World City Guide

Mini Guide of Barcelona

City Overview

Just decades ago, few tourists would have considered visiting the northern Spanish city of Barcelona. However, this once rather rundown industrial centre, which seemed to have little to offer, has undergone a seismic change that culminated in the hosting of the Olympic Games in 1992, an event which completely transformed Barcelona. As well as a string of purpose built sporting developments springing up all over the city (with the epicentre on the slopes of Montjuc) Barcelona also benefited from major investments.

Barcelona has since become something of a Mecca for the world’s top architects, who have flocked here to conjure up an array of modern structures and avant-garde designs. Many have drawn their inspiration from the seminal work of Barcelona’s most famous son, the modernist architect Antoni Gaudi, whose unique style can still be savoured in a number of key buildings around the city. His masterpiece is the unfinished Sagrada Familia cathedral, but his work can be seen even in the lampposts and fountains of Plaa Reial. Fortunately, the rush of new construction has not completely dwarfed the older buildings, as the old and new architectural styles harmoniously combine. Barcelona is the kind of city where a contemporary glass and steel office block can rest happily within striking distance of a gothic cathedral, a city where the old port has been rejuvenated without losing any of its charm.

As the capital of Catalunya, the city is also solidifying its position as a major regional economic power, tucked, as it is, strategically close to the French border and with a wide Mediterranean coastline. Its key industries include manufacture, textiles, electronics and tourism – in 2003, Catalunya received 14,540,000 visitors from a total of over 50 million throughout Spain. The economy of Barcelona has been steadily expanding during the past decade and although it contains just 4% of the Spanish population, the city contributes 14.29% to the country’s GDP.

The locals are very aware of the city’s potential and a strong desire still remains among some to create an independent Catalan state with Barcelona at its helm, instead of the current Spanish set up, where Barcelona plays second fiddle in political terms to Madrid. Some observers believe that the desire for outright independence has waned since the death of General Franco and the granting of a greater deal of autonomy to the region. Nevertheless, in the bars and cafs of the city, the patriotic feelings still remain strong. Nowhere is this proud drive for greater self-determination more evocative than at Camp Nou, the home of Barcelona FC (one of Europe’s greatest football teams) when a capacity 120,000 crowd pulsates to a rousing victory over arch rivals Real Madrid.

With a balmy year round climate (not too steamily hot in summer and with few genuinely cold days in winter) it is not surprising that Barcelona is attracting an increasing number of visitors. Indeed, with cheap air travel becoming more popular, Barcelona has entered the millennium as one of Europe’s most popular short break destinations.

Getting There By Air

El Prat de Llobregat (BCN)
Tel: (93) 298 3838. Fax: (93) 479 3902.
E-mail: bcninfofi@aena.es
Website: www.aena.es

The airport is located 12km (7 miles) southwest of the city centre and has three terminals (A, B and C). There are daily direct flights between Barcelona and more than 30 international destinations – several further destinations are served by less frequent direct flights. The airport had over 22 million passengers passing through in 2003, compared with just 10 million in 1992, the year of the Barcelona Olympics. The airport ranks second in Spain and a third runway and a new offloading area have been planned for 2006, to cater for the increasing volume of air traffic.

Major airlines: Foreign airlines mostly use terminal A. International flights run by Iberia (IB), the national airline, usually use terminal B. Information on Iberia is available from Info-Iberia (tel: (902) 400 500; e-mail: infoib@iberia.com; website: www.iberia.com) or the travel office in Avenida Gran Via Corts Catalanes 629 (tel: (902) 400 500). Other major domestic and international carriers include Air France, Alitalia, BMI Baby, British Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta, easyJet, Iberia, KLM, Lufthansa, SAS, Spanair and Virgin Express.

Approximate flight times to Barcelona: From London is 2 hours; from New York is 7 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 13 hours; from Toronto is 14 hours 10 minutes; and from Sydney is 25 hours 15 minutes.

Airport facilities: BBVA bank (open Monday-Friday 0800-1500, Saturday 0800-1330 from October to March) and La Caixa (open Monday-Friday 0700-2300) offer banking facilities in terminals A and B. Bureaux de change (terminals A and B) are open 0700-2300. Car hire services are available from Avis, Europcar, Hertz and National Atesa. Other facilities include tourist information desks, open daily 0900-2100 (tel: (93) 478 4704), a hotel information desk (terminal B), duty-free shopping (terminals A and B), left luggage (Technical Block), post office (terminal B – open Monday-Friday 0830-1430 and Saturday 0930-1300), shops, restaurants and bars. Terminal B has a chemist and there are 24-hour medical facilities in the Technical Block.

Business facilities: There is no business centre at the airport but various airlines offer access to the VIP lounges in Terminals A and B.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: A RENFE (tel: (902) 240 202; website: www.renfe.es) train leaves the airport for the city centre every 30 minutes daily 0613-2340, stopping at Central-Sants (journey time – 17 minutes), Plaa de Catalunya (journey time – 23 minutes), Arc de Triomf (journey time – 26 minutes) and Clot-Arag (journey time – 30 minutes) for connections to the metro. The fare is 2.20.

An Aerobs service (tel: (93) 415 6020; e-mail: info@emt-amb.com; website: www.emt-amb.com) runs to Plaa de Catalunya via Gran Via every 15 minutes weekdays 0600-2400 and every 30 minutes weekends 0630-2400 (journey time – 15-30 minutes). The fare is 3.45 (return 5.90), payable by credit card.

Taxis to and from the airport charge a minimum of 10. The ride to a downtown hotel will cost approximately 20, including a 2 airport supplement and a supplement of 0.85 per suitcase. Taxi ranks are located outside the terminal buildings.

Getting There By Water

Located close to the city centre, to the west of Montjuc and below Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter), the Port de Barcelona, run by Autoritat Porturia de Barcelona (tel: (93) 306 8800; website: www.apb.es), has re-established its status as one of the major Mediterranean maritime destinations in recent years. In addition to being an important cargo port, it is the second largest Mediterranean cruise centre after Athens. In 2003, the port handled 699 liners and over a million passengers.

Crueurs del Porte de Barcelona (tel: (93) 306 8800) runs five cruise ship terminals (two at Moll Adossat and two at Moll Barcelona and one at Moll Espanya) and the Autoritat Porturia de Barcelona (tel: (93) 306 8800) runs the Port Vell terminal. All the terminals have tourist information centres, travel agencies, a flight connection service, bureaux de change, first-aid facilities, duty-free and souvenir shops, bars, restaurants and international newspaper stands. Taxis and shuttle buses provide transportation to the city centre. Parking and car hire services are also available.

Ferry services: For ferries to Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza, the Estaci Martima Balears (Balearic Maritime Station) is located at Moll de Sant Bertran 3 (tel: (93) 295 9100). The nearest metro stop is Drassanes (line 3). Trasmediterrnea (tel: (90) 245 4645 or (93) 295 9100; fax: (93) 295 9135; e-mail: correom@trasmediterranea.es; website: www.trasmediterranea.es), runs ferries to Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza in the Balearic Islands. They also operate a fast ferry service between Barcelona and Palma. Single fares start from 40 for the standard ferry.

Transport to the city: The TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net) metro links the port to the centre of Barcelona.

Getting There By Road

Motorways (Autopista) are prefixed by the letter ‘A’, while highways (Autova) and other major roads (Carretera Nacional) are indicated by either two Roman numerals or, more commonly, three digits. Many motorways have tolls. Rates are shown at tollbooths and payment must be made in Euro – cash is preferred, although major credit cards might also be accepted.

Traffic drives on the right. No person under 18 years may hire or ride a vehicle over 75cc. Seatbelts are compulsory for front-seat passengers in cars. Crash helmets must be worn on motorcycles. After sunset, sidelights must be used at all times – spare bulbs and red hazard triangles must be kept in all vehicles. The speed limit for cars and motorcycles is 120kph (74mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on dual carriageways, 90kph (56mph) on roads outside built-up areas and 50kph (31mph) within towns. Fines for traffic offences are strictly enforced. The legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

Foreign visitors require a valid driving licence to drive in Spain. National licences from EU countries are accepted, although nationals of other countries, including the USA, Canada and Australia, are advised to obtain an International Driving Permit. Third party insurance is required and documents should be carried at all times. A Green Card is strongly recommended for all visitors and is compulsory for those from outside the EU.

Breakdown services and motoring information can be obtained from the Real Automobile Club de Catalunya (RACC), Avenida Diagonal 687 (tel: (93) 495 5050 for 24-hour information; website: www.racc.es).

Emergency breakdown services:
RACC (93) 495 5050 (24-hour line).

Alternatively drivers should contact the Ayuda en Carretera, run by the Guardia Civil, via the roadside SOS telephones located on both sides of the carriageway at 2km (1-mile) intervals.

Routes to the city: The A7 motorway is the main route to Barcelona from France and runs down the coast past Valencia, as far as Alicante to the south. The A2 heads inland to the west for Zaragoza and connections to Madrid. The A19 hugs the coast for a short distance to the northeast of the city.

Approximate driving times to Barcelona: From Zaragoza – 3 hours 15 minutes; Valencia – 3 hours; Madrid – 5 hours 30 minutes.

Coach services: Eurolines international coach services (tel: (902) 405 040; website: www.eurolines.es) use Estaci Autobuses de Sants, situated next to the Central-Sants train station, Carrer Viriato (tel: (93) 490 4000), although services to France also stop at Estaci del Nord, Avenida Vilanova (tel: (902) 260 606). Most long-distance coaches from other parts of Spain operate from the Estaci del Nord. There are Eurolines services to major European cities, including Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London, Prague and Rome.

Getting There By Rail

RENFE (tel: (902) 240 202, for 24-hour information; website: www.renfe.es) operates the Spanish rail network, which radiates from Madrid to all the major cities. There are also transversal routes and services running from the French border along the Mediterranean coast. Some of the services are swifter and more reliable than others. The least convenient are tranva, semidirecto and correo trains, all of which chug along at a leisurely pace. Seat reservations are required on all intercity trains. Supplements are payable on many faster trains, even for passengers holding Interail and Eurail passes, although the amount is generally worth paying for a more efficient service.

Estaci Central-Sants, Plaa del Pasos Catalans (tel: (93) 495 6215) is the city’s main railway station, serving national and international destinations as well as suburban routes. Facilities in the station building include tourist information, hotel information, left luggage, a bank offering currency exchange (open daily 0800-2200), a restaurant and cafeteria, shops, a first-aid point, showers, lockers and secure parking. Another railway station, Estaci de Frana, Avenida Marqus de l’Argentera, offers mainly southbound regional services. On some train routes, an alternative to both these stations is Passeig de Grcia station, located close to Plaa de Catalunya and La Rambla.

Rail services: There are direct trains to Barcelona from Paris (journey time – 11 hours 15 minutes), Montpellier (journey time – 4 hours 30 minutes), Milan (journey time – 13 hours 15 minutes) and Zurich (journey time – 13 hours). There are eight daily departures to Madrid (journey time – 8 hours), including three sleeper services. A new high-speed rail service linking Barcelona with Madrid is due for completion in 2005, and will eventually extend to the French TVG network too.

Transport to the city: Central-Sants is situated some distance from the city centre but is located at the junction of two TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net) metro lines – the green line (3) and the blue line (5). Estaci de Frana is situated near the Barceloneta metro stop, while Passeig de Grcia station is located at the junction of three metro lines – the purple line (2), the green line (3) and the yellow line (4).

Getting Around

Public Transport
With the exception of one metro line, transport in the city is operated by TMB (tel: (93) 298 7000; website: www.tmb.net). There are TMB information offices in the foyer of the Universitat metro station, open Monday to Friday 0800-2000. There are also offices at Diagonal, Sants Estacio and Sagrada Familia metro stations.

Regional rail services and the purple metro line are operated by Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya – FGC (tel: (93) 205 1515; website: www.fgc.es). The information office, located in the Catalunya metro station, is open Monday to Friday 0700-2100.

Apart from during the rush hour (0730-0930 and 1800-2030), when it becomes very crowded, the metro (M) is the most efficient means of transport in the city. Metro lines are all identified by a number and a colour – the direction is shown by the name of the line terminus. A single ticket (billet senzill) costs 1.10 and must be validated in a machine on the platform before boarding and carried at all times to avoid the 40 penalty. Tickets are available for purchase at TMB customer service centres, ticket offices and the automatic vending machines at the metro stations. The metro runs from Monday to Thursday 0500-2400, Friday and Saturday until 0200 and Sunday 0600-2400. The FGC line is fully integrated with the rest of the TMB-operated metro system and runs Monday to Thursday 05.45-midnight, Friday and Saturday 05.50-0215 and Sunday 05.50-midnight.

Buses in the city run daily from approximately 0630 until around 2200. The network is extensive and almost all services run through Plaa de Catalunya, Plaa Urquinaona or Plaa de la Universitat. Single tickets are available for purchase from the driver and cost 1.10. Travel cards must be validated in machines upon boarding. There are 16 night-bus routes, running daily every 30-45 minutes from 2300-0400 to some destinations, which require separate tickets. The TombBs is a shopping service that runs weekdays very 7 minutes and Saturdays every 15 minutes during summer between Plaa de Catalunya and Plaa Pius XII (Monday to Friday 0730-2158 and Saturday 0930-2145). A single ticket costs 1.35.

There are a number of multi-ride tickets available (including the T-10 for 10 journeys and T-50/30 for 50 journeys within 30 days) costing between 6 and 96.20, depending on number of zones, validity period, modes of transport and changes permitted. There is also a variety of passes available, including one-day (4.60) and monthly (38.80) passes. In addition, for tourists, there are two-day (8.40), three-day (11.80), four-day (15.20) and five-day (18.20) passes, which cover all transport in the city, including the journey to and from the airport. These are available for purchase at TMB customer service centres, metro ticket offices, automatic vending machines and at FGC railway stations.

For the suburbs and surrounding areas there are regional rail lines run by the FGC and RENFE (see Getting There By Rail). The RENFE local network is known as Rodalies or Cercanas and the central station in the city is Plaa de Catalunya.

A funicular railway trundles up Montjuc from the corner of Carrer Nou de la Rambla and Avenida Parallel to Avenida Miramar daily 0900-2000 (2200 in summer), costing 1.10. From the amusement park, there is a cable car (telefric) to Montjuc Castle daily 1100-1915. This costs 3.60 for a single and 5 for a return journey. A further cable car operates every 15 minutes from the San Sebastian Tower in the Barceloneta district to Montjuc, stopping en route at the Jaume I tower, near the World Trade Centre. This operates daily from 1030-1900 (from March to mid June), 1030-2000 (from mid June to mid September), 1030-1900 (from mid September to mid October) and 1030-1730 (from mid October to February). Tickets cost 7.50 for a single or 9 for a return journey.

Taxis
There are 11,000 yellow-and-black registered cabs operating in the city. Not only available on the street, taxis can also be booked in advance. Reliable companies include Radio Taxi (tel: (93) 303 3033) and Servitaxi (tel: (93) 330 0300; website: www.servitaxi.com). The basic fare is 2, which should be displayed on the meter – each kilometre is charged at 0.85 and a 0.85 supplement is charged for each piece of large luggage. Taxi drivers should be tipped 5-10% of the meter fare.

Limousines
A number of companies offer limousine services with multi-lingual drivers. Barcelona Limousine Service (tel: (93) 247 0699; fax: (93) 265 1484; e-mail: bcnlimousine@spain-bcnlimo.com; website: www.spain-bcnlimo.com) charges from 300 for eight hours of limousine hire. Limousine Rental (tel/fax: (902) 372 000; e-mail: central@limorent.com; website: www.limorent.com), hires out limousines at 45 for airport transfers and 227.70-540 for a full day.

Driving in the City
The proximity of the main attractions and the excellent public transport system in Barcelona makes driving unnecessary in the city. Driving in Barcelona can be quite daunting, especially at rush hour (early morning, lunchtime and early evening) or on the fast multilane avenues in the city centre. A detailed map is a necessity for managing the complicated one-way system and it is advisable for visitors to plan their route in advance.

Parking is tricky in some areas. Cars require a paid ticket to park in the ‘blue’ zones, daily 0800-1400 and 1600-2000. Illegal parking results in the offending vehicle being towed away. Parking costs from 1-3 per hour to 20 per day. There are numerous car parks in the city centre, which charge approximately 1.60 an hour and 17.50-20 a day.

Car Hire
Drivers must be 21 years or older to hire a car in Barcelona. A passport and a valid driving licence are required. A valid international insurance policy is also necessary, although this can be purchased at the time of hire.

In addition to companies at the airport, car hire in Barcelona is provided by Avis, Sants Railway Station, Plaza Paisos Catalans s/n (tel: (93) 3304193; website: www.avis.com), and Hertz, Carrer Tuset 10 (tel: (93) 217 8076; website: www.hertz.com). Hire of a small car costs from 28 a day and from 230 a week.

Bicycle Hire
Barcelona has a limited network of bicycle lanes and bicycle racks. Bicycles can be carried on the public transport system, although there are some peak hour restrictions. Bicycles are available for hire from Al Punt de Trobada, Carrer Badajoz 24 (tel: (93) 225 0585), Un Coxte Menys, Esparteria 3 (tel: (93) 268 2105), and Biciclot, Carrer Vernada 16 (tel: (93) 307 7475). Hire charges start at around 5 an hour or 15 a day. ID is required.

Business

Business Profile
In business terms, Barcelona is on the up and up. Over the last decade, the city has fully utilised its potential as the gateway between Iberia and the rest of Western Europe. It has re-established itself as a major Mediterranean port that can compete with the likes of Marseilles and Genoa, thanks in part to the Spanish Ports Law, which has given more independent control to the Autoritat Porturia de Barcelona.

Barcelona is one of the largest industrial centres of Spain, with a strong background in manufacturing based on textiles and a large motor industry – Nissan and Seat have vehicle production plants in the city. Along with the port, these are the main employers in the city. Consumer electronics and chemical and pharmaceutical research are other major industrial sectors and the city is also strong in design, publishing and advertising.

Although Barcelona has a stock market and a bond derivatives market, it has failed to emerge as a major financial or banking centre to rival Madrid. It is, however, the country’s major convention and trade fair centre, with impressive facilities including Montjuc 1 and 2, Avenida Reina M Crisina (tel: (93) 233 2000; fax: (93) 233 2386; website: www.firabcn.es), which catered for over two million visitors in 2004, as well as the state-of-the-art World Trade Center (tel: (93) 508 8000; fax: (93) 508 8010; website: www.wtcbarcelona.com) at Port Vell.

The Olympic Games in 1992 was a pivotal event in business terms, as it provided the impetus and investment necessary to improve the infrastructure of the city through eight billion dollars of investment. The games’ massive marketing project successfully promoted the city as an efficient, business-like centre and initiated a massive surge of investment in the hotel and tourism sector. The city’s economy has been steadily growing over the past decade, reflected in an Arthur Andersen study for Fortune magazine in 2000, which ranked Barcelona’s economic progress third among cities of the world. This year (2004) alone has seen a further 4% in economic growth. Today, around 45% of all foreign visitors come to Barcelona on business. The number of tourists visiting the city has risen too, from 1.7 million in 1990 to over 3.8 million in 2003.

Eixample is the main business district, with Avenida Diagonal at the very heart of Barcelona’s commercial life. The Barcelona Chamber of Commerce is located here (tel: (902) 448 448; fax: (93) 916 9301; website: www.cambrabcn.es).

Business Etiquette
The business community in Barcelona is accustomed to hosting foreign visitors and many international business people speak English or French. Catalan is used in a business setting among native speakers; otherwise Castilian Spanish is used.

Business hours are generally 0800 or 0900 until 1800 or 1900, with an extended lunch break between 1330 and 1500 or 1600. These hours may vary depending on the size and type of organisation. Punctuality is important. Formal wear is the norm and both men and women should wear a suit for business meetings – men should also wear a tie. Business cards should be exchanged after introduction. All Spaniards have two family names – only the first is used in conversation, but any academic or professional titles should be acknowledged.

Invites to homes are not common and clients or business associates tend instead to be invited out, usually to pre-dinner drinks and tapas or to dinner.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Barcelona is neatly framed by the Mediterranean to the east and the hills of Montjuc and Tibidabo on two of its other flanks. The central section of the city, where most tourists spend their time, is even more conveniently divided by La Rambla, the main artery of Barcelona life, which tumbles from Plaa de Catalunya southeast towards the Mediterranean and the recently reborn districts of Port Vell (Old Port), and trendy La Ribera (The Waterfront). The atmospheric Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter), the area to the right of La Rambla, heading in the direction of Plaa de Catalunya, is the charming heart of the old city, embracing the Catedral de la Seu and Museu Picasso amid narrow streets and hidden squares. Plaa de Catalunya divides the old town from the Eixample (a grid of streets laid out in the 19th century) in which much of the city’s finest Modernist architecture is to be found, including the celebrated Sagrada Famlia, a marvel of design by Anton Gaudi.

An eccentric recluse, Gaud was the most celebrated practitioner of the Modernist style, whose innovative work threw all design rulebooks out of the window in his quest to get architecture to mirror the curves and intricacies of nature. In addition to those sights described in Key Attractions, further architectural highlights include Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau and the Palau de la Msica Catalana, both designed by Gaud’s contemporary, Domnech i Montaner. Passeig de Grcia, the most stylish street in the city, is at the heart of the Eixample and intersects with the Diagonal – the city’s main thoroughfare, at its northern end.

The Montjuc mountainside has successfully managed the transition from being the site of the 1992 Olympic Games to become a permanent tourist attraction, boasting the remaining Olympic installations, such noteworthy museums as Fundaci Joan Mir and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, as well as great views of the city.

Tourist Information
Centre d’Informaci Turisme de Barcelona
Plaa de Catalunya 17-S
Tel: (807) 117 222 (within Spain) or (93) 285 38344 (international). Fax: (93) 285 3831.
E-mail: teltur@barcelonaturisme.com
Website: www.barcelonaturisme.com
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2100.

Other information desks can be found at the airport, at Central-Sants station and in Plaa Sant Jaume.

Passes
The Barcelona Card offers discounts of up to 50% at many of the most interesting tourist attractions, including museums, entertainment and leisure venues, shops and restaurants, as well as free public transport and assistance insurance. Attractions include Museu Picasso, Casa-Museu Gaud and Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona. The card is available for one, two, three, four or five days, for 17, 20, 24, 27 and 30 respectively, from the main tourist offices at Plaa de Catalunya, Plaa Sant Jaume and Central-Sants station.

The Articket gives half-price admission to six of the city’s main art galleries and museums – Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Fundaci Joan Mir, Fundaci Antoni Tpies, Centre de Cultura Contempornia de Barcelona (CCCB), Centre Cultural Caixa de Catalunya and Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA). It is available for 15.00 from any of the respective box offices and branches of Caixa Catalunya.

Key Attractions

Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family)
Gaud’s unfinished masterpiece and the city’s most outlandish landmark, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, towers crazily above the grid-like streets of the Eixample. Despite being very much a building site, the cathedral has a certain beauty that somehow emerges, despite the omnipresent scaffoldings. However, it remains the subject of continual controversy over who should pay for its completion. The extraordinary structure has elicited cries of astonishment, awe, amusement and anger from visitors and residents alike, although it remains one of the city’s most visited attractions.

Carrer de Mallorca 401.
Tel: (93) 207 3031. Fax: (93) 476 1010.
E-mail: informa@sagradafamilia.org
Website: www.sagradafamilia.org
Transport: Metro Sagrada Familia.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Oct-Mar); daily 0900-2000 (Apr-Sep).
Admission: 8.

Museu Picasso (Picasso Museum)
The Picasso Museum is one of the city’s main tourist attractions, housed in two 15th-century palaces close to the Parc de la Ciutadella. The impressive permanent collection is devoted to the artist’s early work, including a large number of childhood sketches, paintings from the Blue Period (1901–1904) and the Pink Period (1907–1920), exhibition posters, ceramics and cubist works. There are also two exhibition spaces for temporary exhibitions.

Carrer Montcada 15-23
Tel: (93) 319 6310. Fax: (93) 315 0102.
E-mail: museupicasso@mail.bcn.es
Website: www.museupicasso.bcn.es
Transport: Metro Jaume I.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500.
Admission: 6; concessions available.

La Rambla
La Rambla is not one street but rather a seamless series of pedestrian avenues stretching from the Monument a Colom on the waterfront to Plaa de Catalunya in the centre of the city. La Rambla has the same place in the psyche of the city as the Champs Elyses in Paris or Oxford Street in London do, although it is far less snooty than the former and far more attractive than the latter. Lined with trees, cafs, restaurants, flower stalls, shops and newspaper stands, La Rambla is the perfect place in which to stroll and soak up the unique Barcelona atmosphere.

Attractions along the way include Gaud’s first major architectural project, Palau Gell (Gell Palace). Plaa Reial, just off La Rambla, is one of the most attractive squares in the city – elegant 19th-century houses look down on palm trees, lampposts designed by Gaud, and an eclectic mix of people enjoying the lively atmosphere at outdoor cafs. Some of La Rambla’s most captivating attractions are its famous street entertainers who delight the crowds with their weird and wacky shows. Other points of interest are the Gran Teatre del Liceu and the legendary Caf de L’Opera opposite, as well as La Boqueria, Barcelona’s wonderful, bustling food market.

La Rambla
Transport: Metro Liceo or Drassenes; bus 14, 38, 59 or 91.

Palau Gell
Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3–5
Tel: (93) 317 3974.
E-mail: info@gaudiclub.com
Website: www.gaudiclub.com
Opening hours: Closed until 2007 for renovations.
Admission: 2.40.

Gran Teatre del Liceu
La Rambla 51–59
Tel: (93) 485 9900 (information). Fax: (93) 485 9918.
E-mail: informacio@liceubarcelona.com
Website: www.liceubarcelona.com
Opening hours: Performances daily 1700 and/or 2030 (varies).
Admission: From 20 (performances).

La Boqueria
Rambla Sant Josep
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2000.
Admission: Free.

Parc Gell (Gell Park)
With Parc Gell, Gaud created a fantasy land that seamlessly combines the natural and the man-made, as well as offers good views over the city. The park, originally conceived as a garden city, covers a hill to the north of the city centre. The gardens are enlivened by fantastic pavilions, stairways, columned halls and an organic plaza decorated with stunning broken-mosaic work (trencads) by Gaud’s assistant, Josep Maria Jujol. At the base of the hill is a house designed by Francesc Berenguer, which is now home to a collection of Gaud’s furnishings and other memorabilia.

Carrer d’Olot
Tel: (93) 424 3809.
E-mail: info@gaudiclub.com
Website: www.gaudiclub.com
Transport: Metro Vallcarca/Lesseps.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Nov-Feb); daily 1000-2000 (May and Aug); daily 1000-1900 (Mar and Oct); daily 1000-2000 (Apr and Sep).
Admission: Free; Casa Museu Gaudi 4.

Casa Mil
Casa Mil, also known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry), is an undulating apartment block on the corner of Passeig de Grcia. The building, inspired by the ocean, is an incredible testament to Gaud’s ability to make stone malleable. Apartments (which are not open to the public) are arranged around elliptical patios with no square corners in sight. The roof terrace is watched over by sentry-like chimneys and offers an excellent view across the city to the spires of La Sagrada Familia. The loft space of Casa Mil houses a beautiful museum, Espai Gaud, dedicated to the architect.

Passeig de Grcia 92/Carrer Provenca 261-265
Tel: (93) 484 5979. Fax: (93) 484 8840.
E-mail: info@gaudiclub.com
Website: www.casamila.com
Transport: Metro FGC Diagonal/Provenca.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2000; guided tours in English Mon-Thur1800.
Admission: 7; concessions available.

Barri Gtic (Gothic Quarter)
The maze of streets known as the Barri Gtic or Gothic Quarter contains an exemplary collection of Gothic buildings dating from Catalonia’s Golden Age, in the 14th and 15th centuries, interspersed with Roman ruins, delightful squares and numerous bars and restaurants. Plaa Sant Jaume, at the heart of the district, is the epicentre of the city’s political life. The square is overlooked on one side by the Renaissance-style Palau de la Generalitat (location of the Catalan government) and on the other by the Ajuntament (city hall). Nearby, the Palau Real on Plaa del Rei houses the Museu d’Histria de la Ciutat. The remains of the Roman city of Barcino, beneath the palace, were uncovered in 1931; Roman streets are still visible in the vast cellar space that stretches as far as the cathedral. The museum admission fee gives access to the cellar and to a number of beautiful medieval buildings.

Museu d’Histria de la Ciutat
Plaa del Rei
Tel: (93) 319 0222. Fax: (93) 315 0957.
E-mail: museuhistoria@mail.bcn.es
Website: www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
Transport: Metro Jaume I.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1400 and 1600-2000; Sun 1000-1500.
Admission: 4; concessions available.

Catedral de la Seu
Catedral de la Seu was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, on the site of an earlier basilica, although the spire and faade were not added until the beginning of the 20th century. Highlights include the carved choir stalls, the Capella de Lepanto and the tranquil cloisters containing a pond of white geese.

Plaa de la Seu
Tel: (93) 315 1554. Fax: (93) 315 3555.
Transport: Metro Liceu or Jaume I.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1300 and 1600-1900.
Admission: Free.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya – MNAC (National Museum of Catalonian Art)
The Palau Nacional, on Montjuc, was the focus of Barcelona’s International Fair in 1929. It now houses the National Museum of Catalonian Art. The museum boasts a stunning collection of Gothic, Romanesque and medieval treasures and religious artefacts. Since the end of 2004, the museum also houses the collections of the Museu D'Art Modern, moved from the Palau de la Ciutadella in the Parc de la Ciutadella to its new, permanent location here. The most impressive approach to the Palace is up Avenida de La Reina Maria Cristina, from Plaa Espanya – the Avenida is lined with fountains that are floodlit at night.

Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuc
Tel: (93) 622 0360. Fax: (93) 622 0374.
E-mail: mnac@mnac.es
Website: www.mnac.es
Transport: Metro or FGC Espanya.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900; Sun 1000-1430.
Admission: 4.80; concessions available.

Fundaci Joan Mir (Joan Mir Foundation)
Also on Montjic, the Joan Mir Foundation is one of the most innovative galleries in the city. The foundation was a gift from the artist himself and houses a permanent collection of his paintings, graphics and sculptures.

Parc de Montjuc
Tel: (93) 443 9470. Fax: (93) 329 8609.
E-mail: fjmiro@bcn.fjmiro.es
Website: www.bcn.fjmiro.es
Transport: Metro Parallel, then funicular to Parc de Montjuc.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (Oct-Jun); Tues-Sat 1000-2000, Thurs 1000-2130 and Sun 1000-1430 (Jul-Sep).
Admission: 7.20; concessions available.

Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord)
A series of extraordinary houses by Montaner, Gaud and Puig i Cadafalch make up the Manana de la Discrdia (Block of Discord) on the Passeig de Grcia, between Arag and Consell de Cent. Gaud’s Casa Batll, at number 43, looks rather like an underwater grotto, with blue-green tiles on the faade, frog-faced balconies and a reptilian roof. Together they form part of the Ruta Modernista (see Tours of the City). Information and passes for this architectural tour can be obtained from the first floor of Casa Llo Morera, at number 35. Regrettably, the interiors of all three houses are closed to the public. However Ruta Modernista pass-holders are permitted onto the roof of Casa Batll.

Passeig de Grcia
Transport: Metro Passeig de Grcia.

Santa Maria del Mar
Santa Maria del Mar is counted among the most beautiful churches in the city and is considered a prime example of Mediterranean Gothic architecture. It is located just to the northeast of the Barri Gtic, at the heart of the fashionable La Ribera district. A 15th-century rose window adds colour to the simple harmony of the columned interior.

Plaa de Santa Maria
Tel: (93) 310 2390.
Transport: Metro Jaume I or Barceloneta.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1330 and 1630-2000.
Admission: Free.

Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona – MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Arts)
Looking rather incongruous in the down-at-heel surroundings of the Raval district, to the west of La Rambla, the brilliant-white Museum of Contemporary Arts is at the forefront of efforts to regenerate this traditionally seedy area of the city. The museum opened amid a blaze of publicity in 1995 and houses a permanent collection of post-1940s international art, as well as various temporary exhibitions.

Plaa dels ngels 1
Tel: (93) 412 0810. Fax: (93) 412 4602.
Website: www.macba.es
Transport: Metro FGC Plaa de Catalunya.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1100-1930, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (25 Sep-24 Jun); Mon-Fri 1100-2000, Sat 1000-2000 and Sun 1000-1500 (25 Jun-24 Sep).
Admission: 7; concessions available.

The Waterfront
A stroll along the harbourside passeig and wooden walkway is an excellent way for one to see some of the results of Barcelona’s epic regeneration programme. The focus of interest and activity in Barcelona is shifting back towards the sea, with the continued development of Port Vell (Old Port). The waterfront now boasts a myriad of eateries and bars, a vast shopping mall and leisure centre (Maremagnum) and an excellent aquarium. Barceloneta, the old fisherman’s quarter, which dates from 1755, still has some of the best fish restaurants in the city and is now also the gateway to Barcelona’s cleaned-up beaches. Further to the east, the Vila Olmpica at Poble Nou, created for the 1992 Olympic Games, is one of the liveliest and most interesting areas of the city during the warmer months, although it is often deserted during winter.

Passeig de Colom
Transport: Metro line 4 (yellow) to Barceloneta or Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica.

Further Distractions

Montjuc (Mountain of the Jews)
The hill of Montjuc has enough attractions to fill several days and was the main location of the 1992 Olympic Games. In addition to the Palau Nacional and the Fundaci Joan Mir, visitors might also want to explore the Estadi Olmpic and the accompanying museum, the Museu Arqueolgic, the replica Spanish village (Poble Espanyol) or the Pavell Barcelona, created by architect Mies van der Rohe, for the 1929 Exhibition. Other attractions include Castell de Montjuc (an 18th-century fortress) and an amusement park. Half the fun is the funicular ride up the mountainside and the outstanding views from the top.

Montjuc
Transport: Metro FGC Plaa Espanya, then bus 50; metro Parallel, then funicular; bus 55 from Plaa de Catalunya.

Reials Drassanes and Museu Martim (Royal Shipyard and Maritime Museum)
The Maritime Museum harks back to Barcelona’s seafaring past, with a staggering number of nautical exhibits, including a map by Amerigo Vespucci. The museum is housed in the magnificent Reiales Drassanes (Royal Shipyards), which date from the 13th century.

Avenida de les Drassanes.
Tel: (93) 342 9920. Fax: (93) 318 7876.
Website: www.diba.es/mmaritim
Transport: Metro Drassanes.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1900.
Admission: 5.40; concessions available.

Tours of the City

Official guides can be hired from the Barcelona Guide Bureau, Via Laietana 54 (tel: (93) 268 2422 or 310 7778; fax: (93) 268 2211; e-mail: bgb@bgb.es; website: www.bgb.es). Guides charge from 160, depending on the language required, for up to four hours Monday to Friday, increasing to 190 at weekends.

Walking Tours
La Ruta Modernista is a book containing a map and details of Modernista sights around the city, linking 50 key Art Nouveau buildings, including La Sagrada Famlia and sites not usually open to the general public. The self-guided tour departs from outside Palau Gell, Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5, and costs just 3. The time required to complete the walk depends on whether or not walkers chose to complete the whole walk or simply a section of it – the entire walk would take a day. The book also includes half-price entry to various sights en route, including the Palau de la Msica, La Pedrera and the Sagrada Famlia. The Ruta Modernista pass is available from the Centre del Modernisme, inside Casa Amatller, Passeig de Grcia 41, Monday to Saturday 1000-1900 and Sundays 1000-1400.

Bus Tours
Two companies run identical tours of the city. Juli Tours (tel: (93) 317 6454) departs from Ronda Universitat 5, while Pullmantur (tel: (93) 318 0241), sets off from Gran Vi de les Corts Catalanes 645. A morning tour concentrates on the Gothic Quarter and Montjuc, while an afternoon tour includes visits to key examples of Barcelona’s architectural heritage and the Picasso Museum. Half-day tours cost around 32.

The Barcelona Bus Turstic, operated by TMB (tel: (93) 285 3832; website: www.tmb.net), allows visitors to hop on and off designated tourist buses, at the sites of their choice. The buses ply two routes at 30-minute intervals or every 10 minutes in peak season. The first buses for each route leave Plaa de Catalunya, daily at 0900. Tickets cost 17 for one-day validity or 21 for two days.

Boat Tours
There are boat trips around the harbour, offered by Golondrinas (tel: (93) 442 3106; website: www.lasgolondrinas.com). These depart regularly from the Port Olmpic, Monday to Friday 1100-1400 and Saturday to Sunday 1145-1700 (November to March); Monday to Friday 1100-1800 and Saturday to Sunday 1145-1900 (April to June); daily 1145-1930 (July to September); and daily 1100-1800 (October). A round trip of the harbour takes approximately 35 minutes and costs 3.70. Energetic visitors can opt for a one-way ticket and then walk the 4km (2 miles) back to Barceloneta, from the breakwater.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Mount Tibidabo: On a clear day, Mount Tibidabo offers unsurpassed views of the city and the Mediterranean in one direction and Montserrat and the Pyrenees in the other. Located on the northwestern edge of Barcelona, the slopes of the mountain are crisscrossed with appealing wooded walks, while the summit is crowned with an old-style amusement park. Transport to the mountain is by FCC metro to Avenida Tibidabo, then Tramvia Blau tram to Peu de Funicular and funicular railway to the summit.

For a Whole Day

Montserrat: Located some 60km (37 miles) to the northwest of Barcelona, the spectacular peaks of Montserrat have been a major pilgrimage destination for centuries. Today, hordes of tourists flock to ride the cable car to this atmospheric monastery that lurks deep in the rugged mountainside. Numerous miracles have supposedly happened here, centred on the icon of La Moreneta (Black Virgin), allegedly hidden here by St Peter. In addition to the monastery and accompanying museum (tel: (93) 877 7777), which features paintings by masters such as El Greco, Caravaggio and Picasso, the mountain hides numerous hermitages and caves, which can be reached on foot via a network of mountain paths. The basilica is open daily 0730-2030 (June to September) and 0800-1830 (October to May), while the museum is open daily 1000-1800 (March to December) and 1000-1645 (January to February). FCC trains to Montserrat depart hourly from Espanya station in Barcelona, to the cable-car terminus at Aeri de Montserrat.

Teatre-Museu Dal, Figueres: Located in the town of Figueres, 145km (90 miles) northeast of Barcelona and reached by motorway or rail from Passeig de Grcia, this unusual museum (tel: (97) 267 7500; website: www.dali-estate.org) is a surrealist showcase of the artist’s eccentric imagination. Created by Dal himself, out of the former town theatre where he held his first exhibition, it also holds his surprisingly austere tomb. The museum is open daily 0900-1945 (July to September) and Tuesday to Saturday 1030-1745 (October to June). Entrance is 10.

Beaches: Sitges is a lively Balearic-style resort, situated 40km (25 miles) south of Barcelona, very popular with the Spanish, British and German gay community and accessible in 40 minutes by train south from Barcelona-Sants. Alternatively, Tossa de Mar, located 40km (25 miles) north of Barcelona, boasts several fine beaches and small bays, an attractive old town and a good museum. Buses from Barcelona are frequent during the summer but private transport might be required at other times. The Sitges Tourist Office, Carrer Snia Morera 1 (tel: (93) 894 4251; fax: (93) 894 4305; website: www.sitges.com), and the Tossa de Mar Tourist Office, Avenida del Pelegr 25, Edificio La Nau (tel: (97) 234 0108; fax: (97) 234 0712; website: www.infotossa.com), can provide further information.

Sport

The 1992 Olympics turned the sporting spotlight of the world onto Barcelona. Most of the action took place on Montjuc, which gained a new sports stadium, a marina and several swimming pools. Major annual sporting events in the city include the Barcelona marathon, which takes place in March, the Conde de God Trophy tennis tournament in April, and the Formula One Grand Prix, held in Montmel every May.

Football is ever popular. The local football team, Ftbol Club Barcelona (Bara), Avenida Arstides Maillol 12-18 (tel: (93) 496 3600; fax: (93) 411 2219; website: www.fcbarcelona.com), is one of the most successful teams in Europe. The club plays in the massive Camp Nou stadium, Avenguda de Joan XXII (tel: (93) 496 3709, for tickets), which also houses a football museum.

For visitors who want to break into a sweat themselves, the city authorities have a sports information service (tel: (93) 402 3000) with details of city-run sports centres and facilities. The office is located at Avenida de L’Estadi 30-40 and is open Monday to Friday 0800-1430 and Monday to Thursday 1600-1815.

Bullfighting: In April 2004, Barcelona’s city council took an historic vote and declared Barcelona an anti-bullfighting city. This means there will be no more bullfights at the Monumental bullring, Gran Via Corts Catalanes 749, although there is still a museum about the sport (Museu Tauri) at the ring, at Carrer Muntaner 24 (tel: (93) 245 5804).

Fitness Centres: There is a fitness centre, which is open to the public, at the Piscinas Bernat Picornell, Avenida de L’Estadi 30-40, on Montjuc (tel: (93) 423 4041), open Monday to Friday 0700-2330, Saturday 0700-2045 and Sunday 0730-1500.

Golf: There are several golf clubs in the Barcelona area, which are open to non-members. Real Club de Golf ‘El Prat’, Apartado de Correos 10, El Prat de Llobregat (tel/fax: (93) 728 1000; e-mail: rcgep@rcgep.com; website: www.realclubdegolfelprat.com), is a first-rate 36-hole course located near the airport. The course has hosted the Spanish Open on numerous occasions and is only open to members of a federated club only. Club de Golf Sant Cugat, in the suburb of Sant Cugat del Valles (tel: (93) 674 3908; fax: (93) 675 5152), some 20km (12 miles) northwest of Barcelona, is a 21-hole course. Visiting players must provide all their own equipment but are entitled to use all the club’s leisure facilities on payment of the green fee of 65 (150 at weekends).

Sailing: There are numerous sailing clubs based in Barcelona and several regattas take place during the spring and summer. Further information is available from the Centre Municipal de Vela, Moll de Gregal, Port Olmpic (tel: (93) 225 7940).

Swimming: There are seven beaches in the immediate vicinity of Barcelona. Water quality is tested regularly but it is still advisable for bathers to look before taking a leap into the waves. Platja de Sant Sebasti is a nudist beach. At the other beaches, topless bathing is common.

If the beaches do not appeal, the Club de Nataci Atltic Barceloneta, Plaa del Mar (tel: (93) 221 0010), has three indoor pools. Alternatively, visitors can relive the Olympic Games in the Piscinas Bernat Picornell, Avenida de L’Estadi 30-40, on Montjuc (tel: (93) 423 4041), open daily 0700-2400. There are also numerous city-run swimming pools; the sports information service (see above) can provide details.

Tennis: Built for the Olympics, the Centre Municipal de Tennis Vall d’Hebron, Passeig de la Vall d’Hebron 178 (tel: (93) 427 6500), has several clay courts, which are now open to the public. However, racquets and balls are not provided.

Shopping

Shopping is one of Barcelona’s greatest attractions, with a bountiful 5km (3-mile) shopping strip, all the way from the water’s edge at Port Vell right up La Rambla to Diagnol. International chains, designer shops and modern department stores can be found in the area around Plaa de Catalunya, Passeig de Gracia and along Avenida Diagonal. The most famous shop in the city is the imposing El Corte Ingls, on Plaa de Catalunya – part of a national chain, generally considered to be Spain’s leading department stores. La Rambla and the Barri Gtic are the places for tourists to hunt for souvenirs.

A visit to La Boqueria market, officially Mercat de Sant Josep, off Rambla Sant Josep, is an unmissable experience. The market is open Monday to Saturday 0800-2000, for the sale of fresh fish, meat, vegetables and dairy products. Other food markets for keen shoppers to try are Concepci, Carrer Arag, Ninot, Carrer Mallorca, and the Gastronomic Fair, which takes place in Plaa del Pi, on the first and third Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the month. For antiques and curios, the Els Encants market is held on Plaa de les Glories, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 0900-1900. Another antiques market is held on Plaa Nova every Thursday (except in August). Representative gifts include Catalan black pottery, handwoven baskets or Barcelona lace.

In recent years, a number of urban-chic orientated fashion stores have opened in the city centre. Ritual, Carrer Consell de Cent 255, leads the way in all the latest fashions for clubbers and urbanites, while Jean Pierre Bua, Avenida Diagonal 469, is the more conventionally trendy home of designer names such as Gaultier and Miyake.

Shops open at 0900 or 1000 and close again for an extended lunch, between 1330 and 1600 or 1700. In the evening, shops shut at 2000 or 2030. Large department stores do not generally close for lunch. All shops are open on Saturday afternoons but are closed all day on Sunday. IVA (value added tax) of 7% is charged on all goods and services in Spain. Upon departure, visitors from outside the EU, who have been in the EU for less than 180 days, can get a VAT (IVA) refund from the airport, on goods worth 90 or more. Tax return forms are available from shops on request. IVA on services is not refundable. For more information visit www.globalrefund.com

Culture

Barcelona’s reputation as a world centre for art, architecture and design is growing yearly, with a plethora of cultural activities on offer. As if it needed confirming, in 1999, the entire city was awarded a Royal Gold Medal for Architecture, from the Royal Institute of British Architects. The seminal ghosts of such artistic luminaries as Antonio Gaud, Pablo Picasso, Joan Mir and Antoni Tpies permeate Barcelona’s cultural scene. Barcelona is also a showcase for homegrown Catalan traditions – dozens of festivals, religious holidays and special occasions are celebrated in the city each year.

The Gua del Ocio booklet (website: www.guiadelocho.com), available from newsagents and news stands, provides information on cultural and other events in the city, as well as contact details for ticket agencies. The free seasonal guide, See Barcelona (website: www.seebarcelona.com), which is available in hostels, is also helpful. Alternatively, there is a cultural information desk at Palau de la Virreina, La Rambla 99 (tel: (93) 301 7775).

Caixa Catalunya run the central ticket agency Entrada (tel: (902) 101 212; website: www.telentrada.com).

Music: Homegrown stars include the cellist Pablo Casals and the international opera singers Josep Carreras and Montserrat Caball. The latter celebrated her native city in a highly theatrical duet (Barcelona) with the late Freddie Mercury of Queen. The main concert hall is the Palau de la Msica Catalana, Carrer Sant Francesc de Paula 2 (tel: (902) 442 882; fax: (93) 295 7208; website: www.palaumusica.org), a UNESCO World Heritage building and one of the most extravagant music venues in the world. Sunday concerts here are a Barcelona institution. It was designed by modernist architect Domnech i Montaner, as a showcase for the Catalan renaissance and was the main venue for the Orquesta Sinfnica de Barcelona y Nacional de Catalunya (website: www.obc.es), until they relocated to L’Auditori, Carrera Lepant 150 (tel: (93) 247 9300; fax: (93) 247 9301; e-mail: info@auditori.org; website: www.auditori.org), in 1999.

There are free musical events in the city hall’s Sal de Cent, Plaa Sant Jaume 1 (tel: (93) 402 7000), on Plaa del Rei, on Thursday at 2000, as well as in various beautiful buildings around the city. Barcelona’s opera house, the stunning Gran Teatre del Liceu, La Rambla 51-59 (tel: (93) 485 9900; fax: (93) 485 9918; website: www.liceubarcelona.com), was tragically destroyed by fire (for the third time) in 1994. Reconstruction was completed in summer 1999.

Theatre: Barcelona’s theatre scene does not enjoy the same international reputation as Madrid’s does, however, what it lacks in literary authority, it makes up for in the visual and audio spectacle of its performances. The theatre scene in the city is lively and well attended, including work by regional and international playwrights. Popular venues include Teatre Lliure, Plaa Margarida Xirgu 1, Montjuc (tel: (93) 289 2770 or (902) 112 for tickets; e-mail: info@teatrelliure.com; website: www.teatrelliure.com), Teatre Tvoli, Carrer Casp 10 (tel: (93) 412 2063), and Teatre Poliorama, La Rambla 115 (tel: (93) 317 7599; e-mail: info@teatrepoliorama.com; website: www.teatrepoliorama.com). A varied programme of drama, music and dance is on offer at Teatre Nacional de Catalunya, Plaa de les Arts 1 (tel: (93) 306 5700; fax: (93) 306 5701; e-mail: info@tnc.es; website: www.tnc.es), and El Mercat de les Flors, Carrer Lleida 59 (tel: (93) 426 1875). Music-hall-style shows are also very popular in Barcelona; the Barcelona City Hall, Rambla de Catalunya 2-4 (tel: (93) 317 2177), is the main venue.

Dance: The city’s main venue for ballet and contemporary dance is the L’Espai de Dansa I Msica de la Generalitat de Catalunya (referred to simply as L’Espai) Travessera de Grcia 63 (tel: (93) 414 3133; e-mail: espai@qrz.net). A more relaxed atmosphere is in evidence on Sunday mornings, in the square in front of Catedral de la Seu, Plaa de la Seu, when locals flock to watch and participate in the local dance – the sardana.

Film: Surprisingly few movies have been made in this photogenic city. Recent releases include Barcelona (1994), an urbane comedy of manners, directed by Whit Stillman; Todo sobre mi madre (‘All about my mother’, 1999), the story of a mother in search for her dead son’s father, directed by Pedro Almodvar; and En la Ciudad (‘In the City’, 2003), about a group of friends in their mid-30s leading secret lives in Barcelona, written and directed by Cesc Gay. Fragile, the latest horror movie to be directed by Jaume Balaguer, set in a hospital in Barcelona and starring Calista Flockhart of Ali McBeal fame, is due for release in 2006.

There are a growing number of cinemas that show foreign-language films in the original language, with Spanish subtitles. The 15-screen Icaria Yelmo Cineplex, Carrer Salvador Espriu 61, Port Olmpic (tel: (93) 221 7585), and the more convenient one at Maremagnum, Port Vell (tel: (902) 333 231; website: www.cinesa.es), are two of several multi-screen cinemas in the city. There are no notable arthouse cinemas in Barcelona.

Cultural Events: General information on cultural events can be obtained from the Palau de Congressos, Avenida Maria Cristina 1 (tel: (902) 233 200). The Grec-Barcelona festival (tel: (93) 301 7775; website: www.grec.bcn.es), which takes place every summer (June to August), is the focus of the city’s cultural life. Theatre, music and dance are performed at venues throughout the city, including the open-air auditoria at Teatre Grec, on Montjuc, and Convent de Sant August. October and November see the annual Festival Internacional de Jazz, run by The Project (tel: (93) 481 7040; fax: (93) 481 7041). Traditional festivities in honour of Sant Jordi (St George) take place on 23 April and again on the night of 23 June, for the Verbena de Sant Joan (St John), when bonfires and fireworks illuminate the city. There are two major celebrations in early autumn – Diada Nacional de Catalunya (Catalonia National Day), on 11 September, and the spectacular Fiesta de La Merc, in honour of the patron saint of Barcelona, on 24 September. Festivities for the latter include parades, traditional dancing, sporting events and religious celebrations. Human pyramids, known as castellers, are constructed in the streets.

Literary Notes: La Ciudad de los Prodigios or City of Marvels (1990) by Eduardo Mendoza fictionalises the life of the city, between its two international exhibitions in 1888 and 1929. Year of the Flood (1996), by the same author, is set in Barcelona in the 1950s. La Plaa del Diamant or The Time of the Doves (1962), by Merc Rodoreda, is the best known Catalan novel and traces the life of Colometa, through the turmoil of the civil war. Manuel Vazquez Montalban’s detective character, Pepe Carvalho, is a Barcelona native and the city is the setting for the crime novels in which he stars. Homage to Catalonia (1937) by George Orwell is the author’s first-hand observations of the Spanish revolution in the region. More recently, Colm Toibin’s The South (1990) is a startling first novel, which depicts the struggles of an Irish woman looking for a new life in Barcelona. Joan Maragall is the region’s most celebrated poet.

Nightlife

Barcelona is widely considered one of Europe’s great party cities and deservedly so. Things may start slowly with some food and a few drinks after siesta finishes (at approximately 1700) but they soon gather pace and by 2300 the city is buzzing. Friday and Saturday nights are when the city is at its liveliest, although the drinking and dancing keeps going throughout the week. Bars are usually open until 0200 or 0300, while clubs and discos keep going until 0500 or 0600. The legal drinking age in Barcelona is 16 years and the price of tipple ranges from 1 for a small beer or glass of wine to 5 for something stronger, such as a rum and coke, depending also on the type of establishment.

Port Olmpic is particularly buzzing on summer nights, as is Port Vell, where the Maremagnum shopping complex bizarrely metamorphoses into a nefarious collage of cafs, bars and nightclubs, open late into the night. In the last few years, bars modernos with music and designer decor have been popular with a young ultra-hip clientele across the city. The trend is to dress quite smartly when going out in Barcelona.

Available in hostels, the free seasonal guide See Barcelona (website: www.seebarcelona.com), and the Gua del Ocio booklet (website: www.guiadelocio.com), available from newsagents and newspaper stands, both provide information on nightlife in Barcelona.

Bars: Xampanyeras (champagne bars) serving sparkling Catalan wine (cava) are a speciality of the city. Good places for cava include La Bodegueta del Xamp, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 702, Xampanyeria Casablanca, Carrer Bonavista 6, and El Xampanyet, Carrer Montcada 22. The latter also serves cider and tapas, in vibrant surroundings. Bar Pasts, Carrer Santa Mnica 4, has the honour of counting Picasso among its former regulars. The artist’s other hangout was El Quatre Gats, Carrer Montsi 3, a modernista bar with good beer and live music from 2100. The original menu, designed by Picasso, is on show in the Museu Picasso (see Key Attractions). L’Ovella Negra, Carrer Sitges 5, is a favourite as much with the international backpacker set as it is with local students. Bar Marsella, Carrer de Sant Pau 65, is the place to imbibe an absenta, a close relative of absinthe. For the style-conscious, some of the city’s coolest haunts include the spectacular Torres de Avila, Avenida Marqus de Comillas, Poble Espanyol, on Montjuc, the perennially stylish Dry Martini, Carrer Aribau 162-166, Ideal Cocktail Bar, Carrer Aribau 89, and Mas i Mas, Carrer Maria Cubi 199. Mirablau, Plaa Doctor Andreu, at the foot of the Tibidabo funicular, is especially romantic, with its sweeping views of the city. Popular Berimbau, Passeig del Born 17, serves up good cocktails to a background of Brazilian rhythms, while Oven, Calle Ramon Turr 126, is a hip venue for cocktails, in a modishly-converted factory in the up-and-coming Poblenou district.

Casinos: Gran Casino de Barcelona, Carrer de la Marina 19-21 (website: www.casino-barcelona.com), is open daily 1300-0500. Visitors must be 18 years or over and carry a passport or driving licence. A smart dress code applies.

Clubs: Barcelona’s most beautiful people can be found in Up And Down, Carrer Numncia 179, the city’s most exclusive nightclub, while a younger, more down-to-earth crowd boogie to the latest sounds at Bikini, Carrer Deu i Mata 105 (website: www.bikinibcn.com). The split-level Moog Club, Arc del Teatre 3 (website: www.masimas.com), in the Chinese Quarter, offers the best of European techno and hosts big international DJs. Salsitas, Calle Nou de la Rambla 22 (website: www.gruposalsitas.com), with a well designed bar, restaurant and a dancefloor, is one of the city’s trendiest hotspots, while stylish Torres de vila, Avenida Marqus de Comillas, Poble Espanyol (website: www.welcome.to/torresdeavila) has long been celebrated for its all-night trance-techno discos on summer weekends. Popular open-air haunts include La Terrazza, Avenida Montanyans – open in the summer months only (website: www.nightsungroup.com). Punto BCN, Carrer Muntaner 63 (website: www.grupoarena.com) is a popular gay club.

For flamenco dancing, try Tablao Flamenco Cordobes, La Rambla 35 (website: www.tablaocordobes.com), Los Tarantos, Plaa Reial 17 (website: www.masimas.com), or Tablao del Carmen, Arcs 9, Poble Espanyol (website: www.tablaodecarmen.com). La Paloma, Carrer Tigre 27 (website: www.lapaloma-bcn.com), is a beautiful dancehall dating from the turn of the century. The band plays to an enthusiastic crowd, with a menu of pasa doble, tango, salsa, flamenco and more.

Live Music: Large-scale rock and pop concerts by international stars can be heard at the Palau Sant Jordi, Passeig Olmpic 5-7, the Estadi Olmpic, Montjuc, and Camp Nou, Avenguda de Joan XXII. The best mid-sized venue is Zeleste, Carrer Almogvers 122, in Poble Nou, which hosts Spanish and international pop and rock groups. Harlem Jazz Club, Carrer Comtesa de Sobradiel 8, hosts jazz and other live music, daily until 0400. Jamboree, Plaa Reial 17, is a long-standing and popular jazz, blues and funk venue. Traditional folk music from Catalonia, Spain and the rest of Europe is on offer at the Centre Artes Tradicionarius, Travessera de Sant Antoni 6-8, which hosts concerts on Thursday and Friday evenings.

City Statistics

Location: Catalunya (Catalonia), Northeast Spain.
Country dialling code: 34.
Population: 1,582,738 (city); 4,618,257 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: Majority Catalan Spanish, minorities include Roma and African.
Religion: 90% Roman Catholic, 10% Protestant, Muslim and Jewish.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 10C (50F).
Average July temp: 25C (78F).
Annual rainfall: 590mm (23.2 inches).

Special Events

Epiphany, parades in the streets, 6 Jan, throughout the city
Barcelona Marathon, Mar, throughout the city (website: www.barcelonamarathon.com)
Festes de Sant Medir, religious festival with parade and choral singing, 3 Mar, Grcia and various other venues (website: www.santmedir.org)
Trofeo Conde de God de Tennis, tennis championship, Apr, Reial Club de Tennis Barcelona
Formula One Grand Prix, May, Circuit de Catalunya, Montmel
Holy Week festivities, Mar, various venues
Diade de Sant Jordi (St George’s Day), St George book and rose festival, 23 Apr, La Rambla and various venues
Corpus Christi, processions and L’Ou com Balla (the dancing egg), 16 May, Catedral and various venues
Pasqua Granada, local religious holiday, Jun, throughout the city
Verbena de Sant Joan (St John’s Day), bonfires and fireworks, 24 Jun, throughout the city
Festes de Sant Jaume, religious festival, 24 Jun, throughout the city Fest de Grec-Barcelona, month-long festival celebrating both international and national performing arts (website: www.grec.bcn.es), mid Jun-mid July, various venues
Diade Nacional de Catalunya (Catalonia National Day), public holiday, 11 Sep, throughout the city
Fiesta de La Merc, parades, dancing and sporting events, 24 Sep, various venues
Festival Internacional de Jazz (International Jazz Festival), Oct-Nov, various venues
Fiesta de Santa Llcia, Christmas fairs, mid Dec, Plaa de la Seu, Plaa Sant Jaume and various other venues
Christmas, family celebrations, 24-25 Dec, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: 0.50
33cl bottle of beer: 0.80
Financial Times newspaper: 3.50
36-exposure colour film: 4.50
City-centre bus ticket: 1.10
Adult football ticket: 50
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From 20

1 Euro (1) = 0.67; US$1.29; C$1.61; A$1.65
Currency conversion rates as of May 2005