected at Place des Barricades 4, before being exiled once again for protesting against the government’s ban on refugees. Perhaps the best literary ambassador of Brussels is the boy reporter, Tintin, created by Herg (Georges Remy, 1907–1983). Brussels-born Jacques Brel, the celebrated singer-songwriter of Ne Me Quitte Pas/Don’t Leave Me (1959), has been adopted by the French as their own, as have detective writer Georges Simenon, Marguerite Yourcenar and other Belgian luminaries. But Belgium developed its own national literary identity during the Symbolist movement and writers like Emile Verhaeren, Charles Van Lerberghe and Nobel Prize-winner Maurice Maeterlinck, created a misty, dreamy ambience for Art Nouveau Brussels. This taste for the fantastic and otherworldly, hidden in the hearts of staid Brussels burghers, was continued by Henri Michaux and the surreal visions of Magritte and Delvaux. This vision was shared by the comic artists too. Belgians have commandeered the Francophone comic book industry – Herg is just the tip of the iceberg – proof that Belgians do whimsy and goofy charm far better than the French. For a British take on Brussels, readers should try the modern bestseller, Travels as a Brussels Scout (1997), by London-born author Nick Middleton.

Nightlife

Brussels’ location at the heart of Europe encourages top artists and budding stars to tour here. However, the city has a thriving homegrown scene of its own. Jazz has been strong since the 1920s and there is year-round live jazz in a cluster of venues, climaxing in the annual Brussels Jazz Festival. The club scene is relatively new, drawing the crowds after much lingering in the city’s many bars and Irish pubs that overflow with expatriates. The legal drinking age in Belgium is 16 years and the price of a beer is around 2.

Aside from the tacky discos for tourists, there is the big-name-DJ-drawing The Fuse (see Clubs below). The best send out their sounds into the night, around Place de St-Gry, Manneken-Pis and in the Marolles district. Clubs open at 2300, heat up at midnight and survive until about 0600. Being foreign and dressed in tune with the club’s image helps the admission process along considerably. Entrance is sometimes free but will more likely cost around 7.

The Fnac, in the City 2 complex on Rue Neuve, is the best place for club tickets, although the Tourist Office on Grand-Place may also be of help. Perhaps the highlight of the clubbing year is the Klinkende Munt outdoor music festival, held every July in Brussels at the Place de la Monnaie, Petit-Chateau and the Beursschouwburg.

Listings and information on nightlife events in Brussels can be found online (website: www.funinbrussels.com/midnight/discotheque.htm or www.noctis.com). Tels Quels magazine (in French) has the most comprehensive gay nightlife listings.

Bars: Belgium is justly famous for its superb selection of beers, not least those created by Trappist monks at various monasteries around the country. Brussels, furthermore, has its own idiosyncratic varieties, notably Gueuze and the fruit flavoured Kriek varieties. A wide selection (more than 150) of Belgian beers can be found at the Loplop Cafe, Schildknaapstraat 29 (website: www.loplopcafe.com). Other centrally located beer havens include La Bcasse, Rue de Tabora 11, A La Mort Subite, Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagres, and La Rose Blanche, Grande-Place 11. Le Soleil, Rue des Capucins 63, is an intimate little bar, tailor-made for an evening of good beer and good chats. A number of bars transform into clubs as the night wears on, including lively Le Sud, Rue de l’Ecuyer 43–5, open Thursday to Saturday. A quieter evening is on offer at the Thtre de Toone VII, Impasse Schuddeveld 6, off Petite Rue de Bouchers, where puppets form a backdrop to the drinking. For the younger audience, the bars around Place St Gry are popular venues.

Casinos: There is a casino in nearby Namur. The Casino de Naumur, Avenue Baron Moreau 1, is open daily 1400–0500. Visitors are required to hold a passport or ID document and dress code is smart (strictly no trainers). The minimum age for entry is 21 years.

Clubs: Top international DJs play techno, house and jungle at The Fuse, Rue Blaes 208. Mirano Contintal, Chemin de Louvain 38, is tacky with a yuppie crowd, while Le Bal, Boulevard du Triomphe, is just tacky. Tourists might meet other tourists at Espace de Nuit, Rue March aux Fromages, near Grand-Place, while most of the hipper clubs have a gay (and sometimes lesbian) night. The Brussels trendy set goes to Les Jeux d’Hiver, Bois de la Cambre.

Live music: Jazz dominates the live music scene in Brussels. There is jazz on Saturday and most Sundays at L’Archiduc, Rue Antoine Dansaert 6. Frequent concerts at Fool Moon, Quai de Mariemont 26, featuring anything from jazz-funk to drum‘n’bass and Latin music. Although VK is a trek away at Rue de l’Ecole 76, this is where alternative sounds – hip hop, rock and indie music – are given a hearing. Magasin 4, Rue du Magasin 4, offers a more central venue for indie and hip hop. Folk fans should try Thunderbird Caf, Quai du Commerce 48, where there are usually twice-weekly gigs on offer, as well as good food. Informal weekend jazz ‘jam sessions’ are a feature of the LopLop Caf (see Bars above).

The main venues for touring big-names are the Forest National, Avenue du Globe 36, and AB (Ancienne Belgique), Boulevard Anspach, for the bigger gigs, and Botanique, Rue Royale 236, and Cirque Royal, Rue de l’Enseignement 81, for smaller acts.

City Statistics

Location: Brussels region, Belgium.
Country dialling code: 32.
Population: 135,000 (city); 970,500 (metropolitan area).
Religion: Majority Catholic, with significant Protestant, Jewish and Muslim communities.
Ethnic mix: Majority Belgian (French and Flemish), with large minorities from other EU states, Morocco and Turkey.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in September).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; European two-pin round plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 3C (37.5F).
Average July temp: 17.5C (63.5F).
Annual rainfall: 740mm (29 inches).

Special Events

International Festival of Films of the Fantastic, Thrillers and Science Fiction, Mar, Passage 44 and Nova
Ars Musica, contemporary music festival, Mar, various venues
Baroque Spring Festival at Sablon, Baroque music festival, Apr, Sablon district
Brussels Film Festival, Apr, Flagey
Zinneke Parade, cultural festival, late May, Grand-Place
Brussels Gay Pride, early May, various venues
Brussels Jazz Marathon, late May, Grand-Place and various venues
Kunstenfestivaldesarts, dance, theatre and opera festival, May, various venues
Couleur Caf, world music concerts, late Jun, Thurn et Taxis Building
Visits to the Royal Palace, Jul–Sep, Royal Palace
Ommegang, procession, early Jul, Grand Place
Klinkende Munt, dance and outdoor music festival, early Jul, Place de la Monnaie
Mini-Europe by Night, fireworks displays, Fri–Sun mid Jul–mid Aug, Mini-Europe
Meyboom, traditional pageant with maypole dancing, Aug, Place des Sablons to Grand-Place
Flower Carpet, thousands of begonias are laid out in gorgeous designs, Aug, Grand-Place
Brussels Heritage Days, free admission to museums and public buildings not usually open to the general public, mid Sep, various venues
Audi-Jazz Festival, Oct–Nov, various venues
Sablon Nights, antiques and art galleries festival, Nov, Sablon district
Christmas Market, Dec, Grand Place
Ice Skating, Dec–Jan, Fish Markt

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 0.75
33cl bottle of beer: 0.60
Financial Times newspaper: 2.40
36-exposure colour film: 5
City-centre bus ticket: 1.40
Adult football ticket: 7–21
Three-course meal with wine/beer: 10–50

1 Euro (1) = 0.67; US$1.29; C$1.61; A$1.65
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005